Great Planes GPMA0152 User Manual
Assembly manual for the Easy Sport 40 and 60
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled
product By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they
are advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK
FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
PO Box 788 Urbana Illinois 61801 (217)3988970
ESP46P03 6/96 V 1 0
Entire Contents © Copyright 1996
Introduction ...............................................................3
Precautions...............................................................3
Abbreviations ............................................................4
Types of wood...........................................................4
Metric conversion chart.............................................4
Decisions you must make......................................4
Engine selection ....................................................4
Landing
Die-cut patterns.....................................................5, 6
Required items..........................................................7
Tools and supplies ....................................................7
Preparing the work surface.......................................7
Get ready to build......................................................8
Tail feathers.............................................................8
Build the rudder
Build the fin............................................................9
Build the
Build the elevators ...............................................10
Join the elevators.................................................10
Install the hinges..................................................10
Wing assembly......................................................12
Prepare wing parts...............................................12
Spars...................................................................12
Ribs......................................................................12
Leading and trailing edges...................................13
Leading edge joiner .............................................13
Build the wing panels...........................................13
Join the wing panels ............................................15
Install the center ribs and sheeting......................17
Install the wing tips ..............................................21
Install the ailerons................................................21
Install the wing bolt plate .....................................22
Fuselage assembly...............................................23
Fuselage sides.....................................................23
Firewall assembly
Former preparation..............................................26
Assemble the fuselage ........................................26
Install landing gear mounts..................................28
Install the firewall .................................................29
Install the landing gear blocks .............................30
Install the pushrod guide tubes............................32
gear configuration
.....................................................8
stabilizer..................................................9
................................................24
....................................4
Finish the fuselage...............................................33
Final assembly.....................................................35
Cut center fairing from fuselage...........................35
Mount wing to fuselage........................................36
Engine installation................................................40
Fuelproof the fuselage.........................................40
Install horizontal stab...........................................41
Install vertical fin ..................................................41
Mount landing gear..............................................42
Final fit of the engine ...........................................44
Install radio and pushrods....................................44
Finishing................................................................46
Additional fuelproofing .........................................46
Balance the airplane laterally...............................46
Remove the engine and radio..............................47
Final sanding .......................................................47
Covering ..............................................................47
Recommended covering sequence.....................47
Applying trim and decals......................................47
Glue the hinges....................................................48
Install the pilot......................................................48
Install canopy.......................................................49
Wing seating........................................................49
Reinstall engine & radio.......................................50
Install wheels.......................................................50
Balance your model .............................................50
Final hookups and checks ...................................51
Preflight................................................................51
Balance the propeller...........................................51
Find a safe place to fly.........................................51
Ground check the model......................................52
Range check the radio.........................................52
Engine safety precautions ...................................52
AMA safety code
General................................................................53
Radio control........................................................53
Flying .....................................................................53
Takeoff.................................................................53
Flying...................................................................53
Landing................................................................54
...................................................53
Two-view drawing..................................Back Cover
2
Your Easy Sport is not a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much
like an actual airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, the Easy
Sport, if not assembled and operated correctly, could
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage property
To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,
knowledgeable help with assembly and during your
first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your
model before you're truly ready to solo Your local hobby
shop has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors
You can also contact the national Academy of
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300
chartered clubs across the country Through any one of
them, instructor training programs and insured
newcomer training are available
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.
