Great Planes GPMA0165 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase.This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THR OUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING
CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING
THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

RYN1P03 for GPMA1055 V1.0 Entire Contents © Copyright 2002

1610 Interstate Drive Champaign, IL 61822

[phone], Ext. 2

[e-mail]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 49 in [1244mm]
Wing Area: 401 sq in [25.7 dm

2

]

Weight: 3 lbs., 8 oz. [1587g]
Length: 36-1/4 in [920.7mm]

INTRODUCTION ..........................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ............................................................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ..................................................3

Radio Selection ........................................................................3

Motor Selection ........................................................................3

Battery Selection ......................................................................3

Chargers ..................................................................................4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED................................................4

Hardware & Accessories..........................................................4

Adhesives & Building Supplies ................................................4

Optional Supplies & Tools ........................................................5

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ................................................5

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS ......................................................6

TYPES OF WOOD........................................................................6

METRIC CONVERSIONS ............................................................6

METRIC/INCH RULER ................................................................6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS ..................................................................7

BUILD THE T AIL SURFACES......................................................8

Build the Stabilizer....................................................................8

Build the Elevator ....................................................................8

Build the Fin & Rudder ..........................................................10

Finish the Tail Surfaces ..........................................................11

BUILD THE WING ......................................................................12

Build the Wing Panels ............................................................12

Join the Wing Panels ..............................................................17

Assemble the Ailerons............................................................19

BUILD THE FUSELA GE ............................................................20

Assemble the Fuselage Bottom ............................................20

Sheet the Lower Half of the Fuselage....................................23

Install the Outer Pushrod Tubes ............................................24

Finish the Top of the Fuselage ..............................................24

Build the Battery Hatch Cover................................................25

Build the Motor Mount............................................................27

Mount the Wing on the Fuselage ..........................................28

Mount the Stabilizer & Fin......................................................29

RADIO INSTALLATION ............................................................32

Install the Servos....................................................................32

Install the Motor & Speed Control..........................................33

Install the Aileron Pushrods....................................................34

FINISH THE FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ......................................35

Mount the Landing Gear ........................................................35

Assemble the Wheel Pants ....................................................35

Assemble the Cowl ................................................................37

Fit the Windscreen & Headrest ..............................................38

FINISHING..................................................................................39

Final Sanding..........................................................................39

Balance the Airplane Laterally................................................39

Cover the Model with MonoKote

®

Film ..................................39

Suggested Covering Sequence..............................................40

Painting Your Model................................................................40

FINAL HOOKUPS & CHECKS..................................................40

Install the Hinges....................................................................40

Install the Wheels ..................................................................42

Finish the Model ....................................................................42

Reinstall the Radio System....................................................42

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY............................................43

Check the Control Directions..................................................43

Set the Control Throws ..........................................................43

Balance the Model (C.G.) ......................................................44

PREFLIGHT ..............................................................................44

Identify Your Model ................................................................44

Charge the Batteries ..............................................................44

PROPER CARE OF YOUR MOTOR ..........................................44

PERFORMANCE TIPS ..............................................................45

BALANCE THE PROPELLER ..................................................45

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY ..................................................45

Ground Check ........................................................................45

Range Check ..........................................................................45

MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............................................45

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt) ................................................46

CHECK LIST..............................................................................46

FLYING ......................................................................................46

Takeoff ....................................................................................47

Flight ......................................................................................47

Landing ..................................................................................47

TWO VIEW DRAWING ..........................................BACK COVER

FUSELAGE/WING PLAN............CENTER PULL-OUT SECTION

With its white and red trim scheme and black and white
checkerboard on the underside of the wing and stabilizer,
the Ryan STA is one of the most recognizable civilian
aircraft around. You can now have this great looking and
flying aircraft as an electric without the mess and fuss of a
glow engine.Electrics have been growing in popularity over
the last few y ears and with this comes the av ailability of high
quality motors, electronic speed controls and batteries.
Flight times have almost doubled with the newest NiMH
batteries available. So if you want to impress your glow
flying buddies with an electric, the Great Planes Ryan STA
EP is just what you need.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections for
the Ryan STA EP, visit the web site listed below and select
the Great Planes Ryan STA EP. If there is new technical
information or changes to this kit, a “tech notice” box will
appear in the upper left corner of the page.

http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html

1. Your Ryan STA EP should not be considered a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Ryan STA EP, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those
instances the written instructions should be considered as
correct.

