Great Planes GPMA0220 User Manual

WARRANTY
Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. box guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.In no case shall Great Planes’liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr.Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt.Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
GPMZ0289 for GPMA0220 V1.0 Entire Contents © Copyright 2003 Printed in USA
Champaign, IL
(217) 398-8970, Ext. 5
airsupport@greatplanes.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Wingspan: 60 in [1525mm] Wing Area: 635 sq in [41 dm
2
]
Weight: 4.5–5.25 lb [2040–2350 g] Wing Loading: 16-19 oz/sq ft [50–57 g/dm
2
]
Length: 46.5 in [1185mm] Radio: 4-channel, 4 servos Engine: .40-.50 cu in [6.5–8.0cc] two-stroke,
.40-.52 cu in [6.5–8.5cc] four-stroke
USA
MADE IN
INTRODUCTION.................................................................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...................................................................2
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED......................................................3
Hardware & Accessories .............................................................3
Adhesives & Building Supplies....................................................3
Covering & Covering Tools..........................................................4
Optional Supplies & Tools ...........................................................4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES.......................................................4
TYPES OF WOOD..............................................................................5
METRIC CONVERSIONS...................................................................5
DIE-CUT PATTERNS..........................................................................6
BUILD THE T AIL SURFACES............................................................7
Build the Fin & Rudder ................................................................7
Build the Stab & Elevators..........................................................8
Hinge the Elevators & Rudder.....................................................8
BUILD THE WING.............................................................................11
Build the Wing Panels...............................................................11
Make the Ailerons .....................................................................16
Join the Wing.............................................................................17
Finish the Wing..........................................................................18
BUILD THE FUSELA GE...................................................................19
Frame the Fuselage..................................................................19
Mount the Wing.........................................................................21
Install the Guide Tubes, Fuel Tank & Engine ............................22
Build the Front Turtledeck..........................................................24
Build the Rear Turtledeck..........................................................25
COVER THE MODEL .......................................................................28
Prepare the Model for Covering ................................................28
Cover the Model ........................................................................29
FINAL ASSEMBLY...........................................................................30
Glue on the Stab & Fin .............................................................30
Join the Control Surfaces..........................................................31
Hook Up the Controls................................................................31
Complete the Radio Installation................................................34
Finish the Cockpit......................................................................35
Apply the Decals.......................................................................36
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY..................................................36
Check the Control Directions ....................................................36
Set the Control Throws..............................................................36
Balance the Model (C.G.)..........................................................36
Balance the Model Laterally......................................................37
PREFLIGHT......................................................................................37
Identify Y our Model....................................................................37
Charge the Batteries.................................................................37
Balance the Propellers..............................................................38
Ground Check...........................................................................38
Range Check.............................................................................38
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................38
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt).......................................................39
CHECK LIST ....................................................................................39
FLYING .............................................................................................39
Takeoff.......................................................................................40
Flight..........................................................................................40
Landing......................................................................................40
TWO VIEW DRAWING .............................................Back Cover Page
FUSELAGE/WING PLAN...............................Center Pull-Out Section
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Rapture 40™. The Rapture 40 is a dual-purpose airplane. It’s the perfect low-wing trainer for pilots who have already mastered their high-wing trainer. And it’s also perfect for modelers who have already mastered flying, but haven’t yet built a model from a kit.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the Rapture 40 visit the Great Planes web site at www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the Rapture 40. If there is new technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
1. Your Rapture 40 should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Rapture 40, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct.
3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition, and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5.You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
6.You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you should fly the model only with the help of a competent, experienced R/C pilot.
PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,Y OURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
INTRODUCTIONTABLE OF CONTENTS
2
8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.
Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit with the Parts List, and note any missing parts.Also inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any par ts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this airplane, please contact Great Planes at the address or telephone number below. If requesting replacement parts, please provide the full kit name (Rapture 40) and the part numbers as listed in the Parts List.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970
Fax:(217) 398-7721
E-mail:
productsupport@greatplanes.com
Y ou can also chec k our web site at
www.greatplanes.com
for the latest Rapture 40 updates.
