Great Planes GPMA0162 User Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61801 [phone]

CUB6P03 2/96 V1.1

Entire Contents © Copyright 1995

INTRODUCTION

PRECAUTIONS.................................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE........................................3

Engine and mount

Wing configuration......................................................4

PREPARATIONS..............................................................4

Accessories and additional items................................4

Building supplies and tools..........................................4

Common abbreviations ...............................................5

Types of wood .............................................................5

What about adhesives?...............................................5

Die-cut patterns......................................................6 &7

Get ready to build........................................................9

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES...........................................9

Build the rudder...........................................................9

Build the fin................................................................10

Build the stabilizer

Build the elevators.....................................................10

Finish the tail surfaces...............................................11

Hinge the tail surfaces...............................................12

BUILD THE WING

Preparation................................................................13

Build the wing tips .....................................................13

Build the wing panels ................................................13

Add the wing tips.......................................................16

Install top and bottom LE sheeting ............................19

Build the aileron servo hatch compartment...............21

Join the wing panels..................................................22

Complete the wing sheeting......................................23

Build the ailerons.......................................................24

Mount the aileron servos...........................................26

Install the aileron linkage...........................................26

BUILD THE FUSELAGE ................................................26

Build the fuselage sides ............................................26

Join the fuselage sides..............................................28

Sheet the fuselage deck............................................31

Install the pushrod tubes ...........................................31

Install the stabilizer base...........................................32

Install the engine and mount .....................................32

Install the fuel tank and throttle cable........................33

Mount the landing gear

Sheet the bottom of the fuselage ..............................34

Mount the wing ..........................................................34

Mount the stabilizer and fin .......................................35

Build the side stringers..............................................36

Add the

FINISHING......................................................................37

Build the wing struts ..................................................37

Fit the windshield and side windows .........................39

Assemble the cowl

Final sanding.............................................................41

SCALE DETAILS.............................................................41

Landing
Gas

cap.....................................................................41

Wire step
Propeller

Pilot and false floor....................................................41

...............................................................3

.......................................................3

.....................................................10

...........................................................13

.............................................33

tail

fairing blocks

gear

struts....................................................41

...................................................................41

hub.............................................................41

..........................................37

....................................................39

Exhaust

Dummy engine ..........................................................42

Balance the airplane laterally ....................................43

COVERING......................................................................43

Covering notes ..........................................................43

Covering sequence ...................................................43

Painting

FINAL ASSEMBLY.........................................................44

Install the wheels.......................................................44

Install the windows ....................................................44

Hinging ......................................................................45

Balance your model...................................................45

Final radio installation and control hookup................46

Control surface throws ..............................................47

Apply decals and trim ................................................48

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS

Check for wing twist...................................................48

Balance the propeller

Pre-flight....................................................................48

Range check your radio ............................................49

Engine
AMA Safety

FLYING............................................................................50

Find a safe place to fly ..............................................50

Takeoff.......................................................................50

Flight..........................................................................50

Landing......................................................................51

TWO VIEW DRAWING

Your Great Planes Piper J-3 Cub 60 is not a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much
like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the Cub 60, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally

enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,
knowledgeable help with assembly and during your
first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model

before you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model

Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them,
instructor training programs and insured newcomer training
are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone

number below.

outlet............................................................42

.....................................................................44

..................................48

................................................48

safety

precautions

Code

......................................................49

.....................................back

.........................................49

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

cover

2

Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great

Planes Piper J-3 CUB 60!

This J-3 CUB is a 1:4.7 scale model of the full-size version
It's easy to build and fly, predictable, fairly aerobatic, and
has no "bad habits" making it a great sport-scale airplane
Although the model is sufficiently close to scale that it can
place well in sport-scale competition, traditional Great
Planes quality and ruggedness is evident throughout,
making this an airplane you'll want to take along every time
you go to the flying field Its 90" wingspan makes it
International Miniature Aircraft Association* (IMAA) legal
(as is the 83" clipped wing version).

