Great Planes GPMA0425 User Manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material
and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged
by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user­assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he is
advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND
WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.

PO BOX 788 URBANA ILLINOIS 61801 2173984970

Entire Contents © 1992, Hobbico Inc.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION...............................3

Precautions ......................................3

Abbreviations....................................4

English/Metric Conversions.............4

Types of Wood..................................4

Decisions You Must Make ................5

Other Items Required .......................6

Supplies and Tools Needed..............6

Die Patterns......................................7

Get Ready to Build ...........................8

TAILFEATHERS..............................8

Rudder..............................................8

Fin ....................................................9

Elevators ........................................10

Stabilizer..........................................11

Temporarily Install Hinges...............11

WING ASSEMBLY.........................12

Spars..............................................12

Ribs..................................................13

Rib Doublers...................................13

LE Sheeting....................................14

LE and TE

Build the Wing Panels ....................14

Finish Installing Retracts ................20

Join Wing Panels............................21

Sand "Flats" on LE and TE.............22

Fiberglass Center Section ..............22

Install Wing Dowels........................23

Install Wing Bolt Plate ....................24

Fill Landing Gear Slots ...................24

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ...............25

Prepare Fuse Sides........................25

Prepare the Firewall .......................27

Prepare Stab Base.........................28

Prepare Formers ............................29

Assemble Lower Fuselage.............29

Install Servos, Guide Tubes ...........32

Mount the Wing to the Fuse ...........33

Fit Fuel Tank, Fuelproofing.............35

Install Chin Block............................35

Assemble Belly Fairing...................37

......................................14

Install Turtle Deck...........................38

Assemble Nose Section .................40

FINAL ASSEMBLY ........................42

Sand Fuselage ...............................42

Install Wing Fillets ..........................43

Shape Fin Fairings .........................44

Mount Stabilizer and Fin.................45

Install Servos, Horns & Pushrods...46

Control Surface Throws..................47

FINISHING.......................................48

Additional Fuelproofing...................48

Seal Off Cockpit..............................48

Prepare Canopy .............................48

Balance Airplane Laterally..............48

Final Sanding .................................48

Covering..........................................49

Glue the Hinges..............................49

Install Pilot......................................49

Glue Canopy in Place.....................50

Install Landing Gear.......................50

Wing Seating ..................................50

Re-install Engine & Radio ..............50

Balance Your Model .......................50

Final Hookups and Checks ............51

PRE-FLIGHT..................................51

Charge Batteries ............................51

Find a Safe Place to Fly

Ground Check ................................51

Range Check..................................52

Engine Safety Precautions.............52

FLYING...........................................52

Takeoff............................................52

Flying................................................52

Landing.............................................53

APPENDIX.....................................53

FLIGHT TRIMMING........................53

AMA SAFETY CODE .....................56

IMAA SAFETY GUIDELINES.........56

NOTES.............................................57

2-VIEW DRAWING..........................59

.................51

2

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!

THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE!

This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and property
damage IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to build this kit correctly, properly install all

R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc) and to test the model and fly it only with

experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accordance with all safety standards as set down

in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code It is suggested that you join the AMA to become properly

insured before you attempt to fly this model IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING CONSULT
YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN
EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tel [phone] Fax [phone]

IF THINGS AREN'T RIGHT WITH YOUR KIT

Please inspect all parts carefully
before starting to build! If any parts are
missing, broken or defective, or if you have
any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at [phone] and
we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations' Thank you for purchasing
the Great Planes Ultra-Sport 1000! Jim
Feldmann's original design Ultra-Sport 60 was
featured as a construction article in the August,

1989 issue of RC Modeler magazine, and has been
hailed by many as "the best sport flying airplane
ever'" The design starts with the legendary "Kaos"
wing platform, and features modern styling and
state-of-the-art construction techniques The result
is an ultra-stable, ultra-smooth flying airplane that
does what you want it to, no more and no less.
Now in its largest size, the Ultra-Sport 1000 is better
than ever

The Ultra-Sport 1000 is easy to build, totally
predictable, smooth-flying and has very docile stall
characteristics, making it the ultimate sport airplane
for the modeler who wants to fly with a higher
degree of precision Because it naturally tracks

through maneuvers better than other sport
airplanes, you'll fly better when you're flying an
Ultra-Sport 1000

This is not a beginner's airplane! While
the Ultra-Sport 1000 is easy to build and flies great,
we must discourage you from selecting this kit as
your first R/C airplane It is fast, highly
maneuverable, and lacks the self-recovery
characteristics of a good basic trainer such as the
Great Planes PT Series airplanes On the other
hand, if you have already learned the basics of R/C
flying and you are able to safely handle an "aileron
trainer" airplane such as the Great Planes Trainer
Series or Big Stick Series airplanes, the Ultra­Sport 1000 is an excellent choice

Because the Ultra-Sport 1000 has a
wingspan over 80", it is considered "Giant Scale"
and can qualify to fly in IMAA sanctioned events.
However, if you plan to do so, you must be aware of
the IMAA Safety Guidelines, and take the
necessary precautions while building this airplane
to insure compliance with those guidelines We
have reprinted several important sections of the
guidelines in the Appendix at the end of this book.
Read them now. In addition, it would be a good
idea to talk in advance with the designated safety
officers for the IMAA events you plan to attend, to
determine if any modifications need to be made to
qualify your Ultra-Sport 1000.

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify the

model as represented by the plans, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model In a

few cases the plans and instructions may differ

3

slightly from the photos In those instances you
should assume the plans and written instructions
are correct Also you may notice a slight difference
in length between some of the longer parts and the
plans This is normal and is caused by the plans
expanding and shrinking with the changing moisture
content in the air Do not modify the parts to fit the
plan.

