Great Planes GPMA0390 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase.This warranty does not cover an y component parts damaged by use or modification.In no case shall Great Planes’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without

notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor

accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assemb led product.By the act of using the user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING
CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING
THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

USB4P03 for GPMA0390 V:1.0 Printed in USA Entire Contents © Copyright 2002

1610 Interstate Drive Champaign, IL 61822

[phone], Ext. 2

[e-mail]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 58-1/2 in [1485mm]
Wing Area: 595 sq in [38.4 dm2]
Weight: 5.3-5.7 lbs [2400 – 2600g]
Wing Loading: 20.5-22.3 oz/sq ft [62.5 – 67.7 g/dm

2

]

Length: 46 in [1170mm]
Radio: 4-Channel with 5 ser vos

Engine: .40 to .52 cu in [6.5 – 8.5cc] two-stroke, .52 to

.70 cu in [8.5 – 11.5cc] four-stroke

™

INTRODUCTION ..........................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.............................................................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE...................................................3

Radio Equipment...................................................................3

Engine Recommendations ....................................................3

Landing Gear Configurations.................................................3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED................................................4

Hardware & Accessories.......................................................4

Adhesives & Building Supplies ..............................................4

Optional Supplies & Tools......................................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES .................................................5

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS.......................................................6

TYPES OF WOOD........................................................................6

METRIC CONVERSIONS ............................................................6

METRIC/INCH RULER .................................................................6

DIE PATTERNS .....................................................................7 & 8

RETRACT WIRE TEMPLATE.......................................................8

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS.........................................................9

BUILD THE T AIL SURFACES......................................................9

Build the Stab & Elevator ......................................................9

Build the Fin & Rudder........................................................11

BUILD THE WING ......................................................................13

Build the Wing Panels .........................................................13

Join the Wings.....................................................................23

BUILD THE FUSELA GE ............................................................24

RADIO AND ENGINE INSTALLATION......................................34

Radio Installation.................................................................34

Engine Installation...............................................................36

MOUNT THE WING TO THE FUSELA GE..................................38

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR................................................41

ASSEMBLE THE CO WL............................................................45

COVER THE MODEL WITH MONOKOTE

®

................................46

Covering Sequence.............................................................47

INSTALL THE STAB & FIN........................................................47

PAINTING...................................................................................47

JOIN THE CONTROL SURFACES ............................................48

FINISHING THE MODEL ...........................................................48

Apply the Decals .................................................................48

Finish the Cockpit................................................................49

Finish the Radio Installation................................................49

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY............................................49

Check the Control Directions...............................................49

Set the Control Throws........................................................50

Balance the Model (C.G.) ....................................................50

Balance the Model Laterally................................................51

PREFLIGHT ...............................................................................51

Identify Your Model ..............................................................51

Charge the Batteries ...........................................................51

Balance the Propellers ........................................................52

Ground Check .....................................................................52

Range Check .......................................................................52

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............................................52

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt).................................................53

CHECK LIST..............................................................................53

FLYING.......................................................................................53

Fuel Mixture Adjustments....................................................54

Takeoff.................................................................................54

Flight....................................................................................54

Landing................................................................................54

FIXED T AILDRAGGER TEMPLATE...........................................57

FIXED TRIKE TEMPLA TE..........................................................57

ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATE....................................................57

RETRACT TEMPLA TE...............................................................59

TWO VIEW DRAWING......................................Back Cover Page

FUSE & WING PLANS..........................Center Pull-Out Section

The Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus™is a kit designed to
appeal to a wide range of modelers. The starting point for
the design of this new airplane was the original Ultra Sport
kit which was legendary.The new Great Planes Ultra Sport
40 Plus can be flown low and fast or it can be used for wild
aerobatics, including 3D type flying.The Great Planes Ultra
Sport 40 Plus tracks straight no matter what flying attitude
the pilot tries to hold. This is a fly-where-you-point airplane.
The Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus has an extremely
wide CG range to allow for fast and easy flying with a
forward CG or wild aerobatics with an aft CG. The new
airplane has also been designed to have no roll or pitch
coupling at an aft CG.An engine within the higher end of the
recommended engine range will provide unlimited vertical
while the 3D throws will make hovering maneuvers easy.
The Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus is a great sport
airplane that will do anything the pilot asks.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus visit the web site listed
below and select the Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus. If
there is new technical information or changes to this kit a
“tech notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of
the page.

http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html

1. Your Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model
that functions very much like a full-size airplane.Because of
its performance capabilities, the Great Planes Ultra Sport 40
Plus, if not assembled and operated correctly, could
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage
to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those
instances the written instructions should be considered as
correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,Y OURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTIONTABLE OF CONTENTS

2

6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
should fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.

8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying,
such as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps
to reinforce the high stress points.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions
to end up with a well-built model that is straight
and true.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit
with the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also
inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable
quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or
if you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at [phone], or e-mail us at

[e-mail]

. If you are

contacting
us for replacement parts, please be sure to provide the
full kit name (Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus) and the
part numbers as listed in the Parts List.

You can also check our web site at

www.greatplanes.com

for the latest Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus updates.

If you have not flown this type of model before, we
recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced
pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a
member of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend
you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA
membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs.
There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance
to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events.
Additionally, training programs and instructors are available
at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number
below:

The Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus can use either a 4
channel radio with 5 servos (and Y harness for the ailerons)
or a computer radio. While the 4 channel non-computer
radio will provide more than enough performance to fly the
airplane, a computer radio will help the pilot to extract all
possible performance out of the airplane, and that is why it
is recommended. Five standard servos are all that is
necessary to fly the Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus.

The recommended engine size range for the Great Planes
Ultra Sport 40 Plus is a .40 to .52 cu in [6.5 – 8.5cc] two­stroke, or .52 to .70 cu in [8.5 – 11.5cc] four-stroke. If an
engine in the upper end of the size range is used, throttle
management must be practiced. While all engines in the
recommended range provide good performance, a 2-stroke
engine is more suitable for high speed flying and a 4-stroke
engine is better for constant speed aerobatics. Make sure
you pick an engine adequate to your flying style.

The Ultra Sport 40 Plus has been designed around three
different landing gear configurations. Your must choose
which one you want to use before you begin construction of
the kit.These are the three options:

Fixed Tricycle: Probably the configuration that makes
ground handling easier.It is also the least aerodynamic.

Fixed Mains and Tail Wheel: This is the simplest and
lightest possible landing gear configuration. It is also more
aerodynamic than the Fixed Tricycle.Ground handling is not
as easy as with the Fixed Tricycle, especially on take off

Landing Gear Configurations

Engine Recommendations

Radio Equipment

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality
kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability
of your finished model depends on how you build it;
therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

3

where the engine torque tends to steer the airplane to
the left.

Retractable Mains/Fixed Tail Wheel: This is the heaviest
and most complex of the three configurations. It is also the
most aerodynamic and the “coolest” by far.

Throughout the manual there are steps named as above
which pertain only to that landing gear configuration. Decide
which landing configuration you want to use and cross out
all steps that are for other landing gear configurations.

Following is the list of hardware and accessories required to
finish the Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus. Order numbers
are provided in parentheses.

❏ Spinner – 2-1/4" (GPMQ4515)
❏ Propellers – see engine manufacturer’s

recommendation

❏ Fuel line – 3' [914mm] silicone (GPMQ4131)
❏ 10 oz. Fuel tank (GPMA4104)

If you are using a computer radio you will also need:

❏ (2) 6" Servo extensions (HCAM2700)

If you are using a non-computer radio you will also

need:

❏ (1) “Y” harness (HCAM2751)
❏ (1) 6" Servo extension (HCAM2700)

If you are building a Fixed Mains and Tail Wheel Landing
Gear Configuration you will also need:

❏ (2) 2-1/2" Main wheels (GPMQ4223)
❏ (1) 1" Tail wheel (GPMQ4241)
❏ (4) 5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
❏ (1) 3/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4302)

If you are building a Fixed Tricycle Landing Gear
Configuration you will also need:

❏ (2) 2-1/2" Main wheels (GPMQ4223)
❏ (1) 2-1/4" Nose wheel (GPMQ4222)
❏ (5) 5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)

If you are building a Retractable Mains/Fixed Tail Wheel
Landing Gear Configuration you will also need:

❏ (2) 2-1/2" Main wheels (GPMQ4223)
❏ (1) 1" Tail wheel (GPMQ4241)
❏ (2) Great Planes .40-size retractable landing gear

(GPMQ2905)

❏ (4) 5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
❏ (1) 3/32" Wheel collar (GPMQ4302)
❏ (4) Screw-Lock pushrod connectors (GPMQ3870)

In addition to common household tools (screw drivers, drill,
etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important items
required to build the Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus.

We

recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 1/2 oz.Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
❏ 1 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❏ 6-Minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Latex foam rubber (HCAQ1000)
❏ 30-Minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0211)
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0212)
❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
❏ Electric drill and 1/16" [1.6mm] [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm],

3/32" [2.4mm] [2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm] [3mm], 9/64"
[3.6mm], 5/32" [4mm],17/64" [6.7mm] and 1/4" [6mm]
drill bits

❏ Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers (HCAR1040)
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector

™

(GPMR6167) or waxed

paper

❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment (see

“Expert

Tip-Easy-Touch™Bar Sander”

on page 5)

❏ Great Planes tap and drill set (GPMR8108)
❏ Great Planes 1/4-20 tap and drill set (GPMR8105)
❏ Great Planes Pro Threadlocker

™

(GPMR6060)

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus.

❏ Great Planes CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ T op Flite

®

Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™(TOPQ5700)

❏ Top Flite Hot Sock

™

iron cover (TOPR2175)

❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ CA applicator tips (GPMR6033)
❏ CA accelerator (GPMR6034)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Builder’s Triangle Set (for fin alignment, HCAR0480)
❏ Felt-Tip marker (TOPQ2510)
❏ Small metal file
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

®

Moto-Tool

®

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8020)
❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)

Optional Supplies & Tools

Adhesives & Building Supplies

Hardware & Accessories

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

4

❏ Great Planes Slot Machine

™

(GPMR4010)

❏ Great Planes Hinge Marking Tool

™

(GPMR4005)

❏ Covering sock (TOPR2175)
❏ Curved-Tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts

(HCAR0667)

❏ Hook and loop material (GPMQ4480)
❏ Dead Center

™

engine mount hole locator (GPMR8130)

❏ Great Planes Accu-Throw

™

Deflection Gauge (for

measuring control throws, GPMR2405)

❏ Great Planes Groove Tube

™

(GPMR8140)

❏ Great Planes Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6160)

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a
length.

For example #6 x 3/4"

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" long.