*IMAA is an organization that promotes non-competitive
flying of giant scale models.

IMAA

International Miniature Aircraft Association

205 S Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

This is not a beginner's airplane! While the J-3 CUB is

easy to build and flies great we must discourage you from
selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane It lacks the

self-recovery characteristics of a good basic trainer such
as the Great Planes PT Series On the other hand if you
have already learned the basics of R/C flying and you are
able to safely handle a "trainer" airplane, the J-3 CUB is an
excellent choice to improve your skills and learn
new maneuvers

1 You must build the plane according to the plans and

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model In a few cases
the plans and instructions may differ slightly from the
photos In those instances you should assume the plans
and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong
3 You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class

condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc ) throughout your
building process.

4 You must properly install all R/C and other components so

that the model operates properly on the ground and in the air.
5 You must test the operation of the model before the first

and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
operating and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound Be sure to check the nylon
clevises often, and replace if they show signs of wear

6. You must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot if you are not already
an experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time

NOTE We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions but ultimately the
quality of your finished model depends on how you build it,
therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model

Remember: Take your time and follow directions to

end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to

build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone] and we'll be
glad to help. If you are calling for replacement parts,
please look up the part numbers and the kit
identification number (stamped on the end of the
carton) and have them ready when calling.

3

D Four-channel radio with 5 servos
D "Y" Harness (Futaba J HCAM2500, Airtronics

HCAM2520, JR HCAM2530)*

-or­D Dual Servo Extension (Futaba J FUTM4130)
D 6" Servo extension cords (3) (Futaba J HCAM2000,

Airtronics HCAM2020, JR HCAM2030)

D Propellers (see engine instructions for

recommended size)

D 12 to 16 oz Fuel Tank (12 oz. GPMQ4105, 14 oz.

GPMQ4106, 16 oz GPMQ4107)
D 1-1/2" Tail Wheel (GPMQ4243)
D 4" Cub Wheels (GPMQ4230 3-3/8" Piper Cub

Wheels suitable)
D 3/16" Wheel Collars (4) (GPMQ4308, pkg of 4)
D 3/32' Wheel Collars (2) (GPMQ4302, pkg of 4)
D 3/16" Bolt on Axle Shafts (GPMQ4278)
D 25 foot roll model covering (Top Flite Cub Yellow

MonoKote Covering TOPQ1220)
D 1/8" black striping tape (GPMQ1480)
D Medium silicone Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
D 1/2" thick Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050)
D Flexible Cable throttle pushrod (opt'l) (GPMQ3700)
D Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors (opt'l) (GPMQ3870)
D Switch & Charge Jack Mount (optional) (GPMM1000)
D Fuel filter (optional) (GPMQ4150)
D Fueling Valve (GPMQ4160)
D Fuelproof paint (see "Painting" section of instructions

on page 44)
D 3" scale pilot (optional) - (Williams Bros. WBRQ2626)

*ltems in parenthesis (GPMQ4130) are suggested part

numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops and
are listed for your convenience Our own brand has been
provided where possible GPM is the Great Planes brand,

HCA is the Hobbico brand, TOP is Top Flite

D 2 oz Thin CA Adhesive - (GPMR6015)
D 2 oz Medium CA Adhesive - (GPMR6009)
D 2 oz Thick CA Adhesive - (GPMR6003)
D CA accelerator (optional) - (HCAR3750)
D CA applicator tips (optional) - (HCAR3780)
D 6-Minute Epoxy - (GPMR6045)
D 30-Minute Epoxy - (GPMR6047)
D Pacer Z-560 (optional) - for gluing windscreen and

side windows (PAAR3300)
D Silver Solder (recommended) - (GPMR8070 w/flux)
D Hand or Electric Drill
D Drill Bits 1/16", 3/32", 7/64" or #35, 1/8", #29 or 9/64",

11/64", 3/16", #10 or 13/64", 7/32", 15/64", 17/64" and

1/4"

