Great Planes GPMA0420 User Manual
ULTRA SPORT 60
INSTRUCTION BOOK
PLEASE READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOKLET IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING
ASSEMBLY. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY! THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and property
damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to build this kit correctly, properly install
all R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and fly it only with
experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accordance with all safety standards as set down in the
Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA to become properly insured
before you attempt to fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING. CONSULT YOUR
LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN
EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
(800)435-9262
P.O. BOX
788
URBANA, ILLINOIS 61801
(217)398-8970
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ............. 3
Precautions
Abbreviations
Decisions
Other Items Required
Supplies and Tools Needed
Die Patterns
Types
of
Get Ready to Build
TAIL FEATHERS
Fin and Rudder
Stabilizer and Elevator
Install Hinges
WING ASSEMBLY
Join Wing Panels
Install Aileron Torque Rods
Sand
"Flats"
Fiberglass Center Section
Install Wing Tips
Install Ailerons
Install Wing Dowels
Install Wing Bolt Plate
Fill Landing Gear Slots
Installing Retracts
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
Prepare Fuse Sides
Assemble Lower Fuselage
Drill Engine Mount
Install Servos, Guide Tubes
Mount the Wing to the Fuse
Fit Fuel Tank, Fuelproofing
Install Turtle Deck
Assemble Nose Section
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Sand Fuselage
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You
Must
Make
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Wood
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on LE and TE
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3
3
4
4
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5
6
6
6
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7
8
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13
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14
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15
16
16
17
17
17
18
18
19
21
22
23
25
25
27
30
30
Install Wing Fairings ............. 30
Install Wing Fillets
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31
Shape Fin Fillets ................ 32
Mount Stabilizer and Fin ......... 33
Install Servos, Horns & Pushrods ... 34
Control Surface Throws
FINISHING
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Additional Fuelproofmg
Seal
Off
Cockpit
Prepare Canopy
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Balance Airplane Laterally
Final Sanding
Covering
Glue the Hinges
Install Pilot
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Glue Canopy in Place
Wing Seating
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Re-install Engine & Radio
Balance
Your
Model
Final Hookups and Checks
PRE-FLIGHT
Charge Batteries
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Find a Safe Place to Fly
Ground Check
Range Check
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Engine Safety Precautions
AMA SAFETY CODE
FLYING
Takeoff
Flying
Landing
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FLIGHT TRIMMING
NOTES
PARTS LIST
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2-VIEW DRAWING
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35
36
36
36
36
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38
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39
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40
40
40
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41
41
41
41
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42
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46
48
2
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at (217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad
to help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please
look up the part numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have them
ready when calling.
4. You mustproperly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in the
air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before the first
and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is operating, and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check the nylon
clevises and horns often, and replace if they show signs of
wear.
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes Ultra Sport 60! Jim Feldmann's original design was
featured as a construction article in the August, 1989 issue of
RC Modeler magazine, and has been hailed by many as "the
best sport flying airplane ever''! The design starts with the
legendary "Kaos" wing platform, and features modem
styling and state-of-the-art construction techniques. The
result is an ultra-stable, ultra-smooth flying airplane that does
what you want it to, no more and no less.
The Ultra Sport 60 is easy to build, totally predictable,
smooth-flying and has very docile stall characteristics, making it the ultimate sport airplane for the modeler who wants to
fly with a higher degree of precision. Because it naturally
tracks through maneuvers better than other sport airplanes,
you'll fly belter when you're flying an Ultra Sport 60.
This is not a beginner's airplane! While the Ultra
Sport 60 is easy to build and flies great, we must discourage
you from selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane. It is fast,
highly maneuverable, and lacks the self-recovery characteristics of a good basic trainer such as the Great Planes PT
Series airplanes. On the other hand, if you have already
learned the basics of R/C flying and you are able to safely
handle an ' 'aileron trainer'' airplane such as the Great Planes
Trainer Series or Big Stick Series airplanes, the Ultra Sport
60 is an excellent choice.
6. You must fly the model only with the competent help
of a well experienced R/C pilot if you are not already an
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a top
quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality
and flyability of your finished model depends on how you
build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety
of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is light, straight and true.
