Great Planes GPMA0400 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product,the buyer is advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND
WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.

TCR4P03 V1.0© Copyright 1999

P.O.Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 [phone]

WWW.GREATPLANES.COM

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

USA

MADE IN

Safety Precautions......................................................................2

Precautions .................................................................................2

Introduction.................................................................................3

Decisions You Must Make ..........................................................3

Engine Selection....................................................................3

Landing Gear Configuration...................................................3

Preparations................................................................................3

Accessories Required to Complete Your Tracer.....................3

Suggested Building Supplies and Tools.................................4

Other Tools or Accessories You May Require........................4

Building Notes .......................................................................5

Common Abbreviations Used in this Manual and on the Plans...5

Types of Wood.......................................................................5

Get Ready to Build ................................................................5

Metric Conversions................................................................6

Build the Tail Surfaces................................................................8

Build the Stab and Elevators .................................................8

Build the Fin and Rudder.......................................................9

Hinge the Tail Surfaces........................................................10

Finish the Tail Surfaces........................................................10

Build the Wing...........................................................................11

Build the Wing Spars...........................................................11

Add the Rib Doublers...........................................................11

Build the Wing Panels..........................................................12

Join the Wing Panels...........................................................17

Retract Servo and Linkage Installation................................18

Finish the Top of the Wing ...................................................20

Hinge the Ailerons ...............................................................22

Build the Fuselage....................................................................22

Assemble the Fuselage Formers and Sides........................22

Assemble the Belly Pan.......................................................25

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage..........................................25

Install the Firewall, Pushrod Tubes and Tank Hatch ............27

Build the Fuselage Front Deck and Turtle Deck...................28

Mount the Stabilizer and Fin................................................31

Mount the Engine ................................................................32

Install the Servos and Make the Pushrods..........................33

Assemble the Cowl..............................................................35

Balance the Model Laterally ................................................36

Prepare the Model for Covering...........................................36

Finish the Model ..................................................................36

Covering Technique......................................................36

Painting.........................................................................36

Final Hookups and Checks......................................................37

Join the Control Surfaces ....................................................37

Install the Hardware.............................................................38

Attach the Canopy...............................................................38

Set the Control Throws........................................................39

Balance Y our Model.............................................................39

Pre-flight....................................................................................40

Charge the Batteries............................................................40

Balance the Propeller ..........................................................40

Find a Safe Place to Fly ......................................................40

Ground Check the Model.....................................................40

Range Check Your Radio.....................................................40

Engine Safety Precautions ..................................................41

AMA Safety Code (Excerpt) ................................................41

General.........................................................................41

Radio Control ...............................................................41

Flying .........................................................................................41

Flutter Caution.....................................................................41

Takeoff .................................................................................42

Flying...................................................................................42

Landing................................................................................42

Pattern Flying.......................................................................42

Appendix ...................................................................................43

Two View Drawing.....................................................Back Cover

Your Tracer is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the Tracer, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.

If this is your first low wing sport model, we recommend
that you get help from an experienced, knowledgeable
modeler with your first flights. You'll lear n faster and avoid
risking your model before you're truly ready to solo. Your
local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your
area whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You may also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered
clubs across the country. Contact the AMA at the address
or toll-free phone number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Telephone. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

1. Build the plane according to the plans and instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in
an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions are correct.

2.Take the time to build straight, true and strong.

3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition
and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

4. Proper ly install all components so that the model
operates properly on the ground and in the air.

5. Check the operation of the model before every flight to
ensure that all equipment is operating and that the model
has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check nylon
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show signs of wear or fatigue.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you must
fly the model only with the help of a competent, well
experienced R/C pilot.

PRECAUTIONS

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:
PROTECT Y OUR MODEL,

YOURSELF AND OTHERS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or
if you have any questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone] or e-mail us at
[e-mail] and we'll be glad to
help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please
look up the part numbers and the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.

For the most up to the minute “Tech Notes” check our Web
site at www.greatplanes.com.

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes Tracer. The Tracer is intended to be an easy-to­build, easy-to-fly, competition-ready first patter n plane. This
aircraft builds just like any conventional sport plane you've
ever built, handles like a 2-meter pattern aircraft, yet slows
down and lands as easily as your first low wing.

Framing the model is very straightforward, as most of the
structure features interlocking balsa and lite-ply. These fully
detailed instructions include complete instructions for
retract installation or fixed gear.

Flying the Tracer is a thrilling and pleasurable
experience–as it should be for an aerobatic model designed
specifically for pattern style flying! It doesn't take much
elevator or aileron throw to put the Tracer through its paces.
When you have a feel for your Tracer, the throws can be
increased to high rates (see page 39) to complete the
aerobatic potential.The Tracer performs surprisingly well on
an inexpensive .40 and even better on a ball bearing .46
2-stroke, but seasoned experts will want to get the most out
of the Tracer by strapping on a .70 4-stroke.

We hope you enjoy building and flying your Great Planes
Tracer as much as we did the prototypes. Even if you never
plan to compete, many modelers find the contest
sequences and trimming information included on pages
42–44 beneficial for sharpening their flying skills and
providing new challenges.

❏4-Channel Radio with Five Servos (twin aileron servos

required)

❏One Y-Harness (HCAM2500 for Futaba) or Two 12"

Servo Extensions (HCAM2100 for Futaba) and
Computerized Radio

Optional radio equipment:

❏5-Channel Radio and Retract Servo Required for

Optional Retract Installation

❏Engine – See Engine Selection (above)
❏Spare Glow Plugs (O.S. #8 for most 2-stroke engines,

OSMG2691, Type-F for most 4-stroke engines,
OSMG2629)

Items in parentheses (OSMG2691) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops
and are listed for your ordering convenience. GPMQ is
the Great Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite

®

brand

and HCA is the Hobbico

®

brand.

Accessories Required to

Complete Y our Tracer

PREPARATIONS

Engine Selection

There are several engines that will work well in the Tracer,
but for unlimited performance we recommend a hot 2-stroke
such as an O.S.

®

.46FX or SuperTigre®G-45. If you prefer

a 4-stroke, an O.S. .52 Surpass

™

works well and the O.S.

.70 Surpass makes unlimited vertical lines a par t of every

flight experience.

Landing Gear Configuration

This plane's design provides you the option for retractable
landing gear, including complete, detailed instructions for
mechanical retracts. Even if you've never worked with
retracts before, if you purchase the items recommended
below and follow our step-by-step instructions, you should
have little difficulty.

Retractable Landing Gear (HCAP4010)
Retract Servo (Futaba

®

S136G, FUTM0670)
(2) Adjustable Axle 5/32" (GPMQ4281)
(2) Pushrod with Clevis (GPMQ3772)
(2) Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector (GPMQ3870)
(8) #4 x 1/2" Sheet Metal Screw (GPMQ3154)
1/32" x 2" x 20" Ply (For making the wheel wells)

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

INTRODUCTION

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality
and flyability of your finished model depends on how you
build it; therefore we cannot in any way guarantee
the performance of your completed model and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

3

❏Propeller (Top Flite Power Point

®

); Refer to your engine's

instructions for proper size

❏Top Flite Super MonoKote

®

Covering (Approximately 2

rolls) – See Covering (page 36)

❏Fuel-Proof Paint – See Painting (page 36)
❏3' Medium Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏1/4" Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1000)
❏10 oz.Fuel Tank (GPMQ4104)
❏Two 2" Wheels (GPMQ4221) (2-1/2" wheels desirable

for grass fields)

❏2-1/4" White Spinner (GPMQ4515)
❏Great Planes Easy Fueler

™

Fueling System (GPMQ4160)

❏3/4" Tailwheel (GPMQ4240)

These are the building tools, glue, etc. that we recommend
and mention in the manual.

We recommended Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy

❏1 oz.Thick CA- (GPMR6014)
❏2 oz.Thin CA (GPMR6003)
❏2 oz.Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue (PAAR3300)
❏#1 Hobby Knife Handle (HCAR0105)
❏#11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 Qty.)
❏HobbyLite Filler (HCAR3401)
❏X-Acto Razor Saw (XACR2531)
❏Hobbico Builder's Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏Small T-Pins (HCAR5100)
❏Medium T-Pins (HCAR5150)
❏Great Planes Plans Protector (GPMR6167)
❏Masking Tape
❏1/4-20 Tap (GPMR8105, drill bit included)
❏Great Planes Dead Center

™

Engine Mount Hole Locator

(GPMR8130)

❏Electric Power Drill
❏Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 5/32", #18 or

11/64", 3/16", #10 or 13/64" (unless purchased with 1/4­20 Tap listed above), 1/4", 17/64"

❏String (for aligning wing and stabilizer)
❏Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat Blade)
❏Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏AccuThrow

™

Deflection Meter (GPMR2405)

❏Bar Sander or Sanding Block and Sandpaper (coarse,

medium, fine grit)

Made of durable, lightweight aluminum, Easy-Touch

™

Sanders have a uniquely contoured handle that lets you
work longer with less fatigue! The incredibly flat sanding
surface removes high spots with ease. The 5.5" Hand
Sander is ideal for small parts and tight spaces. Use the
11" - 44" Bar Sanders for larger areas.Take the

guesswork
out of sanding curved or angled shapes with the
Easy-Touch Multi-Sander. Available in 11" and 22"

lengths.
Easy-Touch adhesive-backed sandpaper is already
trimmed to these tools’ width...just cut it to length and
press in place.Available in 4 different grits.

GPMR6169 Easy-Touch Hand Sander-5.5"
GPMR6170 Easy-Touch Bar Sander-11"
GPMR6172 Easy-Touch Bar Sander-22"
GPMR6174 Easy-Touch Bar Sander-33"
GPMR6176 Easy-Touch Bar Sander-44"
GPMR6190 Easy Touch Multi-Sander-11"
GPMR6191 Easy Touch Multi-Sander-22"
GPMR6180 Easy-Touch 80-Grit Sandpaper-12' roll
GPMR6183 Easy-Touch 150-Grit Sandpaper-12' roll
GPMR6184 Easy-Touch 180-Grit Sandpaper-12' roll
GPMR6185 Easy-Touch 220-Grit Sandpaper-12' roll

❏CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏Epoxy Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055, Qty. 50)
❏CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏Clevis Installation Tool (GPMR8030)
❏Hot Sock (TOPR2175)
❏Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)
❏Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 Qty.)
❏Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏36" Non-Slip Straightedge (HCAR0475)
❏Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (for epoxy clean-up)
❏Dremel

®

Moto-Tool®or Similar w/Sanding Drum, Cutting

Burr, Cut-off Wheel

❏Curved-Tip Canopy Scissors (HCAR0667)
❏Servo Horn Drill (HCAR0698)

Part Numbers for Other Tools or

Accessories Y ou May Require

Suggested Building

Supplies and Tools

4

5

There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a

length. For example #4 x 5/8"

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch and a length. For example 2-56 x 5/8"

When you see the term “test fit” in the instr uctions, it
means you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or “custom fit”
the part as necessar y for the best fit. Do not glue until told
to do so.

When you see the term “fit” in the instr uctions, it means
you should first position the part on the assembly without
using any glue, then modify or “custom fit” the par t as
necessary for the best fit. Glue when you are satisfied with
the fit.

Where you see the term “glue”, it is at your option to select
the thickness of CA with which you are most comfortable. If
the step indicates a particular thickness of glue, be sure to
use the thickness recommended for strength, penetration
and/or working time.

Whenever just “epoxy” is specified you may use either 30-
minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is
specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30­minute epoxy because you will need the working time
and/or the additional strength.

Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we may tell you to “glue the top
main spar” or “trim the bottom of the former.” It is
understood that the “top” or “bottom” of the model is as it
would be when the airplane is right-side-up and will be
referred to as the “top”even if the model is being worked on
upside-down. I.E. the “top” main spar is always the “top”
main spar even when the wing is oriented upside-down.

Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal stabilizer
Fin = Vertical fin
LE = Leading edge (front)
TE = Trailing edge (rear)
LG = Landing gear
Ply = Plywood
Bass = Basswood
" = Inches

Balsa Basswood Plywood

❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out to

make them lie flat.

❏ 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out

the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt tip or ball
point pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece
to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patter ns shown on
pages 6 and 7 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before removing them from the sheet. Save all leftovers. If
any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not
force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby
knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your Bar
Sander or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities or slivers.

❏3.As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into

groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer)
and hardware.

Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store the small
parts as you sort, identify and separate them into sub­assemblies.

Get Ready to Build

Types of Wood

Common Abbreviations Used in this

Manual and on the Plans

Building Notes

6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

7

1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm

1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm

1/4" = 6.4 mm
3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm

1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm

6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm

METRIC CONVERSIONS

You may remove the stabilizer and elevator drawing from
the plan by cutting along the dashed line. Don't forget to
cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector so the glue
won't stick to the plan.

While the placement of the outer framing of any stick-built
part is impor tant, the exact placement of the internal ribs
is not so critical. It is more important to have the ribs fit
properly between the framework and have strong, secure
glue joints than to have them placed in an exact location.
If you need to slide an internal rib left or right as much as
1/8" within the Tracer's tail framework to gain a snug fit
and a strong glue joint, feel free to do so.

❏ 1. Remove the two die-cut 3/32" balsa stab centers and

the two die-cut 3/32" balsa stab LE supports from the die
sheet as shown in the sketch.

❏ 2. Laminate the stab centers and the LE suppor ts

together with medium CA, making a 3/16" stab center and
a 3/16" LE support.

❏ 3. Pin the laminated 3/16" balsa stab LE suppor t in

position over the plan. Fit and glue the laminated 3/16"
balsa stab center to the LE support.

❏ 4. Using two 3/16" x 1/2" x 24" balsa sticks, cut, fit and

glue the stab TE support and stab TE in place. NOTE: Be
sure to cut the angle on the ends of the TE support as
shown on the plans.

❏ 5. From a 3/16" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue

the stab LE and remaining outer framework.

❏ 6. From a 3/16" x 1/4" x 12" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue

the stab ribs in place.

❏ 7. Unpin the stab from the plan. Inspect all glue joints

and re-glue with CA as necessary. Use a bar sander or a
large sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper to sand the
entire top and bottom surface of the stab framework until it
is flat and even.Be careful while sanding so that you do not
over-thin any one particular area of the stab or gouge the
stab ribs by snagging the sandpaper on them.

Note: Refrain from using excessive accelerator. Even
hours after it’s sprayed on, residual accelerator can
prematurely and unexpectedly cure the CA you use later
on nearby glue joints. Unless you must handle or remove
the part from the building board right away, we
recommend using no accelerator at all.

Build the Stab and Elevators

BUILD THE T AIL SURFACES

8

LE Support

Stab Center

Remove the Stab Center

and the LE Support from

the Balsa die sheet.

❏❏8. Edge glue two 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa sheets

together, making a 1/16" x 6" x 24" balsa sheet. Sand both
sides of this sheet smooth.

❏❏9. Glue the stab framework to the sheeting, aligning

the TE and the left outer edge of the framework with the
edges of the sheeting. Tr im the sheeting around the stab
framework. NOTE: It is impor tant to glue the sheeting
securely to the stab center.

❏ 10. Repeat steps 8 and 9, sheeting the other side of the

stab, again being sure to glue it securely to the stab center.

❏11.Sand the flat on the LE of the stab as shown on the plan.

❏ 12. From the 1-3/4" x 24" tapered balsa elevator stock,

cut two elevator halves to the shape shown on the plans.

❏ 1. Remove the stab plan from your work surface and lay

out the fuselage plan. Don't forget to cover the fin and
rudder areas of the plan with Great Planes Plans Protector
so the glue won't stick to the plan.

❏ 2. Using two 1/4" x 1/2" x 24" balsa sticks, cut, fit and

glue the fin framework and ribs. Don't forget the gusset at
the top of the fin. Note: The fin tail post goes all the way
down to the bottom of the fuse.

❏3. Unpin the fin from the plans. Inspect all glue joints and

reglue with CA as necessary. Sand the left and right sides
until they are flat and even.

❏ 4. Using a 1/4" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue

the rudder framework and ribs. It may be necessary to use
the leftover 1/4" x 1/2" balsa from the fin. Don't forget the
control horn support and the corner gussets.

❏ 5. From a 1/8" x 1/4" x 12" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue

the three cross braces in place.

❏6. Unpin the rudder from the plans. Inspect all glue joints

and reglue with CA as necessary. Sand the left and r ight
sides until they are flat and even.

Build the Fin and Rudder

9

❏ 1. Place the stab over its location on the plan and lightly

mark the hinge locations on the trailing edge with a ball
point pen. Mark the hinge locations on the elevators in the
same manner.

We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots with the
introduction of the Great Planes Slot Machine™.This simple
electric tool cuts a perfect width slot for use with CA hinges.

To cut the hinge slot, place the blades onto the wood
where you want the slot. Lightly press the teeth into the
wood. When you are satisfied with the location, press the
button on the handle and the blades will cut easily into the
balsa wood.Go to step 3 to complete hinging your stab.

If you choose not to purchase a Slot Machine you can
make the slots by completing step 2 below:

❏ 2. Cut the hinge slots in the elevator and stabilizer using

a #11 blade.Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at

the hinge location to accurately establish the hinge slot.
Make three or four more cuts, going a little deeper each
time. As you cut, slide the knife from side to side until the
slot has reached the proper depth and width for the hinge.

❏ 3. Cut 3/4" x 1" hinges for the elevators and rudder from

the supplied 2" x 9" hinge material, then snip off the
corners. Temporarily join the elevators to the stab with the
hinges, adjusting any hinge slots if necessary so they all
align. Do not glue in the hinges until you are instructed

to do so.

❏ 4. Return to steps 1 and 2 and complete the same

procedure to hinge the rudder and fin.

❏1. Shape the leading edge of the elevators and rudder to

a “V”as shown on the plans.

❏ 2. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper to round the

tail surfaces as shown on the plan.Note: The LE of the stab
is sanded to a sharper angle than the fin is to help tracking.

That's about it for the tail surfaces. They're a little more
work than sheet surfaces but they are much lighter, just as
strong and a nice piece of craftsmanship. Clean off the
work surface and get ready for the wing!

Finish the Tail Surfaces

Hinge the Tail Surfaces

10

1"
1"

3/4"

CUT HINGE SLOT
WITH HOBBY KNIFE
AND #11 BLADE

❏ 1. From two 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" basswood sticks, cut four

14-1/2" long spar doublers.

Before using the basswood spar doublers and spars,
examine them carefully for possible imperfections. Look
for knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and any other
imperfections. If possible, position each spar doubler so
the imperfections (if any) are on the outer half of the wing
panel (toward the tip), where they will be least affected by
high stress. If the spar doublers are warped slightly, try to
“balance them out” by installing the warped spar doublers
in opposite directions (see sketch).

❏ 2. Sand a 1-1/2" taper on one end of each spar doubler

as shown.

❏ 3. Glue the spar doublers to the four 1/8" x 3/8" x 30"

basswood spars, aligning the untapered end of the spar
doubler flush with the inboard end of the spar. From this
point forward we will refer to this combination as a spar.

❏ 4. Position 2 spars on top of each other with the spar

doublers against one another. Position the other 2 spars
similarly. Sand the inboard end of all four spars to match
the centerline of the wing, labeling each one as you do so.

Note: Make sure you make a bottom left, bottom right,
top left and top right spar. The top spars shown in the

photo have been turned upside-down and the label is
written on the bottom of the spar doubler.

Note: From this point forward, steps which are for
retractable gear installation will be in gray boxes. This will
help clarify which steps are for fixed gear and which are for
retracts. Fixed-gear-only steps will begin “If you will be
installing fixed gear”again for clarification.

RETRACT INSTALLATION

❏ 1a. If you will be building your Tracer with retracts, glue

the four die-cut 1/8 ply rib doublers with two slots to the
pair of die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs 3 and 4, being careful to
make a left and a right rib 3 and 4 as shown in the photo.
Note: Make sure the slots in the rib 3 doublers are the
same direction as the servo tray slots in the ribs 3.

Add the Rib Doublers

Build the Wing Spars

BUILD THE WING

11

❏ 1b. If you will be installing fixed gear, glue the four die-

cut 1/8" ply rib doublers with one slot to the pair of die-cut
3/32" balsa ribs 3 and 4, being careful to make a left and
right rib 3 and 4. Note: Make sure the slot in the doubler
going on rib 3 is in the same direction of the servo tray slot
in rib 3.

❏ 2. Trim the balsa ribs as shown, using the openings in

the rib doublers as a guide. Note: The ribs in the photo are
for retracts. If you are using fixed gear, trim your ribs in the
same manner but with only one landing gear rail cutout.

❏❏1. Tape the right wing plan to the work surface and

cover the wing drawing with GP Plan Protector (so you
won't glue the wing to the plan!) Remember, we are
building the right wing over the right wing bottom view.

❏❏2. Pin a 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" balsa wing jig stick over

the wing jig position shown on the plan. Note: Do not pin at
the rib positions.

❏❏3. Align the spar labeled “right top” at the inboard end

with the lettering facing up and cross-pin it in place. NOTE:
Remember that the top spar is against the plans right now
because the wing is being built upside-down.

❏❏4. Fit the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs 3 through 9 onto the

top spar.Note: Make sure the ply rib doublers on ribs 3 and
4 face each other and the notches are up.The ribs must be
resting on the 3/16" x 3/16" wing jig.

❏❏5. Using a square to keep all the ribs perpendicular to

the work surface, glue the ribs to the top spar.

❏❏6. Use the die-cut 1/8" ply dihedral gauge to locate

the inboard end of the bottom spar, then position the
bottom spar in the ribs. Being careful not to twist the ribs,
glue the bottom spar in place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The following instructions explain
how to build the wing directly over the plans.We'll start by
building the right wing panel upside-down over the right
wing panel plan so your progress matches the photos.

Build the Wing Panels

12

❏❏7. Using a square to keep it perpendicular to the work

surface, glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa rib 2A to the spars.

❏❏8. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply servo mount and the die-

cut 1/8" ply servo mount support in place.