D Sealing Iron - (TOPR2100)
D Hot Sock (optional) - (TOPR2175)
D Heat Gun (optional) - (TOPR2000)
D Razor Saw

D #1 knife handle - (XACR4305)
D #11 Blades - (XACR3121 pkg of 5)
D Common pliers
D Screwdrivers (phillips and flat)
D T-Pins - (HCAR5100 small, HCAR5150 medium,

HCAR5200 large)

D Straightedge - (Fourmost Non Slip FORR2149)
D Masking Tape
D Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
D T-Bar or sanding block
D Waxed Paper
D Lightweight Balsa Filler - (HCAR3401)
D 5/32" brass tube (optional)
D 1/8" brass tube (optional)
D Tap Wrench
D 1/4-20 Tap - (GPMR8105 w/dnll bit)
D 8-32 tap - (GPMR8103 w/dnll bit)
D 6-32 tap - (GPMR8102 w/dnll bit)
D IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
D Dremel Moto Tool or similar w/sanding drum, cutting

burr (optional)
D 9/64" ball end hex wrench - (GPMR8004)
D Kyosho" Curved Scissors (optional) - (KYOR1010)

4

On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders,
equipped with #50, #80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper.
This setup is all that is required for almost any sanding
task. Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa for
sanding hard to reach spots. We also keep some
#320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.

T-Bar sanding tools are made from lightweight
extruded aluminum and can be found at most hobby
shops. A 2" x 11" strip of sandpaper is attached to the
T-Bar by gluing it on with rubber cement. Apply the rubber
cement to both the bottom of the T-Bar and the back of
the sandpaper. When both surfaces are dry, press the
sandpaper firmly onto the T-Bar. Spray adhesive can be
used for this purpose but it's harder to remove the
sandpaper when you need to replace it.
Wooden sanding blocks can be made from 11" lengths of
1" x 2" scrap lumber. Start on one side, then wrap a sheet
of sandpaper completely around the wood, ending on the
same side as the one you started on. Push 3 or 4
thumbtacks into this edge, then trim off the excess material.

Balsa Basswood Plywood

We understand that the caliber of modelers likely to build
the Great Planes Cub 60 may be rather high. You may
already know all about the types of adhesives you like to
use. However, due to its stability and easy building
features, many first time or second time builders may try
their hand at the Great Planes Cub 60. For those modelers
(experts may read along), we have provided some
explanation about the variety of adhesives used during
construction of a model.

Cyanoacrylate or CA glue has changed the way models
are built more than any other advance in modeling
technology. In the good ol' days, model cement like
Ambroid, Duco, Comet and Sigment were the glues of
choice. They all had a strong odor that could cause
dizziness, dried slowly (compared to CA) and became
brittle with age. CA, on the other hand, is stronger, works
almost instantly and is bottled in three different viscosities
(thicknesses). CA is used for most glue joints, except where
epoxy is specified. CA does emit rather strong fumes (some
say it's like tear gas) as it cures, so rule number one is to

work in a well ventilated area. All CA glues work best if
the joints are smooth and fit well.

Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood

Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches

Thin CA is also known simply as CA. This
is the adhesive that has revolutionized
model building because it allows you to
assemble the parts first, then apply the
adhesive. The thin formulation flows or
"wicks" into the joints and sets almost
instantly, eliminating the need to hold

things together while the glue dries. You
will often use Thin CA for the initial bond, then follow with
medium or thick CA for extra strength, especially when gluing
plywood or hardwood. (Continued on page 8)

5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

7

CA+ is also known as medium or gap
filling CA CA+ is used for surface

gluing, filling small gaps between poorly
matched parts and for general purpose
applications It cures slower than thin CA,
allowing you to apply a bead to two or
three parts before assembly Curing time
without accelerator is 20-30 seconds

CA- or thick CA is used when extra
positioning time is needed CA- is a great
gap filler and is also used to make fillets

when a little extra strength is required.

Curing time is about 1-2 minutes.

Accelerator is a liquid chemical that
comes in a spray bottle for use in
speeding up the cure time of all CA
types It should be misted on, not
sprayed heavily on the joint Accelerator

may cause exposed CA to bubble and
sometimes change color. If accelerator

is sprayed on too heavily it may weaken
the glue joint, so use it sparingly

hold-down blocks As with most epoxies you mix equal
parts of resin and hardener, stir well, then apply a thin film
to each part Parts should be clamped, pinned, taped or
weighted in place until fully cured Before the epoxy cures,
clean off any excess with a paper towel A word of caution
about mixing epoxy-don't use extra hardener in the
hopes of making the mixture harder or work faster Just

about all epoxies work best with exactly a 50/50 mix When
you increase the amount of hardener you run the risk of
causing the cured epoxy to become either brittle or
rubbery-neither being as strong as a properly mixed batch.

6-Minute epoxy is used
for simple, small gluing
applications-where
elaborate alignment is not

equired Working time
(before it's too gooey to
use) is about 5 minutes,

handling time 15 minutes
and it's fully cured in about

1 hour.

Epoxy

Great Planes has two epoxy formulations available for the
modeler Both offer exceptional strength and convenient
working times Use epoxy when the joint requires
exceptional strength, such as when installing the firewall,
when joining the wing panels, and when installing wing

30-minute epoxy is used
for extra strength (because
it can penetrate longer) and
where several parts must

e aligned and checked
before it cures Working
time is about 25 minutes,
handling time 2 hours, and
it's fully cured in 8 hours

Great Planes Pro" Wood Glue is an Aliphatic resin glue
that works well on all types
odorless and dries clear Some people are sensitive to CA
and epoxy fumes, so this is a good alternative for general
modeling use Its only drawback is that it is slow to cure,
requiring the parts to be securely clamped, pinned or taped
while the glue dries

Okay, you've got your work space ready your tools are at
hand, and you know how to choose and use the right glue
for the job Let's get started!

of

wood

It

is

non-toxic, virtually

8

D 1 Unroll the plan sheets Reroll the plan inside out to
make them lie flat

MARK

CENTERLINES

Before beginning construction of each individual tail
surface tape waxed paper over the drawing when it is
time to build that piece Begin with the rudder

D 1 Place the die-cut 5/16" balsa rudder parts R2, R3,
R4 and R5 over the plan in their locations Check each

joint for a good fit and make adjustments if necessary Pin

the parts to the building board but do not use glue at
this time.

D 2 Locate the die-cut 1/16" plywood sheet W01 and the
die-cut 1/8" plywood sheet W02 Draw centerlines on the
dihedral braces, wing joiners and wing bolt plate by
connecting the punch marks.

D 3 Remove all parts from the box As you do, determine
the name of each part by comparing it with the plan and
the parts list included with this kit Using a ball point pen,
lightly write the part name or size on each piece to avoid
confusion later Use the die-cut patterns shown on pages 7
and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them before
removing them from the sheet Save all scraps If any of
the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out do not force

them' Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife

After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar sander
or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any

die-cutting irregularities

D 4 As you identify and mark the parts, separate them

into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware.

NOTE: The purpose for checking each joint for a good fit is
to be sure the finished shape of the assembly matches
that of the drawing on the plan Every joint may not be an
exact fit due to the technical nature of die-cutting such thick
wood (5/16") If you're a very discriminating builder, you are
likely to spend a few extra moments perfecting the fit of
each and every joint before reaching for the CA Simply

filling in the small gap where noticeable with thick CA is an

alternate method to custom fitting each part and will yield a

secure, strong glue joint

D 2 Select the straightest piece of 5/16" x 7/8" x 24" balsa
stick Set this piece aside for use later on the stabilizer
trailing edge

D 3 Cut the rudder leading edge from another 5/16" x

7/8" x 24" balsa stick Check for a good fit, then pin the LE
to the building board over its location Cut the horizontal
frame section from the remaining piece of balsa and pin

into position

Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store your

parts as you sort, identify and separate them into
sub-assemblies

D 4 Remove the parts from the plan, then one at a time,
pin each piece back into position using thick CA to
securely glue the parts together Wipe away excess glue

with a paper towel before it cures - sanding will be

easier later

9

D 5 Cut the ribs from the 5/16" x 5/16" x 30" balsa stick.
Position the ribs in the rudder frame and securely glue
them in place with thick CA.

