Great Planes GPMA0205 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

P.O.

Box

788

Urbana. Illinois 61803

WWW GREATPLANES.COM

(217) 398-8970

PRECAUTIONS....................................3

INTRODUCTION..................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ..........3

Engine Selection...............................3

Landing Gear Configuration

.............3

Other Items Required .......................4

Suggested Supplies and Tools .........4

Common Abbreviations ....................4

Metric Conversions...........................5

Types of Wood..................................5

Get Ready to

DIE-CUT

PATTERNS

Build

...........................5

...........................6

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES.............7

Build the Stabilizer and Fin...............7

Join the Elevators.............................7

Fit the Rudder...................................7

BUILD THE WING................................8

Build the Wing Panels ......................8

Install the Landing Gear Rails ........10

Sheet the Bottom LE & TE..............11

Sheet the Top LE & TE ...................11

Add Wing Tips and Cap Strips........12

Join the Wing Panels......................12

Sheet Bottom & Top Center of Wing.... 13

Wing Completion ............................14

BUILD THE FUSELAGE....................16

Build the Lower Fuselage...............16

Install Pushrod Tubes.....................17

Build the Fuselage Top ...................18

Install the Engine and Tank............19

Install Optional Nose Gear.............20

Install the Cowling..........................21

Complete Fuse Top........................22

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage ....23

Attach the Stab and Fin..................23

Build the Wing Belly Pan................24

Install the Tail Gear ........................26

Assemble the Wheel Pants............26

FINISHING........................................27

Final Sanding .................................27

Fuelproofing...................................27

Balance the Airplane Laterally........27

Cover the Structure with MonoKote ....27

Recommended Covering Sequence ...28

Painting (Wheel Pants) ..................28

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS ....29

Install the Control Surfaces............29

Install the Landing Gear & Canopy ....30

Radio Installation............................30

Control Surface Throws .................32

Balance Your Model .......................32

Preflight..........................................33

AMA Safety Code...........................34

FLYING YOUR MODEL.....................34

Balance the Propeller.....................34

Takeoff............................................34

Flying..............................................35

Landing ..........................................35

TWO-VIEW DRAWING...................Back

Cover

Your Super Sportster 40 Mk II is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like an actual

airplane

Because of its realistic performance, the Sportster, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to

yourself or spectators and damage property

To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable

help with assembly and during your first flights You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model before you're truly ready to

solo Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors

You can also contact the national Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered clubs across

the country. Through any one of them, instructor training programs and insured newcomer training are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252 (800) 435-9262

Or via the internet at http.//www.modelaircraft.org

1 You must assemble the plane according to the instructions Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos In those instances you should assume the written instructions are correct.

2 You must take time to build straight, true, and strong

3. You must properly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates properly on the ground and in the air.

4 You must test the operation of the model before the first and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is operating, and you must make certain that the model has remained structurally sound

Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

We can be reached by E-Mail at: productsupport@greatplanes.com

Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Super Sportster 40 Mk II for your next project We are sure that you will

find a great deal of modeling satisfaction while building and flying this new version of the classic Super Sportster

For more than a decade the Super Sportster family of R/C aircraft have helped modelers refine their building skills and develop the piloting skill to move on to higher performance planes For many modelers Super Sportsters provided their first taste of flying taildraggers-a transition made easy by widely spaced landing gear and stable ground handling

Since their introduction, Super Sportsters have been accepted as just about the best aerobatic trainers and sport planes of all time with well over 50 000 successfully built and flown by modelers all over the world The Super Sportster 40 Mk II continues this tradition of excellence but adds the dimension of computer designed parts for a more precise fit, interlocking fuselage components for faster more accurate assembly, and redesigned nose for a sleeker profile without sacrificing the classic Sportster appearance

The Super Sportster 40 Mk II incorporates several other improvements, such as redesigned wheel pants that prevent them from rocking on the gear legs a new canopy that fits the contour of the fuselage perfectly simplified wing fairing construction, interlocking wing panels that eliminate the need for fiberglassing the center section and lighter weight for better performance So, dust off your work bench, put a new blade in your hobby knife, load some fresh sandpaper, and let's build a Sportster!