INSTRUCTIONS IN BOXES LIKE THIS ARE
VERY IMPORTANT AND SHOULD BE FOLLOWED CAREFULLY
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the plans and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model as represented
by the plans, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable
model. In a few cases the plans and instructions may differ
slightly from me photos. In those instances you should
assume the plans and written instructions are correct
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition, the correct sized engine and correct components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
Tri = Triangle
= Inches
3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine size range is as follows:
.60 - .65 cubic inch displacement 2-cycle
.70 - .91 cubic inch displacement 4-cycle
The engine you select will determine how you build the
fuselage, so it is important that you have the engine close at
hand while building.
This kit includes the new Great Planes Adjustable
Engine mount. This mount will work on most .40-.60
2-Cycles and .40-.70 4-cycles. Cut or break the
"spreader bar" off each mount half. The surfaces
where the spreader bars were attached need to be
very smooth to allow the mount halves to fit together.
Snap the two mount halves together. Slide the mount
halves apart until the engine mounting lugs will sit
flat on the beams.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
• Four-channel radio with 4 servos (additional channel and
retract servo required if retracts are being used).
• Propellers (see engine instructions and above engine
notes for recommended sizes).
• Spinner (2-3/4" diameter)
• Fuel Tank (11 to 14 ounce)
• Main Wheels* - 2 (2-1/2" dia. for fixed gear and retract)
• Nose Wheel* - 1 (2-1/2" diameter, required for trike
only)
• Tail Wheel - 1 (1" diameter, required for taildragger
only)
• 5/32" Wheel Collars - 4 or 6
• 3/32" Wheel Collars - 2 (required for taildragger only)
• Iron-on Covering Material
• Silicone Fuel Tubing
• Wing Sealing Tape (or silicone sealer ... see instructions)
• Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
• Dubro "E-Z Connectors" (or equivalent) - 2
• Main Gear Retracts: (optional)
Mechanical: Dave Brown 2-Gear Main, or
equivalent
Pneumatic: Robart #605 90-degree mains, or
equivalent (requires #188 air control kit)
• Plastic Pilot (Williams Bros. 2-5/8" scale)
•"Lightweight wheels are recommended.
NOTE: If you choose to power your Ultra Sport 60 with a 4.
cycle engine, keep in mind that the RPM of your engine will
be considerably less than that of a 2-cycle engine; therefore,
you should select a higher pitch propeller to keep the speed
and overall performance roughly equivalent to that of a 2cycle engine. For example, an 11x7 or 11x8 prop would be
used with a .61 (2-cycle) engine; but an 11x11 prop may be
the best choice for a .91 4-cycle engine.
LANDING GEAR CONFIGURATION
The Ultra Sport 60 may be built with a "taildragger"
or "tricycle" landing gear configuration, and a retractable
main gear may be installed if you want to really ' 'clean up"
this airplane for ultra-smooth and precise aerobatics.
There is not. however, room for a nose gear retract;
therefore, if you want retracts, you'll have to use the "taildragger" configuration.
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive
2 oz. Medium or Thick CA Adhesive
2.5 oz. 30-Minute Epoxy
Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16". 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64". 5/32",
13/64", 7/32". and 1/4"
Sealing Iron
Heat Gun
Hobby Saw (Xacto Razor Saw)
Xacto Knife, #11 Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
T-Pins
Straightedge
Masking Tape
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block, or similar
Waxed Paper
Lightweight Balsa Filler
1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
Isopropyi Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
3M "77" Spray Adhesive (optional)
Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar
sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100 and #150-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for almost any sanding
task. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper
handy for finish sanding before covering.
4
DIE DRAWINGS
Use this drawing to help you identify the die-cut parts
5
TYPES OF WOOD
BALSA
BASSWOOO
GET READY TO BUILD
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll them inside out to make
them lie flat. NOTE: You may cut the fuselage plan into two
sections for case of building on the "Bottom View," by
cutting along the "cut line" shown on the plan.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out
the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the
parts list. Using a felt tip pen, write the part name or size on
each piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on page 5 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before punching out. Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut
parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead,
first cut around the parts with an Xacto knife. After punching
out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to
lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.
3. Working on a flat surface covered with waxed paper,
glue the fin front to the fin rear, then glue on the fin tip. Sand
the front of the fin tip to blend with the fin, as shown on the
plan.