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch, and a length.SHCS is just an abbreviation f or “sock et

head

cap screw” and that is a machine screw with a socket head.

For example 4-40 x 3/4".

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long with forty
threads per inch.

• When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a
specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they

refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.

• Not all die-cut parts have a number, or their complete

name stamped on them, so refer to the die patterns on
pages 7 and 8 for identification. When it’s time to remove

There are many places in this manual where we tell you
to reinforce holes made into wood with thin CA. It is
important to do this properly to ensure the strongest
possible grip of the screw into the wood. The proper
procedure is to drill the specified pilot hole first, then run
the screw in, remove it, wick thin CA into the hole, allow
the CA to cure and reinstall the screw.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity
for building a well finished model.Great Planes makes a
complete range of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and
replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.
While building the Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus, two
5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sanders and two 11" [280mm] Bar
Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive­backed Sandpaper were used.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and
Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" [280mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" [560mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" [840mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" [1120mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" [280mm] Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12' [3.66m] roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper
(GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" [140mm] strips (GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets) and
400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry sandpaper for
finish sanding.

5

the parts from their die sheets, if they are difficult to remove,
do not force them out. Instead, use a shar p #11 blade to
carefully cut the part from the sheet, then lightly sand the
edges to remove any slivers or irregularities. Save some of
the larger scraps of wood.

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Ver tical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

mm = Millimeters

SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw

TYPES OF WOOD

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

6

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm

1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm

1/4" = 6.4 mm

METRIC CONVERSIONS

3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm

1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm

12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm

7

DIE PATTERNS

8

DIE PATTERNS

RETRACT WIRE TEMPLATE

9

❏1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so they will

lie flat.

❏ 2. Position the wing so that the stab and elevator plan is

over your flat building board. Cover the plan with Great
Planes Plan Protector or waxed paper so glue will not

adhere.

❏ 3. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] stab center (SC). Pin

the stab center in its position over the plans.Locate one 1/8"
x 1/2" x 30" [3.2mm x 13mm x 760mm] balsa stick. Cut it to
size as shown on the plan to form the leading edge of the
stab.Glue it in place with medium CA.

❏ 4. Cut 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" [3.2mm x 13mm x 760mm] balsa

sticks to size as needed to form the stab outer structure.
Glue them in place with medium CA.

❏5. Locate the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x 760mm]

balsa sticks. Cut them to size as shown on the plan. Then

glue them in place with medium CA to form the stab inner
structure.

❏6. Locate the 1/8" x 1/8" x 30" [3.2mm x 3.2mm x 760mm]

balsa sticks. Cut them to size as shown on the plans to
complete the stab’s inner structure.Glue them in place with
thin CA. Remove the stab from the plans and lightly sand
the top and bottom surfaces of the stab smooth.

❏ 7. Cut 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" [3.2mm x 13mm x 760mm] balsa

sticks to size to form the elevator outer structure. Use
medium CA to glue the sticks in place.

❏ 8. Locate the two die-cut elevator roots (ER). Glue one

in place in each elevator half as shown on the plan.

❏ 9. Cut the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x 760mm]

balsa stick to size to form the elevator inner structure. Also,
cut the 1/8" x 1/8" x 30" [3.2mm x 3.2mm x 760mm] balsa
stick to size to complete the elevator inner structure. Use
thin CA to glue the sticks in place.

❏ 10. Remove the control surfaces from the plan and sand

them smooth. Locate four 1/16" x 3" x 36" [1.6mm x 76mm
x 914mm] balsa sheets. Mark and cut each sheet 19"
[480mm] from one end.

Build the Stab & Elevator

BUILD THE T AIL SURF A CES

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

❏ 11. Join two 19" [480mm] sheets together. Tape them

together with masking tape, then flip the sheets over and
glue the other side with thin CA. Let dry, remove the
masking tape and lightly sand the joint.Do this twice so that
you have one sheet for each side of the stab.

❏ 12. Sheet the top and bottom of the stab by applying

slow-curing glue such as 30-minute epoxy or wood glue to
the top and bottom of the stab structure and then placing the
structure between the 1/16" [1.6mm] sheets you just joined.
Use weights to apply pressure on the sandwich. Make sure
the stab is placed on a flat surface while the glue cures.
Sheet the top and bottom of the elevators following the
same procedure using the leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] sheets.
Again, make sure the elevators are placed on a flat surface
while the glue cures.If you wish to do so, you can round the
tip of the elevators.

❏ 13. Sand the edges of the stab and the elevators square

using a bar sander. Mate the stabilizer and elevators to
check the fit. Shape the leading edge of the stab and the
leading edge of the elevator counter balance to obtain the
shape shown in the plan’s cross section. Do not shape the
leading edge of the elevators yet.

❏ 14. Locate the center of the trailing edge of the stab.

Place a T-pin on the center at each end of the stab. Lay a
straight edge against the pins and draw a centerline on the
trailing edge of the stab. Repeat this procedure for the
leading edge of the two elevators. A great tool for marking
the center of the trailing edge is the Great Planes Precision
Hinge Marking Tool (GPMR4005).

❏ 15. Using the plans as your reference, mark the location

for the hinges on the T.E. of the stab and the L.E. of the two
elevator halves.

❏ 16. Cut the hinge slots in the stab and elevators using a

#11 blade inserted in your hobby knife. Begin by carefully
cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge location to accurately
establish the hinge slot.Make three of four more cuts, going
a little deeper each time.As you cut, slide the knife from side
to side until the slot has reached the proper depth and width
for the hinge.

10

❏ 17. Cut six 3/4" x 1" [19mm x 25mm] hinges from the CA

hinge strip. Snip off the cor ners so they go in easier.

❏ 18. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole 1/2" [13mm] deep in the

center of the hinge slot. This will help the glue to better
saturate the hinge and the wood when the hinges are
installed.

❏ 19. Bevel the L.E. of the elevator halves as shown on the

plan cross section.

❏ 20. Test fit the stab, hinges and elevator halves together.

IMPORTANT: Do not glue the hinges in place. This will
be done after the model has been covered.

❏ 21. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] the holes for the control horns on

both elevators as indicated on the ele v ators plan.Wick some
thin CA into the holes.

❏1.Unroll the wing plan.Pin the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa

fin base (FB) onto the plan and build the fin outer structure

Build the Fin & Rudder

To cut the hinge slot, place the blades onto the wood
where you want the slot. Lightly press the teeth into the
wood.When you are satisfied with the location, press the
button on the handle and the blades will cut easily into the
balsa wood.

We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots with the
introduction of the Great Planes Slot Machine™. This
simple electric tool cuts a perfect width slot for use with
CA hinges.

1" [25mm]

11

3/4" [19mm]

Trim the Corners

around it using the 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" [3.2mm x 13mm x
760mm] balsa sticks.Cut them to size as shown on the plan.

❏2.Finish the inner structure of the fin using the 1/8" x 1/4"

x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x 760mm] balsa sticks and the 1/8"
x 1/8" x 30" [3.2mm x 3.2mm x 760mm] balsa sticks.

❏3.Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] rudder base (RB) and

pin it onto the plan. Construct the rudder outer structure
using the 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" [3.2mm x 13mm x760mm ] balsa
stick.Cut them to size as shown on the plan.Then glue them
in place.

❏ 4. Cut the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x 760mm]

and the 1/8" x 1/8" x 30" [3.2mm x 3.2mm x 760mm] balsa
sticks to size to form the rudder inner structure. Glue them
in place with thin CA.

❏ 5. Remove the fin and rudder from the plan and sand

them smooth. Locate two 1/16" x 3" x 36" [1.6mm x 76mm
x 914mm] balsa sheets. Sheet both sides of the fin and the
rudder using the same procedure you used for the stab and
elevator.

❏ 6. Sand the edges of the fin and rudder square using a

bar sander. Mate the fin and the rudder to check the fit.
Shape the fin and the rudder to obtain the shape shown in
the plan’s cross section. Do not shape the leading edge of
the rudder yet.If you wish to do so, you can round the top of
the rudder as shown on the plan.

❏7. Locate the center of the leading edge of the rudder and

the center of the trailing edge of the fin using the same
procedure that was used on the elevator and stab.

❏ 8. Using the plan as a reference, mark the location of the

CA hinges on the fin and rudder.

12

❏ 9. Cut the hinge slots on the trailing edge of the fin and

the leading edge of the rudder following the same procedure
used on the stab and elevators.

❏ 10. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel and Retractable

Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Drill a 7/64" [2.8mm] hole 1"

[25mm] deep in the rudder for the tail wheel assembly as
shown on the plan. Make sure it is oriented 90 degrees to
the leading edge of the rudder.Wick thin CA in the hole.Cut
a groove 1/8" [3.2mm] wide from the bottom of the rudder up
to the hole. Hint: A perfect tool for this is the Great Planes
Groove Tube™(GPMR8140).

❏11.Bevel the leading edge of the rudder as shown on the

plans cross section.

❏ 12.Test fit the CA hinges but do not glue them in place.

This will be done after the model is covered.

❏ 13. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the control horn on the

rudder as indicated on the rudder plan. Wick some thin CA
into the holes.

❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheet. Roll it inside out so they will

lie flat.

❏ 2. Locate the right wing panel of the plan.You may find it

helpful to cut the plan in half, making them a more
manageable size to pin to your building board.

❏ 3. Position the right wing panel plan flat on the building

board. Cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector or
waxed paper so glue will not adhere to it.

❏❏4. Locate the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa main shear

web (MSW), the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing ribs W2
through W8 and the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa wing
rib

W9.

Note: In the following steps it is important to pay careful

attention and assemble the parts exactly as instructed.
Failure to do so will result in a wing that is not straight.

❏❏5. Insert the wider end of MSW into W2. Position the

rib over the second set of notches and then twist it into the
notch.The top of MSW is marked. Push MSW forward until
it sits against W2.Do not glue them to each other at this

time.

❏❏6. Insert all other ribs in order (W3, W4, W5, ...W9)

and twist them into their notches.Because W9 is installed at
a different angle against MSW, you may need to slightly
sand MSW to be able to position W9 as sho wn on the plans.
Again, all letters in the ribs should be right-side-up. Do not
glue any of the ribs in place yet.

Build the Wing Panels

BUILD THE WING

13

❏❏7. Locate two 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x

760mm] hardwood wing spars. Inser t them in place in the
ribs as shown. You should now have the top and bottom
wing spars inserted on the wing ribs as shown. Do not glue
the spars in place yet.

❏❏8. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] wing trailing edge

(TE). Insert it into the notches at the trailing edge of each of

the ribs. Be sure that the tall end of TE is at the root of the
wing. Line up the ribs and webs with the plans. Place
weights on top of the structure to make sure it sits flat
against the building surface.Use thin CA to glue all the parts
together.

