Great Planes GPMA0119 User Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great

Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

P.O. Box 788 UrbanaJL 61801 (217) 398-8970

PT60P03 2/95 V.1

PRECAUTIONS...............................................................2

INTRODUCTION..............................................................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE.......................................3

Engine selection..............................................................3

Wing configuration ..........................................................3

PREPARATIONS .............................................................3

Other items required

.......................................................3

Setting up shop ...............................................................3

Suggested supplies and tools.........................................4

Common abbreviations...................................................5

Types of wood .................................................................5

Metric conversions..........................................................5

The what and how of adhesives......................................5

Get ready to build............................................................6

Die-Cut

Patterns.........................................................

7&8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES..........................................9

Build the stabilizer and fin ...............................................9

Hinge the elevator and rudder.......................................10

BUILD THE FUSELAGE.................................................11

Preparation....................................................................11

Assemble the major fuse parts......................................13

Install

the main landing

gear.........................................16

Install the engine and fuel tank .....................................17

Attach the stab and fin...................................................19

BUILD THE WING ..........................................................20

Preparation....................................................................20

Assemble wing panels ..................................................21

Join the wing panels......................................................23

Sheet the wing ..............................................................25

Install the aileron servo tray ..........................................27

Wing completion............................................................28

FINISHING......................................................................30

Final sanding.................................................................30

Fuel proofing.................................................................31

Balance the airplane laterally........................................31

Cover the structure........................................................31

Recommended covering sequence...............................32

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS.................................32

Install the control surfaces ............................................32

Install landing gear........................................................32

Preliminary Radio installation........................................33

Balance your model ......................................................35

Final radio hook-up

.......................................................36

Aileron lock for 3-channel operation..............................38

Control surface throws ..................................................39

Ground stance...............................................................40

Pre-flight........................................................................41

Engine safety precautions.............................................41

AMA safety code ...........................................................42

FLYING..........................................................................42

Taxiing..........................................................................43

Takeoff...........................................................................43

Flying............................................................................43

Landing .........................................................................44

Some modeling terms and trivia....................................44

TWO-VIEW

DRAWING...................................................48

Your PT-60 is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working

model that functions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the PT-60, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your

first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model

before you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model

Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered clubs across the country. Through any one of them, instructor training programs and insured newcomer training are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone

number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262 (317)287-1256

Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes PT-60, the

Perfect Trainer, for possibly your first step into the exciting world of R/C flying. We are sure that you will find a great deal of modeling satisfaction while building and flying this new version of the classic trainer that has helped tens of thousands of newcomers to successfully get off the ground and into the sky.

The PT family of trainers has been around since 1986. As just about any old pro will tell you, no other trainer model offers so many of the important features most needed by a novice. While R/C flying can be learned by practically anyone, it does require a fair amount of eyehand coordination-a skill that can only be learned by quality "stick time." This is where the PTs shine. They are all designed to be rugged, stable, self-recovering and able to fly slowly enough to allow you time to think about your next maneuver.

For your tricky first flights, altitude is your friend. Our newest member of the family, the PT-60, has a relatively large 71" wingspan so it is easy to see, even when flying a few hundred feet above the ground. Once a PT has been trimmed for straight and level flight (hopefully by an experienced pilot) you will be able to get out of most bad situations by simply letting go of the sticks on your

transmitter. The PT will normally level its own wings and resume stable flight within 50-100 feet. This feature alone has helped many student pilots master the basics in the shortest possible time.

The PT-60 is designed for either 3 or 4 channel operation By this we mean that you can start with just rudder, elevator and throttle control, then add a fourth servo for the ailerons when you want to refine your skills The ailerons are designed to be locked in the neutral position after the wing is assembled, but can be activated with only a few minutes of work and an additional servo We recommend the three channel setup for beginners Due to the dihedral (upward angle of the wing) built into the wing and generous rudder size, the turn and bank response is almost identical to using ailerons When you are ready to move up to advanced maneuvers such as crosswind landings and basic aerobatics, you will need to hook up the ailerons

If you are already an experienced pilot who is just looking for a sport model for those lazy summer afternoons, we provide the necessary information to build the wing with less dihedral and less washout to allow more responsive flight characteristics

Due to its rugged construction and light wing loading, the PT-60 can be powered by a wide range of engines We flew our prototype with several engines, from a high performance 61 two-stroke to a 48 four-stroke Every engine we tried exhibited exceptionally fine performance for a trainer.

We have written this instruction manual with the novice in mind and have tried to include enough information, expert tips and practical suggestions to help get you on the right track (or should we say runway) from the start Our goal is for you to experience the fun and satisfaction that thousands of modelers the world over enjoy, without the mistakes that have spoiled the hobby for some

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this model, please call us at (217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please look up the part numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have them ready when calling.

D 4 Channel radio with 3 or 4 servos D Engine 45 - 61 2-stroke

48 - 70 4-stroke

D Propeller (Top Flite Power Point") Refer to your

engine's instructions for proper size D 12 oz Fuel tank (Great Planes GPMQ4105) D 12" Medium fuel tubing (Great Planes GPMQ4131) D (2) 3" Wheels - mains (Great Planes GPMQ4225) D (1) 2-3/4" Wheel - nose (Great Planes GPMQ4224) D (6) 3/16" Wheel collars (Great Planes GPMQ4308) D 2-3/4" Spinner (Great Planes GPMQ4525) D (3) Rolls covering film (Top Flite MonoKote ) D 1/2" Latex foam rubber padding (Hobbico®

HCAQ1050) D 1/16" Foam wing seating tape (Great Planes

GPMQ4422)

D #64 Rubber bands - for optional wing mounting

(Hobbico HCAQ2020)

If this is your first model there are a few necessary supplies and tools that you should gather before going any further The single most important item that is required for any

modeling project is a flat work surface No, the kitchen table is not a good idea This is closely followed by a space

where you can work, leave stuff out, make a mess, spill glue and paint without worry, and has adequate ventilation.

Hey, the garage sounds like a good place!

A workbench can be as simple as a solid flat table or a bench made from some two-by-fours and a solid core door. Hollow core interior doors work fine, but the cheaper ones are prone to warping.

the hobby you will probably want to add a few power tools such as a Dremel® Moto-tool®, belt sander and a scroll saw, but in the case of the PT-60 everything you need is listed below.

Here is a suggested approach for building an inexpensive workbench. You will need (7) 6' two-by-fours of

good quality pine or fir, a 30" x 82" door, some 16d nails, a

hand saw and a hammer.

WORKBENCH FRAME

Assemble the workbench as follows:

1) Cut one 2x4 into three sections, two 24" long and one

21" long.

2) Nail the 24" pieces to the two ends of two straight 6' pieces to make the frame for the top. Nail the 21" piece in between the two 6' pieces across the center of the frame.

3) Cut two two-by-fours in half to make four 36" legs. Nail (or bolt) the four legs to the frame with the 2" side facing

the long sides of the frame.

4) Cut two 21" side rails from one of the remaining boards. Nail the two boards to the sides of each pair of legs.

5) Nail the last 6' board to the front side of the back legs, level with the two side pieces. (1x3 Cross braces may

be nailed to the back legs for more rigidity.)

6) Center the door on the frame and either glue or use

double-sided, foam back sticky tape to hold it in position.

We recommended Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy.

D 2 oz. CA adhesive-Thin (Great Planes GPMR6003) D 2 oz. CA+ adhesive-Medium (Great Planes

GPMR6009)

D 1 oz. CA- adhesive-Thick (Great Planes

GPMR6014) D 6-Minute Epoxy (Great Planes GPMR6045) D 30-Minute Epoxy (Great Planes GPMR6047) D Epoxy brushes (Great Planes GPMR8060) D Epoxy mixing Sticks (Great Planes GPMR8055) D CA Applicator tips (Hobbico HCAR3780) D Hand or electric drill D Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16",

13/64", 1/4", 17/64", 5/16" D Sealing iron (Top Flite)

D Heat gun (Top Flite) D Hobby saw (X-acto® Razor Saw) D Hobby knife, #11 Blades D Pliers D Wire cutters D Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat blade) D Round file (or similar) D T-Pins D String D Straightedge with scale D Masking tape (required for construction) D Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit) D T-Bar sanding block (or similar) D Waxed paper D Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico

HobbyLite'"

D IsopropyI rubbing alcohol (70%) D Drafting triangle or carpenters square D Dremel Moto-Tool® or similar (optional)

You will need to cover your work surface with something you can push pins into. The back side of a 2' x 4' sheet of ceiling tile makes a great building surface, or if you want to cover a larger area you can buy a 4' x 8' sheet of Celotex® insulation board from your local building supply store.

Most of the tools listed below can probably be found around the house. A few items like a razor saw, hobby knife, sealing iron, heat gun, and glues can be purchased from your local hobby dealer. As you get more involved with

On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for almost any sanding task. Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa for sanding hard to reach spots. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding before covering.

Cyanoacrylate or CA glue has changed the way models

are built more than any other advance in modeling technology. In the good ol' days, model cement like Ambroid, Duco, Comet, and Sigment were the glues of choice. They all had a strong odor that could cause dizziness, dried slowly (compared to CA) and became brittle with age. CA, on the other hand, is stronger, works almost instantly, and is bottled in three different viscosities (thicknesses). CA is used for most glue joints, except where epoxy is specified. CA does emit rather strong fumes (some say it's like tear gas) as it cures, so rule number one is to

work in a well ventilated area. All CA glues work best if the joints are smooth and fit well.

Thin CA is also known simply as CA.

This is the instant variety, used for most

initial assembly and tack gluing. Thin CA

is usually "wicked" into a tightly fitting joint by putting a few drops on the seam, then holding the parts together while the CA penetrates and bonds the parts. When gluing plywood or hardwood, a

mist of accelerator (see next page) will

help the CA work a little better.

Fuse = Fuselage Stab = Horizontal stabilizer Fin = Vertical fin

LE = Leading edge (front) TE = Trailing edge (rear) LG = Landing gear

Ply = Plywood " = Inches

Balsa Basswood Plywood

CA+ is also known as medium or gap filling CA. CA+ is used for surface

gluing, filling small gaps between poorly matched parts, and for general purpose applications. It cures slower than thin CA, allowing you to apply a bead to two or three parts before assembly. Curing time without accelerator is 20-30 seconds.

CA- or thick CA is used when extra positioning time is needed. CA- is a great gap filler and is also used to make fillets when a little extra strength is required. Curing time is about 1-2 minutes.

Accelerator is a liquid chemical that

comes in a spray bottle for use in speeding up the cure time of all CA types. It should be misted on, not sprayed heavily on the joint. Accelerator may cause exposed CA to bubble and sometimes change color. A drawback to accelerator is that the CA cures before it has time to fully penetrate the wood, so it should only be used sparingly-when

absolutely necessary.

30-minute epoxy is used for extra strength (because it can penetrate longer) and where several parts must be aligned and checked before it cures. Working time is about 25 minutes, handling time 2 hours, and it's fully cured in 8 hours.

Great Planes Pro Wood Glue is an Aliphatic resin glue that works well on all types of wood. It is non-toxic, virtually odorless, and dries clear. Some people are sensitive to the fumes and sanding dust caused by CA, so this is a good alternative for general modeling use. Its only drawback is that it is slow to cure, requiring the parts to be securely clamped, pinned or taped while the glue dries.

Epoxy

Great Planes has two Epoxy formulations available for the

modeler. Both offer exceptional strength and convenient working times. Use epoxy when the joint requires exceptional strength, such as when installing the firewall, when joining the wing panels, and when installing wing hold-down blocks. As with most epoxies, you mix equal parts of resin and hardener, stir well, then apply a thin film to each part. Parts should be clamped, pinned, taped or weighted in place until fully cured. Before the epoxy cures, clean off any excess with a paper towel. A word of caution about mixing epoxy-don't use extra hardener in the hopes of making the mixture harder or work faster. Just about all epoxies work best with exactly a 50/50 mix. When you increase the amount of hardener you run the risk of

causing the cured epoxy to become either brittle or

rubbery-neither being as strong as a properly mixed batch.

6-Minute epoxy is used for simple, small gluing appl icatio ns-where elaborate alignment is not required. Working time (before it's too gooey to use) is about 5 minutes, handling time 15 minutes and it's fully cured in about 1 hour.

Okay, you've got your work space ready, your tools are at hand, and you know how to choose and use the right glue for the job. Let's get started!

D 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plans inside out to

make them lie flat.

D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt tip or ball point pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on pages 7 and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer) and hardware.

Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store your

parts as you sort, identify and separate them into

sub-assemblies.

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

Work on a flat surface over the plans covered with waxed paper. Refer to the plans to identify the parts and their locations.

D 1. Locate the shaped 5/16" balsa forward, middle and aft stab parts. Check their fit and sand the mating edges as needed. Glue the three parts together by applying a light bead of medium CA to the edges, then press the parts together. Wipe off any excess from the surface before it cures.

D 5. Temporarily join the 5/16" x 1-1/4" x 27" balsa elevator to the stab and the 5/16" shaped rudder to the fin with masking tape. Draw a centerline (see Expert Tip below) around the outside edges of both assemblies. Use a sanding block loaded with 150-grit sandpaper to round the perimeter edges of both assemblies to match the plans. Do not roundoff the bottom edge of the fin. Refer to the plans for the exact shape. The centerline will help you to keep the shape symmetrical.