PRO TECT Y OUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized motor and components
(electronic speed control, motor battery , etc.) throughout the
building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.

6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
should fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions
to end up with a well-built model that is straight and

true.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit
with the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also
inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable
quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or
if you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at (217)

398-8970, or e-mail us at

[e-mail].

If you are contacting us for replacement parts, please
be sure to provide the full kit name (Ryan STA EP) and
the part numbers as listed in the Parts List.

You can also check our web site at

www.greatplanes.com

for the latest Ryan STA EP updates.

If you have not flown this type of model before, we
recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced
pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a
member of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend
you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA
membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs.
There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance
to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events.

Additionally, training programs and instructors are available
at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way.

Contact

the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

Because weight is an important factor in the Ryan STA EP,
the ideal radio system is one that has a miniature receiver,
four mini servos such as Futaba’s®S3101 servos
(FUTM0033) and an electronic speed control with BEC
(Battery Eliminator Circuitry). The electronic speed control
with BEC uses the motor battery, not a separate receiver
battery, to power the receiver and servos.When the motor
battery voltage reaches a preset voltage, the BEC on the
speed control stops the motor while still supplying power to
the receiver and servos.The Great Planes Electr iFly™C-30
(GPMM2030) works great in the Ryan STA EP.

In testing the Ryan STA EP, many different motors were
evaluated.Some of them provided adequate thrust to fly the
Ryan STA EP satisfactorily. Some, however, gave such
marginal performance that the climb-out was very shallow
and flight times were short.

The Great Planes S-60014R reverse rotation motor with a

2.5:1 gear drive unit (GPMG0850) and a 15 tooth pinion
gear (GPMG0852) to produce a gear ratio of 3.0:1 enables
the motor to turn a larger, more efficient propeller at a
slower speed.This usually results in more thrust for a better
climb rate and longer flight times up to 6 minutes.

The Ryan STA EP was designed to fly on a 7-cell 8.4 volt
1700 – 3000 mAh flat battery pack. Even though the Ryan
STA EP will fly well on an inexpensive motor battery pack,
we recommend a battery pack that uses Sanyo®or
Panasonic®cells.These cells have a low internal resistance
which translates into more power and less heat.

If you are new to electric airplanes (or even cars and boats)
here is a short explanation of rechargeable NiCd and NiMH

Battery Selection

Motor Selection

Radio Selection

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality kit
and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your
finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your

completed
model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.

3

batteries. A single cell rechargeable battery supplies 1.2
volts with no load (not powering anything). A 7-cell battery
pack can supply 8.4 volts (1.2 v olts x 7 cells = 8.4 volts).The
cell rating in mAh (milli-amp-hours) is the amount of current
the battery can supply .If a battery is rated at 1700 mAh, the
battery can supply 1.7 amps for 1 hour (or 1 amp for 1.7
hours). This sounds great, flying for over 1-1/2 hours on a
single battery charge! The bad news is that to produce the
power needed to fly an airplane the size of the Ryan STA
EP, the motor draws from 15-25 amps. The current
consumption reduces the run time to 4-6 minutes.The good
news is that propellers become more efficient as the speed
of the plane increases. This lowers the current draw,
allowing the plane to fly longer on a single charge,
sometimes up to 20% longer. Also, if an electronic speed
control is used, the motor can be throttled back, increasing
the flight time. Most airplanes only need full throttle dur ing
takeoff.

We recommend the use of high quality battery packs. The
higher quality batteries usually have less internal resistance
than the average battery. The higher quality battery will
provide more power to the motor than the average battery.
In rechargeable batteries, internal resistance transforms
power into heat.With less internal resistance, there is more
power av ailable to the motor and less heat is generated.We
hope this helps explain NiCd and NiMH batteries and why a
high quality battery should be used in the Ryan STA EP.

