Great Planes GPMA0185 User Manual
INSTRUCTION BOOK
PLEASE READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOKLET IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING
ASSEMBLY. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily
harm and property damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE - to
build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank,
pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and fly it only with experienced, competent help, using
common sense and in accordance with all safety standards as set down in the Academy of Model
Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA to become properly insured
before you attempt to fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING,
CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL
AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252 (800) 435-9262 DE40P03
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
Precautions
Abbreviations
Die Patterns
Decisions You Must Make Now
Other Items Required
Supplies and
Types of
Hardware Drawings
Get Ready to Build
TAIL FEATHERS .................. 6
Build the Rudder
Build the Fin
Build the Stabilizer
Build the Elevators
Install the Hinges
WING ASSEMBLY ................. 9
Build the Wing Panels
Join the Wing Panels
Install Center Ribs and Sheeting
Install Aileron Torque Rods
Fiberglass the Center
Install Wing Tips
Install Ailerons
Temporarily Install Wing Dowels
Install Wing Bolt Plate
Install Wing Strut Plates ............... 16
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ............ 17
Prepare Fuse Sides
Assemble Lower Fuselage
Assemble Upper Fuselage
Mount the Wing to the Fuse
Mount Stabilizer and Fin
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Engine Installation
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Tools
Wood
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Install
"2-cycle
Drill Engine Mount
Install
Servos,
Control Surface Throws
Fitting Fuel Tank, Fuelproofing
Install
Wing Strut Straps
Install Receiver, Switch and Battery ..... 30
Install Main Landing Gear
Install Wheel Pants
Fit Cowl
FINISHING ....................... 33
Additional Fuelproofing
Balance
Final Sanding
Covering
Apply Decals and Trim
Glue the hinges
Install Windshield
Wing Seating
Install Wing Struts ................... 36
Install
Balance Your Model
Final Hookups and Checks
PRE-FLIGHT
Charge the Batteries
Find a Safe Place to Fly
Ground Check the Model
Range Check Your Radio
Engine Safety Precautions
AMA Safety Code .................. 39
FLYING .......................... 40
Caution
NOTES ........................... 41
PARTS LIST ...................... 42
3-View Drawing .................... 44
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the
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Side
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firewall"
Horns and Pushrods
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Airplane Laterally
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Windows
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Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build! If any parts are missing, broken
or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this airplane, please call us at (217)
367-2069 and we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have them ready
when calling.
2
INTRODUCTION
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition, the correct sized engine and correct components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.
Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes Super Decathlon 40!
The Super Decathlon 40 is a 1/6-scale model of a fullsize Bellanca Super Decathlon, owned by Pete Myers, located at Howell Airport in New Lenox, IL. The airplane was
built by Champion Aircraft in 1979. Pete calls his Super
Decathlon "experimental" because he has made a few
changes to enhance its acrobatic capabilities, the most noticeable of which are the squared-off "clipped" wing tips. The
normal wingspan would be 32'; but, due to the special tips,
Pete's Decathlon spans only 30.5'. You will notice that the
model's wingspan has been increased by 5% to enhance the
flying qualities.
If you are interested in sport scale competition, you'll be
happy to know that color photos of Pete's full-size Super
Decathlon are available from Scale Model Research, 2334
Ticonderoga Way, Costa Mesa, CA 92626.
The Super Decathlon 40 is easy to build and fly, predictable, highly acrobatic, and has no "bad habits," making it a
great sport-scale airplane (as long as you don't get carried
away with the glue bottle and make it a "lead sled")!
Although the model is sufficiently close to scale that it can
place well in sport-scale competition, traditional Great
Planes quality and ruggedness is evident throughout, making
this an airplane you'll want to take along every time you go
to the flying field.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates properly on the ground and
in the
air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before the
first and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
operating, and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check the nylon
clevises often, and replace if they show signs of wear.
6. You must fly the model only with the competent
help of a well experienced R/C pilot if you are not already an
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this lime.
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with
a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
no representations arc expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and
true.
