Frymaster H17 User Manual

*8195794*

H14/H17/H22 SERIES

ELECTRIC FRYERS

Service & Parts Manual

Beginning with Series Code AN

Frymaster, a member of the Commercial Food Equipment Service Association, recommends using CFESA Certified Technicians.

24-Hour Service Hotline 1-800-551-8633

AUG 2005

NOTICE IF, DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD, THE CUSTOMER USES A PART FOR THIS ENODIS EQUIPMENT OTHER THAN AN UNMODIFIED NEW OR RECYCLED PART

PURCHASED DIRECTLY FROM FRYMASTER/DEAN, OR ANY OF ITS AUTHORIZED

SERVICE CENTERS, AND/OR THE PART BEING USED IS MODIFIED FROM ITS

ORIGINAL CONFIGURATION, THIS WARRANTY WILL BE VOID. FURTHER,

FRYMASTER/DEAN AND ITS AFFILIATES WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY

CLAIMS, DAMAGES OR EXPENSES INCURRED BY THE CUSTOMER WHICH

ARISE DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY, IN WHOLE OR IN PART, DUE TO THE

INSTALLATION OF ANY MODIFIED PART AND/OR PART RECEIVED FROM AN

UNAUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER.

DANGER

Copper wire suitable for at least 167°F (75°C) MUST be used for power

connections.

DANGER

The electrical power supply for this appliance MUST be the same as

indicated on the rating and serial number plate located on the inside of the

fryer door.

DANGER This appliance MUST be connected to the voltage and phase as specified

on the rating and serial number plate located on the inside of the fryer

door.

DANGER

All wiring connections for this appliance MUST be made in accordance

with the wiring diagrams furnished with the equipment. Wiring diagrams

are located on the inside of the fryer door.

DANGER

Do not store or use gasoline or other flammable vapors and liquids in the

vicinity of this or any other appliance.

WARNING

Do not attach accessories to this fryer unless fryer is secured from tipping.

Personal injury may result.

WARNING

Frymaster fryers equipped with legs are for permanent installations. Fryers

fitted with legs must be lifted during movement to avoid damage and

possible bodily injury. For a moveable or portable installation, Frymaster

optional equipment casters must be used.

Questions? Call 1-800-551-8633

WARNING

Do not use water jets to clean this equipment.

DANGER

All wiring connections for this appliance MUST be made in accordance

with the wiring diagrams furnished with the equipment. Wiring diagrams

are located on the inside of the fryer door.

WARNING

This equipment is intended for indoor use only. Do not install or operate

this equipment in outdoor areas.

Electrical Requirements

MODEL VOLTAGE PHASE WIRE

SERVICE

H14 208 3 3 6 (16) 39 39 39 H14 240 3 3 6 (16) 34 34 34 H14 480 3 3 8 (10) 17 17 17 H14 220/380 3 4 6 (16) 21 21 21 H14 240/415 3 4 6 (16) 20 20 21 H14 230/400 3 4 6 (16) 21 21 21 ALL

EPH14

SERIES

(SOLID STATE)

H17 208 3 3 6 (16) 48 48 48 H17 240 3 3 6 (16) 41 41 41 H17 480 3 3 6 (16) 21 21 21 H17 220/380 3 4 6 (16) 26 26 26 H17 240/415 3 4 6 (16) 24 24 24

` 230/400 3 4 6 (16) 25 25 25

ALL 208 3 3 6 (16) 48 48 48

EPH17

SERIES

(SOLID STATE)

H22 208 3 3 4 (25) 61 61 61 H22 240 3 3 4 (25) 53 53 53 H22 480 3 3 6 (16) 27 27 27 H22 220/380 3 4 6 (16) 34 34 34 H22 240/415 3 4 6 (16) 31 31 31 H22 230/400 3 4 6 (16) 32 32 32