2 You must take time to build straight, true and
strong IMPORTANT - glue should never be
substituted for a good joint Take a little extra time
to get a close fitting joint and glue it properly It will
be stronger neater and much lighter than a bad

joint held together with excess glue

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correctly- sized engine and
correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc )
throughout your building process

4 You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground and in the air

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS
BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:

Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
"= Inches

ENGLISH/METRIC CONVERSIONS

NOTE All dimensions in this book are given in
inches and fractions of an inch Use the table
below to convert these dimensions to the metric
system, if that is what you are most familiar with

5 You must test the operation of the model before

the first and each successive flight to insure that all

equipment is operating, and you must make certain
that the model has remained structurally sound Be
sure to check the nylon clevises and horns often,
and replace if they show signs of wear.

6 You must fly the model only with the
competent help of a highly experienced R/C pilot if
you are not already an experienced and

knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time
Note- We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but

ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished

model depends on how you build it, therefore we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model

INCHES MILLIMETERS
1" = 25.4mm
7/8"

=

22.2mm
3/4" = 19.0mm
5/8" = 15.9mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

3/8"

=

9.5mm

1/4"

=

6.
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/8"

=

3.
3/32" = 2.
5/64" = 2.
1/16" = 1.
1/32" = .08mm

TYPES OF WOOD

3mm
2mm

4mm
Omm

6mm

Remember: Take your time
and follow directions to end up
with a well-built model that is
light, straight and true.

Balsa Basswood Plywood

4

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW

ENGINE, MOUNT, AND SPINNER SELECTION

The recommended engine size range is as follows:

90 - 1 50 cubic inch displacement 2-cycle

1.20 -1.60 cubic inch displacement 4-cycle

The complete "ENGINE APPLICATION TABLE" is printed on the fuselage plan A portion of that table is
reprinted here to help in your selection of engine, propeller, mount and spinner.

COMPONENTS RECOMMENDED FOR THE ULTRA SPORT 1000:

ENGINE PROP
OS 120 SURPASS SP* 16x8
SUPERTIGRE 2500 16x10
OS 120 SURPASS II 15x8
OS108FSR 15x8
OS 160 TWIN 15x10
* Supercharged version
** "SV" denotes the rubber-cushioned version of this mount, which is recommended.

The above components you select will determine how you build the fuselage, so it is important that

you have these components close at hand while building

MUFFLER SELECTION FOR SUPERTIGRE 2500

ENGINE MOUNT

J-TECJT-120SP(SV)**
J-TECJT-ST125(SV)**
J-TECJT-122(SV)**
J-TECJT-M108(SV)**
Mount incl w/ engine

SPINNER
2-3/4"
3"
2-3/4"
2-3/4"
3"

If you are using the Supertigre 2500 engine, you have two muffler choices One is the standard
SuperTigre "S 3000" silencer that is made for this engine, and which is outlined on the plans If you prefer a
more conventional style muffler, you may choose the J-TEC "JT-3000S" muffler which was custom made as
a result of this project (it is pictured in an Ultra-Sport 1000 on the cover of the April, 1992 issue of R/C
Modeler magazine) Both mufflers work well, but they are very different styles (See the photos on page 43)

LANDING GEAR CONFIGURATION

The Ultra-Sport 1000 may be built with a

"taildragger" or "tricycle" landing gear

configuration, and a retractable main gear may be

installed if you want to really "clean up' this airplane

for ultra-smooth and precise aerobatics.

The Ultra-Sport 1000 was not designed to
accommodate a nose gear retract, therefore if you
want retracts, you'll have to use the "taildragger"
configuration

You have a few choices regarding retracts,
and you should read the following before selecting
the retracts to be used in your plane.

1. The retracts shown in this book are B&D 90­degree 2-gear mains These units are
mechanical and are supplied with 5/32" wire
struts which are not considered strong enough
for this airplane, therefore, this kit includes
3/16" wire struts which you may install in the
B&D retract units by drilling them out Although
this system has worked reliably for us. we have

experienced breakage in a couple of instances

involving moderately hard landings

2. The Robart company has indicated that the
following pneumatic retract system will work for
airplanes up to 12 lbs using stock wire struts,
but that the Robostruts should be used for
planes over 12 lbs Listed here are the Robart
items needed for the complete system #606
Retracts, #650 Robostruts, #188 Air control kit,
#190 Quick disconnects, #189 Airline
restricters, #164G Pump w/ gauge, #170 Air
line retainers

3. At the date of this writing, Robart has also
indicated that they will have new heavy-duty
mechanical retracts with 3/16" wire struts

available for this airplane These retracts,
although not tested in the US1000, may be

ideal for this airplane you may want to check

with your hobby dealer regarding the availability
of these retracts.

5

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED

Four-channel radio with 6 servos (additional channel
and retract servo required if retracts are being used).
An 800 to 1200 mAh receiver battery is
recommended (IMAA requires 1000 mAh)

• 2 - Servo wire "Y"-harnesses.

• 2 - Servo wire extensions.

•18-Hinges*

• Propellers (Top Flite" Power Point" recommended ­see engine instructions and above table).

