Great Planes GPMA0435 User Manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co , Inc guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material
and workmanship at the date of purchase This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged
by use or modification In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased
kit Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user­assembled product By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he is
advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST.

IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND
WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.

P 0 BOX 788 URBANA ILL NOIS 61801 [phone]

Entire Contents ©1992 Hobbico, Inc F146P03 V1 1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ........................3

Precautions...................................3

Other Items Required..................4

Supplies and Tools Needed..........4

Decisions You Must Make Now ..5

Common Abbreviations ...............5

Types of Wood .............................5

Die Patterns..................................6

Get Ready to Build.......................7

TAIL FEATHERS ........................7

Build the Fins and Rudders..........7

Build the Stabs and Elevators ......8

Temporarily Install Hinges ..........9

WING.............................................10

Spars.............................................10

Build the Wing Panels..................10

FINAL ASSEMBLY .......................42

Install Wing Tips ...........................43

Install Ailerons ..............................43

Install Aileron Servo......................44

Install Exhaust Nozzles .................45

Cut Main Gear Retract Openings ..46

FINISHING....................................47

Blend Wing to Fuse .......................47

Instrument Console & Seats ..........47

Prepare Canopy..............................47

Balance the Airplane Laterally ......48

Final Sanding.................................48

Covering ........................................48

Glue Fins and Stabs in Place .........49

Glue Aileron Hinges......................49

Glue Elev. and Rudder Hinges ......49

Assemble the Two Panels ............12

Install the Wing Sheeting.............14

Install the Aileron Torque Rods... 18

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY............19

Prepare the Sides..........................19

Prepare the Firewall .....................21

Assemble Fuselage.......................21

Landing Gear (Fixed)...................23

Landing Gear (Retracts)...............25

General Fuselage Assembly.........27

Install the Nose Gear Retract .......28

Install Radio .................................29

Retract Pushrods ..........................30

Pushrods.......................................31

Drill Engine Mount......................34

Install Fuel Tank...........................35

Install Cockpit................................50

Decals and Trim.............................50

Wing Seating .................................51

Re-install Engine and Radio..........51

Balance Your Model ......................51

Final Hookups and Checks............53

PRE-FLIGHT.................................53

Charge the Batteries.......................53

Find a Safe Place to Fly.................53

Ground Check the Model ..............53

Range Check Your Radio ..............53

Engine Safety Precautions.............53

AMA Safety Code.........................54

FLYING..........................................54

Takeoff...........................................54

Flying............................................54

Final Fuselage Construction.........35

Fit the Wing to the Fuselage ........37

Build the Wing Turtle Deck.........39

Engine Compartment ...................40

Important Caution..........................55

Landing..........................................55

Control Surface Throws.................55

2-VIEW............................................56

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!

THIS IS NOT A BEGINNERS AIRPLANE!

This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and

property damage IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE — to build this kit
correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc ) and to
test the model and fly it only with experienced, competent help, using common sense and in
accordance with all safety standards as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code
It is suggested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before you attempt to fly this
model IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY
SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN
EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252 [phone]

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the

Great Planes F-14 TOMCAT'

The Great Planes F-14 is a high performance
propeller-driven sport airplane that resembles the real
F-14 Tomcat In the air, the prop is invisible, adding to
the realism The smoothness and speed of this airplane
allow you to experience the thrills of flying a jet-like
airplane without the complexity and high cost of a dueled
fan model

This is not a beginner's airplane! While the F-14
TOMCAT is not difficult to build and flies great, we
must discourage you from selecting this kit as your first
R/C airplane It is very fast, highly maneuverable and
lacks the self-recovery characteristics of a good basic
trainer such as the Great Planes PT Series airplanes
On the other hand, if you are confident with your flying
skill and can safely handle aileron airplanes such as the
Great Planes Ultra-Sport Series or Big Stik Series
airplanes, the F-14 is an excellent choice. If you
currently fly an aileron airplane but you are unsure about
your ability to handle the F-14. we recommend that you
build and fly a low-wing sport plane before building and
flying your F-14