This is not a beginner's airplane! While the Super
Decathlon 40 is easy to build and flies great, we must
discourage you from selecting this kit as your first R/C
airplane. It is fast, highly maneuverable, and lacks the selfrecovery characteristics of a good basic trainer such as the
Great Planes PT Series airplanes. On the other hand, if you
have already learned the basics of R/C flying and you are able
to safely handle an "aileron trainer" airplane such as the
Great Planes Trainer Series or Big Stick Series airplanes,
the Super Decathlon 40 is an excellent choice.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the plans
and instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or unflyable-model. In a few cases
the plans and instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances you should assume the plans and written
instructions are correct
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches
INSTRUCTIONS IN BOXES LIKE THIS
ARE VERY IMPORTANT AND SHOULD
BE FOLLOWED CAREFULLY
3
DIE PATTERNS
Use this drawing to help you identify the die cut parts
4
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine size range is as follows:
.40* - .46 cubic inch displacement 2-cycle
.48 - .70 cubic inch displacement 4-cycle
*NOTE: Performance may be marginal if a non-schneurleported .40 cu.in. 2-Cycle engine is used.
NOTE: If you install a 2-Cycle engine, we recommend
using a muffler that can be completely enclosed inside
the cowl. The muffler shown in the instruction book
photos is a Tatone #11434 Pitts Style Muffler for .45 - .80
engines.
The engine you select will determine how you build the
fuselage, so it is important that you have the engine close at
hand while building.
This kit includes a Great Planes MM40 engine mount
that fits most .40 - .45 (2-Cycle) engines (only slight modification of this mount is required to mount the OS40SF and
OS45SF). If you are installing an OS48 SURPASS (4-cycle),
you may purchase a Great Planes MM60 mount. If you are
planning to install the OS70 SURPASS (4-cycle), you may
purchase the Great Planes MM60L mount. If you prefer, you
may purchase a custom engine mount for your engine, or you
may choose to install shock-absorbing rubber-cushioned
mounts.
NOTE:
with a 4-cycle engine, keep in mind that the RPM of your
engine will be considerably less than that of a 2-Cycle
engine; therefore, you should select a higher pitch
propeller to keep the speed and overall performance
roughly equivalent to that of a 2-Cycle engine. For
example, a 10x6 or 10x7 prop would be used with a .40
(2-Cycle) engine; but a 12x8,11x9 or 10x10 prop may be
the best choices for a 4-cycle engine.
If you
choose to power your Super Decathlon 40
SELECTION OF WHEELS
For maximum scale realism, 2-1/4" diameter main
wheels and a 1" diameter tail wheel may be used. However,
for better handling, we recommend 2-1/2" main wheels and a
1-1/8" or 1-1/4" tail wheel. For operation from a rough grass
field, leave the wheel pants off and use 2-3/4" or 3" main
wheels. To save weight, we recommend using lightweight
foam rubber wheels.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Four-channel radio with 4 servos
Propellers (see engine instructions for recommended size)
Spinner (2-1/4" diameter)
Fuel Tank (10 or 12 ounce)
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive
2 oz. Medium or Thick CA Adhesive
2.5 oz. 5-Minute Epoxy
2.5 oz. 30-Minute Epoxy
Hand or Electric Drill
Sealing Iron
Heat Gun
Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64", 5/32".
11/64". 3/16", 13/64". 7/32", and 1/4"
Hobby Saw (Xacto Razor Saw)
Xacto Knife. #11 Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
T-Pins
3/32" Wheel Collars - 2
Iron-on Covering Material (red & white for scale)
1/16" and 1/8" Striping Tape (blue for scale)
Silicone Fuel Tubing
Wing Seating Tape (or silicone sealer... see instructions)
Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
Dubro "E-Z Connector" (optional)
Straightedge
Masking Tape
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
Waxed Paper
Lightweight Balsa Filler
1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
Isopropyi Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar
sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100 and #150-grit
sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for almost
any sanding task. We also keep some #320-grit wet-ordry sandpaper handy for finish sanding before covering.
5
TYPES OF WOOD
BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD
HARDWARE DRAWINGS,
GET READY TO BUILD
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out to
make them lie flat.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the
name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts
list at the back of this book. Using a felt tip pen, write the part
name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later. Use the
die-cut patterns on page 4 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before punching out. Save all scraps. If any of the
die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them!
Instead, first cut around the parts with an Xacto knife. After
punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding
block to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin and stab (stabilizer), and hardware.
"TAIL FEATHERS"
BUILD THE RUDDER
To build the rudder you'll need the following:
1/4" x 3/4" x 36" balsa sticks
1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa sticks
1/4" shaped balsa rudder bottom
D 1. Tape the fuselage plan down to your flat work
surface. Tape a piece of waxed paper over the fin and rudder
portion of the plan.
NOTICE:
The screws supplied in this kit may be "slottedhead" or "phillips-head" screws. The screw types may
differ from those shown on the plans and instructions, but
they are interchangeable.
D 2. Using a razor saw, cut pieces of 1/4" x 3/4" and 1/4"
x 1/2" balsa (from the 36" and 30" sticks) to make the rudder
framework. Working right on the plan, glue together these
pieces and the rudder bottom, using thin CA glue.
6
D 3. From the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" sticks, cut "braces" to fit
between the rudder framework, and glue them in place.
NOTE: It is not necessary to get these braces in the exact
position shown on the plan.
D 4. Examine the rudder framework and add thick CA
glue to any open
sandpaper to sand both sides of the rudder framework smooth.
D 5. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of
the rudder (this will help to maintain symmetry when sanding).
joints,
then use
your T-bar
with
medium grit
hole is drilled slightly oversize to allow for positioning, and
to create a hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire). Then
groove the rudder leading edge to accept the tailgear wire .
(See the photo at step 5 on page 15). HINT: Using an Xacto
knife, sharpen the inside of one end of a 1/8" diameter brass
tube, and use it to cut the groove in the leading edge of the
rudder.
BUILD THE FIN
D 6. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper as shown
on the plans. The trailing edge should end up approximately
3/32" wide and have a rounded shape. (Do not sand to a sharp
edge). Sand the top edge to a rounded shape. Sand the
leading edge to a "V-shape" as shown on the plan.
D 7. Check the plans and mark the location of the
tailgear on the rudder. Drill a 7/64" hole in the rudder (the
D 1. In the same manner as the rudder, build the fin using
the 1/4" x 3/4" and 1/4" x 1/2" balsa sticks. Also, cut 1" from
the 1/4" x 3/4" x 36" balsa stick, and from this small piece cut
the triangular gusset for the front comer of the fin.
D 2. Carefully draw a centerline on the leading and
trailing edges of the fin.
D 3. Sand the leading edge (only) to a round shape.
NOTE: The trailing edge, bottom edge and top edge
must not be rounded or V-shaped, instead, just sand
these edges flat and square.
7
BUILD THE STABILIZER
You'll need the following parts:
1/4" x 1" x 17-7/8" balsa suck
1/4" x 3/4" x 36" balsa sticks
1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa sticks
1/4" shaped balsa stab tie
1/4" shaped balsa stab center
D 1. Tape waxed paper over the separate stabilizer draw-
ing on the fuse plan. In the same manner as the rudder, cut
balsa pieces and build the stab framework.
D 2. Sand a flat spot on the leading edge at the center, as
shown on the plan.
D 2. Sand the elevator tips to the shape as shown on the
plan.
D 3. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of
the elevators.
D 4. Sand the leading edge to a "V-shape, the trailing
edge to a round shape, and the outside edge of the tip to a
round shape.
D 5. Temporarily tape the elevators to the stab, providing
1/16" clearance between the elevator tip and the stab end.
D 3. Carefully draw a centerline on the leading and
trailing edges of the stab.
D 4. Sand the leading edge (only) to a round shape.
NOTE: The trailing edge and ends must not be rounded or Vshaped. Instead, just sand these edges flat and square.
BUILD THE ELEVATORS
You'll need the following parts:
1/4" x 3/4" balsa stick
1/4" x 1/2" balsa sticks
1/4" shaped balsa elevators
1/8" bent wire elevator joiner
D 6. Lay the 1/8" wire elevator joiner in place on the ele-
vators and mark its outline using a fine point felt-tip pen.
D 7. Accurately drill holes in the elevators for the 1/8"
wire joiner. Begin by drilling a 1/16" or 5/64" pilot hole, then
drill the final hole to a depth of 7/8" with a 9/64" drill bit.
(The hole is drilled slightly oversize to allow for positioning,
and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire).
D 1. Position the shaped balsa elevators on the plan, then,
from the 1/4" x 1/2" sticks, cut pieces to make the elevator
tips. Glue these pieces to the ends of the elevators.
D 8. Use the sharpened 1/8" diameter brass tube to cut
grooves in the leading edge of the elevators to accept the
joiner wire.
D 9. Roughen the joiner wire with coarse sandpaper, then
clean the wire thoroughly with alcohol to remove any oily
residue.
8
D 10. Trial fit the joiner wire into the elevators, then glue
it in using 5-minute or 30-minute epoxy. When gluing, lay
the elevators on a flat surface, with the leading edges along a
straightedge to insure perfect alignment
INSTALL THE HINGES (Do not glue)
NOTE: One-piece molded polypropylene hinges are
supplied in this kit. If you choose to use these hinges or
the' 'pinned' '-type hinges, you may cut the hinge slots at
this time. However, if you choose to use the one-piece
hinges that are paper covered for CA glue installation,
you may wait until after covering before cutting the hinge
slots, because this will be easier than trying to find the
slot locations under the covering.
D 1. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE and
transfer the marks over to the fin. Place the elevators against
the stab TE and transfer the marks over to the stab.
CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care when
cutting hinge slots with an Xacto knife, to avoid
cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks while you
are pushing on the knife, the blade could go into your
hand before you know it! A good precaution is to
wear leather gloves while performing the following
steps, and always cut awav from yourself.
B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line,
going slightly deeper each time. As you make these
additional cuts, work on going straight into the wood.
Continue this process while "wiggling" the knife
handle back and forth until the blade has reached the
proper depth for the hinge.
C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is
difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and move it back
and forth in the slot a few times to enlarge the slot
D 3. IMPORTANT! Condition or "break-in" the
hinges by folding them back and forth several times.
D 4. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the rudder
and elevators in place on the fin and stab. Do not glue the
hinges until after you have covered the model.
WING ASSEMBLY
BUILD THE WING PANELS
NOTE: The following instructions explain how to build
the wing directly on the plans. An alternate method is to
use a Great Planes Wing Jig (available from your local
hobby dealer). Many expert modelers prefer to use a
wing jig for high performance airplanes, as it helps to
insure a straight, warp-free wing, especially if you do not
have a workbench or building board that is perfectly flat.
If you choose to use the Wing Jig, please read the
instructions that are included with the jig before
beginning.
NOTE: It will be helpful to build the wing on a piece of
"Celotex" or other semi-soft (and flat) surface, into
which you may easily stick pins to firmly hold down the
wing pans while building, to avoid warps.
D 2. Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines
which you previously drew, using an Xacto knife or a
slotting fork and slotting hook. (The recommended hinge
slotting technique is listed below).
A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at
the hinge location. This first cut is to establish your cut
in the right place, so concentrate on staying on the
centerline and don't cut too deep!
D 1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface, and cover
the wing drawing with waxed paper (so you won't glue the
wing to the plan!). NOTE; If your work space is limited, you
may cut the left and right wing half drawings apart
D 2. The shaped and notched wing leading edges (LE)
and trailing edges (TE) are fastened together by thin strips of
balsa. Separate them by folding until the balsa breaks. Sand
away the excess balsa that remains along the edges after
breaking them apart, using a T-bar with 100-grit sandpaper.
9
D 3. Before using the 3/8" x 3/8" x 32" hard balsa spars,
examine them carefully for possible imperfections. Look for
knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and any other imperfections.
If possible, position each spar so the imperfections are on the
outer half of the wing panel (toward the tip), where they will
be least affected by high stress. If the spars are warped
slightly, try to "balance them out" by installing the warped
spars in opposite directions (see sketch).
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
STRAIGHT WING
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
WARPED WING
D 4. Carefully punch out all the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing
ribs. Sand the edges slightly to remove any die-cutting ir-
regularities.
D 5. Draw an accurate centerline along the rear edge of
the notched balsa trailing edges.
NOTE: Follow steps 6 through 21 to build the RIGHT
wing panel, then repeat these steps to build the LEFT
wing panel.
D D 6. Pin one of the notched balsa trailing edges to the
1/8" x 3/4" x 32" balsa TE Jig stick as shown in the following
sketch. Note that the top of the Jig stick must be on the
centerline which you have drawn on the trailing edge.
D D 7. Place one of the 3/8" x 3/8" balsa main spars on
the wing plan and pin the spar down with crossed T-pins as
shown in the following sketch. NOTE: The spars are cut
slightly too long, and the excess will be cut off later.
D D 8. Place one of the W-2 ribs and nine of the W-3
ribs on the spar in their approximate positions, but do not
glue.
D D 9. Hold the notched balsa trailing edge in place
(with TE Jig attached) and carefully work the ribs into the
notches, centering each rib up and down. Pin or tack glue the
TE Jig stick to your building surface, making sure the ribs
line up with the plan.
D D 10. Glue the W-2 and W-3 ribs to the TE. (Apply
glue sparingly, to avoid gluing the TE to the TE Jig).
10
D D 11. Insert the front ends of the ribs into the notches
in the LE. NOTE: Position the LE as shown in the following
sketch. CENTER L.E.
VERTICALLY ON
FRONT OF RIBS
D D 15. Lightly sand the tops of the ribs to blend with
the notched trailing edge; then glue one of the 3/32" x 1-1/4"
x 32" balsa trailing edge sheets in place. NOTE': The edge
of the TE sheet may not be exactly straight, but just position
the sheet so it slightly overlaps the TE, and any overlap can
be sanded off later.
D D 12. Make sure the ribs are fully down on the plan
and all ribs are inserted into the LE notches. Glue the W-2 and
W-3 ribs to the LE and bottom spar.
D D 13. Insert the top spar into the notches in the ribs.
From the excess 1/4" x 3/4" balsa (used in the fin & stab construction), cut two pieces, 2-1/2" long. Insert one of these
1/4" x 3/4" x 2-1/2" balsa spar fillers between the top and
bottom spars in the area between W-l and W-2 (to hold the
spars apart at the proper spacing), then glue the top spar to the
ribs. Glue the spar filler to the spars.
D D 16.
the next step, use your T-bar to lightly sand off the edges of
the shear webs and smoothly blend the ribs to the spar.
D D 17. Prepare the 3/32" x 2-5/8" x 30" balsa leading
edge sheeting by sanding the front edge to a slight bevel so it
will fit snugly against the back of the leading edge. (Check by
trial fitting)
NOTE: It will be helpful to have the following items
handy for the next step... thin CA, thick CA, a wet cloth,
masking tape and T-pins. Read through the following
step and go through a "dry run" before actually gluing.
Before
applying
the leading edge
shecting
in
D D 14. Glue five of the pre-cut 3/32" balsa vertical
grain shear webs to the rear edge of the spars in the locations
shown on the plan. NOTE: The webs must be securely glued
to the spars, but it is not necessary to glue the webs to the ribs.
NOTE: In the next steps, maintain straightness by
keeping the wing down on the Hat surface and on the
TE
Jig.
D D 18. Position the leading edge sheeting at the rear
edge of the notched LE so it is just overlapping rib W-2.
Using thin CA, glue the front (beveled) edge of the leading
edge sheeting to the back edge of the LE. Now wet the top
surface of the sheeting so it will bend easier. Apply thick CA
glue to the top edge of the ribs and to the front half of the spar,
then immediately bend the sheeting down onto the ribs and
spar. Hold the sheeting down with masking tape, pins and
your hands until the glue has set.
11
D D 19. From the 3/32" x 1/4" x 30" balsa sticks, cut and
glue cap strips to the top of the seven outside ribs. HINT:
For easier positioning of the cap strips, first mark the location
of each rib on the LE and TE sheeting. When finished,
remove the wing from the building board and turn it over
again.
D D 20. With the wing upside down, again use the TE
jig to support the TE. Then install the bottom TE sheeting, LE
sheeting and cap strips. IMPORTANT: To insure a
straight wing, you must pin the TE securely to the TE jig
and pin the jig to the building surface while the bottom
sheeting is glued in place!
D D 21. Trim the spars and sheeting flush with the tip
rib. Cut and sand the LE sheeting and LE flush with rib
W-2. and sand the entire wing panel smooth. Sand the leading
edge to smoothly blend with the LE sheeting (see the rib
cross-section on the plan for the desired LE shape).
wing plan, and block up the trailing edge 1/2", using the 1/2"
x 1/2" x 2" balsa blocks. Position the die-cut 1/8" ply
dihedral gauge (DG) on the wing centerline, as shown in the
photo, and mark cut-off lines on the spars, trailing edge and
TE sheeting. Carefully cut or sand off the spars and trailing
edge at these marks.
D 3. Accurately position the left wing panel on the left
wing plan. Mark and cut off the spars and TE as in step 2.
D 4. Lay a piece of waxed paper down at the center of the
wing, place the two wing panels together at the center, and
block up both wing tips 1/2-inch, and block up the trailing
edge 1/2-inch at the center (use the 1/2" x 1/2" x 2" balsa
blocks provided). If the spars do not mate with one another,
sand them slightly until they do.
D 5. Trial fit the die-cut 1/8" ply dihedral braces on
both sides of the spars to make sure they will readily slide
into place.
NOTE: Read steps 6 and 7, then make a "dry run'
through these steps before actually proceeding.
NOTE: 30-minute epoxy is strongly recommended
for the wing joining process.
D 22. Now go back and repeat steps 6 through 21, to build
the other wing panel. NOTE: The two wing panels are
identical, so you may build on the same plan.
JOIN THE WING PANELS
D 1. Designate one wing panel "RIGHT" and the other
"LEFT".
D 2. Accurately position the right wing panel on the right
D 6. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy and smear it on
the dihedral braces, spars, spar ends, and the mating surfaces
of the trailing edge. Slide the dihedral braces in place, push
the wing panels together and immediately proceed to the
next step.
D 7. With the wing tips blocked up 1/2-inch, carefully
align the spars and TE of both wing panels. Clamp the
dihedral braces to the spars and apply a few pieces of masking
tape to hold the trailing edges in correct alignment. Wipe up
the excess epoxy with a tissue. Allow the epoxy to fully
harden before disturbing the wing.
12
INSTALL CENTER RIBS AND SHEETING
D 1. Use a sanding block to sand off any excess epoxy on
the top and bottom of the spars in the center of the wing.
D 2. Remove the die-cut aileron servo "punch-outs"
from the two W-l wing ribs, then glue the W-l ribs together,
and trim and sand them to fit between the TE and the dihedral
brace. Glue the ribs in place with the opening for the aileron
servo facing down.
FILE END TO
WEDGE SHAPE
D 2. Roughen the surface of the plastic bearing tubes
with 100-grit sandpaper.
D 3. Clean the torque rods and bearing tubes with alco-
hol.
D 4. Find the two grooved, tapered balsa center trailing
edge pieces. Lay them on the plan and check them for length.
Mark and cut them off to match the plan, if necessary.
D 3. Using the 3/32" x 3" x 8-7/8" balsa sheets, glue the
center section sheeting in place on the top and bottom, as
shown on the plan. Sheet all the way to the front of the front
dihedral brace.
INSTALL AILERON TORQUE RODS
D 1. Roughen the short end of the aileron torque rods
with 100-grit sandpaper, and file the same end to a wedge
shape.
D 5. Trial fit the torque rods into the center TE pieces.
Determine from the plan where to cut the clearance notches,
which will permit the torque rod horns to travel freely. Also
cut small clearance notches in the wing TE. Note: The
torque rod horn (threaded end) must exit the BOTTOM of
the wing!
D 6. Slide the plastic bearings toward the threaded end of
the torque rods, then use a toothpick to apply a small amount
of petroleum jelly to the ends of the plastic tubes (to help
prevent glue from getting inside and locking up the torque
rods).
D 7. Use 5-minute epoxy or CA to glue the plastic bearing tubes into the grooves in the center TE pieces. Wipe off
any excess glue and allow it to harden.
13
use a scissors or a paper punch to cut holes in the glass cloth
for the aileron torque rod horns.
D 3. Wrap small pieces of masking tape around the
exposed portions of the aileron torque rods to protect them
from the spray adhesive in the next step.
D 8. Trial fit the trailing edge/torque rod assembly onto
the wing trailing edge. Sand the center trailing edge pieces
slightly where they join, for a good fit. The top and bottom
surfaces of these pieces should blend smoothly with the top
and bottom of the
(threaded ends pointing DOWN). SUGGESTION: If you
are using 5-minute epoxy, glue only one piece at a time. and
use masking tape to hold it to the wing TE, to aid in correct
positioning.
wing.
Glue
these pieces
in
place with epoxy
FIBERGLASS THE CENTER SECTION
NOTE: Because of the high stresses in the center of
this wing, fiberglass reinforcement is REQUIRED.
Please do not omit this important section!
NOTE: If you have previous experience applying
fiberglass, feel free to use your favorite method,
providing that it results in a strong bond between the
glass cloth and the wood. If this is your first time, we
offer the following suggested method, which is the
fastest and easiest we have seen.
D 4. Spray a very light mist of 3M "77" Spray
on the center section in the area to be glassed. Hold the spray
can at least 12" away from the surface when doing this to
avoid a heavy buildup. The purpose of this is only to give the
wood a little "tackiness". If you apply too much spray it
could result in a poor glue bond.
D 5. Lay the glass cloth in place on the top and bottom of
the wing. Gently press the cloth in place, working out all the
wrinkles. The "77" spray adhesive should hold the cloth
down to the surface, but will permit you to lift and reposition
the cloth if you make a mistake. Don't attempt to wrap the
cloth around the trailing edge.
D 6. Working outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area
apply thin CA glue to the glass cloth. Begin by running a
bead of glue down the center of the glass cloth strip, then
continue applying the glue in lines until all the cloth has been
secured. Run the thin CA out 1/4" beyond the edges of the
glass cloth to help protect the balsa sheeting when sanding
later. WARNING: This operation produces a larger than
normal quantity of CA fumes, so adequate ventilation is a
must!
D 7. Inspect the surface of the glass cloth. If any areas are
not glued down, apply a couple more drops of CA glue and
press down with a piece of waxed paper until the glue sets.
Adhesive
D 1. Make location marks for the fiberglass reinforcement cloth, 1-1/2" each way from the wing centerline.
NOTE: The cloth will be applied to the top and bottom
surfaces only. Do not apply cloth to the front surface of the
front dihedral brace.
D 2. Cut the length of 3" glass cloth in half, making two
equal lengths. Trial fit the fiberglass cloth in place. You can
D 8. To make sure the glass cloth is fully "wetted out"
and bonded to the balsa, you may apply more thin CA, a few
drops at a time, and spread it out with a piece of waxed paper.
D 9. After the glue has set, trim the excess cloth at the
front of the front dihedral brace and at the trailing edge with
a sharp Xacto knife followed by a sanding block.
D 10. Carefully sand the edges of the glass cloth with a
T-bar sander with 80 or 100-grit sandpaper, smoothly blend-
ing the edges to the wing. Also, lightly sand the surface of the
glass cloth with a piece of fine sandpaper held in your fingers
to remove any rough spots. WARNING: When sanding
fiberglass, wear a dust mask to avoid breathing airborne
glass libers.
D 11. You may now clean up any 3M "77" Overspray with
a tissue dampened with lighter fluid or K&B thinner.
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