D 2. Locate the shaped 5/16" balsa dorsal, forward and aft fin parts. Check their fit and sand the mating edges as

needed. Work over the plans (don't forget the waxed paper), then glue the three parts together with a thin bead of medium CA. Wipe off any excess from the surface before it cures.

D 3. Position the 5/16" x 5/16" x 3" balsa dorsal fin tab stick over the plans under the dorsal fin, then mark its location on the bottom edge of the dorsal fin. Glue the tab

to the dorsal fin with medium CA.

D 4. Sand the seams of the stab and fin smooth with

sharp, 220-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.

paper under the part to raise the mark to the same level as the pen's point. If the pen is too low, raise it with paper shims (or playing cards) to the right height.

C. Now, depending on which is shimmed (the part or the pen), rotate the un-shimmed component around the perimeter to draw the line.

the flow of CA to the back of the hinges. This results in hinges that are only "tack glued" approximately 1/8" to

1/4" into the hinge slots. The following technique has been

developed to help ensure thorough and secure gluing.

D 6. With reference to the above sketch, cut 18 hinges

from the supplied 2" x 9" composite hinge material and cut the corners as shown. You will need five hinges for the

elevator and four for the rudder. Store the remaining hinges

for use later during construction.

D 7. Separate the elevator and rudder from the stab and

fin. Draw a centerline on the TE of the stab and the LE of the elevator. Do the same for the fin and rudder.

D 8. Use the plans as a guide to mark the locations of the hinges on all tail components-fin, rudder, stab, and

elevator. Refer to the Expert Tip that follows, then cut

matching hinge slits in all four parts.

A. Cut the hinge slot using a #11 blade in a standard #1

knife handle. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge location. This first cut is to establish your cut in the right place, so concentrate on staying on the centerline and don't cut too deep! Make three of four

more cuts in the same line, going slightly deeper each time. As you make these additional cuts, work on going straight into the wood. Continue this process while

"wiggling" the knife handle forward and backward until the blade has reached the proper depth for the hinge.

The hinge material supplied in this kit consists of a

3-layer lamination of mylar and polyester. It is specially

made for the purpose of hinging model airplane control surfaces. Properly installed, this type of hinge provides the best combination of strength, durability and ease of installation. We trust even our best show models to these hinges, but it is essential to install them correctly. Please read the following instructions and follow them carefully to obtain the best results. These instructions may be used to effectively install any of the

various brands of CA hinges.

The most common mistake made by modelers when installing this type of hinge is not applying a sufficient amount of glue to fully secure the hinge over its entire

surface area; or, the hinge slots are very tight, restricting

B. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep, in the center of the hinge slot. If you use a Dremel Moto-Tool® for this task, it

will result in a cleaner hole than if you use a slower speed

power or hand drill. Drilling the hole will twist some of the

wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to insert the

hinge, so you should reinsert the knife blade, working it back and forth a few times to clean out the slot.

C. Trial fit the hinges into the slots and temporarily

attach the control surface, to verify the fit and operation.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN PLACE UNTIL THE MODEL IS COVERED! YOU WILL BE

INSTRUCTED WHEN TO GLUE THE HINGES.

D. Insert the hinges and install the control surface. Verify the left-right positioning of the control surface, and close up the hinge gap to 1/32" or less. It is best to leave a very slight hinge gap, rather than closing it up tight, to

help prevent the CA from wicking along the hinge line.

Make sure the control surface will deflect to the

recommended throws without binding. If you have cut your hinge slots too deep, the hinges may slide in too far, leaving only a small portion of the hinge in the

control surface. To avoid this, you may insert a small

pin through the center of each hinge, before installing. This pin will keep the hinge centered while installing the control surface. Remove the pins before proceeding.

D 1. Lightly sand the edges of the three die-cut 1/8" balsa

fuse side pieces. Test fit the upper, lower and aft sections

as shown in the photo. When satisfied with the tit, make a fuse side using thin CA to glue the three parts together over waxed paper covered plans. Make a second fuse side in the

same manner. Use fresh, 220-grit sandpaper on a sanding

block to go over all joints to make sure they are smooth.

D 9. Sand the LE of the elevator and rudder to a "V" shape as shown on the plans, but leave the TE of the stab

and fin squared off.

D 10. Test fit the elevator and rudder.

Congratulations! You made it through the first stage and should be proud of yourself. You should also have learned a few "tricks of the trade" as used by the guys that designed this kit. Remember, all us modelers are just

"plane folks" and we like to help where we can...

D 2. Examine the two fuse sides for blemishes, then position them on your workbench exactly as shown in the photo, with the "bad" sides facing up if possible. You need to build a right and a left side so be sure that the sides are mirrored as you look at them. Mark the inside surfaces with "right" and "left."

D 3. Lightly sand the edges of the die-cut 1/8" ply upper and lower fuse doublers (See the Die-Cut patterns on

page 7.) Drill a 1/16" hole at each of the punch marks on all the fuse doubler parts. These holes allow CA to wick into the center portions of the doublers when you glue them to the fuse sides.

D 4. Align the top edge of the top doubler with the top of the fuse side at the wing saddle. Slide it back and forth

until the front edge of the windshield and rear end are

aligned as shown in the photo. The balsa side behind the wing saddle protrudes above the doubler by 1/8". Take your time as this is a crucial step in building a straight fuse. When the doubler is positioned, wick thin CA between the

doubler and the fuse side, around all edges and also through the holes you drilled. While holding the doubler in

position, wipe away any excess CA with a tissue or paper towel before it cures.

D 5. Align the lower doubler as shown, with the front edge even with the front edge of the bottom notch and the landing gear block notch flush with the "indented" location on the fuse side. There should be 1/8" of balsa showing below the doubler when it's properly aligned. Glue the lower doubler in position with thin CA the same way as the upper doubler.

D 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 to glue the doublers to the second fuse side. Be sure to build a right and a left side.

(See the photo at Step 8.)

D 7. Align the die-cut 1/8" balsa aft fuse doubler even with the rear end of the fuse. Position the doubler so that 1/8" of the side sheet protrudes along the bottom edge and also

at the location of the stab as shown, then glue it in position with thin CA. The pushrod exit slots are intentionally staggered to allow the pushrods to angle smoothly through the fuse. Repeat for the other side.

WING BOLT PLATE LAMINATION

D 10. Notice that two pieces of the wing bolt plate have grain running in one direction while the third piece has grain running opposite to the first two. The odd one goes in the center of the sandwich. Mix up about 1/4 ounce of 30-minute epoxy, then glue the bolt plates together as shown. This assembly must be held together with clothespins or weighted down while the epoxy cures.

Skip step #8 if you will be using bolts to mount your wing.

LI 8. If you will be installing the dowels for rubber band wing attachment, you need to drill 5/16" holes through the fuse sides at each die-cut location in the upper doublers. Use a backup block of scrap wood under the fuse side to prevent splitting the balsa as the drill bit goes through.

D 9. Locate the three die-cut 1/8" ply firewall parts F-1A,

F-1B and F-1C and the three die-cut 1/8" ply wing bolt plates.

Note: you need the wing bolt plates for strength even if you

will be using rubber bands to attach the wing.

FIREWALL LAMINATIONS

(VIEWED FROM THE REAR)

D 11. Use the remaining 30-minute epoxy to glue F-1A, F-1B and F-1C together. Be sure that F-1A (the one with the punch marks) is on top of the stack with the punch marks facing outward, that the locking tabs are aligned and

that F-1C is flush with the top edge of the assembly (see sketch) This assembly must be held together with clothespins or weighted down while the epoxy cures

D 12 Now you need to get out your drill and a 3/16" drill bit to prepare the formers for pushrods Position each former over a piece of scrap wood, then drill a 3/16" hole through each of the punch marks in the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F-2 through F-5. Do not drill the F-1 assembly during this step

D 15 Insert a 5/16" wing dowel through the hole at the top of F-2 Slide the die-cut 1/8" ply former F-2A onto the dowel from the front of F-2 (that's the side with the punched number) to check the fit Glue F-2A in position with medium CA but don't glue the dowel to the formers as it's only being used for alignment Carefully remove the dowel before the CA cures

The top and bottom 3/16" holes are for the standard 2-stroke engine installation These may have to switch sides if using a 4-stroke engine (See sketch at Step 2 on page 34)

FIREWALL HOLE SIZES

D 13 Refer to the sketch, then drill 3/16" pushrod tube holes through the firewall where indicated Change your bit size to 7/32" (or better, 15/64") and drill the two fuel tube holes through the top of the firewall Finally drill four 5/32" holes in the firewall for the engine mount blind nuts

D 16 Examine your work Clean up any "fuzz" from around the holes you drilled and also the edges of the formers with a sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper

IMPORTANT: Position all of the formers with the embossed numbers facing the front of the model

D 14 Insert a 6-32 blind nut into one of the holes in the back of the firewall (F-1C) then tap it gently with a hammer

to start it into the hole Now you can either squeeze the

blind nut all the way into the firewall with a vise or finish seating it with your hammer Put a drop of thin CA on the outer edge of the flange to secure the blind nut in position

Repeat this operation for the other three blind nuts.

D 1 Test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply F-2 and F-3 formers in position on the right fuse side When you test fit the formers, be sure they line up with the bottom edge of the lower doubler If you will be bolting on your wing the F-2A former must face toward the front of the model If you will not be bolting on your wing, former F-2A is not needed Glue both parts to the fuse side as shown with medium CA Hold the parts vertical with a triangle or carpenter's square while the CA cures

D 2. Glue the left fuse side to formers F-2 and F-3.

D 3. Insert the die-cut 1/8" ply tank floor between the fuse sides. The tab at the rear end should fit into the notch at the bottom of F-2 and the bottom of the tank floor should fit on top of the lower fuse doublers. Squeeze the fuse sides to the tank floor, then glue the tank floor in position with medium CA.

D 6. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa aft fuse bottom between the fuse sides. Temporarily hold the bottom in position with a few strips of masking tape-do not glue yet!

D 7. Install the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F-4 and F-5 in the notches of the fuse sides and bottom. Be sure that the antenna tube hole is toward the bottom of the fuse. Use more masking tape to hold the formers tightly in position.

When you are satisfied that everything looks square and true, place the fuse on a length (at least 36") of waxed paper, then wick thin CA into the joints (from the inside) between the fuse sides, bottom, and the formers. Press down on the framework as you do the gluing to hold the frame square.

D 4. Fit the two die-cut 1/8" balsa forward fillers between the tank floor and top doublers. The front edge of the filler must be flush with the front edge of the tank floor and the back edge of the doubler notch.

D 5. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa front fuse bottom into

the notches and recess on the bottom of the fuse. When satisfied with the fit, wick thin CA along both outside edges. Turn the fuse over, then wick thin CA into the inside joints between the bottom and the formers. Follow with medium or thick CA in any open joints.

D 8. Apply medium CA along all inside joints to permanently secure the framework.

D 9. Cut one of the 36" plastic outer pushrod tubes to 32". This will be used for your antenna tube. Cut two more pushrod tubes to 30". These will be used to contain the elevator and rudder pushrods.

D 10. Lightly sand the outside of the pushrod tubes with

150-grit sandpaper to make them "receptive" to glue. Slide the 32" antenna tube through the bottom hole in formers F-3,F-4 and F-5 all the way to the tail. Slide the other two pushrod tubes through the upper holes in the same formers and out through the exit slots at the rear of the fuse. These tubes should protrude about 1/2" past the rear end of the slots.

D 11. Use medium CA to glue the pushrod tubes to each former and the inside of the exit slots.

Skip step 12 if you will be using wing bolts!

D 12. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply front and rear dowel triplers in position with medium CA as shown in the photos

and on the plans.

D 13. The die-cut 1/8" balsa fuse top has a partially diecut score across the width at the wide end. If necessary deepen the score with a hobby knife. With the score facing up, align the score with the edge of your work table and

then gently "crack" the wood along the line. Do not break the part in two. Turn the fuse top over so that the score is facing down, then test fit the fuse top. Wick thin CA into the joint between the top, former tabs and the sides. Follow with medium CA to fill in any gaps.

16. If you will be using bolts to attach your wing, install two 1/4"-20 blind nuts in the laminated wing bolt plate. Use a hammer or vise and thin CA like you did when installing the blind nuts in the firewall.

D 14. Test fit the firewall assembly in the front end of the

fuse. Clean up the edges with a sanding block and 150-grit

sandpaper if required. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the

firewall assembly into the notches at the front of the fuse

doublers and to the front edge of the fuel tank floor. Be sure that the bottom lock tab points toward the bottom of the fuse. Use masking tape or #64 rubber bands to hold the fuse sides together until the epoxy has cured.

D 17. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the wing bolt plate into

the notches of the ply doublers and F-3.

D 18. Carefully sand or cut a bevel along the bottom edge of the notch at the top of the die-cut 1/8" ply windshield. This bevel will allow the windshield to fit flush against F-2. If you will be bolting on your wing, F-2A has already been glued to F-2. In this case you will need to increase the depth of the notch by 1/8" to allow for the additional former thickness. Create the bevel after you enlarge the notch.