❏❏9. From a 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet, cut, fit and glue

the five shear webs in place. Note:You may have to move a T­pin or two to glue the webs in place.Just replace them behind
the shear webs after the shear webs are glued in place.

❏❏10. Position the die-cut 3/32" balsa rib 2B

perpendicular to the work surface and glue it to the spars.

❏ 11. If you are building the right wing panel, trim the two

shaped balsa LE's as shown in the sketch.

❏❏12. Glue the shaped LE centered ver tically on the

front of the ribs. Trim the ends of the shaped LE flush with
the inboard side of rib 2A and flush with the outboard side
of rib 9.

❏❏13. Use the dihedral gauge to position the 3/8" x 3/8"

x 30" balsa TE at the center line of the TE of the ribs. Glue
the TE to the ribs.

If you are using fixed gear, go to step 21.

RETRACT INSTALLATION

❏❏14. Epoxy the two 1/4" x 3/8" x 4" basswood retract

rails to ribs 3 and 4.

13

Center the LE on the Ribs

❏ 15. Using a rotary tool and a cutoff wheel, cut both

retract struts so they are 4-1/8" long, measuring from the
mounting plate on the retract body.

❏ 16. Place your retract in place on the rails. Drill four

5/64" pilot holes through the bass rails, using the
mounting holes as a guide. Mount the retract with four #4
x 1/2" sheet metal screws (not provided).

❏ 17. Remove the area of the rear landing gear rail that

makes contact with the coil of the retract. Do the same
where the strut makes contact with rib 3. Hint: Your rotary
tool works well for both these tasks.Just be careful not to
accidentally over trim.

❏18.If you are building your right wing panel, mount a 2"

wheel (GPMQ4221) to each of the two adjustable axles

(GPMQ4281) with 5/32" wheel collars and 6-32 set
screws. Using a rotary tool and a cutoff wheel, cut the
axles flush with the wheel collars.

❏❏19. Mount the axle on the end of the strut, centering

the wheel between the ribs. Bend the strut forward or aft as
required to center the wheel between the LE and the spar.

❏❏20 Remove the retract from the rails. Harden the

threads in the gear rails with thin CA.Go to step 22.

❏❏21. If you are using fixed gear, epoxy the grooved

basswood landing gear rail to ribs 3 and 4.

❏❏22. Edge glue a 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet to the

shaped LE, letting it contact the front edge of each rib.

14

❏❏23. Being careful not to cut into the spar, use a

straightedge as a guide and cut the sheeting along the
center of the spar.

❏❏24. Being careful to keep the spar against the

building surface and the ribs on the wing jig, use medium or
thick CA to glue the sheeting to the ribs and the front half of
the spar.

❏ 25. Cut four 1/16" x 3/4" x 30" TE sheets from a 1/16"

x 3" x 30" balsa sheet.

❏❏26. Sand the TE so that it is flush with the ribs.Glue a

TE sheet to the TE and the ribs, aligning it along the TE of
the 3/8" TE stick.

❏❏27. Unpin and lift the wing from the work surface.

❏❏28. Tr im the TE sheet, TE, LE, LE sheet and the

spars flush with rib 9.

❏❏29.Trim the jig tab from rib 2A.
❏❏30. If you are using fixed gear, go to step 38.

RETRACT INSTALLATION

❏❏31. Set the wing right-side-up on your work surface.

Working a little at a time, cut an opening in the LE sheet
between the rails to fit the retract body. Mount the retract
body, then gradually cut away the sheeting for the strut
and the wheel.

❏❏32. Select or cut a piece of 1/32" x 2" x 8-3/4" ply (not

included) with the grain running the short way. Wrap it
around a soda can of your choice, allow the sheet to overlap
and glue the sheet to itself.This will be the wheel well.

15

❏❏33. Shape one end of the wheel well so that when

slid in place it makes contact with the sheeting all the
way around.

❏❏34. While holding the well in place, mark a cut line

around it so that the top sheeting will just touch the well
when it is glued in place. Remove the well from the can
and cut around the line.

❏❏35. Double-check the shaping of the well by looking

at it from the inboard end of the wing. When satisfied with
the fit, glue it to the sheeting, centering it between ribs 3
and 4. Note: Leaving the can in the well will help the well
hold its shape as it is being glued.

❏❏36. Tr im the bottom LE sheeting from within the

wheel well.

❏❏37. Epoxy the die-cut 1/8" ply retract support rib

in place.
If this is your first wing panel, go back to step one and

build the left wing half over the left wing plan.

❏❏38. If you are installing fixed gear, turn your wing right-

side-up and epoxy the 7/16" x 5/8" x 3/4" maple grooved
torque block to the rib 3 doubler and the landing gear rail,
with the groove facing the doubler as shown in the photo.

❏❏39. Drill a 5/32" hole through the landing gear rail and

bottom sheeting, using the groove in the torque block as
a guide.

16

❏❏40. Tur n the wing upside-down. Using the slot in the

landing gear rail as a guide, cut the opening for the gear to
fit. Chamfer the torque block opening to allow the radius in
the landing gear leg to fit properly in the rail.

❏❏41. Mount the gear leg with two plastic straps and

four #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws, as shown on the plan.

❏ 42. Go back to step one and build the left wing half over

the left wing plan.

❏ 1. Using medium CA, laminate the three die-cut 1/8" ply

center spar joiners.This complete assembly is now called
the wing joiner.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply center jig and tip jigs

together as shown.

❏ 3.Temporarily fit the wing joiner into one wing half. From

the remaining piece of 1/16" x 3" balsa used to make the
shear webs, make a LE shear web that goes to the inboard
end of the spars. Glue the web to the spars. Do the same
for the other wing half.Note: Do not glue the joiner in yet.

❏ 4. Fit the wing panels to the wing joiner and the die-cut

1/8" ply retract servo tray. Note:The retract servo tray will be
installed whether you are using retracts or fixed landing gear.

Join the Wing Panels

17

❏ 5. Position the wing on the jigs. When satisfied that the

wing is joining properly, lift it off the work surface and
liberally coat the wing joiner and spars with epoxy and
position in place. Place the wing back on the jigs and glue
the retract servo tray in and the TEs of the wing panels
together with thin CA. Weight the wing and leave it
undisturbed until the epoxy has fully cured.

❏6.Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa rib 1 in place.

If you are using fixed gear, skip to the Finish the Top of
the Wing section.

RETRACT INSTALLATION

❏ 1. Tr im the wheel wells where the struts make contact

so the retracts can lock in the “up”position.

❏ 2. Find a ser vo horn with the outer holes at 1-1/16" to

1-1/8" from each other. Mount a Screw-Lock Pushrod
Connector (GPMQ3870, not included) in both outer

holes. Hint: The standard S6-ar m Futaba servo horn
works well — just trim off the 4 arms that are not needed.

❏ 3. Mount your retract servo, using the hardware

supplied with the servo.

❏ 4. Cut 5/8" of the threads off the end of two 12"

pushrods with clevises attached (GPMQ3772, not
included). Bend to the shape as shown on the plans.

Retract Servo and Linkage Installation

18

❏5. Use a straightedge to mark a line from the center of

the servo arm to the control link on the right retract on

the right wheel well and rib 2A. Repeat for the left retract.

❏6.On the right wing half, mark on the wheel well and rib

2A where a line from the aft screw-lock to the control link
on the right retract intersects the wheel well and rib 2A.

❏ 7. On the left wing half, mark on the wheel well and rib

2A where a line from the forward screw-lock to the control
link on the left retract intersects the wheel well and rib 2A.

❏ 8. Cut 3/8" wide by 5/8" deep slots in the outside

edges of both wheel wells centered on the marks you
made in steps 5-7.

❏ 9. Cut a 1/4" deep slot between the marks on both r ibs

2A and the inside of both wheel wells.

❏ 10. Plug your retract servo into your receiver. Set it so

that the servo arm, in the “up” position, is positioned
rotated slightly as shown in the photo.Make sure it rotates
clockwise to move the gear down.

19

❏ 11. Hook up the pushrods with the gear in the “down”

position and the arm as shown. Pull the pushrods until the
gear locks down, then tighten the set screws on the
screw-lock connectors.

❏ 12. Remove the retracts and the servo from the wing.

Note: Leave the pushrods attached to the retracts to
make it easier to reinstall them later.

❏❏1. Pin the 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" balsa wing jig to the left

wing view .Align the right wing right-side-up over the left wing
view.Weight the wing in place so that all ribs are touching the

jig and the bottom sheeting is flat on the work surface.

❏❏2. Edge glue a 1/16" x 3" x 30" sheet to the LE the

same as you did for the bottom of the wing.

❏❏3.Trim the sheeting flush with the outer edge of r ib 9.

Using a straightedge, cut the sheeting down the center of
the spar.

❏❏4. Lift the LE sheeting away from the ribs and put thick

CA on the ribs and the front half of the spar. Roll the
sheeting down and weight it in place until the glue has dried.

❏❏5. Sand the TE so it is flush with the tops of the ribs.

❏❏6. Glue one of the 1/16" x 3/4" x 30" balsa TE sheets

to the TE and the ribs.Trim the TE sheet flush with rib 9.

❏ 7. Lift the wing off the plan. Repeat steps 1-6 to sheet

the left wing half, remembering to position the left wing
right-side-up over the right wing plan.

❏ 8. Use two 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets to sheet the

bottom center section of the wing. Note: Using a
straightedge aligned with the LE sheeting makes cutting the
forward piece of center sheeting easy.

❏9.Use leftover pieces from the bottom center sheeting to

support the sheeting around both aileron servo trays.

Finish the Top of the Wing

20

❏ 10. Cut openings in the bottom sheeting for the

aileron servos.

❏ 11. Use two 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets to sheet the

top center section of the wing.

❏12. Using the 1/16" x 1/4" x 30" balsa sticks, cut, fit and glue

cap strips to all of the exposed ribs, both top and bottom.

❏ 13. Cut a 1" diameter hole out of the top center sheeting

for the aileron servo leads as shown on the plan. Hint: A
quarter makes a nice template.

❏14.Sand the TE sheeting flush with the TE.

❏ 15. Drill two 1/4" holes, at the punch marks, in the die-

cut 1/8" ply forward dowel support.

❏16.Trim the ends of the shaped LE so the forward dowel

support will fit flush against the inboard ends of the LE and
tight against the retract servo tray.

❏ 17. Position the 1/4" x 3-1/2" basswood wing dowels in

place lying against the retract servo tray, then epoxy the
forward dowel support in place. DO NOT GLUE the dowels
at this time.

❏ 18. Remove the dowels and drill 1/4" holes through the

1/16" balsa shear webs.

❏ 19. Round one end of each dowel. Epoxy the dowels in

place with the rounded end forward so that the dowel
protrudes as shown on the plan.

21

❏ 20. From one piece of 30" tapered balsa aileron stock,

cut a 4" and a 2" length. Cut 4" and 2" lengths from the
other 30" aileron stock.

❏ 21. Glue the two 4" pieces to the inboard TE of each

wing panel, with the inboard ends aligned at the centerline
of the wing.

❏ 22. Glue the 2" pieces to each wing tip, aligning them

with the outboard edge.