• Spinner - 2-3/4" or 3" diameter (see above table)

• Fuel Tank (12 to 16 ounce)

• Main Wheels - 2 (3" dia. for fixed gear, 2-3/4" for

retracts)

• Nose Wheel -1 (3" diameter, required for trike only)

• Tail Wheel -1 (1" diameter, required for taildragger
only)

• 3/16" Wheel Collars - 4 or 6

• 3/32" Wheel Collars - 2 (required for taildragger
only)

• 3 oz. Thin Bullet CA Adhesive

• 3 oz. Medium or Thick Bullet CA Adhesive

• 2.5 oz. 30-Minute Bullet Epoxy

• Hand or Electric Drill

• Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64",

5/32", 3/16" (Long), 13/64", 1/4", and 5/16"

• Hobby Saw (X-acto Razor Saw)

• X-acto Knife, #11 Blades

• Pliers

• Screw Drivers

• T-Pins

• Straightedge

• Masking Tape

• Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*

• T-Bar Sanding Block, or similar

• Waxed Paper

• Iron-on Covering Material (Top Flite MonoKote®

recommended)

• Silicone Fuel Tubing

• Wing Seating Tape (or silicone sealer . . . see

page 50)

• Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)

• Dubro "E-Z Connectors" (or equivalent) - 2

• Plastic Pilot (Williams Bros. 1/4-scale)

*NOTE: There are many types of good hinges on

the market, and everyone has their personal

preferences, therefore, hinges have not been
included in this kit. The current favorite for many
modelers is the type of laminated hinge that permits
hinge slotting with an X-acto knife, and gluing with

thin CA adhesive If you are building a taildragger,

heavy-duty hinges are recommended for the rudder.
See the IMAA Safety Guidelines, a portion of which is
printed in the Appendix at the end of this book.

• Lightweight Balsa Filler

• 1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench

• Vaseline Petroleum Jelly

• Sealing Iron

• Heat Gun

• IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)

• 3M "77" Spray Adhesive (optional)

• Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)

*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar
sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100 and #150-grit
sandpaper This setup is all that is required for

almost any sanding task.

6

DIE PATTERNS

Use This Drawing To Identify Die-Cut Parts

7

GET READY TO BUILD

D 1. Unroll the plan sheets Re-roll them inside out
to make them lie flat NOTE You may cut the
fuselage plan into two sections for ease of building on
the "Bottom View" You may also cut the wing plan
into three sections by cutting along the "cut lines."

D 2 Remove all parts from the box As you do,
figure out the name of each part by comparing it with
the plans and the parts list (see separate sheet).
Using a soft pencil or a felt tip pen, write the part
name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later
Use the die-cut patterns on page 7 to identify the die-
cut parts and mark them before punching out Save
all scraps If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to
punch out, do not force them' Instead, first cut around
the parts with an X-acto knife After punching out the
die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to
lightly sand the edges to square them up and remove
any die-cutting irregularities

D 3 As you identify and mark the parts, separate
them into groups, such as fuse, wing, fin and stab,
and hardware.

9" stick, cut the rudder bottom, and glue on the 1/4" x

1/4" x 3-1/2" balsa rudder top Cut two gussets from
the remaining 1/4" x 1" balsa for the inside corners of
the rudder Working right on the plan, pin these parts
in place and glue them together to make the rudder

framework.

D 3 From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" sticks, cut the internal
rudder "ribs" (trussing) to fit between the rudder
framework, and glue them in place NOTE: It is not
necessary to get these braces in the exact position

shown on the plan.

TAIL FEATHERS

PARTS NEEDED TO BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER:
D (1) US10S01 1/4" x 1" x 9" Balsa Rudder Bottom, etc.
D (1) US10S02 1/4" x 1/2" x 9" Balsa Rudder TE
D (1) US10S03 1/4" x 3/4" x 20" Balsa Fin TE, Rudder LE
D (1) US10S04 1/4" x 1/4" x 3-1/2" Balsa Rudder Top
D (1) US10S05 3/8" x 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" Balsa Fin LE
D (1) US10S20 3/8" x 1" x 7" Balsa Fin Top
D (2) US10S06 1/4" x 3-1/4" x 1-1/2" Balsa Fin Bottom
D (2) US10S08 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" Balsa Fin & Rudder

"Ribs"

D (3) US10S17 1/16" x 3" x 30" Balsa Stab/Fin Sheeting
D (1) WBNT128 3/32" wire Tailgear Assembly

BUILD THE RUDDER

D 1 Tape the fuselage plan (side view) down to
your flat work surface Tape a piece of waxed paper
over the fin and rudder portion of the plan

D 2. Using a razor saw, cut a piece of 1/4" x 3/4"
balsa (from the 20" stick) to make the rudder leading
edge Trim the ends of the 1/4" x 1/2" x 9" balsa stick

to make the rudder trailing edge From the 1/4" x 1" x

D 4 Examine the rudder framework and add thick CA
glue to any open joints, then, use your T-bar with
medium grit sandpaper to sand both sides of the
rudder framework smooth.

D 5. Cut and sand the outside perimeter of the rudder
framework to match the plan.

D 6 Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges
of the rudder (this will help to maintain symmetry when
sanding)

D 7 Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper
as shown on the plans The trailing edge should end
up approximately 1/16" wide

8

D 8 From the 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets, cut four

12" lengths Edge glue these sheets together in pairs
to make two 6" x 12" sheets, and sand both sides
smooth with a sanding block

D 9 Lay the rudder framework on the sheeting, mark
the outline, and trim the sheeting to the approximate
outline Leave the sheeting slightly oversize to allow
for positioning.

BUILD THE FIN

NOTE: You will construct the fin framework and add

the 1/16" balsa sheeting, then, you will add the 3/8"
balsa leading edge and fin top.

D 1. Cut the remaining 1/4" x 3/4" balsa stick to make
the fin trailing edge.