D 15. Cut two firewall reinforcements from the 1/2" x 20" triangular balsa stick. The triangular stock fits behind the firewall, on top of the fuel tank floor. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue one piece in each corner. Sand the top end flush with the top of the fuse.

D 19. When the windshield fit looks good, glue it in position with medium CA. Sand the top portion of F-2 (A) flush with the front surface of the windshield. Sand the rear windshield overhang flush with the back of F-2.

D 20. Edge glue the two die-cut 1/4" upper and lower nose blocks together. Sand the outside edges lightly to

clean them up. Test fit the nose blocks in the engine compartment to make sure that the top rear notches line up. Sand the rear edge of the blocks until a good fit is obtained.

D 21. Glue the nose blocks to the inside surfaces of the engine compartment and the front of F-1A with 6-minute epoxy. Sand the outside edges flush with the fuse sides.

D 24. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" balsa cabin top fillers in the notches on both sides of the windshield.

D 25. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply stab base (SB) into the

recess at the rear end of the fuse. It should fit flush with the top edge of the fuse sides. Glue the stab base in position with medium CA when satisfied with the fit.

If you will be using wing bolts, skip this step.

D 26. Test fit the two 5/16" x 6" dowels through their holes in the fuse then remove them until the model is covered. It's usually easier to insert the dowels if the ends are slightly chamfered or rounded off. After the model has been covered you will reinstall the dowels using epoxy.

D 22. Locate the die-cut 1/8" ply hatch retainer (HR).

Hopefully you didn't throw away this part as it came from the

center of former F-2. Draw a line 3/8" from the edge with the rounded corners. Position the hatch retainer so that the line is on the straight edge of the die-cut 1/8" ply hatch and is centered. Before you glue it in place with medium CA, check to be sure that you are gluing it to the un-punched surface of the hatch-the next step explains why.

D 23. Slide the retainer (HR) under the bottom edge of the windshield and seat the hatch in the nose block notches. Tape the hatch in position or hold it firmly while you drill 1/16" holes through the hatch into the firewall at the three punch marks. Remove the hatch, then enlarge the holes in only the hatch with a 3/32" drill bit.

D 1. Test fit the 1/2" x 3/4" x 3-1/2" grooved hardwood landing gear (LG) rail in the slot on the bottom of the fuse. It should fit snugly between the ends of the balsa bottom sheeting and the notches in the fuse sides. Remove the landing gear rail, then use 6-minute epoxy around all points

of contact to glue it in position.

D 2. Use medium CA to glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply landing gear doublers (LGD) to the inside of the fuse to make a bridge across the LG rail.

D 3 Use 30 minute epoxy to glue the 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" hardwood landing gear blocks to the fuse sides and LG rail in the recesses created by the landing gear doublers A scrap balsa stick should be wedged between the blocks to hold them in position while the epoxy cures

Note: You may work on the next section (engine & fuel

tank) while waiting for the epoxy to fully cure

D 4 After allowing the LG assembly to cure for a few

hours (overnight is best) fit the die cut 1/8 ply landing gear drill guide into the groove in the rail flush with the fuse sides as shown Drill a 3/32" pilot hole through the

rails and underlying blocks at each of the punch marks on the guide Use care to make the holes as perpendicular to the fuse bottom as possible Check the inside of the fuse to

make sure that the holes are straight and clearly in the

hardwood LG blocks then redrill the holes with a 3/16" bit,

making angular adjustments if necessary

The Great Planes adjustable engine mount is simple and

convenient to use It may be used to mount most 40 60

two stroke and 40 70 four stroke engines Nose gear

bearings are incorporated in the mount Because the nose gear bearing holes are prednlled for 5/32" wire, you will need to enlarge the holes by drilling them out with a 3/16" or 13/64" bit If you have a numbered drill bit set the #11 bit

is perfect If you use a 3/16" bit wiggle the bit around to create a slightly loose fit or the nose gear wire will be tight Caution: Don't overdo the enlargement process!

D 1 Cut or break the spreader bar from each mount half Carefully trim any extra material left by the spreader bar from each mount half as the surface where the spreader bars were attached must be smooth to allow the mount halves to fit together Trim the flashing from any rough edges if necessary Assemble the mount halves as shown

D 2 Temporarily install the engine mount on the firewall using four #6 flat washers and four 6-32 x 1" machine screws Don't tighten the screws completely until after the engine has been positioned

D 3 Remove the needle valve from the engine, then position the engine on the engine mount Slide the engine mount halves apart until the engine mounting lugs will sit flat on the rails Adjust the mount until the firewall centerline is centered between the "tick" marks on the mount Tighten the 6-32 screws to hold the mount firmly in position against the firewall

D 5 Test fit the main landing gear. You need to carve a small radius in the LG rail holes toward the center of the fuse to allow the LG wire to fully seat in the holes Also, it is

helpful to file off the sharp edges at the ends of the LG

wire After fitting the LG in position, the LG may be

removed and set aside until final assembly.

NOTE: If you will be installing a 4 stroke engine you need to plan ahead for servo location and pushrod routing Refer to the sketch on page 34 and the fuselage plans for the 2 stroke/4 stroke servo and pushrod setup

D 4 Position the engine so that the backplate of a spinner will be 4-7/8" (124mm) in front of the firewall Carefully mark the engine mounting holes on the rails with a sharpened piece of wire or a pencil lead NOTE: If installing an 0S 70 4 stroke engine the engine will have to be slightly forward of the recommended position to allow for the choke mechanism This

will not cause a balance problem and is quite acceptable

D 5. Remove the engine and engine mount from the fuse.

Use a centerpunch or sharpened nail to "dimple" the marks on the rails, then drill a 7/64" hole through the rails at each punch mark. If you have access to a drill press, this is the best tool for the job. However, if you are using a hand-held

electric drill, try to keep the bit perpendicular to the rails.

D 6. Reinstall the engine mount and position the engine over the holes in the rails. Mark the location of the needle

valve on the inside of the nose blocks. Use a hobby knife

and round file to shape the needle valve access in the fuse side (See next photo.) Redrill the throttle and steering pushrod holes with a 3/16" bit to puncture the tri-stock.

D 7. Install the engine with four #6-32 x 3/4" sheet metal screws that have been provided with this kit.

through the throttle pushrod tube into the radio compartment. You will need to make a couple of bends in the pushrod so that the clevis will engage the throttle arm on the engine without binding. Install a silicone retainer around the clevis when satisfied with how the wire is bent,

then "snap" the clevis onto the throttle arm.

D 11. Assemble the fuel tank following the manufacturer's instructions*. Push a 6" length of fuel tubing onto the tank's vent and fuel supply nipples. Install the fuel tank in the fuse with the vent tube passing through the firewall on the right and the fuel supply tube on the left (as viewed from the back of the firewall). Check for kinks and fix any problems before proceeding.

D 8. Cut two 12" long pieces of outer pushrod tube from the remaining 36" tube, then roughen the outside surface with 150-grit sandpaper. Insert the pushrod tubes through the throttle and nose wheel steering pushrod holes in the firewall and F-2, leaving about 1/16" of both tubes protruding past the firewall. Glue the pushrod tubes in place.

D 9. Cut a 36" threaded wire pushrod in half to make two 18" pieces. The wire with threads on one end is for the throttle and the plain piece is for the nose wheel steering pushrod. Save the steering pushrod for later use.

*Note: We used a 12 oz Great Planes tank (GPMQ4105) in our prototypes. By using the supplied right-angle fuel supply tube, the fuel can be routed to the top of the firewall without the risk of kinking the tube.

D 12. Cut some strips of 1/4" latex foam rubber to pack under and around the tank (see photo for step 11). The foam rubber holds the tank in place and helps prevent fuel "foaming" caused by engine vibration.

D 13. Hold the muffler in position and, if it touches the top of the nose block, mark the area that will need trimming. Remove the engine, then cut the muffler clearance with a razor saw and hobby knife. Shape the bottom corners with a round file for a neat appearance. Attach the muffler to the engine before testing the fit. There should be a gap of 3/32"-1/8" around the muffler header.

...................Nylon Clevis (1)

D 10. Screw a nylon clevis 14 revolutions onto the 18" length of threaded pushrod wire. Insert the pushrod

Well, we're making progress. The fuse assembly is about 99% finished, the stab and fin are done, the engine and tank are nicely installed. Have a soda. clean up your workbench, then let's start putting the pieces together.

Preparation

D 1 Measure the total width of the stab (approximately 25") and make a mark at the exact midpoint of the TE. Use a drafting triangle or a carpenter's square to draw an accurate centerline on the top of the stab, starting at the mark on the TE and extending to the LE.

D 2 Accurately measure the width of the fuse at the top of F-3 and just in front of the stab base Mark the exact center of the fuse top at both of those locations Lightly draw a centerline between these two marks Stick a pin into the fuse top at the F-3 centerline mark.

D 5 Now check the stab alignment by measuring from the pin at F-3 to the stab TE at both tips Adjust the alignment of the stab (while keeping the stab centered on the fuse) until these measurements are equal Once you have the stab pinned in correct alignment, make a couple of reference marks on the stab and the fuse, so you can

quickly realign the stab during the gluing operation.

Now proceed to align and attach the stab and fin as follows:

D 3 Lay the stab in place on the stab base and center it as well as you can using the marks you made above Pin it in place Lay a 36" straightedge (yardstick) on edge, across the front of the wing saddle on top of the fuse, as shown in the photo. Hold the straightedge in place by clipping a couple of clothespins to the fuse sides behind the straightedge

D 4. Check the alignment of the stab by standing 6 to 10 feet behind the airplane and crouch down until the stab TE and the bottom of the straightedge are very close together If the stab TE is not exactly parallel with the straightedge, remove the stab and sand the stab base carefully with a sanding block, then replace the stab and recheck its alignment Note that you do not have to sand much to make a big change in the stab angle Keep doing this until the stab lines up very closely with the straightedge

D 6 Remove the stab from the fuse Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to the stab base Lay the stab

in place and pin it back in correct alignment using your reference marks Carefully remove any excess epoxy that

squeezes out of the Joint under the stab Recheck the stab

alignment carefully before the epoxy cures.

D 7 Position the fin on the fuse top and stab with the bottom of the "angled" rear edge even with the TE of the stab, then pin it in place Check its alignment with the centerline of the fuse with a long straightedge held against

the side of the fin The straightedge must be parallel to the

fuse top centerline Use thick CA to glue the fin in position while holding a triangle against it and the stab to maintain vertical alignment

D 8. Locate the remaining piece of 1/2" balsa tri-stock and cut two 7" pieces from it These will be used to reinforce the fin Hold the 1/2" dimension of both pieces together (backto-back), then shape both parts simultaneously as shown in the photo and on the plans

D 9 Use thick CA to glue the shaped fin reinforcements to the stab and fin Sand the front half of the fin

reinforcement to blend with the fuse top Also, add lightweight balsa filler to blend the stab to the fuse top.

Building the wing for the PT-60 is pure fun Even if this is

your first kit you won t have any trouble building a beautiful

wing that is true The secret is not to use any glue until

instructed to do so. You will soon see that the structure just about holds itself together without any help, giving you the opportunity to make sure that everything fits perfectly

before making an 'irreversible oops

We mentioned at the front of this manual that you have a choice in the type of wing to build — trainer or sport If this

is your first R/C model, we strongly (read that STRONGLY) recommend that you build the trainer version Aside from the fact that you will need to make some of your own parts to build the sport wing, you will also lose the full benefit of the self-recovery features of this model — features that will help you solo faster and more safely Nuf said

D 1 Carefully press out all the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing

ribs, R-1 through R-5 and the die cut 1/8" balsa wing tips, R-6 Remove any die-cutting fuzz by lightly sanding each

part with 220-grit sandpaper.

D 10. Temporarily install the elevator and rudder with a couple of hinges but still without using any glue Test their operation If necessary, trim the LE of the rudder (where shown in the photo) to clear the elevator by 1/16" Mark the rudder s bottom hinge location on the fuse Remove the rudder, then carefully cut the slit for the hinge in the tail end of the fuse Reattach the rudder to check the hinge alignment

Hang in there You only have to build the wing before you

start covering

D 2 Locate two R-2 ribs and two R-3 ribs Hold an R-2 and R 3 rib together and you will notice that the R-2 rib is longer and narrower than R-3 Without gluing, align the diecut "lightening holes and spar notches then look at the rear section of the ribs The R-2 rib should be inside the R-3 rib by 3/32", along the top and bottom edges, from the spar notches back

D 3 Use thin CA to glue only one set together but make sure they are properly aligned before applying the CA.

Position the second R-3 rib on your workbench exactly as shown — with both of the straight edges touching Glue the other R-2 rib in position on top of R-3 with thin CA. The

object of this fussy way of doing this simple operation is to

be certain that you make one right and one left pair of ribs.

D 4. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" balsa rear center ribs R-1C

to each other with thin CA.

D 5. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" ply front center ribs R-

1A and the die-cut 1/8" balsa front center rib R-1B. Glue these together using 6-minute epoxy, with the balsa rib sandwiched between the two ply ribs.

D 6. Locate the four die-cut 1/8" ply dihedral braces. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue only two of the parts together— then make a second pair.

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

STRAIGHT WING

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

WARPED WING

D D 2. Examine the four grooved 3/8" x 5/8" x 36" main spars for warps. Refer to the sketch above, then divide

them into pairs. Cut only one of the spars to 33-7/8". Without gluing, pin the spar on top of the balsa sheet flush with the rear and outer edges. Use the pinning method shown above at enough locations to hold the spar straight over the plans.

Both wing panels are built directly over the plans. Don't forget to cover the plans with waxed paper before starting. Build the right wing panel first so that your progress will look the same as our photos. Note: For photographic clarity

we took the photos of the framework removed from our

building board, even though we too build over the plans.

D D 1. Cut one 3/32" x 4" x 36" balsa sheet lengthwise along both edges to make it exactly 3-9/16" wide. It's best

to cut both edges to be sure the sides are parallel. Square

off what will be the outboard end with a sanding block, then trim the root end (inboard) so the sheet will be exactly 33-7/8" long. Pin it over the plans, flush with the rear edge of the main spar and the outer edge of R-5.

D D 3. Insert the die-cut 1/8" balsa slotted web into the spar groove. The pointed end is at the outboard R-5 with the slots pointing upward. Insert an R-5 into the end slot, then slide it (and the slotted web) until the rib is flush with the spar end. Remember, don't reach for the glue bottle

until "Simon says."

D D 4. Cut two 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" balsa forward spars

to 33-7/8". Insert one of the forward spars into the square

notch on the bottom of R-5. Align the end of this spar with the end of the balsa sheet. (See the next photo for reference.)

D D 5. Install all remaining ribs from R-2 through R-5. Be sure that the R-2/R-3 laminated rib assembly has the R-2 rib facing the center of the wing. Check that all ribs are fully seated and touching the bottom sheeting.

D D 6. Cut a grooved 3/8" x 5/8" x 36" top main spar to 35-1/8". Carefully press the top grooved main spar and 3/16" forward top spar into position. The outer end of only

the top main spar should extend past the outboard R-5 rib by 1-1/4".

D D 9. Center the R-2 and R-5 ribs vertically between the top and bottom of the TE. A scrap of 3/32" balsa can be used as a shim under the rear portion of these ribs to raise

them to the correct height. Press the LE down to the

building board.

D D 10. Look the frame over carefully to be sure everything is fully pressed into position and aligned with the plans. We are about to start gluing so now is the time to fix any problems.

IMPORTANT: Follow the gluing sequence exactly and don't glue the

sheeting to the bottom of the ribs until after the wing is joined and installed in the washout jig — just tack glue it

to the bottom spar and LE in three or four places. Tack gluing means that you only use a tiny drop of CA to hold the part in position.

D D 7. Separate the shaped 36" balsa leading (LE) and trailing edges (TE) with a sharp hobby knife as shown in the sketch.

D D 8. Notice that the notches on the LE and TE are closer to one end than the other. The shortest distance is positioned toward the R-5 ribs. Carefully fit the LE and TE onto the ribs.

D D 11. Okay, "Simon says, GLUE!" Use thin CA for all points of contact (except the bottom sheeting) starting with the notches along the TE. Press or hold all of the parts in position as you apply the CA. Move on to the main spar and slotted web, the rib/spar joints and the LE.

D D 12. Remove the pins holding the wing panel to your building board. Hold it with the LE pointing down, then wick

thin CA into the top main spar / slotted web joint from both

sides of the web. Notice that we use a tubular CA applicator

tip (Hobbico HCAR3780) on our CA bottle. Applicator tips

help control thin CA placement and are a cheap and handy

item to have around the shop.

D D 13. Use a razor saw and sanding block to trim the inboard end of the LE and TE even with the centerline on

the plans.

That's one wing panel down and looking mighty sassy I

might add! Don't just sit there admiring your handiwork, you

still have work to do. Slap some waxed paper on the other

half of the wing plan, then repeat steps 1 -13 to build the left wing panel. You can rest later.

IF YOU ARE BUILDING THE TRAINER VERSION, SKIP THIS INSTRUCTION AND PROCEED TO STEP1.

If you are building the Sport Wing, use the patterns on the wing plan to cut two new spar joiners, four dihedral braces, LE and TE joiner and a dihedral angle gauge. Materials for these parts are specified on

the plans but are not included in this kit. Follow exactly the same steps but substitute your new parts for the die-cut ones.

D 2. Sand the root (inboard) edges of both wing panels to match the dihedral angle you drew. It's helpful to make an oversized sanding block for this operation, so that you will sand each part simultaneously and evenly. When you check the fit at the center of the wing you must raise one wing tip 6-1/2" for the "Trainer wing" or 4" for the "Sport wing". Support the tip on a stack of books to be sure everything will line up and fit flush. Take your time and try to get all the parts sanded to the correct length and angle, so

they all butt together when the wing is joined.

Modify the washout Jigs for only the sport wing as follows:

Draw a straight line through the punch marks on the diecut 1/8" ply washout jigs, then cut off the bottom portion of the jigs on the lines. Hold both of the top halves together to make sure they are identical. If not, use a sanding block to even them up.

The wing panels need to be realigned on the plans and pinned to the building board for the next step.

D 3. Draw a centerline on each of the dihedral braces, LE and TE joiners and the center joiners.

D 1. Working over the plans, hold the die-cut 1/8" ply

dihedral gauge (DG) in contact with the LE, spars, and TE, with the "arrow" pointing up and the rounded corner toward rib R-2. The bottom outside corner must be even with the bottom outside corner of each part as shown in the

photo. Mark the dihedral angle on each part. Repeat for the other wing panel. Remove the wing panels from the board.

D 4. Without glue. test fit the dihedral braces on each side of the slotted web, the spar joiners on both sides of the spars, the front rib assembly, and the LE joiner. Carefully

plug the other wing panel into the first wing assembly.

Examine the joint carefully. There should be no gaps

between any of the parts, especially the main top and bottom spars. If necessary, make small corrections with a sanding block, checking progress regularly to avoid "over correcting."

A Put the R-1 rib assembly in position between the spars and the LE of one wing panel Draw two lines on the end of the LE to match the spacing and angle of the slot in the R-1 ribs.

B Wrap a piece of 150-grit sandpaper around one of the 5/16" dowels included in this kit, then sand half the diameter of the dowel hole in the end of the LE.

C. Repeat steps A and B for the other wing panel.

Refer to this photo when doing steps 6-9

D 6. Mix about 1/4 ounce of 30-minute epoxy Coat one side of a dihedral brace with epoxy, then install it between the spars, against one side of a web The centerline you drew should be even with the edges of the spars and web.

Repeat for the other dihedral brace on the opposite side of the web.

D 7 Coat one side of a spar joiner with epoxy, then slide it into place Once again the centerline should be aligned with the ends of the spars Install the other spar joiner in the same manner Clamp the spar joiners in position and recheck the alignment.

D 8. Coat one half of one side of the LE and TE joiners, then clamp them in position to the inside of the LE and TE.

D 9 Apply epoxy to the front, bottom and rear edges of the front center rib assembly, R 1 Insert it between the two 3/16" spars over the sheeting Be sure that it is centered so that it will overlap the other wing panel's sheeting.

D 5. You will need several small C-clamps (or modeling clamps) and a few clothespins for the next few steps Clear a space long enough to accommodate the soon to be joined wing.

IMPORTANT: Dry fit the entire joiner assembly before actually repeating the operation with epoxy. Test fit the clamps and clothespins so you will know where to put them.

Remember, the bottom sheeting should still only be tack glued in position.

D 10 Apply epoxy to the inside ends of the spars and also

the LE and TE Carefully slide the second wing panel all the way into position Raise one tip 6-1/2" (4" for the sport wing) and support it on books while you clamp the wing panels together Check to make sure that the LE and TE are aligned, then pin them to each other to hold their position Check the bottom of the wing to be sure that the bottom sheeting matches.

D 11 Clean off any epoxy "messes" with a paper towel

moistened with rubbing alcohol before it has a chance to cure Even though it can be handled sooner, it's best to let the wing cure overnight before removing the clamps and weights.

Here's your chance to get some sleep, so rest while you can There s still lots more to do!

HOW TO MAKE "SOFT WEIGHTS"

Weights are needed for a variety of purposes during the model building process, especially when setting wing washout or if you need an extra pair of hands We made some 2 and 3 pound "soft weights" for use in our shop

as follows: A. Obtain four small, but sturdy plastic bags (freezer

bags work well), four old tube socks (preferably

laundered), and 10 pounds of buckshot, available at sporting goods or gun stores Sand can also be used, but the weights become pretty bulky.

B Use a scale to measure out two 2lb bags and two 3lb bags of shot (or sand) Seal the bags with masking tape, without compressing the contents Soft weights work best if they are floppy like bean-bags.

D 2 Trim off the protruding end of the top spar to match the angle of the slotted web as shown, or sand it flush with 80-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.

D 3 Follow the expert tip shown below to join three 3/32" x 2-3/4" x 36" balsa sheets together to make an 8-1/4" wide skin.

HOW TO MAKE A BALSA SKIN

C Put the sealed bags into the tube socks, then tie a knot in the socks to prevent them from leaking all over your bench.

D 1 Use 6 minute epoxy to install the laminated center rib R-1A on the centerline of the wing between the spar

joiner and the TE joiner.

After the epoxy has cured, use the hole you sanded in the LE ends as a guide to drill through the ply LE joiner with a 5/16" bit Test fit the dowel fully into the slot in the

R-1A rib assembly.

A. True up the edges of the sheets with a metal

straightedge and a sharp knife or a long sanding block.

B. Test fit the sheets together to make sure they

match well.

C. METHOD "A": Edge glue the sheets together with

thin CA over a flat surface covered with waxed paper. A quick wipe of the joint with a fresh paper towel will remove excess glue and make sanding easier Mark the poorest surface that you think should be the inside of the sheet with an "I".

METHOD "B": Edge glue the sheets together with Great Planes Pro Wood Glue Smear the glue lightly along an edge with your finger, then join the sheets

over a flat (waxed paper covered) building board Pin the sheets to the board to hold them together Wipe off any excess glue before it dries Pro Wood Glue is easier to sand and won't leave a ridge at each seam, as CA is prone to do.

D. Place the skin on a large flat surface and sand it with

a large, flat sanding block and fresh, sharp 220-grit sandpaper Use light pressure and a brisk circular motion.

E. Trim the perimeter of the sheet to square things up

D 4. Cut two 3-1/2" x 8-1/4" pieces from the "skin" you just

made. The wood grain must run in the 3-1/2" direction. Turn the wing upside down (so that you are looking at the bottom side), then trim the two skins to fit between the spar and the TE, covering the two R-5 ribs at both wing tips. One edge of the skin should be flush with the outboard side of the outer R-5 rib. Glue the skins in place with medium CA.

D 5. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" balsa R-6 wing tips, position them as shown (to make a right and a left), then draw a line 3/16" from the straightedge as shown.

D 9. Use a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper as shown, to sand a bevel on the top edge of the R-6 wing tip to match the height of the top of the R-5 ribs. Keep light pressure on the R-5 ribs but don't sand through the masking tape. NOTE: The R-6 wing tips must be 3/32" below the top edge of the LE and TE, just like the R-5 ribs.

D 10. Cut and sand the LE and TE tips to match the angle of the wing tip.

D 6. Sand a bevel on both R-6s from the bottom corner of the straight edge to the line.

D 7. Check the fit of the R-6 wing tips. Glue the R-6s in position with thin CA, flush with the bottom edge of the wing sheeting. It won't hurt anything if the front bottom sheeting gets glued in the process.

D 8. Important: Apply two thicknesses of masking tape on the top edge of both R-5 ribs. This will help prevent them from being sanded during the next step.

D 11. Locate the two 1-1/2" x 36" wedge shaped

ailerons. Cut one 3-1/4" piece from each aileron to use as TE tips. Check that the bottom surface of each TE tip is

flush with the bottom sheeting when the TE tip is pressed against the wing tip. If necessary, lightly sand the forward edge of the TE tip to correct the problem. Glue the TE tips to the TE with medium CA. Sand the outboard ends flush

with the angle of the wing tips.

D 12. Tack glue (remember, only a couple drops of thin CA) the die-cut 1/8" ply washout jigs under both wing tips at the location of the outboard R-5 ribs. Turn the wing right side up, then add enough weights to hold the washout jigs and wing firmly on your workbench. (Read the explanation of "washout" on page 47.)

D 13. Wick thin CA under only the bottom spars and the bottom edge of the ribs from one end of the wing to the other, gluing the bottom sheeting from the inside of the structure. Gently press up on the sheeting from underneath the wing to keep it in contact with the ribs. Glue the sheeting to the LE from the inside with thick CA.

D 14. If necessary, lightly sand the tops of the wing ribs to even them up. Make sure there are no glue bumps or imperfections that will prevent the sheeting from fitting well.

BEVEL THE SHEETING AS SHOWN

D 15. Trim a 3/32" x 4" x 36" balsa top LE sheet to 3-7/8"

wide. Sand a slight bevel along one edge, then test fit the

sheet (beveled end forward) between the LE and the rear edge of the top spar. Sand the root end of the sheet to fit evenly on the centerline of R-1.

D 19. Cut two 5" x 8-1/4" pieces from the sheeting skin you made earlier. The grain runs across the 5" width. Cut these skins to fit between the spar and the TE on top of the

R-5 ribs. Glue them to the ribs and wing tips with medium CA, leaving 1/8" overhanging both R-5 and R-6. Trim and sand the sheeting flush with the R-6 tips.

D 16. Hold the sheet tightly against the LE, then wick thin CA into the joint along its full length. Wipe off any excess

CA before it cures.

D 17. Gently lift up on the sheeting. Then, working quickly, apply a bead of thick CA to the top of each rib and the spars. Roll the sheet into position and hold it there, applying even pressure with a 36" straightedge until the CA cures.

D 20. Cut two 4-9/16" x 8-1/4" pieces from the sheeting skin. The grain runs across the 4-9/16" width. Cut these skins to fit the top center of the wing, from the "ledge" at R-2 / R-3 to the center of R-1 C. Work carefully with a sanding block to obtain a neat joint at the center. Glue the skins in position with medium CA.

D 21. Remove the wing from the wing tip jigs and sand off any glue residue.

D 22. Referring to the plans for the shape, round off the LE to blend nicely with the tip.

D 18. Cut and fit the sheeting for the LE of the other wing panel. Try for a nice butt fit at the center by careful sanding and testing. Glue the sheet in position as you did in steps

and

17.

D 1. Saw through the thin portion of the bottom of R-1 C and remove the piece.

D 2. Test fit the two die-cut 1/8" ply servo tray supports to the notched front and rear of R-1 C. Insert the die-cut 1/8" ply aileron servo tray into the shallow notches on the top end of the supports. The tray must be flush with the top of the

rib.

D 3. When satisfied with the fit, glue the parts in position

with medium CA.

D 2. Hold the wing center TE against the aft edge of the

wing, aligned with the wing's centerline. Mark the torque

rod notches on the bottom of the wing.

D 3. Cut shallow notches on the bottom rear edge of the wing to allow the torque rods to move freely.

D 4. Sand a slight angle on the inboard edge of the two wing center TE to permit the two pieces to fit flush when matched to the dihedral angle.

D 4. Cut two 4-5/8" x 8-1/4" pieces from the remaining sheeting skin. The grain runs across the 4-5/8" width. Cut these skins to fit the bottom center of the wing, from the "ledge" at R-2/R-3 to the center of R-1 C. Work carefully with a sanding block to obtain a neat joint at the center. Glue one skin in position with medium CA, then cut "half" of the opening for the servo. Glue in the other half of the sheeting, then finish cutting the servo opening. Remove about 1/4" of balsa sheeting from the front and rear ends of the servo openings to allow the servo to fit flat on the ply tray.

Perform the following steps to complete both wing panels.

D 1. Position the tapered and grooved 1-1/2" x 2-3/4" balsa wing center TE pieces over the plans and mark the location of the aileron torque rod exits. Cut a notch in the bottom forward edge of each piece as shown in the photo.

D 5. Sand the nylon surface of both torque rod tubes with coarse sandpaper to roughen them up for better glue adhesion.

D 6. Slide the nylon torque rod tubes as far as they will go toward the threaded end of the wire torque rods.

D 7. Using a toothpick, apply a small amount of petroleum jelly (Vaseline, etc.) around the torque rods where they enter and exit the nylon tubes. This procedure will help prevent the torque rod from "locking up" during the next step.

D 8. Apply some 30-minute epoxy to the nylon tubes, staying clear of the tube's ends. Insert the tubes into the grooves of the wing center TE. Using a tissue, wipe off any epoxy that may squeeze out. Apply epoxy to the forward and inboard edges of the wing center TE pieces, then glue them in position as shown. Use masking tape to hold the wing center TE in position while the epoxy cures.

D 9. While holding an aileron against the inside edge of the wing center TE, draw a line on it that matches the inside edge of the wing tip TE. Cut the aileron 1/8" shorter than the TE opening to allow for covering material.

D 10. Hold the aileron in position, centered in the aileron opening, then mark the location of the torque rod arms. Extend your marks to the front edge of the aileron.

D 13. Sand the forward edges of the ailerons to a "V". Refer to the cross section of the wing on the plans for the

desired angle.

D 14. Refer to the plans, then mark the location of the aileron's hinges. Without using glue, temporarily install the hinges using the same method as when you installed the rudder and elevator.

D 15. Carefully "crack" the die-cut 1/16" ply TE plate along its scored centerline. Try not to break the piece in two. Fit the TE plate on top of the wing at the TE on the centerline. If needed, sand the edges to fit flush with the sides and rear of the center wing TE. Use 6-minute epoxy

to glue it in position.

D 11. Draw a centerline along the entire front edge of the aileron. Drill a 1/8" hole 3/4" deep into the center of your "torque rod" mark to accept the torque rod arm.

D 12. Cut a groove from the hole you drilled to the inboard edge of the aileron. HINT: Using a hobby knife, sharpen the inside of one end of a 1/8" diameter brass tube, then use it to cut the groove in the leading edge of the aileron.

D 15. Cut a 2-1/2" long LE wing dowel from one of the 5/16" x 6" hardwood dowels. Round off both ends slightly. Use a thin stick to apply 6-minute epoxy to the inside of the slot in rib R-1 and the hole in the LE. Insert the wing dowel through the LE into the slot in R-1 and allow the epoxy to cure.

D 16. Use a 5/16" drill to angle the hole in F-2

downward to match the angle of the wing dowel. Test fit the wing in the wing saddle. It must sit flat on top of the fuse — if not, elongate the hole in F-2 slightly, until a good fit is obtained.

ALIGN THE WING

A=A

(FROM WINGTIP TO FIN)

D 17. Align the wing by using a string or tape measure to equalize the distance from each wing tip to the TE of the fin. Once aligned, lightly draw matching reference marks on the ply TE plate and the fuse top (See photo at step 19.) Remove the wing.

while holding the drill so the bit is perpendicular to the

top surface of the wing. Use a hardwood "backup" to

prevent the ply TE plate from splintering. CAUTION: Keep your fingers out of the way and stop drilling as soon as you feel the drill cut through the TE plate. Enlarge the holes with a round file if needed, then test fit the wing using the bolts.

Well, you are through the framing stage and you've given life to a box of balsa. Looks pretty neat, eh? Time to clean up your workbench once again, have a soda, and forge ahead to the "finishing" stage.

D 18. Sharpen the tips of both nylon wing bolts to a point as shown. Screw the bolts through the blind nuts from underneath the wing bolt plate. The points should be 1/8" above the height of the wing saddle.

D 19. Plug the wing dowel into F-2 and gently lower the

TE. After the wing is aligned with your reference marks,

press down on the TE to mark the bolt hole locations by "dimpling" the TE with the sharpened wing bolts.

D 20. Remove the wing, then drill 1/4" (or 17/64" if you

have that size bit) holes through the TE at both marks,

REPAIRING SURFACE "DINGS"

Many surface blemishes on a framed model are caused by bumps and balsa chips on the work surface. This type of ding is best repaired by applying a drop or two of window cleaner or tap water to the blemish, then running a hot sealing iron over the spot to expand the wood fibers. After the surface has dried, sand the expanded area smooth.

D 1. Fill any scuffs, dings and the forward end of the pushrod tube exit slots with balsa filler (Hobbico HobbyLite

HCAR3401 recommended). After the filler has hardened, cut and sand the pushrod tubes flush with the fuse sides, then sand the entire structure with progressively finer grades of sandpaper, ending with 320-grit. When you think the job looks good, sand some more to make it better. You'll be glad you did.

Fuelproofing may be done either before or after covering.

D 1 Fuelproof the engine and fuel compartments by painting them with K&B Superpoxy paint or 30 minute epoxy Pay special attention to the firewall Prevent paint or epoxy from clogging the blind nuts by first packing the holes with petroleum jelly applied with a toothpick Be sure to clean off any external petroleum jelly messes with rubbing alcohol before fuel proofing.

SPECIAL NOTE: Do not confuse this procedure with "checking the C.G." or "balancing the airplane fore and aft." That very important step will be covered later in the manual.

Now that you have the basic airframe nearly completed, this is a good time to balance the airplane laterally (sideto-side) Here is how to do it.

D 1 Temporarily attach the wing, engine (with muffler), and landing gear to the fuselage.

D 2 With the wing level, lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the fin (this may require two people) Do

this several times.

D 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means that side is heavy Balance the airplane by gluing a weight to the inside of the other wing tip

NOTE: An airplane that has been laterally balanced will

track better in loops and other maneuvers

Expert Tip COVERING TECHNIQUE

You can practically eliminate wrinkles in MonoKote covering that sometimes occur when the model is left out

in the sun or in the back of your car by following this

technique used in the Great Planes model shop A. Cover your sealing iron shoe with a Top Flite Hot

Sock and turn the heat about 3/4 of the way to the high setting Note: If this is not hot enough to make the covering stick well, increase the heat

B When covering areas that involve sharp junctions,

like the tail section, cut narrow strips (3/8" to 1/2") and apply them in the corners before covering the major surfaces The larger pieces of MonoKote will

overlap and capture these smaller pieces This technique also bypasses the need to cut the MonoKote in these areas after it has been applied

DO NOT, under any circumstances, attempt to cut the covering material after it has been applied to the fin and stab, except around the leading and trailing edges and the tip. Modelers

who do this often cut through the covering and partway into the balsa stab This can weaken the stab to the point where it may fail in flight'

C For example here is how to cover the Stab cut a

piece of MonoKote film about 2" larger all around Strip off the backing and position the film flush with

the fuse side, over the MonoKote corner strip Tack the film down at the center of the stab/fuse junction

The PT-60 does not require any painting to obtain the

scheme shown on the box, as all of the finish is done with

Top Flite MonoKote Covering The only painting that is

required is the engine compartment if you so choose

Make sure the structure is smoothly sanded with 320- grit sandpaper Remove all dust from the structure with a vacuum cleaner and Top Flite Tack Cloth so the

MonoKote will stick well

Cover the aircraft with MonoKote covering using the sequence that follows Make sure the film is thoroughly adhered to the structure and all of the edges are sealed. Use a Top Flite MonoKote Hot Sock" on your covering iron to avoid scratching the surface of the covering.

D. Pull (as in stretch) the film toward the stab tip, sealing

it to the balsa from the fuse outward, the width of your sealing iron Work out any wrinkles and air

pockets as you proceed with a back and forth motion

E. Stretch the MonoKote covering toward the four

corners, sealing it down as you proceed. The trick

is to shrink out any wrinkles before you seal the film to the surface

F Use a heat gun to heat and stretch the film around curved surfaces like the stab and rudder tips, while pulling on the excess material You may need to pull hard to get out all of the wrinkles, so wear a glove if you need to Trim off the excess, then follow-up with your sealing iron to secure the bond The idea behind this approach (which can be applied to any part of the model) is to pre-stretch the covering as it's applied, and remove the air pockets that can expand later which cause the sags and wrinkles

D 1. Tail Junction Strips as described above D 2 Rudder left side D 3 Rudder right side D 4 Bottom of elevators D 5 Top of elevators D 6 Stab bottom D 7 Stab top D 8 Fin left side D 9 Fin right side D 10 Fuse bottom D 11 Fuse sides D 12 Fuse top

D 13 Ends of ailerons D 14 Bottom of ailerons D 15 Top of ailerons D 16 TE surfaces of wing D 17 Bottom of left wing panel D 18 Bottom of right wing panel (overlap covering

1/4" at the center)

D 19 Top of left wing panel (overlap covering 1/4" at

wing LE)

D 20. Top of right wing panel (overlap covering 1/4" at

the LE and at the center)

D 21 Tank Hatch

Applying windows

D 1 Attach the elevator to the stab with five hinges and thin CA using the technique described in the Expert Tip section on page 11, step "D" After the CA has cured, flex the elevator to check for free movement.

D 2 Install the rudder using four hinges and thin CA. D 3 Roughen the aileron torque rod "arm" with coarse

sandpaper for better glue adhesion Clean the arm with rubbing alcohol to remove skin oils or any leftover petroleum jelly.

D 4 Use a toothpick to pack the torque rod holes in the

ailerons with 30-minute epoxy, then install the ailerons

using four hinges and thin CA Be sure to clean off any

excess epoxy from the hinge line with a paper towel

moistened with rubbing alcohol

...................

D 1 Seat the wire landing gear in the groove on the

bottom of the fuse Use a nylon landing gear strap as a guide to drill 1/16" pilot holes for the screws Secure it with two nylon straps and four #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws

D 2 Enlarge the wheel hub axle holes of all three wheels with a 13/64" (or #9) drill bit and electric drill

#2 x 3/8"

.........Nylon Landing Gear Strap (2)

Sheet

Metal

Screw (4)

Use the patterns on the fuse plan to cut the window shapes from a black self-adhesive MonoKote Trim Sheet After cutting the pieces to size, wipe the area to be covered with soapy water A couple of drops of dish detergent to a cup of water is sufficient Peel the backing from the MonoKote Trim Sheet, then 'float' it into position Wrap a paper towel around a credit card (or something similar), then squeegee over the area to remove the water Only work in one direction, blotting moisture after each pass.

