Great Planes GPMA0119 User Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great

Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

P.O. Box 788 UrbanaJL 61801 [phone]

PT60P03 2/95 V.1

Entire Contents © Copyright 1995

PRECAUTIONS...............................................................2

INTRODUCTION..............................................................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE.......................................3

Engine selection..............................................................3

Wing configuration ..........................................................3

PREPARATIONS .............................................................3

Other items required

.......................................................3

Setting up shop ...............................................................3

Suggested supplies and tools.........................................4

Common abbreviations...................................................5

Types of wood .................................................................5

Metric conversions..........................................................5

The what and how of adhesives......................................5

Get ready to build............................................................6

Die-Cut

Patterns.........................................................

7&8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES..........................................9

Build the stabilizer and fin ...............................................9

Hinge the elevator and rudder.......................................10

BUILD THE FUSELAGE.................................................11

Preparation....................................................................11

Assemble the major fuse parts......................................13

Install

the main landing

gear.........................................16

Install the engine and fuel tank .....................................17

Attach the stab and fin...................................................19

BUILD THE WING ..........................................................20

Preparation....................................................................20

Assemble wing panels ..................................................21

Join the wing panels......................................................23

Sheet the wing ..............................................................25

Install the aileron servo tray ..........................................27

Wing completion............................................................28

FINISHING......................................................................30

Final sanding.................................................................30

Fuel proofing.................................................................31

Balance the airplane laterally........................................31

Cover the structure........................................................31

Recommended covering sequence...............................32

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS.................................32

Install the control surfaces ............................................32

Install landing gear........................................................32

Preliminary Radio installation........................................33

Balance your model ......................................................35

Final radio hook-up

.......................................................36

Aileron lock for 3-channel operation..............................38

Control surface throws ..................................................39

Ground stance...............................................................40

Pre-flight........................................................................41

Engine safety precautions.............................................41

AMA safety code ...........................................................42

FLYING..........................................................................42

Taxiing..........................................................................43

Takeoff...........................................................................43

Flying............................................................................43

Landing .........................................................................44

Some modeling terms and trivia....................................44

TWO-VIEW

DRAWING...................................................48

Your PT-60 is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working

model that functions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the PT-60, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,
knowledgeable help with assembly and during your

first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model

before you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model

Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them,
instructor training programs and insured newcomer training
are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone

number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

[phone]
[phone]

Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes PT-60, the

Perfect Trainer, for possibly your first step into the exciting
world of R/C flying. We are sure that you will find a great
deal of modeling satisfaction while building and flying this
new version of the classic trainer that has helped tens of
thousands of newcomers to successfully get off the ground
and into the sky.

The PT family of trainers has been around since 1986.
As just about any old pro will tell you, no other trainer
model offers so many of the important features most
needed by a novice. While R/C flying can be learned by
practically anyone, it does require a fair amount of eye­hand coordination-a skill that can only be learned by
quality "stick time." This is where the PTs shine. They are
all designed to be rugged, stable, self-recovering and able
to fly slowly enough to allow you time to think about your
next maneuver.

For your tricky first flights, altitude is your friend. Our
newest member of the family, the PT-60, has a relatively
large 71" wingspan so it is easy to see, even when flying a
few hundred feet above the ground. Once a PT has been
trimmed for straight and level flight (hopefully by an
experienced pilot) you will be able to get out of most bad
situations by simply letting go of the sticks on your

transmitter. The PT will normally level its own wings and
resume stable flight within 50-100 feet. This feature alone
has helped many student pilots master the basics in the
shortest possible time.

2

The PT-60 is designed for either 3 or 4 channel
operation By this we mean that you can start with just
rudder, elevator and throttle control, then add a fourth servo
for the ailerons when you want to refine your skills The
ailerons are designed to be locked in the neutral position
after the wing is assembled, but can be activated with only a
few minutes of work and an additional servo We
recommend the three channel setup for beginners Due to
the dihedral (upward angle of the wing) built into the wing
and generous rudder size, the turn and bank response is
almost identical to using ailerons When you are ready to
move up to advanced maneuvers such as crosswind
landings and basic aerobatics, you will need to hook up
the ailerons

If you are already an experienced pilot who is just
looking for a sport model for those lazy summer afternoons,
we provide the necessary information to build the wing with
less dihedral and less washout to allow more responsive
flight characteristics

Due to its rugged construction and light wing loading,
the PT-60 can be powered by a wide range of engines We
flew our prototype with several engines, from a high
performance 61 two-stroke to a 48 four-stroke Every
engine we tried exhibited exceptionally fine performance for
a trainer.