D 2 Edge glue the two 1/4" x 3-1/4" x 1-1/2" balsa
blocks together to make the 6-1/2" x 1-1/2" fin
bottom Cut off the ends of this sheet to match the
plan Pin the fin bottom and trailing edge to the plan.

D 3. Complete the fin framework by cutting and fitting
pieces of 1/8" x 1/4" balsa, as shown on the plan.
Glue this assembly together.

D 4 From the remaining 1/4" x 1" balsa stock, cut a
gusset to fit in the lower front corner of the fin Glue in
place

IMPORTANT NOTE: It is essential to get a very
good glue bond between the rudder framework and
the sheeting

D 10. Securely glue the 1/16" balsa sheeting to one
side of the rudder framework

D 11. Trim and sand the edges of the sheeting flush
with the perimeter of the stab framework.

D 12 Repeat steps 10 and 11, sheeting the other
side of the rudder.

D 5. Remove the fin framework from the building
board, sand both sides smooth, and sheet both sides
of the fin with 1/16" balsa in the same manner as the
rudder The fin can be sheeted using only one of the
1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets

D 6. Glue the 3/8" x 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" balsa fin leading
edge to the front edge of the built-up fin.

D 13 Sand the leading edge of the rudder to a "V-
shape" and sand the trailing edge to a rounded shape
(see the rudder cross-section on the plan) Leave the
top and bottom edges square.

D 7 Trim off the top and bottom of the leading edge

to match the plan Sand both sides of the fin smooth

9

D 8. Glue the 3/8" x 1" x 7" balsa fin top to the top
edge of the fin assembly. Trim and sand the front end
of this piece to match the plan.

D 9. Temporarily tape the rudder to the fin. While
holding the rudder in the neutral position, sand the
3/8" x 1" fin top to match the rudder.

D 10. Draw a centerline on the fin leading edge and

fin top, which will help you maintain symmetry while

sanding.

HINT: Using an X-acto knife, sharpen the inside of
one end of a 1/8" diameter brass tube, and use it to
cut the groove in the leading edge of the rudder.

PARTS NEEDED TO BUILD THE ELEVATORS AND
STABILIZER:

D

(1)

US10S14

D

(1)

US10S15

D

(2)

US10S12

D

(1)

US10S13

D

(1)

US10S11

D

(4)

US10S16
D (2) US10S09 1/2" x 2" x 14-7/8" Balsa Stab LE
D (2) US10S10 1/2" x 1" x 6-1/4" Balsa Stab Tips
D

(6)

US10S17

D (1)US10S21 1/32" x 1-1/4" x 11-1/2" Ply Spar

Thickener

BUILD THE ELEVATORS

3/8" x 2-3/4" x 5" Balsa Stab Center

3/8" Shaped Plywood Stab "Spar"

3/8" x 3/4" x 26-3/4"

LE

3/8" x 1/2" x 30" Balsa Elev TE
1/4" x 3/8" x 4" Balsa
1/8" x 3/8" x 30" Balsa Stab "Ribs"

1/16" x 3" x 30" Balsa Stab/Fin

Balsa

Elev

Stab

End

Sheeting

TE, Elev

D 11. Using a sanding block, sand the fin leading
edge to the approximate shape as shown in the fin
cross-section on the plan. Sand the fin top to a

rounded shape.

D 12. If you are building your Ultra-Sport 1000 as a
"taildragger," check the plans and mark the location of
the tailgear on the rudder. Drill a 7/64" hole in the
rudder (the hole is drilled slightly oversize to allow for
positioning, and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve"
around the wire). Then groove the rudder leading
edge to accept the tailgear wire and the nylon

tailgear bearing.

D 1. Tape the stabilizer plan (side view) down to
your flat work surface, and cover with waxed paper.

D 2. In the same manner as the rudder (steps 1 - 5),
build the framework of both elevators. Cut one of the
3/8" x 3/4" x 26-3/4" balsa sticks to make the leading
edges. Use the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick for the

trailing edges. Cut up the 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" sticks as

needed for the "ribs" (trussing).
D 3. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges

of the elevators (this will help to maintain symmetry
when sanding).

10

D 4 Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the elevators to a taper
as shown on the plans. The trailing edge should end
up approximately 1/16" wide. (See photo proceeding
page.)

between the stab sheeting and the stab
framework, especially in the center, therefore, we

recommend using 30-minute epoxy when you apply
the final piece of sheeting Spread the epoxy evenly
but sparingly, to avoid excess weight

D 5 Select the two softest (lightest) 1/16" x 3" x 30"
balsa sheets, and use them to sheet both sides of the
elevators Make sure you obtain a good glue bond
between the sheeting and the internal structure.

D 6. Sand the leading edge of the elevators to a "V-

shape" as shown on the plan Sand the trailing edge
to a slightly rounded shape Do not round the elevator
ends (leave them square)

BUILD THE STABILIZER

NOTE: You will construct the stab framework and

add the 1/16" balsa sheeting, then, you will add the
1/2" balsa leading edges and tips.

D 1 Accurately pin the 3/8" x 3/4" x 26-3/4" balsa
stab TE onto the plan.

D 6 Cut one end of the two 1/2" x 2" x 14-7/8" balsa
stab leading edges to match the plan at the stab
centerline Glue the leading edges to the stab
framework Cut and sand the ends of the leading
edges to match the ends of the stab.

D 7 Glue the 1/2" x 1" x 6-1/4" balsa stab tips to the
ends of the stab Trim and sand the front ends of the
stab tips to match the plan

D 8 Temporarily tape the elevators to the stab.

While holding the elevators in the neutral position,

sand the 1/2" x 1" stab tips to match the elevator.