...................3/16" wheel collar (4)

(Set screw and wheel collar not included )

D 3 Install the two 3" wheels (not included) on the main landing gear using four 3/16" wheel collars (not included). Grind or file a flat spot in the landing gear wire at the point of set screw contact for each of the outer collars This provides a better area for the set screw to bite and helps keep the wheels in place

(Refer to this photo when performing the following

steps.)

D 4 Slide the 3/16" steering arm over the top end of the

nose gear wire.

D 5 Insert the nose gear wire into the bottom hole of the

engine mount, and out through the top hole

D 6 Slide a 3/16" wheel collar onto the top end of the wire.

D 7 Check that the nose gear spring coil clears the bottom of the fuse, then tighten the wheel collar and steering arm on both sides of the engine mount as shown

in the photo This will lock the nose gear in position NOTE:

After the radio has been installed and the nose gear aligned, you will need to file or grind a flat spot (see

page 40 for Expert Tip on Flat Spots) on the wire to prevent the steering arm from moving from its "set" position.

D 12 Install the engine and muffler, prop, spinner, and

tank Don't worry about putting the prop and spinner on

permanently at this stage Install the tank hatch cover with

three #2 x 3/8" screws

D 1 Cut four servo tray doublers from scrap ply left over

from the die-cut sheets Make two 3/8" x 2-1/2" and two

3/8" x 1" Glue these to the servo tray with medium CA as

shown in the photo.

D 8 Install the 2 3/4" nose wheel with two 3/16" wheel collars (not supplied).

D 9 Enlarge the outer hole in the steering arm by drilling with a 5/64" bit.

D 10 Make a 90 degree bend in the unthreaded nose wheel steering pushrod wire 3/8" from one end Insert the straight end of the pushrod into the outer tube, then work the bent section into the enlarged hole in the steering arm.

D 11 Position the nose wheel straight ahead and the axle perpendicular to the fuse centerline Loosen the steering arm Then, while holding the nose wheel straight, rotate the steering arm slightly ahead of the nose gear axle centerline Refer to the top view of the fuse plan for the required angle. This position will enable you to turn left, as well as right Test the linkage for free movement

MOUNTING SERVOS

The proper way to mount a servo is as follows' A. Insert a rubber grommet into each of the four

servo notches

B Insert a metal eyelet from the bottom of the rubber

grommet This way the wide portion of the eyelet will be in contact with the servo tray when mounted

C. Test fit the servo in the tray, and enlarge the openings

so the servo will not touch the tray The rubber grommets will isolate the servo from the hard vibration of the airplane's structure

D. Position the servo, then mark the location of the

mounting holes Drill pilot holes with a 1/16" bit at each mark

E. Use the servo screws supplied with your radio to

mount the servo(s) in the servo tray Tighten the screws until they are secure against the top of the metal eyelets, but without crushing the eyelets

D 2. Mount three servos in the die-cut 1/8" ply servo tray following the manufacturer's recommendations. Position

them as shown in the sketch for the type of engine you will be using. Install "cross" style horns on all servos.

Place the servo tray on the lower ply fuse doublers toward the rear of the cabin. Lay your receiver and battery on the "floor" toward the front of the cabin. Do not glue anything into position yet, as we want to be able to move things around to balance the model.

photo for step 3). Make a second pushrod assembly exactly the same as the first.

D 5. Refer to the plans to determine which side the elevator and rudder pushrods will exit the fuse.

INCORRECT CORRECT

D 6. Insert the pushrods into the tubes in the fuse, then hold a horn in position on either the elevator or rudder (see sketch above for correct alignment). The pushrod should not be bent and should slide easily in the tube. Mark the location for the horn screws on the control surface.

...................Nylon Clevis (1)

D 3. Slide a silicone retainer over the "hex" end of a nylon clevis. Screw the clevis 14 turns onto the threaded end of a 36" wire pushrod. Cut six 1/4" bushings from the plastic inner pushrod tube provided in the kit. Slide the bushings on the wire pushrod, spacing them as shown on

the plans. Do not shorten the pushrod wires yet, as you

may need to move the servo tray forward of the location shown to balance the model. Be sure that the bushings on each end are "in" far enough so that they won't come out

of the pushrod tubes and cause the control to lock in

position. If they are too loose, put a drop of thin CA on the pushrod wire at each bushing to hold them in place. Make

sure the CA is fully hardened before inserting the pushrods into the tubes.

2-56 x 5/8" machine screw

...................Nylon Control Horn (2)

D 4. Trim the backing plate from a nylon control horn,

then clip the clevis to the outer hole of the horn (refer to the

D 7. Drill 3/32" horn screw holes through the control surface, then screw the horn in place with two 2-56 machine screws and the backing plate. Repeat for the other control surface.

D 8. If you will be using one, test fit the aileron servo in the bottom of the wing. Remove about 1/4" of balsa sheeting from both ends of the servo opening to allow the servo to fit flat on the ply servo tray.

ELEV.

THROT.

DRILL WITH

5/64"

BIT

RUD.

SERVO HORN GUIDE

CUTOFF

UNUSED

ARMS

D 9. Prepare three "cross" style servo horns as follows:

A. Cut three arms from two horns These two single arm

horns will be used for the elevator and throttle

B. Drill a 5/64" hole through the second hole from the outer

end of the elevator servo horn.

D 10. Connect the receiver to the servos, switch, and

battery Turn on your transmitter and receiver, then center the elevator, rudder and aileron servo trim levers on the transmitter This will center the splined servo output shafts.

Install the three servo horns you prepared on the servos in the fuse Put them on the splined servo output shafts, in the positions shown in the photo. Turn the radio

off-receiver first, then the transmitter.

Because it's helpful to be able to move the servo tray when

balancing the model

we'II

stop installation

the radio

this point, then resume after the model is balanced

Note: Although you have not yet trimmed the pushrod wires to their final length, they should be temporarily installed in the fuselage while balancing the model in the

next steps.

NOTE: This section is VERY important and must NOT be omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.

C. Install a screw lock pushrod connector in the second

hole from the outer end of the throttle servo arm. Don't install the retainer until the throttle's operation has been tested.

D Cut two opposite arms off the third servo horn to make

one "long" arm.

E Drill a 5/64" hole through the second hole from the outer

end for the rudder pushrod Install a screw lock pushrod connector, including the retainer, on the opposite arm in the second hole from the outer end Your nose wheel steering pushrod will attach to this connector.

D 1. Install the wing with rubber bands or bolts Accurately

mark the balance point on the bottom of the wing on both sides of the fuselage The balance point is shown on the plan and is located 4-1/8" (105 mm) back from the leading edge. This is the balance point at which your model

should balance for your first flights Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the balance up to 1/4" forward or back to change the flying characteristics Moving the

balance forward may improve the smoothness and arrowlike tracking but it may then require more speed for takeoff

and make it more difficult to slow down for landing Moving the balance aft makes the model more agile with a lighter and snappier feel In any case, please start at the location

we recommend and do not at any time balance your model outside the recommended range.

D 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage and an empty fuel tank, lift the model at the balance point. If the tail drops when you lift, the model is "tail heavy" and you must move weight toward the nose to balance. If the nose drops, it's "nose heavy" and you must move weight toward the tail to balance.

Balance the model by changing the position of the

servo tray, receiver battery, and receiver, then retesting. When balance is obtained, securely glue the servo tray to the fuse doublers. Cut off the rudder and

elevator pushrod tubes 2" - 3" short of reaching the servos. Note the location of the battery and receiver for permanent installation later in the finishing process.

IMPORTANT: After the model is 100% complete, recheck the balance. Move the battery, if needed, to balance the model before flight.

channel 1). This way you will develop the feel for flying as you would with ailerons, using the right-hand control stick

for most of your control.

D 4. Insert the nose wheel steering pushrod into the screw lock pushrod connector, then center the nose wheel.

Install and tighten down the socket head screw and test the steering. When the rudder moves to the right, the nose wheel should also move to the right. Make sure the nose gear steering arm does not bind against the firewall when the rudder stick is pushed fully to the left.

D 1. Center the elevator, then mark the pushrod where it crosses the enlarged servo horn hole.

D 2. Make a 90-degree bend in the pushrod on your mark, then insert it through the enlarged hole. Secure it in place with a nylon Faslink as shown in the sketch. Cut off any excess wire 1/8" above the Faslink. Caution: Wear safety glasses whenever you cut wire!

D 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the rudder. NOTE: If you

will only be using three channels, plug the rudder servo

into the aileron socket in your receiver (usually

D 5. Pull the throttle control stick and trim lever on your

transmitter to the fully "back" or closed position. Hook up the throttle using the pushrod you made earlier. Insert the pushrod through the screw lock pushrod connector, then

install the horn on the servo so that it points toward the tail

of the model at about a 30-degree angle as shown. Don't

install the locking screw yet.

D 6. Pull the throttle pushrod toward the tail to fully close the throttle. Install the locking screw in the connector, tightening it slightly. Move the throttle trim lever and watch the carburetor to see if it opens slightly. If the servo does not move (just sits there buzzing), you need to flip the "Servo Reversing Switch" on your transmitter. If it works properly,

open the throttle all the way with the main control stick. If the

throttle opens all the way but the pushrod bends (or the

servo buzzes), move the connector toward the center of the

servo horn to decrease the amount of throw. When the throttle works properly, install the retainer on the bottom of the connector post to secure it in position. Tighten the connector screw, and install the servo horn screw.

D 7. Wrap your receiver with 1/4" thick foam rubber. Secure the foam with a couple of rubber bands. The foam

rubber acts as a shock and vibration absorber. Position the

receiver where it was when you balanced the model, then glue a scrap of ply over the top of it to hold it in position. Follow the same procedure to mount the battery.

D 8. Route the receiver antenna through the antenna tube along the bottom of the fuse. If there is excess antenna length, it should exit the back end of the fuselage and trail behind.

D 10. Drill two 5/64" holes in a large round servo horn as shown on the wing plan for use with the ailerons. The odd placement of the holes will cause the ailerons to have "differential" travel. This means that they won't move down as much as up—an aid to making smooth turns. Take a minute to read the explanations of "Adverse Yaw" and "Differential Throw" on pages 44 and 45.

Great Planes switch/charging jack mount (GPMM1000).

(Not included.)

D 9. Mount the receiver switch and charging jack through the fuselage on the opposite side of the fuse from the muffler exhaust. We suggest using a Great Planes switch/charging jack mount (GPMM1000) because of its ease of installation and tidy appearance.

D 11. Screw a 6" threaded pushrod 14 revolutions into a nylon swivel clevis. Screw a nylon swivel onto one of the aileron torque rods so that the centerline of the swivel is 3/4" from the surface of the wing. Snap the swivel clevis onto the swivel. Repeat this operation for the other

torque rod.

D 12. Plug the aileron servo into your receiver, then center it and the round servo horn as you have done with the

other controls.

NOTE:

functional ailerons, skip ahead to step 15.

you

will

only

using 3 channels

without

D 13. Center the ailerons, then mark both pushrods directly over their respective holes in the servo horn.

Remove the pushrods by unsnapping the clevises. Use the

following sequence of photos to make a Z-bend in each

pushrod or use a Z-bend pliers.

Make a mark 3/16" from the first mark.

Make a 90 bend at the outside mark.

Make a 90 degree bend at the inside mark.

D 14. Insert the Z-bends into the servo horn and reattach the swivel clevises. Mount the horn on the servo and test the aileron's operation.

D 15. Screw a 6" threaded pushrod 14 revolutions into a nylon swivel clevis. Screw a nylon swivel onto one of the aileron torque rods so that 1/4" of thread protrudes above the top of the swivel. Snap the swivel clevis onto the swivel. Repeat this operation for the other torque rod.

Twist the pushrod straight.

Cut any extra wire off the ends and sand or file the burrs off

of the ends to prevent scratching yourself later.

5-5/8"

D 16. Mark both wire pushrods exactly 5-5/8" from the back end of both clevises. Use the instructions at step 13 to make Z-bends at the mark on both pushrods or use a Zbend pliers.

D 17. Drill two 5/64" holes through the punch marks on the

die-cut 1/8" ply aileron lock. Insert the Z-bends into these

holes, then position the aileron lock on the servo tray.

D 18. Temporarily lock both ailerons in position with popsicle sticks and clothespins as shown. Drill a 1/16" hole through both ends of the aileron lock into the side rails of the servo tray. Enlarge the holes in only the aileron lock with a 3/32" drill bit.