D 6 Remove the rudder from the building board and
inspect all the glue joints Add thin CA to all the tight-fitting
joints and thick CA to any open joints Large gaps may be
filled with balsa dust and thin CA.

D 1. Securely glue the die-cut 5/16" balsa stabilizer parts
S2 and S3 together over the plan.

D 2 Position S1 and the two S4's over their locations on
the plan Check the fit of the joints, make adjustments if
necessary, then pin them in place.

D 3. Cut the stabilizer trailing edge from a 5/16" x 7/8"
balsa stick. Fit the trailing edge between the S4's.

D 4 When satisfied with all joints, remove the assembly
from the building board Reinstall each part on the building
board with pins, gluing them together with thick CA as you
proceed.

D 5. Cut the ribs from the 5/16" x 5/16" x 24" balsa stick
and glue them in place with thick CA.

D 1. Locate the die-cut 5/16" balsa fin leading edge R1
and pin it in place on the plan.

D 2. Cut the fin top, fin base, and the inner and outer fin
trailing edges from the remaining 5/16" x 7/8" balsa strip
Pin the parts in place and make sure all the joints fit well.
Remove the parts and securely glue each joint with thick
CA as you pin them back into position.

D 6 Remove the stabilizer from the building board and
inspect all the glue joints. Apply thick or thin CA where
necessary.

D D 1. Pin the die-cut 5/16" balsa elevator parts S5, S6
and S7 on the plan, making adjustments for any poor-fitting

glue joints.
D D 2 Cut the elevator leading edge from a 5/16" x 7/8"

balsa strip Fit the LE in place on the plan and pin it in
place Glue all of the joints with thick CA, in the same
manner as described previously.

D 3 Cut the ribs from the remaining 5/16" x 5/16" balsa
stick. Glue them in place with thick CA.

D 4. Remove the Fin from the building board and inspect
all the glue joints Apply thick or thin CA where necessary.

D D 3. Cut the elevator ribs from the 5/16" x 5/16" balsa
stick and glue in position with thick CA.

D D 4. Remove the elevator from the building board and
inspect all the glue joints. Add CA where necessary Build
the other elevator.

10

D 1. Carefully sand all the tail surfaces flat with 150-grit
sandpaper and a large sanding block or T-bar. Remove as

little material as possible and don't get carried
away - inspect your work as you proceed. It's easy to
sand a low spot into the ribs or trailing edges.

D 2. Centerlines must be drawn where the hinges are to
be inserted. Start with an elevator. A Bic ball point pen lines
up with the center of the 5/16" thick balsa (double check
this - the height may vary due to the extent of your sanding
or different pens. Adjust the height of the pen or the
elevator as necessary to draw a centered line). Lay the
elevator and the pen on a flat table and draw a line on the
edge. Draw centerlines on the leading edges of the rudder
and elevators, and on the trailing edges of the stabilizer
and

fin.

D 5. Trial fit the tail gear wire in the rudder. Make
adjustments if necessary.

D 6. Position the elevators on the plan and center the
elevator joiner wire over the elevators. Transfer the
location of the joiner wire to the elevators. Make the marks

lightly so they may be sanded off easily.

D 3. From the bottom of the rudder measure 1-5/8" along
the leading edge. Then drill a 7/64" hole, 3/4" deep, where
the tail wheel wire fits into the rudder.

D 4. Groove the rudder to clear the hinge bearing. A
sharpened piece of 5/32" brass tubing works well as a tool
to cut the groove.

D 7. Accurately drill a 9/64" (or #29) hole into each
elevator leading edge approximately 1" deep. The hole
must be perpendicular to the elevator leading edge.

0 8. Cut a groove in the leading edge of the elevators to
accept the elevator joiner wire. A sharpened piece of 1/8"
brass tube works well to cut the groove just as you did

the rudder.

D 9. Test fit (do not glue yet) the joiner in the elevators.

With the joiner inserted, the elevators must lie flat and the

leading edges must line up with a straightedge. If the

elevators both don't lie flat on a table top, you may make

slight adjustments by carefully twisting the joiner wire. If the

leading edges don't match up with a straight edge, you

may slightly enlarge the holes drilled into the elevator

leading edges to allow slight repositioning.

11

D 1 Cut the hinges from the supplied 2" x 9" composite
hinge material You will need six hinges for the elevator
and three for the rudder Store the remaining hinges for
use later during construction.

D 2 Use the plan as a guide to lightly mark the locations
of the hinges Refer to the Expert Tip that follows, then cut
matching hinge slots in all four parts.

Expert tip for using CA hinges

The hinge material supplied in this kit consists of a
3-layer lamination of mylar and polyester It is specially
made for the purpose of hinging model airplane control
surfaces Properly installed, this type of hinge provides
the best combination of strength, durability and ease of
installation We trust even our best show models to these
hinges, but it is essential to install them correctly
Please follow the instructions carefully to obtain the best
results These instructions may be used to effectively
install any of the various brands of CA hinges.

the slot If the hinge does not slide in easily, work the
knife blade back and forth in the slot a few times to
provide more clearance (it is really the back edge of the
blade that does the work here in widening the slot).

B Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep, in the center of the
hinge slot. If you use a Dremel Moto-TooF for this task,
it will result in a cleaner hole than if you use a slower
speed power or hand drill Drilling the hole will twist
some of the wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to
insert the hinge so you should reinsert the knife blade,
working it back and forth a few times to clean out the
slot.

C Trial fit the hinges into the slots and, without using
any glue, temporarily attach the control surface, to verify

the

fit.

STOP! DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN PLACE UNTIL
AFTER THE MODEL IS COVERED!

The most common mistake made by modelers when
permanently installing this type of hinge is not applying a
sufficient amount of glue to fully secure the hinge over its
entire surface area, or, the hinge slots are very tight,
restricting the flow of CA to the back of the hinges This
results in hinges that are only "tack glued" approximately
1/8" to 1/4" into the hinge slots The following technique
has been developed to help ensure thorough and
secure gluing.

A. Cut the hinge slot using a #11 blade in a standard #1
knife handle The CA hinges provided have a thickness
that fits this type of slot very well Trial fit the hinge into

D 3 Bevel the leading edges of the elevator and rudder

Draw the "bevel to" lines on the leading edges of the
elevators and the rudder Refer to the plan for the
correct angle.

D 4. Carve or sand the bevel on the leading edges of the
rudder and elevators A razor plane allows you to rough-in
the bevel before finishing with a sanding block

D 5 Reinstall the hinges and test fit the operation of the
rudder and the elevators Make adjustments in the hinge
slots if necessary Now would be a good time to designate
a top and bottom of the elevators and stabilizer - just in

case one side looks a little better than the other

12

D 6 Sand the leading edges of the stabilizer, fin and the
trailing edges of the rudder and elevators to a rounded
shape, as shown in the cross-sections on the plan.

D 7. Sand the elevator joiner with 150-grit sandpaper for
good glue adhesion then liberally pack the holes in the
elevators with 30-minute epoxy Insert the joiner and wipe
away epoxy before it cures.

D D 1. Place the die-cut 1/4" balsa wing tip parts T1, T2
and T3 over the plan and check all joints for proper fit.
Make adjustments if necessary Pin the parts over the
plan, gluing with thick CA as you proceed.

D D 2 Remove the wing tip from the building board and
inspect all the glue joints Add thin CA to all tight joints and
thick CA to all open joints.

IMPORTANT: For an airplane to fly well with no
unexpected tendencies, all good modelers understand that
each assembly - especially the wing - must be built on a
flat surface This is important advice for new builders Also,
a relatively soft, flat building board that you can stick "T"
pins into is required. This is for pinning down individual
parts that make up the completed assembly A suitable
building board is a sheet of ceiling tile or "Celotex" used in
home construction This material may be found at
hardware or home improvement stores. If the building
board is not flat, it must be clamped to your flat building
table. Now we're ready to begin!

NOTE: The plan shows the two different wing types

which may be built from this kit. You may choose the

standard wing or the clipped wing version Generally, the

clipped wing will be more aerobatic than the standard wing

If you decide to build the clipped wing, cut the plan on the
dashed line between the two R4 ribs Overlap the plan
towards the center of the wing and match the registration
marks as indicated. Keep the plan straight, then tape it
together when you have the registration marks aligned
Check the alignment with a straightedge. No change is
necessary for the standard wing.

D D 3 Place the wing tip on your work surface and lightly
sand both sides flat and smooth with a sanding block and
150-grit sandpaper.

D 4. Return to step 1 and build the other wing tip.

NOTE: One R4 rib is eliminated from each wing panel if
building the clipped wing.

Build one wing "half or panel at a time. You may cut each
wing panel from the plan sheet to place on your building
board. Tape the right wing plan to your flat work surface,

and cover it with waxed paper.

D 1 Carefully punch out all the die-cut 1/8" balsa R2
through R8 wing ribs and the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib
doublers R7B Sand the edges slightly to remove any
die-cutting irregularities. Use thick CA to laminate the

R7Bs to ribs R7. Don't forget to make a RIGHT and
a LEFT.

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TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

STRAIGHT WING

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

WARPED WING

D D 2 Locate all four 1/2" x 1/2" x 40" basswood spars.

Examine them carefully for possible imperfections Look for
knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and any other
imperfections If possible, position each spar so the
imperfections are on the outer half of the wing panel
(toward the tip) where they will be least affected by high
stress If the spars are warped slightly, try to "balance them
out by installing the warped spars in opposite directions
(see sketch).

D D 5. Without gluing, place ribs R3 through R7 and the
laminated R7/R7B (but not R2 or R8) on the spar in their
locations as shown on the plan If building the clipped wing

version, discard one of the R4 ribs.

NOTE: Rib 3 does not contact the plan since the center

section will be sheeted later.

D D 6 Slide the trailing edge sheet against the notches in
the bottom of the ribs The outer tip of the sheet should
match the plan and the "overhang" should be at the
center section.

D D 7 Position the die-cut 1/8" balsa outer trailing edge
at the rear of ribs R5 through R7.

D D 3. Do not use any glue until step 15. For now,

we're just making preparations and familiarizing
ourselves with the layout Place one of the 1/2" x 1/2" x

40" basswood spars on the wing plan and pin the spar
down with crossed T-pins as shown in the sketch We
recommend crossed T-pins at every rib bay (the space
between the ribs) NOTE: Align the end of the spar with the
outboard edge of wing rib R8 at the wing tip.

D D 4. Locate a 3/32" x 2" x 40" balsa trailing edge
sheet. It is supplied slightly wide so you may trim it to
straighten any bowed edges Using a straightedge, trim the
piece to 1-29/32". Set the trailing edge sheet aside for now.

D D 8 Mark a line on the trailing edge sheet against the
entire length of the outside of the outer trailing edge and rib

R5 As you mark the line, make sure all ribs and the outer

trailing edge are lying flat on the sheet.

D D 9. Remove the sheet and use a straightedge and
knife to cut along the line. Save the scrap piece.

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D D 10 Slide the finished trailing edge sheet into
position. Don't reach for the glue yet Add rib R8.

D D 14 Match the notches in the 42" shaped balsa
leading edge with the plan Add the leading edge to the
ribs (still no glue) making sure each rib is fitted into its

respective notch Center the leading edge so there is an
equal amount of space above and below each rib Cut the
leading edge flush with rib R2.