D 2 Trial fit the 3/8" x 2-3/4" x 5" balsa stab center
and the triangle-shaped 3/8" ply spar* in place on the
plan. The leading edge of the spar should line up with
the lines on the plan If not, sand the edges of the
balsa stab center until these parts line up correctly
Securely glue the stab center to the stab TE, and glue

the spar to the stab center.

*NOTE: It is common for the 3/8" ply to be slightly
thinner than the 3/8" balsa For this reason, we have
included a 1/32" x 1-1/4" x 11-1/2" ply sheet If the
spar in your kit is thinner than the 3/8" balsa stab

center, glue the 1/32" ply sheet to the spar, and trim
the edges to match the spar.

D 3 Complete the stab framework by cutting and
fitting pieces of 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa, as shown on
the plan. Glue this assembly together.

D 4 Remove the stab framework from the building

board and sand both sides and all edges smooth.

D 5. There are four remaining 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa
sheets Edge glue these sheets together in pairs to

make two 6" x 30" sheets, and sand both sides

smooth with a sanding block Use these to sheet the
top and bottom of the stab framework NOTE: It is

essential to get a strong and complete bond

D 9 Draw a centerline on the stab leading edge and
tips, which will help to maintain symmetry while
sanding.

D 10. Using a sanding block, sand the stab leading
edge to the approximate shape as shown in the stab
cross-section on the plan Sand the stab tips to a

rounded shape.

TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES

D 1 Using the plans as a guide, mark the hinge
locations on the stab, elevators, fin and rudder.

NOTE: There are many types of good hinges on the

market, and everyone has their personal preferences,
therefore, hinges have not been included in this kit.
The current favorite for many modelers is the type of

laminated hinge that permits hinge slotting with an

X-acto knife, and gluing with thin CA adhesive If you

are building a taildragger, heavy-duty hinges are

recommended for the rudder See the IMAA Safety

Guidelines in the Appendix at the end of this book.

11

CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care when
cutting hinge slots with an X-acto knife, to avoid
cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks while
you are pushing on the knife, the blade could go
into your hand before you know it! A good pre
caution is to wear leather gloves while performing
this step.

D 2. Cut the hinge slots and temporarily install the
elevator and rudder hinges.

WING ASSEMBLY

PARTS NEEDED TO BUILD THE WING:

D (4) US10W07 1/8"x1/2"x39-1/8" Basswood Long Spar
D (4) US10W08 1/8"x1/2"x26" Basswood Medium Spar
D (4)US10W09 1/8"x1/2"x13-13/16" Basswood Short

Spar

D

(1)

US10W02

D

(1)

US10W14

D (2) US10W01 15/32"x1-1/2"x40" Tapered Balsa Aileron

D (4) US1 OW03 3/32"x2"x39-3/8" Balsa TE Sheeting
D (4) US10W04 3/32 x3"x39-1/8" Balsa LE Sheeting
D (2) US10W05 3/32"x1-3/4"x24-1/2" Balsa Front LE

D (4) US10W06 1/8"x1/2"x3-1/4" Ply Aileron Servo Rail
D (12) US10W10 3/32"x3"x11-1/8" Balsa Center Sheeting

D (1) US10W20 3/32"x3'x18" Balsa Aileron Bay Sheeting

D (2) US10W21 1-1/4"x1-7/8"x11-5/8" Balsa Wing Tip

D (1) US10W12 1/4"x39-1/8" Tapered Balsa TE Support

D

(2)

US10W15
D (2) US10W22 Die-cut 1/8" Balsa Rib 1, etc.
D

(2)

US10W27

D

(2)

US10W23
D

(2)

US10W24
D (2) US10W25 Die-cut 3/32" Balsa Ribs 10, 11 & 12
D

(2)

US10W26
D (1) US10W35 Die-cut 1/8" Ply Dihedral Brace
D (1) US10F29 Die-cut 1/8" Ply Dihedral Gauge, etc.

D (1) US10F34 Die-cut 1/16" Ply Bolt Plate, etc.

D (1) GLTP014 4" x 36" Fiberglass Cloth

D (6) SS90W11 3/32" x 3/8" x 36" Balsa Cap Strips

D (2) NYLON03 Small nylon Control Horn
D (10) SCRW002 2-56 x 5/8" Machine Screw

Shaped Balsa LE
3/32"

Sheet

Jig

5/16"

Die-cut 3/32" Balsa Ribs 4, 6 &

Die-cut

Die-cut 3/32" Balsa Ribs 2 & 8

Die-cut 3/32" Balsa Ribs 7 &

x3"

x2-5/8"

Dia. x 6" Birch Wing

3/32"

and

TE

Set

Balsa Shear Webs (22)

Dowel

Balsa Ribs 3 & 5

13

9, etc.

D (2) WBNT170 3/16" wire Main LG Struts

(PARTS NEEDED FOR OPTIONAL RETRACTABLE
LANDING GEAR)
D (2) US10W16 1/4"x1-5/16"x3-5/16" Ply Rear Mtng. Plate

D (2) US10W17 1/4"x3-5/16" Tapered Ply Front Mtng.

Plate

D

(2)

US10W33

D (1) WBNT171 3/16" wire Left Retract Strut
D (1) WBNT172 3/16" wire Right Retract Strut
D (2) Pushrod wires w/ 2-56 threads one end (NOT INC )
D (2) 2-56 steel clevises (NOT INCLUDED)

Die-cut

ger)

1/8"

Ply Rib Doublers (taildrag

PREPARE WING PARTS

Before assembling the wing, there are several
preliminary assemblies that must be made . ..