D 19 Use two #2 x 3/8" screws to secure the aileron lock

in position Remove the popsicle sticks and clothespins If you decide to install a servo at a later date, simply install the servo in place of the aileron lock The location of the Z-bends should work with most servos to provide the correct setup as described in steps 10-14 of this section

D 20 Go back and check your installation. Be sure that all servo screws, horns and other components are secure

4-CHANNEL RADIO SET-UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

D 21 Apply a strip of 1/16" thick foam wing-seating tape (Great Planes GPMQ4422 recommended) to the top edges of the wing saddle area of the fuselage This tape provides a positive seal against dirt and exhaust oil, and cushions the wing from vibration

D 22 Check the direction of all control functions They must all move in the direction shown in the following sketches If not, change the position of the reversing switches on your transmitter

3-CHANNEL RADIO SET-UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

We recommend the following control surface throws:

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT NOSEWHEEL MOVES RIGHT

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

NOTE: Control throw (movement) is measured at the

widest part of the elevator, rudder and ailerons Hold a

ruler vertically on your workbench or block it up on books to perform these measurements:

SINGLE RATE TRANSMITTER

The following throws* are for a transmitter that does not have Dual Rates.

ELEVATOR: 1/2" up 1/2" down RUDDER: 3/4" right 3/4" left AILERONS: 7/16" up 5/16" down

DUAL RATE TRANSMITTER

"Dual Rate" is a feature on some radios which allows you to switch the control surface throws in flight This lets

you change the responsiveness of your model with

regard to the maneuvers you are doing

The following throws* are for a transmitter equipped for

Dual Rate servo control. ELEVATOR:

(High Rate) 5/8" up (Low Rate) 3/8" up

5/8" down 3/8" down

D 1 "Eyeball" the side of the fuselage from 6-10 feet away Adjust the height of the nose by raising or lowering the nosegear wire so that your model will sit nearly level, as shown in the Good Stance sketch

May be difficult to

rotate on takeoff.

RUDDER:

AILERONS:

*The elevator and rudder throw can be adjusted as shown below.

NOTE: The balance and surface throws for this aircraft have been extensively tested. We are confident that they represent the settings at which

the PT-60 flies best. Please set up your aircraft to the

specifications listed above. If, after a few flights, you would like to adjust the throws to suit your taste, that's fine. Remember, "more is not better."

3/4" right (High Rate)

(Low Rate)

3/4" left 1/2" up

3/8"

3/8" down 1/4" down

movement

NOSE TOO HIGH

Sticks to the runway after

landing.

Will lift off easily

on takeoff.

Lands predictably

and stays put on

runway.

Tends to lift-off

automatically on

takeoff.

May bounce and

become airborne

during landing.

Moving the clevis outward on the servo arm results in more pushrod movement.

Moving the clevis inward on the control horn results in more throw

D 2 Once the correct ground stance is established, grind or file a 'flat spot on the nosegear wire to lock the steering arm in position (See below.)

NOSE GEAR FLAT SPOT

When everything is aligned and the model sits correctly, tighten the 6-32 x 3/16" machine screw on the steering arm tight enough to leave a mark on the nose gear wire Remove the nose gear from the engine mount and remove the steering arm assembly

As mentioned, a flat spot or "flat" is required on the nosegear wire This flat allows the nose gear steering arm to positively lock onto the nose gear wire, providing

a "no-slip" steering linkage

Remove the steering arm from the nose gear wire and locate the mark left by the 6-32 x 3/16" machine screw Now, with the mark facing up, clamp the nose gear in a vise and use the side of a flat file or a Dremel'" Moto-Tool with a narrow grinding wheel, to make a flat spot at the mark

Reassemble the nose gear and install it into the engine mount Tighten the steering arm screw directly over the flat Your nose gear steering will always remain positive, even on the roughest of surfaces.

Find a safe place to fly

The best place to fly your R/C model is an AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) chartered club field Ask your hobby shop dealer if there is such a club in your area and join Club fields are set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing safer and more enjoyable The AMA also can tell you the name of a club in your area We recommend that you join AMA and a local club so you can have a safe place to fly and have insurance to cover you in case of a flying accident (The AMA address is listed on page 2 of this instruction book)

If a club and its flying site are not available, you need to find a large, grassy area at least 6 miles away from any other R/C radio operation, like R/C boats and R/C cars and away from houses, buildings and streets A schoolyard may look inviting but it is too close to people, power lines and possible radio interference.

Ground check the model

If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C models, ask an experienced modeler to check to see that you have the radio installed correctly and that all the control surfaces do what they are supposed to The engine operation also must be checked and the engine broken in on the ground by running the engine for at least two tanks of fuel

Follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations for break-in. Check to make sure all screws remain tight, that the

hinges are secure and that the prop is on tight

Charge the batteries

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction manual You should always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer

Balance the Propeller

Balance your propellers carefully before flying An unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of damaging vibration Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts vibrate out, possibly with disastrous effect but vibration will also damage your radio receiver and battery Vibration will cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run rough or quit

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop

Balancer (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box

Range check your radio

Wherever you do fly, you need to check the operation

of the radio before every time you fly First make sure no

one else is on your frequency (channel) With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control Have someone help you Have them stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the various control surfaces are doing

Repeat this test with the engine running at various speeds with an assistant holding the model If the control surfaces are not always acting correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first

NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place away from high heat, sparks or flames as fuel is very flammable Do not smoke near the engine or fuel and remember that the engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide Therefore do not run the engine in a closed

room or garage

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to

operate engines

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand as the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and

run the engine

Keep items such as these away from the prop loose clothing shirt sleeves ties scarfs long hair or loose objects (pencils screw drivers) that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop

Use a chicken stick device or electric starter follow instructions supplied with the starter or stick Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller

Make all engine adjustments from behind the

rotating propeller

The engine gets hot' Do not touch it during or after operation Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire

To stop the engine cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel line or follow the engine manufacturer s recommendations Do not use hands, fingers or any body part to try to stop the engine Do not throw anything into the prop of a running engine

Radio control

1 I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired model

2 I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper

3 I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my control

4 I will operate my model using only radio control

frequencies currently allowed by the Federal

Communications Commission .

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model

Aeronautics Official Safety Code

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously successfully flight tested.

2 I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without

notifying the airport operator I will give right of way to and avoid flying in the proximity of full scale aircraft Where necessary an observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft

3. Where established I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my

models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner 7 I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my

name and address or AMA number, on or in the model 9 I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device

that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind)

The moment of truth has finally arrived You've put a lot of effort into building your PT 60 and it looks great' Protect your investment by following a few simple tips

1. If possible have an experienced modeler look over your work before you head out to your flying field Its easier to fix problems in the workshop instead of on the flightline

2 Become familiar with starting your engine, and break it in

before going for your first flight Be sure the engine will

stop when the trim lever is pulled all the way back.

3 Assemble a simple flight kit (a shoe box is fine to start with) which should include a starting battery and glo-plug clip (or ni starter) chicken stick for flipping the prop fuel and a means of filling the tank a couple of small screwdrivers #64 rubber bands (or wing bolts) spare prop and glo plug 6 adjustable wrench and a pair of needle

nose pliers In addition to tools you should also take along some paper towels and spray window cleaner to remove residue after each flight.

4 When you load up to go to the flying field be sure that the batteries have charged for at least 14 hours and that you have your fuselage wing transmitter and flight box And, most important, you have your AMA license

5. Range check the radio' See page 41.

USING RUBBER BANDS

If you are using rubber bands to attach your wing,

the rule of thumb is to use two #64 rubber bands per

pound of model weight If your model tipped the scales at 7 pounds, you need 14 rubber bands It doesn't matter

how many run straight across the wing or how many are criss-crossed, so long as the last two are criss-crossed This trick stops the other bands from popping off Do not

use oily rubber bands for more than a few flying sessions Check each rubber band before using it and watch out for cracks Rubber bands can be conditioned by storing the oily ones in a zip-top storage bag partially filled with talcum powder or corn starch Both products will absorb the oil

Start the engine and set the throttle trim for a slow steady idle Have your instructor or a helper hold the plane while you work the controls Upon release advance the throttle slightly to start rolling then back-off the power to prevent going too fast and possibly taking off Stand behind the plane as it taxies away from you and note the direction it turns as you move the rudder control One thing to keep in mind with R/C models (whether it be cars boats, or planes) is that the steering controls may seem to reverse when the model is moving toward you For example, if you are flying toward yourself and you give a right control input (ailerons or rudder) the model will move off to your left The fact of the matter is, of course, that the controls are not reversed and the aircraft did actually enter a right turn The plane does move off to your left from your vantage point, but if you imagined yourself in the cockpit you would realize the plane turned to the right as commanded All it takes is a little practice to maintain proper orientation of your aircraft, but that s why we recommend finding an instructor

When you feel comfortable advance the throttle a little while standing behind the plane to get the feel of a takeoff roll but pull back on the power before the PT lifts off Try this several times adding a little more power each time If the plane starts to veer off, immediately cut the power to prevent a mishap

Although many R/C pilots have taught themselves to fly, we strongly recommend that you find an instructor to help get you started Although the PT series of trainers offer the greatest opportunity of success for the self-taught, there is a high probability that you will crash your airplane on the first flight Protect your investment of obtain the assistance of an experienced R/C pilot.

time

and

money-

Your first flights should be made in little or no wind If you have dual rates on your transmitter set the switches to low rate for takeoff Taxi into position pointing directly into the wind Although this model has good low speed characteristics, you should always build up as much speed as your runway will permit before lifting off as this will give you a safety margin in case of a flame-out Advance the throttle smoothly to the

wide open setting When the plane has sufficient flying speed

(you won't know until you try) lift off by smoothly applying a little up elevator (dont Jerk it off to a steep climb'), and climb out gradually trying to keep it straight and the wings level The PT-60 will climb at a 20 or 30 degree angle under full throttle Climb to about 100 feet before starting a VERY gentle turn by moving the aileron stick Apply a little more back pressure on the elevator stick as the PT turns Stop the turn by moving the aileron stick in the opposite direction until the wings are level,

then return the stick to the neutral position Pull the power

back to 1/3 throttle

We recommend that you take it easy with your PT-60 for

the first several flights and gradually get acquainted with this great plane as your engine becomes fully broken-in The PT60 is designed to fly level with neutral elevator trim at approximately 1/4 to 1/3 throttle (using a 60 size engine) — this is the best speed for learning to fly On later flights, if you want the PT 60 to maintain level flight at full throttle, you will need to give it a little down trim

Your first flights should consist of mostly straight and level flight with gentle turns to keep the model over the field These flights will give you practice at coordinating your control inputs and maintaining the proper orientation of the airplane As mentioned earlier turns are accomplished by banking the aircraft with the ailerons (rudder will accomplish this on a 3channel airplane) then gently adding some back stick (up elevator) Enough back stick should be held in to keep the aircraft at a constant altitude To stop turning apply opposite aileron (or rudder) to level the wings, then release the sticks. There is a memory aid that may help keep you out of trouble when the plane is flying toward you — put the stick under

the low wing In other words, move the stick in the direction

of the low wing to raise that wing When you are comfortable flying the aircraft, you can practice using the rudder along with the ailerons to 'coordinate the turns — usually, a small amount of rudder applied in the direction of the turn will keep the tail following the exact same track as the nose

The most common mistake when learning to fly is "over control" Think of pressure instead of large movements of the control sticks Remember, all PTs will recover from almost any over control situation within 50-100 feet if you simply let go of the sticks.

Add and practice one maneuver at a time, learning how

your PT-60 behaves in each one For ultra-smooth flying

and normal maneuvers, we recommend using the "low rate" settings as listed on page 40 High rate control throws will give your PT-60 enough control for loops, barrel rolls, and many other basic aerobatic maneuvers.

After you have several flights on your PT-60, it's time to reward yourself with your first aerobatic maneuver — a loop Climb to a safe altitude and turn into the wind Apply

full throttle, level the wings, then slowly pull back on the

elevator stick to about 1/2 to 3/4 up elevator (depending on your throws) and hold this control input After you go over the top and start down the back side of the loop, pull the throttle back to about half This will keep the stresses on the airplane low and the airspeed relatively constant Keep holding up elevator until the plane is level then slowly release the sticks Maneuver complete' It's really that easy!

APPROACH TOO STEEP

Apply up elevator.

TOO MUCH FLARE

Danger of

stalling!

Release elevator.

GOOD LANDING FLARE

Hold this angle

until touchdown.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES)- If,

while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a

low-pitched "buzz", this may be an indication of control surface "flutter" Because flutter can quickly destroy components of your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane' Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this will indicate which surface fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are slop-free If it fluttered once it will probably flutter again under similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the slop or flexing in the linkages

Here are some things which can result in flutter

Excessive hinge gap, Not mounting control horns solidly, Sloppy fit of clevis pin in horn, Elasticity present in flexible plastic pushrods, Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by tight bends, Sloppy fit of Z-bend in servo arm, Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator

joiner wire or aileron torque rod, Excessive flexing of

aileron, caused by using too soft balsa aileron, Excessive "play" or "backlash" in servo gears, and

Insecure servo mounting

When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and approach as follows Reduce the power to about 1/4 and fly a downwind leg far enough out from the runway to allow you to make a gentle 180 degree turn As you make the turn into the wind for your final approach, pull the throttle back to idle The PT-60 has a lot of lift so you will need a slow reliable idle in order to achieve a nice, slow landing Allow the plane to keep descending on a gradual glide slope until you are about 3 feet off the runway Gradually apply a little up elevator to flare for landing You should apply just enough

up elevator to hold the plane just off the runway while the excess speed bleeds off The PT-60 should settle onto the runway for a slow, slightly nose-high landing.

Good luck and have fun flying your PT-60, but

always stay in control and fly in a safe manner.

...so you'll know what they are talking about at the

flying field.

Adverse Yaw - The tendency of an airplane to yaw in the opposite direction of the roll For instance, when right aileron is applied, the airplane yaws to the left, thus opposing the turn Adverse yaw is common in trainer airplanes having flat bottom wings, and is most noticeable at slow speeds and high angles of attack such as during takeoffs and when stretching a landing approach Caused by the unequal drag of the upward and downward deflecting ailerons, this undesirable trait can be minimized by setting up the ailerons with "Differential Throw," or by "coordinating the turns, using aileron and rudder control simultaneously (See "Differential Throw ).

Ailerons -Hinged control surfaces located on the trailing

edge of the wing one on each side which provide control of the airplane about the roll axis The control direction is often confusing to first time modelers For a right roll or turn, the right hand aileron is moved upward and the left hand aileron downward, and vice versa for a left roll or turn

Angle of attack -The angle that the wing penetrates the air As the angle of attack increases so does lift and drag,

up to a point

ARF -A prefabricated model - Almost Ready to Fly.

Buddy Box -Two similar transmitters that are wired

together with a trainer cord This is most useful when learning to fly—it's the same as having dual controls The instructor can take control by using the "trainer switch" on his transmitter

Boring holes in the sky -Having fun flying an R/C airplane, without any pre-determined flight pattern

CA -Abbreviation for "Cyanoacrylate ' An instant type glue that is available in various viscosities (Thin, Medium Thick, and Gel) These glues are ideal for the assembly of wood airplanes and other materials NOTE Most CA glues will attack styrofoam

Carburetor -The part of the engine which controls the speed or throttle setting and lean/rich mixture via setting of the needle valve

CG -"Center of Gravity"- For modeling purposes, this is usually considered the point at which the airplane balances fore to aft This point is critical in regards to how the airplane reacts in the air A tail-heavy plane will be very snappy but generally very unstable and susceptible to more frequent stalls If the airplane is nose heavy, it will tend to track better and be less sensitive to control inputs but will generally drop its nose when the throttle is reduced to idle This makes the plane more difficult to land since it takes more effort to hold the nose up A nose heavy airplane will have to come in faster to land safely.

Charge Jack -The plug receptacle of the switch harness into which the charger is plugged to charge the airborne battery An expanded scale voltmeter (ESV) can also be plugged into it to check battery voltage between flights It is advisable to mount the charge jack in an accessible area of the fuselage so an ESV can be used without removing the wing

Charger -Device used to recharge batteries and usually supplied with the radio if NiCd batteries are included

Chicken Stick -A hand-held stick used to flip start a model airplane engine

Clunk -A weighted fuel pick-up used in a fuel tank to

assure

the

intake

line

always

in fuel

Dead Stick -A term used to describe unpowered flight (glide) when the engine quits running.

Differential Throw -Ailerons that are set up to deflect

more in the upward direction than downward are said to have "Differential Throw" The purpose is to counteract "Adverse Yaw"

Dihedral -The V-shaped bend in the wing Typically, more dihedral causes more aerodynamic stability in an airplane, and causes the rudder to control both the roll and yaw axis This is why some trainers and sailplanes require only 3 channels of radio control—i e , having no ailerons

Ding -Minor dent or damage to the structure Also, a nick in a prop Dinged props must be replaced

Down thrust -Downward angle of the engine relative to the centerline of the airplane Down thrust helps overcome the normal climbing tendency of flat bottom wings.

Electric Starter -A hand-held electric motor used for starting a model airplane engine Usually powered by a 12-volt battery

Elevator -Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer, which provides control of

the airplane about the pitch axis and causes the airplane to climb or dive The correct direction of control is to pull the transmitter elevator control stick back toward the bottom of the transmitter, to move the elevator upward, which causes the airplane to climb, and vice versa to dive

Epoxy -A two-part resin/hardener glue that is extremely

strong It is generally available in 6 and 30 minute formulas

Used for critical points in the aircraft where high strength

is necessary Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV) -Device used to read

the battery voltage of the on-board battery pack or transmitter battery pack.

Field charger -A fast battery charger designed to work from a 12-volt power source, such as a car battery.

Flaps -Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge of the wing inboard of the ailerons The flaps are lowered to produce more aerodynamic lift from the wing, allowing a slower takeoff and landing speed Flaps are often found on scale models, but usually not on basic trainers

Flare -The point during the landing approach in which the pilot gives an increased amount of up elevator to smooth

the touchdown of the airplane.

Flight Box -A special box used to hold and transport all

equipment used at the flying field.

Flight Pack -or Airborne pack - All of the radio equipment installed in the airplane, i e , Receiver, Servos, Battery, Switch harness.

Flutter -A phenomenon whereby the elevator rudder, or

aileron control surface begins to oscillate violently in flight This can sometimes cause the surface to break away from the aircraft and cause a crash There are many reasons for this, but the most common are excessive hinge gap or excessive "slop' in the pushrod connections and control horns If you ever hear a low-pitched buzzing sound, reduce throttle and land immediately.

Frequency Control -The FCC has allowed the 72MHz band to be used for R/C aircraft operations This band is divided up into many different channels in which you can choose a radio system You should be aware that certain areas have frequencies in which there is pager interference This is why it is always a wise move to check with your local hobby shop to find out any channels that may be troublesome in the area you wish to fly.

Fuel Overflow Line (Vent) -The fuel line is either open to atmospheric pressure or attaches to the muffler pressure nipple to pressurize the fuel tank for better fuel flow to the engine This is the line through which the fuel will overflow when the tank is full.

Fuel Pick-Up Line -The fuel line in the fuel tank through which fuel travels to the carburetor Typically a flexible tube with a weight or Clunk on the end which allows it to follow the fuel with changes in aircraft attitude This is the line through which the tank is filled.

Fuselage -The body of an airplane.

Idle Bar plug -This type of glow plug has a "bar" across

the tip to help prevent raw fuel from being splashed onto the glow element Too much raw fuel will cool the plug and prevent it from igniting the fuel/air mixture An idle bar is a help in obtaining a low idle speed.

Lateral Balance -The left-right or side to-side balance of an airplane An airplane that is laterally balanced will track better through loops and other maneuvers

Leading Edge (LE) -The very front edge of the wing or stabilizer This is the edge that hits the air first.

Muffler -A device attached to the exhaust stack of the engine to reduce noise and increase back pressure which helps low speed performance Note Most R/C Clubs require the use of mufflers

Muffler Baffle -A restnctor plate inside the muffler which reduces engine noise. This plate can be removed to increase power, but only if there are no noise restrictions

where you fly.

Needle Valve -Adjustment on a carburetor used to set proper fuel/air mixture Some carburetors have separate needle adjustments for low and high throttle Typically,

turning the needle clockwise (screwing in) leans the mixture

(less fuel), and vice versa However there are a few

exceptions—refer to the engine manufacturer's instructions.

NiCd -Nickel Cadmium battery Rechargeable batteries

which are typically used as power for radio transmitters and receivers

Glitch -radio problem that never happens unless you are over trees or a swamp

Glow Plug -The heat source for igniting the fuel/air mixture in the engine When starting the engine a battery is used to heat the filament After the engine is running, the battery can be removed The wire filament inside the plug is kept hot by the "explosions" in the engine's cylinder See next heading and Idle Bar" plug.

Glow Plug Clip/Battery -A 1 2-volt battery, which is connected to the glow plug on a model airplane engine for starting. The battery is removed once the engine is running steadily.

Grease-in -A very smooth, gentle landing without a hint of a bounce.

Hit (or to be hit) -Sudden radio interference which causes

your model to fly in an erratic manner Most often caused

by someone turning on a radio that is on your frequency,

but can be caused by other radio sources miles away

Horizontal Stabilizer -The horizontal tail surface at the back of the fuselage which provides aerodynamic pitch

stability to the airplane

Nitro -Nitromethane, a fuel additive which increases a model engines ability to idle low and improves high speed performance Ideal nitro content varies from engine to engine Refer to the engine manufacturers instructions for best results Nitro content in fuel is indicated by the percent of the fuel.

Ni-starter -A self-contained battery and glow plug clip, used when starting the engine. See glow/plug clip "

One-point landing (or a figure 9) -Synonymous with "stuffing it in Something we hope you never do.

Pitch Axis -The airplane axis controlled by the elevator. Pitch is illustrated by holding the airplane at each wingtip Raising or lowering the nose is the pitch movement This is how the climb or dive is controlled

Power panel -12-volt distribution panel that provides

correct voltage for accessories like glow-plug clips, fuel

pumps and electric starters Usually mounted on a field box

and connected to a 12-volt battery Prop pitch -Props are designated by two numbers, for

instance 10 - 6 The first number is the props length, 10". The second number is the pitch or angle of the blades The 6 represents the distance the propeller will move forward in one revolution, in this case 6".

Re-Kitting your airplane -Changing your finished model

back into a kit, as a result of 'stuffing it in."

Receiver (Rx) -The radio unit in the airplane which receives the transmitter signal and relays the control to the servos This is somewhat similar to the radio you may have in your family automobile, except the radio in the airplane perceives commands from the transmitter while the radio in your car perceives music from the radio station.

Roll Axis -The airplane axis controlled by the ailerons Roll is illustrated by holding the airplane by the nose and tail Dropping either wingtip is the roll movement This is used to bank or turn the airplane Many aircraft are not equipped with ailerons and the Roll and Yaw motions are controlled by the rudder This is one reason why most trainer aircraft have a larger amount of dihedral.

Tip stall -The outboard end of one wing (the tip) stops developing lift, causing the plane to roll suddenly in the direction of the stalled wing This situation is not fun when

you are only a few feet off the runway trying to land

Trainer Airplane -A model designed to be inherently stable and fly at low speeds to give first-time modelers time to think and react as they learn to fly

Trailing Edge (TE) -The rearmost edge of the wing or stabilizer

Transmitter (Tx) -The hand-held radio controller This is the unit that sends out the commands that you input

Touch-and-go -Landing and taking off without a pause. Often confused with a good bounce

Rudder -Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer which provides control of the airplane about the Yaw axis and causes the airplane to Yaw left or right Left rudder movement causes the airplane to Yaw left, and right rudder movement causes it to Yaw right

Servo -The electro-mechanical device which moves the control surfaces or throttle of the airplane according to commands from the receiver The radio device which does the physical work inside the airplane

Servo Output Arm -The removable arm or wheel which bolts to the output shaft of a servo and connects to the pushrod.

Shot down -A "hit" that results in a crash landing. Sometimes caused by radios miles away

Slop -Unwanted, excessive free movement in a control system Often caused by a hole in a servo arm or control horn that is too big for the pushrod wire or clevis pin This condition allows the control surface to move without

transmitter stick movement

Also, see flutter

Solo -Your first totally unassisted flight that results in a

controlled landing

Spinner -The nose cone which covers the hub of the propeller

Sport Airplane -A model which possesses some attributes of many of the specialty airplanes and are best for general flying as they are the most versatile and durable

Stall -What happens when the angle of attack is too great to generate lift regardless of airspeed (Every airfoil has an angle of attack at which it generates maximum lift — the airfoil will stall beyond this angle)

Tachometer -An optical sensor designed specifically to count light impulses through a turning propeller and read out the engine RPM

Vertical Fin -The non-moving surface that is perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer and provides yaw stability This is the surface to which the rudder attaches

Washout -An intentional twist in the wing causing the wing tips to have a lower angle of attack than the wing root In other words the trailing edge is higher than the leading edge at the wing tips Washout helps prevent tip stalls and helps the PT family of trainers recover, hands-off, from unwanted spiral dives

Wheel Collar -A small round retaining device used to

keep a wheel from sliding off an axle

Wing Loading -This is the amount of weight per square foot that has to be overcome to provide lift It is normally expressed in ounces per square foot This specification can be easily calculated as follows If you know the square

inches of the wing simply divide by 144 to obtain square feet Divide the total weight (in ounces) of the airplane by the wing area (in square feet) This information is valuable when deciding on which airplane to build next Planes with high wing loading numbers must fly faster to stay in the air These are generally performance airplanes Conversely, planes with lower numbers do not need as much air flowing around the wing to keep it flying Gliders and trainer airplanes fall into this category because slow, efficient flight is desirable

Wing Root -The centerline of the wing, where the left and right wing panels are pined.

Yaw Axis -The airplane axis controlled by the rudder Yaw is illustrated by hanging the airplane level by a wire located at the center of gravity Left or right movement of the nose is the Yaw movement

Z-Bend -A simple Z-shaped bend in the wire end of a pushrod which is used to attach the pushrod to a servo output arm

Z-Bend Pliers -A plier type tool used for easily making perfect Z-bends

TWO-VIEW DRAWING

Photocopy this two-view drawing and use the copy to plan your trim scheme

PRINTED IN USA

Great Planes GPMA0119 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual