Great Planes GPMA0385 User Manual
INSTRUCTION BOOK
PLEASE READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOKLET IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING
ASSEMBLY. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm
and property damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE-to build this kit
correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying gear (motor, batteries, pushrods, etc.)
and to test the model and fly it only with experienced, competent help in accordance with all
safety standards and common sense as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety
Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before you attempt
to fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL
HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
1810 Samuel Morse Dr.
Reston, VA 22090
(703) 435-0750
PO BOX 788 URBANA ILLINOIS 6180) 217/3672069
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION....................................................2
PRECAUTIONS
KEEP IT LIGHT
RADIO SELECTION
SPEED CONTROL SELECTION
BATTERY SELECTION.......................................... 3
BATTERY
PROPELLER SELECTION
OPTIONAL LANDING GEAR
SELECTION OF WHEELS
GLUES (ADHESIVES)
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
SUPPLIES & TOOLS NEEDED
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
TYPES OF WOOD
PERSPECTIVE DRAWING..................................... 5
GET READY TO BUILD
DIE PATTERN .......................................................5
FUSELAGE..........................................................................6
PREPARE FUSELAGE SIDES
ASSEMBLE FUSELAGE........................................ 9
SAND THE FUSELAGE ........................................ 12
TEMPORARILY MOUNT LANDING GEAR ........ 13
DRILL HOLE FOR TAIL SKID
CUT FIN SLOT IN FUSE TOP .............................. 13
INSTALL
INSTALL SERVO RAILS
INSTALL WING PLATE
FIN AND STABILIZER ...................................................... 15
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND
ELEVATOR
MAKE
THE HINGES
TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES
TEMPORARILY MOUNT CONTROL HORNS ..... 17
MOUNT THE STABILIZER .................................. 18
MOUNT THE FIN
WING...................................................................................20
BUILD
THE WING PANELS
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CHARGER
RUDDER
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SELECTION
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CABLE
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GUIDES
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13
13
14
14
15
15
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16
19
20
3
3
3
4
4
4
5
6
JOIN THE WING HALVES .................................. 23
2
3
3
4
4
COMPLETION.................................................................. 27
FINAL ASSEMBLY............................................................ 30
PRE-FLIGHT..................................................................... 32
FLYING .............................................................................. 34
APPENDIX ......................................................................... 34
PARTS LIST....................................................................... 39
FIBERGLASS CENTER JOINT............................ 23
MOUNT WING TO FUSELAGE
INSTALL WING FAIRING
INSTALL AILERONS .......................................... 25
INSTALL AILERON SERVO AND HORNS ........ 26
MAKE
THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD
MAKE
THE AILERON PUSHRODS
PREDICT THE FINISHED
FLYING WEIGHT................................................ 28
INSTALL VELCRO .............................................. 29
BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY ......... 29
FINAL SANDING
COVERING.......................................................... 29
ADD TRIM
INSTALL ALL COMPONENTS ........................... 30
BALANCE YOUR MODEL
FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS
CHARGE
TEST THE MOTOR OPERATION
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY
GROUND
RANGE
MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
AMA SAFETY CODE
PROPER CARE OF YOUR GOLDFIRE
MOTOR................................................................ 34
OVERLOADS
HOW TO ACHIEVE TO BEST
PERFORMANCE FROM YOUR ELECTRIC-
POWERED MODEL............................................. 35
THE BATTERIES
CHECK THE MODEL
CHECK
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YOUR RADIO
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34
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes ElectroStreak! Tom Stryker's original design for this
airplane was first featured in the November, 1987 issue of Model
Aviation magazine. We built this airplane "just for the fun of it",
and we were so impressed with its performance on our standard
"Thrustmaster" motor, we knew it would be a success as a kit!
During the testing process, the new Goldfire motor was developed, and we found this motor to be ideally suited for the
ElectroStreak, due to its tremendous power.
This is one of the very few easy to build electricpowered airplanes in kit form that really does provide exciting and
satisfying acrobatic performance without the need for expensive
cobalt motors or exotic building materials. It is a very smooth and
stable flier, yet it will perform all basic pattern maneuvers, such
as rolls, inside and outside loops, snap rolls, spins, inverted flight,
Immelmans, hammerheads, Cuban 8's, and many others.
