Great Planes GPMA0238 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, the
modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.

GIL6P03 V1.0© Copyright 1999

P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 [phone]

WWW.GREATPLANES.COM

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

USA

MADE IN

Safety Precautions............................................................................................2

Introduction .......................................................................................................2

Precautions........................................................................................................3

Decisions You Must Make.................................................................................3

Engine Selection.........................................................................................3

Exhaust System..........................................................................................3

Preparations.......................................................................................................3

Required Accessories.................................................................................3

Building Supplies and Tools........................................................................4

Optional Tools or Accessories.....................................................................4

Building Notes ............................................................................................5

Get Ready to Build .....................................................................................5

Inch/Metric Ruler & Conversions................................................................5

Die-Cut Patterns.........................................................................................6

Build the Tail Surfaces......................................................................................7

Build the Stab..............................................................................................7

Build the Fin................................................................................................8

Build the Rudder.........................................................................................9

Building the Elevator.................................................................................10

Hinge the Tail Surfaces.............................................................................10

Finish the Tail Surfaces.............................................................................11

Build the Wing .................................................................................................11

Assemble the Wing Sheeting....................................................................11

Build the Wing Spars.................................................................................11

Build the Wing Panels ..............................................................................12

Sheet the Wing Panel Center Section......................................................14

Join the Wing Panels................................................................................16

Finish the Top of the Wing ........................................................................17

Finish the Ailerons....................................................................................19

Build the Fuselage ..........................................................................................20

Assemble the Fuselage Formers & Sides ................................................20

Assemble the Fuselage............................................................................21

Assemble the Belly Pan............................................................................22

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage...............................................................22

Finish the Bottom of the Fuselage............................................................24

Install the Pushrod & Antenna Tubes........................................................25

Installing the Tank Tray & Servo Tray.......................................................26

Build the Front Fuselage Deck .................................................................27

Mount the Stabilizer to the Fuselage........................................................28

Mount the Fin to the Fuselage..................................................................29

Build the Turtle Deck ................................................................................29

Finish the Cockpit.....................................................................................31

Mount the Engine .....................................................................................31

Install the Servos & Make the Pushrods...................................................32

Assemble & Install the Tank......................................................................34

Assemble the Wheel Pants.......................................................................35

Assemble the Cowl...................................................................................37

Balance the Model Laterally...........................................................................38

Prepare the Model for Covering.....................................................................38

Cover the Model with MonoKote

®

Film..........................................................39

Covering Technique..................................................................................39

Suggested Covering Sequence................................................................39

Paint the Model................................................................................................39

Final Hookups & Checks ................................................................................40

Attach the Control Surfaces......................................................................40

Install the Hardware..................................................................................41

Final Servo & Receiver Installation...........................................................41

Set the Control Throws.............................................................................42

Install the Cowl & Canopy.........................................................................43

Balance Y our Model..................................................................................43

Preflight............................................................................................................44

Charge the Batteries.................................................................................44

Balance the Propeller ...............................................................................44

Find a Safe Place to Fly ..........................................................................45

Ground Check the Model..........................................................................45

Range Check Your Radio.........................................................................45

Engine Safety Precautions .......................................................................45

AMA Safety Code (excerpt)............................................................................45

General.....................................................................................................45

Radio Control............................................................................................46

Flying................................................................................................................46

Takeoff......................................................................................................46

Flying........................................................................................................46

Landing.....................................................................................................47

Appendix: Flight Trimming.............................................................................47

Flight Trimming Chart.....................................................................................49

Flight Log.........................................................................................................51

2-View Drawing..................................................................................Back Page

Fuse & Wing Plans......................................................Center Pull-Out Section

Your Giles G-202 is not a toy, but a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like an actual airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, the Giles, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.

If this is your first low-wing sport model, we

recommend

that you get help from an experienced, knowledgeable
modeler with your first flights. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to solo.
Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in
your area whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You may also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered
clubs across the country. Contact the AMA at the address
or toll-free phone number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

Designed and Engineered by Michael Cross
Instruction Manual by Michael and AnnMarie Cross

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes Giles G-202. We’d like to provide you a bit of history
on our selection of this aircraft as the newest release in the
Great Planes scale aerobatic line.

Richard Giles noted a trend in the International Aerobatic
Club (I.A.C.) competition arena toward bigger, heavier,
more costly “super monoplanes,” and he wanted to do
better. The resulting “full-scale” Giles G-200 and G-202
were designed specifically to be reasonably priced, low
wing loading, unlimited level performers on reasonably
priced 4-cylinder engines. Likewise, the Great Planes Giles
G-202 is intended to provide you unlimited level
competition performance with a low wing loading and a
reasonably priced power plant.