Engine Selection

There are many engines that will work well in the Super Sportster 40 Mk II, but for unlimited performance we recommend a hot 2-stroke such as an 0 S 46SF or SuperTigre G45, and in the 4 stroke category, an 0 S 70 Surpass. Your choice of 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine will determine the location of the throttle servo and pushrod exit

Landing Gear Configuration

This kit includes materials for a taildragger set-up Historically, most modelers have built the Sportster in this configuration so the nose gear wire and steering assembly have been dropped from the included parts in order to save most modelers some money The wing ribs that support the landing gear are die-cut for either tricycle or conventional landing gear, so if you prefer to add an optional nose wheel, we have provided a list of the necessary parts on page 9, as well as instructions for doing the installation

D 4-Channel radio with 4 servos D Propeller (Top Flite" Power Point'") D 10 oz Fuel tank (Great Planes #GPMQ4104) D 12" Medium fuel tubing (Great Planes #GPMQ4131) D (2) 2-1/2" Main wheels (Great Planes #GPMQ4223) D (1) 1" Tail wheel (Great Planes #GPMQ4241) D (4) 5/32" Wheel collars (Great Planes #GPMQ4306) D (2) 3/32" Wheel collars (Great Planes #GPMQ4302) D 2-1/2" Spinner (Great Planes #GPMQ4520)

D Straightedge with scale D Masking Tape (required for construction) D Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)* D T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar) D Waxed paper D Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico" HobbyLite"

(Hobbico #HCAR3400) D 1/4-20 Tap and Tap Wrench D IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%) D Auto body filler (Bondo or similar) D Dremel Moto-Tool or similar (optional)

D (2) Rolls covering film (Top Flite MonoKote^) D 2" Pilot figure (optional- Williams Bros #184-2") D 1/2" Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050) D Engine 40 - 46 2-stroke

48- 70 4-stroke

We recommended Great Planes Pro" CA and Epoxy

D 2 oz CA (Thin, Great Planes #GPMR6003) D 2 oz CA+ (Medium, Great Planes #GPMR6009) D 1 oz CA- (Thick, Great Planes #GPMR6014) D 6-Minute Epoxy (Great Planes #GPMR6045) D 30-Minute Epoxy (Great Planes #GPMR6047) D G P" wood glue (Great Planes #GPMR6161)

Drill Bits D 1/16" D 1/8" D 3/16" (Long Bit)

D 5/64" D 9/64" D 13/64" D 3/32" D 5/32" D 1/4" D 7/64" D 3/16"

*Note: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80 #150 and #220-grit sandpaper This set-up is all that is required for almost any sanding task Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa for sanding hard to reach spots We also keep some #320-grit wet or dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding before covering

D Hand or Electric Drill D Sealing Iron (Top Flite #TOPR2100) D Heat Gun (Top Flite #TOPR2000)

D Hobby Saw (X-acto Razor Saw) D Hobby Knife, #11 Blades D Razor Plane (Master Airscrew) D Pliers D Screw Drivers (Phillips and flat tip) D Round file (or similar) D T-Pins D String

Fuse = Fuselage LE = Leading Edge (front) TE = Trailing Edge (rear) Ply = Plywood Stab = Stabilizer

" = Inches

Inches x 25.4 = mm (conversion factor)

1/64" = 1/32" = .8mm 1/16" = 1.6mm 3/32" =

1/8" =

5/32" = 4.0

2.4

3.2

mm mm mm

3/16" = 4.8 mm

1/4" = 6.4 mm 3/8" = 9.5 1/2" = 12.7mm 5/8" = 15.9mm 3/4" = 19.0 mm

1" = 25.4mm 2"

= 50.8 3" = 6" = 152.4mm

12" = 304.8mm 18" = 457.2mm

76.2

21" = 533.4mm 24" = 609.6 mm 30" = 762.0mm 36" = 914.4mm

Balsa

D 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out to make them lie flat.

D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts list included with this kit Using a felt tip or ball point pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later Use the die-cut patterns shown on page 6 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them before removing them from the sheet Save all leftovers If any of

the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them' Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

Basswood Plywood

D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer), and hardware.

Zipper top food storage bags are handy to store your parts as you sort, identify, and separate them into subassemblies

Die-Cut Patterns

Work over the plans, covered with waxed paper, on a flat work surface. Refer to the plans to identify the parts and their locations.

D 1. Locate the shaped 1/4" balsa forward and aft stab parts. Check their fit and sand the mating edges as needed. Glue the two parts together with a thin bead of medium CA. Wipe off any excess from the surface before it cures.

D 5. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of both elevators. Drill a 1/8" diameter pilot hole into the LE of each elevator (on the centerline) at the marked location. Re-drill the holes with a 9/64" bit. The holes must be at least 1-1/8" deep.

D 6. Cut a 1/8" deep groove in the elevator LE between the inside edge and the hole you drilled. Insert the joiner wire. Adjust the depth of the groove until the joiner wire is

flush with the LE.

D 7. Test fit the joiner wire into both elevators. Make sure that both elevators are flat on the work surface and that the tips of the elevators align with the tips of the stab.