We have written this instruction manual with the novice
in mind and have tried to include enough information,
expert tips and practical suggestions to help get you on the
right track (or should we say runway) from the start Our
goal is for you to experience the fun and satisfaction that
thousands of modelers the world over enjoy, without the
mistakes that have spoiled the hobby for some

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone] and we'll be
glad to help. If you are calling for replacement parts,
please look up the part numbers and the kit
identification number (stamped on the end of the
carton) and have them ready when calling.

D 4 Channel radio with 3 or 4 servos
D Engine 45 - 61 2-stroke

48 - 70 4-stroke

D Propeller (Top Flite Power Point") Refer to your

engine's instructions for proper size
D 12 oz Fuel tank (Great Planes GPMQ4105)
D 12" Medium fuel tubing (Great Planes GPMQ4131)
D (2) 3" Wheels - mains (Great Planes GPMQ4225)
D (1) 2-3/4" Wheel - nose (Great Planes GPMQ4224)
D (6) 3/16" Wheel collars (Great Planes GPMQ4308)
D 2-3/4" Spinner (Great Planes GPMQ4525)
D (3) Rolls covering film (Top Flite MonoKote )
D 1/2" Latex foam rubber padding (Hobbico®

HCAQ1050)
D 1/16" Foam wing seating tape (Great Planes

GPMQ4422)

D #64 Rubber bands - for optional wing mounting

(Hobbico HCAQ2020)

If this is your first model there are a few necessary supplies
and tools that you should gather before going any further
The single most important item that is required for any

modeling project is a flat work surface No, the kitchen
table is not a good idea This is closely followed by a space

3

where you can work, leave stuff out, make a mess, spill
glue and paint without worry, and has adequate ventilation.

Hey, the garage sounds like a good place!

A workbench can be as simple as a solid flat table or a
bench made from some two-by-fours and a solid core door.
Hollow core interior doors work fine, but the cheaper ones
are prone to warping.

the hobby you will probably want to add a few power tools
such as a Dremel® Moto-tool®, belt sander and a scroll saw,
but in the case of the PT-60 everything you need is
listed below.

Here is a suggested approach for building an
inexpensive workbench. You will need (7) 6' two-by-fours of

good quality pine or fir, a 30" x 82" door, some 16d nails, a

hand saw and a hammer.

WORKBENCH FRAME

Assemble the workbench as follows:

1) Cut one 2x4 into three sections, two 24" long and one

21" long.

2) Nail the 24" pieces to the two ends of two straight 6'
pieces to make the frame for the top. Nail the 21" piece
in between the two 6' pieces across the center of the frame.

3) Cut two two-by-fours in half to make four 36" legs. Nail
(or bolt) the four legs to the frame with the 2" side facing

the long sides of the frame.

4) Cut two 21" side rails from one of the remaining boards.
Nail the two boards to the sides of each pair of legs.

5) Nail the last 6' board to the front side of the back legs,
level with the two side pieces. (1x3 Cross braces may

be nailed to the back legs for more rigidity.)

6) Center the door on the frame and either glue or use

double-sided, foam back sticky tape to hold it in position.

We recommended Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy.

