GREAT PLANES Fokker D.VII ARF ElectriFly Instruction Manual

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WARRANTY
Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Fur ther, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.IT CONT AINS IMPOR T ANT INSTR UCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
GPMZ1141 for GPMA1141 V1.0Entire Contents © Copyright 2006
Champaign, Illinois
(217) 398-8970, Ext 5
airsupport@greatplanes.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Wingspan: 36 in [914mm] Wing Area: 360 sq in [23.2dm2] Weight: 25.7 oz. [730g] Wing Loading: 10 oz/sq ft [30g/dm2] Length: 27 in [686mm] Required (not included): Radio: 4-channel with four micro servos Motor: ElectriFly™RimFire™28-30-950 brushless ESC: ElectriFly SS-25 Battery: 11.1V, 1250mAh LiPo
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2
INTRODUCTION ...............................................................2
AMA...................................................................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................2
BATTERY CHARGER OPTIONS......................................3
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.....................................3
Hardware & Accessories.............................................3
Adhesives & Building Supplies....................................3
Optional Supplies & Tools ...........................................3
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ......................................4
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS............................................4
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ..............................4
METRIC/INCH RULER......................................................4
KIT INSPECTION..............................................................5
KIT CONTENTS ................................................................5
PREPARATIONS ...............................................................6
ASSEMBLE THE WING ....................................................6
Install the Ailerons.......................................................6
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE...........................................7
Mount the Wing...........................................................7
Mount the Stabilizer & Fin...........................................7
RADIO INSTALLATION .....................................................9
Install the Motor & ESC...............................................9
Install the Linkages ...................................................10
Install the Servos.......................................................11
Install the Top Wing...................................................13
FINISH THE MODEL .......................................................14
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY .................................16
Check the Control Directions ....................................16
Set the Control Throws..............................................17
Balance the Model (C.G.)..........................................17
Balance the Model Laterally ......................................17
PREFLIGHT.....................................................................18
Identify Your Model ....................................................18
Charge the Transmitter Batteries...............................18
Balance the Propellers..............................................18
Proper Care of Your Motor.........................................18
Ground Check...........................................................18
Range Check.............................................................18
MOTOR & BATTERY SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............18
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)....................................19
CHECK LIST ...................................................................19
FLYING ............................................................................19
Takeoff ...............................................Back Cover Page
Flight..................................................Back Cover Page
Landing..............................................Back Cover Page
The Fokker D.VII is one of the most popular and most deadly of all German WW1 biplanes.You can now have this great looking and flying aircraft as an electric without the mess and fuss of a glow engine. With today’s LiPo (Lithium­Polymer) batteries and micro servos, small electrics have become very popular. Now Great Planes brings you the Fokker D.VII in a small, easy to fly, ARF electric. So if you
want to impress your glow flying b uddies with an electric, the Great Planes Fokker D.VII EP ARF is just what you need.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the Fokker D.VII EP ARF, visit the Great Planes web site at www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link and select the Fokker D.VII EP ARF. If there is new technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) and a local R/C club.The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of the manual) may endanger insurance coverage.Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below.
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people.
1.Your F okk er D.VII EP ARF should not be considered a toy , but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Fokker D.VII EP ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
AMA
INTRODUCTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct.
3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition.
5.You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air .
6.You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights.If you’ re not a member of a club, your local hob by shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
The Great Planes Fokker D.VII EP ARF is designed for use with LiPo (Lithium-Polymer) batteries only. All LiPo batteries require a charger specifically designed for charging LiPo batteries. The use of a charger not designed for charging LiPo batteries will result in damage to the batteries and possibly a fire.
We recommend the use of the Great Planes Triton™DC Peak Charger (GPMM3150), the ElectriFly DC PolyCharge
(GPMM3010) or for charging more than one battery at a time the ElectriFly PolyCharge4 (GPMM3015).
In addition to the items listed in the
“BATTERY CHARGER
OPTIONS”
section, the following is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish the Fokker D.VII EP ARF. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
4-Channel radio with four micro servos with a minimum
17 oz/in each such as the Futaba®S3107 (FUTM0025)
(1) ElectriFly SS-25 25 amp brushless ESC (GPMM1820)(1) ElectriFly 3.5mm Bullet
(male) to 2mm Bullet
(female) connector adapter (GPMM3122)
(1) ElectriFly 1250mAh LiPo 3-cell battery (GPMP0823)(1) Futaba R114F 4-channel FM receiver
(FUTL0443, FUTL0442)
(1) Futaba “Y-harness” (FUTM4130)(1) ElectriFly RimFire C28-30-950 brushless
motor (GPMG4560)
(1) 10x4.5 Prop (GPMQ6660)(1) 3mm Prop adapter (GPMQ4959)(1) 6" [152mm] Servo extension
In addition to common household tools and hobby tools, this is the “short list”of the most important items required to build the Fokker D.VII EP ARF.
Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy
glue are recommended.
1 oz. [28g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)1 oz. [28g] Medium Pro CA (GPMR6008)Hook & Loop material (GPMQ4480)#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)#11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)K & S #801 Kevlar
®
thread or string (for stab alignment)
PliersWire cutterClear tape
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that will help you build the Fokker D.VII EP ARF.
Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)Top Flite
®
MonoKote®sealing iron (TOPR2100)
Top Flite Hot Sock
iron cover (TOPR2175)
Top Flite MonoKote heat gun (TOPR2000)2 oz. [57g] Spray CA activator (GPMR6035)CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)CA debonder (GPMR6039)
Optional Supplies & Tools
Accessories & Building Supplies
Hardware & Accessories
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
BATTERY CHARGER OPTIONS
We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality , thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
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Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)CG Machine
(GPMR2400)
Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700)
When you see the term
test fit
in the instructions, it means that you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, and then slightly modify or
custom fit
the part as necessar y for the best fit.
This kit contains primarily metric hardware with just a couple of exceptions.
Photos
and
sketches
are placed before the step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts.
The stabilizer and wing incidences and motor thrust angles have been factory-built into this model. However, some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these measurements anyway.To view this information visit the web site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data. ” Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight deviations between your model and the published values.
Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Ver tical Fin
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge LG = Landing Gear Ply = Plywood
" = Inches
mm = Millimeters
ESC = Electronic Speed Control
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Fokker D.VII EP ARF are available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows.The fastest, most economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico
®
web site at www.hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721, but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard®number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or personal check only;no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
Replacement Parts List
GPMA3015..............Top Wing Set
GPMA3016..............Bottom Wing Set
GPMA3017..............Fuse Set
GPMA3018..............Tail Surface Set
GPMA3019..............Cowl/Cheek Vent Set
GPMA3020..............Cabanes Set
GPMA3021..............N Strut Set
GPMA3022..............Machine Gun Set
GPMA3023..............Landing Gear
GPMA3010..............Wheels (2)
GPMA3011..............Pilot
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
4
To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4
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5
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly , contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N. Apollo Drive , Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
KIT INSPECTION
1. Battery Cover
2. Fuselage
3. Stabilizer
4. Elevators
5. ABS Side Vents (2)
6. Landing Gear (2)
7. Wheels (2)
8. V-Shaped Cabanes (2)
9. Cheek V ents (L&R)
10. Straight Cabane Struts (4)
11. Cowl
12. N Struts (2)
13. Landing Gear Sub Wing
14. Machine Gun Mount
15. Machine Guns (2)
16. Aileron Ser vo Hatches (2)
17. Fin & Rudder
18. Radio Cover
19. T op Wing w/Ailerons
20. Bottom Wing
Kit Contents
KIT CONTENTS
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20
2
7
8
10
12
13
16
15
3
4
17
18
11
9
19
5
14
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1. If you have not done so already, remove the major
parts of the kit from the box (wing, fuselage, tail parts, etc.) and inspect them for damage. If any par ts are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the address or telephone number on page 5.
2. Separate the ailerons from the wing, the rudder from
the fin and the elevator from the stabilizer.If necessary, use a covering iron set on medium/high to carefully tighten the covering.Lay the control surface on a flat surface and apply pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood. Hint: Poke three or four pin holes in the covering over the open structure in the tail surf aces .This will allow the hot air to escape while tightening the covering.
WARNING: DO NOT OVER SHRINK THE COVERING OR IT WILL CAUSE THE CONTROL SURFACES TO TWIST.
3. Check the hinge slots of all control surfaces using a
hobby knife with a #11 blade. This will help when installing the hinges.
❏❏1. Test fit the right aileron to the top wing with two
6.4mm x 15mm [1/4" x 5/8"] hinges. If the hinges don’t stay centered, stick a pin through the middle of the hinges to hold them in position while fitting the aileron to the wing.
❏❏2. Remove any pins you may have inserted into the
hinges. Install the aileron so there is a very small gap between the LE of the aileron and the wing.The gap should be small – just enough to see light through or to slip a piece of paper through.
❏❏3. Apply three drops of thin CA to the top and bottom
of each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator. After the CA has cured, test the hinges by pulling on the ailerons.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the left aileron.
Install the Ailerons
ASSEMBLE THE WINGPREPARATIONS
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1.Locate the two 4.5mm x 18mm [11/64" x 11/16"] dowel
rods and insert them into the bottom wing as shown, so that only about 9.5mm [3/8"] sticks out.Secure them with a drop of CA.
2. Test fit the bottom wing to the fuselage and secure it
with two 4-40 x 19mm [3/4"] machine screws and 3mm [1/8"] washers.The flat side of the wing is the bottom.
1. Using a sharp hobby knife, remove the covering from
the stabilizer cut-out at the aft end of the fuselage.
2. Mark the center of the TE of the stabilizer. Place the
stabilizer onto the stabilizer saddle.
3. Stick a T-pin into the center of the top of the firewall.Tie
a small loop in one end of a 900mm [35"] piece of non­elastic string such as K&S #801 Kevlar thread.Slip the loop in the string over the T-pin.
4. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other end of the
string and draw an arrow on it.With the stab centered on the fuselage and the TE of the stabilizer flush with the aft end of the fuse, slide the tape along the string and align the arrow with one tip of the stabilizer. Swing the string over to the same position at the other end of the stab. If the arrow
Mount the Stabilizer & Fin
Mount the Bottom Wing
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
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doesn’t align with the tip, adjust the stab and the arrow slightly and check both tips again. Adjust the stab until the stabilizer tips and the TE are centered.
5. View the stab from approximately 3m [10 feet] behind
the plane.Check that the stab is parallel with the wing.If it is not, lightly sand the stab saddle until the stab is parallel with the wing.
6. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the
fuselage onto the bottom of the stab.
7. Remove the stab from the fuselage. Use a sharp #11
hobby knife or the
“Expert Tip”
that follows to cut the covering from the stab just inside the lines you marked.Use care to cut only the covering and not the wood. Cutting the wood will weaken the stab and it may break in flight.
8. Reinstall the stabilizer onto the fuselage. Use the string
method to align the stabilizer and glue it in place with thin CA.
9.Test fit the fin on the stabilizer.Make sure that the fin is
perpendicular to the stabilizer and the TE is flush with the aft end of the fuselage.
10. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the
fin on the top of the stabilizer.
11. Remove the fin from the stabilizer. Using the same
technique used for the stab, cut the covering from the top of the stabilizer just inside the lines you marked. Use care to cut only the covering and not the wood.Cutting the wood will weaken the stabilizer and it may break in flight.
12. Remove the covering from the tabs of the fin and the
bottom edge of the fin that will be adhered to the stabilizer.
13. Use a small modeling square to make sure that the fin
is perpendicular to the stabilizer and secure it in place with CA.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a 25-watt soldering iron to cut the covering from the stab.The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine-tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully. Use a metal straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. The hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a fine cut. Allow the heat to melt the covering.Do not apply much pressure or the wood ma y be damaged. Peel off the covering.
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14. Temporarily attach the elevator to the stabilizer with
four CA hinges. Note: There is a left and right side to the elevator.The left side of the elevator has a small slot for the elevator control horn.The slot is located under the covering.
(The covering will be cut away in a later step in the manual.)
Locate the slot by pressing the underside of the elev ator. Be
sure the elevator half with the slot is on the left side of the fuselage. Make sure the stabilizer and elevator are
aligned. If needed, use T-pins to hold the CA hinges centered in the elevator.Apply 3 drops of thin CA on the top and bottom of each hinge.
15. Install three CA hinges in the rudder and test fit it on
the fin.Adjust the position of the fin so that the bottom of the rudder is even with the bottom of the fuselage and the LE of the rudder and the TE of the fin are aligned. Apply 3 drops of thin CA on each side of each hinge.
16. Test fit the tail skid at the rear of the fuselage. When
satisfied with the fit, attach the tail skid to the bottom of the fuselage using medium CA.
Note: You will need to have your motor battery charged later in this section. We recommend that you start charging it now so you do not have to w ait for it to charge later .Make sure to closely follow the charging instructions for charging LiPo batteries. We also recommend that you remove the bottom wing for this procedure for better access to the inside of the fuselage.
1. Cut a 20mm [3/4"] long piece of hook and loop mater ial
(not included). Glue the 20mm [3/4"] soft piece (hook side) to the back of the ESC. Glue the rough piece (loop side) to the bottom of the battery tray. Inser t the ESC through the front of the firewall and secure it in place by joining the hook and loop material. Route the battery connector out of one of the two holes at the back of the battery compartment. Route the servo lead into the wing opening and the three motor leads out the front of the firewall.The reason the ESC needs to be mounted in this location is so that it has a good flow of air over it.
2. Cut another 20mm [3/4"] long piece of hook and loop
material (not included) and glue the 20mm [3/4"] soft piece (hook side) to the back of the receiver.Glue the rough piece (loop side) to the top of the inside of the fuselage in front of the cockpit. Insert the receiver and secure it in place by joining the hook and loop material.
3. Use epoxy to join the two piece motor mount. Make
sure all openings are flush.
Install the Motor & ESC
RADIO INSTALLATION
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4. Attach the RimFire motor to the back of the plywood
motor mount with three 3mm x 6mm [1/8" x 15/64"] machine screws. Apply a drop of threadlocker on the threads of the machine screws.Insert each of three 3mm x 30mm [1/8" x 1-3/16"] machine screws through a 3mm [1/8"] washer, the outer holes of the motor mount, another 3mm [1/8"] washer, a 17mm [21/32"] tube, and another 3mm [1/8"] washer as shown in the drawing. Apply a drop of threadlocker on the threads of each screw and install the motor mount to the firewall.
5. Install a 3.5mm [9/64"] Bullet (male) to 2mm [5/64"]
Bullet (female) connector adapter (GPMM3122) on each of the motor leads. Connect the motor leads to the ESC. Push the wires up into the fuselage to prevent them from contacting the rotating motor case.
1. Use a sharp hobby knife to trim the covering from over
the small rectangular holes towards the LE of the rudder and the bottom of the elevator as shown. Do not cut all the way through the rudder or elevator.
2. Test fit the control horns in the holes so that they are
perpendicular to the control surface. Once satisfied with the fit, use CA to secure the control horns in place.
3. Insert the two 460mm [18"] wire pushrods into the
outer pushrod tubes at the rear of the fuselage as shown.
Install the Linkages
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4.Insert the 90° bends of the 460mm [18"] pushrods into the
outer hole of the control horns and secure them with the plastic retainers as shown.Place a drop of CA on the plastic retainers.
1. Install the servo mounting hardware and servo arms on
the rudder and elevator servos. Trim off the unused servo arms. Insert a screw-lock pushrod connector in the hole of each servo arm 9mm [11/32"] from the center of the servo. Secure the screw-lock pushrod connector to the servo arm with a nylon retainer.
2.Position the servos on the servo rails aligning them with the
pushrod wires and drill a 1.6mm [1/16"] hole through each of the
mounting holes in the servo. Install and then remove a servo mounting screw into each of the holes you drilled. Apply a couple of drops of CA into each hole to harden the threads.After the glue has hardened, plug the ESC, rudder and elevator servos into the receiver .Plug a battery pack into the ESC .Switch on the transmitter and then the ESC. Center the trims on the transmitter and re-center the servo arms on the servos if necessary so that the arm is per pendicular to the centerline of the servo.Insert the rudder and elevator pushrod wires into the screw-lock pushrod connectors and install the rudder and elevator servos on the servo rails. Use the hardware included with the servos to mount the servos to the rails.
3. With the transmitter and the ESC power “ON,” center
the elevator control surface and tighten the set screw in the screw-lock pushrod connector against the elevator pushrod.
4.F ollow the same procedure to secure the rudder pushrod.
5. Clean the cases of both aileron ser vos with denatured
alcohol. Use CA to glue the aileron ser vos on the bottom of the aileron servo hatches so that the servo arm is centered in the opening. Cut off all of the unused servo arms. If you prefer, wrap electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing around the servos before gluing them to the servo hatch.This will allow the servos to be removed easily.
6.Inside the aileron servo bays of the top wing, there is a
string that runs from one bay to the other. Plug the left
Install the Servos
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aileron servo into a 610mm [24"] Y-harness and tie the string around the other aileron plug. Be sure to secure the left aileron connection with heat-shrink tubing.
7. Lightly pull the other end of the string until the
“Y” section is near the small opening near the center of the top wing. Carefully use a bent paper clip or some type of grasping device to carefully pull out the connector for the receiver. Leave the right aileron connector tied to the string.
8. Continue pulling the string until the right aileron
connector enters the right aileron bay. Disconnect the string and plug in the right aileron servo. Secure the connection with heat-shrink tubing.
9. Secure each aileron ser vo hatch to the wing with four
2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screws.
10. Use a sharp hobby knife to trim the covering from over
the small rectangular hole along the LE of each aileron as shown. Do not cut all the way through the ailerons.
11.Test fit the control horns and when satisfied with their
fit, CA them in place as shown.
12.Install one 35mm [1-3/8"] aileron pushrod in the outer
hole of the aileron servo arm and another in the outer hole of the aileron control horn. Slide one of the included pieces of heat-shrink tubing over the pushrods. With the radio system on and the aileron servo trim lever centered, shrink the heat-shrink tubing over the pushrods and apply a couple of drops of thin CA to the tubing. Note: A hot soldering iron works great for shrinking the heat-shrink tubing.
13. Make a small hole in the bottom sheeting. Route the
antenna out of the hole and tape it to the bottom of the fuselage.
14. Plug a 152mm [6"] servo extension into the receiver
securing it with heat-shrink tubing, tape or other method to secure the connection. Route the servo extension through the hole in the left side of the fuselage.Re-install the bottom wing.
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1. Study the above drawing carefully.There are four pairs of
strut mounts.They are labeled AC9a, AC9b, AC9c , and AC9d. Test fit the bottom mounts into their respective strut mount pockets in the bottom wing.Do not glue them in place.
2.Use 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head
screws to hold the end struts in place as shown.The end struts have “TF” stamped into them to indicate “Top Front.”
3. Install and remove four 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-
tapping washer head screws into the pre-drilled holes on each side of the fuselage.Apply a couple of drops of thin CA into each hole to harden the threads.
4. Locate the two “V” shaped cabanes and screw them in
place with four 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screws as shown.
5. Locate two straight cabane struts.Secure the top of the
straight cabane strut to the “V” cabane with a 2mm x 6mm [5/64" x 7/32"] machine screw. Be sure to use a drop of threadlocker on the screw. Attach the bottom of the strut to the fuselage with a 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screw.
6. Attach the top wing to the center cabanes with two
2-56 x 9.5mm [3/8"] machine screws and two 2mm [5/64"] washers as shown.
7. Put the center rear cabanes in place. Attach the
cabanes with 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screws at the sides of the fuselage and with 2-56 x 9.5mm [3/8"] machine screws and two 2mm [5/64"] washers in the bottom of the top wing.
Install the Top Wing
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8. Use four 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer
head screws to finish fastening the end struts in place as shown. Once you have determined that the wing is straight, with no twists, use thin CA to glue the strut mounts into the strut mount pockets.IMPORTANT: Do not glue the struts to
the strut mounts.
9. Glue the cheek vents in place as shown.You will need
to remove the screw from the front of the “V” strut and slide the cheek in place.Use a f elt-tip pen to make a mark to show where to drill.Once the hole is drilled, simply slide the cheek vent in place and re-install the 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screw.
10. Use CA to glue one ABS side vent on each side of the
fuselage as shown.
1. Locate the radio compartment cover and secure it to the
fuselage with four 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screws as shown. Remove the screws and harden the holes with thin CA.Then, reinstall the screws.
2. Carefully thread the axle through the sub-wing and
attach the rear landing gear strut followed by the front landing gear strut as shown.The rear strut is identified by a second hole near the axle hole.
3. Secure the sub-wing to the landing gear with two
2mm x 6mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping screws as shown. Remove the screws and harden the holes with thin CA.Then, reinstall the screws.
FINISH THE MODEL
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Remove the screws and harden the holes with thin CA.Then, reinstall the screws.
4. Attach the landing gear to the bottom of the fuselage
with four 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screws. Remove the screws and harden the holes with thin CA.Then, reinstall the screws.
5. On each axle, place a 3mm [1/8"] washer and 3mm
[1/8"] nut with threadlocker, followed by another 3mm washer and the wheel. Secure the wheel in place with a 3mm [1/8"] washer and 3mm [1/8"] nut. Apply a drop of threadlocker to the nut.
6.Put the battery cover in place .The battery cover has three
very small but powerful magnets that will hold it in place.
7. Put the cowl in place so that the motor shaft is centered
in the opening. Drill two 1.6mm [1/16"] holes through each
side of the cowl as shown. Install and then remove a 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screw into each of the holes you drilled. Apply a couple of drops of CA into each hole to harden the threads. Put the cowl back in place and secure it with four 2mm x 7mm [5/64" x 9/32"] self-tapping washer head screws.
8.Remove a 13mm x 13mm [1/2" x 1/2"] square of cov ering
from the top of the fuselage in front the cockpit and use CA to attach the machine gun mount. Glue the machine guns in place as shown. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the machine
guns do not extend out over the battery compartment.
9. Slide the prop shaft and collet onto the motor shaft.The
collet has a tapered hole through it.
10. Install a 10x4.5 propeller. Install the prop washer and
prop nut and tighten the nut securely.
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11. Remove the battery compartment cover .Note that the
lip slides under the cowl and the aft end is held on with two magnets. Inser t the batter y in the battery compar tment and replace the battery compar tment cover.
12. Use clear tape to secure the aileron wire to the
cabanes as shown.
1. Carefully trim the perimeter of the parts using a shar p
hobby knife.
2. Sand each half using 150- or 220-grit sandpaper and
a Great Planes Easy-Touch™bar sander.
3. Carefully join the halves with thick CA and lightly sand
the seam.
4. Paint to suit your taste.5. After the paint has dried, the pilot can be attached to the
former at the back of the cockpit using CA. Before gluing, scrape the paint from the pilot where it will attach to the former.
Warning: Once the motor battery is connected to the ESC, stay clear of the propeller.
1. Switch on the transmitter and connect the motor
battery to the ESC. Move the throttle stick down to the off position. Switch on the ESC and center the trims.
2. Make certain that the control surfaces respond in the
correct direction as shown in the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if necessar y.
3. Follow the instructions included with your ESC to arm
the motor. Make sure the propeller is turning in the correct direction. If not, refer to the ESC instructions to change the direction of rotation.
Warning! Once the battery is connected to the ESC, stay clear of the propeller even if the ESC has not been armed.
Check the Control Directions
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Assemble the Pilot
16
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
4-CHANNEL
ELEVATOR MOVES UP
RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
FULL THROTTLE
Page 17
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately measure and set the control throw of each control surface as indicated in the chart that follows.If your radio does not ha v e dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the low
rate setting. Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition with all of the systems in place including the motor, landing gear, motor battery, and the radio system.
1. Use a felt-tip pen or 3mm-wide [1/8"] tape to accurately
mark the C.G. on the bottom of the top wing on both sides of the fuselage.The C.G. is located 54mm [2-1/8"] back from the LE of the top wing.
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly) and the motor battery installed, place the model right-side up on a Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it at the balance point you marked.
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy”and the motor
battery and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must be added to the nose to balance.If the nose drops, the model is “nose heavy”and the motor battery and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to balance. If possible, move the receiver forward or aft to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional weight is required, use Great Planes “stick-on” lead (GPMQ4485). A good place to add stick-on nose weight is under the battery cover (don’t attach weight to the cowl-it is not intended to support weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the bottom of the fuse over the firew all until the model balances .Once y ou have determined the amount of weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse and gluing it permanently inside.
IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
1.With the wing level, lift the model by the prop shaft and the
bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fin.Do this several times.
2.If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
Balance the Model Laterally
This is where your model should balance for the first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the C.G. up to 3mm [1/8"] forward or 3mm [1/8"] back to change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G.forward may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model may then require more speed for tak eoff and mak e it more difficult to slow for landing.Moving the C.G.aft makes the model more maneuverable, but could also cause it to become too difficult to control. In any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any time balance the model outside the specified range.
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may determine whether or not your first flight will be successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.
Balance the Model (C.G.)
IMPORTANT: The Fokker D.VII EP ARF has been extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws at
which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will provide you with the greatest chance for successful first flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the way the Fokker D.VII EP ARF flies, you would like to change the throws to suit your taste, that is fine. However, too much control throw could make the model difficult to control, so remember, “more is not always better.”
These are the recommended control surface throws:
High Rate Low Rate
ELEVATOR: 13mm [1/2"] up 8mm [5/16"] up
13mm [1/2"] down 8mm [5/16"] down
RUDDER: 25mm [1"] right 13mm [1/2"] right
25mm [1"] left 13mm [1/2"] left
AILERONS: 14mm [9/16"] up 9.5mm [3/8"] up
14mm [9/16"] down 9.5mm [3/8"] down
Set the Control Throws
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No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have your name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag on the decal sheet and place it on or inside your model.
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your radio control system to charge the transmitter. You should always charge your transmitter the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manuf acturer .
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most significant cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only will motor mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio receiver and servos.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
Using multiple battery packs to run the motor for successive flights may cause the motor to become excessively hot.We recommend at least a 10-minute motor cool-down period between flights.
Before the first flight, inspect the model closely to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
Ground check the operational range of your r adio before the first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 30m [100 feet] away from the model and still have control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Repeat this test with the motor r unning at various speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand signals to show you what is happening. If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first.Look f or loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
Use safety glasses when running the motor. Do not run the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand;the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes. Keep your f ace and body as w ell as all spectators a wa y from
the plane of rotation of the propeller as you run the motor. Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.
Always remove the LiPo (Lithium-Polymer) battery from the plane before charging.
Always use a charger designed to charge LiPo batteries for charging the LiPo flight battery.
Never leave the LiPo battery unattended while charging. If the battery becomes more than just warm, discontinue charging.
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.
MOTOR & BATTERY SAFETY
PRECAUTIONS
Range Check
Ground Check
Proper Care of Your Motor
Balance the Propellers
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new transmitter batteries should be done for 15 hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system.This will “condition” the batteries so that the next charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger, the batteries may not reach their full capacity and you may be flying with batteries that are only partially charged.
Charge the Transmitter Batteries
Identify Y our Model
PREFLIGHT
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Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.For the complete Safety Code refer to
Model Aviation
magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator .I will giv e right-of-wa y and av oid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.Note:This does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y an experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established in front of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators.Only personnel involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line. Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently allowed by the F ederal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance with the frequency sharing agreement listed (in the complete AMA Safety Code).
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch the ground, except while landing.
1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
2. Be certain the motor battery and receiver are
securely mounted in the fuse.
3. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder joint inside the receiver.
4. Balance your model
laterally
as explained in
the instructions.
5. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.6. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
appropriate (servo mounting screws, cabane mounting screws, etc.).
7. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
8. Make sure that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.
9. Secure connections between servo wires and
Y-connectors or servo extensions with vinyl tape, heat­shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
10. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms, pushrods, etc.).
11. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).12. Tighten the propeller nut.13.Place your name, address, AMA number and
telephone number on or inside your model.
14. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
15. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.
The Fokker D.VII is a great-flying model that flies smoothly and predictably. The Fokker D.VII does not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.
FLYING
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain checks and procedures that should be performed before the model is flown.To help avoid this, a check list is provided to make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.
CHECK LIST
Radio Control
General
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
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The Fokker D.VII has a tail skid rather than a conventional tailwheel. This prevents you from having complete control while trying to taxi. If your field has short grass or is paved, it is recommended that you set the airplane on the runway pointed into the wind to ready the plane for takeoff. If your field has very thick or tall grass you should consider hand­launching the airplane.
With the plane pointed into the wind, arm the motor as per the ESC instructions and slowly advance the throttle. Apply full power and launch the model into the wind with the wings level with the horizon. When the plane picks up speed, gradually add “up elevator” to begin a gentle climb. At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more right rudder to counteract motor torque. Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern.
For reassurance and to keep an e ye on other traffic, it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.Tell him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a comf ortable altitude.Tak e it easy with the Fokker D.VII for the first few flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level flight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a saf e altitude with plenty of battery power remaining, practice slow flight and execute practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds.Add power to see how she climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies the way you like. The Fokker
D.VII will perform loops, hammerheads, inverted flight and rolls. When performing rolls you will find that the rolls are more of a barrel roll. It is recommended you are at a safe altitude before attempting the roll until you have become familiar with the characteristics of the airplane. Mind your battery power but use this first flight to become familiar with your model bef ore landing.
WWI planes like the Fokk er are notorious for their poor ground handling.Your model has been designed for maximum control without excessively deviating from scale lines. This said, the airplane is a little trickier on the ground than other models you may have flown.We have specified a high and low rate for the elevator.For normal flying you will find the low rate elevator is more than adequate.You might want to switch to the high rate for landing. The airplane has a tendency to nose over. The additional throw provided by the high rate elevator will help to minimize nose-overs when landing. To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward to gradually b leed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto the crosswind leg. Make your final turn toward the runwa y (into the wind) k eeping the nose down to maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the model reaches the runway threshold.At this point it is best to keep up the air speed and the RPM of the motor, flying the plane to the ground.The plane will land best if you fly it to the ground landing first on the main wheels and allowing the tail to naturally settle as the speed decreases. Three point stall landings will also work but are trickier to do on a consistent basis. If you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make another attempt.But, if your battery power is low , do not attempt to go around again. It is better to land long than risk stalling the plane by flying too slow because the motor battery is low on power.
One final note about flying your model: Have a goal or flight plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) y ou already kno w, or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve your skills
(though it is never a bad idea!)
, but more importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’v e run out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate, not impulsive.For example, if you’re going to do a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.
Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Landing
Flight
Takeoff
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while
flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such as a low­pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
flutter
. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an aileron or elev ator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can actually cause the control surface to detach or the flying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed b y an impending crash.The best thing to do when flutter is detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing power , then land as soon as safely possible. Identify which surface fluttered (so the problem may be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it fluttered once, under similar circumstances it will probably flutter again unless the problem is fixed.Some things which can cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of the most prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an over-powered model at excessive speeds.
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