GREAT PLANES F-15 EAGLE Instruction Book
(Armament package sold separately)
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final userassembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting
liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he
is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase for a
full refund.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND
WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.
P.O BOX 788 URBANA ILLINOIS 61801 217398-8970
Entire Contents c 1993, Hobbico, Inc F154P03 V1.0
LAST MINUTE ADDITIONS
Staple this inside your book
1. In step 5 on page 24 and in step 3 on page
40, we have provided a slightly different style of
nylon torque rod horn than shown. You will need to
drill these horns with a 7/64" drill and tap them
using the 6-32 thread-cutting screw provided.
F154ADD1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION............................................. 3
PRECAUTIONS........................................... 3
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED ........................ 4
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED.............. 4
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW........ 5
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
TYPES OF WOOD
GET READY TO BUILD............................... 5
DIE-CUT
TAIL FEATHERS
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER................... 7
BUILD
TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES AND
TORQUE RODS........................................... 9
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY................................ 10
PREPARE FUSE SIDES............................. 10
MOUNT ENGINE AND INSTALL SERVOS....... 18
BUILD THE NOSE SECTION ..................... 22
INSTALL THE RECEIVER BATTERY..........23
GLUE THE STABS ON
MAKE ELEVATOR PUSHROD.................... 25
FINISH UP THE FUSELAGE...................... 26
PARTS
THE STAB. AND
......................................
DRAWING
............................................
.....................
.......................
ELEVATOR
...............................
...........
5
5
6
7
8
24
DECALS AND TRIM.................................... 46
WING SEATING.......................................... 47
RE-INSTALL ENGINE & RADIO ................. 47
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS................ 47
BALANCE YOUR MODEL .......................... 47
FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS............... 48
PRE-FLIGHT.................................................. 49
CHARGE THE BATTERIES........................ 49
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY.................... 49
GROUND CHECK THE MODEL................. 49
RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO .................. 49
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............. 49
AMA SAFETY CODE .................................. 50
FLYING........................................................... 50
TAKEOFF.................................................... 50
FLYING........................................................ 50
LANDING .................................................... 51
2-VIEW DRAWING......................................... 52
METRIC CONVERSIONS
WING.............................................................. 28
SPARS
BUILD THE WING PANELS........................ 29
INSTALL WING TOP SHEETING................ 33
INSTALL THE BOTTOM WING SHEETING...... 35
INSTALL THE AILERON TORQUE RODS........ 38
ASSEMBLE AILERONS.............................. 39
INSTALL AILERON SERVO........................ 40
FINISHING THE WING ............................... 41
FINAL ASSEMBLY......................................... 42
MAKE RUDDER PUSHRODS
FIT THE WING TO THE FUSE ................... 42
PREPARE THE CANOPY........................... 43
BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY.... 44
FINAL SANDING......................................... 44
COVERING................................................. 44
GLUE FINS IN PLACE................................ 44
GLUE THE AILERON HINGES................... 44
GLUE TAIL FEATHER HINGES ..................45
COCKPIT & SEAT....................................... 45
GLUE CANOPY IN PLACE......................... 46
........................................................
....................
28
42
1"= 25.4 mm (conversion factor)
1/64" =
1/32" =
1/16" =1.6
3/32" =
5/32" = 4
3/16" =4.8
3/8" =
5/8"
3/4" =19
.4 mm
.8 mm
mm
2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm
mm
mm
1/4"
=6.4
mm
9.5 mm
1/2" =12.7
=15.9
1" =25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" =304.8 mm
15"
=381
18" =457.2 mm
21" =533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762 mm
36" =914.4 mm
mm
mm
mm
mm
2
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY! THIS IS NOT A
BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm
and property damage IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE, to build this kit correctly,
properly install all R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc) and to test the model
and fly it only with experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accordance with all safety
standards as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code It is suggested that you join
the AMA and become properly insured before you attempt to fly this model IF YOU ARE JUST
STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY
OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
1810 Samuel Morse Dr
Reston, VA 22090 (703)435-0750
address and phone
expires June 30, 1993
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you for
purchasing the Great Planes F-15 EAGLE!
The Great Planes F-15 is a high
performance propeller-driven sport airplane that
resembles the real F-15 Eagle In the air, the prop
is invisible, adding to the realism The smoothness
and speed of this airplane allow you to experience
the thrills of flying a Jet-like airplane without the
complexity and high cost of a ducted fan model.
And yet, the F-15 is very stable and forgiving,
allowing even less-experienced pilots to enjoy it
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 E Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302 (317)289-4236
Change of Address and phone
active July 1, 1993
Please inspect all parts carefully
before starting to build! If any parts are
missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or
flying this airplane, please call us at
(217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad to help. If
you are calling for replacement parts,
please look up the part numbers and the
kit identification number (stamped on the
end of the carton) and have them ready
when calling.
PRECAUTIONS
This is not a beginner's airplane! While the
F-15 Eagle is not hard to build and flies great, we
must discourage you from selecting this kit as your
first R/C airplane It is very fast, highly
maneuverable, and lacks the self-recovery
characteristics of a good basic trainer such as the
Great Planes PT Series airplanes On the other
hand, if you are confident with your flying skill and
can safely handle aileron airplanes such as the
Great Planes Big Stik Series airplanes, the F-15
is an excellent choice
1 You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify
the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the photos In
those instances you should assume the plans and
written instructions are correct Also, you may
notice a slight difference in length between longer
parts and the plans This is normal and is caused
by the plans expanding and shrinking with the
changing moisture content in the air Do not
modify the parts to fit the plan.
2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong IMPORTANT - Glue should never be
substituted for a good-fitting joint Take a little
extra time to get a good fitting joint and glue it
properly and it will be stronger, neater, and much
lighter than a bad joint held together with a glob of
glue!
3
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in
first class condition and meets the current AMA
and FCC requirements and the requirements of
your local flying club, the correct sized engine and
correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.).
4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly
on the ground and in the air
5. You must test the operation of the model
before the first and each successive flight to insure
that all equipment is operating, and you must make
certain that the model has remained structurally
sound.
6 You must fly the model only with the
competent help of a well experienced R/C pilot if
you are not already an experienced and
knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can
provide you with a top quality kit and
great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it;
therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no
representations are expressed or
implied as to the performance or safety
of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow
directions to end up with a well-built model that
is straight and true.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
D Four-channel radio with 4 servos
D Propellers (see engine instructions for
recommended sizes)
D 2-1/4" Spinner (Hobbico® 2-1/4" Jet spinner
(HCAQ3750) recommended)
D 2-3/4" Main Wheels (Great Planes GPMQ4204
recommended) See page 5
D 2-1/4" Nose Wheel (Great Planes GPMQ4202
recommended) See page 5
D 10oz Fuel Tank (Great Planes GPMQ4104
recommended)
D 5/32" Wheel Collars - (6 needed) (2 packages
of GPMQ4306)
D Iron-on Covering Material (2 rolls) (Top Flite®
Aluminum Super MonoKote® recommended)
D Fuelproof Paint for trim We used Chevron
"Perfect Paint" silver on the turtle deck
D Semi-flexible Pushrods (2-sets) (GPMQ3714)
D Silicone Fuel Tubing (GPMQ1234)
D 1/16" thick Wing Seating Tape (GPMQ4422))
D 1/4" thick Latex Foam Rubber Padding
D Plastic Pilot. Williams Bros Military 1-1/2"
Scale #171
D Quick-Connectors - (3 needed) (2 packages of
GPMQ3870)
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
D 2 oz Thin CA Adhesive (Top Flite Supreme)
D 2 oz Medium or Thick CA Adhesive (Supreme)
D 30-Minute Epoxy (Bullet)
D Hand or Electric Drill
D Drill Bits 1/16", 5/64", 7/64", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16",
13/64", 1/4" and 5/16"
D Sealing Iron (Hobbico or Top Flite recommended)
D Heat Gun (Hobbico or Top Flite recommended)
D Hobby Saw (Razor Saw)
D Hobby Knife, #11 Blades
D Screw Drivers
D T-Pins
D Straightedge
D Strapping Tape (Required for construction)
D Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit) *
D T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
D Waxed Paper
D Lightweight Balsa Filler (Hobbico Hobbylite™)
D Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
D IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
D 3M "77" Spray Adhesive (optional)
D Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11"
T-Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100
and #150-grit sandpaper. We also keep
some #320-grit sandpaper handy for finish
sanding, before covering.
4
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW
ENGINE, MOUNT AND MUFFLER
SELECTION
The recommended engine for the F-15
is a .40* - .50 cubic inch displacement 2-cycle
*NOTE Performance may be marginal if a nonschneurle-ported 40 cu in 2-Cycle engine is
used The engine you select will determine how
you build the fuselage nose section, so it is
important that you have the engine close at
hand while building Because of the size
limitations and the nature of this model, 4-cycle
engines are more difficult to install and balance
and therefore are not recommended.
This kit includes a Great Planes
EM4070 adjustable engine mount (or similar
mount) that will fit most .40 - .61 (2-Cycle)
engines If the supplied mount does not fit your
engine, it may be necessary to purchase a
different mount (check with your hobby dealer).
SELECTION OF WHEELS
To save weight, we recommend using Great
Planes Ultralight wheels REMEMBER: Large
wheels are ugly and unrealistic on a model of
this type, so try to keep the wheels as small as
possible
If you will be flying from a concrete or
asphalt runway, we recommend 2-1/4" main
wheels and a 2" nose wheel.
For grass fields, larger wheels will be
required, such as 2-3/4" main wheels and a
2-1/4" to 2-1/2" nose wheel
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
USED IN THIS BOOK AND
ON THE PLANS:
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
Tri = Triangle
" = Inches
TYPES OF WOOD
GET READY TO BUILD
THE
F-15
D 1. Unroll the plan sheets and re-roll them
inside out to help them lie flat.
D 2 Remove all parts from the box As you do,
figure out the name of each part by comparing it
with the plans and the parts list at the back of this
book Using a felt tip pen, write the part name or
size on each piece to avoid confusion later Use
the die-cut part patterns shown on page 6 to
identify the die-cut parts but do not punch them out
until you are ready to use them Save all scraps.
If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out,
do not force them' Instead, first cut around the
parts with a hobby knife After punching out the
die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to
lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
Balsa Basswood Plywood
D 3 As you identify and mark the parts,
separate them into groups, such as fuse
(fuselage), wing, fin and stab (stabilizer), and
hardware.
5
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
6
TAIL FEATHERS
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
Note: The construction sequence that
follows does not require building over
the
plans.
You
will
however,
occasionally need to refer to the plans.
D D 1. Glue the 1/4" balsa forward fin piece
(F154R01) to the 1/4" balsa aft fin piece
(F154R02) so their bottoms are even with each
other.
D D 3. Cut the 1/4" sq. x 7-7/8" basswood
stick (F154R04) in half to make two fin tips
approximately 3-7/8" long . Hold a fin tip in place
on top of the fin so the aft end just overlaps the fin
TE. Mark on the fin tip where the fin LE starts.
Remove the fin tip. Carve and sand the front of
the fin tip to a round cross section but do not sand
behind the line you just made.
D D 4. Glue the fin tip to the top of the fin.
Sand the aft edge of the tip flush with the fin TE.
D D 2. Using the plans as a guide, cut the top
2-1/2" off a 1/4" balsa rudder (F154R03) with a
razor saw. Glue the top portion to the aft fin piece
as shown above. The bottom edge of the top
portion should be parallel with the bottom edge of
the
fin.
D D 5. Use a sanding block with medium
(150) grit sandpaper to sand the edges and both
sides of the fin smooth. Carefully draw a
centerline all around the edges of the fin and
rudder. This will make it easier to maintain
symmetry when sanding later.
7
D D 6. Using a sanding block and coarse (50
or 80-grit) sandpaper, sand both sides of the
rudder to a taper (see cross-section on plans).
The trailing edge should end up approximately
3/32" wide. (Do not sand to a sharp edge). Leave
the top and bottom edges square. Sand the
leading edge of the rudder to a "V-shape" as
shown on the plan. HINT: It is a good idea to keep
new, sharp sandpaper on your sanding blocks.
You will notice that it "cuts" the wood and the glue
cleaner and produces a much smoother finish.
D D 7. Sand the leading edge of the fin to a
rounded shape (see cross-section on plans). Sand
the trailing edge of the fin (above the rudder) to
the same taper as the rudder. Do not sand the TE
of the fin where the rudder will be attached.
D 8. Go back to step 1 and build another fin and
rudder.
D D 2. Test fit the 1/4" balsa middle stab
piece (F154S02) in place. Sand it if necessary to
achieve a good fit and glue it in place. Sand the
root of the stab until all three pieces are even with
each other.
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND
ELEVATORS
D D 3. Position the 1/4" balsa elevator
(F154S04) over the plan and mark where the stab
tip will be cut off. Cut the tip off with a razor saw
and glue it to the stab rear. Do this over the plans
so you will be sure to position it correctly.
Note: The construction sequence that
follows does not require building over
the
plans.
You
will
however,
occasionally need to refer to the plans.
D D 1. Glue the 1/4" balsa forward stab
piece (F154S01) to the 1/4" balsa aft stab piece
(F154S03) so the root ends are even with each
other.
D D 4. Position the 1/4" x 1/2" x 18" balsa
stick (F154S05) over the plans and cut it in half at
an angle to make the stab leading edge
extensions. Glue an extension to the leading
edge of the stab, and sand it to match the contour
of the stab as shown on the plans.
8
D D 5. Use a sanding block with medium
(150) grit sandpaper to sand the edges and both
sides of the stab smooth. Carefully draw a
centerline all around the edges of the stab and
elevator. This will make it easier to maintain
symmetry when sanding later.
A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow
slit at the hinge location. The first cut is to
establish your cut in the right place, so
concentrate on staying on the line and
don't cut too deep.
D 6. Sand the tip and leading edges of the stab
to a rounded shape (see cross-section on plans).
D 7. Now go back and build the other side.
TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES
AND TORQUE RODS
D 1. Cut 24 hinges 3/4" x 1" from the 2" x 9" CA
hinge strip.
(NYLON87).
Clip off the corners
of each hinge.
Hinge Center Line
D 2. Using the plans as a guide, mark the hinge
locations on the stabs, elevators, fins and rudders.
Also designate one of each as being "right" and
the others as "left".
3/4-
B. Make three or four more cuts in the same
line, going slightly deeper each time. As
you make these additional cuts, work on
going straight into the wood. Continue this
process while "wiggling" the knife handle
forward and backward until the blade has
reached the proper depth for the hinge.
C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge
is difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and
move it back and forth in the slot a few
times to enlarge the slot. Do not glue the
hinges yet.
CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care
when cutting hinge slots with a hobby knife,
to avoid cutting yourself! If the balsa part
breaks while you are pushing on the knife,
the blade could go into your hand before
you know it! A good precaution is to wear
leather gloves while performing the
following steps.
D 2. Cut the hinge slots on the centerlines you
drew earlier. Our recommended hinge slotting
method is described in the next column.
D 4. Using the plans for reference, mark the
location of the torque rods on the elevators. Drill
a 1/8" hole 1-1/8" deep into each elevator as
shown in the photo.
D 5. Groove the elevator leading edge to accept
the torque rod wire. HINT: Use a hobby knife to
9
and 2" long, from the border of a die-cut 1/8" sheet.
Glue this piece to the inside of the stab tip. Sand it
to the contour of the stab as shown in the photo.
D 9. Trial fit all these parts together using the
torque rods and hinges. Check the operation of
the elevators, but do not glue anything yet.
sharpen the inside of one end of a 1/8" diameter
brass tube, and use it to cut this groove.
FUSELAGE
ASSEMBLY
PREPARE FUSE SIDES
D 6. Groove the stab TE to accept the torque
rod wire and nylon bearing tube. Ideally, the
torque rod should be centered on the elevator
hinge line. Use a sharpened 3/16" diameter brass
tube to cut the groove for the nylon bearing tube
and a 1/8" brass tube for the wire.
D 7. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or
80-grit) sandpaper, sand both sides of each
elevator to a taper (see cross-section on plans).
The trailing edge should end up approximately
3/32" wide (Do not sand to a sharp edge). Leave
the ends square. Sand the leading edge of the
elevator to a "V-shape" as shown on the plan.
Sand the trailing edge of the stab tip to the same
taper as the elevator.
D D 1. Working over the fuselage side view
covered with waxed paper, trial fit a die-cut 1/8"
balsa forward fuse side (F154F02), forward
fuse side top (F154F03) and aft fuse side
(F154F01) together, sanding as necessary for a
good fit. Use a straight edge along the bottoms to
keep them aligned and glue them together.
NOTE: If this is your second time
through, remember to make a right and
a left side.
D D 8. Cut a piece of 1/8" balsa, 1/4" wide
D D 2. Position a die-cut 3/32" balsa lower
fuse doubler (F154F11) by lining it up with the
landing gear block cut-out and the bottom of the
fuse side. Apply thin CA all around the doubler to
glue it in place.
10
D D 3. Position a die-cut 3/32" balsa upper
fuse side doubler (F154F08) near the top of the
fuse side so it fits against the lower fuse doubler.
Note that the aft portion of this doubler is recessed
1/8" below the top of the fuse side to allow for the
cockpit bottom. Glue the doubler to the fuse side
by applying thin CA around all edges of the
doubler.
NOTE: The doublers stop 1/4"
before the front of the fuse side to
align the firewall.
D 6. Drill a 3/16" hole at each of the two punch
marks on the die-cut 1/8" ply former F5 (F154F16).
Slide formers F5, F6 and F7 (F154F17) into their
respective slots and carefully twist them into place.
The photo shows the sequence used to
accomplish this. Slide the former into the slots,
and rotate them 90 degrees until they are
positioned as shown in the photo above. Do not
glue them yet. Make sure they are upright and
not inverted!
D D 4. Position a die-cut 3/32" balsa wing
saddle doubler (F154F10) as shown in the photo.
Notice that the aft edge of the front portion is
aligned with the aft edge of the fuse doubler top.
The top surface of the doubler should be flush with
the edge of the fuse side.
D 5. Go back to step 1 and build another
fuselage side. Be sure to make a right and a left
side!
NOTE - in the following steps, the
fuselage
will
be
assembled
without
being securely glued together. This
technique allows all of the self aligning
parts to be installed before the fuselage
is locked together with glue.
D 7. Drill a 3/16" hole at each of the two punch
marks on the die-cut 1/8" ply former F4 (F154F17).
Install F4 by sliding it up from the bottom of the
fuse. Tack glue it in place against the aft edge of
the landing gear block slot.
11
D 8. Securely glue die-cut 1/8" ply former F3B
to former F3A (F154F15). Align it with the hole
and the tabs in F3A as shown in the photo. Notice
that the nose gear doubler is the lightening
hole from F3. Save this piece. Drill 3/16" holes
at the two punch marks on F3A.
D 11. Flip former F2 over and drill a 5/64" hole at
each of the four nose gear bearing punch marks.
Also drill a 3/16" hole at the remaining punch mark
for the throttle pushrod. Attach the nylon nose
gear bearing (NYLON33) using four
#4 x 1/2" screws fSCRW004^.
D 9. Tack glue F3 in place in the fuselage with
F3B towards the nose of the plane. Only apply a
couple drops of thin CA on the bottom half of F3.
You will glue the top portion of the former later.
Apply a drop of thin CA to the
back side of each #4 screw to
keep them from vibrating loose.
D 12. Tack glue F2 into the fuse with a few drops
of thin CA. The nose gear bearing should be
towards the rear of the fuselage.
D 10. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply nose gear
doubler (from former F3A) to former F2
(F154F16). Locate it on the side opposite the
nose gear bearing punch marks and just above the
bottom of the former (not the tab) as shown.
D 13. Lay the die-cut 1/8" balsa aft fuse bottom
(F154F05) in place and allow the formers to key
into the notches in the bottom. Center the aft fuse
bottom on former F4 and tack glue it in place with
thin CA.
12
D 14. Slide the die-cut 1/8" ply servo tray
(F154F15) down into the slot through which F5
was inserted. It is a tight fit, but insert one tab into
the slot and then twist the other tab into place.
Slide the tray up against F-5 and glue it in place.
Now that the aft half of the fuselage is held
straight, add glue to F4, F5, F6, F7 and the aft fuse
bottom to securely hold everything together. We
recommend applying thin CA to all joints, followed
by medium CA.
sure they are accurately lined up with one another
and the side of F1A with the punch marks is
showing. Wipe off any excess glue before it
cures. Glue the 1/8" x 2-3/8" x 2-3/8" plywood
firewall doubler (F154F30) to F1B. It should be
positioned approximately 3/8" above the bottom of
the firewall and centered side to side.
D 17. If you are using the supplied Great Planes
Adjustable Engine Mount (EM4070), drill a 5/32"
hole at each of the four punch marks on the face of
the firewall. If you are using another mount, center
it on the embossed center lines to determine
where to drill the holes.
D 15. Lay the die-cut 1/8" balsa forward fuse
bottom (F154F04) in place and allow formers F2
and F3 to key into it. Center the forward fuse
bottom at the LG block and tack glue the fuse
bottom to the fuse sides between F-2 and the LG
block. Do not glue forward of F-2 at this time.
D 18. Lay the firewall down with F1A against the
work surface. Use a hammer to gently tap a 6-32
blind nut (NUTS003)mto each 5/32" hole.
Temporarily attach the
engine mount to the
firewall with the 6-32 x 1"
socket head bolts
(SCRW078) to make sure
the holes are in the
correct position. Adjust
the holes if necessary
and then add a bead of thick CA or epoxy around
each blind nut to hold them in place. Do not allow
the glue to get on the threads.
D 16. Locate the die-cut 1/8" ply F-1A and F1B
(F154F15) and use a fine sanding block to remove
any fuzzy edges. Use epoxy to glue the two
pieces together making a 1/4" thick firewall. Make
D 19. Use epoxy to securely glue the firewall into
place making sure it is centered on the forward
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fuse bottom. The firewall should be positioned
against the fuse doublers to properly set the
engine down thrust. Apply thin CA along the fuse
side/forward fuse bottom joint.
D 22. Pull the fuse sides up tight against the top
portion of former F3 and securely glue them in
place. Strapping tape can be used to hold the fuse
sides in place while the glue cures. Add glue to all
the front fuse joints to securely glue everything
together.
D 20. Slide the 1/2" x 30" balsa triangle stock
(WSTR014) through one of the triangular holes at
the bottom of the firewall until it touches former F2.
Cut the 1/2" triangle off flush with the front of the
firewall. Press the triangle into the corner formed
by the fuse side and the fuse bottom and apply
thin CA along the edges of the triangle. Install
another piece of 1/2" balsa triangle on the other
side of the fuselage. Sand the fuse sides, fuse
bottom and the triangle flush with the front of the
firewall.
D 21. Cut three 1-7/8" long pieces of 1/4" balsa
triangle from the 1/4" x 30" balsa triangle stock
(WSTR015) . Glue one of the pieces into the
corner formed by the firewall and the fuse bottom.
Glue the other two pieces into the corners formed
by the firewall and the fuse sides. Note: you may
need to trim the triangle to get it to fit.
D 23. Trial fit the die-cut 3/32" balsa forward
turbine side (F154F06), the aft turbine side
(F154F07) and the turbine side top(F154F08)
together on a flat surface covered with waxed
paper. Sand them if necessary to get them to fit
together nicely. Use a straight edge along the
bottom edges to keep them aligned and glue them
together with thin CA. Note: Do not lose the
die-cut gussets that are in F154F06.
D 24. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa forward
turbine top (F154F12) in place. Assemble the
other turbine side.
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D 25. Glue a die-cut 3/32" balsa turbine doubler
(F154F10) to each turbine side. They should be
aligned with the wing saddles. Be sure to make a
right and a left turbine side!
as shown in the photo. Make sure the bottom of
the former is flush with the bottom of both the fuse
side and the turbine side.
D 28. Install the other turbine side and front
turbine former using the same technique described
above.
D 26. Glue a turbine side onto formers F4 and
F5. Pull the turbine side up against former F7 and
make sure the bottom of the turbine side is level
with the bottom of the former. Glue it to the former.
Do the same for former F6 and then go back and
add thick CA to each joint.
D 29. Test fit the 7/16" x 5/8" x 6-5/8" grooved
basswood landing gear block (F154F21) into its
slot in the bottom of the fuselage. Trim the slot or
sand the ends of the block if necessary to get the
landing gear block to fit. Securely glue it in place.
D 27. Snap the die-cut 1/8" balsa front turbine
former (F154F13) into its slots and glue it in place
D 30. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa fuselage side
landing gear doublers (F154F08) to the outside
of each fuse side as shown in the photo.
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