4. Using a T-bar or sanding block, sand both sides of
the fin smooth. Then sand the leading edge and top edge to
a rounded shape, as shown on the plan. Draw a centerline
along the trailing edge of the fin to mark the hinge line.
5. Glue the rudder front to the rudder rear. then glue
on the rudder bottom and rudder end.
6. Draw a centerline all around the edges of the rudder.
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin and stab (stabilizer), and hardware.
"TAIL FEATHERS"
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
1. Find the following parts: 5/16" balsa fin front, fin
rear, rudder front, rudder rear and rudder bottom. Compare
the parts to the plans to make sure you have the correct parts.
Also find the 5/16" x 5/8" x 5-3/4" balsa stick, and the 1/8" x
3/8" x 11-7/8 "balsa stick.
2. Cut the 1/8" x 3/8" x 11 -7/8" balsa stick into 5 pieces
having lengths of: 2-7/8", 2-7/8", 1-5/8", 1-5/8" and 2-3/4".
The 2-3/4" length is the rudder end. The remaining pieces
are the elevator ends.
7. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper as shown
on the plans. The trailing edge should end up approximately
1/8" wide and have a rounded shape. (Do not sand to a sharp
edge). Sand the bottom edge to a rounded shape. Sand the
leading edge to a "V-shape" as shown on the plan.
8. Hold the fin and rudder together and mark the fin tip
at the rudder trailing edge. Cut off the fin tip and sand it to
match the rudder as shown on the plan.
9. If you are building a'' taildragger'', check the plans
and mark the location of the tailgear on the rudder. Drill a
6
7/64" hole in the rudder, and groove the rudder leading edge
to accept the tailgear wire and the nylon tailgear bearing.
DO NOT GLUE YET! (The hole is drilled slightly oversize
to allow for positioning, and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve"
around the wire).
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND
ELEVATORS
1. Find the following parts: 3/8" balsa stab front, stab
rear and elevators. You'll also need the 3/8" x 5/8" x 11"
balsa stab tip stock, the 1/8" elevator ends that you previously cut, and the 1/8" wire elevator joiner.
6. Sand both sides of the elevators to a taper as shown
on the plans. The trailing edge should end up approximately
1/8" wide and have a rounded shape (do not sand to a sharp
edge). Sand the leading edge to a "V-shape" as shown on the
plan.
7. Temporarily tape the elevators to the stab, providing
1/16" clearance between the elevator end and the stab tip.
8. Lay the 1/8" wire elevator joiner in place on the
elevators and mark its outline using a fine point fell-tip pen.
2. Glue the stab front to the stab rear. Then glue on
the stab tips. Sand the front of the stab tips to blend with the
stab.
3. Glue the elevator ends to the elevators and sand to
blend.
4. Sand both sides of the stab smooth, then sand the
leading edge and lips to a rounded shape. (Leave the center
portion of the LE square). Draw a centerline along the
trailing edge of the stab to mark the hinge line.
5. Draw a centerline all around the edges of the eleva-
tors.
9. Accurately drill holes in the elevators for the 1/8"
wire joiner. Begin by drilling a 1/16" or 5/64" pilot hole, then
drill the final hole to a depth of 7/8" with a 9/64" drill bit.
(The hole is drilled slightly oversize to allow for positioning,
and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire).
10. Using an Xacto knife, sharpen the inside of one end
of a 1/8" diameter brass tube and use it to cut grooves in the
7
CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care
when cutting hinge slots with an Xacto knife, to
avoid cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks
while you are pushing on the knife, the blade could
go into your hand before you know it! A good
precaution is to wear leather gloves and always cut
away from your hand while performing the following steps.
leading edge of the elevators to accept the joiner wire.
11. Roughen the joiner wire with coarse sandpaper, then
clean the wire thoroughly with alcohol to remove any oily
residue.
12. Trial fit the joiner wire into the elevators, then glue
it in using 5-minute or 30-minute epoxy. Work plenty of
epoxy into the holes with a toothpick, then lay the elevator
leading edges along a straightedge to insure perfect alignment.
2. Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines
which you previously drew, using an Xacto knife or a
slotting fork and slotting hook. The recommended procedure
for cutting hinge slots with an Xacto knife is given below.
A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit in the
trailing edge at the hinge location. This first cut is to establish your cut in the right place, so concentrate on
staying on the centerline and don't cut too deep!