D 1. Before using the hard balsa spars, examine
them carefully for possible imperfections Look for
knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and any other
imperfections If possible, position each spar so the
imperfections (if any) are on the outer half of the wing
panel (toward the tip), where they will be least affected
by high stress If the spars are warped slightly, try to

"balance them out" by installing the warped spars in
opposite directions (see sketch) NOTICE: If you feel
that any of the wing parts are unusable due to severe
warps or other defects, give us a call and we'll replace
the parts.

Two Warped Spars Installed This Way Will

Result In A Straight Wing

(ADDITIONAL PARTS NEEDED FOR FIXED
LANDING GEAR)
D (2) SS90W18 1/2"x3/4"x7-3/4" Basswood Main LG

Block

D (2) US10W13 1/2"x3/4"x 1-1/2" Maple Short LG Block
D (2) SS90W20 1/2"x3/4"x1/2" Maple LG Reinf. Block
D (2) US1 OW33 Die-cut 1/8" Ply Rib Doublers (taildrag

ger)

D (2) US10W32 Die-cut 1/8" Ply Rib Doublers (tnke gear)

Two Warped Spars Installed This Way Will

Result In A Warped Wing

12

D 2 Sand one end of each of the medium and short
spars to a 2-1/2" taper as shown in the "Wing Spar
Detail" on the plan

RIB DOUBLERS (Fixed Landing Gear -

TAILDRAGGER)

(Skip this section of you will be installing retracts)

D 3. Glue the medium spars to the long spars, and
glue the short spars to the medium spars, as shown
in the "Wing Spar Detail." Sand the edges of the
spars to remove any excess glue and to make the
edges uniform. Make four spar assemblies.

RIBS
D 1. Carefully punch out all the die-cut balsa wing

ribs. Sand the edges slightly to remove any die-

cutting irregularities.
D 2. Note that the wing plan shows two alternate

locations for the main landing gear blocks Note also
that Ribs W-2, W-3 and W-4 have partial cutouts for
each of the two locations If you are building your
plane as a fixed gear taildragger, cut out the front
notches in these ribs If you are building your plane
with a tricycle gear, cut out the rear notches (If you
will be installing retracts, do not cut out any of the
notches).

RIB DOUBLERS (Fixed Landing Gear - TRIKE)
(Skip this section if your airplane is to be a taildragger)

D 1. Identify the die-cut 1/8" ply landing gear
doublers for fixed trike gear, using the following
sketch:

D 1 Identify the die-cut 1/8" ply landing gear

doublers for fixed taildragger, using the following
sketch:

D 2. The doubler for rib W-2 has a notch cut out for
the landing gear block The doublers for ribs W-3 and
W-4 have the notch locations marked, and you must

now cut out these notches.

Do not cut out aft rib notches as shown in photo.

D 3 Glue these die-cut 1/8" ply landing gear doublers
to ribs W-2, W-3 and W-4 NOTE: Make a RIGHT

and a LEFT set, gluing the doublers to the inboard
side of the ribs. Take care to carefully align the

doublers with the spar notches The doublers are
slightly shorter than the ribs at the front edge, to allow
fitting into the leading edge notches.

Do not cut out front rib notches as shown in photo.

D 2. Glue these die-cut 1/8" ply landing gear doublers
to ribs W-2, W-3 and W-4. NOTE: Make a RIGHT

and a LEFT set, gluing the doublers to the inboard
side of the ribs.

RIB DOUBLERS (Optional Retractable Landing Gear)
D 1. Identify the die-cut 1/8" ply landing gear

doublers for retracts, using the following sketch:

D 2. Note that these doublers have two small punch
marks. Push a T-pin through these marks so the
location is visible on both sides Now draw a line from
the front edge of each doubler to the back edge, using
the two small holes for alignment Draw the lines on
both sides These lines will later be used for
alignment of the retract mounting plates.

13

D 3 The doubler for rib W-3 is marked for a long,

narrow notch Extend the lines of this notch to the

edge of the doubler, and cut out this notch

D 4 Glue these die-cut 1/8" ply landing gear doublers
to ribs W-3 and W-4 NOTE: Make a RIGHT and a

LEFT set, gluing the doublers to the inboard side

of the ribs. Take care to carefully align the doublers

with the spar notches The doublers are slightly
shorter than the ribs at the front edge, to allow fitting
the ribs into the leading edge notches

D 5 Cut out the long slot in the W-3 ribs using the
slot in the doublers as a guide

D 6 If you will be installing B&D retracts, drill a 3/8"
hole in the #4 doublers, using the punched hole in the
W-4 ribs as a guide.

LEADING & TRAILING EDGES

D 1 The shaped and notched wing leading edges

(LE) and trailing edges (TE) are fastened together by
thin strips of balsa Separate them by cutting with an

X-acto knife, as shown in the following sketch.

LEADING EDGE SHEETING

D 1. Prepare the leading edge sheeting as follows

Edge glue the 3/32" x 1-3/4" x 24-1/2" balsa sheets to
the 3/32" x 3" x 39-1/8" balsa sheets as shown here,
making four sets. NOTE: The two smaller front
sheets will be cut on a diagonal in the next step,
providing you with the front pieces you will need to
complete the 3rd and 4th sets

D 2. Now measure and mark the balsa sheeting (see
sketch below), then cut the angle in the sheeting,
cutting along a metal straightedge for accuracy

D 2 Examine the shaped, notched leading and
trailing edges Notice that the notches at one end of
each LE and TE are 3-1/2" apart These are the

notches for W-1 and W-2 Also notice that all notches

in the LE and TE are vertical, however, rib W-1 will be

installed at a slight angle using the Dihedral Gauge
Therefore, you should now modify the notch for W-1

by cutting it to the angle of the rib You may
determine the approximate angle of the cut by holding
the Dihedral Gauge (DG) against the LE as shown
above.

BUILD THE WING PANELS

NOTE: It will be helpful to build the wing on a piece

of "Celotex" or other semi-soft (and flat) surface, into
which you may easily stick pins to firmly hold down the
wing parts while building, to avoid warps

D 1 Tape the plan to your flat work surface, and
cover the wing drawing with waxed paper (so you
won't glue the wing to the plan') NOTE: If your work

14

space is limited, you may cut the left and right wing
half drawings apart

NOTE: Follow steps 2 through 45 to build the
RIGHT wing panel, then repeat these steps to
build the LEFT wing panel.

D D 2 Pin one of the spars to the plan with the

short spar facing up and toward the root. NOTE:

The spars are cut slightly too long Center the spar on

the plan so an equal amount protrudes on both ends.

with the aft edge of the TE (see sketch below) You
may cover the top edge of the Jig with a strip of waxed
paper or plastic wrap to avoid gluing it to the TE

D D 3 Place the ribs on the spar in their
approximate position, but do not glue IMPORTANT:
Pay special attention to the way ribs W-1 through W-7
are installed ..

W-1: Oval-shaped retract pushrod hole up.

W-2: LG slots down, LG doubler (if any)

towards tip
W-3: LG slots down, LG doubler towards tip
W-4: LG slots down, LG doubler towards root.
W-5: Oval-shaped aileron servo wire hole up
W-6: Aileron servo rail slots down
W-7: Aileron servo rail slots down

D D 5 Pin the TE to the TE Jig, making sure the ribs
line up with the plan

D D 6 Glue ribs W-2 through W-13 to the TE
(Apply glue sparingly, to avoid gluing the TE to the
Jig) Glue ribs W-2, W-6 and W-13 to the spar,
making sure they are lined up with the plan, and
positioned at 90-degrees to the work surface

D D 7 Work the notched leading edge onto the
front ends of the ribs NOTE: Position the LE as
shown here

Center LE Vertically On Front Of Ribs

This photo is not 100% accurate Some components
may vary

D D 4 Insert the rear ends of the ribs into the
notches in the TE, then block up the TE with the 1/4"

balsa TE Jig supplied NOTE: THE NARROW END
OF THE TE JIG IS AT RIB W-13. Securely pin the jig
to the building surface, with the aft edge of the Jig even

15

This photo is not 100% accurate. Some components
may vary.

D D 8. Make sure the ribs are fully down on the plan
and all ribs are inserted into the LE notches. Angle rib
W-1 slightly using the dihedral gauge (DG). Glue W-

1 to the TE, LE and bottom spar. Glue all other ribs to
the LE and bottom spar. Follow up by applying a drop
or two of medium or thick CA to all spar/rib joints.

D D 9. Glue the top spar in place, making sure you
do not change the angle of W-1. IMPORTANT:

Install the top spar with the short spar facing down.

This photo is not 100% accurate. Some components

may vary.

D D 10. Sort through the pre-cut 3/32" balsa vertical
grain shear webs, selecting the hardest ones (which
will be used near the root of the wing). Glue the shear
webs to the rear edge of the spars in all rib bays
except between ribs W-1 and W-2. NOTE: You
may wish to trial fit, mark, and trim each web before
gluing in. NOTE: The webs must be securely glued
to the spars, but it is not necessary to glue the webs
to the ribs.

D D 11. Lightly sand the tops of the ribs to blend with

the notched trailing edge; then glue one of the 3/32" x

2" x 39-3/8" balsa trailing edge sheets in place.
NOTE: The edge of the TE sheet may not be exactly
straight, but just position the sheet so it slightly

overlaps the TE, and any overlap can be sanded off

later.

D D 12. Before applying the leading edge sheeting in
the next step, block up the leading edge in a few

places with scraps of wood. Then use your T-bar to
lightly sand off the edges of the shear webs and
smoothly blend the ribs to the spar. Also, lightly sand

the tops of the ribs to eliminate imperfections.

D D 13. Prepare the 3/32" balsa leading edge
sheeting by sanding the front edge to a slight bevel

so it will fit snugly against the back of the leading

edge.

NOTE: In the next steps, maintain straightness by
keeping the wing down on the flat surface and on

the TE

Jig.

NOTE: It will be helpful to have the following items

handy for the next step . . . thin CA, thick CA, a wet
cloth and masking tape. Read through the following
step and go through a "dry run" before actually gluing.

D D 14. Position the leading edge sheeting at the

rear edge of the notched LE so there is an equal

16

amount protruding on both ends of the wing Using
thin CA, glue the front (beveled) edge of the leading
edge sheeting to the back edge of the leading edge.
Now wet the top surface of the sheeting (if necessary)
to make it bend easier Apply thick CA glue to the top
edge of the ribs and to the front half of the spar Then
immediately bend the sheeting down onto the ribs and
spar Hold the sheeting down with long strips of
masking tape until the glue has set.

D D 15 Using the 3/32" x 3" x 11-1/8" balsa sheets,
glue the top center section sheeting in place as
shown on the plan (Use the scraps trimmed from the
LE sheeting if needed for the aft pieces).

D D 16 From the 3/32" x 3/8" x 36" balsa sticks, cut
and glue cap strips to the top edges of all exposed
ribs, from the TE sheeting to the LE sheeting HINT:
For easier positioning of the cap strips, first mark the
location of each rib on the LE and TE sheeting

D D 21 Drill a 3/16" hole down through the grooved

LG block and the 1-1/2" block Line up the drill so you
are drilling straight down through the middle of the 1­1/2" block.

