Great Planes GPMA0177 User Manual
Instruction Manual
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case
shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION
MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING
THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
CRS4P03
11/95
V.1
3005058
PO Box 788 Urbana, Illinois 61801 (217)398-8970
Entire Contents © Copyright 1995
Precautions
....................................................3
Introduction....................................................3
Decisions you must make.............................3
Engine selection.........................................3
Other items required...................................3
Suggested supplies and tools ....................4
Common abbreviations...............................4
Metric conversions .....................................5
Types of wood ............................................5
Get ready to
build.......................................5
Balance your model..................................37
Preflight....................................................38
AMA safety code ......................................38
Flying your model ........................................39
Two-view drawing ..........................Back Cover
Die-cut
patterns..............................................6
Build the tail surfaces....................................7
Build the stabilizer and fin ..........................7
Build the elevators and rudder....................7
Join the elevators .......................................7
Finishing the tail surfaces...........................8
Build the wing ................................................8
Build the wing center section......................8
Sheet the top of the center section...........10
Sheet the bottom of the center section..... 12
Trailing edge installation...........................13
Build the outer wing panels ......................14
Sheet the bottom LE and TE ....................15
Sheet the top LE and TE ..........................16
Join the wing panels.................................17
Install the aileron linkage..........................17
Build The Fuselage ......................................20
Assemble the fuse sides ..........................20
Install pushrod tubes ................................21
Build the tail gear......................................21
Install the firewall......................................22
Install the engine and tank .......................23
Complete the fuse top ..............................25
Mount the wing to the fuselage ................27
Attach the stabilizer blocks.......................27
Install the stab and fin ..............................29
Build the wing belly fairing........................30
Install the cowl..........................................31
Finishing.......................................................32
Final sanding............................................32
Fuelproofing .............................................32
Balance the airplane laterally ...................32
Cover the structure with MonoKote film....33
Recommended covering sequence..........33
Painting the cowling..................................33
Your F4U Corsair is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated,
working model that functions very much like an
actual airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, the Corsair, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.
To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,
knowledgeable help with assembly and during your
first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model
before you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them,
instructor training programs and insured newcomer training
are available.
Contact AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
Final Hookups And Checks.........................34
Install the control surfaces........................34
Install the landing gear and canopy..........35
Radio installation ......................................35
1 You must assemble the plane according to the
instructions Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos In those
instances you should assume the written instructions
are correct.
2 You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
3 You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the air
4. You must test the operation of the model before the first
and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
operating, and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound
The Great Planes F4U Corsair .40 has been designed
to be built flat on the board. It is a super-flying model with
no bad traits Anyone who has had a little taildragger time
will not experience any difficulty with ground handling or
flying With a hot 40 or .46, the Great Planes Corsair will
do all the tricks in the book, and at a very exciting pace
Install a non-Schnuerled engine and enjoy a more relaxed
flying experience - but one that still allows most common
flight maneuvers
The Corsair .40 is equally at home on a paved runway
or operating from a grass strip The construction is tough
and there are no retracts to worry about, so rough fields
can be handled with confidence The thick, high-lift airfoil
with built-in washout allows the model to slow down for
smooth landings without the need for flaps
To fully enclose the engine within the Corsair's cowl, we
suggest using a 2-stroke engine with a Pitts-style muffler
There is plenty of room to install up to a 70 4-stroke if you
choose However, the top of the cylinder head and exhaust
pipe/muffler will protrude through the cowling
We hope you enjoy your Great Planes F4U Corsair .40
as much as we do It's a blast to fly!
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build. If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
model, please give us a call at (217) 398-8970 and we'll be
glad to help.
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes F4U
Corsair 40 to build as your next project' This kit has been
engineered using state-of-the-art Computer Aided Design
technology to provide the best parts fit and interlocking
construction available The result is a kit that builds easily
and flies great.
D Four-channel radio with four servos
D Propeller (Top Flite® Power Point")
D 10 oz Fuel tank (GPMQ4104)
D Medium fuel tubing (12") (GPMQ4131)
D 2-3/4" Main wheels (2) (GPMQ4224)
D 1" Tail wheel (1) (GPMQ4241)
D 5/32" Wheel collars (4) (GPMQ4306)
D 3/32" Wheel collars (2) (GPMQ4302)
D Aluminum spinner nut (GPMQ4630 - 1/4")
(GPMQ4631 -5/16")
D Covering film (2) rolls (Top Flite® MonoKote*)
3
D 2-1/2" Pilot figure (Williams Bros #176)*
D 1/4" Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1000)
D Easy Fueler" fuel filling valve (GPMQ4160)*
D Switch and Charge Jack (GPMM1000)*
D Paint for cowl (Top Flite®LustreKote" paint)
D Engine 40 - 46 2-stroke
48- 70 4-stroke
*These items are suggested optional items to dress up your
Corsair 40
We recommended Great Planes Pro" CA and Epoxy
D 2 oz Pro CA (thin GPMR6003)
D 2 oz Pro CA+ (medium GPMR6009)
D 1 oz Pro CA-(thick GPMR6014)
D 6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
D 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
D 4oz Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
D Hand or electric drill
D Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
D Hotsock(TOPR2175)
D Heat gun (TOPR2000)
D Hobby saw (X-Acto" razor saw)
D Hobby knife, #11 Blades
D Razor plane (Master Airscrew*)
D Pliers
D Screw drivers (Phillips and flat tip)
D Round file (or similar)
D T-pins (HCAQ5150)
D String
D Straightedge with scale
D Masking tape (required for construction)
D Sandpaper (coarse medium, fine grit)*
D Easy-Touch Bar Sander (or similar)
D Waxed paper
D Lightweight balsa filler such as Hobbico* HobbyLite"
(Hobbico #HCAR3400)
D 1/4-20 Tap and tap wrench
D IsopropyI rubbing alcohol (70%)
D Auto body filler (Bondo* or similar)
On our workbench, we have three 11" Great Planes
Easy-Touch Bar Sanders equipped with #80, #150 and
#220-gnt sandpaper This setup is all that is required for
almost any sanding task Custom sanding blocks can be
made from balsa for sanding hard to reach spots We also
keep some #320-gnt wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish
sanding before covering
Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most
hobby shops They are available in two sizes - 11"
(GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding and 22"
(GPMR6172) for long surfaces such as wing leading edges
We recommend using the 2" wide self-adhesive sandpaper
sold in 12" rolls by Great Planes Standard sandpaper can
be attached by gluing it to the sander with brush-on rubber
cement Apply the rubber cement to both the bottom of the
sander and the back of the sandpaper When both surfaces
are dry to the touch, press the sandpaper firmly onto the
sander Spray adhesive can be used for this purpose but it's
much harder to remove the sandpaper when you need to
replace it Use a knife blade for cutting sandpaper, not your
good scissors'
Easy-Touch Sandpaper 12" Roll
GPMR6180- 80-gnt
GPMR6183-150-grit
GPMR6185-220-grit
Common Abbreviations Used In
This Manual And On The Plans
Drill Bits D 1/16" D 1/8" D 3/16" (Long Bit)
D 5/64" D 9/64" LI 13/64"
D 3/32" D 5/32" D 1/4"
D
7/64"
LI
3/16"
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
Ply = Plywood
Stab = Stabilizer
" = Inches
mm = Milimeters
4
1/64" =
1/32" =
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" =
1/8" = 3.2
5/32" = 4.0
.4
.8
2.4
Inch Scale
0
10
20
30
Metric Scale
mm
mm
mm
mm
mm
40
Inches x 25.4 = mm (conversion factor)
3/16" = 4.8 mm
1/4" = 6.4
3/8" = 9.5
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19.0mm
50
60
70
mm
mm
80
90
1"
= 25.4 mm
2"
= 50.8
3"
= 76.2
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
18" = 457.2mm
100
110
120
mm
mm
130
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4mm
140 150
160
170 180
Balsa
Basswood
Get Ready To Build
D 1 Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plans inside out to
make them lie flat
D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out
the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and
the parts list included with this kit Most part numbers start
with CRS4 This identifies the kit The numbers following
CRS4 identify the part Using a felt-tip or ballpoint pen,
lightly write the part name or size on each piece to avoid
confusion later Use the die-cut patterns shown on page 6
to identify the die-cut parts and mark them before removing
them from the sheet Save all scraps If any of the die-cut
parts are difficult to remove, do not force them' Instead, cut
around the parts with a hobby knife After removing the diecut parts, use your Easy-Touch Bar Sander or sanding
block to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
Plywood
D 3 As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer)
and hardware.
5
6
Work over waxed paper covered plans, on a flat work
surface. Refer to the plans to identify the parts and
their locations.
D 1. Locate the shaped 1/4" balsa forward (S01) and aft
stab (S02) parts. Check their fit and sand the mating edges
as needed. Mark a centerline on both parts. Align the
centerlines on the stab parts with the centerline on the
plans. Glue the two parts together with a thin bead of
medium CA. Wipe off any excess from the surface before
it cures.
D 2. Locate the shaped 1/4" balsa fin front (S05) and fin
rear (S06) parts. Check their fit and sand the mating edges
as needed. Glue the two parts together with a thin bead of
medium CA. Wipe off any excess from the surface before
it cures.
D 5. Locate the shaped 1/4" balsa balance tabs (S09),
rudder front (S07) and rudder rear (S08) parts. Check
their fit and sand the mating edges as needed. Glue the
three parts together with a thin bead of thin CA. Wipe off
any excess from the surface before it cures.
D 6. Sand the joints of the elevators and rudder smooth
with sharp 220-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.
D 7. Tape the two shaped 1/4" balsa elevators in position
on the TE of the stab. Center the bent elevator joiner wire
(WBNT101) over the elevators as shown, then mark the
location of the "arms."
D 3. Sand the joints of both assemblies smooth with sharp
220-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.
D 4. Locate the shaped 1/4" balsa elevators (S03) and
balance tabs (S04). Check their fit and sand the mating
edges as needed. Glue the balance tabs to the elevators
with a thin bead of medium CA. Wipe off any excess from
the surface before it cures.
D 8. Carefully draw a centerline around the edges of both
elevators. Drill a 1/8" diameter pilot hole into the LE of each
elevator (on the centerline) at the marked location. Redrill
the holes with a 9/64" bit. The holes must be at least
1-1/8" deep.
D 9. Cut a 1/8" deep groove in the elevator LE between the
inside (root) edge and the hole you drilled (see the "Expert
Tip" on page 8). Insert the joiner wire. Adjust the depth of
the groove until the joiner wire is flush with the LE.
7
D 10. Test fit the joiner wire into both elevators. Make sure
that both elevators are flat on the work surface and that the
tips of the elevators align with the tips of the stab.
D 11. Draw a line 1" from the TE on both sides of the
elevators. Carefully sand a taper from this line to the TE.
Remove equal amounts of balsa from each side of the
elevator until the TE is 1/8" thick.
Lt 1. Locate the 1/8" die-cut ply (W02A) and the two 1/16"
die-cut birch ply (W02B) wing center spars. Use 30minute epoxy to glue the 1/16" die-cut birch ply center spar
to the front and back of the 1/8" die-cut ply center spar.
Make sure that all three center spars are perfectly
aligned. Wipe off any excess epoxy with alcohol and a
paper towel.
D 2. Lay out the 3/32" die-cut wing ribs R-5 (W04) and the
1/8" die-cut wing ribs R-3 (W08) exactly as shown in the
photo. Position the 1/16" die-cut birch ply doublers R-3B
and R-5B (W01) on each rib as shown. By so doing we will
be making a right and a left pair. Use 30-minute epoxy to
glue the doublers to the ribs. Make sure that the doublers
are perfectly aligned with the ribs.
D 12. Taper the TE of the rudder using the same procedure
as used for the elevators.
D 13. Sand the LE of the elevators and rudder to a "V"
shape as shown on the plans. Sand a radius on the LE and
tip ends of the stab and fin. Leave the TE of the stab and fin
squared off.
D 3. Locate the 1/8" die-cut ribs R-1 (W07) and the 1/8"
die-cut ply doublers R-1B (F01). Use 30-minute epoxy to
glue ribs R-1 together. Then, use epoxy to glue ribs R-1
between the rib doublers R-1B. Make sure that all four
pieces are perfectly aligned. Wipe off any excess epoxy
with alcohol and a paper towel.
8
D 4. Pin the wing center spar over the plans perpendicular
to the building board. Fit the R-1 rib assembly in the
center spar. Place the center jig (W10) under the TE of
the rib assembly. Glue the rib assembly perpendicular to
the center spar using thin CA.
D 7. Cut a 4-3/8" long piece of LE and sub TE. Fit the LE,
then the sub TE to the ribs. The LE must be centered
vertically on each rib. The sub TE should be flush with the
top and bottom of the ribs. Glue ribs R-1 and R-2 to the LE
and sub TE. Do not glue the sub TE to the center jig.
D 8. Sand the ends of the LE and sub TE flush with ribs R-2.
D 5. Fit the 1/8" die-cut rib R-2 (W07) on the center spar.
Locate the 1/8" die-cut ply dihedral gauge (F01). One
edge of the gauge is angled to set the dihedral of the wing,
the other edge is 90° to the bottom of the gauge. Use the
90° edge to align the ribs R-2 perpendicular to the center
spar. Pin the TE of the ribs on the center Jig. Glue ribs R-2
perpendicular to the center spar using thin CA.
D 6. The shaped and notched wing leading edges (W12)
and sub-trailing edges (W12) are fastened together by
thin strips of balsa. Separate them by cutting with a hobby
knife, as shown in the sketch above.
D 9. Use a 3/32" drill bit to drill the wing mounting dowel
hole through the LE. The best way to line up the drill with
the slot in ribs R-1 is to sight down the LE from the side.
Use a 1/4" drill to enlarge the hole while making
adjustments to the alignment.
D 10. Chamfer both ends of the 1/4" x 3-1/2" hardwood
wing dowel (DOWLS030). Test fit the dowel (without glue)
into the LE and ribs R-1. The fit should be snug, so don't
enlarge the slot any more than necessary. When satisfied
with the fit, remove the wing dowel and set it aside for
later use.
9
D 11. Slide ribs R-5 onto the center spar so that the ply
doubler R-5B is toward rib R-2. Align rib R-5 over the plan.
Make sure that the TE of ribs R-2 are seated on the center
jig and the jig tabs on ribs R-5 are against the building
board. Use the rib gauge (5G) (F02) to check the angle of
R-5. Then, glue the ribs perpendicular to the center spar
with medium CA.
D 12. Fit ribs R-3 and the 3/32" die-cut ribs R-4 (W08) into
the center spar. The ply doubler R-3B on rib R-3 is toward
rib R-4. Do not glue the ribs to the center spar. Cut two 6"
long pieces, one from each LE and sub TE. Trim one end of
the LE so that it fits flush against the LE at rib R-2 and is
centered vertically on the front of rib R-5. Glue the LE in
place with medium CA. Trim one end of the sub TE so that
it fits flush against the sub TE at rib R-2 and is flush with
the top and bottom of rib R-5. Glue the sub TE to rib R-5
and the TE at rib R-2 with medium CA. Repeat this process
for the other side.
D 1. Lightly sand the top of the ribs flush with the center
spar. Cut a 4-1/2" long piece from a 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa
LE sheet (W13) to fit between ribs R-2. Sand a bevel on
the front edge of the sheet. Test fit the LE sheet in position.
Trim the back edge flush with the back of the center spar.
When satisfied with the fit, press the forward edge of the
sheet tightly against the LE and the ribs, then wick thin CA
along the forward seam. Wipe off any excess CA before it
cures. Apply a bead of thick CA on the top of ribs R-1 and
R-2. Roll the sheet into contact with the ribs and the center
spar. Wick thin CA between the sheet and the center spar.
D 13. Locate the 1/8" die-cut ply dihedral gauge (F01). One
edge of the gauge is angled to set the dihedral of the wing.
The other edge is 90° to the bottom of the gauge. Use the
90° edge of the dihedral gauge to align ribs R-3 and R-4
perpendicular to the center spar. Check that the LE is
centered vertically on the ribs and the sub TE is flush with the
top and bottom of the ribs. Glue the ribs to the LE and sub TE
with thin CA and to the center spar with medium CA.
D 2. Refer to the photo above, then use a razor saw or
hobby knife to finish cutting the partially die-cut aileron
servo opening in ribs R-1.
D 3. Cut two 3/4" long pieces from the 1/4" x 1/2" x 6" balsa
hatch mounting block (W16). Glue the 1/4" edge of the
two pieces flush with the top of the center spar and ribs R2 with thin CA. Use medium CA to glue the remaining
1/4" x 1/2" mounting block in the slots die-cut in ribs. Trim
the mounting block flush with ribs R-2.
10
D 4. Lightly sand the sub TE to remove any bumps. Cut two
4-1/2" long pieces from a new 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa LE
sheet to fit between ribs R-2. Refer to the cross-section on
the plans. Edge glue the two pieces together to make a
center skin. Trim the center skin so that it overlaps the
1/4" x 1/2" x 4-1/4" balsa hatch block by 1/4". Glue the
sheet to the ribs and sub TE with medium CA.
D 6. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the rails in position. Glue
(and clamp for a secure bond) the 7/16" x 5/8" x 3/4"
grooved hardwood landing gear blocks (HRDWD022) to
the inside of the landing gear rails and also to the ply
doubler on R-3 with 30-minute epoxy. It is essential that the
landing gear blocks be accurately aligned with the landing
gear rail.
D 7. After the epoxy has fully cured, drill a 5/32" hole
through the landing gear rail working from the top of the
landing gear block, as shown. By drilling in this manner, the
block acts as a guide for drill bit.
D 8. Carve a slight radius in the groove of the landing gear
rails at the location of the hole. This radius will permit the
landing gear wire to fully seat in the groove.
D 5. Remove the center section from the building board
and test fit the 7/16" x 5/8" x 4" grooved basswood landing
gear rails (HRDWD013) into the notches in ribs R-3, R-4
and R-5. If necessary, carefully sand the notches to allow a
snug fit. The landing gear rails should protrude above the
ribs by 3/32".
D 9. Pin the wing center section back on the building board.
Cut four 6-1/2" long pieces from a new 3/32" x 4" x 30"
balsa LE sheet. Test fit one LE sheet between ribs R-2 and
R-5. Trim the aft edge of the sheet to the center of the
center spar. When satisfied with the fit, press the forward
edge of the sheet tightly against the LE and the ribs, then
wick thin CA along the forward seam. Wipe off any excess
CA before it cures. Apply a bead of thick CA on the top of
ribs R-3, R-4 and R-5 and roll the sheet into contact with
the ribs and the center spar. Wick thin CA between the
sheet and the center spar.
11
D 10. Fit a 3/32" x 1/4" balsa cap strip between the LE and
TE sheeting so that it's flush with rib R-2. Glue the cap strip
to rib R-2 and the sheeting with thin CA.
D 11. Cut eight 2-3/8" long pieces of sheeting from the
remaining piece of 3/32" x 4" x 21" balsa LE sheet. Make
four center skins by edge gluing four pairs of the 2-3/8"
sheets together.
D 14. Use medium CA to glue the 3/32" x 1/4" balsa cap
strips (W19) to the top of ribs R-4. Glue 3/32" x 1/2" balsa
cap strips (W20) to the top of ribs R-5. The edge of the
cap strips on R-5 are flush with the outside edge of the ribs.
D 15. Remove the center section from the building board
and sand the LE, TE and the sheeting flush with both the
R-5 ribs.
D 1. Remove the jig tabs from rib R-5. Sand the bottom of
the ribs flush with the center spar and the TE.
D 2. Cut a 4-1/2" long piece of sheeting from each of the
three 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa sheets that are left. Lightly sand
off the edges of the 4-1/2" long pieces to remove any
balsa "fuzz." Make a center skin by edge gluing the
pieces together.
D 12. Trim a center skin to fit behind the center spar and on
top of the sub TE from rib R-2 to R-3. Important: Be sure
to get a good glue joint along rib R-2. Glue it in place with
medium CA. Repeat the process for the other side.
D 13. Cut four 4" long piece from each of the four
3/32" x 7/8" x 24" piece of TE sheet (W14). Use medium
CA to glue the 4" TE between ribs R-3 and R-5.
D 3. Trim the center skin to fit between the LE and sub TE
between the R-2 ribs. Be sure the skin is flush with the side
of R-2. Glue in place with medium CA.
LI 4. Hold a 3/32" x 4" x 6-1/2" balsa sheet (cut in step 9,
page 11) tightly against the LE. Press down on the sheet
with your fingers in the vicinity of the landing gear rail to
12
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