A fully charged battery pack will provide an initial “surge” of
power during the first 15 to 30 seconds of the motor run.
Then the power output stays fairly steady for the next
several minutes before dropping off quickly. If you do not
charge your battery completely, it will not deliver that surge
necessary for a good takeoff and climb out.There are three
easy ways to “peak-charge” your battery pack.

1. The easiest way is with a “peak-detecting” battery
charger.This type of charger will automatically charge your
battery until it is fully charged.The NiMH batteries require a
peak-detecting charger that meets the specific charging
needs of NiMH batteries.

2.The second method of charging your motor batteries is to
monitor the voltage of your battery pack with a voltmeter.

This method is only recommended for NiCd batteries.

Your charger may have sockets into which you may plug a
voltmeter. If not, you may insert the probes from the
voltmeter into the rear of the battery plug, making contact
with the metal contacts.As your battery charges, the v oltage
will gradually increase. When the battery is fully charged,
the voltage will start to drop.At this point your battery is fully
charged.

3. The third (and least reliable) method of peak-charging
your battery pack is by checking its temperature. This
method is only recommended for NiCd batteries. As the

battery charges it will remain cool until it is fully charged.
When it reaches the fully charged state, it will rapidly build
up heat.You can feel this heat with your hand. As soon as
the pack starts to noticeably warm up, disconnect it from the
charger. Do not continue charging if the battery pack is
hot! Overcharging will damage your battery pack and can
result in an explosion.

In addition to the items listed in the

“Decisions Y ou Must

Make”

section, following is the list of hardware and
accessories required to finish the Ryan STA EP. Order
numbers are provided in parentheses and are recognized
by most distributors and hobby shops and are listed for your
convenience.

❏ 4-channel radio with 4 mini servos
❏ (2) 2" Ultralite Wheel (GPMQ4201)
❏ (1) 1" Tail Wheel (GPMQ4241)
❏ (1) Velcro

®

Hook and Loop material (GPMQ4480)

❏ (1) 1-3/4" White Spinner (GPMQ4505)
❏ (1) 1/6 Scale (2") Pilot
❏ (1) C-30 ElectriFly Electronic Speed Control

(GPMM2030, included in GPMG0075)

❏ (1) Motor battery pack charger 910 Hobbico

®

Variable

Rate Charger (HCAP0175) or the DuraTrax

®

Intellipeak™AC/DC Pulse Charger (DTXP4100)

❏ (1)1700 mAh 8.4 volt NiCd battery pack (DTXC2071)

or 3000 mAh 8.4 volt NiMH battery pack (DTXC2096)

Recommended Drive Unit

❏ (1) GD-600 Gear Drive (GPMG0850)
❏ (1) 15 Tooth Pinion Gear (GPMG0852)
❏ (1) Motor (14-turn reverse, GPMG0715)
❏ (1) 9x8 Propeller (APCQ0908)

or

❏ (1) S-600 GD System (GPMG0770), or S-600 GD

System with ESC (GPMG0775)

❏ (1) White MonoKote Film (TOPQ0204)
❏ (1) Red MonoKote Film (TOPQ0201)
❏ (1) Black MonoKote Film (TOPQ0208)
❏ (1) White LustreK ote

®

Paint (TOPR7204)

❏ (1) Red LustreKote Paint (TOPR7201)
❏ (1) Black LustreKote Paint (TOPR7208)

In addition to common household tools (screwdrivers, drill,
etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important items
required to build the Ryan STA EP.

We recommend Great

Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 1/2 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
❏ 1/2 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)

Adhesives & Building Supplies

Hardware & Accessories

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Chargers

4

❏ 6-Minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 blades (HCAR0211)
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0212)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
❏ Electric drill and 1/16" [1.6mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 3/16"

[4.8mm], 13/64" [5.1mm], 1/4 [6.4mm] drill bit

❏ Great Planes 1/4-20 tap and drill set (GPMR8105)
❏ Small phillips and flat blade screwdrivers (HCAR1040)
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector

™

(GPMR6167) or wax

paper

❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assor tment

(see Expert

Tip on bar sanders)

❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Ryan STA EP.