❏ 23. Cap both wing tips with leftover 1/16" balsa sheet.

Sand to the shape of the wing.

❏24. Sand the LE so the top and bottom are flush with the

LE sheeting. Note: Be careful not to sand into the sheeting.

❏ 1. Trim both pieces of the aileron stock so they have

1/16" clearance on both ends when positioned in place.

❏2. Mark the hinge locations on the ailerons and wing and

cut the hinge slots the same as was done on the tail.

❏ 3. Bevel the LE of the ailerons to a “V” shape as shown

on the wing cross-section.

❏ 1. Place one die-cut 1/8" ply former F1 on the work

surface with the front (punch marked) side facing up. Epoxy
the second F-1 to the first with 6-minute epoxy, again with
the punch marked side facing up. Make sure the edges all
the way around are aligned. Wipe away any excess epoxy
before it cures. Note: If the firewall formers are warped,
simply clamping them together may not “cancel out” the
warps. It is best to clamp the formers to a table or a flat
board until the epoxy cures.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply F1B to the back of the F1

formers with medium CA. From now on this assembly will
be referred to as the firewall.

Assemble the Fuselage

Formers and Sides

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Hinge the Ailerons

22

❏3. Using a straightedge and a pen, draw a line horizontally

across the firewall from the left outer punch mark to the right
outer punch mark. Draw a line vertically from the top punch
mark to the bottom punch mark. The intersection of these
two lines is the center of the engine mount. Note: The center
of the engine mount is offset to compensate for the built-in
right and down thrust so that the crankshaft will exit the cowl
dead center on the fuselage centerline.

❏ 4. If you are using the included Great Planes adjustable

.40-.70 motor mount, drill the four 5/32" holes at the punch
marks as shown in the photo. Drill the two 1/4" holes and
the 3/16" hole as shown in the photo. NOTE: This throttle
exit placement works for the recommended 2-stroke
engines, clearing the exhaust, as well as 4-stroke engines
with the carburetor rotated 180-degrees.

❏ 5. Press the four supplied 6-32 blind nuts into the holes

on the back of the firewall. Gently tap the blind nuts with a
hammer to fully seat them into the firewall, then add a few
drops of thin CA around the blind nuts to secure them.

❏ 6. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply F2 doubler to the front side

of die-cut 1/8" ply F2 as shown on the plans.

❏7. Drill two 1/4" holes through the punch marks in former

F-2 and through the F2 doubler. Hint: Place the former on a
leftover piece of wood and press down as you drill the hole
so the former does not split when drilled.

❏ 8. Cover the fuse side view of the plans with Great

Planes Plan Protector. Fit and glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa
forward, center and fuse sides together over the plan as
shown in the photo.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The front side of this one former is the
side which is NOT embossed and which does NOT have
punch marks. This fuse former is the only former which is
installed with the embossing facing the tail of the model.

23

❏ 9. Cover the first fuse side with Great Planes Plan

Protector and fit and glue the second side together over the
first, making two identical fuse sides.

❏ 10. Position the fuse sides exactly as shown. Glue the

die-cut 1/8" ply left fuselage side doubler (L) to the left
fuse side. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply right fuselage side
doubler (R) to the r ight fuse side. Note: The left fuse side
doubler is the one with the short slot and the right side fuse
doubler is the one with the long slot.

❏11. Align the die-cut 1/8" balsa forward and aft fuse tops

together over the plan and pin in place. Glue the fuse top
pieces together with thin CA, making a fuse top. Note: Make
sure the fuse top is positioned upside-down so the forward
edge aligns with the aft edge of the firewall on the plan.

❏ 12. Glue former F2 ver tically in the front of its slot in the

fuse top. Be sure the F2 doubler you installed in step 6 is
facing forward.

❏ 13. Dr ill 3/16" holes in formers F4A and F5A at the

punch marks.

❏ 14. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F3A, F4A, F5A and

F6A vertically in the rear of the slots in the fuse top.

❏15. Fit the fuse sides and die-cut 1/8" balsa fuse bottom

in place.

❏16.Using a square, make sure both sides of the fuse are

perpendicular to the building surface. Using your square to
double-check that the sides are vertical before gluing each
former, glue formers F6A, F5A, F4A, F3A and F2 to the
fuse sides, top and bottom. Note: Do not glue forward of F2
until instructed to do so.

❏ 17. Starting at F2 and working aft, glue the fuse sides to

the fuse top.

24

❏18.Using 6-minute epoxy, glue the three die-cut 1/8" ply bolt

plates together to make what is now called the bolt block.

❏19.Epoxy the bolt block securely in place in the fuse.

❏ 20. Sand a taper on the bottom edge of the die-cut 1/8"

ply rear saddle former. Fit it in place, adjusting the taper
until a good fit is achieved.Glue the former in place.

❏ 21. Sand the front of the aft fuse bottom to the angle of

the rear wing saddle former.

❏ 1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply belly pan sides and belly

pan front former perpendicular to the belly pan bottom.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply belly pan aft former and

wing bolt plate in place as shown in the photo.NOTE: The

punch marks in the wing bolt plate must be facing down so
that they will be visible through the belly pan bottom when
the belly pan is upside-down.

❏ 1. Sand the entire wing saddle area lightly until the fuse

side doublers and fuse sides are flush.

❏ 2. Tr ial fit the wing on the fuse. It may be necessary to

enlarge the holes in F2 slightly to get the wing to fit
correctly.

❏ 3. Stick a T-pin through the center of the aft end of the

fuselage bottom. Tie a string to the T-pin. Pull the string to
the TE of the wing tip and put a piece of masking tape on

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage

Assemble the Belly Pan

25

A

A

A = A

the string. Mark an arrow on the tape, then slide the tape on
the string so the arrow aligns with the wing tip. Swing the
string over to the other tip and see if it aligns with the same
point. If necessary, shift the wing and mark the location of
the tip by adjusting the position of the tape on the string. Do
this until the arrow on the string aligns with both tips.

❏ 4. Now that the wing is accurately positioned, fit the belly

pan to the fuselage tightly against the wing. When it is
positioned and fitted properly, use a few drops of thin CA to
tack glue the belly pan sides to the wing. Be careful to neither
move the wing nor glue the wing or belly pan to the fuselage.

❏ 5. Remove the wing from the fuselage. Use medium CA

to glue the rest of the belly pan to the wing at all contact
points. HINT: Applying the CA from the inside of the belly
pan helps minimize excess CA outside of the belly pan
which would have to be sanded.

❏ 6. Position the wing back on the fuse after all CA is fully

cured. Holding the wing fir mly in place on the fuse and
using the punch marks in the wing bolt plate as a guide,
drill two 13/64" holes through the wing bolt plates, the wing
and the bolt block (in the fuselage), keeping the drill
perpendicular to the wing bolt plates and centered in the
holes in the belly pan bottom.

❏ 7. Remove the wing from the fuselage and re-drill both

holes in the wing only to 17/64".

❏8. Use a 1/4-20 tap to cut threads in the bolt block only (in

the fuselage).HINT: A cordless drill makes a great tap driver.

❏9. Harden the threads in the bolt block with thin CA, then

re-tap the threads after the glue is completely dry.

❏❏10. Mount the wing to the fuse with both wing bolts.

Fit the paper tube through the belly pan bottom and
around the head of the right wing bolt, flush against the
wing bolt plates. Glue the paper tube to the belly pan
bottom and wing bolt plate with medium CA. NOTE: Be
careful not to glue the wing bolts to the wing.

❏❏11. Using a razor saw, cut off the paper tube flush

with the belly pan bottom.

❏ 12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 to mount the paper tube

over the other wing bolt. Sand the paper tubes flush with
the belly pan bottom.

❏13.Remove the wing from the fuse and set aside.

26

❏ 1. Remove the fuse from the work surface. Remove the

pins from the fuse top.

❏ 2. Fit the firewall tabs into the slots in the fuse sides.

When satisfied that the firewall can be put in place easily,
epoxy it in place. Hint: Note the right thrust built into the
firewall installation.

❏ 3. Double-check all glue joints of the entire fuselage.

Reinforce with medium CA as needed.

❏ 4. Cut the three 3/16" x 36" pushrod tubes to 20" long.

Roughen the outside of the tubes with sandpaper so glue will
stick securely. Note: There are four holes in the formers and
fuse sides.The fourth holes are for an optional antenna tube.
If you choose this option, you will need to install an additional
3/16" x 36" pushrod tube like the other three (not included).

❏ 5. Fit the two elevator pushrod tubes in the upper holes

in F4A, F5A, F6A and the fuse sides, leaving a small
amount of excess extending out the fuse sides. Fit the
rudder pushrod similarly into the lower right hole.

❏ 6. Glue the pushrod tubes to the three formers with

medium CA.

❏7.You're about to mix epoxy to work on the aft end of the

fuselage. Before you do so, test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply stab
saddle. Lightly sand as needed for a perfect fit.Temporarily

remove the stab saddle.

❏ 8. Mix 30-minute epoxy and use some of it to install the

stab saddle.

Install the Firewall, Pushrod

Tubes and Tank Hatch

27

❏ 9. Mix the remaining epoxy with microballoons and

epoxy the pushrod tubes to the slots in the fuse sides.
Completely fill the slots with the microballoons/epoxy mix.

❏10.Allow the epoxy in both areas to cure completely.

❏ 11. After the epoxy has cured, use a bar sander and

150-grit sandpaper to sand the outer pushrod tubes and
filler flush with the fuselage sides.

❏ 12. From a 1/4" x 3/8" x 4" basswood stick, cut four 3/8"

long tank hatch supports.

❏ 13. Glue one tank hatch suppor t in each corner of the

tank compartment, aligned with the bottom edge of the
fuse doubler.

❏ 14. Temporarily position the die-cut 1/8" ply tank hatch

over the compartment. Dr ill a 1/16" hole through each of
the corners of the tank hatch, keeping the holes centered
on the support blocks.

❏ 15. Temporarily mount the tank hatch to the fuse with

four #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws.

❏16. Remove the tank hatch and harden the threads in the

blocks with thin CA.Note: Be careful not to fill the holes with
CA — just wet them with enough CA to harden the threads.

❏ 1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa instrument panel (IP)

vertically to the fuse top.

❏2.From a 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the

three front deck center stringers into the firewall and IP.

Build the Fuselage Front Deck

and T urtle Deck

28

❏ 3. From a 1/4" x 3/8" x 18" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue

the two front deck side stringers.

❏ 4. Round the side stringers to match the firewall and the

instrument panel.

❏ 5. From a 3/32" x 2-3/4" x 24" balsa sheet, cut two 6"

sheets. Edge glue these two sheets together, making one
3/32" x 5-1/2" x 6" sheet. Set the remaining 12" piece aside.

❏ 6. Wet the outside of the 5-1/2" x 6" sheet with water or

a water/ammonia mix. Glue it to the firewall, instrument
panel and stringers.

❏ 7. Shape the sides of the sheeting so it blends with the

fuse side. Sand the front edge flush with the firewall. Sand
the TE flush with the instrument panel.

❏ 8. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa formers F3B, F4B, F5B

and F6B vertically to the fuse top.