208 3 3 6 (16) 39 39 39

240 3 3 6 (16) 34 34 34 220/380 3 4 6 (16) 21 21 21 240/415 3 4 6 (16) 20 20 20

240 3 3 6 (16) 41 41 41 220/380 3 4 6 (16) 26 26 26 240/415 3 4 6 (16) 24 24 24

MIN. SIZE

AWG

(mm2)

AMPS PER LEG

L1 L2 L3

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page #

CHAPTER 1 – SERVICE PROCEDURES

1.1 General

1.2 Replace Computer Controller 1-1

1.3 Replace Interface Board 1-2

1.4 Replace Transformer 1-3

1.5 Replace Temperature Probe 1-3

1.6 Replace Heating Element 1-6

1.7 Replace High-Limit 1-9

1.8 Replace Frypot 1-10

1.9 Replace Contactor 1-10

1.10 Built-in Filter System Service Procedures 1-12

1.11 Basket Lift Service Procedures 1-17

1.12 Electric Interface Board Diagnostic Chart 1-20

1.13 Simplified Wiring Diagrams, Common Electric 1-21

1.14 Wiring Diagrams, Main 1-26

1.15 Wiring Diagrams, Basket Lifts 1-32

1.16 Wiring Diagrams, Filtration Systems 1-34

CHAPTER 2 – PARTS LIST 2-1

2.1 Accessories 2-1

2.2 Basket Lift Assemblies and Component Parts 2-2

2.3 Cabinet Assemblies and Component Parts 2-4

2.4 Casters, Legs and Associated Hardware 2-12

2.5 Component Box Assemblies and Associated Hardware

2.6 Control Panels Assemblies, Doors, and Related Components

2.7 Controller Assemblies

2.8 Electrical Components 2-18

2.9 Filter Base/Pan Assemblies

2.10 Filter Pump and Motor Assemblies and Associated Hardware 2-33

2.11 Drain System Components

2.12 Filtration System Components 2-39

2.13 Frypot Assemblies and Drain Valve Components 2-42

2.14 High-Limit Thermostat and Related Components

1-1

2-14

2-15

2-17

2-25

2-38

2-44

H14/H17/H22 SERIES ELECTRIC FRYERS

CHAPTER 1: SERVICE PROCEDURES

1.1 General

Before performing any maintenance on your Frymaster fryer, you must disconnect the electrical power supply.

When electrical wires are disconnected, it is recommended that they be marked in such a way as to facilitate re-assembly.

1.2 Replace Computer/Controller

1. Unscrew and remove two control panel

screws.

2. Control panel is hinged at the bottom and will

swing open from the top.

3. Unplug wiring harness at plug on back of

controller.

4. Control panel including controller can be

removed by lifting the assembly from the hinged slots in the control panel frame.

5. Reverse procedures to install new controller.

1-1

1.3 Replace Interface Board

1. Unplug all power cords. Perform Procedure 1.2, Steps 1-4, Replace Computer/Controller.

2. Unplug wire harness from the interface

board. Remove all wiring from the terminals of the interface board, ensuring that each wire is marked for reattachment.

3. Remove the screws securing the control panel

frame. Set the control panel frame/screws aside.

4. Remove the screws securing the top cap. Set

the top cap/screws aside.

5. Remove the screws securing the component

box. Set the component box drop down enough so that the wire harness can be unplugged from the back of the assembly.

6. Remove the nuts from each corner of the

interface board and slide the board from the studs. Ensure that standoffs remain in place on studs, prior to installing new interface board. Install the new interface board by reversing the previous procedures. Ensure that wire harnesses are connected to back of interface board prior to securing component box. Also ensure that wiring and wire harnesses are connected to the proper terminals.

Screws securing control panel frame

Wire harness/connector

Nuts securing interface board

1-2

1.4 Replace Transformer

1. Unplug all power cords. Perform Procedure 1.2, Steps 1-4, Replace Computer/Controller.

2. Remove all wiring from the terminals of the

transformer to be replaced.

3. Remove the screws that secure the

transformer to the component box.

4. Install the new transformer by reversing the

preceding procedures. Make sure you reconnect the wiring to the proper terminals and the harnesses to the correct connectors.

Screws securing transformers

1.5 Replace Temperature Probe

1. Unplug fryer from the electrical source.

2. Drain the cooking oil from the frypot.

3. Remove the fryer from the exhaust hood to gain access to the rear of the fryer.

4. Remove the screws from the top, center and

bottom back covers. Set the covers and screws aside.

5. Remove the screws securing the tilt housing

cover. Set the tilt housing cover aside.

Screws securing back covers and tilt housing

1-3

6. Disconnect the wire harness containing the

probe wiring. It may be necessary to remove the wire ties.

7. Use a pin-pusher (P/N 806-4855 or P/N 807-

0928—see Section 1.7) to remove the probe wires from the connector. Mark each wire for re-assembly.

8. Remove the screw(s) securing the probe

bracket to the element.

9. Thread the probe wire through the hole in the

tilt plate assembly and remove the probe and the securing components from the element.

10. Remove the probe from the probe bracket.

Place the new probe into the bracket.

Use a pin-pusher to remove probe wires from connector

Pin-pusher (Frymaster P/N 806-4855)

Thread probe wire through hole in tilt plate assembly, then remove probe and components from element.

1-4

11. Place the new temperature probe assembly

onto the element and secure with the screws removed earlier. Clip the probe onto the rear of the element. The temperature probe assembly should be oriented in the same manner as the probe being replaced.

12. Thread the probe wires into the harness

connector as removed in Step 7.

13. Lower the element into the frypot.

14. Place the tilt housing cover over the tilt

housing assembly and secure with screws

15. Install the top, center and bottom back covers

and secure with screws.

Secure probe to element with metal wire-wrap

Tilt housing cover in place

New probe assembly properly installed in tilt plate

1-5

1.6 Replace Heating Element

1. Perform Procedure 1.5, Replace Temperature Probe, Steps 1-7.

2. Remove the element wires from the

connector. Press down on either side of the connector while pulling up on the top portion. The connector will open from the top. Pull all wires from the connector.

3. Remove the screws securing the temperature

probe bracket from the element. Remove the probe clamp (metal wire-wrap). Set the temperature probe and probe-securing components aside.

4. Disconnect the element springs.

Push in on tabs to release

Remove probe clamp (metal wire-wrap), and screws securing probe bracket to element.

Harness

Connector

Closed

top portion

Harness

Connector

Open

Top Portion

1-6

Disconnect element springs here

5. Remove the element mounting-screws and

pull the element out of the frypot (split-vats). On full-vat elements, remove the element clamps and hardware before removing mounting-screws and nuts on the defective element.

6. Install the replacement element in the frypot

and secure with the mounting screws removed in Step 5.

7. Re-install the temperature probe and probe-

securing components onto the replacement element.

8. Route the element leads (terminals) to the

rear of the fryer. Ensure that chafing guards are in place to prevent wire chafing while raising and lowering elements.

Front

Back

Element mounting-screws and nuts. (Inset Photoback of tilt plate)

Proper element-wire routing is essential to prevent wire chafing while raising and lowering elements.

Chafing guards on cabinet edges also help prevent wire chafing while raising and lowering elements.

1-7

9. When replacing the right element (as viewed

from the rear of the fryer), insert pin terminals into the corresponding pin-holes in the 6-pin connector. When all pin terminals have been fully inserted, close the connector by sliding the halves together until the tabs snap back into place (reverse procedure in Step 2).

10. When replacing the left element (as viewed

from the rear of the fryer), use the 9-pin connector, inserting the leads from the replacement element and closing the connector, see previous step.

11. Insert the connector(s) into the receptacle(s)

on the rear of the contactor box, ensuring that the latches lock the connectors in place (see Step 9).

12. Install the temperature probe wires (marked

for re-assembly) in the corresponding pin locations.

13. Reconnect the element spring.

14. Place the tilt housing cover over the tilt

housing assembly and secure with screws.

15. Install covers and secure with screws.

16. Position fryer under exhaust hood.

Left Element— 9-Pin Connector

Right Element— 6-Pin Connector

1-8

1.7 Replace High-Limit

1. Perform Procedure 1.5, Replace Temperature

Probe, Steps 1-4.

2. Disconnect the wire harness containing the

high-limit wires.

3. Use a pin-pusher (P/N 806-4855 or P/N 807-

0928) to remove the two high-limit wires from the wire harness connector. For splitpot fryers, remove only the wires for the high-limit to be replaced. Mark each wire for re-assembly.

4. Remove the high-limit from the frypot using

an open-end wrench or other suitable tool.

5. Apply Loc-Tite PST 567 sealant to the

replacement high-limit threads.

6. Screw the replacement high-limit into the

frypot and tighten securely. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

7. Insert the replacement high-limit wires into

the proper pin-holes in the connector. The same two pin-holes from which the defective high-limit wires were removed.

8. Reconnect the wire harness connector.

9. Install and secure the back covers.

10. Position the fryer under the exhaust hood.

Proper element-wire routing is essential to prevent wire chafing while raising and lowering elements.

Pin Pusher— P/N 807-0928

Place wrench here when removing and installing high-limit.

1-9

1.8 Replace Frypot

1. Perform Procedure 1.5, Replace Temperature Probe, Steps 1-7.

2. Perform Procedure 1.2, Replace Computer/Controller, Steps 1-6.

3. Disconnect the wire harness containing the high-limit wires.

4. Use a pin-pusher to remove the high-limit wires from the wire harness connector.

5. Remove the high-limit from the frypot.

6. Disconnect the wire-harnesses connected to the contactor box.

7. Remove the screws securing the capping piece from the fryer. Remove the capping piece and set

aside. It may be necessary to remove the wiring covers from the front of the contactor box.

8. If the fryer has a built-in filtration system, remove all the plumbing from the frypot, including

rear-flush and square-drain plumbing.

9. Remove the screws securing the frypot to the front frame of the fryer.

10. Carefully lift the frypot from the cabinet.

11. Remove the drain valve from the old frypot and install on the new frypot.

12. Apply Loc-Tite Sealant PST 567 to the high-limit threads. Install the high-limit into the new

frypot.

13. Disconnect the tilt plate springs from the old frypot.

14. Remove the securing screws from the tilt plate. Lift the tilt plate/heating element assembly from

the old frypot and install on the new frypot.

15. Follow the preceding steps in reverse to install the new frypot into the fryer.

16. NOTE: Apply Loc-Tite Sealant PST 567 to all pipefittings prior to installation.

1.9 Replace Contactor

1. Perform Procedure 1.4, Replace Temperature Probe, Steps 1-3.

2. Remove the screws securing the bottom and center rear access covers. Set the screws and covers

aside.

1-10

3. If present, remove the screws securing the

wiring covers to the front of the contactor box (optional on old-style contactor boxes). Set the screws and covers aside.

4. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the front

and rear of the contactor box.

5. Remove the screws securing the contactor

box to the bottom frame of the fryer.

6. Pull the contactor box through the access

opening in the rear of the fryer.

7. Remove the screws securing the contactor

box cover. Set the screws and covers aside.

8. Remove all wiring connected to the contactor

terminals inside the contactor box. Mark each wire for re-assembly.

Screws securing wire cover to contactor box (optional on old-style contactor boxes)

Screw location securing contactor box to bottom frame

Mark each wire for re-assembly, then remove all wiring connected to the contactor(s) to be replaced.

1-11

9. Remove the contactor mounting screws and

remove the contactor.

10. Install the new contactor and connect the

wiring removed in Step 8.

11. Install the contactor box by following the

previous steps in reverse order.

Contactor mounting screws

Latching Contactor

Mercury Contactor

1.10 Built-in Filter System Service Procedures

Filtration Problem Resolution

One of the most common errors is placing the filter paper on the bottom of the filter pan rather than over the filter screen.

CAUTION

Ensure that filter screen is in place prior to filter paper placement and filter pump

operation. Improper screen placement is the major cause of filter system

malfunction.

Whenever the complaint is “the pump is running, but no oil is being filtered,” check the installation of the filter paper, and ensure that the correct size is being used. While you are checking the filter paper, verify that the O-ring on the bottom of the filter pan is present and in good condition. A missing or worn O-ring allows the pump to take in air and decreases its efficiency. Also, oil leaks on the floor each time a vat is drained.

1-12

If the pump motor overheats, the thermal overload will trip and the motor will not start until it is reset. If the pump motor does not start, press the red reset switch (button) located on the rear of the motor.

If the pump starts after resetting the thermal overload switch, then something is causing the motor to overheat. A major cause of overheating is when several frypots are filtered sequentially, thus overheating the pump and motor. Allow the pump motor to cool at least 30 minutes before resuming operation.

Pump overheating can be caused by:

• Solidified shortening in the pan or filter

lines,

• Attempting to filter unheated oil or

shortening.

Cold oil and shortening are more viscous, causing the pump motor to load up and overheat.

If the motor runs but the pump does not, there is a blockage in the pump. Incorrectly sized or installed paper/pads will allow food particles and sediment to pass through the filter pan and into the pump. When sediment enters the pump, the gears bind, causing the motor to overload, again tripping the thermal overload. Shortening that has solidified in the pump will also cause it to seize, with the same result.

A pump seized by debris or hard shortening can usually be freed by manually moving the gears with a screwdriver or other instrument.

Disconnect power to the filter system.

Remove the input plumbing from the pump.

Reset switch location: Old-style FPIII

Reset switch location: New-style FPIII

Sediment Particle

Oil Flow

Up for reverse

Down for forward

1-13

Freeing a seized pump.

Use a screwdriver to manually turn the gears, in which:

● Turning the pump gears in reverse will release a hard particle.

● Turning the pump gears forward will push softer objects and solid shortening through the

pump and allow free movement of the gears.

Incorrectly sized or installed paper/pads will also allow food particles and sediment to pass through and clog the suction tube on the bottom of the filter carriage. Particles large enough to block the suction tube may indicate that the crumb tray is not being used.

Pan blockage can also occur if shortening is left in the pan and allowed to solidify. The heater strip on the suction tube is designed to prevent residual shortening from solidifying in the tube. Heater strips do not prevent residual shortening from solidifying in the pan.

Blockage removal can be accomplished by forcing the item out with an auger or drain snake. Compressed air or other pressurized gases should not be used to force out the blockage.

For FootPrint III systems built before October, 1999, all heater tapes are wired directly into the line VAC source (see wiring diagram, page 1-15). They remain energized as long as the unit is plugged in. In systems built in October, 1999 and later, oil return line heater tapes have been eliminated. In these units, the only heater tape used is on the suction tube and pump. This tape is still wired directly into the line voltage. A pair of vacuum-breaking solenoids is wired into the 24 VAC circuit.

The redesigned FPIII is distinguished from the original design by the absence of casters on the filter base assembly. The redesign incorporated an improved oil return system that allows oil/shortening

to drain back to the filter pan when the filter system is turned off, eliminating the need for most heated oil return components.

1-14

Line VAC

All Heater Tapes (Original and

Redesigned Models)

(Heater Tapes have been removed from

return lines in Redesigned Models)

VAC

Solenoids

(Redesigned Models Only)

Micro-switches

Pump Relay

Coil

Pump Motor

Pump Motor Switch

FootPrint III Wiring Diagram

Operation of the redesigned FP-III system is the same as for the original design.

ORIGINAL VS REDESIGNED FP-III FILTRATION SYSTEM

Original System Redesigned System

Return lines and manifolds wrapped with silicone strip heaters and aluminum tape. Filter base assembly connected to unit with a black, heated return hose beneath the filter.

Filter base assembly equipped with swivel casters. Operator-removable filter base assembly. (Filter base assembly stop-locks in cabinet can be rotated to remove tray.)

Oil/shortening remains in return lines when filter system is turned off.

Return drain-manifolds are constructed with pipe nipples, elbows and other plumbing components.

No heater strips or aluminum tape on return lines. Non-heated Teflon hose with a swivel joint connects the filter base assembly to the unit above the filter. Filter base assembly has no casters.

Filter base assembly is not removable except by a qualified service technician. (Filter base assembly stop-locks fitted with a screw and nut to prevent filter removal.) Oil/shortening drains back to the filter pan when filter system is turned off, leaving no oil or shortening in return lines. Return drain manifolds are one-piece with an inline solenoid valve to facilitate drain to filter pan.

1-15

Line VAC

Transformer

24VAC

Microswitches

Pump Relay Coil

Pump Motor

Relay Contacts

Pump Heater

Filter Magic Simplified Wiring Diagram

1-16

1.11 Basket Lift Service Procedures

H14/H17/H22 Series fryers may optionally be equipped with automatic basket lifts to ensure uniform cooking times. Basket lifts will always come in pairs, although each operates independently.

All electric fryers are equipped with “modular” basket lifts.

A modular basket lift (illustrated below) consists of a toothed rod to which the basket lift arm is attached, a reversible-drive gear motor, and a pair of roller-activated microswitches. The gear motor engages the teeth in the rod, moving it up or down, depending upon the direction of rotation of the motor. Microswitches at the upper and lower limits of movement stop the motor when the basket is in the full up or full down position.

Timing circuitry in the controller initiates and stops basket lift operation depending upon the variables programmed by the operator. When the product button is pressed, the timing circuitry activates a coil in the basket lift relay to supply power to the lower microswitch. The microswitches stop the motor at the lift’s upper and lower travel limits and reverse the direction of current flow thus reversing the motor direction.

Modular Basket LIft Assembly (Typical)

1-17

Simplified Schematic

1 or 4

To computer/controller via

interface board

Basket Lift

Relay

Normally Open Upper-limit

Microswitch

Normally Closed Lower-limit

Microswitch

When the product button is pushed on the computer/controller, current flows through a coil in the basket lift relay, causing the lower circuit to be activated. The basket lift lowers, closing the normally open upper-micro-switch. When the lower normally closed microswitch is opened by the downward moving lift rod, power to the motor ceases to flow. When the computer/controller times-out, the current to the relay coil is cut, allowing the upper circuit to be activated. The basket lift then raises and re-closes the lower microswitch. When the basket lift rod clears the upper micro-switch, the micro-switch reopens and power to the circuit is cut and the motor stops. Pushing the product button restarts the cycle.

Problems with the modular basket lift design can be grouped into three categories:

●

Binding/jamming problems

● Motor and gear problems

Electronics problems

●

1-18

BINDING/JAMMING PROBLEMS

Noisy, jerky or erratic movement of the lifts is usually due to lack of lubrication of the rods and their bushings. Apply a light coat of Lubriplate® or similar lightweight white grease to the rod and bushings to correct the problem.

With the modular basket lift, another possible cause of binding is improper positioning of the motor, which prevents the gear from correctly engaging the teeth in the rod. To correct the problem, loosen the screws that hold the motor in place and move it forward or backward until the rod has just enough slack to be rotated slightly.

MOTOR AND GEAR PROBLEMS

With the modular basket lift, the most likely problem to be encountered in this category is erratic motion of the lift due to a worn drive gear. Failure to keep the lift rod and bushings properly lubricated will cause unnecessary wear of the gear. The problem is corrected by replacing the worn gear.

If the lift cycles correctly but fails to remain in the up position (i.e., goes up, but then slowly settles back down into the frypot), the problem is a failed motor brake. A failed motor brake cannot be repaired and requires replacement of the motor itself.

If power is reaching the motor but the motor fails to run, the motor is burned out and must be replaced.

ELECTRONICS PROBLEMS

Within this category are problems associated with the relays, microswitches, capacitors, resistors, interface board, wiring, and controls. The most common problem in this category is a lift that continuously travels up and down. This is usually caused by a microswitch that is out of adjustment.

Troubleshooting the electronics of a modular-type basket lift is simply a process of verifying current flow through the individual components up to and including the motor. Using a multimeter set to the 250 VAC range, check the connections on both sides of the component for the presence of the applied line voltage. The accompanying simplified wiring diagrams identify the components and wiring connection points.

1-19

1.12 Electric Interface Board Diagnostic Chart

The following diagram and charts provide ten quick system checks that can be performed using only a multimeter.

Note: The sealed relays

are not replaceable. If a relay fails the interface

K3 K4

board must be replaced.

Diagnostic LED Legend

CMP indicates power from 12V transformer 24 indicates power from 24V transformer HI (RH) indicates output (closed) from right latch

relay

HI (LH) indicates output (closed) from left latch

relay HT (RH) indicates output from right heat relay HT (LH) indicates output from left heat relay AL (RH) indicates output (open) from right latch

relay AL (LH) indicates output (open) from left latch

relay

Meter Setting Test Pin Pin Results

12 VAC Power 50 VAC Scale 1 of J2 3 of J2 12-16 VAC 24 VAC Power 50 VAC Scale 2 of J2 Chassis 24-30 VAC *Probe Resistance (RH) R X 1000 OHMS 11 of J2 12 of J2 See Chart *Probe Resistance (LH) R X 1000 OHMS 3 of J1 2 of J1 See Chart Hi-Limit Continuity (RH) R X 1 OHMS 7 of J2 4 of J2 0 - OHMS Hi-Limit Continuity (LH) R X 1 OHMS 4 of J1 7 of J1 0 - OHMS Latch Contactor Coil (RH) R X 1 OHMS 8 of J2 Chassis 3-10 OHMS Latch Contactor Coil (LH) R X 1 OHMS 5 of J1 Chassis 3-10 OHMS Heat Contactor Coil (RH) R X 1 OHMS 9 of J2 Chassis 18-25 OHMS Heat Contactor Coil (LH) R X 1 OHMS 6 of J1 Chassis 18-25 OHMS

*Disconnect 15-Pin harness from the computer/controller before testing the probe circuit.

1-20

1.13 Simplified Wiring Diagrams, Common Electric

CONTROL CIRCUIT

COMMON ELECTRIC H14/H17/H22 SERIES— FULL-VAT

FUSES

312

GND

3 PHASE POWER TERMINALS

LATCHING

CONTACTOR

HEATING

CONTACTOR

C6-8

J2-9

COMPUTER/CONTROLLER

HEAT

C1-8

J2-8

HEAT

RELAY

TEMP

PROBE

HIGH

LIMIT

24V

12V

24V

DRAIN

SAFETY

FIRE

CUT-OFF

11 122147

FUSE

SWITCH

24V

LATCH

RELAY

COMP

10 13

TROUBLE

ON/OFF

POWER ON

1-21

INTERFACE

BOARD

GND

312

LATCHING

CONTACTOR

HEATING

CONTACTOR

C6-8

3 PHASE POWER TERMINALS

J2-8

TEMP

PROBE

11 121

24V

HIGH

LIMIT

12V

HIGH

LIMIT

DRAIN

SAFETY

SWITCH

SAFETY

SWITCH

24V

COMP

J2-5

HEAT

RELAY

LATCH

RELAY

J2-9

14 1310

HEAT

14 4

10 13

TROUBLE

POWER

TEMP

COMMON ELECTRIC H14/H17/H22 SERIES— DUAL-VAT

J1 J2

PROBE

1213

J2-10

J1-5

LATCH

RELAY

HEAT

RELAY

J1-6

2614

15 12

TROUBLE

HEAT

C6-14

HEATING

LATCHING

CONTACTOR

COMPUTER/

CONTROLLER

1-22

+ 60 hidden pages