❏❏9. Locate the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] wing rib W1.

Place the rib in the notches in MSW at the root of the wing.
Use the die-cut dihedral gauge (DG) to set the correct
amount of dihedral for the root rib W1. Insert the trailing
edge notch on the rib in its slot in TE.Glue W1 in place with
medium CA.

❏❏10. Locate the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] dowel plate

doubler (DP). Inser t it as shown in the slot in W2 and the

leading edge of W1. Make sure it is inserted at 90 degrees
from the building surface.Glue it in place with medium CA.

❏❏11. Carefully cut the portion of the rib W2 that is

between the wing spars.This is done to allow the wing joiner
to later be inserted between the wing spars.

❏❏12.Locate the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] aft shear web

(ASW).

Insert it between ribs W1, W2 and W3, twist it and push it
against the wing spars. Glue ASW in place with thin CA.

14

❏❏13. Locate one die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply aileron

servo tray (AST).The tray is not symmetrical because of

the sweep of the main wing spar. Place the aileron servo
tray against the wing main shear web (MSW) and the wing
rib W4. The ser vo tray will only fit one way, so flip it if you
need to.Once you are satisfied with the fit, mark the top side
of the tray as shown.

❏❏14.Locate two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] servo tray

supports

(STS). Glue them to ATS as shown in the above image.

❏❏15. Fit the ser vo tray assembly to the main shear web

(MSW) and W4 as shown.You will need to slightly sand one
of the servo tray supports (STS) to make it fit as shown in
the above image.Once you are satisfied with the fit, glue the
assembly in place with medium CA.

❏❏16. Fixed Tricycle. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

lite-ply ribs W3-B and W4-B. Glue them to the inner side of
the 3rd bay with epoxy as shown in the plans. Use plenty of
epoxy on this and the following steps.

❏❏17. Fixed Tricycle. Locate one of the 1/2" x 3/4" x

5-1/2" [13mm x 19mm x 140mm] hardwood landing gear
rails. Cut the rail into two pieces, one 4-1/4" [108mm] long
and another 7/8" [22mm] long.Glue them in place as shown
using epoxy.

❏❏18. Fixed Tricycle. Drill a 5/32" [4mm] hole through

the slot on the vertical piece of the landing gear rail into the
horizontal portion of the rail.This is for the landing gear wire.

15

❏❏19. Locate one 1/16" x 1/2" x 30" [1.6mm x 13mm x

760mm] balsa sub-leading edge. Glue it in place in front of
all ribs with medium CA. After gluing it in place, lightly sand
the top and bottom of the sub-leading edge with a sanding
bar, making sure it matches the shape of the ribs.Sand the
ends to fit the ribs.

❏❏20. Fixed and Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel.

Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply sub-leading edge
doubler (SED) and glue it with epoxy to the sub-leading

edge between ribs W3 and W4. After the glue has cured,
lightly sand SED until it matches the shape of the ribs.

❏❏21. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel. Locate the die-cut

1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply ribs W3-A, WL-A, and W4-A. Use
epoxy to glue them in place as shown on the wing plan.
Also, use epoxy on the cuts on the ribs. After the epoxy has
cured, sand the ribs smooth with the top and bottom
surfaces of the wing.

❏❏22. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel. Locate one of the

1/2" x 3/4" x 5-1/2" [13mm x 19mm x 140mm] hardwood
landing gear rails. Cut the rail into two pieces, one 4-1/4"
[108mm] long and another 5/8" [16mm] long. Glue them in
place as shown using epoxy. Drill a 5/32" [4mm] hole
through the slot in the vertical rail into the horizontal rail.
This is for the landing gear wire.

❏❏23. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Locate the

die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply ribs W3-A, WL-A, and W4-A.
Make straight lines between the top of the pre-cut edges
and cut the material out as shown in the above image.
Locate the 1/4" x 1/2" x 8" [6.4mm x 13mm x 203mm]
hardwood stick and cut it in four pieces 1-7/8" [48mm] long.
You will use two pieces on each retractable landing gear
mount on each wing.

❏❏24. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Glue W3-A,

WL-A and W4-A as shown in the above image using epoxy.

16

The strength of your landing gear depends on how well you
glue these parts in place. Make sure W3-A, WL-A and
W4-A are also glued well to the wing’s main shear web
(MSW) and to the sub-leading edge doubler (SED).

❏❏25. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Glue the two

1/4" x 1/2" x 1-7/8" [6.4mm x 13mm x 48mm] hardwood
retractable gear mounts between W4-A and WL-A as shown
with epoxy. Add small pieces of scrap hardwood sticks glued
with epoxy between the landing gear mounts and the lite ply
ribs to reinforce the area.

❏❏26. Locate two 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 13mm x

760mm] balsa sticks and cut them in five pieces 4-1/2"
[114.5] long, two pieces 2-1/4" [57mm] long and one piece
1-7/8" [48mm] long.Sand the edges at an angle so that they
fit between the ribs at the trailing edge of the wing and glue
them in place with medium CA.

❏❏27. Cut another piece from the leftover 1/4" x 1/2" x

30" [6.4mm x 13mm x 760mm] sticks in the above steps and
fit it between W8 and W9 at the leading edge as shown on
the plan.Glue it in place with medium CA.After the glue has
cured, lightly sand the block until it matches the shape of
the ribs.

❏❏28. Fixed and Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel.

Cut a 3/32" [2.4mm] piece of scrap balsa to fit between the
main spars at the W3 rib.This piece of balsa seals the inner
end of the wing joiner pocket to prevent the epoxy from
spilling into the wing while gluing the wing joiner in place in
a future step.

❏❏29. Flip the wing over so that you can see the bottom

side and glue a small piece of scrap 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa to
the edges of the aileron servo tray. Once the glue has cured,
sand the balsa to match the shape of the ribs.

17

❏❏30. Flip the wing over again to work on the top side.

Locate a 1/16" x 3/4" x 30" [1.6mm x 19mm x 760mm] balsa
stick. Glue the stick flush with the wing trailing edge (TE)
with medium CA. Cut the ends of the stick that extend past
the wing tip and wing root.

❏❏31. Glue together two pieces of 1/16" x 3" x 30"

[1.6mm x 76mm x 760mm] soft balsa used to sheet the tail
surfaces in a previous step .Sand the joint smooth.Mark one
end of the sheet 2-3/4" [70mm] away from the long edge.
Mark the other end of the sheet 4-1/2" [114.5mm] away from
the long edge.Make a straight line through these two marks
and use a straight edge to cut along the line.One of the cut
parts of this sheet will be used to sheet the leading edge of
the wing. The other par t will be used to sheet part of the
center-section of the wing and for cap stripping the wing.

❏❏32. Sand the top of the wing smooth with a long

sanding bar.Glue the sheeting to the main wing spar and to
the ribs and sub-leading edge as shown with medium CA.
Note that the sheeting starts centered on the main wing
spar.If you prefer to use a slower curing glue, place weights
on the sheeting to keep it attached to the wing ribs as the
glue cures.

❏❏33. Once the glue has cured, flip the wing over and

add more glue if necessary to attach the sheeting to the ribs
or sub-leading edge.

❏❏34. Cut the portion of the sheet that extends past the

root and the tip.

❏❏35.Locate a 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76mm x

760mm]
balsa sheet and cut four pieces 4-3/4" [121mm] long from it.
Glue one of the parts to the wing center-section. Use some
of the leftover sheeting cut in step 31 to complete the
center-section sheeting.

18

❏❏36. Cut the leftover sheeting from step 31 with the

grain into 3/8" [9.5mm] wide balsa strips.Use these strips to
make your cap strips. Cut the cap strips to fit between the
forward sheeting and the trailing edge sheeting. Use the
plans as a guide to identify the ribs that should be cap
stripped.

❏❏37.Flip the wing over and sand the bottom of the wing

smooth. Locate a 1/16" [1.6mm] x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick.
Glue the stick flush with the wing trailing edge (TE) using
medium CA. Cut the ends of the stick that extend past the
wing tip and wing root.

❏❏38. Use the sketch in step 31 to prepare the sheeting

for the bottom wing surface .Glue the sheeting in place using
the same procedure as was used for the top sheeting. Cut
the ends of the sheeting that extend out from the wing root
and tip.

❏❏39.Glue one of the 1/16" x 3" x 4-3/4" [1.6mm x 76mm

x 121mm] balsa sheets cut in step 35 to the wing center­section. Use some of the leftover sheeting cut in step 31 to
complete the center-section sheeting. Also, cut that same
leftover balsa sheet into 3/8" [9.5mm] strips and use them to
cap strip the ribs on the bottom surface of the wing.
Remember to cap strip the aileron servo tray. This is the

same

procedure as used for the top wing sheeting and cap strips.

❏❏40.Sand the tip and root of the wing smooth.Sand the

leading edge sheeting flush with the sub-leading edge.Also

19

sand the trailing edge sheeting flush with the wing trailing
edge (TE). Sand the top and bottom of the wing smooth.

❏❏41. Mark the trailing edge of the wing where the

aileron
ends between W2 and W3. Mar k one piece of aileron stock
1/2" longer than that distance. Cut the aileron stock at that
mark and glue it to the trailing edge of the wing as shown
above. Also, sand the stock flush that extends past the
root rib.

❏❏42. Place the aileron at the trailing edge of the wing

against the piece you just glued.Draw a line at the tip rib on
the aileron. Cut the aileron stock to length.

❏❏43. Use the same method described on step 14, page

10 to draw a centerline on the wing trailing edge and aileron
leading edge. Mark the location of the CA hinges on the
aileron and wing trailing edge as shown on the plans. Cut
the hinge slots using the same method you used for the
elevators.

❏❏44. Bevel the aileron as shown.Test fit the aileron to

the wing trailing edge with the CA hinges. Sand the sides
and the top or bottom of the aileron as needed to account
for the wing taper.

20

21

❏❏45. Locate the 1/4" x 5/8" x 30" [6.4mm x 16mm x

760mm] balsa leading edge and glue it to the sub-leading
edge of the wing. Cut the por tion of the leading edge that
extends past the tip rib and W2. Sand the leading edge to
shape as shown on the plans cross section.

❏❏46. Locate the 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 9" [13mm x 38mm x

229mm] balsa wing tip block and glue it to the wing tip.
Make sure the block covers the wing leading edge and the
aileron. Use a clothespin between the aileron and the wing
trailing edge at the root to hold the aileron in a neutral
position. Sand the block to shape as shown on the plans.

❏❏47. Use a high speed rotar y tool to dr ill a 1/2" [13mm]

hole in the top sheeting of the center-section as shown
above. The exact location of the hole is not important as
long as it is behind the main wing spar.