D D 11 Locate the tapered balsa inner trailing edge If

you are building the clipped wing version, be sure the
rib notches line up with the rib locations on the plan
before cutting. Pin the inner trailing edge in position with

the ribs in the notches, then cut the outboard tip of the
inner trailing edge flush with the outboard edge of rib R5.

D D 12. Fit the ribs into the notches on the inner trailing

edge, then push it as far forward as it will go until the ribs
are fully seated Pull the sheet back until it is tight against
the trailing edge Pin the inner trailing edge and the trailing
edge sheet to the plan Install rib R2.

NOTE: Rib 2 will not contact the plan since the center
section will be sheeted later.

Double check your work Make sure all ribs are

contacting the trailing edge sheet and fit all the way
onto the basswood spar. Confirm that each rib meets the

spar exactly at its intended location over the plan After all
the fitting and Jiggling of parts, now is the time to be sure
the spar is still securely pinned to your flat building board.
Repin or add more pins if necessary

Let's start gluing!

D D 13 Cut the 1/4" x 1/2" x 18" balsa aileron servo rail
stick into four pieces, 3-3/4" each Remove both R6 ribs

Install both servo rails Refer to the cross-section

drawing - be sure both servo rails are fully seated into their

notches The ends of the servo rails must be flush with the
ribs Reinstall the assembly over the spar and into the outer

trailing edge (I promise we'll be gluing soon).

D D 15 Beginning with rib R3, use the die-cut 1/8"

plywood 90 degree triangle (indicated as "90") to make
sure the rib is vertical while you add a few drops of thin CA
where the rib meets the spar Don't glue rib R2 to the
spar until instructed to do so. Be sure the bottom rear of
each rib is contacting the trailing edge sheet Don't add too

much CA - we're just "tack gluing" now Add a few drops of
CA to R2 where it contacts the trailing edge sheet Glue the

remaining ribs to the spar and trailing edge sheet (don't
glue R2 to the main spar) making sure each rib is

vertical and contacting the trailing edge sheeting.

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D D 16. Wick thin CA along the joint where the outer
trailing edge contacts the sheet and also to each rib. Glue
both servo rails to the R6 ribs and glue the aft servo rail to
the sheeting. Wick thin CA into the notches in the inner
trailing edge at each rib and glue the inner trailing edge to
the trailing edge sheet.

D D 17. Confirm that the leading edge is still centered
and each rib is tightly fitted into the notches. Refer to the
sketch at step 14 to see how the leading edge matches the
ribs; the leading edge is tilted downward somewhat. Wick
thin CA into each joint.

D D 18. Install the top 1/2" x 1/2" x 40" basswood spar.
Confirm that the top of the spar is flush with the top of each
rib and make sure the ribs are vertical (90°). The outer tip
of the spar should be flush with rib R8, just like the bottom
spar. Glue the spar in place with thin CA.

HOW TO MAKE A BEVEL

The following process will help you create a bevel that is

right the first time.

A) First, you need a fresh, full sheet of 220-grit
sandpaper. Draw the bevel lines and reference lines on
the part. The bevel lines are the lines that you sand to.
The reference lines are lines slightly over the size of the
bevel that you use as a reference in order to keep the
bevel parallel.

D D 1. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood wing tip brace,
the die-cut 1/8" balsa wing tip rib R9 and your previously
assembled outer wing tip. Sand off the "die-cut bump" from
the wing tip brace.

D D 2. Fit the wing tip rib R9 into the plywood wing tip
brace and slide the assembly into the ribs along the spars.
Slide the previously prepared outer wing tip into position.

Refer to the following Expert Tip to bevel the leading edge
of the wing tip.

B) Sand to the bevel lines. The method of sanding is
important. Sand only in one direction - usually "dragging"
the part is best as it keeps it from "chattering" and
creating the unwanted rounded bevel. It helps to imagine
the angle of the bevel required as you begin to sand. Just
take a little off at a time and mind your border lines.

C) After careful sanding and frequently inspecting your
work as you go, you will have a sharp, accurate bevel.
The bevel is parallel to the reference lines.

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