D 2 oz. CA adhesive-Thin (Great Planes GPMR6003)
D 2 oz. CA+ adhesive-Medium (Great Planes

GPMR6009)

D 1 oz. CA- adhesive-Thick (Great Planes

GPMR6014)
D 6-Minute Epoxy (Great Planes GPMR6045)
D 30-Minute Epoxy (Great Planes GPMR6047)
D Epoxy brushes (Great Planes GPMR8060)
D Epoxy mixing Sticks (Great Planes GPMR8055)
D CA Applicator tips (Hobbico HCAR3780)
D Hand or electric drill
D Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16",

13/64", 1/4", 17/64", 5/16"
D Sealing iron (Top Flite)

D Heat gun (Top Flite)
D Hobby saw (X-acto® Razor Saw)
D Hobby knife, #11 Blades
D Pliers
D Wire cutters
D Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat blade)
D Round file (or similar)
D T-Pins
D String
D Straightedge with scale
D Masking tape (required for construction)
D Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
D T-Bar sanding block (or similar)
D Waxed paper
D Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico

HobbyLite'"

D IsopropyI rubbing alcohol (70%)
D Drafting triangle or carpenters square
D Dremel Moto-Tool® or similar (optional)

You will need to cover your work surface with
something you can push pins into. The back side of a 2' x 4'
sheet of ceiling tile makes a great building surface, or if you
want to cover a larger area you can buy a 4' x 8' sheet of
Celotex® insulation board from your local building
supply store.

Most of the tools listed below can probably be found
around the house. A few items like a razor saw, hobby
knife, sealing iron, heat gun, and glues can be purchased
from your local hobby dealer. As you get more involved with

On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders,
equipped with #50, #80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper.
This setup is all that is required for almost any sanding
task. Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa for
sanding hard to reach spots. We also keep some
#320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.

4

Cyanoacrylate or CA glue has changed the way models

are built more than any other advance in modeling
technology. In the good ol' days, model cement like
Ambroid, Duco, Comet, and Sigment were the glues of
choice. They all had a strong odor that could cause
dizziness, dried slowly (compared to CA) and became
brittle with age. CA, on the other hand, is stronger, works
almost instantly, and is bottled in three different viscosities
(thicknesses). CA is used for most glue joints, except where
epoxy is specified. CA does emit rather strong fumes (some
say it's like tear gas) as it cures, so rule number one is to

work in a well ventilated area. All CA glues work best if
the joints are smooth and fit well.

Thin CA is also known simply as CA.

This is the instant variety, used for most

initial assembly and tack gluing. Thin CA

is usually "wicked" into a tightly fitting
joint by putting a few drops on the seam,
then holding the parts together while the
CA penetrates and bonds the parts.
When gluing plywood or hardwood, a

mist of accelerator (see next page) will

help the CA work a little better.

Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal stabilizer
Fin = Vertical fin

LE = Leading edge (front)
TE = Trailing edge (rear)
LG = Landing gear

Ply = Plywood
" = Inches

Balsa Basswood Plywood

CA+ is also known as medium or gap
filling CA. CA+ is used for surface

gluing, filling small gaps between poorly
matched parts, and for general purpose
applications. It cures slower than thin CA,
allowing you to apply a bead to two or
three parts before assembly. Curing time
without accelerator is 20-30 seconds.

CA- or thick CA is used when extra
positioning time is needed. CA- is a great
gap filler and is also used to make fillets
when a little extra strength is required.
Curing time is about 1-2 minutes.

5

Accelerator is a liquid chemical that

comes in a spray bottle for use in
speeding up the cure time of all CA
types. It should be misted on, not
sprayed heavily on the joint. Accelerator
may cause exposed CA to bubble and
sometimes change color. A drawback to
accelerator is that the CA cures before it
has time to fully penetrate the wood, so
it should only be used sparingly-when

absolutely necessary.

30-minute epoxy is used for
extra strength (because it
can penetrate longer) and
where several parts must be
aligned and checked before it
cures. Working time is about
25 minutes, handling time
2 hours, and it's fully cured in
8 hours.

Great Planes Pro Wood Glue is an Aliphatic resin glue
that works well on all types of wood. It is non-toxic, virtually
odorless, and dries clear. Some people are sensitive to the
fumes and sanding dust caused by CA, so this is a good
alternative for general modeling use. Its only drawback is
that it is slow to cure, requiring the parts to be securely
clamped, pinned or taped while the glue dries.

Epoxy

Great Planes has two Epoxy formulations available for the

modeler. Both offer exceptional strength and convenient
working times. Use epoxy when the joint requires
exceptional strength, such as when installing the firewall,
when joining the wing panels, and when installing wing
hold-down blocks. As with most epoxies, you mix equal
parts of resin and hardener, stir well, then apply a thin film
to each part. Parts should be clamped, pinned, taped or
weighted in place until fully cured. Before the epoxy cures,
clean off any excess with a paper towel. A word of caution
about mixing epoxy-don't use extra hardener in the
hopes of making the mixture harder or work faster. Just
about all epoxies work best with exactly a 50/50 mix. When
you increase the amount of hardener you run the risk of

causing the cured epoxy to become either brittle or

rubbery-neither being as strong as a properly mixed batch.

6-Minute epoxy is used
for simple, small gluing
appl icatio ns-where
elaborate alignment is not
required. Working time
(before it's too gooey to
use) is about 5 minutes,
handling time 15 minutes
and it's fully cured in about
1 hour.

Okay, you've got your work space ready, your tools are at
hand, and you know how to choose and use the right glue
for the job. Let's get started!

D 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plans inside out to

make them lie flat.

D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out
the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt tip or ball
point pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece
to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on
pages 7 and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before removing them from the sheet. Save all scraps. If
any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not
force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby
knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar
or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any
die-cutting irregularities.

D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware.

Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store your

parts as you sort, identify and separate them into

sub-assemblies.

6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

8

Work on a flat surface over the plans covered with waxed
paper. Refer to the plans to identify the parts and
their locations.

D 1. Locate the shaped 5/16" balsa forward, middle and
aft stab parts. Check their fit and sand the mating edges as
needed. Glue the three parts together by applying a light
bead of medium CA to the edges, then press the parts
together. Wipe off any excess from the surface before
it cures.

D 5. Temporarily join the 5/16" x 1-1/4" x 27" balsa
elevator to the stab and the 5/16" shaped rudder to the fin
with masking tape. Draw a centerline (see Expert Tip
below) around the outside edges of both assemblies. Use a
sanding block loaded with 150-grit sandpaper to round the
perimeter edges of both assemblies to match the plans. Do
not roundoff the bottom edge of the fin. Refer to the plans
for the exact shape. The centerline will help you to keep the
shape symmetrical.

D 2. Locate the shaped 5/16" balsa dorsal, forward and
aft fin parts. Check their fit and sand the mating edges as

needed. Work over the plans (don't forget the waxed
paper), then glue the three parts together with a thin bead
of medium CA. Wipe off any excess from the surface
before it cures.

D 3. Position the 5/16" x 5/16" x 3" balsa dorsal fin tab
stick over the plans under the dorsal fin, then mark its
location on the bottom edge of the dorsal fin. Glue the tab

to the dorsal fin with medium CA.

D 4. Sand the seams of the stab and fin smooth with

sharp, 220-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.

9

paper under the part to raise the mark to the same level
as the pen's point. If the pen is too low, raise it with
paper shims (or playing cards) to the right height.

C. Now, depending on which is shimmed (the part or the
pen), rotate the un-shimmed component around the
perimeter to draw the line.

the flow of CA to the back of the hinges. This results in
hinges that are only "tack glued" approximately 1/8" to

1/4" into the hinge slots. The following technique has been

developed to help ensure thorough and secure gluing.

D 6. With reference to the above sketch, cut 18 hinges

from the supplied 2" x 9" composite hinge material and cut
the corners as shown. You will need five hinges for the

elevator and four for the rudder. Store the remaining hinges

for use later during construction.

D 7. Separate the elevator and rudder from the stab and

fin. Draw a centerline on the TE of the stab and the LE of
the elevator. Do the same for the fin and rudder.

D 8. Use the plans as a guide to mark the locations of the
hinges on all tail components-fin, rudder, stab, and

elevator. Refer to the Expert Tip that follows, then cut

matching hinge slits in all four parts.

A. Cut the hinge slot using a #11 blade in a standard #1

knife handle. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow
slit at the hinge location. This first cut is to establish your
cut in the right place, so concentrate on staying on the
centerline and don't cut too deep! Make three of four

more cuts in the same line, going slightly deeper each
time. As you make these additional cuts, work on going
straight into the wood. Continue this process while

"wiggling" the knife handle forward and backward until
the blade has reached the proper depth for the hinge.

The hinge material supplied in this kit consists of a

3-layer lamination of mylar and polyester. It is specially

made for the purpose of hinging model airplane control
surfaces. Properly installed, this type of hinge provides
the best combination of strength, durability and ease of
installation. We trust even our best show models to
these hinges, but it is essential to install them
correctly. Please read the following instructions and
follow them carefully to obtain the best results. These
instructions may be used to effectively install any of the

various brands of CA hinges.

The most common mistake made by modelers when
installing this type of hinge is not applying a sufficient
amount of glue to fully secure the hinge over its entire

surface area; or, the hinge slots are very tight, restricting

B. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep, in the center of the
hinge slot. If you use a Dremel Moto-Tool® for this task, it

will result in a cleaner hole than if you use a slower speed

power or hand drill. Drilling the hole will twist some of the

wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to insert the

hinge, so you should reinsert the knife blade, working it
back and forth a few times to clean out the slot.

C. Trial fit the hinges into the slots and temporarily

attach the control surface, to verify the fit and operation.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN PLACE
UNTIL THE MODEL IS COVERED! YOU WILL BE

INSTRUCTED WHEN TO GLUE THE HINGES.

10

D. Insert the hinges and install the control surface.
Verify the left-right positioning of the control surface, and
close up the hinge gap to 1/32" or less. It is best to leave
a very slight hinge gap, rather than closing it up tight, to

help prevent the CA from wicking along the hinge line.

Make sure the control surface will deflect to the

recommended throws without binding. If you have cut
your hinge slots too deep, the hinges may slide in too
far, leaving only a small portion of the hinge in the

control surface. To avoid this, you may insert a small

pin through the center of each hinge, before installing.
This pin will keep the hinge centered while installing the
control surface. Remove the pins before proceeding.

D 1. Lightly sand the edges of the three die-cut 1/8" balsa

fuse side pieces. Test fit the upper, lower and aft sections

as shown in the photo. When satisfied with the tit, make a
fuse side using thin CA to glue the three parts together over
waxed paper covered plans. Make a second fuse side in the

same manner. Use fresh, 220-grit sandpaper on a sanding

block to go over all joints to make sure they are smooth.

D 9. Sand the LE of the elevator and rudder to a "V"
shape as shown on the plans, but leave the TE of the stab

and fin squared off.

D 10. Test fit the elevator and rudder.

Congratulations! You made it through the first stage and
should be proud of yourself. You should also have learned
a few "tricks of the trade" as used by the guys that
designed this kit. Remember, all us modelers are just

"plane folks" and we like to help where we can...

D 2. Examine the two fuse sides for blemishes, then
position them on your workbench exactly as shown in the
photo, with the "bad" sides facing up if possible. You need to
build a right and a left side so be sure that the sides are
mirrored as you look at them. Mark the inside surfaces with
"right" and "left."

D 3. Lightly sand the edges of the die-cut 1/8" ply upper
and lower fuse doublers (See the Die-Cut patterns on

page 7.) Drill a 1/16" hole at each of the punch marks on all
the fuse doubler parts. These holes allow CA to wick into
the center portions of the doublers when you glue them to
the fuse sides.

D 4. Align the top edge of the top doubler with the top of
the fuse side at the wing saddle. Slide it back and forth

until the front edge of the windshield and rear end are

aligned as shown in the photo. The balsa side behind the
wing saddle protrudes above the doubler by 1/8". Take
your time as this is a crucial step in building a straight fuse.
When the doubler is positioned, wick thin CA between the

doubler and the fuse side, around all edges and also
through the holes you drilled. While holding the doubler in

position, wipe away any excess CA with a tissue or paper
towel before it cures.

11

D 5. Align the lower doubler as shown, with the front
edge even with the front edge of the bottom notch and the
landing gear block notch flush with the "indented" location
on the fuse side. There should be 1/8" of balsa showing
below the doubler when it's properly aligned. Glue the
lower doubler in position with thin CA the same way as the
upper doubler.

D 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 to glue the doublers to the
second fuse side. Be sure to build a right and a left side.

(See the photo at Step 8.)

D 7. Align the die-cut 1/8" balsa aft fuse doubler even with
the rear end of the fuse. Position the doubler so that 1/8" of
the side sheet protrudes along the bottom edge and also

at the location of the stab as shown, then glue it in position
with thin CA. The pushrod exit slots are intentionally
staggered to allow the pushrods to angle smoothly through
the fuse. Repeat for the other side.

WING BOLT PLATE LAMINATION

D 10. Notice that two pieces of the wing bolt plate have
grain running in one direction while the third piece has grain
running opposite to the first two. The odd one goes in the
center of the sandwich. Mix up about 1/4 ounce of
30-minute epoxy, then glue the bolt plates together as
shown. This assembly must be held together with
clothespins or weighted down while the epoxy cures.

Skip step #8 if you will be using bolts to mount
your wing.

LI 8. If you will be installing the dowels for rubber band
wing attachment, you need to drill 5/16" holes through the
fuse sides at each die-cut location in the upper doublers.
Use a backup block of scrap wood under the fuse side to
prevent splitting the balsa as the drill bit goes through.

D 9. Locate the three die-cut 1/8" ply firewall parts F-1A,

F-1B and F-1C and the three die-cut 1/8" ply wing
bolt plates.

Note: you need the wing bolt plates for strength even if you

will be using rubber bands to attach the wing.

FIREWALL LAMINATIONS

(VIEWED FROM THE REAR)

D 11. Use the remaining 30-minute epoxy to glue F-1A,
F-1B and F-1C together. Be sure that F-1A (the one with
the punch marks) is on top of the stack with the punch
marks facing outward, that the locking tabs are aligned and

12

that F-1C is flush with the top edge of the assembly (see
sketch) This assembly must be held together with
clothespins or weighted down while the epoxy cures

D 12 Now you need to get out your drill and a 3/16" drill bit
to prepare the formers for pushrods Position each former
over a piece of scrap wood, then drill a 3/16" hole through
each of the punch marks in the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F-2
through F-5. Do not drill the F-1 assembly during this step

D 15 Insert a 5/16" wing dowel through the hole at the
top of F-2 Slide the die-cut 1/8" ply former F-2A onto the
dowel from the front of F-2 (that's the side with the
punched number) to check the fit Glue F-2A in position
with medium CA but don't glue the dowel to the formers
as it's only being used for alignment Carefully remove
the dowel before the CA cures

The top and bottom
3/16" holes are for the
standard 2-stroke
engine installation
These may have to
switch sides if using a
4-stroke engine (See
sketch at Step 2 on
page 34)

FIREWALL HOLE SIZES

D 13 Refer to the sketch, then drill 3/16" pushrod tube
holes through the firewall where indicated Change your bit
size to 7/32" (or better, 15/64") and drill the two fuel tube
holes through the top of the firewall Finally drill four 5/32"
holes in the firewall for the engine mount blind nuts

D 16 Examine your work Clean up any "fuzz" from
around the holes you drilled and also the edges of the
formers with a sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper

IMPORTANT: Position all of the formers with the embossed
numbers facing the front of the model

D 14 Insert a 6-32 blind nut into one of the holes in the
back of the firewall (F-1C) then tap it gently with a hammer

to start it into the hole Now you can either squeeze the

blind nut all the way into the firewall with a vise or finish
seating it with your hammer Put a drop of thin CA on the
outer edge of the flange to secure the blind nut in position

Repeat this operation for the other three blind nuts.

D 1 Test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply F-2 and F-3 formers in
position on the right fuse side When you test fit the
formers, be sure they line up with the bottom edge of the
lower doubler If you will be bolting on your wing the F-2A
former must face toward the front of the model If you will
not be bolting on your wing, former F-2A is not needed
Glue both parts to the fuse side as shown with medium CA
Hold the parts vertical with a triangle or carpenter's square
while the CA cures

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D 2. Glue the left fuse side to formers F-2 and F-3.

D 3. Insert the die-cut 1/8" ply tank floor between the fuse
sides. The tab at the rear end should fit into the notch at the
bottom of F-2 and the bottom of the tank floor should fit on
top of the lower fuse doublers. Squeeze the fuse sides to
the tank floor, then glue the tank floor in position with
medium CA.