❏❏48. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Locate the

Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel landing gear cut-out
template and place it as shown on the sheeting on the
bottom of the wing.Cut the opening for the wheel and retract
in the bottom sheeting. Then remove the template, and
place it on the sheeting on top of the wing. Cut the opening
for the retract servo in the top sheeting.

❏❏49.Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Fit your

retractable
landing gear to the opening. Cut the sheeting as needed so
that the gear is flush with the sheeting. Once you are
satisfied with the fit, mark the holes for the landing gear onto
the mounting blocks.

❏❏50.Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Mix some

epoxy
thinned with alcohol and brush it on the inside of the landing
gear compartment and on the edges of the sheeting to
reinforce it.

❏❏51.Retractable Mains/Fixed T ailwheel.Drill a 1/4"

[6.4mm]

hole through W1 and W2 as shown at the die-cut mark.

❏❏52. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel. Locate the Fixed

Mains
and Tailwheel landing gear cut-out template. Place it as
shown on the bottom sheeting.Cut the sheeting as

indicated

by the template.

❏❏53. Fixed Tricycle. Locate the Fixed Tricycle landing

gear cut-out. Place it on the landing gear rail as shown
above.Cut the sheeting as indicated by the template.

❏ 54. If you have not done so, go back to step 4 and build

the left wing panel.

22

❏ 1. Make a line joining the edges of the top and bottom

main spars on both wing roots as shown above. Cut out the
wood between the lines.

❏ 2. Locate the two die-cut lite-ply wing joiners (WJ).Mix

some 30-minute epoxy and glue them together. Clean up

the excess glue and sand the edges smooth. Also, make a
line at the center of the wing joiner.

❏ 3. Test fit the wing joiner into the wing joiner pocket

between the main wing spars and shear webs. Note: The
top of the wing joiner is marked with a “TOP.”You will need
to sand the joiner for it to fit properly in the pocket.The fit
should be snug but not tight.The center-section of the wing
is not as strong as it will be until after the wing joiner is glued
in so do not force the joiner into the pocket. Do this for both
wing panels. Lightly sand the wing root ribs to achieve the
1-5/8" [41mm] dihedral. Note that you will need to bend the
joiner back slightly to make the wing root ribs meet because
of the taper of the main wing spars.

❏ 4. Mix 1 oz of 30-minute epoxy. Coat the wing joiner and

both wing roots with epoxy. Also, drop some epo xy into both
wing joiner pockets. Insert the wing joiner into the wing
joiner pocket of the right panel, making sure the top of the
joiner is facing the top of the wing.Slide the left wing panel’s
pocket onto the wing joiner until the root ribs meet.Bend the
wing joiner until the root ribs meet. Use clamps or tape to
hold the wing roots together until the glue has cured. Check
again that the dihedral is 1-5/8" [41mm]. Clean up any
excess epoxy.Note: Y ou need to f ollo w the abov e procedure
to glue the wing joiner in place to make sure the bending
stress on the wing joiner is distributed evenly.

Join the Wings

23

❏ 5. Locate the die-cut wing dowel plate (WDP) and

center it between ribs W2 as shown above. Once satisfied
with the fit, glue it in place with epoxy. The die letters on the
part should be right side up.

❏ 6. Drill a 1/4" [6.4mm] hole through DP where the holes

on WDP are as shown above.Drill into the wing joiner 3/32"
[2.4mm]. To do so, apply some masking tape to the 1/4"
[6.4mm] drill bit 1-13/16" [46mm] away from the end and drill
until the tape reaches the wing dowel plate.

❏7.Locate the 1/4" x 5" [6.4mm x 127mm] wing dowel.Cut

it in two 2-1/4" [57mm] long dowels. Round the edges of
the dowels.

❏ 8. Mix a small amount of epoxy and glue the dowels in

place as shown above. It is important that these dowels are
properly glued. Make sure that there is enough epoxy in all
the holes. After the dowels are installed, use a brush to
apply some more epoxy around the holes and the dowels
inside the wing.

❏❏1. Unroll the plan sheet. Roll it inside out so they will

lie flat.

❏❏2.Position the fuselage plan flat on the building board.

Cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector or waxed
paper so glue will not adhere to it.

❏❏3. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply

fuselage

side doublers (FSD). At the front of each FSD there is a

notch with two additional slits.On one FSD only, draw a line
from the end of each slit.Cut on the line using a hobby knife
and mark this FSD as “Right.” Mar k the other FSD as “Left.”

Note: You will begin building the right side fuselage. Make
sure you do not build two right sides.The forward fuselage
side (FFS) with the deeper notch is the right side of the
fuselage. This is important. The deeper notch on the right

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

24

side is what builds the engine right thrust so it is important
to install the left and right side correctly.

❏❏4.Locate the “right” die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa forward

fuselage side (FFS), bottom forward fuse (BFF) and aft
fuselage side (AFS). Align them over the plans and glue

them together with epoxy. After the epoxy has cured, sand
the glue joint smooth.

❏❏5. Locate the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa stab

doubler (SD) and glue it as shown in the above image.The

aft edge of SD should be aligned with the aft edge of the aft
fuselage side AFS.

❏❏6. Glue the right FSD on the assembled right forward

fuselage side as shown with epoxy. The top and forward
edge of the two parts must be aligned when glued.

❏❏7. Locate one 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" [4.8mm x 4.8mm x

760mm] balsa stick and glue it to the bottom aft edge of the
fuselage side as shown above. Cut the protruding stick and
glue it to the bottom forward fuselage side.

❏8. Repeat steps 3 to 5 for the left fuselage side.

Remember,

the left side mirrors the right side of the fuselage. Do not

build two right fuselage sides!

25

❏ 9. Now that both fuselage sides are completed, align

them and clamp them together. Lightly sand the fuselage
edges until they are identical. Also, sand the end of the
fuselage side (where the stab doubler (SD) is) at a slight
bevel as shown.

❏ 10. Locate the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa forward

fuselage top (FFT) and aft fuselage top (AFT).Align them

over the plans and glue them as shown. After the glue has
cured, sand the joint smooth. Pin the assembled top
fuselage on the plans.

❏11.Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply fuselage

former

F3 and the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa fuselage formers
F4, F5 and F6. Glue them in position on the fuselage top as

indicated on the plans. Make sure that all formers are glued
90 degrees to the building board.

❏12.Glue the right side of the fuselage to the fuselage top.

When completed, glue the left side in place.

❏ 13. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply fuselage

formers F1. Glue them together with epoxy. Wipe excess

epoxy with a paper towel dampened with alcohol.Sand the
edges so they match after the glue has cured.

26

❏ 14. Using 30-minute epoxy, glue the firewall (F1) in place

to the fuselage sides and the fuselage top. When gluing,
push the firewall (F1) against the fuselage sides and top.
Make sure the firewall (F1) is glued in with 3 degrees of right
thrust (check the plans) and 0.5 degrees of down thrust.
Hold in place with clamps until the glue has cured. Note:
Because the fuselage is being built upside down, the built-

in
right thrust will appear to be left thrust and the down thrust
will appear to be up thrust.

❏ 15. Locate three 36" [914mm] plastic flexible outer

pushrod tubes. Using the plans as your guide, install the

outer pushrods into the holes in the fuselage formers,
exiting the slots in the rear of the fuselage. Note that there
are two elevator pushrod tubes and only one rudder
pushrod tube.

❏ 16. Make a mark on the tubes where they contact the

fuselage formers and sides. Remove the tubes. Then
roughen the tubes with sandpaper at the marks you have
made. Reinstall the outer pushrod tubes back into the
fuselage and glue them in place with thin CA. The tubes
should extend about 2" [52mm] into the radio compartment.

❏ 17. Cut the tubes at an angle about 1/4" [6.4mm] away

from where they exit the fuselage. Fill the slots where the
tubes exit the fuselage with a 50/50 mix of 6-minute epoxy
and microballoons. The addition of the microballoons
thickens the epoxy, preventing it from running and making it
sand easier.Be careful not to get epoxy in the tubes.Do this
for both the right and left side of the fuselage. After the
epoxy is fully cured, use a sanding bar to sand the pushrod
exits flush with the fuselage on both sides of the fuselage.

❏ 18. Make a mark on the bottom fuselage 3" [76mm] in

front of former F5. Make another mark 3" [76mm] in front of
the first one.Locate the 3/32" x 4" x 30" [2.4mm x 102mm x
760mm] balsa sheeting and sheet the bottom of the aft
fuselage, leaving the portion between the marks unsheeted.
Sand the sheeting flush with the fuselage sides. Note that
the sheeting is done across the fuse for strength.

27

❏ 19. Cut a piece of the leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] sheeting to

a width of 3" [76mm] to be used as a hatch cover. Glue a
small piece of balsa on the bottom with the grain crossed to
act as a cover lip. Also, the lip should protrude about 1/8"
[3.2mm] past the edge of the hatch. Sand the edges of the
lip until it fits under the sheeting. Glue a leftover piece of
lite-ply on the fuselage, under the sheeting to act as a
support for the hatch screw.

❏ 20. Install the hatch in place with a #2 x 1/2" [12mm]

screw and a #2 washer. Sand the edges of the hatch flush
with the fuselage sides.

❏ 21. Flip the fuselage over and mark the location of the

screw hatch support. Remove the screw and the hatch
cover .Wick some thin CA into the hatch’ s hole and the hatch
support hole.

❏ 22. Cut another piece of leftover balsa as shown in the

above photo and glue it to the inside of the hatch cover to
stiffen it up.This piece of balsa should extend from the line
you just marked to the edge of the cover lip. Glue this in
with CA.

❏23. After the glue has cured, reinstall the hatch and round

the edges of the aft fuselage bottom.

❏24. Still using the same 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa sheet, sheet

and then sand the bottom forward fuselage. Round the
edges. See cross sections on the plans.

❏ 25. Flip the fuselage over and sand the top of the

fuselage smooth.

28

❏ 26. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply formers

F1-A.Glue them together with epoxy.Wipe away the e xcess

epoxy with a paper towel dampened with alcohol.Sand the
edges smooth after the glue has cured.

❏ 27. Glue F1-A at the top front of the fuselage into the

slots in F1.Use 6-minute epoxy .Make sure that F1-A is flush
with the firewall (F1).After the glue has cured, sand the face
of the firewall (F1) smooth.

❏ 28. Locate and cut out the engine mount template on

page 57 of this manual. Use spray adhesive on the back of
the template to glue it to the firewall (F1).Use a 5/32" [4mm]
drill bit to drill the engine mount bolt holes in the firewall
(F1). Use a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill bit for the outer pushrods.
Note that one of the pushrods is for the throttle and the other
one is for the steering if you are using a tricycle gear setup.
Also, use a high speed rotary tool to drill the large hole for
the fuel tubing. Note: Depending on the type and brand of
engine you use, you may have to relocate the throttle
pushrod.T o do so, fit your engine to the engine mount.Once
the engine mount is installed, determine where the throttle
pushrod should be.

❏ 29. Inser t a long 3/16" [4.8mm] drill bit into the throttle

pushrod hole in the firewall (F1).Using the plans as a guide,
align the drill bit to make a hole in former F2 so that the
throttle pushrod has a straight path to the throttle servo arm.
Insert a leftover piece of plastic outer pushrod into the holes
as shown. Mark and sand where the outer pushrod meets
with the fuselage formers. Glue the outer pushrod in place

29

with thin CA. Note: If you will be installing a tricycle gear
with nose steering, you will need to repeat this procedure for
the steering pushrod on the other side of the fuselage.

❏ 30. Locate four 6-32 blind nuts, four #6 washers and four

6-32 X 1" [25mm] SHCS. Inser t a washer onto each SHCS,
then install a SHCS in each hole with a blind nut as shown
above.Tighten the bolts until the blind nuts are drawn tight
into the wood on the back of the firewall (F1).Apply a small
dab of epoxy to the nuts so that they do not come loose,
being careful not to get any in the threads.

❏31. Locate the two die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa tank floor

parts (TF). Glue them side by side using CA as shown

above.

❏32.Cut a 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4mm x 12mm] piece of balsa stick

to length to fit in the forward fuselage as shown in the plan

just under the throttle pushrod as shown above. Use epoxy
to glue it in place.

❏ 33. Glue the tank floor on top of F3 and the stick you just

glued. Use CA to glue it in place.

❏34. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa former F2-A as

indicated on the plans with CA. Use the die-cut 1/16"
[1.6mm] balsa forward template (FT) to glue the former
F3-A at the needed angle with CA.

❏ 35. Draw a line across the top of the fuselage at the front

edge of the stab saddle as shown.Glue F6-A in front of this

30

mark with CA. Also, glue F5-A in place.Both formers should
be 90 degrees with the top of the fuselage.

❏ 36. Use the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa aft template

(AT) to glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa former F4-A at

the required angle with CA.

❏ 37. Locate the two 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" [4.8mm x 4.8mm x

914mm] balsa sticks and glue them in place with CA.Check
the fuselage plan and formers section view for the exact
position of these.

❏ 38. Locate the two die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa cockpit

floor (CF) pieces and glue them together as shown. Note

that one end of each of the die-cut pieces is wider than the
other end.The wider ends must be on the same end.

❏ 39. Insert the cockpit floor in the space between F3-A

and F4-A. The wider end of the cockpit floor must be
towards the front of the fuselage. Because of the angle of
the canopy formers, you may have to slightly sand the
cockpit floor and/or formers F3-A and F4-A to get a good fit.
Also, there will be a gap between the center of the cockpit
floor and the canopy formers F3-A and F4-A. This gap will
be later filled with filler. Once you are satisfied with the fit,
glue CF in place with CA.

❏ 40. Locate the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x

750mm] hardwood spar.Cut it to fit and then glue in the top
notches in the top of the aft (turtle deck) and forward (front
deck) formers as shown above. Use CA to glue it in place.

31

❏ 41. Assemble the fuel tank following the instructions that

came with your tank.Cut the 3' [760mm] fuel tubing in three
1' [255mm] sections. Connect each one of the fuel tubes to
the fuel tank and label them “vent,” “carburetor” and “fill.”
Note that if you plan to use a Great Planes Easy Fueler
Valve (GPMQ4160), you only need two lines, the carburetor
and the vent line.

❏ 42. Slide the fuel tank into the fuselage through the

opening in the wing saddle. Pull the fuel tubes through the
large hole in the firewall (F1). Locate the two die-cut 1/16"
[1.6mm] balsa fuel tank holders (TH) and glue them as
shown to hold the fuel tank in place.Once both tank holders
are glued in place with CA you may either leave the tank
installed inside the fuselage or you may remove it and
reinstall it later.

❏43. Locate the 1/8" x 1/8" x 30" [3.2mm x 3.2mm x

760mm]
balsa stick, cut it the proper length and glue it as shown
along the center of the hardwood spar in step 40 on top of
the turtle deck and the front deck formers. Use thin CA for
this step.

❏44. Locate a 1/16" x 4" x 30" [1.6mm x 101mm x 760mm]

balsa sheet and cut it as shown in the above sketch. Glue

32

the bottom edge to the top of the fuselage side and the
3/16" [4.8mm] balsa stick.Tape the sheet in place while the
glue cures.

❏ 45. Wet the outer side of the sheet with warm water and

ammonia. This will help you to bend the sheet to the aft
turtle deck shape. Once the sheet has conformed to shape,
apply CA to the edges of formers F4-A to F6-A and to the
top fuselage spar. Hold the sheeting in place with tape or
rubber bands until the glue has cured. When the sheeting
has dried, sand the ends flush with the formers.

❏ 46. Follow the same procedure to glue the sheeting on

the other side of the aft turtle deck.

❏ 47. Locate a 1/16" x 3" x 18" [1.6mm x 76mm x 457mm]

balsa sheet. Use the preceding sketch to cut the sheeting
for the forward sheeting. Use the same procedure as
described in the previous step to glue both sides of the
forward turtle deck sheeting. Once the sheeting is glued in
place and dry, sand the ends flush with the formers.

❏48. Cut a piece of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] sheeting to fit at

the canopy base between F3-A and F4-A. Glue it in place
with CA and sand it flush with the sides.

❏49.Mark the center of the fuselage top at F6-A.Make two

more marks on each side 1/8" [3.2mm] away.

33

❏50.Glue two pieces of 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2mm x 6.4mm] balsa

stick on top of each other at the center of the top fuselage
as shown.

❏ 51. Cut the 1/2" x 1-3/4" x 11" [13mm x 44mm x 280mm]

balsa fin block into two 5-1/2" [140mm] long pieces. Glue
one block on each side of the balsa stick you glued in the
previous step and to former F6-A. Use epoxy for this step.
Once the glue has cured, sand the blocks to shape as
shown above.

❏ 52. Insert the fin (but do not glue) between the blocks.

Sand where necessary to make the fin fit properly.

❏ 53. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel and Retractable

Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Temporarily install the tail wheel

assembly into the rudder and fit the rudder to the fin and
fuse. Mark where the slot for the tail wheel assembly nylon
bushing needs to be cut out in the aft fuselage. Cut the
needed slot in the fuselage.

❏ 54. If you decided to not take the fuel tank out in step 42,

you will now need to insert some 1/4" [6.4mm] latex foam
rubber (HCAQ1000) through the hole in former F3-A to hold
the fuel tank in place. If you took the fuel tank out, you will
need to do this when you reinstall it.

❏1. Locate the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 13mm x 760mm]

balsa stick that was used to make the fuel tank support.Cut
two pieces the length of the fuselage servo rails and glue
them in place as shown on the plans with epoxy.

Radio Installation

RADIO & ENGINE INSTALLATION

34

❏2.Install the elevator , rudder and throttle servos as

indicated
on the plans with the hardware supplied by the
manufacturer .Make sure you use thin CA in the servo screw
holes in the balsa rails.

❏3. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa pushrod

support

(PS). Inser t the elevators and rudder plastic outer pushrod

into the holes in the balsa pushrod support as indicated
above.Push PS against former F4 and move it up or down
until the plastic outer pushrods are at the same height as
the servo arms. Glue the pushrod support in place with CA.

❏ 4. Locate three 2-56 x 36" [914mm] threaded one end

pushrods. Cut one of them 24-1/4" [616mm] from the
threaded end, another at 22-1/4" [565mm] from the
threaded end and the last one at 23-3/4" [603mm] from the
threaded end. Bend the wires as indicated in the above

image.

❏ 5. Center the servos and position the servo arms as

shown in the photo.Insert the 24-1/4" [616mm] wire into the
plastic outer pushrod in the center (elevator). Insert the
23-3/4" [603mm] pushrod wire into the right plastic outer
pushrod (rudder). Insert the last pushrod wire (22-1/4"
[565mm]) in the left plastic outer pushrod (other elevator).
Locate two 5/32" [4mm] wheel collars and two 6-32 x 1/4"
[6.4mm] SHCS and attach the elevator pushrods as shown
above. Locate two nylon FasLinks and install them on the
elevator and rudder pushrods and servo arms.

❏ 6. Install the two aileron servos as shown on the plans

using the hardware supplied by the manuf acturer.Apply thin
CA to the screw holes in the servo tray.

35

36

❏7.Thread a clevis 15 full turns onto a 2-56 x 12" [152mm]

threaded one end pushrod. Install a clevis retainer onto the
clevis.Connect a control horn to the clevis.Place the control
horn on the aileron as shown above.The pushrod should be
at 90 degrees from the trailing edge of the wing. Mark the
holes for the control horn and also where the pushrod meets
the servo arm.

❏ 8. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes where the control horn

screws need to be. Wick some thin CA into the holes and
install the control horn in place with two #2 x 1/2" [13mm]
screws and a backplate. Also, bend the wire 90 degrees
where the wire pushrod meets the servo arm and install a
FasLink. Cut the excess wire 1/16" [1.6mm] away from the
FasLink.

Note: In the installation shown, the engine installed is an
O.S.

®

.70 4-Stroke. A 2-stroke engine can be installed the
same way as the instruction model engine. The
recommended position to install the engine is inverted,
although if you wish, you ma y install it in a different position.

❏ 1. Locate the left and right halves of the engine mount

and cut out the spreader bars.

❏ 2. Install the engine mount to the firewall (F1) with four

6-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, four #6 Washers and four #6 lock
washers. Before you tighten the SHCS, make sure that the
mount is the width you need for your engine and that it is
centered with the fuel line hole on the firewall (F1). Use
some Great Planes Pro Threadlocker on the engine mount
bolts and tighten the SHCS.

Engine Installation

❏3. Position the engine on the mount so that the face of the

drive washer is 4-7/8" to 5" [124mm to 127mm] in front of
the firewall (F1). Mark the position of the engine mounting
holes onto the mount. A Great Planes Dead Center Hole
Locator (GPMR8130) works great for this. Remove the
engine from the mount.

❏ 4. Drill the engine mount at the marks with a 7/64"

[2.8mm] drill and then tap the holes with a 6-32 tap. Mount
the engine onto the mount using four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm]
SHCS and four #6 lock washers. Use Great Planes Pro
Threadlocker on the SHCS and tighten them.

❏ 5. Locate a 1/16 x 36" [914mm] music wire and cut it in

half. Insert the 18" [457mm] music wire into the throttle
plastic outer pushrod. Bend the wire as necessar y so that it
reaches your carburetor. Connect the music wire to the
carburetor arm using a screw-lock pushrod connector. Use
Great Planes Pro Threadlocker on the screw-lock SHCS
and tighten it.

❏ 6. Connect the throttle music wire to the throttle servo

arm with a screw-lock pushrod connector as shown above.
Use Great Planes Pro Threadlocker on the screw-lock
SHCS and tighten it.

37

❏ 7. Fixed Tric ycle. These images are for your reference.

The steering arm should be installed 1-1/2" [38mm] above
the coil of the nose gear. Also, it should be installed at a
slight angle as shown above.To ensure that it will not come
loose, a flat spot should be filed where the steering arm’s
SHCS will be installed. Remember, the steering arm is at a
slight angle and so the flat spot will be, too.Use Great

Planes

Pro Threadlocker on the steering arm’s SHCS.

❏ 8. Fixed T ricyc le. Install the nose gear in place through

the holes at the bottom of the engine mount. The gear coil
should be 3/32" [2.4mm] away from the bottom of the
fuselage. Use Great Planes Pro Threadlocker on the SHCS
and tighten it.

❏ 9. Fixed Tricycle. Locate the leftover piece of music wire

used in step 5.Insert the music wire into the steering plastic

outer pushrod. Connect the music wire to the steering arm
using a screw-lock pushrod connector. Use Great Planes
Pro Threadlocker on the screw-lock SHCS and tighten it.

❏ 10. Fixed Tricycle. Connect the steering music wire to

the rudder servo arm with a screw-lock pushrod connector
as shown above .Use Great Planes Pro Threadlocker on the
screw-lock SHCS and tighten it.

❏ 11. Install the radio switch on the side of the fuselage. If

you wish to do so, now is the time to install an external
charge jack.

❏ 1. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply wing

mounting

plate (WMP) and the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply wing

MOUNT THE WING TO THE

FUSELAGE

38

mounting plate doubler (MPD). Glue the two parts

together with 30-minute epoxy as shown on the plans.Then
glue the assembly in position as shown in the image on the
previous page.

❏ 2. Mark the center of the fuselage at the wing trailing

edge (former F4).Insert the wing dowels into the wing dowel
holes in former F3. Push the wing down until the wing
trailing edge hits the bottom of the fuselage. Sand the
trailing edge of the wing flat as shown on the plan until the
wing fits in the fuselage saddle. Make sure it remains
centered.

❏ 3. Draw a straight line 1/2" [13mm] away from the wing

trailing edge at the bottom of the wing. Also, draw a line at
the center of the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite-ply wing bolt
plate (WBP).

❏ 4. Align the aft edge of the wing bolt plate (WBP) with

the line on the wing (remember, you are working on the
bottom of the wing). Also align the centerline on WBP with
the wing’s centerline. Glue the wing bolt plate in place with
epoxy. Use clamps to hold the wing bolt plate in place while
the glue cures.

❏ 5. Align the wing to the fuselage using the above sketch.

Use a 13/64" [5.15mm] or #25 drill bit to drill into the wing
and through the wing mounting plate in the fuselage. Make
sure

the hole is perpendicular to the wing bolt plate. Remove

the

wing.

❏ 6. Use a 1/4-20 tap to thread the holes in the wing

mounting plate (WMP) in the fuselage. Use thin CA to
strengthen the threads and re-tap the holes with the same

39

1/4-20 tap.Enlarge the holes in the wing with a 1/4" [6.4mm]
drill bit. Reinforce the area with thin CA.

❏ 7. Place a piece of waxed paper or Great Planes Plan

Protector between the wing and the fuselage. Install the
wing in place and tighten the wing bolts. Glue former F4-

B to

the wing trailing edge as shown with CA.

❏ 8. Glue the two die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa belly pan

(BP) sides to the bottom center-section of the wing between

formers F4-B and the wing dowel plate.

❏9. Make a mark on the edges of the belly pan sides where

the wing bolts are located.

❏ 10. Locate a 3/32" [2.4mm] left over piece of sheeting.

Cut it 10" [254mm] long. Fit it on top of F4-B and the wing
dowel plate.Mark the inner edges of the belly pan sides on
the sheeting.Draw straight lines between the marks and cut
the sheeting at those lines.

❏11.Glue the belly pan sheeting to the belly pan sides and

formers F4-B and the wing dowel plate.

40

❏ 12. Draw a line between the marks you made in step 9.

Draw another mark 1/2" [13mm] away from the belly pan
edges at the line. Use a high speed rotary tool to open up
holes at the marks for the wing bolts.

❏ 13. Sand the belly pan corners round.

❏ 14. Locate the 3/8" x 2" x 6" [9.5mm x 51mm x 152mm]

balsa block and cut it in two 3" [76mm] pieces.Glue a block
to each side of rib W2 as shown above.

❏ 15. Sand the blocks flush with the wing skins. Also, test

fit the wing onto the fuselage, sanding the blocks if
necessary until it fits well.

Note: These final landing gear installation steps can be
done before or after the covering has been applied to the
airframe.

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR

41

❏ 1. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Cut out the root

rib so that the retract servo fits between the wing dowels.
Place the servo between the dowels as shown above. Both
a Hobbico CS-63 retract servo (HCAM0160) and a Futaba
compact retract servo (FUTM0670) fit well in this location.

❏ 2. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. With the servo in

place, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the servo mounting
holes into the dowels.Remove the servo and wick some thin
CA into the holes.

❏ 3. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Install the retract

servo in place with the hardware supplied by the
manufacturer. Remove the servo’s output shaft.

❏ 4. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. The retract leg

should have a total length of 3-1/2" [89mm].Mark the leg of
your retracts at that distance when the retract is fully
extended and cut it with a high speed rotary tool such as a
Dremel Moto-Tool.

❏ 5. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Locate the

leftover 2-56" rods from the pushrods.Cut and bend the wire
as indicated in the retract wire template on page 8. The
template on the top is for the right retract and the template
at the bottom is for the left retract.

42

❏6. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Install a screw-

lock
pushrod connector on each retract control arm. Use a nylon
retainer to secure the connector to the control arm. Locate
two 4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] SHCS and use them to hold the
wire in place as shown. Apply some Great Planes Pro
Threadlocker on the SHCS. Use the above images for
reference.

❏ 7. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Install the r ight

and the left retracts in place on the retract mounts using the
hardware supplied by the manufacturer. Use the retract
manufacturer’s instructions to drill properly sized holes,
harden them with thin CA and install the retracts.The control
pushrod should slide into the hole previously drilled in W2.

❏ 8. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Cut up a servo

arm as shown in the above image and install two screw-loc k

pushrod connectors on it. Install the ser vo arm on the servo
and secure it with the servo screw. Install the retract control
wires to the screw-lock pushrod connectors. Apply Great
Planes Pro Threadlocker on the SHCS of the screw-lock
pushrod connectors. You will need to adjust the assembly
after the radio is installed.

❏ 9. Retractable Mains/Fixed Tailwheel. Install the retract

axles included with the retracts on the retract legs.Install the
wheels on the axles and hold them in place with 5/32"
[4mm] wheel collars and 6-32" x 1/4" [6.4mm] SHCS. Make
sure the wheel is aligned with the centerline of the wing and

43

that they fit in the wheel pocket in the wing.Once you have
determined the configuration, file flat spots on the retract
legs and the wheel axles for the wheel collars and wheel
axle. Apply Great Planes Pro Threadlocker on the SHCS
and tighten them.

Note: The installation of the main fixed gear for both the
Fixed Mains and Tailwheel and the Fixed Tricycle is identical
except for the location.The mounting blocks for either of the
two fixed gear were installed during the wing construction
and the openings in the wing sheeting for either of the gear
were cut out on page 22, steps 52 and 53 of the wing
construction. Use the following instructions for the
installation of both main fixed gear.

❏ 10. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel & Fixed Tricycle. Use a

small file to bevel the hole in the landing gear mounting
blocks.Locate the left main gear wire and slide it in place in
the landing gear mounting block. Do the same for the right
landing gear wire.

❏ 11. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel & Fixed Tricycle. Place

two nylon landing gear straps on the landing gear mounting
blocks as indicated on the plans. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot
holes for the landing gear straps mounting holes.Wick thin
CA into the holes. Repeat this step for the other wing.

❏ 12. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel & Fixed Tricycle. Install

all four landing gear straps in place with eight #2 x 1/2"
[13mm] screws.

❏ 13. Fixed Mains and Tailwheel & Fixed Tricycle. Install

the main wheels in place using four 5/32" [4mm] wheel
collars and four 6-32 x 1/4 [6.4mm] SHCS for both wheels.
File flat spots for the wheel collars. Use Great Planes Pro
Threadlocker on the SHCS and tighten them.

44

❏ 1. Locate the two cowl halves. Cut the two cowl halves

at the cut marks with Hobbico’s Curved-Tip Canop y scissors
(HCAR0667).

❏2. Glue the two halves together with medium CA.Work on

one side first, applying glue to a small section at a time,
working your way around the cowl. Do not use CA

accelerator

as it will make the ABS brittle and susceptible to cracks.

❏ 3. Fit the cowl to the fuselage and to the engine you are

going to use. Make the clearance opening you need for the
engine cylinder. Note: This clearance opening needs to be
as small as possible. Its exact shape and size can be

adjusted later, when the cowl position has been fixed with
the cowl screws.

❏ 4. Position the spinner backplate against the engine’s

drive washer. Position the cowl so that it is 3/32" [2.4mm]
behind the spinner backplate. Draw a line parallel to the
cowl edge 1/4" [6.4mm] away from it. Make a mark 3/4"
[19mm] up from the bottom of the cowl up on this line.Make
another mark 2-1/2" [63.5mm] higher than the first one. Do
this on both sides of the cowl.

❏ 5. Hold the cowl in place with tape. Make sure it does not

move. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole at the marks into the
fuselage sides. Remove the cowl and wick thin CA into the
holes in the fuse.

❏ 6. Remember that you need clearance holes for the

carburetor needle valve and glow plug.To do that, mar k the
location of the holes you need to drill with paper strips
attached to the airplane and then install the cowl in place
and mark the holes on the cowl. Use a high speed rotary
tool to drill the holes.

ASSEMBLE THE COWL

45

❏ 7. Apply a plastic filler such as Bondo

®

to fill the seam
where the cowl halves are joined. After the filler has cured,
sand the seam until the two cowl halves blend smoothly
together.

❏ 8. Wet sand the entire cowl with 400 grit wet or dry

sandpaper.The cowl is now ready to be primed and painted.
Once you are ready to install the cowl onto the fuselage, y ou
will use four #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws with four #2 washers.

It is assumed that you have already covered a couple of
models in the past, so we won’t go into many details on
covering techniques, but here are some tips you should
consider.

❏ 1. NEVER CUT THE COVERING DIRECTLY ON THE

SHEETING. The Ultra Sport 40 Plus depends on the

sheeting for some of its strength.Modelers who cut through
the covering tend to cut the sheeting and this will weaken
the structure.

❏ 2. Use a Top Flite

®

Hot Sock™to minimize dents in the

wood from your covering iron.

❏ 3. When you cover large sheeted surfaces such as the

wing, bond the covering in the middle and work outward,
pushing out air as you proceed. Do not move the iron in a
circular motion, but move it span-wise with the grain of
the wood.

❏ 4.When you cover smaller parts with square edges such

as the elevators and ailerons, cover the edges first with
separate pieces of covering.Then, all you hav e to do is wrap
the covering around the top and bottom and iron it down.

❏ 5. When you cover sharp junctions like where the stab

meets the fuse, cut narrow strips of covering and apply them
in the corners before you cover the major surfaces. The
larger pieces of covering will overlap the smaller pieces.
This technique also eliminates the need to cut the covering
after it has been applied.

HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA

Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the wing.
The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but
a fine tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully. Use
a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will
just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. The
hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a
fine cut. Peel off the covering.

CO VER THE MODEL WITH MONOKOTE

®

46

❏ 6. If you want to duplicate the trim scheme pictured on

the box you will need the following rolls of Top Flite
MonoKote:

1 Roll of Metallic Plum – TOPQ0403

1 Roll of Red – TOPQ0201

1 Roll of Yellow – TOPQ0203

2 Rolls of White – TOPQ0204

Fuselage

❏ 1. Tail

junctions strips

as described previously

❏ 2. Stab tops, then bottoms
❏ 3. Fin right, then left side
❏ 4. Fuse bottom aft, then front
❏ 5. Fuse sides
❏ 6. Turtle deck (may be done in one or two pieces)
❏ 7. Front deck (aft of cowl)

Wing

❏ 1. Hidden areas and cor ners such as the trailing edge

on the flap and aileron area

❏ 2. Belly pan sides and belly pan
❏ 3. Bottom of one, then the other half of the wing
❏ 4. Top of one, then the other half of the wing

Control Surfaces and Details

❏1. Ends, bottoms, then tops of elevators, ailerons and

flaps

❏ 2. One, then the other side of the rudder

Once you have the stab, fin and fuselage covered you can
permanently install the stab and fin to the fuselage.

❏ 1. Mount the wing to the fuselage. Then, inser t the stab

into the slots in the fuselage.Measure the distance from the
tip of the stab to the tip of the wing on the right side of the
fuselage. Measure the same point on the left side of the
fuselage.Adjust the stab until both sides measure the same.

❏ 2. If you covered the center-section of the stab, draw the

outline of the fuselage on the stab with a felt-tip marker.
Then, cut away the covering in the center-section so that
you can achieve a good glue joint between the balsa stab

center-section and the stab base on the fuselage. When
cutting the covering away be careful not to cut the balsa
wood. Cutting the balsa wood can weaken the structure!
Use the Expert Tip on page 46 for cutting the MonoKote.

❏ 3. Stand five to ten feet behind the model and view the

stab and wing. If the stab and wing align with each other,
proceed to the next step. If the stab and wing do not align,
place a weight on the "high" side of the stab to bring it into
alignment. If too much weight is required, remove the stab
and sand the "high" side of the slot in the fuse where the
stab fits until the stab aligns with the wing.

❏ 4. Glue the stab to the fuselage with 6-minute epoxy,

checking the distance from the stab to the wing before the
glue cures.

❏ 5. After the glue has cured on the stab, insert the fin into

the slots in the fuselage. Mark the outline of the fuselage
onto both sides of the fin. Remove the fin and cut the
covering, being careful not to cut into the balsa wood
structure.

❏6. Be sure the fin is 90 degrees to the stab.Then, glue the

fin to the fuselage with 6-minute epoxy.

At this stage all of your plastic pieces should have the
seams filled with Bondo or putty.If you haven’t already done
so, wet sand the plastic parts with 400-grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper so the paint will adhere. Spray the cowling with
at least one coat of Top Flite LustreKote®primer. Wet sand
the plastic parts between coats with 400-grit sandpaper.
Use Great Planes 1/8" [3.2mm] EZ-Mask Flexible Masking
Tape (GPMR1000) for masking sharp lines. A Top Flite Tack
Cloth (TOPR2185) is useful to remove dust before you
paint. Top Flite LustreKote paint gives a matching finish to
your MonoKote finish.

PAINTING

INSTALL THE STAB & FIN

Covering Sequence

47

Now that the control surfaces are covered, you can
permanently install the hinges into the control surfaces.

❏1. Start with the stab and elevators.Remove a small strip

of covering from the hinge slots.

❏ 2. Fit the hinges in the stab and elevator (without glue).

❏ 3. Join the elevators to the stab with the hinges. If the

hinges do not remain centered as you join the elevators to
the stab, remove the stab and insert a pin in the center of
the hinge to keep them centered. Make sure there is
approximately a 1/64" [.5mm] gap between the elevators
and the stab so you do not glue them together.

❏ 4. Add six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges on

both the top and bottom. The holes you drilled in the hinge
slot will wick the CA into the entire hinge surface. Use a
paper towel to absorb excess CA from the hinge gap before
it cures.

❏ 5. Use the same hinging method to join the rudder to the

fin and the ailerons to the wing.

❏ 6. Reinstall the pushrods you disconnected before

covering and mount the control horns to the ailerons,
elevator and rudder. Reinstall any hardware and other
components you may not already have in place such as the
fuel valve, fuel lines, servos, on/off switch, etc. Make sure
you install silicone clevis retainers on all nylon clevises.

1.Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.

2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily
fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket
with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water-about one
teaspoon of soap per gallon of water.Submerse the decal in
the soap and water and peel off the paper backing. Note:
Even though the decals hav e a “sticky-back”and are not the
water transfer type , submersing them in soap & water allows
accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.

3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water

away.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the
rest of the decals the same way.

Apply the Decals

FINISHING THE MODEL

Do not use CA accelerator on any of the hinges and do
not glue the hinges with anything but thin CA. Do not
attempt to glue one half of the hinge at a time.The hinges
will not be properly secured and could come out while the
model is in flight.

JOIN THE CONTROL SURF ACES

48

❏ 1. Cut the canopy on the cut line.If you chose to install a

pilot, use double-sided tape or glue it with CA to attach it in
place.The instrument panel decal should also be in place by
now. Position the canopy in place on top of the fuselage.
Once satisfied with the fit, apply a small bead of Z-56
canopy glue to the bottom of the canopy where it comes in
contact with the fuselage. Hold the canopy in place with
masking tape until the glue is fully cured (overnight).

❏1.Wrap the battery in 1/4" [6.4mm] R/C foam.The battery

can be installed in two different places. If you use a

light
weight engine or you do not want to explore the aft range of
the CG of this airplane, you can install it directly behind the
servos and secure it in place with a piece of scrap 1/4" x
1/2" [6.4mm x 13mm] balsa stick. If you used a heavy
engine or you plan to explore the aft range of the CG of this
airplane, install the battery in the bottom fuse behind the
hatch in the aft end of the fuselage. Use double-sided tape
and several drops of CA on the tape to secure the battery in
place. Another method to hold the batter y in place is to use
hook and loop material with one of its sides glued to the
fuselage’s bottom balsa sheeting and the other wrapping
the battery to secure it in place. In any case, you should

always use some kind of rubber padding to protect the
battery from vibration.

❏2.Wrap the receiver in 1/4" [6.4mm] R/C foam and install

it in place as shown on the plans.Use a piece of scrap 1/4"
x 1/2" [6.4mm x 13mm] balsa stick glued to the sides of the
fuselage to secure it in place.

❏3.Connect all servos, servo extensions and battery wires

to the receiver and switch. Secure critical connections with
heat shrink tubing or tape.

❏ 4. Make a small hole at the bottom fuselage sheeting.

Install a strain relief on the antenna wire and route it to the
aft part of the airplane.Use another strain relief and a small
rubber band to attach the battery to a pin in the aft area of
the fuselage or to the tail wheel.

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the

trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessar y,
adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center the control
surfaces.

Check the Control Directions

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Finish the Radio Installation

Finish the Cockpit

49

❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the

carburetor respond in the correct direction as shown in the
diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong
direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to
reverse the servos connected to those controls. Be cer tain
the control surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if
necessary.

Use a Great Planes Accu-Throw (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface
as indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not
have dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the
low rate setting.After you get used to the airplane, you may
change the throws to the “high rates”settings.

Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing
gear, covering and paint, and the radio system.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not proper ly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

IMPORTANT: The Great Planes Ultra Spor t 40 Plus has

been extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws
at which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws
will provide you with the greatest chance for successful
first flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the
way the Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus flies, you would
like to change the throws to suit your taste, that is fine.
However, too much control throw could make the model
difficult to control, so remember,

“more is not always

better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

ELEVATOR:

Low Rate High Rate 3D Rate

3/8" [10mm] up 9/16" [15mm] up 1-1/2" [38mm] up
3/8" [10mm] down 9/16" [15mm] down 1-1/2" [38mm] down

RUDDER:

Low Rate High Rate 3D Rate

1-3/4" [45mm] right 3-3/8" [85mm] r ight 4-3/4" [121mm] right
1-3/4" [45mm] left 3-3/8" [85mm] left 4-3/4" 121mm] left

AILERONS:

Low Rate High Rate 3D Rate

5/16" [8.5mm] up 7/16" [11.5mm] up 3/4" [19mm] up
5/16" [8.5mm] down 7/16" [11.5mm] down 3/4" [19mm] down

Set the Control Throws

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

(STANDARD MODE 2)

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

50

51

❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8"-wide tape to accurately mark

the C.G.on the top of the wing on both sides of the fuselage.
The C.G. is located 4-9/16" [116mm] back from the leading
edge of the wing.

❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all par ts of the

model installed (ready to fly), fully extended retracts and an
empty fuel tank, place the model upside-down on a Great
Planes CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at the balance
point you marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the

battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or
weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added
to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack
and receiver to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast
required. If additional weight is required, nose weight may
be easily added by using a “spinner weight”(GPMQ4645 for

the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (F1) (don’t attach
weight to the cowl–it is not intended to support weight).
Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts of
weight on the bottom of the fuse over the firewall (F1) until
the model balances.Once you have determined the amount
of weight required, it can be permanently attached. If
required, tail weight may be added by cutting open the
bottom of the fuse and gluing it permanently inside.

Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone
or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any

weight, recheck the C.G.after the weight has been installed.

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the

model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin.Do this several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it

means that side is heavy. Balance the air plane by adding
weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been

laterally balanced will track better in loops and other
maneuvers.

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
identification tag on page 55 and place it on or inside your
model.

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the
night before you go flying, and at other times as
recommended by the radio manufacturer.

Note: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack
is highly recommended. All battery packs, whether it’s a

Charge the Batteries

Identify Y our Model

PREFLIGHT

Balance the Model Laterally

This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G.up to 9/16" [14mm] forward or 9/16" [14mm] back to
change the flying characteristics.Moving the C.G.forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for takeoff and make it
more difficult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft
makes the model more maneuverable, but could also
cause it to become too difficult to control. In any case,
start at the recommended balance point and do not at
any time balance the model outside the specified range.

trusty pack you’ve just taken out of another model, or a new
battery pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting
the discharge capacity.Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can
be identified (and a valuable model sav ed!) b y comparing its
actual capacity to its rated capacity.Refer to the instructions
and recommendations that come with your cycler. If you
don’t own a battery cycler, perhaps you can have a friend
cycle your pack and note the capacity for you.

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,

confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly
and rapidly to full power and maintains full power­indefinitely. After you run the engine on the model, inspect
the model closely to make sure all screws remained tight,
the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods
and connectors are secure.

Ground check the operational range of your r adio bef ore the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control

surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Locate and
correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or
a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide .Therefore ,
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;the

propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your f ace and body as well as all spectators a wa y from

the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run
the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shir t
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electr ic starter to star t the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller .Make certain the
glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop
off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation.Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline
powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to the
engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a
running engine.

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Range Check

Ground Check

Balance the Propellers

52

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator.I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in
the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3.Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1.I will have completed a successful radio equipment

ground

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y
an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit
or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the F ederal

Communications

Commission.

❏ 1 Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust residue

such as the firewall (F1), wing saddle area, etc.

❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place
with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a

strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the
solder joint inside the receiver.

❏ 5. Balance your model

laterally

as explained in the

instructions.

❏ 6. Use thread locking compound to secure critical

fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor
arm (if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors,

etc.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where

appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting
screws, etc.).

❏ 10.Confirm that all controls operate in the correct

direction and the throws are set up according to
the manual.

❏ 11.Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the

clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 12.Secure connections between servo wires and

Y-connectors or serv o e xtensions , and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.

❏ 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have

used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).

❏ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with

high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or
J.B.Weld.

❏ 15.Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are

not kinked.

❏ 16. Use an incidence meter to check the wing for twists

and attempt to correct before flying.

❏ 17.Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 18.Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 19.Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 20. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and

make sure it is fully charged.

❏ 21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before

your first flight.

❏ 22.Range check your radio when you get to the

flying field.

The Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Plus is a great-flying model
that flies smoothly and predictably. The Great Planes Ultra

FLYING

During the last few moments of preparation your mind
may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first
flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to o verlook
certain checks and procedures that should be performed
before the model is flown.To help avoid this, a check list
is provided to make sure these important areas are not
overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual,
so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are
completed (that’s why it’s called a

check list!

).

CHECK LIST

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)

53

Sport 40 Plus does not, however, possess the self-recovery
characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should be flown
only by experienced R/C pilots.

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture
should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm
below peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you
will help prevent dead-stic k landings caused b y ov erheating.

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on
the ground. If necessar y, adjust the tail wheel so the model
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden flight, shut the engine down and
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then
check all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.

Remember to takeoff into the wind.When you’re ready, point
the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator
to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel steering,
then gradually advance the throttle. As the model gains
speed decrease up elevator, allowing the tail to come off the
ground. One of the most impor tant things to remember with
a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply right rudder to
counteract engine torque. If you are flying the tricycle
configuration, ground handling will be easier and the torque
reactions will not be as severe as they are on a tail dragger.
Gain as much speed as your runway and flying site will
practically allow before gently applying up elevator, lifting
the model into the air.At this moment it is likely that you will
need to apply more right rudder to counteract engine

torque. Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model
to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning
into the traffic pattern. If you are using the retract
configuration, now it is time to retract the wheels.

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude.While full throttle is usually desirable

for

takeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced

speeds.

Take it easy with the Great Planes Ultra Spor t 40 Plus for
the first few flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as
you gain confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight
and level flight.After flying around for a while, and while still
at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and
execute practice landing approaches by reducing the
throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds.Add
power to see how she climbs as well.Continue to fly around,
executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or
having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.
changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies
the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this first flight
to become familiar with your model before landing.

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. If you are using the retract configuration,
lower the retracts. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose
altitude, but maintain airspeed by k eeping the nose do wn as
you turn onto the crosswind leg.Make your final turn toward
the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the
model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle
as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to
make your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the
deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying
speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground,
regaining tail wheel control.

One final note about flying your model.Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) y ou already know, or
learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such
as on high or low rates).This is not necessarily to improve
your skills

(though it is never a bad idea!)

, but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’v e run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive.For example, if you’re going to do

Landing

Flight

Takeoff

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL

R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a
low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface

flutter

. Because flutter can quickly destroy components of
your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must
immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check
all servo grommets for deterioration (this may indicate
which surface fluttered), and make sure all pushrod
linkages are secure and free of play. If the control surface
fluttered once, it probably will flutter again under similar
circumstances unless you can eliminate the free-play or
flexing in the linkages. Here are some things which can
cause flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control
horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of
pushrod in guide tube caused by tight bends; Poor fit of
Z-bend in servo arm; Insufficient glue used when gluing in
the elevator joiner wire; Excessive

play

or

backlash

in

servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting.

Fuel Mixture Adjustments

54

a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and
make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates).
A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your
model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.

Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe

manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Make a copy of the identification tag shown below and
place it on or inside the model.

Great Planes RV-4

A natural for Sunday sport flying with a .40, the 54.65" span
RV-4 can also be an agile aerobat with a .46. Either way, it’s
a fast “build” – and a good fit – for intermediates. Precision­formed ABS parts add detail with minimum work. Under the
butyrate canopy, the cockpit includes rollover bar and
instrument panels. Performance is realistic, too, with easy
low-speed handling and dual aileron servos. Flaps can be
added, and the nylon mount adjusts to fit a wide engine
range. Requires a 2-stroke .40-.52 or 4-stroke .48-.70
engine, Pitts-style muffler , 4 or 5-channel radio w/5-7 servos
(5-channel radio w/7 servos for optional flaps).GPMA0180

Great Planes Extra 300S .40

Ideal for MiniMAC, Great Planes’ spor t-scale Extra 300S kit
requires no more experience, expense or assembly work
than the average mid-siz e sport model.It minimizes building
challenges with CAD-engineered, perfectly interlocking
parts, a photo-illustrated instruction manual and accurate,
full-size plans. The fully symmetrical wing comes with
preshaped and notched leading and trailing edges, and
D-tube construction to maximize strength. Economize by
using the engine from your .40-size sport trainer...or use a
“hot” .40 engine to fly unlimited vertical! GPMA0235

Great Planes Giles G-202 .46

Depending on your engine choice, the 59.3" span G-202
can be a docile second plane or a dynamite aerobat! Either
way, you’ll enjoy the way the G 202’s self-aligning, slot and
tab design builds up fast, straight and strong.Other features
include dual aileron servos, room for (optional) twin ele vator
servos AND longitudinal ply rails in the fuselage that absorb
touchdown stress from the included, heavy-duty aluminum
landing gear. Requires a 4-channel radio or higher w/5-6
servos, 2-stroke .46-.61 or 4-stroke .70-.91 engine and 3
rolls of MonoKote.GPMA0238

O.S.®.50 SX

There’s nothing wrong with wanting more out of aerobatics,
and the .50 SX Ring delivers it. It punches out 10% more

OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE FROM

GREAT PLANES

55

power than a .46, yet fits in the same space as a .40. It’s a
clear gain in performance AND options, for sport flying and
aerobatics, and here's why. The 1-piece remote needle
valve can be repositioned for standard upright or side
mounting and the fuel inlet rotates, for ease either way you
go.Also included: dual bearings, an #873 m uffler and 2-year
warranty. OSMG0550

O.S. FS-70 Surpass™II

Improve your fuel economy and increase your power with
the FS-70 Surpass II. It puts out an impressive 1.1
horsepower at 11,000 rpm – with all the power you need to
execute big maneuvers. Its Type 60R carb provides more
precise fuel flow control and smoother throttle control than
the original FS-70 Surpass. The FS-70 Surpass II also
features easier installation, adjustment and maintenance.
Muffler and glow plug included. Two-year warranty.

OSMG0872

Futaba®S3001 Standard Ball Bearing Servo

Futaba’s S3001 is a standard servo with nylon gears, “J”
connector and ball bearing on the output shaft. Length: 1.59
in. Width: 0.78 in. Height: 1.42 in. Weight: 1.6 oz. Torque:

33.3 oz-in (4.8V); 41.7 oz-in (6V).Transit time:0.28 sec./60°
(4.8V); 0.22 sec./60° (6V). One year warranty. FUTM0029

Futaba S9001 Aircraft Coreless Ball Bearing Servo

Ideal for airplanes, sailplanes, helis, even nitro or electric
boats, the S9001 features a coreless motor for smooth, fast
response and a final gear with dual ball bearings for fast
transit time.It comes with “J” connector, one attached servo
horn, three extra horns and mounting hardware. Length:

1.59 in. Width: 0.78 in. Height: 1.42 in. Weight: 1.69 oz.
Torque: 54.1 oz-in (4.8V); 72.2 oz-in (6V). Transit time: 0.22
sec./60° (4.8V); 0.18 sec./60° (6V). One year warranty.

FUTM0075

Great Planes .40-Size Mechanical Retracts

Simple, sensibly priced, low-profile Great Planes retracts
offer a prov en design and unique f eatures.Mounting flanges
on the nylon-reinforced composite housing conf orm to airfoil
shapes, ensuring a neat, smooth appearance.A

deployment
angle of 88° ensures virtually perfect support for wings with
0-2" dihedral. Include adjustable axles for no-bend
installation ease. Require wheel and retract servo.
Weight/retract: 5 oz. GPMQ2905

56

57

ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATE

58

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59

Note: Make a copy of
the T wo View Drawing
that appears on the
back cover page
before cutting out
this template.

TWO VIEW DRA WING

Use copies of this page to plan your trim scheme

CB

D A