The Easy Sport is not a beginner's airplane' It is
relatively fast, highly maneuverable, and lacks the self
recovery characteristics of a good basic trainer such as
the Great Planes PT-40 Mkll If you have already learned
the basics of R/C flying and can safely handle a basic
trainer, the Easy Sport is an excellent choice to sharpen
your skills and learn more advanced maneuvers
We think you will agree that the Great Planes
Easy Sport is the highest quality, best flying model of its
type on the market today'
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting
to build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective,
or if you have any questions about building or flying
this model, please call us at (217) 398-8970 and we'll
be glad to help. If you are calling for replacement
parts, please look up the part numbers and the kit
identification number (stamped on the end of the
carton) and have them ready when calling.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tel: (800) 435-9262
Fax:(317)741-0057
Thank you for choosing the Great Planes Easy Sport
as your new project Now that you have mastered the
basics of flight with your primary trainer, you are now
ready to advance to the next higher level - a level that will
open the doors to aerobatics With the experience you ve
acquired with your trainer along with the Great Planes
Easy Sport, you will be able to experiment with, and
master, the maneuvers that your club pros perform
The Easy Sport, with its shoulder mounted wing,
rugged construction and heavy-duty landing gear, will
allow you to practice and perfect any maneuver you
desire But don't let its aerobatic qualities put you off
The Easy Sport is also an extremely docile flier Thanks
to its thick semi-symmetrical airfoil, generous moments
and light wing loading, you'll be able to "grease her in"
every time
If you've mastered your trainer and are ready to
progress to advanced flight maneuvers the Great
Planes Easy Sport is just the ticket for easy-flying,
smooth aerobatics Welcome to the world of sport flying
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
1. You must assemble the plane according to the
instructions Do not alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances you should assume the written
instructions are correct
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong
3 You must properly install all R/C components and
other items so that the model operates properly on the
ground and in the air.
4 You must test the operation of the model before the
first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment is operating, and you must make certain that
the model has remained structurally sound
3
Both the Easy Sport 40 and 60 are built from this
manual. Nearly all the parts in the Easy Sport series
are identical, so most of the differences are only in the
size and thicknesses of the pieces - you can't even
tell from most of the photos When important
differences do arise between the 40 and 60, they are
clearly indicated so you'll have all the information you
need to build your model.
Commonly used abbreviations
deg = Degrees
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge
(front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Balsa Basswood Plywood
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge
(rear)
" = Inches
The recommended engine size range is as follows:
Easy Sport 40 Easy Sport 60
40 to 50 cu in 2-stroke .60 to 90 cu in 2-stroke
.60 to .80 cu. in. 4-stroke .70 to 1.20 cu. in 4-stroke
The Easy Sport 40 will fly well with any of the
recommended engine sizes For "Hot Dogging" and
speedy performance we suggest either an 0 S 46FX or
a SuperTigre" GS-45, both 2-stroke engines An O.S.
FS-70 Surpass is a good choice for those who prefer
4-stroke engines
For the Easy Sport 60, an O.S. 61 SF or a SuperTigre
S-61K will have you burning holes in the sky with power
to spare If a 4-stroke engine is what you desire, the
O.S. FS-91 is the perfect choice
The Great Planes Easy Sport can be set up with
tricycle gear (nose wheel) or built to be a taildragger
Many pilots prefer taildraggers as they are more sporty
looking and offer less drag than the traditional landing
gear configuration But they can present minor ground
handling problems Tricycle gear, on the other hand,
provides stable tracking during takeoff and landing, but is
heavier and creates more drag than a tail wheel.
If you choose to build your Easy Sport 40 as a
taildragger, you will need to purchase a wire tail gear
assembly (GPMQ1900), a 1" tail wheel (GPMQ4241) and
two 3/32" wheel collars (GPMQ4302) For the Easy Sport
60 you will need to purchase a wire tail gear assembly
(GPMQ1900), a 1-1/2" tail wheel(GPMQ4243) and two
3/32" wheel collars (GPMQ4302).
1/64"
1/32"
1/16"
3/32"
1/8"
5/32"
.4mm
.8 mm
1.6
mm
2.4 mm
3.2mm
4.0mm
3/16"
1/4"
3/8"
1/2"
5/8"
3/4"
Metric Conversion Chart
Inches x 25.4
=
4.8 mm
=
6.4 mm
=
9.5
mm
= 12.7mm
= 15.9mm
= 19.0mm
mm (conversion factor)
1"
2"
3"
6"
12"
18"
4
25.4
mm
50.8
mm
76.2
mm
152.4 mm
304.8 mm
457.2 mm
21"
24"
30"
36"
533.4 mm
609.6 mm
762.0 mm
914.4
mm
DIE-CUT DRAWINGS
Use This Diagram To Locate Die-Cut Parts For The Easy Sport 40.
5
DIE-CUT DRAWINGS
Use This Diagram To Locate Die-Cut Parts For The Easy Sport 60.