D D 22 Trial fit the 3/16" diameter main landing
gear wire into the landing gear block at this time Cut
or file the groove and hole in the landing gear block as

necessary for a good fit

D D 17. Remove the wing panel from the building
board Check all glue joints, adding glue as
necessary.

D D 18. Using a razor saw and a sanding block,
carefully cut off and sand all excess sheeting spars,
LE and TE even with W-1 and W-13. Sand the TE
sheeting flush with the TE.

FOR FIXED LANDING GEAR, perform steps 19-22
D D 19 Trial fit the long grooved hardwood LG

block into the notches in ribs W-2, W-3 and W-4 (see

the wing plan for proper positioning) File the notches
if necessary for a good fit. Now use epoxy to securely
glue the block in place.

FOR RETRACTS, perform steps 23 - 31

NOTE: In the Ultra-Sport 1000 prototype we used

B&D mechanical retracts, and you will see them in the
photographs You may use whatever type of retracts
you prefer, as long as they are of the correct size for
this airplane (see the introductory remarks at the
beginning of this book) If you are using B&D retracts,
it will be necessary to drill them out to accept the 3/16"
wire struts supplied in this kit (see below*) It is also

recommended that you file a "flat" on the 3/16" struts
at the set screw location, to prevent the struts from
turning You should wait until the retracts have been
installed before doing so, to insure proper alignment
(See Step 30).

instructions for drilling B&D retracts. Back out the set
screw so it won't interfere with the drill Drill out the
strut hole first with an 11/64" bit, then a 3/16" bit If it
is difficult to insert the strut, re-drill the hole with a #12
(.189") drill bit Stop drilling as soon as you feel the
bit bottom out in the hole. Temporarily install the
gear strut, tighten the setscrew, and check operation.
Due to the larger strut, the setscrew may bind against
the actuator arm and prevent full retraction If this is
the case, you'll have to file a small amount off the top
of the set screw Do this by drilling a 5/32" hole in a
scrap piece of hardwood, screwing the set screw in
with 1/32" protruding, and filing off the top of the set
screw.

D D 20. Epoxy the 1/2" x 3/4" x 1-1/2" hardwood
block to the LG block and to the 1/8" ply doubter on

rib W-2, as shown on the plan and in the photo Then
epoxy the 1/2" x 3/4" x 1/2" hardwood block to the
other end of the LG block and to the 1/8" ply doubler
on rib W-4.

NOTE: Most standard wheels have a 5/32" diameter
axle hole, so you'll have to drill the hubs of your
wheels to fit the 3/16" diameter landing gear wire
supplied in this kit Start by using a 3/16" drill bit, but
because the nylon hub material is somewhat flexible, it
may be necessary to use a 13/64" drill bit to get the
hole large enough to allow the wheel to turn freely.

17

NOTE: Install a wheel on the strut and check out how

much force it takes to raise the wheel If you are using
standard (heavy) wheels, it may be necessary to
increase the tension on the retract assist spring If
you are using lighter wheels, such as Sullivan "Skylite"
wheels, the stock spring tension may be adequate

D D 23. You previously drew lines through the
location holes in the doublers on ribs W-3 and W-4.
Now measure down 1/4" from this line (toward the top
sheeting) and make a few marks

D D 24 Find all the 1/4" balsa triangle in the kit, and
select the hardest balsa for the next step

D D 29 Install the retract mechanism (with the gear
strut but without a wheel) and the pushrod * Cut
clearance holes and notches in the ribs and mounting
plate as required for the strut and pushrod Cycle the
gear a few times to make sure everything clears
*Pushrods for optional retracts not included in kit

D D 30 This is a good time to file a "flat" on the gear
strut A good way to do this is to align the axle with
the spar (or set it to "toe-in" slightly), then tighten the
set screw to mark the strut Remove the strut, and file
a flat area on the strut similar to the stock strut that
came with the retracts Re-install the strut, tighten the
set screw, and check the strut alignment.

D D 25. Cut pieces of 1/4" balsa triangle to run 1/4"
below the lines on the doublers, from the spar to the
LE Glue these triangles to the doublers to serve as
supports for the retract mounting plates Cut away the
section of the triangle that bridges the slot in W-3.

D D 26 Bevel the rear edge of the 1 /4" x 1 -5/16" x 3­5/16" ply aft retract mounting plate to fit snugly against
the spar Bevel the front edge of the tapered 1/4 ply
retract mounting plate to fit snugly against the LE

D D 31. Remove the strut, but leave the retract
mechanism in the mount Measure exactly where the
strut socket is, and make reference marks on the spar
and LE so that you can later cut into the leading edge
sheeting in the right place to find it after the sheeting
has been installed

WING ASSEMBLY CONTINUES

(for all landing gear options)

D D 32 Glue one of the die-cut 1/8" ply LE doublers

to the back of the LE, between ribs W-1 and W-2

D D 27 Trial fit your retract mechanism onto the
mounting plates, and cut out notches in the plates as
necessary to clear the mechanism

D D 28 Using 30-minute epoxy, glue the retract
mounting plates securely to the rib doublers, spar and
LE Wipe away any excess epoxy along the LE

D D 33 Place the wing panel upside down on the
building board, turn the TE support jig end for end and
pin the TE to the support jig (again, with the narrow
end of the jig at the wing tip), and place blocks under
the leading edge for additional support

D D 34 Sand the TE to blend with the ribs Sand off
any excess glue or other imperfections on the bottom
of the wing Then install the 3/32" x 2" x 39-3/8"
bottom TE sheeting.

18