❏ Great Planes CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

❏ Top Flite Hot Sock

™

iron cover (TOPR2175)

❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ CA Applicator tips (GPMR6033)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6034)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Non-elastic monofilament or Kevlar fishing line (for

stab alignment)

❏ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480) (for fin alignment)
❏ Easy-Touch

™

bar sander (GPMR6170, or similar)

❏ Felt-tip marker (TOPQ2510)
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

®

Moto-Tool

®

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8020)
❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Curved-tip Canopy Scissors for trimming plastic parts

(HCAR0667)

❏ Great Planes AccuThrow

™

Deflection Gauge (for

measuring control throws, GPMR2405)

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a

length. For example #6 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity
for building a well finished model. Great Planes makes a
complete range of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and
replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper.
While building the Ryan STA EP, we used two 5-1/2" Bar
Sanders and two 11" Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit
and 150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and
Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12' roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper

(GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets) and
400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry sandpaper for
finish sanding.

Optional Supplies & Tools

5

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch, and a length. For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long with

forty threads per inch.

• When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it means
that you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a
specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute (or45-minute) epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.

• Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete name
stamped on them, so refer to the die drawings on page 7 for
identification. When it’s time to remove the parts from their
die sheets, if they are difficult to remove, do not force them
out. Instead, use a shar p #11 blade to carefully cut the par t
from the sheet, then lightly sand the edges to remove any
slivers or irregularities.Save some of the larger scraps of

wood.

• The easiest way to cut balsa sticks is with a single-edge
razor blade or razor saw. Position the stick over the plan,
mark its size, then cut the part on a piece of scrap wood. A
modeling miter box works well for cutting square corners
and 45° gussets.

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Stabilizer

Fin = Ver tical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

TYPES OF WOOD

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

6

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm

1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm

1/4" = 6.4 mm

3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm

1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm

12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm

Metric Conversions

7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

❏ 1.Unroll the plan sheets.Roll them inside out so they will

lie flat.

❏ 2. Position the fuse plan so the stab plan is over your flat

building board. Cover the plan with Great Planes Plan
Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere.

❏ 3. From one of the 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" [4.8mm x 9.5mm x

609.6mm] balsa sticks, cut the stabilizer trailing edge and
trailing edge doubler to match the stabilizer plan. Pin the

stab TE ov er the plan and glue the doub ler to the front of the
trailing edge.

❏ 4.Pin the die-cut 3/16" [4.8mm] balsa stabilizer leading

edge (S1) in position. Trim and fit the 3/16" x 3" x 2-1/2"

[4.8mm x 76.2mm x 63.5mm] balsa stabilizer center
between the die-cut LE and the trailing edge doubler. Glue
the stab center to the LE and to the front of the stab TE
doubler.

❏ 5. Pin the two die-cut 3/16" [4.8mm] balsa stab frames

(S2) in position.Glue the frames to the leading edge S1 and

the stab TE.

❏ 6. From the 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" [4.8mm x 4.8mm x

762mm] balsa stick, cut and glue the stab ribs to the stab
frame.

❏ 7. Remove the stab from your building board. Inspect all

the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don’t look
strong. Fill any gaps with balsa sanding dust and a drop or
two of thin CA.

❏ ❏ 1.From a 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" [4.8mm x 9.5mm x

609.6mm]
balsa stick, cut the elevator leading edge to length and pin
it over the ele v ator plan.Pin and glue the die-cut 3/16" balsa

elevator frames E-3 through E-5 to the LE.

Build the Elevator

Build the Stabilizer

BUILD THE T AIL SURF A CES

8

❏ ❏ 2.From the 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" [4.8mm x 9.5mm x

609.6mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue the remainder of the frame and the

LE doubler.

❏ ❏ 3.From the 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" [4.8mm x 4.8mm x

762mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue the elevator ribsto the elevator

frame.

❏ 4. Repeat step 1 through step 3 to build the second

elevator half.

❏ 5. Remove the elevators from your building board.

Inspect
all the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don’t look
strong. Sand the stabilizer and elevators to shape using the
fuse plan as a guide. Sand both sides of the stabilizer and
elevator flat and even. Be careful that you don’t sand any
area too thin. Do not bevel the LE of the elevator until after
the hinges have been installed.