If you have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs.There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events .Additionally , training programs and instructors are available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish the Rapture 40. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
.40-.50 cu in [6.5–8.0cc] Two-stroke or .40-.52 cu in
[6.5–8.5cc] four-stroke engine
4-channel Radio control system with four standard servosSuitable propeller and spare propellers6" [150mm] Servo extension (for aileron servo–HCAM2701
for Futaba®)
1/4" [6mm] R/C foam rubber (HCAQ1000) 8 oz. [240cc] Fuel tank (GPMQ4103)3' [900mm] Standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)2-1/2" [65mm] Wheels (GPMQ4223)2-1/2" [65mm] Spinner (white–GPMQ4520, black–
GPMQ4521, red–GPMQ4522,)
1" [25mm] Tail wheel (GPMQ4241) William’s Brothers #185 1/5-scale sportsman pilot
(WBRQ2485)
Acrylic paint and paint brushes for painting pilot (found
at craft stores)
In addition to common household tools (screwdrivers, drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important items required to build the Rapture 40.
We recommend Great
Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.
1 oz. [30g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)HobbyLite
balsa-colored balsa filler (HCAR3401)
Plan Protector
(GPMR6167) or wax paper
Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm],
9/64" [3.6mm], 5/32" [4mm], #20 (or 5/32" [4mm]), 3/16" [4.8mm], 15/64 [6mm], 1/4" [6.4mm]
1/4-20 Tap and #7 [5mm] or 13/64" [5.2mm] drill, or
1/4-20 tap and drill set (GPMR8105)
Tap handle (GPMR8120)Small metal fileStick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)#11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)#11 Blades (100-pack, HCAR0311)Single-edge razor blades (10-pack, HCAR0212)Flat building board (see
“Important Building Notes”
on page 4)
Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment (see
“Easy-
Touch™Bar Sander”
section)
Adhesives & Building Supplies
Hardware & Accessories
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it;therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
3
Two rolls of covering will be required to cover this model. The following colors are those on the model f eatured on the kit box cover:
White – (TOPQ0204)
True Red – (TOPQ0227)
Cub Yellow – (TOPQ0220)
Medium Purple – (TOPQ0225)
The following tools are also recommended for applying the covering:
Top Flite
®
MonoKote®sealing iron (TOPR2100)
Top Flite Hot Sock
iron cover (TOPR2175)
Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)
Here is a list of tools mentioned in the manual that will help you build the Rapture 40.
Razor saw and miter box set (HCAR0240)4-40 Tap and #43 [2.2mm] drill, or 4-40 tap and drill set
(GPMR8101)
2 oz. [57g] Spray CA activator (GPMR6035), or 4 oz.
[113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)CA debonder (GPMR6039)Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)Mixing cups (GPMR8056)Master Airscrew Razor Plane (MASR1510)Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)Great Planes Precision Hinge Marking Tool
(GPMR4005)
Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts
(HCAR0667)
Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)Microballoons (TOPR1090)Threadlocker
thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)K&S brass tubing;1/8" [3.2mm], 1/4" [6.4mm], 5/16" [8mm]K&S #801 Kevlar
®
thread (for stab alignment,
K+SR4575)
Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000)Rotary tool such as Dremel
®
Moto-Tool
®
Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)Dead Center
Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
AccuThrow
Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)
Slot Machine
(110V, GPMR4010)
CG Machine
(GPMR2400)
Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700)
A flat building board that you can stick T-pins into is required. Most of the building is done by pinning the parts over their location on the plan laid over the building board. The 16" x 36" x 3/4" [410 x 910 x 19mm] Great Planes Pro
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER
A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity for building a well finished model.Great Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the Rapture 40, two 5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sanders and two 11" [280mm] Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper were used.
5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169) 11" [280mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
12' [3.66m] roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180) 12' [3.66m] roll of Adhesive-backed 150-grit sandpaper (GPMR6183) Assortment pack of 5-1/2" [140mm] strips (GPMR6189)
Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets) and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry sandpaper is also recommended for finish sanding.
Optional Supplies & Tools
Covering & Covering Tools
4
Building Board (GPMR6948) is suggested.A piece of 2' x 4' [610 x 1220mm] Celotex®ceiling tile is also suitable. Of course, the building board won’t be flat unless the workbench beneath it is flat as well.
There are two types of screws used in this kit: Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and
a length.
For example #6 x 3/4" [20mm]
This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [20mm] long.
Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per inch, and a length.SHCS is just an abbreviation for “sock et
head
cap screw” and that is a machine screw with a socket head.
For example 4-40 x 3/4" [20mm]
This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [20mm] long with forty threads per inch.
When you see the term
test fit
in the instructions, it means that you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or
custom fit
the part as necessar y for the best fit.
Whenever the term
glue
is written you should rely upon your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the instructions will make a recommendation.