D 2. Locate the shaped 1/4" balsa forward and aft fin parts. Check their fit and sand the mating edges as needed. Glue the two parts together with a thin bead of medium CA. Wipe off any excess from the surface before it cures.

D 3. Sand the joints of both assemblies smooth with sharp 220-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.

D 4. Tape the two shaped 1/4" balsa elevators in position on the TE of the stab. Center the bent elevator joiner wire over the elevators as shown, then mark the location of the "arms."

D 8. Sand the LE of the elevators to a "V" shape as shown on the plans. Sand a radius on the LE and tip ends of the stab and the TE of the elevator. Leave the TE of the stab squared off.

D 9. Position the shaped 1/4" balsa rudder over the plans. Align the bent wire tail gear over the bottom end of the rudder as shown on the plans. Mark the tail gear "arm" location on the centerline of the rudder LE. Drill a 7/64" hole 5/8" deep at this spot.

D 10 Cut a groove from the tail gear hole to the bottom end of the rudder that will allow the nylon tail gear bearing to fit flush with the LE of the rudder

D 11 Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of the rudder Sand the LE of the rudder to a "V" shape as shown on the plans Sand a radius on the LE of the fin and the TE of the rudder Leave the TE of the fin squared off.

Note: The wing panels are built "UPSIDE-DOWN" on the plans Since it is the standard convention to show the Top View of the wing, and the wing panels are built upside-down, the LEFT wing panel is built over the RIGHT Wing Top View and vice-versa This does not

present any problems; just be sure to build a left and a right wing.

D 2 After the epoxy has cured, cut out the appropriate notch in each W-2 and W-3 rib for the landing gear rails If

you are building a taildragger, cut away the balsa from the front notch. For a tricycle gear configuration, remove

the balsa from the rear notch

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

STRAIGHT WING

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

WARPED WING

D 1 Lay out 3/32" die-cut wing ribs W-2 and W-3 exactly as shown in the photo Position the 1/16" die-cut birch ply doublers (LGD) on each rib as shown By so doing we will

be making a right and a left pair Use 30 minute epoxy to glue the doublers to the ribs Make sure that the doublers are perfectly aligned with the ribs spar notches

D D 3 Use the cross-pinning technique to pin a 3/8" x 3/8" x 25-1/4" balsa spar over a wing plan Don't forget the

waxed paper.

D 4 The shaped and notched wing leading edges (LE) and trailing edges (TE) are fastened together by thin strips of balsa Separate them by cutting with a hobby knife, as

shown in the sketch above

D D 5. Don't use any glue until instructed to do so. As

the wing panels are built upside-down, fit the W-2 and W-3

ribs to the spar with the landing gear notches pointing upward. Check that the ply doublers are on the correct side

of the ribs as shown on the plans. Add the remaining W-4

ribs all the way to the wing tip. The jig tabs on the building board should be closer to the TE than the jig

tabs facing upward.

D D 6. Sight down the length of the TE. Check that all ribs are aligned and have the correct side up.

D D 11. Test fit the forward and aft die-cut 1/8" ply wing

dowel supports in the notches in W-2. The aft wing dowel

support will fit correctly only one way. Wiggle rib W-1 into position, popping it into the LE and TE notches.

Note: The LE and TE notches need to be widened slightly to allow for the rib angle. The tabs on the wing dowel supports fit into the die-cut slots in W-1. Don't glue anything yet!

D D 7. Fit the notched leading and trailing edges to the ribs. The LE must be centered vertically on each rib. The TE should be flush with the top and bottom of the ribs. Align the ribs over the plans and true everything up. Glue W-2 and the wing tip W-4 rib to the TE, then pin the TE to the building board to keep the wing flat.

D D 8. Sight down the TE from the wing tip. If the TE is not straight, insert folded paper strips under the jig tabs of each low rib until the TE is straight. While holding each rib in contact with the building board (or paper shims), use thin CA to glue all remaining ribs to the TE.

D 1-1 9. Repeat this gluing process for the LE. Start with the two outside ribs, then work toward the center. Make sure that each rib is pressed firmly onto the spar and is also aligned with the plans.

D D 10. Glue the ribs to the lower spar, then install and glue the upper 3/8" x 3/8" x 25-1/4" balsa spar in position. Be sure to keep the ribs vertical as you do this step.

D D 12. Draw a line through the two index marks on the die-cut 1/8" ply rib angle gauge. Hold the gauge against W-1 with the line you drew on the reference line on the

plans. The angle of the rib and wing dowel supports should match the angle of the gauge. If not, examine your work

and correct any mistakes before gluing the assembly in place. When satisfied with the fit, use medium CA to glue the assembly together.