While not a beginner's plane, the ElectroStreak is great
for the intermediate or advanced flyer who wants real performance, with the quiet convenience of electric power.
Please Inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this airplane,
please call us at (217) 367-2069 and we'll be glad to help. If you
are calling for replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on the end
of the carton) and have them ready when calling.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the plans and
Instructions. Do not alter or modify the model as represented by
the plans, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable modeL
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
2
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition, the correct size motor and correct components
(wheels, etc) throughout your building process.
4 You must properly install all R/C and other compo-
nents so that the model operates properly on the ground.
5 You must test the operation of the model before the
first and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
operating and you must make certain that the model has remained
structurally sound.
6. You must fly the model only with competent help
from a well experienced R/C pilot if you are not already an
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with
a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality
and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build
it, therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations are expressed or
implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
SPEED CONTROL SELECTION
You must equip your ElectroStreak with some type of
motor control to enable you to turn the motor on and off with the
transmitter The best way to accomplish this is by installing an
electronic speed control, which provides fully proportional
control of the motor speed You should choose a speed control
that is capable of handling at least 25 Amps of continuous current.
It is not necessary to have fully proportional speed
control in this airplane Instead, you may prefer the simplicity
(and cost savings) of a simple on-off switch, activated by a 4th
micro servo To accomplish this you may purchase a micro
switch or toggle switch (from an electronics supply store, such as
Radio Shack) and mount it to the "throttle" servo using doublestick tape.
NOTE: Many electronic speed controls have a built-in safety
feature which acts like a circuit breaker in case of an overload due
to a short circuit or a stalled propeller, however, if you are using
a simple switch system, you should install a 20 or 25 amp fuse in
your switch harness to protect the electrical components and to
prevent fire or explosion in the event of an overload
BATTERY SELECTION
KEEP IT LIGHT!
Because the electric motor and motor battery are relatively heavy, and because electric motors do not produce as much
thrust as glow engines (when compared to their weight), it is
essential that the basic structure of the airplane be kept as light
as possible In doing so, you will help insure that the finished
airplane will not be too heavy to fly well.
One way to prevent excess weight build-up is to use
only as much glue as needed for good glue joints Do not apply
extra "fillets" of glue thinking that it will make your plane
stronger' All that extra glue adds ounces to the weight of your
plane, and will detract from the performance.
In order to help you build a light airplane, many parts
in this kit are made from soft balsa Because the wood is soft, it
does not die cut cleanly and it dents easily Therefore, you will
have to do a little more sanding on the edges of the die cut parts
before using them, and you may have to fill a few more dents and
"dings". The soft balsa is also more fragile, so use a little extra care
to avoid damaging the parts.
We will give you tips throughout this book on how to
keep the structure light, and we urge you to follow them.
In order to give the ElectroStreak sufficient power to
perform large acrobatic maneuvers, we strongly recommend that
you use a good quality 7 cell nicad battery pack for motor power.
The individual cells in the battery pack should be "low impedance", which means that they are capable of delivering high
current to the motor (Sanyo SCR cells, for example)
If you choose a 7-cell 1200 mAh battery pack, it should
be a "flat" pack, such as the "Kyosho Turbo Racing Battery"
You can cut several ounces from the flying weight of
your ElectroStreak, thereby improving performance, by using a
7 cell 800 mAh battery pack The major disadvantage is that
flight times will be reduced to only 2 or 2-1/2 minutes (continu-
ous motor run).
BATTERY CHARGER SELECTION
You may use any of the commercially available battery
chargers that are designed for charging 7 cell nicad battery packs.
Some chargers have a "peak detector" which sense when the
battery is fully charged and automatically shut off at the right
time Some chargers operate from 110 volt house current, 12 volt
DC (automobile battery), 01 both For convenience, we recommend a "fast charger" that will charge a 7-cell 1200 mAh battery
pack m approximately 20 minutes.
RADIO SELECTION
Because the ElectroStreak is optimized for light weight,
you must use a radio system with "micro" servos and a 225 mAh
flight pack battery Our prototype uses a Futaba radio with three
S33 servos and a Robart HQ500 electronic speed control The
radio equipment you choose must be small and lightweight.
PROPELLER SELECTION
We tested several different propellers on the ElectroStreak, and found the G rish Tornado 7x6 nylon prop to be a very
good all around choice An 8x4 prop provides a little more thrust
on takeoff, but the 7x6 gives more speed and better overall
performance Wood props break very often when this airplane is
"belly landed", so they are not recommended unless you are using
the landing gear.
3
OPTIONAL LANDING GEAR
Parts are included in the ElectroStreak kit for a wire
landing gear and tail skid The landing gear adds a little weight
and drag, thereby reducing overall performance slightly, therefore, if you want maximum performance, do not install the
landing gear.
If you will be landing your plane on a hard surface, such
as blacktop, concrete or gravel, you should install the landing
gear or nylon skids on the belly to prevent damage to the fuselage.
If your flying site has a smooth grass surface, belly
landings are no problem, and (usually) result in no damage to the
fuselage or nylon propeller.
SELECTION OF WHEELS
If you plan to install a landing gear, we strongly recommend that you choose wheels that are both lightweight and
aerodynamically clean We have used Williams Bros #127
wheels with good success. If you use lightweight foam rubber
wheels, you should round the edges of the wheels with sandpaper
to reduce drag
GLUES (ADHESIVES)
SUPPLIES & TOOLS NEEDED
2 oz - Thin CA Adhesive
1/2 oz - Thick CA Adhesive
Instant Glue Accelerator (optional)
2.5 oz - 30 Minute Epoxy
2 oz Aliphatic Resin (Titebond. etc.)
Hand or Electnc Drill
Drill Bits (1/16', 5/64", 3/32", 5/32", 11/64", 13/64")
Sealing Iron (for covering)
Heat Gun (optional, for shrinking covering)
Soldering Iron
Hobby Saw (X Acto Razor Saw)
X-Acto Knife, #11 Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
Flat File
T-Pins (small)
Straightedge or Ruler
Masking Tape
Sandpaper (80, 100, 220 and 400 grit)
T-Bar Sanding Block, or similar
Waxed Paper
Lightweight Balsa Filler
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS BOOK AND
ON THE PLANS:
You may build this entire airplane using CA (Cyanoacrylate) adhesive Thin CA runs right into a good fitting joint,
so you can assemble the parts first, then apply thin CA Thick CA
is more like syrup and it will not harden until you press the two
parts together squeezing the glue out to a thin layer A related
and very handy product is CA Accelerator spray (Zip Kicker or
Hot Shot), and is used to instantly harden CA glue When using
CA glues "trial fit" the parts to make sure they fit well before
gluing because they don't give you a second chance The most
common mistake made by new modelers is using loo much CA
glue Rather than squeezing the bottle, it is usually sufficient to
touch the tip of the applicator spout to the joint being glued and
allow a few drops of CA to flow into the joint.
There may be a couple of instances during construction
of this model in which a small amount of Aliphatic Resin or
Epoxy adhesive will make construction easier. The amounts
required will be very small, however.
In any case, a "glob" of glue is not a substitute for a good-
fitting joint' Take the time to sand the parts until they fit well, then
a small amount of glue will do the job.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Radio, Speed control or Switch, Batteries (See above
comments on these items)
2- 1-1/2" Diameter Main Wheels
4- 1/8" Wheel Collars
Iron-on Covering Matenal (Super Monokote, Black
Baron Film or equivalent)
Roll of 1/16" x 1/4" self adhesive foam wing seating tape
(Sonictronics #230)
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" =Inches
TYPES OF WOOD
BALSA
Study the perspective drawing on page 5 to become
familiar with the parts of the ElectroStreak
4
GET READY TO BUILD
D 1. Unroll the plan sheet. Re-roll it inside out to make it lie
flat. NOTE: If you have a small work area, you may cut the plan
into two sections, "wing" and "fuselage".
D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the
name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts list.
Using a felt tip pen, write the part name or size on each piece to
avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown below to
identify the die-cut parts and mark them before punching out. Save
DIE PATTERNS
all scraps. If any of the die-cutparts are difficult to punch out, do not
force them! Instead, first cut around the parts with an Xacto knife.
NOTE: After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or
sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin & stab (stabilizer), and
hardware.
5
FUSELAGE
PREPARE FUSELAGE SIDES
D 1. Lay a 6" x 6" piece of waxed paper on the plan
in the area where the front and rear fuse sides join, to
protect the plan.
D 2. Lay a die-cut 3/32" balsa fuse side front and fuse
side rear on the plan and carefully line them up along the
bottom edge. Apply thin CA glue to the joint, then apply
thick CA glue to fill any gaps. Sand the joint smooth using
a T-bar sander with 100-grit sandpaper.
of waxed paper between the fuse sides to prevent gluing
them together. Sand the Lt. fuse side joint smooth.
D 5. Remove the waxed paper, put the two fuse sides
together and line them up at the front and the bottom
edges. Then check to make sure they are exactly the same
all the way around. Sand the edges as necessary until the
two fuse sides match. It is especially important that the
overall length be the same. so sand the tail end as necessary.
D 6. Lay the two fuse sides flat on the table, with the
straight portion of the bottom edges touching at the front
half. Then, using a straightedge and a pen, extend the
former location lines onto the fuse side that does not have
them. Also, mark the 2nd. fuse side, "Lt. inside".
D 3. While the fuse side is still in place on the plan,
use a straightedge and a pen to mark the locations of
formers F-3 and F-4 only. Note that we have extended the
former lines above and below the fuse for your convenience. Mark this fuse side "Rt. Inside".
D 4. Glue the left fuse side halves together by care-
fully positioning them on the right fuse side. Use a piece
D 7. Glue the 1/8" x 1/8" x 30" balsa stringers to the
inside of the fuse sides, along the bottom. The stringers
begin at the front edge of F-3. Trim the stringers even with
the aft end of the fuse sides.
LANDING GEAR NOTE: If you have decided to install a landing
gear, you will now install the Lt. & Rt. LG Doublers. However.
even if you do not plan to use a landing gear, you may wish to install
these doublers anyway, in case you change your mind later. (The
extra fuselage parts required for the LG will add 1/4 oz.).
6
D 8. Strengthen the inside surface of the fuse sides in
the area of the LG wires by applying thick CA and spreading
it smooth with waxed paper.
D 11. Glue the 1 /8" x 1 /8" x 7/8 " hardwood filler to the
Lt. fuse side, along the front edge of F-3. NOTE: The
bottom end of this filler must be 1/16" above the bottom edge
of the fuse side, and there must be a 1/8" gap between the
filler and the LG doubler for the LG wire.
D 12. Using a razor saw, cut one of the 1/2" x 24" balsa
triangles into two 6-1/8" lengths and two 5-7/8" lengths.
D 9. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply Rt. LG doubler to the Rt.
fuse side. The bottom edge of the doubler is even with the
bottom of the fuse side, and there must be a 1/8" gap in front
of F-3.
D 10. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply Lt. LG doubler to the Lt.
fuse side. The bottom edge of the doubler is even with the
bottom of the fuse side, and there must be a 1/4" gap in front
of
F-3.
D 13. Glue the 5-7/8" long triangles to the inside of the
fuse sides along the bottom, from the front of F-3 forward to
the front of the fuse sides. Note that the triangle is angled
in relation to the bottom edge of the fuse side (see the fuse
plan side view). NOTE: If you have installed the 1/8" ply
LG doublers, run the triangles from the front of the doublers
forward.
D 14. Using your razor saw, cut slots in the 6-1/8"
lengths of 1/2" triangle, to permit bending. Then glue these
triangles to the fuse sides along the top edge, beginning at the
rear edge of F-3 and extending forward to the front of the
fuse sides.
(See
Steps
l5
and 16
at
the top of page
8.)
7
D 15. Trim and sand the balsa triangles even with the
front of the fuse sides.
D 16. Sand off the bottom triangles even with the bottom
edge of the fuse sides.
D 17. Glue the remaining two 1/2" x 24" balsa triangles
to the fuse sides along the top edge, beginning at the front
edge of F-4, and extending to the aft end of the fuselage.
NOTE: Sand the front end of the balsa triangles to an angle
so they line up with the front edge of F-4. NOTE: The
triangles extend into the stabilizer saddle area and will later
be sanded even with the stab saddle.
D 18. Trim and sand the balsa triangles even with the aft
end of the fuse sides.
D 23. Trim the ends of the battery compartment doubler
to fit between the rear of F-3 and the front of F-4.
D 24. Mark the outline of the wing saddle on the battery
compartment doubler, then trim the doubler to this outline
using an Xacto knife.
D 19. Find the two 1/16" x 3" x 15" balsa sheets. Select
the sheet that has the softest balsa, and use it in the next steps.
D 20. Using an Xacto knife and a straightedge, cut the
1/16" x 3" x 15" balsa sheet into 6 pieces, each having a length
of 2-l/2".
D 21. Edge glue three of these pieces together to make
the battery compartment doubler.
GLUE GLUE
2-1/2-
D 22. Sand smooth, and sand one long edge straight,
using your T-bar.
D 25. Glue the doubler to the fuse side in the following
manner: apply thick CA to the doubler, press the doubler in
place, then apply thin CA around the edges.
D 26. Repeat steps 21-25 to make and install the other
battery compartment doubler.
-FUSE SIDE
—1/2" TRIANGLE
1/4"
REMOVE THIS
PORTION
D 27. At the aft ends of the fuse sides, sand the triangles
to a taper as shown in the sketch and photo. This will enable
the tail end to be pulled together and will provide a strong
base for the stabilizer and fin.
8
D 28. Spread a couple drops of thick CA on the battery
compartment doublers in the area of the servo rails and wing
hold-down plate. Use a piece of waxed paper to spread it
smooth.
view, working on a flat surface and glue the Lt. fuse side to
F-3 and F-4. NOTE: The bottom edges of the fuse sides
must be down on the flat surface during this step.
ASSEMBLE FUSELAGE
D 1. Trial fit the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F-3 and F-4.
You may have to sand the top comers slightly to make the
formers fit perfectly. (Remove only a very small amount at
a time).
D
4.
Trial
fity our electric
motor
through the hole in
F-
2. Sand the hole as necessary for a snug fit (Use a piece of
sandpaper wrapped around a dowel). NOTE: If the motor
label gives you problems when fitting, you may want to peel
off the label.
D 5. Note that we have punched the locations of the two
screw holes in F-l. Drill 1/8" holes at these two locations.
Be sure to use a wood backing when drilling to prevent
damaging the part you are drilling.
D 6. Mount F-1 onto the front of the motor with the two
M3 x 6 metric screws.
D 2. Glue F-3 and F-4 to the Rt. fuse side. Use a square
to make sure these formers are installed at right angles
(perpendicular) to the fuse side.
D 3. Place the fuselage upright on the fuselage top
M3x6 SCREW
D 7. With F-1 mounted to the motor and F-2 positioned
9
on the motor as shown in the fuse plan side view, trial fit this
assembly into the front of the fuse. Pull the fuse sides
together over the formers and note the fit. If it is necessary
to sand the comers of F-1 for a perfect fit, you must also sand
the top comers of F-2 an equal amount, to maintain the
correct down-thrust angle. NOTE: Remove the formers
from the motor while sanding, to avoid getting pieces of
wood inside the motor. NOTE: When trial fitting, notice
that the right fuse side protrudes in front of F-1. This is
normal, due to the built-in right thrust. You will later sand
everything off even with the front of F-l.
D 8. Holding the motor, F-l and F-2 in place, glue F-l
and F-2 to the fuse sides with thin CA. (Do not glue the
motor to the formers!) Then remove the motor and
reinforce the glue joints by adding thick CA.
D 9. Align the front half of the fuse on the plan (top
view) and hold it down with weights.
NOTE: This sheeting begins at the front of F-4 and ends at the front
of the stab saddle area (trim as necessary).
D 13. From the 1/16" x 3" x l5" hard balsa sheet, cut five
2-1/2" lengths. Edge glue these pieces together as shown.
Then sand smooth on both sides with your T-bar and 100-grit
sandpaper.
D 10. Pull the aft ends of the fuse sides together, align
with the plans, and glue the triangles together. NOTE: If,
when pulling the fuse sides together, you notice that one side
seems stiff er than the other, you may make a few vertical cuts
in the triangle on the stiff side to "soften" it up and allow it
to bend to the same curvature as the other side.
D 11. Using a T-bar or sanding block, sand the top edges
of formers F-l, F-2, F-3 and F-4 even with the top of the balsa
triangle stringers. Also sand the top of the triangle stringers
even with the top edge of the fuse sides, and to remove any
rough glue joints.
D 14. Glue this sheeting to the bottom of the fuse,
beginning at the front of F-l.
D 15. From one of the 1/16" x 3" x 18" soft balsa sheets
(the other two are used in the wing), cut seven 2-1/2" lengths.
Edge glue these pieces together as shown.
Then sand smooth on both sides with your T-bar and 100-grit
sandpaper.
D 12. Glue the 3/32" balsa top rear sheeting in place.
D 16. Glue this sheeting to the bottom of the fuse from
10
F-4 to the aft end. NOTE: If you are planning to install the
landing gear,do not sheet the aft 9/16" of the fuse bottom.
D 17. Trim and sand the cross-grain bottom sheeting
even with the fuse sides.
D 20. Cut a 1/4" wide slot in the bottom sheeting for the
landing gear. NOTE: This slot is approximately 5-1/2 to 5-
3/4" back from the front of F-1. You may push a pin through
the bottom sheeting in a few places to "find" the correct slot
location before cutting.
FRONT
DOUBLER
REAR
DOUBLER
D 18. If you are installing a landing gear, glue the die-cut
1/16" ply front and rear LG doublers to the 1/16" ply LG
top plate.
D 21. Trial fit the 1/8" wire landing gear wires into the
LG slot. File the slot as necessary for a good fit.
D 22. At this time, before you close up the front of the
fuse, make a final check of the motor fit through F-2. You
should be able to readily slide the motor into place from the
rear, but it should fit rather snugly. If the motor is loose in
F-2 it will result in a noisy vibration when the motor is
running. You can tighten it up by coating the inside hole in
F-2 with a thin layer of thick CA glue. If it is too tight, use
sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to enlarge the hole
slightly.
D 19. Trial fit the LG plate/doubler assembly in place in the
fuselage, sanding and filing as necessary for a good fit, then
glue in place. NOTE: The slot between the front and rear
LG doublers must be down.
D 23. Glue the 3/32" balsa top front sheeting in place.
NOTE: This piece has been cut slightly oversize to allow
extra for trimming.
11
D 24. Sand all balsa parts flat and even with the front of
F-l. Also sand the rear edge of the fuse top front even with
the rear edge of F-3.
25. Glue the four layers of the balsa nose block
D
together, alternating the grain direction at each layer (you are
making balsa "plywood"). NOTE: Use thin CA to achieve
good penetration, making a hard and durable nose block.
After the glue has hardened, sand the inside of the openings
with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel.
D 26. Glue the laminated nose block to the front of the
fuse. NOTE: The layer having vertical grain should be in
the front. NOTE: If you are installing a landing gear (and
tail skid), perform steps 27 and 28 now.
SAND THE FUSELAGE
D 1. Carefully sand the vertical grain balsa battery
compartment doublers even with the fuse sides in the wing
saddle area.
D 27. Cut a scrap of 1/8 " ply (from die-cutting scrap) to
fit snugly between the 1/8" x 1/8" balsa stringers at the aft
end of the fuse. Glue in place.
D 28. Glue the die-cut 1/16" ply tail skid plate to the
bottom of the fuse at the aft end. Then sand the tail skid parts
even with the fuse sides and fuse tail end.
12
2. Note that the 1/2" balsa triangle stringers protrude
D
above the fuse sides in the stab saddle area. Sand these
triangles down even with the fuse sides in the stab saddle
area.
3. Study the cross-section drawings of the formers
D
and cross-sections "E-E" and "F-F" to get a "feel" for how
much sanding will have to be done on the fuselage to produce
the correct shapes. Now use a sanding block with coarse
(#50 or #80 grit) sandpaper to sand the fuselage to its
approximately final shape.
4. Change to progressively finer grades of sandpaper
D
to achieve the final shape and smoothness. If you cut a long,
narrow strip (1" x 10") of 400-grit sandpaper and use it like
a "shoe-shine cloth" on the top of the fuse, you will be
surprised at the uniformity and smoothness that can be
achieved.
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