Whenever just
epoxy
is specified you may use either 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
Photos and sketches
are placed before the step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts.
Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete name stamped on them, so refer to the
“Die-Cut Patterns”
on page 6 for identification. When it’s time to remove the parts from their die sheets, if they are difficult to remove, do not force them out. Instead, use a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut the part from the sheet, then lightly sand the edges to remove any slivers or irregularities. Save some of the larger scraps of wood.
TYPES OF WOOD
5
1/64" = .4 mm 1/32" = .8 mm 1/16" = 1.6 mm 3/32" = 2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm 5/32" = 4.0 mm 3/16" = 4.8 mm
1/4" = 6.4 mm
3/8" = 9.5 mm 1/2" = 12.7 mm 5/8" = 15.9 mm 3/4" = 19.0 mm
1" = 25.4 mm 2" = 50.8 mm 3" = 76.2 mm 6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm 18" = 457.2 mm 21" = 533.4 mm 24" = 609.6 mm 30" = 762.0 mm 36" = 914.4 mm
METRIC CONVERSIONS
6
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
1. Unroll the full-size plan sheet and reroll it inside out to
help it lay flat. Cut the fin plan from the rest of the plan, or position the plan so the fin is over your b uilding board.Cover the fin plan with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere to the paper.
2. Use the pattern on the plan to cut the fin base from
the 1/4" x 2-1/4" x 24" [6.4 x 57 x 610mm] balsa sheet. Repositionable spray adhesive may be used to temporarily stick the pattern to the balsa sheet, or the pattern can simply be traced onto the sheet. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to cut out the part.
3. Pin the fin base to the building board over its location
on the plan.
4. Build the rest of the fin framework from a 1/4" x 1/2" x
36" [6.4 x 13 x 914mm] balsa stick and a 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6.4 x 6.4 x 914mm] balsa stick.Use medium CA to glue the parts together and use T-pins to hold them down as you go. Hint: The easiest, most accurate way to cut the small sticks is to place the stick over the structure; use a single-edge razor blade to make cut marks, then cut the rest of the way through the stick over your workbench. A miter box is also helpful for cutting 90° angles on some of the larger balsa sticks.
5. Remove the fin from the plan. Use a bar sander with
80-grit sandpaper to sand both sides flat and round the tip and leading edge. Follow with 220-grit sandpaper. Final sanding will be done later.
Build the Fin & Rudder
BUILD THE T AIL SURF A CES
7
6. Make the rudder as shown on the plan from the
remainder of the 1/4" x 2-1/4" x 24" [6.4 x 57 x 610mm] balsa sheet used to make the fin base.Do not cut the “V” in the leading edge until instructed to do so.
Set the fin and rudder aside for now.
1. Cut out the stab plan or position the plan so it is over
your flat building board. Cover with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.
2. The same way you cut the fin base for the fin, use the
stab leading edge brace template on the plan to cut the stab leading edge brace from the 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 36" [6.4 x
38 x 914mm] balsa stick. Pin the brace to the plan.
3. Finish building the stab from the remainder of the 1/4"
x 1/4" x 36" [6.4 x 6.4 x 914mm] balsa stick and the remainder of the 1/4" x 2-1/4" x 24" [6.4 x 57 x 610mm] balsa sheet used to build the fin, an additional 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6.4 x 6.4 x 914mm] balsa stick and two more 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" [6.4 x 13 x 914mm] balsa sticks.
4. Make both elevators from the remainder of the 1/4" x
1-1/2" x 36" [6.4 x 38 x 914mm] balsa sheet used to make the stab leading edge brace. Do not cut the “V” on the leading edge until instructed to do so.
1. Use a Great Planes Precision Hinge Marking Tool
(GPMR4005) to mark the centerline all the way down the leading edge of the rudder. If you don’t have a Hinge Marking Tool, use a fine-point ballpoint pen to mark the centerline as shown.The pen or the rudder may have to be raised from the workbench so the line will be on center.
NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES
This kit is supplied with CA hinge material consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and polyester specially made for hinging model airplanes.When properly installed, this type of CA hinge provides the best combination of strength, durability and easy installation. We use these hinges on all our models, but it is essential to install them correctly. Follow the hinging instructions in this manual for the best result. The techniques shown have been developed to ensure thorough and secure gluing.
Hinge the Elevators & Rudder
Build the Stab & Elevators
8
2. Mar k the locations of the hinge slots on the fin and
rudder where shown on the plan.