D 6. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa aft fuse bottom
between the fuse sides. Temporarily hold the bottom in
position with a few strips of masking tape-do not glue yet!

D 7. Install the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F-4 and F-5 in the
notches of the fuse sides and bottom. Be sure that the
antenna tube hole is toward the bottom of the fuse. Use
more masking tape to hold the formers tightly in position.

When you are satisfied that everything looks square and
true, place the fuse on a length (at least 36") of waxed
paper, then wick thin CA into the joints (from the inside)
between the fuse sides, bottom, and the formers. Press
down on the framework as you do the gluing to hold the
frame square.

D 4. Fit the two die-cut 1/8" balsa forward fillers between
the tank floor and top doublers. The front edge of the filler
must be flush with the front edge of the tank floor and the
back edge of the doubler notch.

D 5. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa front fuse bottom into

the notches and recess on the bottom of the fuse. When
satisfied with the fit, wick thin CA along both outside edges.
Turn the fuse over, then wick thin CA into the inside joints
between the bottom and the formers. Follow with medium
or thick CA in any open joints.

D 8. Apply medium CA along all inside joints to
permanently secure the framework.

D 9. Cut one of the 36" plastic outer pushrod tubes to
32". This will be used for your antenna tube. Cut two more
pushrod tubes to 30". These will be used to contain the
elevator and rudder pushrods.

D 10. Lightly sand the outside of the pushrod tubes with

150-grit sandpaper to make them "receptive" to glue. Slide
the 32" antenna tube through the bottom hole in formers
F-3,F-4 and F-5 all the way to the tail. Slide the other two
pushrod tubes through the upper holes in the same
formers and out through the exit slots at the rear of the
fuse. These tubes should protrude about 1/2" past the
rear end of the slots.

D 11. Use medium CA to glue the pushrod tubes to each
former and the inside of the exit slots.

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Skip step 12 if you will be using wing bolts!

D 12. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply front and rear dowel
triplers in position with medium CA as shown in the photos

and on the plans.

D 13. The die-cut 1/8" balsa fuse top has a partially die­cut score across the width at the wide end. If necessary
deepen the score with a hobby knife. With the score facing
up, align the score with the edge of your work table and

then gently "crack" the wood along the line. Do not break
the part in two. Turn the fuse top over so that the score is
facing down, then test fit the fuse top. Wick thin CA into the
joint between the top, former tabs and the sides. Follow
with medium CA to fill in any gaps.

16. If you will be using bolts to attach your wing, install
two 1/4"-20 blind nuts in the laminated wing bolt
plate. Use a hammer or vise and thin CA like you did
when installing the blind nuts in the firewall.

D 14. Test fit the firewall assembly in the front end of the

fuse. Clean up the edges with a sanding block and 150-grit

sandpaper if required. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the

firewall assembly into the notches at the front of the fuse

doublers and to the front edge of the fuel tank floor. Be sure
that the bottom lock tab points toward the bottom of the
fuse. Use masking tape or #64 rubber bands to hold the
fuse sides together until the epoxy has cured.

D 17. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the wing bolt plate into

the notches of the ply doublers and F-3.

D 18. Carefully sand or cut a bevel along the bottom edge
of the notch at the top of the die-cut 1/8" ply windshield.
This bevel will allow the windshield to fit flush against F-2. If
you will be bolting on your wing, F-2A has already been
glued to F-2. In this case you will need to increase the
depth of the notch by 1/8" to allow for the additional former
thickness. Create the bevel after you enlarge the notch.

D 15. Cut two firewall reinforcements from the 1/2" x 20"
triangular balsa stick. The triangular stock fits behind the
firewall, on top of the fuel tank floor. Use 6-minute epoxy
to glue one piece in each corner. Sand the top end flush
with the top of the fuse.

D 19. When the windshield fit looks good, glue it in
position with medium CA. Sand the top portion of F-2 (A)
flush with the front surface of the windshield. Sand the rear
windshield overhang flush with the back of F-2.

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