6
D Four-channel Radio With 4 Servos
D Engine (see page 4)
D Glow Plug (see engine instructions)
D Propeller (see engine instructions for sizes)
D 1/4" Thick Foam Rubber (HCAQ1000)
D 12" Silicone Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
Accessories Required to Complete Your Easy Sport 40
D 2-1/2" Spinner (GPMQ4520)
D 10oz. Fuel Tank (GPMQ4104)
D (3) 2-1/2" Wheels (GPMQ4223)
D Wheel Collars (2ea ) 5/32" (GPMQ4306)
(4ea)3/16"(GPMQ4308)
D (2 rolls) Covering Top Flite MonoKote
D Optional: Wire Tail Gear Assembly (GPMQ1900)
D 1" Tail Wheel (GPMQ4241)
D (2) 3/32" Wheel Collar (GPMQ4302)
D Pilot 1-1/2" Scale
D Great Planes Easy Sport Trim Graphics
(GPMQ0405)
Accessories Required to Complete Your Easy Sport 60
D 2-3/4" Spinner (GPMQ4525)
D 14oz Fuel Tank (GPMQ4106)
D (3) 3" Wheels (GPMQ4224)
D 3/16" Wheel Collars (6 ea ) (GPMQ4308)
D (3 rolls) Covering Top Flite MonoKote recommended
D Optional: Wire Tail Gear Assembly (GPMQ1900)
D 1-1/2" Tail Wheel (GPMQ4243)
D (2) 3/32" Wheel Collar (GPMQ4302)
D Pilot 1-1/2" Scale
D String
D Building Square: (XACR7726)
D Building Triangle: (XACR7725)
D Straightedge With Scale
D Masking Tape
D Waxed Paper or Plastic Kitchen Wrap
D HobbyLite" Balsa Filler (HCAR3401)
D Petroleum Jelly
D Easy-Touch" Bar Sander and Sandpaper see the
following Expert Tip
D Dremel MultiPro'" or similar (Optional)
D 1/8" x 2" Brass Tube (Optional)
We recommend Great Planes Pro CA and Epoxy
adhesives
D 2oz. CA (Thin) (GPMR6003)
D 2oz. CA+ (Medium) (GPMR6009)
D 1oz. CA- (Thick) (GPMR6014)
D 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
D 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
D Hand or Electric Drill
D
Drill Bits.
D Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
D Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
D Hobby Saw (XACR1435)
D #1 Hobby Knife (XACR4305)
D #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100qty.)
D Razor Plane (MASR1510)
D Pliers
D Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat Blade)
D T-Pins: short (HCAR5100) and long (HCAR5200)
D
1/16"
D
5/64"
D 1/8"
D
7/64"
D
9/64"
5/32"
D 3/16"
D
1/4"
D 15/64"
D 19/64"
To build the Easy Sport, you will need a 15" x 48"
(minimum size) flat surface Because your model will be
no straighter than this surface, it is critical that it is
truly flat
The surface of the work area should be of a
material that you can push pins into, such as a piece of
7
ceiling tile Before beginning to build, use a straight edge
to check fore and aft, side to side and diagonally for
warps Shim your board until it is exactly flat.
D 1 Unroll the plan sheet Reroll the plan inside out to
make it lie flat.
D 2 Remove all parts from the box As you do,
determine the name of each part by comparing it with
the plans and the parts list included with this kit Using a
felt tip or ball point pen, write the part name or size on
each piece to avoid confusion later Use the die-cut
patterns shown on pages 5 and 6 to identify the die-cut
parts and mark them before removing them from the
sheet Save all scraps If any of the die-cut parts are
difficult to punch out, do not force them' Instead, cut
around the parts with a hobby knife After punching out
the die-cut parts use your bar sander to lightly sand
the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities
D 3 As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware.
D 2 Using a razor saw, cut pieces of 5/16" x 3/4" and
5/16" x 1/2" balsa (from the 30" sticks) to make the
rudder framework. Working right on the plan, pin these
parts in place and glue them together using thin CA glue
D 1 Tape the fuselage plan down to your flat work
surface Tape a piece of waxed paper over the fin and
rudder portion of the plan
D 3 From the 5/16" x 1/2" x 30" sticks, cut braces to fit
between the rudder framework and glue them in place
Note: It is not necessary to get these braces in the
exact position shown on the plan If you re building the
Easy Sport 40, cut a 1" piece from the 5/16" x 3/4"
balsa stick If you are building the Easy Sport 60, cut a
1-1/4" piece from the 5/16" x 3/4" balsa stick From this
small piece cut the triangular gusset for the front bottom
corner of the rudder.
D 4 Remove the rudder from your building surface
Examine and add thick CA glue to any open joints Then
use your sanding block with medium (150-grit) sandpaper
to sand both sides of the rudder framework smooth
D 5 Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges
of the rudder (this will help to maintain symmetry
when sanding).
8
D 6 Using a sanding block and medium (150-grit)
sandpaper, sand the leading edge to a "V-shape" as
shown on the plan Sand the bottom of the rudder to the
shape as shown on the plans Sand the trailing edges,
bottom edges and top to a rounded shape
At this point, you should have given some thought to the
landing gear configuration you would like to use If you
have decided to build your Easy Sport as a taildragger,
follow the simple instructions outlined in the box below.
On the other hand, if you would prefer your Easy Sport
with a conventional tricycle landing gear, skip the box
and continue construction at Build The Fin.
D 1 In the same manner as the rudder, build the fin
using the 5/16" x 3/4" and 5/16" x 1/2" balsa sticks
D 2 Carefully draw a centerline on the leading and
trailing edges of the fin.
D 3 Sand (only) the leading edge to a round shape.
NOTE: The trailing edge and bottom edge must not be
rounded or V-shaped Instead, just sand these edges
flat and square Do not sand the top edge at this time.
D 1 Tape waxed paper over the separate stabilizer
drawing on the fuse plan Pin the shaped balsa stab
joiner in place directly over the plans Then, in the same
manner as the rudder, cut balsa pieces and build the
stab framework.
D 1 Check the plans and mark the location of the
optional tailgear on the rudder Drill a 7/64" hole in the
rudder (the hole is drilled slightly oversize to allow for
positioning, and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve"
around the wire) Then groove the rudder leading edge
to accept the tailgear wire HINT: Using a hobby knife,
sharpen the inside of one end of a 1/8" diameter brass
tube, and use it to cut the groove in the leading edge
of the rudder.
D 2 Shape the stab tips to the shape as shown on
the plan.
D 3 Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of
the stabilizer
D 4 Sand the leading edge and tip to a round shape.
NOTE: The trailing edge must not be rounded or
V-shaped Instead, just sand this edge flat and square.
9
D 1 In the same manner as the rudder, build each
elevator using the 5/16" x 3/4" and 5/16" x 1/2"
balsa sticks
D 2. Shape the elevator tips to the shape as shown on
the plan.
D 3. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges
of the elevators.
D 4. Sand the leading edge to a "V-shape Sand the
trailing edge and the outside edge of the tip to a round
shape as shown on the plans.
D 1 Temporarily pin the elevators and stab over their
respective drawings on the plan
D 6 Trial fit the joiner wire into the elevators Then
glue it in using 6-minute or 30-mmute epoxy When
gluing, lay the elevators on a flat surface, with the
leading edges along a straightedge to insure perfect
alignment Cover the top of the joined elevators with a
sheet of waxed paper Then lay a flat, heavy object on
top A telephone book works well This will insure a true,
flat elevator assembly when the epoxy cures
(Do not glue)
D 1. Cut 18 hinges (3/4" x 1") from the 2" x 9" CA hinge
strip Trim the corners at a 45 degree angle to make
insertion easier.
D 2. Lay the 1/8" wire elevator joiner in place on the
elevators and mark its outline using a fine point felt-tip pen
D 3 Accurately drill holes in the elevators for the 1/8"
wire joiner Begin by drilling a 1/16" or 5/64" pilot hole
Then drill the final hole to a depth of 7/8" with a 9/64"
drill bit (The hole is drilled slightly oversize to allow for
positioning, and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve" around
the wire)
D 4 Use the sharpened 1/8" diameter brass tube or a
drill bit to cut a groove in the leading edge of the
elevators to accept the joiner wire.
D 5 Roughen the joiner wire with coarse sandpaper,
then clean the wire thoroughly with alcohol to remove
any oily residue.
D 2 Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE
and transfer the marks to the fin Place the elevators
against the stab TE and transfer the marks to the stab.
CAUTION: You must use extreme care when
cutting hinge slots with a hobby knife, to avoid
cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks while you
are pushing on the knife, the blade could go into
your hand before you know it! A good precaution
is to wear leather gloves while performing the
following steps, and always cut away from
yourself.
D 3. Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines
which you previously drew, using a hobby knife or a
slotting fork and slotting hook (The recommended hinge
slotting technique is explained on the next page.)
10
INSTALLING CA HINGES
The hinge material supplied in this kit consists of a 3-layer
lamination of mylar and polyester It is specially made for
the purpose of hinging model airplane control surfaces
Properly installed, this type of hinge provides the best
combination of strength, durability and ease of installation
We trust even our best show models to these hinges, but
it is essential to install them correctly Please read the
following instructions and follow them carefully to obtain
the best results These instructions may be used to
effectively install any of the various brands of CA hinges.
power or hand drill Drilling the hole will twist some of the
wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to insert the
hinge, so you should reinsert the knife blade, working it
back and forth a few times to clean out the slot.
The most common mistake made by modelers when
installing this type of hinge is not applying a sufficient
amount of glue to fully secure the hinge over its entire
surface area, or, the hinge slots are very tight, restricting
the flow of CA to the back of the hinges This results in
hinges that are only "tack glued" approximately 1/8" to 1/4"
into the hinge slots. The following technique has been
developed to help ensure thorough and secure gluing.
A. Cut the hinge slot using a #11 blade in a standard #1
knife handle The CA hinges provided have a thickness
that fits this type of slot very well Trial fit the hinge into the
slot If the hinge does not slide in easily, work the knife
blade back and forth in the slot a few times to provide
more clearance (it is really the back edge of the blade
that does the work here in widening the slot)
Note: When hinging the rudder and elevator which use
torque rods, use a toothpick to force epoxy down the hole
drilled for the torque rod In the case of the rudder, be
sure not to let glue get into the bearing tube.
C Insert the hinges and install the control surface Verify
the left-right positioning of the control surface and close
up the hinge gap to 1/32" or less It is best to leave a very
slight hinge gap, rather than closing it up tight, to help
prevent the CA from wicking along the hinge line Make
sure the control surface will deflect to the recommended
throws without binding If you have cut your hinge slots
too deep, the hinges may slide in too far, leaving only a
small portion of the hinge in the control surface To avoid
this, you may insert a small pin through the center of
each hinge before installing This pin will keep the hinge
centered while installing the control surface Remove the
pins before proceeding
ASSEMBLE THEN APPLY 6 DROPS
OF THIN CA TO CENTER
OF HINGE, ON BOTH SIDES
B. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep, In the center of the
hinge slot. If you use a Dremel MultiPro for this task, it
will result in a cleaner hole than if you use a slower speed
D 4 Apply 6 drops of thin CA adhesive to both sides of
each hinge on the elevators and rudder only - not the
ailerons yet. Allow a few seconds between drops for ihe
CA to wick into the slot Note that the small "tunnels you
created by drilling the 3/32" holes allow the CA to freely
travel in to the entire surface of the hinge, producing an
extremely secure bond
11
D 4 Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the rudder
and elevators in place on the fin and stab Do not glue
the hinges until after you have covered the model.
Before assembling the wing there are a few preliminary
assemblies that must be made.
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
STRAIGHT WING
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
WARPED WING
D 1 Before using the basswood spars examine them
carefully for possible imperfections Look for knots soft
spots, diagonal grain and any other imperfections If
possible, position each spar so the imperfections (if any)
are on the outer half of the wing panel (towards the tip)
where they will be less affected by high stress If the
spars are warped slightly, try to "balance them out" by
installing the warped spars in opposite directions (see
sketch) NOTICE: If you feel that any of the wing parts
are unusable due to severe warps or other defects, give
us a call and we'll replace the parts.
D 1 Carefully punch out all the die-cut balsa wing ribs
Sand the edges slightly to remove any die cutting
irregularities and arrange them into stacks of the same
kind of ribs.
D D 2 Locate the two #3 and #4 ribs Center one #3
rib on one #4 rib using the lightening holes as a
reference There will be a 3/32" offset between the
edges of rib #3 and #4 when properly aligned
NOTE: The embossed "T" on both ribs should face the
same direction While holding in the above position, glue
these two pieces together with thin CA NOTE: The ribs
are not symmetrical, so be sure to make a right and left
assembly
D 3 Locate the two 1A rib sections Take care to align
these ribs using the notches as references Glue the 1A
ribs together with thin CA for the Easy Sport 40 Glue
the 1A ribs together with 6-minute epoxy for the
Easy Sport 60
D 2 Glue a 1/4" x 3/8" x 9-78" (1/4" x 1/2" x 10" for the
Easy Sport 60) basswood spar doubler to a 1/4" x 3/8"
x 30" (1/4" x 1/2" x 32" for the Easy Sport 60) basswood
main spar with medium CA as shown Sand the edges
of the spars to remove any excess glue and to make the
edges uniform Make four spar assemblies Refer to the
cross-section for orientation
D 4 Locate and align the two 1C ribs as described
above and glue them together with thin CA
12
D D 2. Lay one of the 3/32" x 1-3/4" x 30" (3/32" x 2" x
32" for the Easy Sport 60) balsa TE sheets on the wing
plan, lining it up with the outside edge of the tip rib. Pin
in place. Any excess balsa will extend beyond the wing
centerline.
D D The shaped and notched wing leading edges (LE)
and trailing edges (TE) are fastened together by thin
strips of balsa. Separate them by cutting with a hobby
knife, as shown in the sketch.
D Locate both die-cut 1/8" ply leading edge joiners
(if necessary, refer to the die-cut patterns on page 6).
Drill a 1/8" hole at the punch mark. Then, follow through
again with a 1/4" drill.
READ THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN BUILDING THE
WING PANELS: It is very important that you build a
straight wing with no warps or twists or you will get some
flying characteristics you didn't expect' Be very careful
when you align the ribs, spars, leading edges, trailing
edges and sheeting in the following steps. All of these
parts should be in their correct positions before you glue
them in place. Hold or pin the parts in place, then glue.
The following instructions will guide you through the
building of a straight, warp-free wing.
NOTE: You will build the right wing panel first (steps 1
through 17). Then follow steps 2 through 16 again to
build the left wing panel.
VERY IMPORTANT: The ribs are stamped with a "T"
which always denotes the top of the rib.
D 1. Tape the wing plan to your flat building surface so
that the Right Wing Panel is facing you. Tape a sheet
of waxed paper or plastic kitchen wrap over the right
wing panel drawing.
D D 3. Place a basswood main spar on the plan,
lining up the outboard end of the spar doubler with the
plan. The main spar will extend beyond the root and tip.
This will be trimmed off later. Do not pin this spar down
to the plan - just use pieces of masking tape on the
ends, to prevent it from moving.
D D 4. Place the #5, #6 and #7 ribs (#4, #5 and #6
ribs for the Easy Sport 60) onto the main spar.
Remember: The stamped "T" denotes the top of the rib.
D D 5. Now, place one of the shaped and notched
balsa TE'S on the TE sheet (the end with the closely
spaced notches must be at the wing root). Note: The TE
is not symmetrical - refer to the cross-section for proper
orientation. Work the TE onto the back of the ribs
starting at rib #7 and working towards rib #5 (start at rib
#6 and work toward rib # 4 on the Easy Sport 60). The
TE sheet may overhang the shaped and notched TE
slightly. This is not a major concern because any excess
will be sanded off later. Make sure that ribs are inserted
all the way into the TE notches and touching the TE
sheet. Glue the shaped TE and ribs to the TE sheet with
thin CA.
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NOTE: Do not be too concerned if the ribs do not line up
exactly with the plan. Sometimes the humidity will cause
the plan to expand or contract. Just remember to line up
the leading edge, trailing edge and ribs with the outside
edge of rib #7 (rib #6 on the Easy Sport 60). Let the
pre-cut notches take care of the spacing.
D D 6. Place the shaped and notched LE on the front of
the ribs. Once again, the end with the closely spaced
notches must face the wing root. Center the LE vertically
on the ribs, so the top and bottom edges of the ribs are
flush with the shaped LE. When certain that the shaped LE
is centered and in position, glue it to the ribs with thin CA.
D D 8. Insert the upper main spar and a 3/16" x 3/16" x
30" balsa front spar (3/16" x 3/16" x 32" basswood
front spar on the Easy Sport 60) into the notches in the
tops of the ribs. The upper main spar should be aligned
directly over the lower main spar. The upper front spar
should be flush with the outer edge of rib #7 (rib #6 on
the Easy Sport 60). Do not trim off any excess material
from the main or front spars yet.
D D 9. Make sure all ribs are vertical (90 degrees to
the work surface), that the spars are lined up and that all
parts are properly aligned. Glue the ribs to the upper,
lower and front spars with thin CA.
D D 7. Put ribs #2, #3 and #4 in place on the main
spar. Note that the spar notches are cut extra wide to
allow for the wing joiners. Refer to the sketch and note
that it is most important to center the rib fore and aft,
providing equal space in front of and behind the spar.
Insert the ribs into their notches in the shaped LE and
TE. Center the ribs vertically on the LE (rib #2 will have
a 3/32" space on top and bottom when properly
centered). Glue both ribs to the shaped LE, TE sheet
and shaped TE with thin CA.
D D 10. With medium CA, glue the pre-cut 1/16" x
1-3/4" x 3-3/8" (3/32" x 2" x 3" on the Easy Sport 60)
balsa shear webs to the back of the main spars from rib
#5 thru #7 (rib #4 thru #6 on the Easy Sport 60) as
shown on the plans. It is not necessary for the webs to
be glued to the ribs.
D D 11. Position one of the TE sheets on top of the
shaped TE so one end is even with the joint between
ribs #3-4 and glue it in place. NOTE: To get a good glue
joint you should properly position the TE sheeting and
apply thin CA where it joins each rib. Second, apply thin
CA along the rear edge where the sheeting meets the
small edge of the shaped TE. Finally, unpin and remove
the wing from the building surface. Stand the wing up so
the LE is up and the TE is down and drip a couple of
drops of thin CA into the joint where the sheeting meets
the wide edge of the tapered TE.
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D D 12. Turn the wing panel upside down and install a
front spar on the bottom of the wing. Glue in place with
thin CA.
D D 13. Turn the wing right side up and glue the #8 ribs
in place with medium CA. Use the plan as a guide for
positioning the ribs.
D D 14. Now, go over the entire wing panel making
sure all joints are securely glued. Add thin and/or thick
CA glue where necessary. Make sure that you double
glue the shear webs with medium CA.
NOTE: Make sure that the DG is facing the proper
direction. Remove the wing from the building surface
and using a razor saw, carefully cut off all excess
sheeting, spars, LE and TE even with the lines you just
drew. Now, sand the ends of the parts you just trimmed
until they are smooth and flush with the lines.
D 17. Turn the wing plan around so the Left Wing
Panel is facing you. Cover it with waxed paper and build
the left wing panel in the same manner as the right
panel, following steps 2-16.
D D 15. Using a razor saw, carefully cut off all excess
sheeting, spars, LE and TE even with the outboard edge
of rib #7 (rib #6 on the Easy Sport 60). Now, sand the
ends flush with the face of the rib.
D 1. Locate the two 1/16" (1/8" on the Easy Sport 60)
birch ply wing joiners. Before you remove them from
the die-cut sheet, draw a line connecting the two punch
marks using a pencil and straightedge. Be sure to mark
both sides.
D 2. Starting with the right wing panel, test fit the wing
joiners to the front and rear of the main spar. The wing
joiners must slide far enough so that the pencil marks
line up with the ends of the spar.
D D 16. Temporarily pin the wing half back over the plan.