D D 13. Trim and sand the LE, TE, and spars flush with

W-1. Trim only the TE and spars flush with W-4 at the tip. Leave the LE

long

for

the time

being.

D D 14. Install 1/16" x 3" x 1-3/8" balsa shear webs on the aft side of the spars from W-2 to the wing tip. Install one extra shear web on the forward side of the spars between ribs W-2 and W-3. Use medium CA and be sure to get a secure bond. It's not necessary for the webs to be glued to the ribs.

D D 15. Use a 1/4" drill bit to drill the wing mounting dowel hole through the LE. The best way to have the holes line up perfectly is to manually twist the drill bit with your fingers as shown in the photo. If you have a "Pin Vise" tool,

this would work even better. You can also mark the location of the hole with a pin pushed through from the inside of the dowel support, then drill the hole from the LE inward. If you use the last technique, start with a 3/32" pilot hole, then slowly enlarge the hole while making adjustments to the alignment.

D 1. Test fit the 7/16" x 5/8" x 4" grooved basswood landing gear rails into the notches on W-2 and W-3. If necessary, carefully sand the notches to allow a snug fit.

The landing gear rails should protrude above the ribs

by 3/32".

D 2. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the rails in position. Epoxy (and clamp for a secure bond) the 7/16" x 5/8" x 3/4" grooved hardwood landing gear blocks to the inside of the landing gear rails and also to the ply doubler on W-2. It is essential that the landing gear blocks be accurately aligned with the landing gear rail.

D D 16. Round off both ends of the 1/4" x 2-3/4" hardwood

wing dowels (See wing plan) Test fit a dowel (without gluing) into the LE and aft dowel support. The fit should be

snug, so don't enlarge any of the holes more than necessary. When satisfied with the fit, remove the wing dowel and set it aside for later use.

D 17. Repeat steps 3-16 for the other wing panel.

D 3. After the epoxy has fully cured, drill a 5/32" hole

through the landing gear rail working from the top of the landing gear block, as shown. By drilling in this manner the block acts as a guide for perfect landing gear alignment.

D 4. Carve a slight radius in the groove of the landing gear rails at the location of the hole. This radius will permit the landing gear wire to fully seat in the groove.

D D 1. Pin a wing panel back on the building board with the landing gear rail pointing upward. Sight down the TE to check for straightness-shim the ribs as necessary.

D D 5. Test fit the LE sheet in position. When satisfied with the fit, press the forward edge of the sheet tightly against the LE and the ribs, then wick thin CA along the forward seam. Wipe off any excess CA before it cures. Roll the sheet into contact with the spar. Working from the center toward the tip, wick thin CA between the sheet and the spar.

D D 2. Lightly sand the TE to remove any bumps. Use medium

CA to glue a 3/32" x 7/8" x 25-1/4" balsa TE sheet to the TE. (Refer to the cross-section on the plans.) Hold a straightedge across the sheeting while the CA cures to

keep the TE flat and straight.

D D 3. Use a razor saw or hobby knife to cut a 1/8" x 3/8" slot through the W-1 rib between the spar and aft dowel support as shown in the photo. Do not cut more than 3/8" down. After the wing is sheeted, we will finish cutting out

the opening for the ply wing joiners.

D D 6. Wick CA around the seam between the sheeting and the landing gear rail.

D D 7. Lift the wing off the building board. Then, while

holding it flat on your work surface, wick thin CA between the ribs and the sheet from the inside of the wing. Add a

fillet of medium or thick CA along the inside of the LE. D 8. Repeat steps 1-7 to sheet the bottom of the other

wing panel.

D D 4. Butt a 3/32" x 2-1/2" x 25-1/4" balsa sheet tightly against the lip of the LE. Press down on the sheet with your fingers in the vicinity of the landing gear rail to make an impression of the landing gear rail on the inside of the sheet. Turn the LE sheet over, then cut the access hole for the landing gear rail using the impression mark as a guide.

D D 1. Pin the wing to the building board with the sheeted side facing down. Trim and sand the jig tabs from the top of the ribs (the sheeted side.) Sight down the TE to make sure it's straight. Shim any low ribs.

D D 2. Glue a 3/32" x 7/8" x 25-1/4" balsa sheet to the TE and ribs as you did with the bottom of the wing panel.

D D 3. Cut a 1/8" x 3/8" slot in W-1 between the spar and

the dowel support as you did in step #3 of the previous

section.

+ 25 hidden pages

Great Planes GPMA0205 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual