Great Planes GPMA0179 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great
Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify

this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user­assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised to return
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, the modeler
is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK
FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS

CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY

AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

SPF4P03 for GPMA0179 V1.0© Copyright 2000

P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 [phone]

WWW.GREATPLANES.COM

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wing Span - 54.75 in
Wing Area - 526 sq in
Weight - 5 - 6 lbs
Wing Loading - 22 - 26 oz/sq ft
Fuse Length - 48 in

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..........................................................................2

PRECAUTIONS.........................................................................................2

INTRODUCTION .......................................................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE................................................................3

Engine Selection................................................................................3

Exhaust System.................................................................................3

Optional Retracts ...............................................................................3

PREPARATIONS .......................................................................................3

Accessories Required to Complete Your Spitfire...............................3

Suggested Building Supplies.............................................................4

Part Numbers for Other Tools or Accessories You May Require.......4

Building Notes....................................................................................5

Common Abbreviations .....................................................................5

Types of Wood ...................................................................................5

Get Ready to Build ............................................................................5

Metric Conversions ............................................................................5

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES ...................................................................6

Build the Stab/Elevators ....................................................................6

Build the Fin/Rudder..........................................................................7

Join, Bevel & Hinge the Tail Surfaces................................................8

BUILD THE WING .....................................................................................9

Assemble the Wing Sheeting.............................................................9

Prepare the Doubled Ribs .................................................................9

Assemble the Wing..........................................................................10

Join the Wing Panels.......................................................................15

Complete the Wing Panels..............................................................17

Build the Ailerons.............................................................................19

BUILD THE FUSELAGE..........................................................................20

Assemble the Fuselage Sides.........................................................20

Assemble the Fuselage Box............................................................20

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage .....................................................21

Finish the Bottom of the Fuselage...................................................23

Build the Top of the Fuselage ..........................................................24

Install the Pushrod Tubes ................................................................26

Mount the Stabilizer to the Fuselage...............................................26

Mount the Fin...................................................................................27

Mount the Engine ............................................................................27

Mount the Tailgear ...........................................................................28

Assemble the Cowl..........................................................................29

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY ....................................................30

PREPARE THE MODEL FOR COVERING.............................................30

COVER THE MODEL WITH MONOKOTE®FILM ...................................30

Covering Technique .........................................................................30

Suggested Covering Sequence.......................................................30

PAINT THE MODEL ................................................................................31

FINAL HOOK-UPS & CHECKS..............................................................31

Assemble & Install the Tank & Fuel Filler ........................................31

Attach the Control Surfaces.............................................................31

Install the Servos & Make the Pushrods .........................................32

Install the Landing Gear ..................................................................33

Final Servo & Receiver Installation..................................................33

Set the Control Throws....................................................................34

Mount the Canopy & Cowl...............................................................34

Balance Your Model.........................................................................34

PREFLIGHT.............................................................................................35

Charge the Batteries........................................................................35

Balance the Propeller ......................................................................35

Find a Safe Place to Fly ..................................................................35

Ground Check the Model.................................................................35

Range Check Your Radio.................................................................36

Engine Safety Precautions ..............................................................36

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)..............................................................36

FLYING ....................................................................................................36

Takeoff .............................................................................................37

Flying ...............................................................................................37

Landing ............................................................................................37

APPENDIX: FLIGHT TRIMMING ............................................................37

FLIGHT TRIMMING CHART ...................................................................39

TWO VIEW DRAWING...................................................Back Cover Page

DIE-CUT PATTERNS..................................Center Pull-Out Section A, D

FUSE & WING PLANS...............................Center Pull-Out Section B, C

Your Great Planes Spitfire is not a toy, but rather a

sophisticated,

working model that functions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the Spitfire, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury
to yourself or spectators and damage property.

If this is your first low wing sport model we recommend that you
get help from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler with
your first flights.You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your model
before you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors.

You may also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered
clubs across the country. Contact the AMA at the address or
toll-free phone number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

1. Build the plane according to the plans and instructions. Do
not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions are correct.

2. Take the time to build straight, true and strong.

3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition, and
a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank, wheels,
etc.) throughout the building process.

4. Properly install all components so that the model operates
correctly on the ground and in the air.

5. Check the operation of the model before every flight to
ensure that all equipment is operating, and that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check nylon clevises or
other connectors often and replace them if they show signs of
wear or fatigue.

PRECAUTIONS

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: PROTECT

YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF & OTHERS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you must fly
the model only with the help of a competent, well experienced
R/C pilot.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit with
the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also inspect all
parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any
parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this airplane, please call
us at [phone] or e-mail us at:

[e-mail].

If you are contacting us for replacement parts, please be
sure to provide the full kit name GP Spitfire .40 and the part
numbers as listed in the Parts List.

You can also check our web site at

www.greatplanes.com

for the latest GP Spitfire .40 updates.

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great Planes
Spitfire.

The best known of all British fighters was the Supermarine
Spitfire. The brainchild of R. J. Mitchell, the Spitfire

prototype
flew for the first time in March 1936 and two years later the first
operational squadron became active at Duxford airfield, near
London. During the Battle of Britain, Spitfires were used in
multiple roles, from day fighter to night interceptor to ground
support action, and were pitted against the best aircraft the
Germans could deliver. Over 20,000 were produced and
evolved through 24 marks, seeing service at every front during
and after the war. The last Spitfires were retired from front line
service in 1954. Today only 200 remain in museums and
private collections around the world. Of these, less than 50
remain in flying condition.

The best known Spitfires were the Mk V and the Mk IX. We
chose to kit the Mk IX with the traditional small fin and rounded
rudder as it is by far the most recognized model. The Great
Planes Spitfire was designed to reflect the nimble handling and
light wing loading of the original. The airframe is very light
without sacrificing strength to offer optimum performance with
most sport engines. The Great Planes Spitfire has enlarged tail
surfaces and flat sides for better sport performance and easy
assembly, as well as fully interlocking ribs/webs to make wing
construction a breeze.

❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 4-Channel Radio with 5 Standard Servos (twin aileron

servos required) and

❏ (2) 12" servo extensions (HCAM2100 for Futaba)
❏ (1) Y-Harness (HCAM2500 for Futaba) or computerized

radio

❏ Optional Retract Equipment –

See Optional Retracts

(page 3)

❏ Engine –

See Engine Selection (page 3)

❏ Muffler –

See Exhaust System (page 3)

❏ Spare glow plugs [O.S. #8 for most 2-stroke engines,

(OSMG2691), O.S. Type-F for most 4-stroke

engines,

(OSMG2629)]

❏ Propeller (Top Flite Power Point

®

); Refer to your

engine’s instructions for proper size

❏ Top Flite Super MonoKote

®

covering (approximately

2 rolls) –

See Covering (page 30)

Items in parentheses such as (OSMG2691) are suggested
part numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops
and are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the
Great Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite

®

brand, and HCA

is the Hobbico

®

brand.

Accessories Required to Complete Your Spitfire

PREPARATIONS

Engine Selection

There are several engines that will work well in the Spitfire,
but for unlimited performance we recommend a hot 2-stroke
such as an O.S.

®

46FX or SuperTigre® GS45. If you prefer

a 4-stroke, an O.S. .52 Surpass

™

works well and the O.S. .70

makes exceptional performance a part of every flight

experience.

Exhaust System

If you choose to use a 2-stroke engine you will need an in­cowl muffler for the best appearance. On our prototype
Spitfire with the O.S. .46FX, we used the Slimline #3208

Sport Muffler (SLIG3208). With the O.S. Surpass .52 and
Surpass .70, we used the stock exhaust included with the

engines, and a Hobbico

®

Exhaust Deflector (HCAP2175).

Optional Retracts

For optimum flight performance and scale looks, consider
installing optional mechanical retracts. We provide detailed
instructions for their installation. Note that a 5-channel radio
is required for retracts

plus

the following additional items:

❏ (1) Retract servo (FUTM0670)
❏

(1) Pair of .40-size mechanical main retracts

(HCAP4010)

❏ (1) Pair .40 size axles, 1-1/4" x 5/32" (GPMQ4279)
❏ (2) Screw-Lock

™

pushrod connectors (GPMQ3870)

❏

(2) 2-56 x 12" Pushrods with 2-56 clevises

(GPMQ3772)

❏

(8) #4 x 5/8" Sheet metal screws (for mounting

retracts)

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

INTRODUCTION

Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top

quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality
and flyability of your finished model depends on how you
build it; therefore we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

3

❏ Fuelproof paint –

See Painting (page 31)

❏ Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131, 3')
❏ 1/4" Latex foam rubber padding (HCAQ1000)
❏ 10 oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4104)
❏ (2) 2-1/2" Wheels (GPMQ4223)
❏ (1) 3/4" Tailwheel (GPMQ4240)
❏ 3" Spinner (GPMQ4530 – white)
❏ Pilot (DGA 1/6 scale sportsman pilot used in prototype,

DGAQ2010) (Optional)

❏

Fueling system (Great Planes Easy Fueler™,

GPMQ4160)

❏ 1-ft section of Velcro

®

or other non-adhesive backed

hook and loop material

These are the building tools, glue, etc. that we recommend and
mention in the manual.

We recommended Great Planes Pro

™

CA and Epoxy.

❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 1 oz. Thick CA- (GPMR6014)
❏ 2 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003)
❏ 2 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ 6-Minute Pro epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Pro epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue (PAAR3300)
❏ #1 Hobby knife handle (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 Qty.)
❏ X-ACTO

®

razor saw (XACR2531)

❏ Builder’s triangle set (HCAR0480)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Medium T-pins (HCAR5150)
❏ Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ 1/4-20 (GPMR8105), and 6-32 (GPMR8102) Drill and

tap sets

❏

Dead Center™engine mount hole locator

(GPMP8130)

❏ Groove Tube

™

(GPMR8140)

❏ Electric power drill
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 5/32", #18 or

11/64", 3/16", #10 or 13/64" (unless purchased with
1/4-20 tap listed above), 7/32", 1/4", 17/64"

❏ Specialty drill bit or brass tube – 1/4" drill bit (6" long) or

brass tube

❏ Monofilament string for aligning wing and stabilizer
❏ Screwdrivers (phillips and flat blade)
❏ HobbyLite

™

balsa filler (HCAR3401)

❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏ C.G. Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ AccuThrow

™

deflection meter (GPMR2405)

❏ Bar sander or sanding block and sandpaper (coarse,

medium, fine grit)

❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Epoxy mixing sticks (GPMR8055, Qty. 50)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Clevis installation tool (GPMR8030)
❏ Hot Sock

™

(TOPR2175)

❏ Trim Seal Tool

™

(TOPR2200)

❏ Heat gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0312, 100 Qty.)
❏ Razor plane (MASR1510)
❏ 36" Non-slip straightedge (HCAR0475)
❏ Denatured or isopropyl alcohol (for epoxy clean-up)
❏ Dremel

®

Moto-Tool®or similar w/sanding drum, cutting

burr, cut-off wheel

❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)

Part Numbers for Other Tools or

Accessories You May Require

In our busy workshop we use the Great Planes Easy-

Touch

Bar Sanders equipped with Great Planes #80, #150 and

#220-grit Easy-Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper. Great
Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from light
weight, rigid, extruded aluminum and can be found at

most

hobby shops. They are available in three sizes...5-

1/2"
(GPMR6169) and 11" (GPMR6170) for most general purpose
sanding and 22" (GPMR6172) for long surfaces

such as wing

leading edges. The Easy-Touch Adhesive-

Backed Sandpaper

comes in 2" x 12' rolls of 80-grit

(GPMR6180), 150-grit

(GPMR6183), and 220-grit

(GPMR6185) and an assortment
pack of 5-1/2" long strips (GPMR6189) for the short Bar
Sander.The adhesive backed sandpaper is easy to apply and
remove from your Easy Touch Bar Sander when it’s time for
replacement.

This setup is all that is required for almost any sanding task.
Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa or hardwood
blocks and sticks for sanding difficult-to-reach spots. We also
keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper for finish sanding
just before covering.

Suggested Building Supplies

4

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and
a length.

For example #4 x 3/4"

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4"

• When you see the term “test fit” in the instructions, it means
you should first position the part on the assembly without
using any glue, then slightly modify or “custom fit” the part as
necessary for the best fit. Do not glue until told to do so.

• When you see the term “fit” in the instructions, it means you
should first position the part on the assembly without using
any glue, then modify or “custom fit” the part as necessary for
the best fit. Glue when you are satisfied with the fit.

• Whenever just “epoxy” is specified you may use

either

30-minute epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is
specified it is highly recommended that you use only
30-minute epoxy because you will need the working time
and/or the additional strength.

• Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we tell you to “glue the top main spar”
or “trim the bottom of the former.” It is understood that the “top”
or “bottom” of the model is as it would be when the airplane is
right-side-up and will be referred to as the “top” even if the
model is being worked on upside-down. I.E. the “top” main spar
is always the “top” main spar even when the wing is being built
upside-down.

• Where you see the term “glue,” it is at your option to select
the thickness of CA with which you are most comfortable. If the
step indicates a particular thickness of glue, be sure to use the
thickness recommended for strength, penetration, and/or
working time.

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Vertical Fin

LE = Leading Edge (front)

TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

1. Unroll the plan sheet. Re-roll it inside out to make it lie flat.

Note: Do NOT cut the vertical fin plan from the fuselage
plan for assembly of the vertical tail.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the
name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts
list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or ballpoint pen, lightly
write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion
later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on back side of the center
pull-out section, to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before removing them from the sheet. Save all scraps. If any
of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them!
Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife. After punching
out the die-cut parts, use your Bar Sander or sanding block to
lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities
or slivers.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer) and

hardware.

Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store the small

parts as you sort, identify, and separate them into sub-

assemblies.

Get Ready to Build

Types of Wood

Common AbbreviationsBuilding Notes

5

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm

5/32" = 4mm

3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm

18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

Metric Conversions

Don’t forget to cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector
so the glue won’t stick to the plan.

Note: Be sure to save all of the leftover pieces from building the
stabilizer. These pieces will be utilized in constructing the fin.

❏ 1. Laminate the two die-cut 1/8" balsa stab centers with

medium CA, creating the stab center. Laminate the four die-cut
1/8" balsa elevator horn supports EHS, creating two horn
supports.

❏ 2. Pin the stab center in position over the plan.

❏ 3. Select the 3/16" x 1/4" x 6" basswood stab spar. Sand a

bevel on both ends as shown on the plans. Glue the stab spar
to the stab center.

Note: Some stab photos do not show the stab spar in place.
Follow the text and plans.

❏ 4. From the 1/4" x 1/4" x 18" sticks, cut and glue the stab

trailing edge to the stab spar. Cut the stab trailing edge angles,

elevator leading edge, and elevator leading edge angles. Note:
Be sure to leave long enough segments of 1/4" x 1/4" stick for
the fin.

Hint: Single-edge razor blades work well for making clean
vertical cuts in sticks such as those used for the tail framework
on this model.

❏

5. Glue the angled portion of the stab trailing edge to the

straight
section of the stab trailing edge, and the angled portion of the
elevator leading edge to the straight section of the elevator
leading edge. Note: Do not glue the angled pieces to each

other.

❏ 6. Position the horn supports you made in step 1 and the

die-cut 1/8" balsa elevator jigs H1-H4 over the plans. From the
leftover 1/4" stick, cut, fit and glue the elevator roots to the
elevator leading edges and horn supports. Glue the horn
supports to the elevator leading edges. Note: The jigs are f

or

alignment only and DO NOT remain in the elevators.

❏ 7. Using 1/8" x 1/4" x 18" sticks, fit and glue the remaining

stab and elevator framework.

Note: Refrain from using excessive accelerator. Even hours after
it’s sprayed on, residual accelerator can prematurely and
unexpectedly cure the CA you use later on nearby glue joints.
Unless you must handle or remove the part from the building
board right away we recommend using no accelerator at all.

Build the Stab/Elevators

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

6

❏❏8. Select two 1/16" x 1/4" x 24" strips for the stab outer

frame. Wet one side of the first strip by dipping your finger in

water, then running it along the one side of the strip. Take care
not to wet both sides. Using medium CA, secure the dry side of
the strip to the middle of the stab center working toward the tip.
Note: Water accelerates CA much like commercial

accelerators,

so be careful not to get anything wet that should not be.

Hint: Another way to wet the strips is by holding them in the air
and spraying with a spray bottle. Do not spray the strips while
sitting on a flat surface, or both sides will get wet.

❏❏9. Slowly wrap the strip from the stab center all the way

around to the inboard elevator roots, securing it with thin CA as
you go. Take care to stay tight against the ribs, leading and
trailing edges, and jigs. Remember not to glue to the jigs.

❏ 10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for the left side of the stab.

❏ 11. Wet one side of the next strip.Turn it over and lay a bead

of medium CA down the other side. Staggering the joint 1/2"
from all previous joints, but being sure to keep the joints
supported by the stab center, glue the next strip onto the
previous one. Trim the strip flush with the elevator inboard root.
Note: If you can work fairly quickly, the last applied strip will still
be wet on the outside. This will accelerate the CA, securing the
strips to one another immediately. If you crack the strip, don’t
worry. Just hold it in place until the medium CA cures and then,
seal it with thin CA if necessary.

❏

12. Apply the remaining 5 strips.Remember to stagger the

joints.

❏ 13. Unpin the stab from the plans and remove the jigs.

Inspect all glue joints and re-glue with CA as necessary. Use a
bar sander or a large sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper to
sand the entire top and bottom surface of the stab framework
until it is flat and even. Be careful while sanding so that you do
not over-thin any one particular area of the stab or gouge the
stab ribs by snagging the sandpaper on them.

❏ 14. Round all edges of the stab and elevators to the shape

shown on the cross-section on the plans. Hint: Labeling the
elevators “left” and “right,” and labeling the bottom of the stab,
will ensure proper assembly later.

❏ 15. Cut the stab outer frame between the elevator angled

leading edges and stab angled trailing edges, separating the
elevators from the stab. Sand the outer frame smooth.

Don’t forget to cover the fin area of the plan with Great Planes
Plan Protector so the glue won’t stick to the plan. DO NOT cut
the vertical fin plan from the fuselage plan.

❏ 1. Using the leftover 1/4" x 1/4" balsa stick from the stab, cut,

fit, pin and glue all 1/4" sticks into the fin and rudder, being
careful not to glue any fin pieces to any rudder pieces.

❏

2.

Note: Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

Laminate the two die-cut 1/8" balsa rudder horn

supports RHS

making the rudder horn support.

Build the Fin/Rudder

7

❏ 3. From a 1/8" x 1/4" x 18" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the

fin and rudder inner framework in place. Position and glue the
rudder horn support to the framework.

❏

4. Position and pin the die-cut 1/8" balsa rudder jigs V1 –

V3

over the plan. Note: Remember that the jigs are

only

temporary

and should not be glued to any parts at any time.

❏ 5. Wet one side of one 1/16" x 1/4" x 24" balsa fin outer

frame strip. Use medium CA to glue the strip to the rudder,

then fin framework, wrapping from the bottom of the rudder
counterclockwise to the bottom of the fin as you did for the
elevator. Note: There are no joints on the vertical tail. All strips
wrap from the bottom of the rudder to bottom of the fin.

❏ 6. Wetting the outside and laying a bead of medium CA on

the inside face, apply the remaining three outer frame strips in
succession. Note: Remember that the outer strips will secure

more
easily to the inner layers if you work fairly quickly because the
water on the outside of the inner strips will accelerate the CA.

❏ 7. Unpin the fin/rudder, remove the jigs, and sand both sides

smooth. Round both the fin and the rudder as shown on the
cross-section on the plans.

❏ 8. Cut the outer frame between the fin and rudder and sand

the strips smooth.

Note: We do not recommend using any pin style hinges on
this model.

❏ 1. Lay the stab and elevators inverted on your work surface.

Align the elevators properly against the stab, taking care to
match the angled leading edges to the angled trailing edge of
the stab.

❏

2. Position the wire elevator joiner over the elevators,

centered
on and aligned with the trailing edge of the stab.Trace the joiner
onto the elevators.

❏ 3. Drill 1/8" holes through the elevators’ leading edges at the

position you marked to the depth you marked to properly fit
the joiner.

❏

4. Using a Great Planes Groove Tube™(GPMR8140), or a

sharpened
brass tube, cut a groove in the elevator leading edges from the
hole to the root so that the elevator joiner fits flush into the
elevators.

❏❏

5. Place the stab over its location on the plan. Lightly

mark

the hinge locations on the trailing edge with a ballpoint

pen.

Mark the hinge locations on the elevators in the same

manner.

To cut the hinge slot, place the blades onto the wood where
you want the slot. Lightly press the teeth into the wood. When
you are satisfied with the location, press the button on the
handle and the blades will cut easily into the balsa wood.

We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots with the
introduction of the Great Planes Slot Machine

™

. This simple

electric tool cuts a perfect width slot for use with CA hinges.

Join, Bevel & Hinge the Tail Surfaces

8

❏❏6. (

Complete step 6 only if you will not be using the

Great Planes Slot Machine to cut the hinge slots.)

Cut the
hinge slots in the elevator and stabilizer using a #11 blade.
Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge
location to accurately establish the hinge slot. Make three or
four more cuts, going a little deeper each time. As you cut, slide
the knife from side to side until the slot has reached the proper
depth and width for the hinge.

❏ 7. Cut twenty-four 3/4" x 1" hinges from the supplied 2" x 9"

CA hinge material, then snip off the corners. Use 4 hinges to
temporarily join the elevators to the stab, adjusting any hinge
slots if necessary so they all align. Do not glue in the hinges

until you are instructed to do so.

❏

8. Return to steps 5 and 6 and complete the same

procedure,

using 3 hinges to hinge the rudder to the fin.

❏ 9. Shape the leading edge of the elevators and rudder to a

“V” as shown in the cross-section on the plans.

❏

10. Test fit the joiner wire into your elevator halves. Confirm that
the elevators lay flat on your work surface. Bend the joiner
slightly as needed to achieve perfect alignment. Epoxy the
elevator joiner into both elevator halves.

That’s about it for the tail surfaces. They’re a little more work
than stick or sheet surfaces, but they are much lighter,
exceptionally strong, and a nice piece of craftsmanship. Clean
off the building board and get ready for the wing!

Right now, while the building board is clear, is a great time to
assemble the wing sheeting.

❏❏1. Edge glue three 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets together.

Make a diagonal cut from 3" down one short side to 3" up the
other short side of the sheet, starting and finishing the cuts at
the joints, creating two LE sheets.

❏

2. Repeat the step to build the LE sheets for the second

wing.

❏

1. Select both of the die-cut 1/8" balsa wing ribs W6 and

W9

and wing rib doublers W6A and W9A. Position the two W9
ribs mirrored to one another as shown in the photo. Glue the
two W9A doublers onto the outboard sides of W9 ribs. Position
the two W6 ribs mirrored, and glue the two W6A doublers onto
the inboard sides of the W6 ribs. Label the ribs right and left.

Prepare the Doubled Ribs

Assemble the Wing Sheeting

BUILD THE WING

1"

[25mm]

1"

[25mm]

3/4"

[19mm]

CUT HINGE SLOT
WITH HOBBY KNIFE
AND #11 BLADE

9

At this time, you must decide if your model will have fixed or
retractable landing gear. The parts used are identical, but the
cut outs made will vary based upon which type of landing gear
will be installed. Carefully read and follow the instructions which
match your landing gear type.

❏ 2. Select the two die-cut 1/8" ply wing rib doublers W4A

and W5A.

If you are using retracts,

cut out the 2 individual notches in the

ply doublers as shown in the photo.

If you are using fixed gear,

cut out the single notch in all four ply

doublers, two of which are shown in the photo.

❏ 3. Select the two die-cut 3/32" balsa wing ribs W4 and W5.

Position the W4 ribs mirrored to one another and glue the W4A
doublers onto the outboard sides of W4. Position the W5 ribs
mirrored to one another and glue the W5A doublers onto the
inboard sides of W5. Label the ribs left and right. Cut the
notches from the W4 and W5 ribs, using the notches in W4A
and W5A as guides.

We’ll begin by building the left wing upside-down over the left
wing bottom view plan. Remember that the wing is being built
upside-down as you work. Also keep in mind that we will refer
to the “bottom” or “top” as being the aircraft’s actual bottom or
top at all times.

Note that one wing panel on the plan demonstrates fixed gear
mounting and the other demonstrates retractable gear
mounting. If you are using retracts, you will still build your left
wing over the left wing view, but refer to the right wing view for
retract equipment mounting. If you are using fixed gear, you will

still build your right wing over the right wing view, but refer to the
left wing view for fixed gear mounting.

❏❏1. Cover the left wing panel plan with Great Planes Plan

Protector.

❏❏

2. Select the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing ribs W1 through

W9

and the die-cut 1/8" main web. Position and glue W1 onto the
web, making sure that the web aligns with the bottom of the
spar notch and is square to the rib, as shown in the photo.

Note: It is possible to put the ribs onto the web upside-down,
but the spar notches will not align if you do so. Be sure to
double-check every rib’s direction as you build. Also, it is
CRITICAL that the ribs be locked tight against the web and
square to the web.

❏❏3. Slide ribs W2 and W3 onto the web and lock in place

as shown in the photos. Confirm they are square, fully locked
against the web and right-side-up, and glue in place. Confirm
the W4, W5, W6 and W9 ribs you have are for your left wing
(doublers W4A and W6A are on the outboard side and W5A
and W9A are on the inboard side of the ribs). Position and glue
ribs W4 through W9 onto the web.

❏❏

4. Position one 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" basswood top spar over

the

plans, aligning the outboard end with the outboard edge of W9.

Assemble the Wing

10

❏ 5. Position the ribs/web assembly you began in step 3

upside-down on the plans, locking the spar into the ribs. Glue
the spar to the web and ribs with thin CA. Pin along both sides
of the spar in at least 2 locations to make sure the spar stays
straight. Note:The top half of the rib is distinctly more curved
and should be toward the work surface, and the gear support
cut outs are away from the work surface.

❏❏

6. Test fit one 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" basswood bottom spar

into
the ribs, again aligning the outboard end with the outboard
edge of W9. Lay a bead of medium CA along the spar, then glue
it into the ribs and onto the web.

❏❏

7. Select one die-cut 1/8" balsa trailing edge top TET.
Test fit TET into the top slot of the ribs (remembering the wing
is upside-down). Slide TET out of the ribs, and sand a taper on
the trailing edge, using the cross-section on the plan as a
guideline. Note: TET and TEB are very similar, but TET has 3
holes; TEB has 4.

❏❏8. Slide TET back into the top notches in the ribs with the

beveled edge toward the bottom of the wing (remembering that
the wing is upside-down). Lock it tight against the ribs, then pull
it flush against the top of the wing ribs and glue to each rib.

❏❏9. Position and glue one die-cut 1/8" balsa trailing edge

web TEW to W6, W7, W8 and W9 over the plans, keeping it

straight and tight against the trailing edge of W7 and W8.

❏❏

10. Select one each die-cut 3/32" balsa wing tip A and

B.

Lock the tabs into W9 and align the outboard ends with the
main web. Glue the wing tips to the web and W9.

❏❏

11. Select one 1/16" x 3/4" x 30" balsa sub LE. Position

one
end centered on wing tip A with excess extending past the flat
area on the wing tip. Position the other end centered vertically
on W1, allowing the excess to overhang W1. Working slowly,
glue the sub LE to the wing tip, then to ribs W9 through W2.
Note: Do not glue to W1 at this time.

❏❏

12. Note that the main web may have twisted W1. Using

a
ruler or straight edge, be sure W1 is straight from trailing to
leading edge, then glue to the sub LE.

If you are using retracts, complete Steps 13R – 17R.
If you are using fixed gear, complete Steps 13F – 15F.

RETRACTS

❏❏13R. Select two 3/8" x 1/2" x 3-3/8" maple retract gear

rail. Position them in ribs W4 and W5 and glue in place.

11

❏❏14R. Position the retract body over the gear rails and

against W4. Using a rotary tool or other cutting tool, cut a
groove through W4 for the gear’s actuator so that the retract
body sits flush on the retract rails tight against W4.

❏❏

15R. With the retract body in position, trace around the

retract
coil on the mounting rails. Using your rotary tool, cut away
where the coil makes contact so the retract strut can completely
retract at W4.

❏❏16R. Cut the retract strut to the length shown on the plan.

Note: The strut extends past the center of the wheel well to
support the axle.

❏❏

17R. Use a 3/32" drill to drill pilot holes through the

retract
body’s mounting holes into the retract rails. Using four #4 x 5/8"
sheet metal screws (not included), temporarily screw the retract
body to the retract rails. Trim W3 until the retract strut can lock
into its retracted position. Remove the retract from the wing and
use a small amount of thin CA in each of the 4 retract screw
holes to harden the threads.

❏ Proceed to Step 18.

FIXED GEAR

❏❏13F. Select one of the 1/2" x 7/8" x 3-3/8" maple fixed

gear rail. Position it in ribs W4 and W5 and glue in place.

❏❏

14F. Epoxy one of the 1/2" x 1/2" x 7/8" maple torque

block

to the top of the fixed gear rail and flush against W5. Note: The
leading edge is removed from this photo for clarity.

❏❏15F. Drill a 5/32" hole through the fixed gear rail and the

torque block with the outboard edge of the hole flush with the
W5A doubler.

❏ 16. Proceed to step 18.

❏❏18. Using a razor plane, shape the sub LE to match the

airfoil shape of the ribs as shown in the sketch.

❏❏19. Unpin the wing from the work surface. Select one LE

sheet you made earlier. Practice positioning the LE sheet with
the outboard edge flush with the outboard edge of W9 and the

12

trailing edge on the center of the main spar. Coat the forward
half of the main spar with medium CA and press the LE sheet
down firmly in place, holding in position until the CA cures.
Carefully roll the sheeting back from the ribs and lay a bead of
medium CA along the ribs and the sub LE. Weight the sheeting
onto the ribs and sub LE and allow the CA to cure. Note: If
using retracts, do not glue the sheeting to the retract rails. If
using fixed gear, DO glue the sheeting to the fixed gear rails.

❏❏20. Lift the wing off the work surface. Trim and sand the

LE sheet flush with the sub LE and everything flush with W1.

❏❏

21. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa servo tray support

STS

perpendicular to the die-cut 1/8" ply servo tray ST as shown in
the photo.

❏❏22. Position ST flush against the top of the bottom spar

and W6, locking STS into the lightening hole in W6. Glue ST
and STS to the spar and W6.

❏❏

23. Using a piece of leftover 3/32" balsa, make servo

sheeting
over the servo tray. Glue the servo sheeting to the spar, W6 and
ST. Turn the wing right-side-up. Using another piece of leftover
balsa, cut and glue a sheeting support from ST to the servo
sheeting.

❏❏

24. Cut the opening for the servo in the sheeting, using

the
servo tray as a guide. Hint: While the wing is right-side-up, use
a hobby knife to cut just the corners of the servo opening. Turn
the wing upside-down again, and use a straightedge to cut
straight lines between the 4 corners you marked. Remove the
piece of sheeting.

❏❏

25. With the wing upside-down, fit the aileron servo in

place

and trim the sheeting around the servo, leaving room for the

13