We’re honored to be able to feature Mr. Bob Stark’s 1998
Giles G-202 color scheme here on our Giles G-202. Mr.
Stark is an avid I.A.C. competitor, judge and president of
his I.A.C. chapter. Mr. Stark began competing at the
advanced level in 1997, and in 1998 he and his Giles
G-202 earned a position on the US Advanced Aerobatic
Team, striving for the 1999 Advanced World Champion title.

INTRODUCTION

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THIS

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

The first time we laid eyes on Mr. Stark’s color scheme, we
found it striking and exceptional for model competition.
When asked about its development, he told us that many,
many hours and 24 months of color schemes displayed
throughout his home led to the selection of the “dramatic
contrast between the bright yellow and the deep blue” and
that his primary concerns were “eye appeal on the ramp

and visibility in the air. I wanted a plane that would look like
a winner sitting on the ramp and one that the judges could
see from any angle in any light.” He feels he succeeded

with his line-setting broad straight stripes for easy judging
and bright contrasts. We agree.

The Giles is a rather “square shaped” airplane with well
defined lines. Coincidentally, this makes it exceptionally
easy to build and cover–especially for a semi-scale sport
model. Framing the model is very straightforward, as most
of the structure features interlocking balsa and lite-ply. The
turtle deck sheeting may look a little intimidating but in
actuality it is quite easy to apply if you follow the
instructions.

Flying the Giles G-202 is a thrilling experience–as it should
be for such an aerobatic model! It doesn’t take much
elevator or aileron throw to put the Giles through its paces.
When you have a feel for your Giles G-202, the throws can
be increased to high rates (illustrated in the instructions) to
really showcase the aerobatic potential. The Giles performs
surprisingly well on a ball bearing, schnuerle ported .46,
and even better on a .61 2-stroke, but seasoned experts
will want to get the most out of the Giles by strapping on a
.91 4-stroke.

We hope you enjoy building and flying your Great Planes
Giles G-202 as much as we did the prototypes.

1. Build the model according to the plans and

instructions. Do
not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances, the written instructions should be considered
as correct.

2. Take the time to build straight, true and strong.

3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition,
and a correctly-sized engine and components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc.), throughout the building process.

4. Properly install all components so that the model
operates properly on the ground and in the air.

5. Check the operation of the model before every flight to
ensure that all equipment is operating correctly and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
nylon clevises or other connectors often and replace them if
they show signs of wear or fatigue.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you must
fly the model only with the help of a competent, well
experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions
to end up with a well-built model that is straight and
true. Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone] or e-mail us at
[e-mail] and we’ll be glad to
help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please
reference the part numbers and the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.

❏ Four (+) channel radio with five or six servos (twin

aileron servos required, twin elevator servos optional)

Items in parentheses (GPMQ4243) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops
and are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the
Great Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite®brand, and

HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

Required Accessories

PREPARATIONS

Engine Selection

There are several engines that will work well in your Giles G-202,
but for unlimited performance we recommend a hot 2-stroke such
as an O.S.

®

.61FX (OSMG0561) or SuperTigre®G61

(SUPG0181). If you prefer a 4-stroke, an O.S. .70 Surpass

™

(OSMG0870) works well and the O.S. .91 Surpass (OSMG0895)

makes unlimited vertical lines a part of every flight experience.

Note: Please see the “Flying” section regarding flutter, propeller
selection and aerobatic performance.

Exhaust System

If you choose to use a 2-stroke engine, you will need an in-cowl
muffler for the best appearance. On our prototype Giles G-202 with
the O.S. .61FX, we used the Slimline #3217 Pitts Muffler
(SLIG2217). With the O.S. Surpass .70 and Surpass .91, we
used the stock exhaust included with the engines, and a Hobbico

®

Exhaust Deflector (HCAP2175).

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.

PRECAUTIONS

3

❏ (1) Y-harness (HCAM2500 for Futaba

®

) or (2) 12"

servo ex

tensions (HCAM1200 for Futaba) and

computerized radio

Optional radio equipment:

❏ (1) 18" servo extension for rear rudder

mounting location

❏

6th servo, computerized radio and either a Y-harness

or (2) 12" servo extensions for dual elevator servos

❏ Engine – See Engine Selection page 3
❏ Exhaust – See Exhaust System page 3
❏ Spare glow plugs [O.S. #8 for most 2-stroke engines,

(OSMG2691), O.S. Type-F for most 4-stroke engines,
(OSMG2629)]

❏ Propeller (Top Flite Power Point

®

); Refer to your

engine’s

instructions for proper size. Note: We recommend

staying with a six pitch and the appropriate
diameter for your engine to optimize aerobatic
performance on this model

❏ Top Flite Super MonoKote

®

covering (approx. 3 rolls)

– See Covering (page 39)

❏ Fuelproof paint, See Painting (page 39)
❏ Fuel tank 10 oz. (GPMQ4104)
❏ 3' Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ Nylon reinforced packing tape
❏ 1/4" Latex foam rubber padding (HCAQ1000)
❏ (2) 2-1/2" Wheels (GPMQ4223)
❏ (1) 3/4" Tailwheel (GPMQ4240)
❏ (1) 3/16" Wheel collar (GPMQ4308)
❏ 3" Spinner (GPMQ4530, White)
❏ Pilot (DGA 1/4 scale sportsman pilot used in protype,

DGAQ2010)

❏ Fueling system [Great Planes Easy Fueler

™

, (

GPMQ4160)

or Aluminum Fuel Line Plug, (GPMQ4166)]

❏ 12" Velcro

™

non-adhesive backed hook and loop

material

These are the building tools, glue, etc., that we recommend
and mention in the manual.

We recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy.

❏ 2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)
❏ 2 oz. Pro CA+ (Medium, GPMR6009)
❏ 1 oz. Pro CA- (Thick, GPMR6014)
❏ 2 oz. Pro CA accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ 6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue (PAAR3300)
❏ Hobby knife [handle (HCAR0105), #11 Blades

(HCAR0311), 100 Qty.]

❏ X-ACTO

®

Razor Saw (XACR2531)

❏ Pliers (Common and Needle Nose)
❏ Screwdrivers (phillips and flat blade)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Medium T-pins (HCAR5150)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
❏ Groove Tube

™

(GPMR8140)

❏ HobbyLite

™

balsa colored filler (HCAR3401)

❏ Bondo

®

or Squadron white putty

❏ Monofilament line for aligning wing & stabilizer
❏ Builder’s triangle set (HCAR0480)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap (GPMR8105, drill bit included)
❏ Soldering iron and solder
❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏ CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Dead Center

™

engine mount hole locator

(GPMP8130)

❏ AccuThrow

™

deflection meter (GPMR2405)

❏ Hand or electric power drill
❏ Drill bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 5/32", #18 or

11/64", 3/16", #10 or 13/64", 7/32", 1/4", 17/64"

❏ Bar sander or sanding block and sandpaper (coarse,

medium, fine grit)

Made of durable, lightweight aluminum, Easy-Touch
Sanders have a uniquely contoured handle that lets you
work longer with less fatigue! The incredibly flat sanding
surface removes high spots with ease. The 5.5" Hand
Sander is ideal for small parts and tight spaces. Use the
11" - 44" Bar Sanders for larger areas. Take the

guesswork
out of sanding curved or angled shapes with the
Easy-Touch Multi-Sander. Available in 11" and 22"

lengths.
Easy-Touch adhesive-backed sandpaper is already
trimmed to these tools’ width...just cut it to length and
press in place. Available in 4 different grits.

GPMR6169 Easy-Touch Hand Sander-5.5"
GPMR6170 Easy-Touch Bar Sander-11"
GPMR6172 Easy-Touch Bar Sander-22"
GPMR6174 Easy-Touch Bar Sander-33"
GPMR6176 Easy-Touch Bar Sander-44"
GPMR6190 Easy Touch Multi-Sander-11"
GPMR6191 Easy Touch Multi-Sander-22"
GPMR6180 Easy-Touch 80-Grit Sandpaper-12' roll
GPMR6183 Easy-Touch 150-Grit Sandpaper-12' roll
GPMR6184 Easy-Touch 180-Grit Sandpaper-12' roll
GPMR6185 Easy-Touch 220-Grit Sandpaper-12' roll

❏ CAApplicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Epoxy mixing sticks (GPMR8055, Qty. 50)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)

Optional Tools or Accessories

Building Supplies and Tools

4

❏ Clevis installation tool (GPMR8030)
❏ Heat gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Trim Seal Tool

™

(TOPR2200)

❏ Tack Cloth (TOPR2185)
❏ Hot Sock

™

(TOPR2175)

❏ Razor plane (MASR1510)
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0312, 100 Qty.)
❏ 36" Non-slip straightedge (HCAR0475)
❏ Denatured or isopropyl alcohol (for epoxy clean-up)
❏ Dremel

®

Moto-Tool®or similar w/sanding drum, cutting

burr and cut-off wheel

❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)

There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a

length. For example #6 x 3/4"

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch and a length. For example 4-40 x 3/4"

When you see the term “test fit” in the instructions, it means
you should first position the part on the assembly without
using any glue, then slightly modify or “custom fit” the part as
necessary for the best fit. Do not glue until told to do so.

When you see the term “fit” in the instructions, it means you
should first position the part on the assembly without using
any glue, then modify or “custom fit” the part as necessary for
the best fit. Glue when you are satisfied with the fit.

Whenever just “epoxy” is specified you may use either 30-
minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is
specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30-
minute epoxy because you will need the working time and/or
the additional strength.

Where you see the term “glue,” it is at your option to select the
thickness of CA with which you are most comfortable. If the
step indicates a particular thickness of glue, be sure to use the
thickness recommended for strength, penetration, and/or
working time.

Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we tell you to “glue the top main
spar” or “trim the bottom of the former.” It is understood that
the “top” or “bottom” of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right-side up and will be referred to as the “top”
even if the model is being worked on upside-down (i.e. the
“top” main spar is always the “top” main spar even when the
wing is being built upside-down).

❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out to

make them lie flat.

❏ 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the

name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts
list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or ballpoint pen, lightly
write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion
later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on page 6 to identify the
die-cut parts and mark them before removing them from the
sheet. Save all leftovers. If any of the die-cut parts are
difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead, cut around
the parts with a hobby knife. After punching out the die-cut
parts, use your bar sander to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities or slivers.

❏ 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into

groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer)
and hardware.

Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store small parts
as you sort, identify and separate them into sub-

assemblies.

Get Ready to Build

Building Notes

5

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

Metric Conversions

1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm

1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm

1/4" = 6.4 mm
3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm

1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm

6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm

6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

You may remove the stabilizer and elevator drawing from
the wing plan by cutting along the dashed line. Don’t forget
to cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector so the
glue won’t stick to the plan.

While the placement of the outer framing of any stick-built
part is important, the exact placement of the internal ribs
is not so critical. It is more important to have the ribs fit
properly between the framework and have strong, secure
glue joints than to have them placed in an exact location.
If you need to slide an internal rib up or down as much as
1/8" within the Giles’ tail framework to gain a snug fit and
a strong glue joint, feel free to do so.

Note: Be sure to save all of the leftover pieces from
building the stabilizer. These pieces will be utilized in
constructing the fin. Construction photos are shown off
the plans for clarity.

❏ 1. Pin the die-cut 3/16" balsa stab LE brace in position

over the plan. Fit and glue the die-cut 3/16" balsa stab

center.

❏ 2. Position the 3/16" x 3/16" x 10" basswood stab spar

over the plans. Sand the ends to the taper shown. Glue the
stab spar to the rear of the stab center.

❏ 3. Using two 3/16" x 1/2" x 24" balsa sticks, fit and glue

the stab leading edges and stab trailing edge. From a
3/16" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick, fit and glue the stab ribs. (Be
sure to save the leftover pieces for building the fin.) Note:
Hold a non-slip straightedge behind the stab trailing edge
while fitting and gluing the stab ribs to help ensure a
straight trailing edge.

Hint: Single-edge razor blades work very well for making
clean vertical cuts in sticks such as those used for the tail
framework on this model.

❏ 4. Unpin the stab from the plans. Inspect all glue joints

and re-glue with CA as necessary. Use a bar sander and
220-grit sandpaper to sand the entire top and bottom
surface of the stab framework until it is flat and even. Be
careful while sanding so that you do not over-thin any one
particular area of the stab or gouge the stab ribs by
snagging the sandpaper on them.

❏❏5. Position the stab on a 1/16" x 4" x 30" balsa stab

sheeting, aligning the sheeting with the TE and one end of

the stab. Using medium CA, glue the stab framework to the
stab sheeting.

Note: Give the CA ample time to cure before lifting the
assembly off the building board. It is essential to get a very
secure and uniform bond between the stab sheets and the
stab core, especially in the center.

❏❏6. Place the sheeted side of the stab on the building

board and trim the sheeting around the outer edges of the
framework. Save the remaining pieces.

Note: Refrain from using excessive accelerator. Even
hours after it’s sprayed on, residual accelerator can
prematurely and unexpectedly cure the CA you use later
on nearby glue joints. Unless you must handle or remove
the part from the building board right away, we
recommend using no accelerator at all.

Build the Stab

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

7

❏7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 to sheet the other side of the

stab.

❏ 8. Using the dotted lines on the front of the stab plan as

a reference, sand a flat on the front of the stab.

❏ 1. Remove the stab plan from your building board, and

lay out the fuselage plan. Cover the fin area of the plan with
Great Planes Plans Protector so the glue won’t stick to
the plan.

❏ 2. See the Expert Tip that follows, then use thin CA to

edge glue the two leftover pieces of 4" wide sheeting from
the stabilizer. Cut off the excess sheeting as shown in the
photo. Cut the sheeting diagonally to create two fin sheets.

HOW TO JOIN SHEETING

A. Use a metal straightedge as a guide to trim one edge

of both sheets.

B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the two sheets
together joining the trimmed edges.

C. Turn the sheet over and place weights on top of the
sheet to hold it. Apply thin CA sparingly to the seam
between the two places, quickly wiping away excess CA
with a paper towel as you proceed.

D. Turn the sheet over and remove the masking tape,
then apply thin CA to the seam the same way you did for
the other side.

E. Sand the sheet flat and smooth with your bar sander
and 150-grit sandpaper.

Build the Fin

8

❏ 3. From a 3/16" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick, cut the fin

leading edge and fin trailing edge. Pin them to the plans.

Using the leftover piece of 3/16" x 1/2" stick from the fin
leading edge, fit and glue the fin base into position.

❏ 4. From the leftover 3/16" x 1/4" balsa stick, fit and glue

the three fin ribs.

❏ 5. Unpin the fin from the plans. Inspect all glue joints,

and reglue with CA as necessary. Sand the left and right
sides until they are flat and even.

❏❏6. Position the fin on the fin sheeting you made in

step 1, aligning the sheeting with the trailing edge and
fin base. Glue it in place with medium CA.

❏❏7. Place the sheeted side of the fin on the building

board and trim the sheeting around the outer edges of the
framework.

❏❏8. Using leftover 1/16" balsa sheet, sheet the vertical

post with the grain of the balsa running vertically.

❏9. Repeat steps 6, 7 and 8 to sheet the other side of the

fin.

Note: The remaining wood from the fin, stab and elevators
will not be required to complete this model. Now might be a
good time to stash it away in your spare balsa box and dust
the shavings from the building board.

You may remove the rudder drawing from the wing plan by
cutting the drawing along the dotted line.

❏ 1. Using a 5/16" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick, cut the rudder

leading edge and rudder trailing edge. Pin them to the

plans. Use a second 5/16" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick to make
the rudder frame pieces. Pin and glue them in place.

Build the Rudder

9

❏ 2. Using the 1/4" x 5/16" x 24" balsa stick, fit and glue

the three rudder ribs.

❏ 3. Using the 1/8" x 5/16" x 12" balsa stick, fit and glue

the three rudder cross trusses.

❏ 4. Unpin the rudder from your plans. Inspect all glue

joints, and re-glue with CA as necessary. Sand the top and
bottom until they are flat and even.

❏ 1. Using three 5/16" x 1/2" x 24" balsa sticks, fit, pin and

glue the elevator leading edge, elevator trailing edge,
elevator frames, and elevator gussets for each elevator

half.

❏2. Using a 5/16" x 1/4" balsa stick leftover from the

rudder,

fit and glue the four elevator ribs for each elevator half.

❏ 3. Unpin the elevators from your plans. Inspect all glue

joints, and re-glue with CA as necessary. Sand the top and
bottom until they are flat and even.

Note: We do not recommend using any pin style hinges on
this model. In the case of hinging your elevators, drilling
deep enough for pin hinges will cause you to drill through
the 3/16" basswood stab spar in the stab, resulting in a
weak point in the structure.

❏❏1. Place the stab over its location on the plan and

lightly mark the hinge locations on the trailing edge with a
ballpoint pen. Mark the hinge locations on the elevators in
the same manner.

❏❏2. Cut the hinge slots in the elevator and stabilizer

using a #11 blade. Begin by carefully cutting a very
shallow slit at the hinge location to accurately establish the
hinge slot. Make three or four more cuts, going a little
deeper each time. As you cut, slide the knife from side to
side until the slot has reached the proper depth and width
for the hinge.

❏❏3. Cut 3/4" x 1" hinges for the elevators and rudder

from the supplied 2" x 9" hinge material, then snip off the
corners. Temporarily join the elevators to the stab with the
hinges, adjusting any hinge slots if necessary so they all
align. Do not glue in the hinges until you are instructed

to do so.

❏ 4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to complete the procedures

to hinge the rudder and fin.

Hinge the Tail Surfaces

Build the Elevator

10

1"
1"

3/4"

Great Planes Slot Machine

™

We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots with the
introduction of the Great Planes Slot Machine. This
simple electric tool cuts a perfect width slot for use with
CA hinges.

To cut the hinge slot, place the blades onto the wood
where you want the slot. Lightly press the teeth into the
wood. When you are satisfied with the location, press the
button on the handle and the blades will cut easily into the
balsa wood.

❏1. Shape the leading edge of the elevators and rudder to

a “V” as shown on the plans.

❏2. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper to round the

tail surfaces as shown on the plan.

That’s about it for the tail surfaces. They’re a little more
work than sheet surfaces but they are much lighter, just as
strong, and a nice piece of craftsmanship. Clean off the
building board and get ready for the wing!

Right now, while the building board is clear, is a great time
to assemble the wing sheeting.

❏❏1. Edge glue three 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets

together. Cut the sheets as shown above, cutting the center
sheet diagonally corner to corner, creating two LE sheets.

❏ 2. Repeat step 1 to build the LE sheets for the second

wing panel.

❏ 1. From the two 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" basswood sticks, cut

four 13-3/4" long spar doublers.

❏ 2. Before using the 1/8" x 1/2" x 13-3/4" basswood spar

doublers, examine them carefully for possible
imperfections. Look for knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and
any other imperfections. If possible, position each spar
doubler so the imperfections (if any) are on the outer half of
the wing panel (toward the tip), where they will be least
affected by high stress. If the spar doublers are warped
slightly, try to “balance them out” by installing the warped
spar doublers in opposite directions (see sketch).

Build the Wing Spars

Assemble the Wing Sheeting

BUILD THE WING

Finish the Tail Surfaces

11

30"

3"

3"

❏ 3. Align the end of each spar doubler with the inboard

end of one of the 1/8 x 1/2" x 30" balsa spars. Glue the
spar doublers to the spars. From this point forward we refer
to this combination as a spar.

The construction of these wings is engineered specifically
to provide a perfectly straight and true wing panel with
minimum effort on your part. To do so, the building
sequence and pieces are quite different from what you may
be accustomed to. Be sure to read all steps carefully and
pay particular attention to instructions of when and where to
apply adhesives.

❏❏1. Tape the right wing plan to the building board, and

cover the wing drawing with Great Planes Plan Protector.
Remember, we are building the right wing upside-down
over the right wing bottom view.

❏❏2. Position the top spar on top of the plan with the

spar doubler visible, aligning the end of the spar doubler
with the “ALIGN BASS SPAR DOUBLER HERE” marks
on the plan. The spar will overhang both R-1 and R-11. Do

not cut them at this time. Pin them in place as shown in the
photo. Note: The pins are offset the aft side to leave space
for the main web.

❏❏3. Carefully punch out the four die-cut 3/32" balsa

webs and the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing ribs. Sand the
edges slightly to remove any die-cutting irregularities. Be
careful not to alter the shapes or angles of any of the

pieces.

Note: Do not glue until instructed to do so.

❏❏4. Select the die-cut 3/32" balsa rib R-3, main web,

and aileron web (with support jig attached). Slide R-3 into
its slots in the main web and the aileron web. Align the
main web, centering it on the spars and aligning the notch
on the top of the main web with the spar doubler. Align the
aileron web in position on the plans with the root end flush
with the wing centerline. Pin the root end of the aileron web
in place as shown.

❏❏5. Position R-10 in its slots to lock the webs in place.

Insert all of the remaining ribs except R-2A into their
locations. Note: If you happen to break one of the ribs
during installation, simply take it out of the wing, position
the pieces together and glue with thin CA. Allow to dry and
reinstall.

Designer’s Note: Occasionally outside forces such as
humidity and dramatic temperature changes can result in
slight inaccuracies in the dimensions of printed plans. One
of the many advantages of a fully interlocking wing such as
this one is that exact alignment over a printed plan is not
necessary to ensure a straight wing. If the ribs do not align
perfectly over the plans, don’t worry! As long as the spar
doubler is aligned as shown and the aileron web is aligned
with the centerline of the wing, the wing will be true.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The following instructions explain
how to build the wing directly over the plans. We’ll start
by building the right wing panel upside-down over the
right wing plan so your progress matches the photos.

Build the Wing Panels

12

❏❏6. Carefully slide the die-cut 3/32" balsa TE web and

the die-cut 3/32" balsa LE web over the ribs in their
notches until the top of the webs are flush with the top of
each rib. Take your time and be gentle; this balsa structure
is still fragile at this point, but when finished will provide you
a strong, light platform. When everything is aligned, use
thin CA to glue all joints except any joints connecting
to R-1.

❏❏7. Test fit (do not glue) the bottom spar into the ribs,

fitting the spar doubler into the notch in the main web.
When you are confident you can fit the spar in place,
remove the spar. Lay a bead of medium CA along the
bottom of the main web and the corners of the rib slots, and
reinstall the bottom spar.

❏❏8. Use a builder’s square to be sure R-1 is square to

the building board, then glue R-1 to the spars and the webs
with thin CA. Note: Be sure not to press down on the spars.
The top of the top spar must align with the top of R-2A, and
the bottom of the bottom spar must align with the bottom
of R-2A.

❏❏9. Align and glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood control

horn support to R-4 and the aileron web.

❏❏10. Align the die-cut 3/32" balsa aileron end cap

parallel with R-3 and glue it to the TE web.

❏❏11. Position and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply rib R-2A.

❏❏12. Fit the die-cut 1/8" ply aileron servo tray in the

slot in R-4, holding tight against the top of the bottom spar.
Glue in place with thin CA.

❏❏13. Fit the die-cut 1/8" ply center web tight against

both spars and R-1. Glue in place with medium CA.

❏❏14. Align the 1/16" x 1/2" x 30" TE sheeting with the

back of the TE web, allowing at least 1/8" excess to
overhang each end of the wing panel. (Leaving the excess
will allow you to sand the sheeting perfectly flush with R-1
and the balsa end cap later.) Glue it in place. Hint: Lay the
TE sheeting over the TE web and mark a line along each
rib at the edge of the sheeting. Remove the sheeting and
lay a bead of medium CA along the TE web and the ribs up
to those marks. Reposition the TE sheeting flush with the
TE of the TE web and hold in place until dry.

❏❏15. Select a piece of the 1/16" x 2-3/4" x 24" aileron

sheeting, and carefully true one edge. Do so by aligning a

no-slip straightedge approximately 1/32" down from and
parallel with a long edge of the sheet. Trim the sheeting
along the straightedge, being careful to keep the knife
vertical. Discard the thin piece of sheet you trimmed.

13

❏❏16. Measure 2-3/8" in from the cut you just made and

cut off the excess sheeting, making a 1/16" x 2-3/8" x 24"
trued aileron sheet.

❏❏17. Place a bead of medium CA along the aileron

portion of each rib, the aileron end cap and the aileron web.
Align the aileron sheeting you just made with the leading
edge of the aileron web and the aileron end cap.

❏❏18. Use a bar sander to shape the LE web so it

aligns with the tops of the ribs and the shape of the airfoil
as shown in the sketch. Be careful not to gouge the ribs or
LE web.

Note: Use this photo for the next three steps.

❏❏19. Weight the wing down directly in front of the

aileron web to keep it flat on the support jig. Hint: An Easy
Touch Bar Sander with a weight on top, or bags filled with
lead shot and sealed shut, makes an excellent wing weight.

❏❏20. Using medium CA, glue a LE sheet to the front

half of the spar. Note: Make sure the sheeting overhangs
R-11 and the center of the wing slightly.

❏❏21. Carefully lift the sheeting away from the ribs, then

apply a bead of medium or thick CA to the top of each rib

and the LE web. Working quickly, pull the sheeting forward
as you press it down to the ribs and the LE web. Use
weights to hold the sheeting to the ribs and LE web until the
CA cures.

❏❏22. Once the glue is dry, lift off the weights and

remove the T-pins from the spars.

❏❏1. From a 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet, cut two 9-1/2"

long sheets and one 6-1/4" long sheet. These will become
the center sheeting.

❏❏2. Position the first 9-1/2" long sheet over the ribs,

flush with the TE sheeting and overhanging R-4 by 1/4".
Glue in place.

❏❏3. Place the second 9-1/2" long sheet flush against

the first sheet and overhanging R-4 by 1/4". Don’t worry
about it overhanging R-1, we’ll get to that later. Be sure it is
pressed firmly against the first sheet. Lay the straightedge
on the spar, pressed firmly against the trailing edge of the
LE sheeting. Use a hobby knife to carefully cut the second
piece of sheeting along the spar. Remove both pieces of
sheeting and the straightedge from the wing. Glue the
second piece of sheeting in place. Note: You will cut the
opening for the servo after the wing is unpinned from the
building board.

Sheet the Wing Panel Center Section

14

❏❏4. Position the 6-1/4" long sheet flush with the

outboard edge of R-3 (next to, but not touching the aileron
end cap), and pressed against the trailing edge of the TE
sheeting. Lift it off the ribs, lay glue on the ribs and the face
of the TE sheeting. Reposition the sheet and hold in place
while the CA cures. Lay a straightedge on the aileron flush
with the trailing edge of the aileron as shown in the photo.
Carefully trim this sheet along the straightedge.

❏❏5. From 1/16" x 1/4" x 24" balsa sticks, cut and glue

caps strips to the exposed ribs between the LE sheeting
and TE sheeting only. Hint: For easier positioning of the
cap strips, first mark the location of each rib on the LE and
TE sheeting.

❏❏6. Remove the remaining pins and lift the wing from

the building board. Trim everything flush with R-11. Trim the
LE sheeting flush with the front of the LE web.

❏❏7. Trim all of the sheeting flush with R-1. Use a bar

sander to sand the spars flush with R-1. Note: Be careful
not to gouge R-1 and to keep the spar ends square to R-1.

❏❏8. Set the wing right-side up on the building board.

From a piece of leftover sheeting, make a sheeting
support for the inboard side of the aileron servo tray as

shown. Carefully sand the airfoil shape onto the bottom of
the support. Glue with thin CA. Make and glue a second
sheeting support for the trailing edge of the aileron servo
tray. Note: Be careful not to change the shape of the
sheeting when installing these supports.

❏❏9. Use a hobby knife to cut the opening for the servo

in the sheeting, using the servo tray as a guide. Hint: While
the wing is right-side up, use a hobby knife to cut just the
corners of the servo opening. Turn the wing upside-down
again, and use a straightedge to cut straight lines between
the four corners you marked. Remove the piece of
sheeting.

❏❏10. With the wing upside-down, fit the aileron servo in

place and trim the sheeting around the rubber grommets on
the servo. Note: Provide approximately 1/16" of clearance
between the servo and the sheeting.

15

❏❏11. Turn the wing right-side up again, and use a

sanding block to shape the LE web so it aligns with the tops
of the ribs and the shape of the airfoil.

Sit back and relax! Take a look at your great work! Enjoy for
just a minute how light and strong this structure is. Okay,
ready to get back to work?

If this is the first time through, go back to the start of Build
the Wing Panels and build the left wing half.

❏ 1. Using medium CA, glue the three die-cut 1/8" ply

center spar joiners together. Center these three layers on
top of the die-cut 1/8" ply forward spar joiner so that the
high point of the center joiners is aligned with the peak on
the center section of the forward joiner. The bottom edge of
the center joiners will also be aligned with the flat edge of
the center section of the forward joiner. Glue them in place.
This complete assembly is now called the wing joiner.

❏❏2. Lay the right wing panel right-side up on the

building board. Hold the wing joiner so the forward spar
joiner is facing you and the flat side of the center section is
up. Write “top” on the front of the forward spar joiner at the
flat edge. Without using any glue, test fit the wing joiner
into its position against the spars. Mark a straight line on
the sheeting where the wing joiner meets the sheeting.

❏❏3. Cut the sheeting along the line drawn in step 2 and

along R-2A, and remove the leftover piece of sheeting.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the left wing panel.

Be sure the building board is free of debris and items which
will be in your way, because you’re ready to join the wings!

❏ 4. Lay both panels upside-down as shown in the photo.

Without using glue, test fit the wing halves with the wing
joiner. Some fitting of the wing joiner may be required. Take
your time and be extremely careful that you have a perfect
fit, with no gaps between the spars, and the tabs on the
forward spar joiner locking completely into both R-2Aribs. A
few extra minutes here will help ensure that you have a
strong, true wing that will perform at its optimum. Note: Be
SURE that you have the wing joiner upside-down, just like
the wings are, so that the “top” label is inverted and is just
above the building board as shown in the photo.

❏ 5. When you are confident with the fit and that you can

comfortably position the wing joiner, remove it and lift the
wing halves from the building board. Place a Plan Protector
under the center of the wing to catch excess epoxy. Coat
both R-1s, all four spars, and the wing joiner with 30-minute
epoxy, and install the wing joiner. Place weights on top of
the wing to hold it in place. Do not disturb the wing until the
epoxy is completely cured.

It’s time to take a long, relaxing break and let the epoxy do
its job.

Join the Wing Panels

16