❏ 9. Position and glue the two 1/8" x 1/8" x 24" balsa

gluing stringers to the fuse top, with one end butting
against F6B and the other end extending beyond F3B.Trim
the 1/8" x 1/8" stringers flush with the front of F3B.

❏ 10. Fit the two 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" balsa turtle deck top

stringers in the slots in F3B, F4B and F5B.Glue the aft end to

the front edge of F6B as shown.Glue the stringers to F3B, F4B
and F5B.Trim the front end flush with the front of former F3B.

29

❏❏11. Edge glue a 3/32" x 2-3/4" x 24" balsa sheet to

the fuse top, with the forward edge extending beyond F3B
and the aft edge extending past F6B.

❏❏12. Wet the outside of the sheeting. Use thick CA to

glue the sheeting to the formers and the top stringer.

❏❏13.T rim the sheeting flush with the top of the top stringer .
❏ 14. Repeat steps 11 through 13 to sheet the other side

of the turtle deck.

❏ 15. Sand the tops of the sheeting flush with the tops of

the formers.

❏ 16.Tr im the front of the sheeting flush with F3B. Trim the

aft end of the sheeting flush with F6B.

❏ 17. Trim the aft end of the 1/8" x 1/4" top str ingers so

there is at least a 1/4" gap between them, allowing
sufficient space for the fin.

❏ 18. From a 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 36" balsa stick, cut one 8" fin

filler block.Tack glue the fin filler block where the fin will be

located, aligning the TE of F6B and centered on the slot in
the middle of F6B.

❏ 19. Glue the remaining 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 28" balsa turtle

deck top to the top of the turtle deck sheeting and the tops
of the formers.Note: Do not glue it to the fin filler block.

❏20 Trim the front of the turtle deck top flush with the front

of F3B.

30

❏ 21. Cut the 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 15" balsa stick in half, making

two 7-1/2" fin fillets. Tack glue these fillets to the fuse top
and the fin filler block.

****Time to make some dust!****

❏ 22. Shape the tur tle deck top to the round shape of the

turtle deck, using the cross sections as a reference. Do the
same for the fin fillets and the fin filler block, blending
everything smoothly. Hint: Start your shaping with a razor
plane, then use a course sand paper (around 100 grit), then
gradually work with finer paper until you are using 400 grit
to get a really nice final shape that's cleanly sanded.

❏23. Final sand the rest of the fuse, being sure to clean up

any rough spots or CA smears that will show through your
covering work. Use balsa filler as necessary to fix any small
nicks or dings that happened “m ysteriously”during assembly.

❏ 24. Cut the fin fillets and the fin filler block from the fuse.

Separate the fin fillets from the fin filler block.

❏ 1. If you have not already done so, make sure the stab

and fin are final sanded to a smooth finish, as it will be a little
more difficult to do so after they are glued to the fuselage.

❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuselage. Center the stab in the

stab slot. Use a string from the center of the firewall to align
the stab the same as was done with the wing.

❏ 3. Stand about six to ten feet behind the model and see

if the stab is parallel with the wing. If necessary, sand the
stab base with a thin sanding block until the stab is parallel
with the wing.

❏ 4. Epoxy the stab in place, double-checking the

alignment. Wipe any excess epoxy from the stab with a
paper towel and alcohol. Hint: After the epoxy has cured,
you may remove the wing from the fuse and set it aside if
you prefer to make the model easier to handle.

❏ 5. Fit the fin in place and check that it is perpendicular to

the stab with a square. If it is not per pendicular, small
adjustments can be made by sanding a taper on the fin post,

Mount the Stabilizer and Fin

31

B

B

B = B

allowing it to tilt to either side. When satisfied with the
alignment of the fin, glue it in place with thin CA.Hint: Proper
alignment of your fin to your stab is critical to proper flight
performance, so take your time to be sure it is just right.

❏6.Use medium CA to glue the fin fillets in place.
❏ 7. Use a small amount of filler to fill the gap at the front

of the fin.

❏1. Cut the “spreader bars”from the supplied Great Planes

engine mount, then use a hobby knife to remove any
flashing leftover from the molding process so that the halves
fit together well.

❏ 2. Temporarily attach the engine mount to the firewall

with four 6-32 x 1" bolts and #6 flat washers.Do not tighten
the screws all the way, because you still need to adjust
the mount.

❏ 3. Place the engine on the mount and slide the halves in

or out until the engine fits properly. Position the mount so
the molded-in “tick marks” are equally spaced from the
horizontal centerline you drew on the firewall. When the
engine mount is adjusted and positioned, tighten the
mounting screws.

Note: If you are using a larger engine than the .46 it may be
necessary to sand the left fuse side flush with the firewall,
so that the mount fits.

❏ 4. Position the engine on the mount so the drive washer

(or the back of the spinner) is 5" away from the firewall and
clamp in place.

❏ 5. Use the Great Planes Dead Center

™

Engine Mount

Hole Locator (GPMR8130) to mark the locations of the

bolt holes. Remove the engine from the mount and drill four
7/64" holes. Tap the four holes with a 6-32 tap. Mount the
engine with the four 6-32 x 1" socket head bolts.

Mount the Engine

32

❏1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply servo tray in place in the fuse.

❏ 2. Select one of the remaining grey outer pushrod tubes.

Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the outside of the tube
so glue will stick. Slide it through its hole in the firewall, until
it protrudes 1/8" past F3A. Glue it into the firewall. Cut the
pushrod outer tube 1/4" in front of the firewall.

❏ 3. Mount the throttle, elevator and rudder servos, using

the hardware supplied with the radio.

❏ 4. Bend and cut a 36" throttle pushrod wire to fit your

engine installation, using the drawing on the fuselage plan
as a guide. Install a nylon clevis and insert the pushrod
through the guide tube. Make adjustments to the bends in
the wire so the pushrod aligns with the carburetor arm on
the engine, then temporarily connect the clevis to the
carburetor arm. Temporarily mount the muffler and confirm
that the muffler will not interfere with or touch the throttle
pushrod. Make adjustments to the bends in the wire
if necessary.

❏ 5. Temporarily install the brass Screw Lock Pushrod

Connector into the throttle servo arm, then adjust the bend in
the throttle pushrod if necessary and fit it into the connector.
Remove the engine mount with the engine still attached.

❏ 6. Thread a nylon clevis about 20 turns onto the end of

one of the 36" pushrods, making one elevator pushrod
assembly. Remove the backing plate from a nylon control
horn and connect the horn to the clevis in the outer hole.
Make another identical elevator pushrod assembly from
another 36" pushrod.

❏ 7. Slide the elevator hinges into the elevator halves and

then into the stab.DO NOT glue the elevators to the stab at
this time.

❏ 8. Insert both elevator pushrods into the upper pushrod

tubes. Position the control horns on the elevators as shown

Install the Servos and

Make the Pushrods

33

Correct Incorrect

in the sketch and on the plan. Use a ballpoint pen to mark
the location of the control horn mounting holes and drill
3/32" holes at the marks. Temporarily mount the control
horns to the elevators with the backing plates and 2-56
x 5/8" screws.

❏ 9. With the elevator servo in place, the servo arm

perpendicular to the pushrod and the control surfaces in
neutral position, use a felt tip pen to mark where one
pushrod crosses the mounting holes in the servo arm.

❏ 10. Disconnect the clevis from the control horn on the

wire you marked. Make a 90-degree bend at the mark you
made. Temporarily install a nylon Faslink on this pushrod,
then cut the wire so it slightly protrudes out of the Faslink.
Hint: If you prefer to bend and cut the pushrod outside the
fuselage, remove the pushrod, then make the 90-degree
bends and cut the wire. Unscrew the clevis and reinstall the
pushrod in the guide tube from the front, then screw the
clevis back on.

❏ 11. Connect the bent pushrod to the ser vo with the

Faslink.If necessary, enlarge the hole in the servo arm with
a 5/64" drill bit (or a #48 bit for precision). Cut the second
pushrod 1/8" behind the Faslink (being sure the elevator
half is neutral).

❏ 12. While keeping both elevators centered, connect the

two elevator pushrods to each other with two 5/32" wheel
collars and 6-32 x 1/4" hex head cap screws as shown in
the photo. We recommend using thread locking compound
on the cap screw threads.

❏ 13. Temporarily mount the rudder with the hinges the

same as you did with the elevators.DO NOT GLUE.

❏ 14. Mark the location of the tail gear wire on the rudder

and the nylon tail gear bearing on the fuselage. Remove the
rudder and drill a 7/64" hole in the leading edge of the
rudder at the mark you made for the tail gear wire. Cut a
groove in the LE of the rudder for the nylon tail gear bearing.
Test fit the tail gear wire in the rudder.

❏15. Mount the control horn to the r udder, trapping the tail

gear wire between the screws.

❏ 16. Cut a slot in the aft edge of the fuse (the fin post) at

the marks you made for the nylon tail gear bearing.
Without using any glue, join the rudder to the fin with the
tail gear bearing and hinges.

❏ 17. Hook up the rudder pushrod the same as you did

with the first elevator.

❏ 18. Mount the aileron servos in the wing with the screws

provided with the radio.

34

❏20. Locate the control horn on the aileron using a square so

that the pushrod will be perpendicular to the hinge line. Mount
the control horn and back plate with the 2-56 x 5/8" screws.

❏ 21. Screw the two remaining clevises twenty turns onto

two 12" pushrods.

❏ 22. Connect the clevis to the control horn. Center the

aileron and the servo arm. Mark the pushrod where it
crosses the servo arm. Bend the pushrod and connect it to
the servo arm with a Faslink. Trim the excess wire that
sticks out past the Faslink.

❏1.Trim the cowl halves along the cut lines provided.Note:

Save the strips that are cut off for joining the co wl halves.

❏2. Use your bar sander to carefully true the edges where

the halves will be joined.

❏ 3. Test fit the cowl halves and make adjustments where

necessary for the best possible fit.

❏ 4. Join the halves and carefully glue them together with

thin CA. Note: Do not use CA accelerator on the ABS plastic
as it may develop cracks and/or keep the paint from adhering.

❏ 5. Glue leftover plastic strips to both halves overlapping

the center joint.

❏ 5. Use your hobby knife or a rotary tool with a sanding

drum to clean up the crankshaft opening and air inlet.

❏ 6. If you are using the O.S. .46FX, cut along the cut lines

provided for the needle, glow plug, muffler and muffler
screws.If you are using a different engine, working carefully,
trim and fit the cowl to your specific engine.

❏ 7. Mount the engine mount with engine to the firewall.

Align the cowl with the 2-1/4" spinner.Attach the cowl to the
fuse with four #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws.

Assemble the Cowl

35

❏ 8. Remove the cowl and engine mount with engine.

Harden the threads in the fuse with thin CA.

❏ 9. Use Bondo or other filler on all seams and blemishes.

When dry, wet sand with 400-grit sand paper until you are
satisfied it is prepared for paint. Hint: You may want to
begin the process of priming and wet sanding your cowl
now so it is ready for paint when you are.

Do not confuse this procedure with “checking the C.G.”
which will be discussed later in the manual.