3.Use a Great Planes Slot Machine to cut hinge slots on
the centerlines at the marks. If you do not have a Slot Machine, use a #11 hobby blade to cut the hinge slots .Start by making a small slit.Then, working in small increments, go a little deeper moving the blade back and forth. Note that it’s the back of the blade that does the work.
4. Cut three 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] CA hinges from the
supplied 2" x 9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip. Snip off the corners so they go in easier.
5. Test fit the rudder to the fin with the hinges. Make
adjustments where necessary for a good fit. Hint: Now that the rudder and fin are together (temporarily), this would be the perfect opportunity to align the tip of the fin and rudder by sanding them to match each other.
6.Using the centerline as a guide, refer to the plan to get
the correct angle, then shape the leading edge of the rudder to a “V.” The best tool for this is the Master Airscrew razor plane (MASR1510). If you don’t have a razor plane a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper can be used instead.The “V” doesn’t have to be sharp, but make certain you can get 1" [25mm] of both right and left rudder throw.
9
7. Set the fin and r udder aside. Mark the centerlines and
hinge locations and cut the hinge slots on both elevators and the stab the same way, but don’t cut the “V” until instructed to do so.
8. With the elevators temporarily connected to the
stabilizer with the hinges, determine which side looks best. Write “bottom” on the other side of the center of the stab.
9. Place the joiner wire on the bottom of the stab as
shown. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the location of the ends of the joiner wire where it will go into the elevators.
10. Extend the lines across the bottom of the elevator
using a small square.
11.Drill a 9/64" [3.6mm] (or 1/8" [3.2mm]) hole 1" [25mm]
deep into both the elevators centered on the lines.
12.Use a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass tube sharpened on the end
or a hobby knife to cut a groove in both elevators to accommodate the joiner wire.
Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to sharpen the inside of the tube by rolling it on a wood block.
The tube can be turned either by hand or by an electric drill. After the hole has been cut the material will usually stick inside the tube. The balsa “plug” can be removed with a wire or the next size smaller tube.
Sharpen the outside of the tube using a fiber reinforced cut-off wheel or a metal file. If using a cut-off wheel, be certain to use the reinforced variety and always wear safety glasses.
HOW TO SHARPEN A BRASS TUBE FOR
CUTTING BALSA
Often, using a brass tube sharpened on the end to cut holes (or grooves) in balsa provides a much cleaner, more accurate hole than would a regular drill bit. The sharpening procedure below works on any size of hobby tubing (available from K&S at hobby shops, craft stores and hardware stores).
10
13. Test fit the elevators to the stabilizer with the joiner
wire. Make any adjustments necessary for a good fit.
14. The same as was done for the rudder, bevel the
leading edge of both elevators. Make sure you can get 1/2" [13mm] of both up and down elevator throw.
Set the elevators and rudder aside while building the wing.
1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue a 1/2" x 3/4" x 3/4" [13 x
19 x 19mm] maple landing gear block to the top of a 1/2" x 3/4" x 6-1/4" [13 x 19 x 160mm] landing gear rail. The block should be 3/8" [10mm] from one end of the rail and the wood grain on the block should run the same direction as the rail. Make another assembly the same way. Set the assemblies aside and get to work on the rest of the wing while the epoxy hardens.
2. Cut 9" [230mm] from a 3/32" x 1/4" x 24" [2.4 x 6.4 x
610mm] balsa stick. Cut 2" [50mm] from a 1/4" x 1/4" x 30"
[6.4 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa stick.Glue the 9" [230mm] stick on top of one end of the 28" [710mm] stick to make the wing jig.
Start with the left panel so yours looks like the photos the first time through.
❏ ❏ 3. Position the left wing panel plan over your flat b uilding
board and cover it with Plan Protector or wax paper.
Refer to this photo for the following three steps.
❏ ❏ 4. Pin the wing jig over its location on the plan with the
ends protruding beyond the root and tip ribs.The end with the 9" [230mm] piece goes toward the root end of the wing panel.
❏ ❏ 5.Inspect the four 3/8" x 3/8" x 30" [9.5 x 9.5 x 760mm]
balsa wing spars included with this kit. Note any warps that may be present.If any of the spars are warped, pair them up as shown in the sketch at the top to cancel out any warps.