❏ 6. Pin both elevator halves in position over the plan.Lay

the 3/32" elevator joiner wire on top of the elevators in the
position shown on the plan. Use a pencil to lightly mark the
outline of the joiner wire on the elevators.

❏ 7. Using a straightedge, extend the sidelines of the

elevator joiner outline forward to the leading edge.Also, use
a Great Planes Precision Hinge Marking Tool™(GPMR4005)
to draw a centerline on the leading edge of both elevator

halves.Using these lines, you can determine exactly where
to drill the holes for the elevator joiner wire.

❏ 8. Drill a 3/32" hole through the leading edge of both

elevators. As you drill each hole, keep the drill aligned with
the top and bottom surface of the elevator and reference
lines you made in the previous steps.

❏ 9. Refer to the

Expert Tip

that follows to cut a 3/32"
groove in the leading edge of both elevators to recess the
joiner wire.

B.Use the sharpened tube to

carefully

gouge the leading
edge of the elevators.You’ll have to make several passes
to make the recess deep enough for the joiner wire.

A. Use a #11 knife blade to sharpen the inside of a piece
of 3/32" brass tube.Roll the tube as you sharpen the end.

HOW TO CUT A GROOVE FOR A JOINER WIRE

9

❏ 10.Temporarily join the elevators with the joiner wire.The

joiner wire will be easier to install if you chamfer (bevel) the
ends a little. If necessary, “tweak” the joiner wire so the
elevators are parallel and la y flat on y our building tab le when
the joiner wire is installed. If you found it necessary to
“tweak” the joiner wire, use a felt-tip pen to mark it so you
can install the joiner wire in the same orientation when you
permanently join the elevators.

❏ 1. Cover the fin/rudder portion of the plan with waxed

paper or Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Pin the die-cut 3/16" [4.8mm] balsa fin frame V-6 in

position on the fuse plan. From one of the 3/16" x 3/8" x 24"
[4.8mm x 9.5mm x 609.6mm] balsa sticks, cut and glue a LE
and TE to V-6. Cut and glue a fin base, along the bottom of
the fin, between the LE and TE.Also, cut and shape a LE fin
fillet at the bottom of the LE. Note: Cut the TE so that it
extends to the top of the stabilizer.

❏ 3.From the 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" [4.8mm x 4.8mm x

762mm]
balsa stick, cut and glue the fin ribs to the frame. Note that
one of the ribs is glued to the top edge of the fin base.

❏ 4.Remove the fin from your building board.Inspect all the

glue joints and add CA to any joints that don’t look strong.
Fill any gaps with balsa sanding dust and a drop or two of
thin CA.

❏ 5. Build the rudder frame from the die-cut 3/16" [4.8mm]

balsa R-7, R-8, R9 and R-10 frame pieces and a 3/16" x
3/8" [4.8mm x 9.5mm] balsa stick.

❏ 6.From the 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" [4.8mm x 4.8mm x

762mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue the rudder ribs to the frame.

❏ 7. Remove the rudder from your building board. Inspect

all the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don’t look
strong.Sand the rudder and fin to shape using the fuse plan
as a guide. Sand both sides of the r udder and fin flat and
even. Be careful that you don’t sand any area too thin. Do
not sand the bevel on the LE of the rudder until after the
hinges have been installed.

❏ 8. Lay the fin and rudder over the plan and lightly mark

the hinge locations on the LE of the rudder and the TE of the
fin. Repeat the process to mark the hinge locations on the
LE of the elevators and TE of the stab.

Build the Fin & Rudder

10

❏ 9. We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots with

the introduction of the Great Planes Slot Machine™. This
simple electric tool cuts a perfect width slot for use with
CA hinges.

❏ 10.To cut the hinge slot, first locate the center line of the

LE and TE edges using the Great Planes Precision Hinge
Marking Tool (GPMR4005). Then place the blades of the
Slot Machine onto the wood where you want the slot.Lightly
press the teeth into the wood. When you are satisfied with
the location, press the button on the handle and the blades
will cut easily into the balsa wood.

❏ 11. Cut the 1/2" x 1" [12.7mm x 25.4mm] hinges for the

elevator and rudder from the supplied 2" x 9" [50.8mm x

228.6mm] hinge material, then snip off the corners as
shown on the fuselage plan. Temporarily join the elevators
to the stab and the rudder to the fin with the hinges,
adjusting any hinge slots if necessary so they all align. Do

not glue in the hinges until you are instructed to do so
after the airplane is covered.

❏ 1. Refer to the

Expert Tip

that follows and shape the
leading edge of the elevators and rudder to a “V” as shown
on the plan.

A. Place the leading edge of one of the elevators on your
work surface and use your pen to mark a “be v el to”line on
both sides, about 3/32" [2.4mm] high.

Note: You will probably have to adjust the height of the
elevator with card stock so your “bevel to” line is not
too high.

HOW TO BEVEL THE LEADING EDGES

Finish the Tail Surfaces

Cut the hinge slots in the elevators, stabilizer, fin and
rudder using a Hobby Knife with a #11 blade. Begin by
carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge location to
accurately establish the hinge slot. Make three or four
more cuts, going a little deeper each time. As you cut,
slide the knife from side to side until the slot has reached
the proper depth and width for the hinge.

AND #11 BLADE

WITH HOBBY KNIFE

CUT HINGE SLOT

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SLOT MACHINE

11

❏ 2. Use the same procedure to bevel the leading edge of

the rudder.

❏ 3. Attach the elevators to the stab and the rudder to the

fin. Use your bar sander to round the perimeter of the
elevator, stab, rudder and fin (do not round the bottom edge
of the fin where it will be glued to the stab and fuse and the
bottom half of the rudder where the rudder fairing will be
attached later.

Start by building the right wing panel right side up over the
right wing panel plan so your progress matches the photos.

❏ ❏ 1. Cover the wing panel plan with waxed paper or

Great Planes Plan Protector.

❏ ❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 3-ply landing gear doubler (3LG)

to the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing rib W3. Make sure
to make a left and right rib.

❏ ❏ 3. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa rib doublers

3A to a W3 rib and a die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing rib
W4. Note on the wing plan which side of the ribs the rib

doublers are glued to and that the rib doublers are aligned
with the top of the W3 and W4 ribs.

❏ ❏ 4. Match two of the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm

x 762mm] basswood main sparsso any warps will

counteract

each other.

❏ ❏ 5. Position one of the main spars over the plan,

aligning one end of the spar with the outboard edge of the
tip rib W5. Mark the spar at the tip side of rib W4.

Build the Wing Panels

BUILD THE WING

B.Using the “bevel to”lines and the centerline as a guide,
make the “V” on the leading edge of the elevators with a
razor plane or the Great Planes Multi-Sander

(GPMR6190)

with 150-grit sandpaper.

12

❏ ❏ 6. Cut a V-notch par t way through the spar, at the

mark, so that the spar can bend at W4.

❏ ❏ 7. From one of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm

x 762mm] balsa sheets, cut four 1/2" x 3/4" [12.7mm x
19mm] shims.Place the shims over the spar location on the
plan, starting between ribs W1 and W2 and alternating
every other rib bay. Pin the main spar, cut in step 6, over the
shims, aligned with the wing plan at the W5 tip rib.

❏ ❏ 8. Pin the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa sub trailing

edge, perpendicular to the building board. The tapered end

should be positioned at the wing tip.

❏ ❏ 9. Pin and glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa W2,

W3, W4 and W5 r ibs onto the main spar and the sub TE,

perpendicular to the building board. The TE of the ribs do
not touch the building board. Note the direction of the W3

ribs with the landing gear doublers and the W3 and W4 ribs
with the rib doublers. The main spar will need to be bent
upward to contact the W5 rib.

❏ ❏ 10. Position the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa W1 root

rib over the main spar.Place the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] 3-ply
dihedral gauge against the W1 root rib, between ribs W1

and W2. Glue the root rib to the main spar and the sub TE.
Note that the notch in the sub TE is cut at the proper angle.

❏ ❏ 11. Cut a V-notch in the basswood top main spar the

same as you did in the bottom main spar. Glue the top main
spar to the ribs, making sure that the W2 through W5 ribs
are perpendicular to the building board. Also make cer tain
that the main spar is fully seated in each rib.The top of the
main spar should be flush with the front of each rib.

❏ ❏ 12.Center the 3/32" x 1/2" x 30" [2.4mm x 12.7mm x

762mm] balsa sub LE on the front of the r ibs. Check that
the sub TE is against the building board.Then, glue the sub
LE to the front of the ribs.The excess 3/32" x 1/2" [2.4mm x

12.7mm] will be used for the wing tip braces.

13

❏ ❏ 13. From the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x

762mm] balsa sheet that the shims were cut from, cut and
glue vertical grain shear webs to the spars in the locations
shown on the plan.It is not necessary for the shear webs to
be glued to the ribs. Make sure they are glued securely to
the wing spars. Do not install shear webs in the rib bays
between ribs W1 and W3.(The shear web in the aileron bay
should be attached to the front of the main spars.)

❏ ❏ 14.Use a 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x

762mm]
balsa sheet to make the TE sheet. Cut the sheet so that it
is 23" [584mm] long and 2-1/4" [57.2mm] wide. Glue the TE
sheet in the indentations at the aft end of the wing ribs.The
sheet should butt against the aft end of ribs W1 through W3.
Save the 3/4" [19mm] piece you cut off.

❏ ❏ 15. Sand the balsa sub LE flush with the top of

the ribs.

❏ ❏ 16. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa rib doubler

W1A to the inside forward edge of rib W1.

❏ ❏ 17.Cut a 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x 762mm]

balsa sheet 23" [584.2mm] long. Fit the sheet in place,
against the notch in the ribs and on top of the main spar.
Glue the balsa sheet to the main spar and notches. When
the glue has cured, apply a bead of glue to the top of each
rib and along the sub LE. Pull the sheeting down, making
sure it contacts the surface of each rib and sub LE. Hold it
in place until the glue has cured.

❏ ❏ 18. Sheet the center-section with the remaining 7"

[177.8mm] long, 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa sheet cut in the last

step.

❏ ❏ 19.Remove the wing panel from your building board.

Trim and sand the LE sheeting flush with the sub LE. Sand
the LE and TE sheeting, main spars and sub LE flush with

14

rib W5.Trim the building tabs off of the bottom of the sub TE.
Trim the TE sheeting stop tabs, at the aft end of the W1, W2
and W3 ribs, to a point. Also sand the aft edge of the TE
sheeting to match the angle of the ribs.T rim the TE sheeting
flush with the sub TE at ribs W4 and W5.

❏ ❏ 20.Trim the main spars flush with rib W1 and sa v e the

excess main spar for use later. Trim and sand the LE
sheeting, TE sheeting, sub LE and sub TE flush with rib W1.

❏ ❏ 21.With the wing upside-down, pin the sub TE to your

building board. Cut a 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x
762mm] balsa sheet 23" [584.2mm] long and 2-1/4"
[57.2mm] wide. Fit and glue the sheet to the ribs, sub TE
and the top TE wing sheeting.

❏ ❏ 22.Sand the balsa sub LE flush with the top of the

ribs.

❏ 23. Cut the 1/4" x 3/4" x 7" [6.4mm x 19mm x 177.8mm]

grooved basswood landing gear rail in half.

❏ ❏ 24.Use epoxy to glue the landing gear rail in the

notches,

centered between the W3 ribs.

❏ ❏ 25. Use epoxy to glue the 3/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" [9.5mm x

19mm x 19mm] landing gear torque block to the back of
the landing gear rail and the W3 rib. Make sure the torque

block is glued tow ards the tip end.A couple of T-pins can be
inserted from the top of the wing, through the LE sheeting,
to press the torque block against the landing gear rail.

❏ ❏ 26. Drill an 1/8" [3.2mm] hole, 1/2" [12.7mm] deep

through the landing gear rail and torque block. The hole
should be perpendicular to the landing gear rail and 1/4"
from the W3 rib. Be careful not to drill through the top LE
sheeting.

❏ ❏ 27.Cut a 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x 762mm]

balsa sheet 23" [584.2mm] long for the forward bottom
sheeting. The sheeting must be trimmed to fit around the
landing gear rail so that it fits flush with the top of the rail.

A. Using chalk, mar k the outline of the landing gear rail.

HOW TO LOCATE STRUCTURE UNDER SHEETING

15