B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line,
going slightly deeper each time. As you make these
additional cuts, work on going straight into the wood.
Continue this process while' 'wiggling'' the knife handle
back and forth until the blade has reached the proper
depth for the hinge.
C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is
difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and move it back
and forth in the slot a few times to enlarge the slot
3. IMPORTANT! Condition or "break-in" the hinges
by folding them back and forth several times.
4. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the rudder
and elevators in place on the fin and stab. Do not glue the
hinges until after you have covered the model.
INSTALL THE HINGES (Do not glue)
NOTE: One-piece molded polypropylene hinges are sup-
plied in this kit. If you choose to use these hinges or the
"pinned"-type hinges, you may cut the hinge slots at this
time. However, if you choose to use the one-piece hinges that
are paper covered for CA glue installation, you may wait until
after covering before cutting the hinge slots.
1. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE and
transfer the marks over to the fin. Place the elevators against
the stab TE and transfer the marks over to the stab. Note:
Heavy duty hinges should be used on the rudder if you are
building a taildragger.
WING
NOTE: The following instructions explain how to build the
wing on a flat surface, directly on the plans. An alternate
method is to use a Great Planes Wing Jig (available from your
local hobby dealer). Many expert modelers prefer to use a
wing jig for high performance airplanes, as it helps to insure
a straight, warp-free wing, especially if you do not have a
workbench or building board that is perfectly flat. If you
choose to use the Wing Jig, please read the instructions that
are included with the jig before beginning.
8
BUILD THE WING PANELS
NOTE: It will be helpful to build the wing on a piece of
"Celotex" or other semi-soft (and flat) surface, into which
you may easily stick pins to firmly hold down the wing parts
while building, to avoid warps.
1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface, and cover
the wing drawing with waxed paper (so you won't glue the
wing to the plan!). NOTE; If your work space is limited, you
may cut the left and right wing half drawings apart.
2. The shaped and notched wing leading edges (LE)
and trailing edges (TE) are fastened together by thin strips of
balsa. Separate them by folding until the balsa breaks. Sand
away the excess balsa that remains along the edges after
breaking them apart, using a T-bar with 100-grit sandpaper.
3. Before using the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" hard balsa spars,
examine them carefully for possible imperfections. Look for
knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and any other imperfections.
If possible, position each spar so the imperfections (if any) are
on the outer half of the wing panel (toward the tip), where they
will be least affected by high stress. If the spars are warped
slightly, try to "balance them out" by installing the warped
spars in opposite directions (see sketch).
NOTE: If you will be installing a retractable landing gear,
disregard Steps 6 and 7.
6. Note that the wing plan shows two alternate loca-
tions for the main landing gear blocks. Note also that Ribs
W-2, W-3 and W-4 have partial cutouts for each of the two
locations. If you are building your plane as a taildragger, cut
out the front notches in these ribs. If you are building your
plane with a tricycle gear, cut out the rear notches. (If you I
|will be installing retracts, do not cut out any of the notches).
7. Glue the die-cut 1/16" ply landing gear doublers to
ribs W-2, W-3 and W-4. Be sure to glue them to the correct
side of the ribs, as shown on the plan (make a right and a left
set). Sand the doublers even with the edge of the ribs.
8. Prepare the leading edge sheeting as follows: Edge
glue the 3/32" x 1" x 13" balsa sheets to the 3/32" x 3" x 30"
balsa sheets as shown here ...
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
STRAIGHT WING
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
WARPED WING
4. Find the four 1/8" x 1/2" x 14-1/2" balsa spar
doublers. Sand one end of each spar doubler to a taper as
shown in the "Wing Spar Detail" on the plan. Glue the spar
doublers to the spars, and sand off any excess glue.
Now measure and mark the balsa sheeting (see sketch
below), then cut the angle in the sheeting, cutting along a
metal straightedge for accuracy.
NOTE: Follow steps 9 through 34 to build the RIGHT
wing panel, then repeat these steps to build the LEFT wing
panel
T-Pins
Spar
5. Carefully punch out all the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing
ribs. Sand the edges slightly to remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
9. Pin one of the spars to the plan with the spar
doubler up and toward the root NOTE: The spars are cut
slightly too long. Center the spar on the plan so an equal
amount protrudes on both ends.
9
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