An airplane that is laterally balanced will track better during
aerobatic maneuvers. Taking your time with this procedure
will make a difference in your models' all around
performance from spins to loops, from inverted flight to
slow speed handling.

❏ 1. With the wing level and attached to the model (and

the engine and muffler installed), lift the model by the
propeller shaft and the aft bottom of the fuse. This may
require an assistant. Do this several times.

❏ 2. The wing that consistently drops indicates the heavy

side.Balance the model by adding weight to the light wing tip .

❏ 1. If you've hooked up the pushrods to the servos before

covering the model, disconnect and remove all the
pushrods and remove the hinges and control horns from
the ailerons, elevators and rudder. Remove the engine
mount and any other hardware you may have installed.

❏ 2. Most of the model should be rough-sanded by now

with all the tabs and rough edges sanded even. Fill all
dents, seams, low spots and notches with HobbyLite

™

balsa-colored filler.

❏3. After the filler has dried, use progressively finer grades

of sandpaper to even all the edges and seams and smooth
all surfaces. Remove all balsa dust from the model with
compressed air or a vacuum with a brush and a tack cloth.

COVERING TECHNIQUE

Cover the model with Top Flite MonoKote Film. Here are a
few suggestions to gaining a really prof essional appear ance:

Since the tips of the elevators and stab are squared off, it is
easiest to cover the tips before you cover the tops and
bottoms.Do the same for the fin, rudder and the wing.

Before you cover the fuselage, first apply 1/4" wide strips of
MonoKote film in the bottom corners of the stab and fuse and
strips which are oversized by a 1/4" to cover the fin/fillet/stab
transitions. Then proceed to cover the fin and stab with pre­cut pieces that meet in the corners and overlap the 1/4"
strips. Never cut the covering on the stab and fin after it

has been applied except around the leading and trailing
edges at the tips. Modelers who do this may cut through the

covering and into the stab or fin. This will weaken the
structure to a point where it may fail during flight.

Some modelers drill a small hole in each stab rib and the
trailing edge of the stab to allow expanded gas to exit while
heating the MonoKote film. This keeps the covering from
“ballooning” and allows you to securely bond it to the entire
stab.The same thing can be done with the fin and rudder.

Since the ailerons are long “strip” ailerons some modelers
prefer to cover the top and bottom with one strip of
MonoKote film by covering the bottom first, then wrapping it
around the leading edge over the top.

PAINTING

After the model is covered, use fuelproof model paint, 30­minute epoxy thinned with alcohol or finishing resin to coat
areas that may be exposed to raw fuel or exhaust residue.
These are areas such as the firewall, front and back of the
belly pan, fuse openings for the wing and fuse doubler and
the tank hatch.

Top Flite LustreKote®fuelproof paint is recommended for
painting the ABS cowling. At least one coat of LustreKote
primer is highly recommended to fill all the small scratches left
from sanding as well as small pin holes in any filler you
applied.Wet sand between coats with 400-g rit sandpaper and
apply a second coat of primer if necessary. If the parts are
primed properly , only one coat of color should be required.

Finish the Model

Prepare the Model for Covering

Balance the Model Laterally

36

Painting Butyrate Canopies With

Top Flite LustreKote

®

Top Flite LustreKote is a high quality, fuelproof paint that
perfectly matches Top Flite MonoKote. The paint is well
suited to putting a high quality finish on ABS but does
have a tendency to curl materials such as styrene and
butyrate.

Do not paint the clear butyrate canopy or styrene with
LustreKote directly from the can. It can cause the
plastic to curl. We recommend Formula-U for painting
the clear canopy directly from the can, or the
following procedure can be used for successful
results with LustreKote.

The following procedure allows you to airbrush LustreKote
with good results. The recommended procedure requires
that the paint be sprayed into a jar or plastic mixing cup.

This is best done by spraying the paint through a small
brass tube or straw into the jar. For best results spray no
more than 1/2 oz. of paint into the jar at a time. As the
propellant “boils off” it will cause the paint to foam slightly.
Leave the paint in the open container, stirring every 15
minutes until no more foam appears on the surface of the
paint and the paint has warmed to room temperature.This
allows the propellant and some of the thinner to evaporate
out of the paint. Depending on the amount of paint in the
jar, this process may take about 1 hour.

After allowing the propellant to boil off, use an airbrush to
spray paint the canopy. If the paint is too thick to spray
properly, it can be thinned with a small amount of lacquer
thinner. Do not thin with more than 40% thinner. In general
about 10% thinner will adequately thin the paint for
airbrushing.The paint can also be brushed on, but brushing
will not produce the high quality finish of spraying.

If you have any doubt about the material you are painting
we suggest that you try painting on a small piece of
leftover material to be sure that you are satisfied with the
end result.

❏ 1. Start with the elevators and stab. Cut the covering

from the hinge slots – don't just slit the covering but remove
a small strip the size of the hinge slot.

❏2. Drill a 3/32" hole 1/2" deep in the center of each hinge

slot. A high speed Moto-Tool works best for this. If you use
a regular drill, clean out the hinge slots with your #11 blade.

❏ 3. Without using any glue, fit the hinges in the elevators

or stab. Do not glue the hinges yet. As you join the
elevators to the stab, confirm that the hinges are equally
inserted in the elevators and the stab. Inser t a small pin in
the center of the hinges to keep them centered.

Join the Control Surfaces

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS

37

CUT THE COVERING

AWAY FROM THE SLOT

DRILL A 3/32" HOLE

1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER

OF HINGE SLOT

TEMPORARY PIN

TO KEEP HINGE

CENTERED

❏ 4. Remove the pin and add 6 drops of thin CA to the

center of all the hinges on both the top and the bottom.

Do not use accelerator on any of the hinges. Do not glue
the hinges with anything but thin CA and do not attempt
to glue one half of the hinge at a time with medium or
thick CA. They will not be properly secured and the
controls could separate while the model is in flight.

❏ 5. Join the rudder to the fin with the hinges and use 30-

minute epoxy to simultaneously glue the tail gear wire in
the rudder and the tail gear bearing in the fuse. Do not
glue the nylon bearing to the rudder. Glue the hinges in
position with thin CA.

❏ 6. Prepare the hinge slots in the ailerons the same way

you did for the tail surfaces.Glue the hinges with thin CA.

❏ 1. Assemble the fuel tank per the manufacturer's

instructions. Install in the fuse with approximately 12" of fuel
line each for the pickup and the vent lines on the tank.

❏2.Install a 1" tail wheel with a 3/32" wheel collar.
❏ 3. Reinstall your retracts or fixed gear in the manner you

trial fitted them earlier.

❏ 5. Install the elevator, r udder and throttle pushrods, then

install the control horns and hook them up the same way
you did earlier.

❏ 6. Wrap the receiver and battery pack in at least 1/4" of

foam rubber, then test fit them in the location shown on the
plan. Do not per manently mount your receiver or battery
pack until you have verified the C.G.(page 39).

❏7. Mount the receiver switch in a convenient location that

will not interfere with the servos and pushrods inside
the fuselage.

❏ 8. Route the receiver antenna. On our prototype we

used the fourth pushrod tube to route the antenna to the
rear of the fuse, then taped it to the fuse.

❏ 9. Some modelers prefer to cushion the wing with wing

seating foam tape on the wing saddle of the fuselage.Apply
1/16" seating tape on the wing saddle of the fuselage if
you choose.

❏10. Prepare the engine compartment for installing the cowl

by connecting the fuel lines, installing a fueling valve (not
provided), mounting the muffler and connecting the throttle
pushrod. Install the cowl, then mount the spinner back plate,
prop, prop washer and prop nut.Install the spinner.

❏ 1. Place the canopy on the fuselage in the location

shown on the plan, then temporarily hold it in position with
tape. Hint: We chose to paint the canopy and thus avoid
the added weight of a pilot. If you wish to select and install
a pilot, do so now. You may want to mount it on a small
balsa base, which can be glued to the MonoKote cockpit
covering without additional weight.

❏ 2. Use a felt tip pen to accurately trace the canopy

outline onto the MonoKote film covering.

❏ 3. Using the lines you just drew as a reference, glue the

canopy to the fuselage using rubber bands or masking tape
to hold it in position until the glue dries. We recommend a
glue specifically formulated for gluing on canopies such as
Pacer “Formula 560” canopy glue. Formula 560 is like
regular white glue (aliphatic resin) in that it dries clear and
cleans up with water but sticks extremely well to butyrate
and dries overnight (to allow for accurate positioning).

Attach the Canopy

Install the Hardware

ASSEMBLE, THEN APPLY 6 DROPS

38

OF THIN CA TO CENTER

OF HINGE, ON BOTH SIDES

THE CA WICKS

ALONG THE "TUNNELS"

TO THE ENTIRE

HINGE SURFACE

NOTE: The balance and control throws for the Tracer
have been extensively tested. We are confident that
they represent the settings at which the Tracer flies
best. Please set up your model to the specifications
listed above. If, after you become comfortable with your
Tracer, you would like to adjust the throws to suit your
tastes, that's fine. Too much throw can force the plane
into a stall, so remember,“more is not better.”

NOTE: This section is VERY important and must NOT
be omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.

❏ 1. Accurately mark the balance point on the top of the

wing on both sides of the fuselage. Use thin strips of tape
or a felt tip pen to make the marks. The balance point
(C.G.) is located 5-3/4" [146mm] back from the leading
edge at the fuselage as shown in the sketch and on the
wing plan. (Hint: Reference the full-size wing plan to help
you locate the proper balance point.)

This is the balance point at which your model should
balance for your first flights. After initial trim flights and
when you become more acquainted with your Tracer, you
may wish to experiment by shifting the balance up to 1/4"
forward or back to change the flying characteristics.
Moving the balance forward may improve the smoothness
and stability but the model may then require more speed for
takeoff and make it more difficult to slow for landing.Moving
the balance aft makes the model more agile with a lighter,
snappier “feel” and often improves knife-edge capabilities.
In any case, please start at the location we recommend

and do not at any time balance your model outside the
recommended range.

❏ 2.With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the

model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, hold
the model upside-down with the stabilizer level.

❏ 3. Lift the model at the balance point. If the tail drops

when you lift, the model is “tail heavy” and you must add
weight* to the nose to balance the model. If the nose
drops, it is “nose heavy” and you must add weight* to the
tail to balance the model. NOTE: Nose weight may be
easily installed by using a “spinner weight” or gluing lead
weights to the firewall. Tail weight may be added by using
Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead weights. Later if
the balance is O.K., you can open the fuse bottom and glue
the weights in permanently.

*If possible, first attempt to balance the model by changing
the position of the receiver battery and receiver. If you are
unable to obtain good balance by doing so, then it will be
necessary to add weight to the nose or tail to achieve the
proper balance point.

Balance Y our Model

We recommend the following control surface throws:
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the

elevators, rudder and ailerons. Adjust the position of the
pushrods at the control horns and servo horns to adjust the
amount of throw. You may also use the ATV's if your
transmitter has them, but the mechanical linkages should still
be set so the ATV's are near 100% for the best servo
resolution (smoothest, most proportional movement).

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR: 7/16" up 5/16" up

7/16" down 5/16" down

RUDDER: 2-1/2" right 1-1/2" right

2-1/2" left 1-1/2" left

AILERONS: 1/4" up 3/16" up

1/4" down 3/16" down

NOTE: If your radio does not have dual r ates, then set the control
surfaces to move between the high rate and low rate throws.

Set the Control Throws

39

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

Balance the plane at 5-3/4" (146mm)
back from the LE against the fuselage.

Great Planes CG Machine

❏ 4. Once you have achieved your desired C.G.,

permanently secure your battery pack and receiver in their
current location.We recommend securing your receiver and
battery pack to pieces of leftover ply, using Velcro®strap so
that the battery and receiver can be easily accessed for
maintenance.

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should always charge your
transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go
flying and at other times as recommended by the radio
manufacturer.

Balance your propellers carefully before flying. An
unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of
vibration. Not only may engine mounting screws vibrate out,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration may
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run lean or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

Since you have chosen the Tracer we assume that you are
an experienced modeler. Therefore, you should already
know about AMA chartered flying fields and other safe
places to fly. If, for some reason you are a relatively
inexperienced modeler and have not been informed, we
strongly suggest that the best place to fly is an AMA
chartered club field. Ask the AMA or your local hobby shop
dealer if there is a club in your area and join.Club fields are
set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing safer and
more enjoyable. The AMA address and telephone number
is in the front of this manual.

If a club and flying site are not available, find a large, grassy
area at least 6 miles away from houses, buildings and
streets and any other R/C radio operation like R/C boats
and R/C cars.A schoolyard may look inviting but is too close
to people, power lines and possible r adio interference.

If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C
models, ask an experienced modeler to inspect your radio
installation and confirm that all the control surfaces respond
correctly to transmitter inputs. The engine operation must
also be checked by confirming that the engine idles reliably
and transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power and
maintains full power indefinitely. The engine must be “broken­in” on the ground by running it for at least two tanks of fuel.

Follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations for
break-in. Make sure all screws remain tight, that the hinges

are secure and that the prop is on tight.

Whenever you go to the flying field, check the operational
range of the radio before the first flight of the day. First,
make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel).With
your transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and
transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet
away from the model and still have control.While you work
the controls have a helper stand by your model and tell you
what the control surfaces are doing.

Repeat this test with the engine running at various speeds
with a helper holding the model. If the control surfaces are
not always responding correctly, do not fly! Find and correct
the problem first. Look for loose servo connections or
corrosion, loose bolts that may cause vibration, a defective
on/off switch, low battery voltage or a defective cell, a
damaged receiver antenna, or a receiver crystal that may
have been damaged from a previous crash.

Range Check Your Radio

Ground Check the Model

Find a Safe Place to Fly

Balance the Propeller

Charge the Batteries

At this time check all connections including servo arm
screws, Faslinks, clevises and servo cords. Make sure you
have installed the nylon retainer on the Screw-Lock
Pushrod Connector on the throttle pushrod at the servo arm
and the silicone retainers on all the clevises.

PRE-FLIGHT

40

NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that the engine
exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide.

Do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;

the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away

from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils and screw drivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter ; follow instructions
supplied with the starter or stick. Make certain the glow
plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or
otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine causing a fire.

To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel
line or follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations. Do
not use hands, fingers or any body part to try to stop the
engine.Do not throw anything into the prop of a running engine.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airpor t operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying in
the proximity of full scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

4. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

5. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind)

RADIO CONTROL

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a ne w or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit
or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the F ederal Communications Commission.

The Great Planes Tracer is a great flying pattern trainer that
flies smoothly and predictably, yet is highly aerobatic. The

FLUTTER CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C
AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any unusual sounds,
such as a low-pitched “buzz”, this may indicate control
surface “flutter”. Because flutter can quickly destroy
components of your airplane, any time you detect flutter you
must immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane!
Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this may indicate
which surface fluttered) and make sure all pushrod linkages
are slop-free. If it fluttered once, it will probably flutter again
under similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the
slop or flexing in the linkages. Here are some things which
can result in flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
control horns solidly; Sloppy fit of clevis pin in horn; Elasticity
present in flexible plastic pushrods; Side-play of pushrod in
guide tube caused by tight bends; Sloppy fit of Z-bend in
servo arm; Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator
joiner wire or aileron torque rod; Excessive flexing of aileron,
caused by using too soft balsa; Excessive “play” or
“backlash” in servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting.

FLYING

AMA Safety Code (Excerpt)

Engine Safety Precautions

41

Tracer does not, however, possess the self-recovery
characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should only be
flown by experienced R/C pilots.This plane is fully capable of
performing a full range of aerobatics - from simple loops and
rolls to impressive horizon-to-horizon slow rolls.The Tracer is
limited only by your abilities and imagination.Hav e Fun!

Takeoff on “low” rates if you have dual rates on your
transmitter–especially if you are taking off in a crosswind.
For all models it is good practice to gain as much speed as
the length of the runway will permit before lifting off. This
will give you a safety margin in case the engine quits.When
you initially advance the throttle and the tail begins to lift,
the Tracer will begin to turn to the left (due to the torque of
the engine–a characteristic of all taildraggers). Be prepared
for this by applying sufficient right rudder to keep the Tracer
running straight down the middle of the runway (or flying
field). The left turning tendency will decrease as the plane
picks up speed. Be sure to allow the tail to rise off the
ground before lifting the model into the air. Depending on
the surface you are taking off from, you will need to apply
little or no up elevator until flying speed is reached. Don't
hold the tail on the ground with too much up elevator, as the
Tracer will become airborne prematurely and may stall.
When the plane has gained enough flying speed to safely
lift off, gradually and smoothly apply up elevator and allow
the model to climb at a shallow angle (do not yank the
model off the ground into a steep climb!).

We recommend that you take it easy with your Tracer for
the first several flights, gradually “getting acquainted” with
this great pattern trainer as your engine gets fully broken in.
If you feel as though you have your hands full, keep this
one thing in mind: pull back on the throttle stick to slow
the model down. This will make everything happen a little
slower and allow yourself time to think and react. Add and
practice one maneuver at a time, learning how the Tracer
behaves in each.For smooth flying and normal maneuvers,
use the low rate settings as listed on page 39. High rate
elevator may be required for crisp snap rolls and spins.

Sometime well before it's time to land you should climb your
Tracer to a safe altitude and cut the throttle to an idle and
check out the model's low speed characteristics. Do this a
few times so you know what to expect upon landing.

When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
approach. Keep a few clicks of power on until you are over

the runway threshold. For your first few landings, plan to
land slightly faster than stall speed. Later, with a little
practice you will find you can make slow 3-point landings.
You'll notice that this pattern trainer model lands more like a
typical sport model, to take the scare out of the ‘glides
forever' behavior of most pattern aircraft.

Have a ball! But always remember to think about your
next move and plan each maneuver before you do it.
Impulsively “jamming the sticks” without any thought
is what gets most fliers in trouble rather than lack of
flying skill.

Now that you're feeling comfortable with taking off and
landing your Tracer, the following maneuver sequences and
trimming information will be of great benefit to you in getting
your Tracer flying at its absolute finest, as well as
challenging your own skills and giving you something fun to
do on the flight line!

NOTE: The sequences provided are a great starting point
whether you are thinking about flying pattern (be sure to
join NSRCA and acquire the current year's sequences) or
just looking for something different to fly.

The following is an excerpt from the Academy of Model
Aeronautics Competition Regulations 1999-2001
handbook. Note: (U) means upwind; (D) means downwind.

SPORTSMAN PATTERN MANEUVERS

1.Takeoff (U)

2. Straight Flight Out (U)

3. Half Reverse Cuban Eight

4. Straight Flight Back (D)

5. Stall Turn without Rolls (U)

Pattern Flying

Landing

Flying

Takeoff

42

6. Immelmann T urn (U)

7. Split “S”

8.Three (3) Inside Loops (U)

9. One (1) Horizontal Roll (D)

10. Landing (U)

FLIGHT TRIMMING

Note: The following article has been reprinted in part for

future reference and also as a guide for your flight instructor
or experienced flying partner to help you with trimming your

model. If fur ther information is required, please contact your
local hobby dealer, local flying club or call Great Planes at
[phone].

A model is not a static object. Unlike a car, which you can
only hunt left or right on the road (technically, a car does
yaw in corners and pitches when the brakes are applied), a
plane moves through that fluid we call air in all directions
simultaneously. The plane may look like it’s going forward,
but it could also be yawing slightly, slipping a little and
simultaneously climbing or diving a bit! The controls
interact. Yaw can be a rudder problem, a lateral balance
problem or an aileron rigging problem.We must make many
flights, with minor changes between each, to isolate and
finally correct the problem.

The chart accompanying this article is intended to ser ve
as a handy field reference when trimming your model.
Laminate it in plastic and keep it in you flight box. You just
might have need to consult it at the next contest! The chart
is somewhat self-explanatory, but we will briefly run through
the salient points.

First, we are assuming that the model has been C.G.
balanced according to the manufacturer’s directions.
There’s nothing sacred about that spot — frankly, it only
reflects the balance point where a prototype model handled
the way the guy who designed it thought it should. If your
model’s wing has a degree more or less of incidence, then
the whole balance formula is incorrect for you. But, it’s a
good ballpark place to start.

The second assumption is that the model has been
balanced laterally. Wrap a strong string or monofilament
around the prop shaft behind the spinner, then tie the other
end to the tail wheel or to a screw driven into the bottom of
the aft fuse. Make the string into a bridle har ness and
suspend the entire model inverted (yes, with the wing on!).
If the right wing always drops, sink some screws or lead
into the left wing tip, etc.You may be surprised to find out
how much lead is needed.

At this point the model is statically trimmed. It’s only a
starting point, so don’t be sur prised if you wind up changing
it all. One other cr itical feature is that the ailerons must
have their hinge gap sealed. If shoving some Scotch tape
or MonoKote into the hinge gap to prevent the air from
slipping from the top of the wing to the bottom and vice­versa, bothers you, then don’t do it.

To achieve the maximum lateral trim on the model, the
hinge gap on the ailerons should be sealed. The easiest
way to do this is to disconnect the aileron linkages and fold
the ailerons as far over the top of the wing as possible
(assuming they are top or center hinged). Apply a strip of
clear tape along the joint line. When the aileron is returned
to neutral, the tape will be invisible and the gap will be
effectively sealed. Depending on how big the ailerons are
and how large a gaping gap you normally leave when you
install hinges, you could experience a 20 percent increase
in aileron control response just by this simple measure.

Your first flights should be to ascer tain control centering
and control feel. Does the elevator always come back to
neutral after a 180° turn or Split-S? Do the ailerons tend to
hunt a little after a rolling maneuver? Put the plane through

APPENDIX

43

44

its paces. Control centering is either a mechanical thing
(binding servos, stiff linkages, etc.), an electronic thing (bad
servo resolution or dead band in the radio system), or C.G.
(aft Center of Gravity will make the plane wander a bit).The
last possibility will be obvious, but don’t continue the testing
until you have isolated the problem and corrected it.

Let’s get down to the task of trimming the model.Use the
tachometer every time you start the engine, to insure
consistent results. These tr im flights must be done in calm
weather. Any wind will only make the model weather vane.
Each “maneuver” on the list assumes that you will enter it
dead straight-and-level.The wings must be perfectly flat, or
else the maneuver will not be correct and you’ll get a wrong
interpretation. That’s where your observer comes in.
Instruct him to be especially watchful of the wings as you
enter the maneuvers.

Do all maneuvers at full throttle. The only deviation from
this is if the plane will routinely be flown through maneuvers
at a different power setting.

Let’s commence with the “engine thrust angle” on the
chart. Note that the observations you make can also be
caused by the C.G., so be prepared to change both to see
which gives the desired result. Set up a straight-and-level
pass. The model should be almost hands-off. Without
touching any other control on the transmitter, suddenly
chop the throttle. Did the nose drop? When you add power
again, did the nose pitch up a bit? If so, you need some
down thrust, or nose weight.When the thrust is correct, the
model should continue along the same flight path for at
least a dozen plane lengths before gravity starts to naturally
bring it down.

Do each maneuver several times, to make sure that you
are getting a proper diagnosis. Often, a gust, an accidental
nudge on the controls, or just a poor maneuver entry can
mislead you. The thrust adjustments are a real pain to
make. On most models, it means taking the engine out,
adding shims, then reassembling the whole thing. Don’t
take shortcuts.

Don’t try to proceed with the other adjustments until you
have the thrust line and/or C.G. correct. They are the basis
upon which all other trim settings are made.

Also, while you have landed, take the time to crank the
clevises until the transmitter trims are at neutral.Don’t leave
the airplane so that the transmitter has some odd-ball
combination of trim settings. One bump of the transmitter
and you have lost everything. The trim must be repeatable
and the only sure way to do this is to always start with the
transmitter control trims at the middle.

The next maneuver is somewhat more tricky than it
looks. To verify C.G., we roll the model up to a 45° bank,
then take our hands off the controls.The model should go a
reasonable distance with the fuse at an even keel. If the
nose pitches down, remove some nose weight and the
opposite if the nose pitches up.The trick is to use only the
ailerons to get the model up at a 45° bank. We almost
automatically start feeding in elevator, but that’s a no-no.Do
the bank in both directions, just to make sure that you are
getting an accurate reading of the longitudinal balance.

We now want to test the correct alignment of both sides
of the elevator (even if they aren’t split, like a Pattern ship’s,

they can still be warped or twisted).Yaw and lateral balance
will also come into play here, so be patient and eliminate
the variables, one-by-one. The maneuver is a simple loop,
but it must be entered with the wings perfectly level.
Position the maneuver so that your assistant can observe it
end-on. Always loop into the wind. Do several loops and
see if the same symptom persists. Note if the model loses
heading on the front or back side of the loop. If you lose it
on the way up, it’s probably an aileron problem, while a loss
of heading on the way back down is most likely a rudder
situation.

Note that the Yaw test is the same looping sequences.
Here, however, we are altering rudder and ailerons, instead
of the elevator halves. We must repeat that many airplanes
just will not achieve adequate lateral trim without sealing the
hinge gaps shut.The larger you make the loops (to a point),
the more discernable the errors will be.

The Lateral Balance test has us pulling those loops very
tightly. Pull straight up into a vertical and watch which wing
drops. A true vertical is hard to do, so make sure that your
assistant is observing from another vantage point. Note that
the engine torque will affect the vertical fall off, as will
rudder errors. Even though we balance the wing statically
before leaving for the field, we are now trimming it
dynamically.

The Aileron Coupling (or rigging), is also tested by doing
Hammerheads Stalls. This time, however, we want to
observe the side view of the model. Does the plane want to
tuck under a bit? If so, then try trimming the ailerons down
a small bit, so that they will act as flaps. If the model tends
to want to go over into a loop, then rig both ailerons up a
few turns on the clevises. Note that drooping the ailerons
will tend to cancel any washout you have in the wing. On
some models, the lack of washout can lead to some nasty
characteristics at low speeds.

Again, we reiterate that all of these controls are
interactive. When you change the wing incidence, it will
influence the way the elevator trim is at a given C.G. Re­trimming the wing will also change the rigging on the
ailerons, in effect and they may have to be readjusted
accordingly.

The whole process isn’t hard. As a matter of fact it’s
rather fun — but very time consuming. It’s amazing what
you will learn about why a plane flies the way it does and
you’ll be a better pilot for it. One thing we almost guarantee,
is that your planes will be more reliable and predictable
when they are properly trimmed out. They will fly more
efficiently and be less prone to doing radical and surprising
things.Your contest scores should improve, too.

We wish to acknowledge the Orlando, Florida, club
newsletter, from which the basics of the chart presented
here were gleaned.

Reprinted in part by Great Planes Model Manufacturing
Company, cour tesy of Scale R/C Modeler

magazine, Pat

Potega, Editor, August 1983 issue.

45

TRIM FEATURE MANEUVERS

OBSER

VATIONS CORRECTIONS

CONTROL
CENTERING

CONTROL
THROWS

ENGINE
THRUST
ANGLE

1

CENTER OF
GRAVITY
LONGITUDINAL
BALANCE

YAW

2

LATERAL
BALANCE

AILERON
RIGGING

Fly general circles and
random maneuvers.

Random maneuvers

From straight flight,
chop throttle quickly.

From level flight roll to
45-degree bank and
neutralize controls.

Into wind, do open loops,
using only elevator.
Repeat tests doing
outside loops from
inverted entry.

Into wind, do tight inside
loops.

With wings level, pull
to vertical climb and
neutralize controls.

Try for hands off straight
and level flight.

A.Too sensitive, jerky

controls.

B.Not sufficient control.

A. Aircraft continues level

path for short distance.
B.Plane pitches nose up.
C.Plane pitches nose

down.

A. Continues in bank for

moderate distance.
B.Nose pitches up.
C.Nose drops.

A.Wings are level

throughout.
B.Yaws to right in both

inside and outside

loops.
C.Yaws to left in both

inside and outside

loops.
D.Yaws right on insides

and left on outside

loops.
E.Yaws left in insides and

right on outside loops.

A.Wings are level and

plane falls to either side

randomly.
B.Falls off to left in loops.

Worsens as loops

tighten.
C.Falls off to right in

loops.Worsens as

loops tighten.

A. Climb continues along

same path.
B.Nose tends to go to

inside loop.
C.Nose tends to go to

outside loop.

Readjust linkages so that
Tx trims are centered.

If A, change linkages to

reduce throws.

If B, increase throws.

If A, trim is okay.

If B, decrease downthrust.
If C, increase downthrust.

If A, trim is good.

If B, add nose weight.
If C, remove nose weight.

If A, trim is correct.

If B, add left rudder trim.

If C, add right rudder trim.

If D, add left aileron trim.

If E, add right aileron trim.

If A, trim is correct.

If B, add weight to right

wing tip.

If C, add weight to left

wing tip.

If A, trim is correct.

If B, raise both ailerons

very slightly.

If C, lower both ailerons

very slightly.

1. Engine thrust angle and C.G. interact.Check both.

2.Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that fin may be crooked.Right and left references are from the plane's vantage point.

3. Ailerons cannot always be trimmed without sealing the hinge gap.

46

COMPUTER RADIOS.

As you prepare to fly the Tracer for the first time, there are a
few features on computer radios we'd like to mention. There
are many others, of course, but these are commonly used
features on most computer radios. If you are using a non­computerized radio, this information may still be of interest to
you for future installations.

ATV or Travel Volume: ATV is a wonderful feature of
computer radios which allows you to make minor adjustments
to how far a servo travels at its extremes. For example, you
install the throttle pushrod and it's almost perfect, except you
have some binding at wide open. Instead of struggling with
the clevises to try to keep full throttle but not have the binding,
you can turn down the ATV slightly until the binding is gone.

Why only adjust ATV slightly? Control linkages are really just a
lesson in leverage.The less distance the servo is moving for a
given throw at the surface, the less leverage you have given
the servo to do the job. Thus the lower you set the ATV the
less power you are leaving for the servo to apply to the
surface. Additionally, a servo has only so many points within
its range of motion. By cutting its range in half, you've also
diminished the precision of the servo by 50%.Because of both
of these issues, we strongly recommend setting the high rates
as close as possible to 100% on the ATV.

Dual Rates: Setting dual rates helps make your model easier
to fly in a variety of situations. For example, an expert pilot
who wants to do torque rolls will need a large amount of
control throw. However, s/he does not want that same huge
volume of throw when executing perfectly smooth loops or
slow rolls. Low rates give your model a soft feel, with
aggressive responsiveness just a flip of a switch away.

Exponential, the Best of Both Rates: Exponential is a
feature which modelers tend to either love or hate. The
benefits of exponential are that they make the elevator, for
example, feel like it is on low rates when you are moving the
stick near center; however, when you get farther from center
the model gets progressively more responsive. The reason
this is helpful is that it allows you to make soft, minor
adjustments when small corrections are needed, but still
allows you sufficient throw to make major changes at full
stick. For example, you can smoothly level the wings while
flying along straight and level without over-controlling, yet still
have enough aileron throw at full stick to complete a one­second roll.

Idle Down and Throttle Kill: Idle down allows you to have a
switch set for a high idle, ideal for most aerobatics where you
have little or no risk of dead sticking, as well as a lower idle
setting for, say, landings, taxiing and minimum throttle
maneuvers such as spins. The throttle kill setting on most
computer radios will idle your engine down whate ver percent you
set it so that your engine will shut off when the switch is thrown
AND the throttle stick is in the idle position. This is an excellent
safety feature to shut off y our engine in emergency situations.

Great Planes® Giles G-202

With a mild .46, this kit flies slowly enough to be a good
second model. Use a hot .46 FX and it's a MinIMAC terror.
Install a 4-stroke .91, and performance is unlimited!
Designed by 2-time U.S. IMAC National Freestyle
Champion Mike Cross, the Giles G 202 takes maximum
advantage of self-aligning, slot and tab construction to build
fast, straight and strong. Longitudinal ply rails inside the
fuselage absorb "touchdown" stress from the included,
heavy-duty aluminum landing gear. Dual aileron ser vos
deliver swift, sure input for greater control authority—and
the radio compartment offers room to install optional twin
elevator servos that simplify radio set-up, tighten linkages
and boost servo power. GPMA0238

Great Planes Extra 300S .40-size

Ideal for MinIMAC, Great Planes’ sport-scale Extra 300S kit
requires no more experience, expense or assembly work
than the average mid-size sport model. It minimizes
building challenges with CAD-engineered, perfectly
interlocking parts, a photo-illustrated instruction manual
and accurate, full-size plans. The fully symmetr ical wing
comes with preshaped and notched leading and trailing
edges and D-tube construction to maximize strength.
Economize by using the engine from your .40-size sport
trainer...or use a “hot” .40 engine to fly unlimited vertical!

GPMA0235

OTHER KITS AVAILABLE

FROM GREAT PLANES

47

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date:________________________

Where Purchased:_________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG

TWO VIEW DRAWING

Use copies of this page to plan your trim scheme