Please inspect all parts carefully before
starting to build! If any parts are missing,
broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at [phone] and
we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the plans

and instructions. Do not alter or modify the model as

doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model In
a few cases the plans and instructions may differ slightly
from the photos In those instances you should assume
the plans and written instructions are correct Also you
may notice a slight difference in length between longer
parts and the plans This is normal and is caused by the
plans expanding and shrinking with the changing
moisture content in the an Do not modify the paits to fit
the plan

2 You must take time to build straight, true and
strong IMPORTANT - Glue should never be
substituted tor a good joint Take a little extra time to get
a close fitting joint and glue it properly It will be
stronger, neater, and much lighter than a bad joint held
together with a glob of glue!

3

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition and meets the current AMA and FCC
requirements and the requirements of your local flying
club, the correct sized engine and correct components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc )

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on the
ground and in the air

5. You must test the operation of the model before the
first and each successive flight to insure that all equipment
is operating Also you must make certain that the model
has remained structurally sound

6. You must fly the model only with the competent
help of a well experienced R/C pilot if you are not already

an experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot.
Note We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a

top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the

quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it, therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model

Remember: Take your time and follow

directions to end up with a well-built model that

is straight and true.

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

D Four-channel radio with 4 or 5 servos (additional channel

and retract servo required if retracts are being used)

D Propellers (see engine instructions for recommended

sizes) Top Flite® "Power Props" recommended.

D 2-1/4" Spinner (Hobbico 2-1/4" Jet spinner #HCAQ3750

recommended)
D Fuel Tank (GPMQ4104)
D 5/32" Wheel Collars (GPMQ4306)
D Iron-on Covering Material (Top Flite Super MonoKote®

gray, black and cub yellow recommended)

D Fuelproof Paint for Tail Cones, and possibly for trim

Note Chevron "Perfect Paint" matches Top Flite Super

MonoKote, and is available in spray cans.
D 36" Throttle Pushrod (GPMQ3710)
D Silicone Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
D 1/16" thick Wing Seating Tape (GPMQ4422) or silicone

sealer see instructions
D Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ 1000)
D 2 Plastic Pilots Williams Bros Military 1-1/2" Scale #171
D Wheels (see page 5)

THE OPTIONAL RETRACTS ALSO REQUIRE:

D Hobbico Low-Profile Retracts (HCAP4000)

D #2 X 3/8" Socket Head Screws (GPMQ3120)
D Dubro #103 Strip Aileron Horn (DUBQ1780)
D Nose Gear Retract Pushrod (A Sullivan red outer

guide tube and a 34" threaded rod works well for this)

D Three 3/32" Wheel Collars (GPMQ4302)
D Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector (GPMQ3870)
D 2-56 Metal Clevises (GPMQ3790)

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED

D 2 oz Thin CA Adhesive (GPMR6003)
D 2 oz Medium or Thick CA Adhesive (GPMR6009)
D 2 5 oz Epoxy (GPMR6047)

D Silicone Adhesive
D 7/64 Ball Driver (GPMR8003)
D 440Tap(GPMR8101)
D Hand or Electric Drill
D Drill Bits 1/16", 5/64", 7/64", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16",

13/64", 1/4" and 5/16"

D Sealing Iron and Heat Gun (Hobbico or Top Flite

recommended)
D Hobby Saw (X-acto Razor Saw)
D X-acto Knife, #11 Blades
D Pliers
D Screw Drivers
D T-Pins (HCAR5200)
D Straightedge
D Masking Tape (Required for construction)
D Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
D T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
D Waxed Paper
D Lightweight Balsa Filler
D Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
D Isopropyi Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
D 3M "77" Spray Adhesive (optional)
D Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
D 5/64 and 2mm Ball Driver (for Hobbico Retracts)

*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar
sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100 and #150-grit
sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for
almost any sanding task. We also keep some #320­grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.

4

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW

ENGINE, MOUNT AND MUFFLER
SELECTION

The recommended engine for the F 14 is a 60* - 75

cubic inch displacement 2-cycle *NOTE: Performance
may be marginal if a non-Schneurle-ported 60 cu in
2-Cycle engine is used. The engine you select will
determine how you build the fuselage, so it is important
that you have the engine close at hand while building
Because of the size limitations and the nature of this
model, 4-cycle engines are more difficult to install and
balance and therefore are not recommended.

This kit includes a Great Planes MM60 engine mount

(or similar mount) that fits most 60 - 61 (2-Cycle)
engines (slight modification of this mount is required to
mount the OS 61 SF by filing the inside edges of the
engine mount beams) If the supplied mount can't be
modified to fit your engine, it may be necessary to
purchase a different mount (check with your hobby
dealer).

SELECTION OF WHEELS

To save weight, we recommend using lightweight

wheels REMEMBER: Large wheels are ugly and
unrealistic on a model of this type, so try to keep the
wheels as small as possible.

POSSIBLE RADIO INSTALLATIONS

The F-14 is designed to satisfy a wide variety of
modelers' desires The following radio installation
options will allow you to customize the plane to fit
whichever radio you want to use.

Our recommended radio installation requires 5
standard servos and a 180 degree retract servo (if retracts
are used) This will allow you to use one standard servo
for the rudders, two servos for the elevators (one for
each), one for the throttle and one for the ailerons This
set-up will give you very precise control and is easy to
install

You can also fly the plane with 4 standard servos by
using only one servo to drive both elevators In this case
the elevator servo is mounted up in a front servo tray and
two long pushrods are used This will work Ok, but there
is generally more "play" in the elevators (due to the
longer, curved pushrods) This method is not
recommended if you intend to use a high powered engine
or do a lot of high speed flying

Both rudders can be operated from one servo without
any problems because their linkage is much straighter If
you don't plan on doing much acrobatic flying, you can
even get by with only one operating rudder In this case
you would just run one pushrod straight back to the
rudder on the same side as the servo The other rudder
would be glued on to the fin and would not move

If you will be flying from a concrete or asphalt runway, we

recommend 2-1/4" main wheels and a 2" nose wheel

For grass fields, larger wheels will be required, such as 2-1/2"

main wheels and a 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" nose wheel.

If you will be installing retracts, you should try to limit the
wheel size to a maximum of 2-1/4" main wheels and a 2" nose
wheel or the wheel wells will be excessively large.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN

THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:

Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)

= Inches

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR (optional)

This airplane flies very well with a fixed landing gear,

and retracts are not necessary, however, they do add
realism and speed, and are a nice addition (it you are
prepared for the extra work involved in their installation)
Since the retracts are all located in the fuselage, one
retract servo (such as the Futaba FP-S136G) can be used
to actuate all three retracts

TYPES OF WOOD

Balsa Basswood Plywood

6

GET READY TO BUILD

D 1. Unroll the plan sheets and re-roll them inside
out. This will help them lie flat.

D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,
determine the name of each part by comparing it with the
plans and the parts list at the back of this book. Using a
felt tip pen, write the part name or size on each piece to
avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut part patterns
shown on page 6 to identify the die-cut parts, but do not

punch them out until you are ready to use them. Save
all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to

punch out, do not force them! Instead, first cut around
the parts with an X-acto knife. After punching out the
die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to lightly
sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate
them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin and

stab (stabilizer), and hardware.

D D 3. Cut the tip of the fin rear to match the leading

edge sweep of the fin front. Glue the little triangle piece
of scrap into the "V" at the bottom. Cut the 1/4" x 5/8"
x 9" balsa stick (F146R04) in half to make two 4-1/2"
long fin tips. Glue the tip in place at the end of the fin

rear.

"TAIL FEATHERS"

BUILD THE FINS AND RUDDERS

D 1. Tape the fuselage side view portion of the plan

down onto your flat work surface. Tape a piece of waxed
paper over the fin and rudder portion of the plan.

D D 4. Draw a line parallel with the trailing edge of
the fin and 1/4" in front of it. Draw another line parallel
with the bottom edge of the fin and 1" above it. Cut out
a clearance notch for the torque rods using the lines as a
guide as shown in the photo.

D D

2.

Glue

the

1/4"

balsa

fin from

the 1/4" balsa fin rear (F146R03) so their bottoms are
even with each other. Note that there will be a triangle of
wood missing between the two pieces. This can be filled
in the next step.

(146R01)

to

D D 5. Use a sanding block with medium (150) grit

sandpaper to sand the edges and both sides of the stab
smooth. Carefully draw a centerline all around the
edges of the stab and elevator. This will make it easier to
maintain symmetry when sanding later.

7

D D 6. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-

grit) sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper
(see cross-section on plans). The trailing edge should
end up approximately 3/32" wide. (Do not sand to a
sharp edge). Leave the top and bottom edges square.
Sand the leading edge of the rudder to a "V-shape" as

shown on the plan. NOTE: If you are going to have
only one operating rudder, do not sand the LE of the
fixed rudder to a "V" as described above. Leave it

square and Just glue it in place against the TE and tip of
the fin. HINT: It is a good idea to keep new, sharp
sandpaper on your sanding blocks. You will notice that it
"cuts" the wood and the glue much cleaner and produces
a much smoother finish.

D D 7. Sand the top and front edges of the fin to a
rounded shape (see cross-section on plans). Sand the
trailing edge of the fin tip (at the top of the rudder) to the
same taper as the rudder.

D 8. Go back to step 2 and build another fin and

rudder.

D D 2. Glue the 1/4" balsa stab front (F146S01) to
the 1/4" balsa stab rear (F146S03) so the root ends are

even with each other. Note that there is a triangle of
missing wood formed when the two pieces are properly

joined. There are no scrap pieces to fit in there. You can

cut one if you desire, although it is not necessary.

D D 3. Position the 1/4" balsa elevator (F146S04)

over the plan and mark where the stab tip will be cut oft.
Cut the tip off with a razor saw and glue it to the stab
rear. Do this over the plans so you will be sure to
position it correctly.

BUILD THE STABILIZERS AND
ELEVATORS

D 1. Tape the fuselage top view portion of the plan
down onto your flat work surface and cover the stabilizer
portion of the fuselage top view with wax paper.

D D 4. Use a sanding block with medium (150) grit
sandpaper to sand the edges and both sides of the stab
smooth. Carefully draw a centerline all around the
edges of the stab and elevator. This will make it easier to
maintain symmetry when sanding later.

8

D D 5. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-

grit) sandpaper, sand both sides of the elevator to a taper
(see cross-section on plans). The trailing edge should
end up approximately 3/32" wide. (Do not sand to a
sharp edge). Leave the ends square. Sand the leading
edge of the elevator to a "V-shape" as shown on the
plan.

D D 6. Sand the tip and front edges of the stab to a
rounded shape (see cross-section on plans). Sand the
trailing edge of the stab tip to the same taper as the
elevator.

D D 7. Draw a line parallel with the trailing edge of
the stab and 1/4" in front of it. Draw another line
parallel with the root edge of the stab and 1" out from it.
Cut out a clearance notch for the torque rods just as you
did on the fins earlier.

D 8. Go back to step 2 and build another stab and

elevator.

B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line, going

slightly deeper each time. As you make these
additional cuts. work on going straight into the wood.
Continue this process while "wiggling" the knife
handle forward and backward until the blade has
reached the proper depth for the hinge.

C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is

difficult to push in. re-insert the knife and move it
back and forth in the slot a few times to enlarge the
slot. Do not glue the hinges yet.

TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES

AND TORQUE RODS

D 1. Using the plans as a guide, mark the hinge
locations on the stabs, elevators, fins and rudders. Also

designate one of each surface as being "right" and the
others as "left."

CAUTION!!! You must use extreme care when
cutting hinge slots with an X-acto knife, to
avoid cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks
while you are pushing on the knife, the blade
could go into your hand before you know it! A
good precaution is to wear leather gloves while
performing the following steps.

D 2. Cut the hinge slots on the centerlines you drew
earlier. Our recommended hinge slotting method is
described below.

D 3. Check the plans and mark the location of the
torque rods on the rudders and elevators. Drill 7/64"
holes in the rudders and elevators (the holes are drilled
slightly oversize to allow for positioning, and to create a

hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire). Groove the rudder
and elevator LE to accept the torque rod wires and nylon
bearings (See below).

A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the

hinge location. The first cut is to establish your cut in
the right place, so concentrate on staying on the line
and don't cut too deep.

HINT: Using an X-acto knife, sharpen the inside of one

end of a 1/8" diameter brass tube. and use it to cut the
groove in the leading edge of the rudders and elevators.

9

D 4. Determine the torque rod bearing locations
from the plan. Then use a hinge slotting tool to cut the
slots in the stabs and fins tor the nylon torque rod
bearings. Cut a groove in the trailing edge of the stabs
and fins to accept the torque rods and nylon bearings.

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

STRAIGHT WING

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

WARPED WING

imperfections. If possible, position each spar so the
imperfections (if any) are on the outer half of the wing
panel (toward the tip), where they will be least affected
by high stress. If the spars are warped slightly, try to
"balance them out" by installing the warped spars in
opposite directions (see sketch). NOTICE: If you feel
that any of the wing parts are unusable due to severe
warps or other defects, give us a call and we'll replace
the parts.

D 5. Trial fit all these parts together using the torque
rods and hinges and trim the fin tips flush with the
trailing edges of the rudders. Check the operation of the

control surfaces but do not glue anything yet.

"WING"

NOTE: The following instructions explain how to build

the wing on a flat surface, directly on the plans. The jig
tabs will automatically build in 1-3/4 degrees of washout
and enable you to build a wing as straight as your work
surface. Because this wing has a lot of taper and sweep,
it is not advisable to build it on a Great Planes Wing Jig.

SPARS

D 1. Before using the hard balsa spars, examine

them carefully for possible imperfections. Look for
knots, soft spots, diagonal gram and any other

D 2. Sand 2" of one end of each 1/8" x 3/8" x 18"
balsa spar doubler (F146W05) to a taper as shown in
the "Wing Spar Detail" on the plan.

D 3. Glue the spar doublers to the 1/8" x 3/8" x 30"

balsa spars (F146F04) with thick CA as shown in the
"Wing Spar Detail." Take your time and press the spar
assembly flat against the work surface while the glue is
curing. Also rotate the assembly onto its side and press

it down to keep the doubler and spar aligned and straight.

Do this on a flat work surface and most warps can be
eliminated. Wipe off any excess glue before it cures.

BUILD THE WING PANELS

NOTE: If you build in the conventional manner, by

pinning the components to your workbench, it will be
helpful to build the wing on a piece of "Celotex"* or

10

other semi-soft (and flat) surface, into which you may
easily stick pins to firmly hold down the wing parts

while building, to avoid warps. *Available from lumber

companies and home centers.

NOTE: You should also be aware of the following:
This wing is constructed with 1-3/4 degrees of washout

(TE higher than LE at the wing tip) built-in. When the

wing is upright, the tabs on the rear portion of the ribs set
the ribs at the proper angles to achieve this slight twist.
When you flip the wing over to work on the bottom side,
the jig tabs on the top of the wing will hold the correct

washout in the wing.

D D 1. Cut the Wing Plan apart on the heavy dashed
line. Tape the right (or left) wing panel plan to your flat
work surface, and cover the wing drawing with waxed
paper (so you won't glue the wing to the plan!).

D D 2. Carefully punch out all the die-cut 3/32" and

1/8" balsa wing ribs. Sand the edges slightly to remove

any die-cutting irregularities or "fuzz."

with the rear-most jig tab against the work surface.

Use a 90-degree triangle to keep the ribs vertical.

D D 5. The shaped and notched wing trailing edges
(F146W07) are fastened together by a thin strip of balsa.

Separate them by cutting with an X-acto knife. Position
the TE in place by working the rear ends of the ribs into
the notches in the TE. Center the TE vertically on each
rib and glue it in place with thin CA.

D D 3. Cross-pin one of the spars to the plan with the
long spar down. and with the thick end (2 laminations)
toward the root. The tapered end of the spar doubler
should end just inside (1/4") of rib W8.

D D 4. Glue ribs W2 through W11 onto the spar in

their correct position. Notice that the ribs are installed

D D 6. Glue the top spar in place (with the long spar
on top). Make sure it is fully seated in the notches so it
does not stick above the top surface of the ribs.
Remember, the spar doubler stops just inside rib W8.

D D 7. Position a shaped balsa Leading Edge

(F146W06) over the Leading Edge Template on the wing
plan and mark where the notch goes. Use a razor saw to

11

cut the notch. Make sure you cut the notch perpendicular
to the LE and notice that it does not need to go all the
way through the LE.

D D 8. Glue the LE to rib W5 so the notch is
positioned as shown on the plan and the LE is centered
(up and down) on the rib. Center the LE on ribs W6
through W11 and glue it in place with thin CA. Next,
glue the LE to rib W3 and lastly to rib W4. The LE may
break in two during this step, but this is OK, just glue it
back together as you perform the step. IMPORTANT -
Use the plans as a guide to keep the front of rib W3
positioned correctly.

W3 and the slanted piece of LE already installed. Trim
the LE flush with W2 and the slanted piece of LE.

NOTE: In the following steps you'll find it necessary to
remove some of the pins holding the wing down to your
building board. As you do, take other steps as necessary
to continue holding the wing down, such as by applying
weight to the top of the wing, or by relocating the pins.

D D 11. Glue the pre-cut 1/16" balsa vertical grain

shear webs to the rear edge of the spars in all rib bays
except inside of rib W2 and between ribs W5 and W6.

Also glue shear webs on the front edge of the spars in
the first 5 rib bays starting with the W2-W3 bay.
NOTE: You may wish to trial fit, mark, and trim each
web before gluing it in. The webs must be securely

glued to the spars.

D D 9. Cut the excess LE off flush with the front of
rib W3. Sand it if necessary to get the face of the LE cut
aligned with rib W2.

D D 10. Glue the remaining piece of LE to ribs W2,

D D 12. Trim the tip end of the LE, TE and spars off
flush with rib W11.

D D 13. Trim off the root end of the spars and TE
slightly longer than their correct length (approx. 1/64"
longer). Later, when the two wing halves are joined,
they will be sanded to the correct length. Remove the
wing panel from the work surface.

D 14. Go back to step 1 and assemble the other wing
half. Be sure to build a right wing and a left wing!

ASSEMBLE THE TWO PANELS

D 1. Cut out the two dashed semi-circles on the left
wing plan. Place the left wing plan over the right wing

plan and carefully line-up the centerlines of each plan.
Tape the two plans together. Test fit the two panels
together over the plans and sand the spars and TE as
necessary until you achieve the proper spacing and wing
sweep. Insert the die-cut 1/8" ply front wing plate
(F146F15) and the 1/4" x 1" x 4-13/32" ply front wing

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bolt plate (F146W18) to check the spacing. Make sure

both panels are on a flat surface and lined up correctly
with the jig tabs against the work surface. Refer to the

plans and the following photo. NOTE: The notches for
the middle spar should form a straight line when the
proper amount of sweep is achieved.

D 4. Securely glue the 1/8" x 23/32" x 4-5/32" ply

dihedral brace (F146W12) in place between the spars
and against the W1B ribs with epoxy.

D 2. When satisfied with the fit of the two panels,
insert the front wing bolt plate along with the wing front

plate into the slots in the W-2 ribs and glue the spars and
TE'S together with epoxy. Also glue the plates in place.

D 3. Install the die-cut 1/8" balsa W1B ribs
(F146W01) by inserting them into the trailing edge slots
and rotating them until the front notches contact the
spars. Make sure the aileron servo rail slots in the ribs
are positioned down (near the work surface) and glue
them in place.

D 5. Slide the die-cut 1/8" ply W1A ribs (F146F32)
into place by positioning them at an angle as shown on

the left side of the photo and rotating them until they fit

into place as shown on the right side of the photo. Be
careful not to push the wing front plate out away from
the wing bolt plate during this step. Sand the inside slot
of the W1A ribs if they are hard to slide over the wing
bolt plate. Glue all these pieces together with thin CA
followed by either epoxy or thick CA.

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D 6. Soak the entire outer side of each W2 rib with

thin CA to help harden the wood. Cut four 1" long
pieces of 1/2" triangle from the 1/2" x 36" triangle
(WSTR001H) and glue them in place above and below
the front wing bolt plate and against the W2 ribs. Add
epoxy or thick CA around every joint in this area to
make sure everything is securely glued in place.

of the middle spar in all rib bays. The shear webs will be
too tall and too wide, so just trim them to fit and securely
glue them in place.

D 7. Trim the 1/8" x 3/8" x 24" balsa top middle

spar (F146W17) to fit in place by positioning it in the
notches and using a razor saw to accurately cut the taper
on both ends. NOTE: It is important to get the best

joint possible between the middle spars and the main

spars. Securely glue the middle spar in place with epoxy.

D 8. Flip the wing over and install the 1/8" x 3/8" x

24" balsa bottom middle spar just as you did the top
one in the last step. Make a nice epoxy fillet where both
middle spars contact the main spars.

D 10. Cut pieces of shear webs to lit in the three center

bays of the main spar and securely glue them in place.

D 11. Cut two 1-1/2" long aileron servo rails from

the 1/8" x 3/8" x 15" basswood strip (F146F30). Slide
these into the slots in the W1 ribs and use your aileron
servo to properly space them. They should be installed
as far forward as possible and far enough apart to allow
you to get the servo in and out. Securely glue them in
place.

INSTALL THE WING SHEETING

NOTE: In the next steps, maintain straightness by
keeping the jig tabs and spar down on the flat
surface.

D 9. Turn the wing back over so the top is up and

install 1/16" balsa shear webs on the front and the back

D 1. Lightly sand the tops of the ribs to blend with
the notched trailing edge, then glue the two top 1/16" x

1" x 30" balsa trailing edge sheets (F146W14) in place.

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NOTE: The edge of the TE sheet may not be exactly

straight, but just position the sheet so it slightly overlaps
past the TE, and any overlap can be sanded off flush with
the TE later.

D 2. Make four leading edge sheets by cutting a
triangle 2" wide on the end and 18" long off of one end

of each 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa wing sheet (F146W13).
HINT: Use an X-acto knife and cut a straight line using a

metal straightedge. Flip the triangle over and glue it to
the rest of the sheet as shown in the sketches above.
Notice the grain direction on the small triangle.

aft edge of the sheeting is approximately in the middle of
the spar, then cut off the excess sheeting on the ends,
leaving approx. 1/4" extra to allow for positioning.

NOTE: It will be helpful to have the following items
handy for the next steps: Thin CA, thick (slow cure) CA
and a straight piece of wood (such as an aileron).

D 6. Hold the sheeting tightly against the LE at a

slight angle so it sits down on the LE of the ribs. Use
thin CA to glue the sheeting to the LE only. Do not glue
it to the ribs yet.

D 3. Sand the both sides of each LE sheet smooth

with a sanding block and fine grit sandpaper.

D 4. Before applying the leading edge sheeting in the
next steps, use your T-bar to lightly sand off the edges of
the shear webs and smoothly blend the ribs to the spar.
Also, clean up the LE/rib joints to remove any glue

globs.

D 5. Sand the front edge (the edge with the triangle
glued to it) to a slight bevel so it will fit snugly against
the back of the leading edge. Trial fit it before
proceeding. Position the sheeting left or right until the

D 7. Tilt the wing up, with the LE down, and apply a
drop or two of thick or slow curing CA to each rib. Hold
the wing at an angle so the glue will flow down and coat
the edge of each rib. Apply a line of glue to the

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front edge of the spar. Immediately place the wing on
your flat work surface and press the sheeting into place.

Use a piece of wood (an aileron works OK) to hold the
sheeting in place while the glue cures. It is important to
keep the wing flat during this process as the LE sheeting
will "lock" the wing together.

D 10. First glue the sheeting against the LE sheeting
already in place. Try to line up the edges as closely as
possible. Drip some thick CA down the ribs and press
the sheeting into place. Add CA along the LE and use a
small but flat piece of wood to keep the sheeting straight
along the LE (turtle deck former T1 works well for this).

Trim the end of the sheeting flush with rib W2.

D 8. Trim the tip end of the sheeting flush with rib
W11. Trim the root end of the sheeting flush with the
centerline of the wing, rib W2 and the wing front plate.

D 9. Cut the four pieces of 1/16" x 3" x 15" balsa
stock

sheeting
above. Test fit one of the pieces in place in front of the
leading edge sheeting and trim and sand it as necessary
to make it fit. NOTE: The grain should run along the
LE.

(F146W23)

as

shown

in

the sketch

D 11. Sheet the opposite wing panel using the same

procedure outlined above.

D 12. Cut two 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa center sheets
(F146W15) and assemble two triangles as shown above.
Use one in the next step and save the other for the bottom
of the wing.

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D 13. Test fit the triangle sheeting into place and sand
it if necessary to achieve a good fit. It should go half
way back on the middle spar. Glue it in place by
applying thick or slow curing CA to the ribs and spars
and holding the sheeting in place while the glue cures.

D 14. Flip the wing over and carefully trim off the jig
tabs on the bottom of the wing (the side opposite the side
you just sheeted). Use a sanding block with a fine grit
sandpaper to touch up where the tabs were and to blend
the ribs into the TE. Be careful not to change the

shape of the ribs during this step.

D 16. Install the remaining 1/16" leading edge
sheeting, the strake sheeting and the center triangle sheet
using the same procedure outlined in steps 2-13.

D 17. Trim one of the 1/16" x 3" x 18" balsa rear
wing sheeting (F146W21) pieces to fit in place behind
the triangle center sheet. An easy way to do this is to
tape it in place behind the triangle center sheet and lay a
straight edge along the front edge of the 1" TE sheeting.
Mark where both sides of the TE sheeting continue under
the rear sheeting. Remove the rear sheeting and cut out

the triangle formed by the lines you marked. Cut another
of the rear sheeting pieces in half lengthwise and glue
one half to the rear edge of the piece you just trimmed to
fit.

D 15. Add the remaining two 1/16" x 1" x 30" balsa

TE sheets just as you did earlier on the top surface. Do
one panel at a time and keep the panel flat on the work
surface until the glue cures. Note: Due to the taper of
the wing, the jig tabs on the top surface of the wing will
only keep one panel flat at a time.

Tape the sheeting back into place and mark where the TE
sheeting intersects the outside edges. Cut the aft piece of
sheeting to fit and glue the rear sheeting in place with
thick or slow CA.

D 18. Cut a semicircle out of the sheeting between ribs

W4 and W5 as shown in the next photo.

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