On the Easy Sport 40, place the dihedral gauge (DG) on
the centerline as shown and mark the LE, front spars,
main spars, TE sheeting and TE. On the Easy Sport 60,
place the dihedral gauge on the centerline as shown and
mark the front spars, main spars, TE sheeting and TE.
Mark the LE at the side of rib #1A.
NOTE: You may need to adjust the pre-cut slots to
provide enough clearance for the wing joiner to slide.
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D 3. Drill a 1/8" hole at the punch mark on rib #1A.
D 4. Center rib #1A against the LE and on the line drawn
on the 1/8" ply wing joiner. Make sure that rib #1A is
centered between the edges of the ply wing joiner. Using
the hole through rib #1A as a guide, drill a 1/8" hole,
perpendicular to rib #1A, 5/8" deep into the LE.
NOTE: Take your time to make sure that this procedure
is done accurately. A little extra work and attention to
detail here will insure a strong, straight wing.
D 7. IMPORTANT: Do not use epoxy with a working
time of less than 30 minutes for this step! Place
waxed paper on the work surface and mix up some
epoxy. On the Easy Sport 40, apply it to the spar
joiners, spar ends and the ends of both leading and
trailing edges. On the Easy Sport 60, apply epoxy to the
spar joiners, spar ends, the ends of both leading and
trailing edges, the 1/8" hole in the leading edges and the
aft edge of rib #1 A where it contacts the ply wing joiner.
D 5. Starting at step 2, repeat for the left wing panel.
D 6. On the Easy Sport 60, align rib #1A on the right
wing panel and insert the 1/8" x 1" alignment dowel
through rib #1A and into the LE. At this point test fit the
left and right wing panels together "dry" (NO GLUE) on
the Easy Sport 40 and 60. With the center of the wing
resting on the work surface, block up both wing tips 1"
(1-7/64" on the Easy Sport 60) as measured from the
work surface to the bottom of rib #7 (rib #6 on the
Easy Sport 60). Check the fit of the LE, spars and TE to
make sure they meet up nicely without any gaps or
sweep in the wing.
On both the Easy Sport 40 and 60, slide the spar joiners
into the right wing panel first. Slide the left wing panel
into place and wipe off any excess epoxy. Immediately
proceed to the next step.
D 8. Block up the tips of both wing panels 1" on the
Easy Sport 40 (1-7/64" on the Easy Sport 60) as
measured from the work surface to the bottom of rib #7
(rib #6 on the Easy Sport 60). Carefully align the spars,
LE and TE of both wing panels. Clamp the spar joiners
to the spars and wipe off any excess epoxy with a paper
towel. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before disturbing
the wing and removing the clamps.
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D 9. Securely glue the remaining balsa shear webs to
the front and back sides of the spar joiners between ribs
#4 and #5 (ribs #2 and #3 for Easy Sport 60). Trim the
shear webs so that they do not protrude above or below
the spar joiner where they will interfere with the center
sheeting applied in a later step.
D 10. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply TE Brace in place
between the #2 ribs as shown on the plan.
If you are building the Easy Sport 60, skip to step 6
under Install the center ribs and sheeting.
D 1. Mark the center of the front LE joint with a pencil.
Vertically center the remaining LE joiner on the mark
and tack-glue in place. Then. using both LE joiners as
guides, drill through the front LE joiner, shaped LE and
back LE joiner with a 1/4" drill. Remove only the LE
joiner that is tack-glued to the front of the LE.
D 2. Round both ends of the pre-cut, 3" long wing
dowel with medium (150-grit) sandpaper.
D 11. With a pencil, mark the back of the LE center
joint: 3/32" and 3/8" down from the top of the LE. Also,
3/32" up from the bottom of the LE. See photo.
D 12. Center a die-cut 1/8" ply leading edge joiner on
the back of the LE center joint. Use the marks drawn in
the previous step to aid in alignment. Glue in place with
thin CA.
D 3. Install the previously laminated 1A ribs as shown
on the plans (do not glue yet.) Slide the wing dowel
through the LE and all the way into the slot in rib 1A.
D 4. Align the 1A ribs and the wing dowel so that the
wing dowel is flush with the outside edges of the slot in
1A. Glue 1A to the LE and forward spar joiner with
medium CA. Be careful not to glue in the wing dowel.
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