❏ ❏ 6. Pin one of the wing spars over its location on the
plan being certain, if necessar y, to place it so any warp will be cancelled out by the top spar. Note that the pins should be inserted at an angle so they do not interfere with the top spar when it is added later on. Also note that the tip of the spar should “end” at the outer edge of r ib R3 but the root end of the spar may extend beyond the root rib.
Build the Wing Panels
BUILD THE WING
11
❏ ❏ 7. Use medium CA or epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] plywood R2A rib doublers to the correct side of three die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa R2 ribs as shown in the photo for the wing panel you are working on.
❏ ❏ 8. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to cut partway
through the outside of rib R1 between the spar notches as shown.
❏ ❏ 9. Using a small square to keep the ribs vertical, glue
all the ribs except ribs R1 to the bottom spar. Also be certain the ribs are contacting the wing jig as you go.
❏ ❏ 10. Glue the top spar to the r ibs, again making sure
the ribs remain vertical. Don’t forget to position the top spar to cancel out any warp that may have been in the bottom spar.If any of the ribs lift from the wing jig, use T-pins to hold them down.
❏ ❏ 11. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood forward
and aft dowel plates into position. Note the angle on one end of the dowel plates.This is the end that goes on R1.
12
❏ ❏ 12. Fit, but do not glue rib R1 into position. Place a
leftover piece of 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa on the plan against the bottom spar.
❏ ❏ 13.Fit, but do not glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa
shear web (DG) between R1 and R2. Make sure the shear web is installed with the angled end contacting R1 so that the top of R1 is slanting outward toward the wing tip. Glue R1 to the top and bottom spars only.
❏ ❏ 14. Remove the shear web.Flip it over, then use it to
check the angle of R1 as you glue it to the forward and aft dowel plates.
❏ ❏ 15. Using the 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa shim to raise the
shear web from the plan, glue the shear web to the back of the spars. Use the same procedure to glue another shear web to the front of the spars.Be careful not to inadvertently glue the leftover balsa shim to the spars or shear web.
❏ ❏ 16. Lightly sand the front of the dowel plates to trim
any ribs that may be protruding.
Refer to this photo for the following three steps.
❏ ❏ 17.Glue the 3/8" x 3/4" x 30" [2.4 x 19 x 760mm] balsa
wing trailing edge into position. Note that the trailing edge should be centered vertically on all the ribs.This means that the top and bottom of all the R3 ribs will be even with the top and bottom of the trailing edge, but there will be a 3/32" [2.4mm] difference between the top and bottom of the other ribs and the top and bottom of the trailing edge.
❏ ❏ 18. Use a hobby knife to separate the 30" [760mm]
shaped leading edges from each other as shown in the sketch.
❏ ❏ 19.Glue one of the leading edges into position.Be certain
the leading edge is centered vertically on all the ribs and the dowel plate.Note that the tip of the leading edge should extend approximately 1-1/2" [38mm] beyond R3 at the wing tip.
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❏ ❏ 20. Cut four 1-9/16" [39mm] vertical grain shear
webs from the 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 609mm] hard
balsa sheet.Tr im the ends of the shear webs to fit between the ribs where shown on the plan.The same as when gluing the die-cut shear webs into position, use a piece of leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to raise the shear webs from the plan. Note: Remove any T-pins that are in the way.
❏ ❏ 21. Remove any T-pins that are in the bottom spar
between R1 and the last R2. Sheet the top of the wing with a 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm] balsa sheet.
❏ ❏ 22. Now the wing may be removed from the building
board. Use part of another 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 76 x 914mm] balsa sheet to sheet the bottom of the wing, but only between the trailing edge and the main spar.
❏ ❏ 23.Drill a #20 or 5/32" [4mm] hole through the landing
gear rail and the landing gear block 11/16" [18mm] from the end. (The wire is 5/32" [4mm], but using a #20 drill, which is slightly larger than 5/32" [4mm], will make the gear a little easier to install and remove during construction.)
❏ ❏ 24.Use a hobby knife to round the edge of the hole to
accommodate the bend in the gear.
❏ ❏ 25. Slightly widen the groove in the rail by pushing one
end of the gear back and forth.This will also make it easier to install and remove the gear during test fitting and assembly.
❏ ❏ 26. Test fit the gear in the rail. Make adjustments
where necessary.
❏ ❏ 27.Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the previously prepared
landing gear rail assembly into position on the bottom of the wing. Be certain to get a secure glue joint between the maple landing gear block and the plywood doubler (excess glue isn’t required–good contact is the way to a strong joint).
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