Frymaster, a member of the Commercial Food Equipment Service Association, recommends
using CFESA Certified Technicians.
24-Hour Service Hotline 1-800-551-8633
JUNE 2009
*8196083*
Email: service@frymaster.com
NOTICE
IF, DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD, THE CUSTOMER USES A PART FOR THIS ENODIS
EQUIPMENT OTHER THAN AN UNMODIFIED NEW OR RECYCLED PART PURCHASED
DIRECTLY FROM FRYMASTER DEAN, OR ANY OF ITS AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTERS,
AND/OR THE PART BEING USED IS MODIFIED FROM ITS ORIGINAL CONFIGURATION, THIS
WARRANTY WILL BE VOID. FURTHER, FRYMASTER DEAN AND ITS AFFILIATES WILL NOT BE
LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIMS, DAMAGES OR EXPENSES INCURRED BY THE CUSTOMER WHICH
ARISE DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY, IN WHOLE OR IN PART, DUE TO THE INSTALLATION OF
ANY MODIFIED PART AND/OR PART RECEIVED FROM AN UNAUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER.
NOTICE
This appliance is intended for professional use only and is to be operated by qualified
personnel only. A Frymaster DEAN Factory Authorized Service Center (FASC) or other qualified
professional should perform installation, maintenance, and repairs. Installation, maintenance,
or repairs by unqualified personnel may void the manufacturer’s warranty. See Chapter 1 of
this manual for definitions of qualified personnel.
NOTICE
This equipment must be installed in accordance with the appropriate national and local codes of
the country and/or region in which the appliance is installed. See NATIONAL CODE
REQUIREMENTS in Chapter 2 of this manual for specifics.
NOTICE TO U.S. CUSTOMERS
This equipment is to be installed in compliance with the basic plumbing code of the Building
Officials and Code Administrators International, Inc. (BOCA) and the Food Service Sanitation
Manual of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
NOTICE
Drawings and photos used in this manual are intended to illustrate operational, cleaning and
technical procedures and may not conform to onsite management operational procedures.
NOTICE TO OWNERS OF UNITS EQUIPPED WITH COMPUTERS
U.S.
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC rules. Operation is subject to the following two
conditions: 1) This device may not cause harmful interference, and 2) This device must accept
any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation. While
this device is a verified Class A device, it has been shown to meet the Class B limits.
CANADA
This digital apparatus does not exceed the Class A or B limits for radio noise emissions as set
out by the ICES-003 standard of the Canadian Department of Communications.
Cet appareil numerique n’emet pas de bruits radioelectriques depassany les limites de classe A
et B prescrites dans la norme NMB-003 edictee par le Ministre des Communcations du Canada.
DANGER
Improper installation, adjustment, maintenance or service, and unauthorized alterations or
modifications can cause property damage, injury, or death. Read the installation, operating,
and service instructions thoroughly before installing or servicing this equipment. Only qualified
service personnel may convert this appliance to use a gas other than that for which it was
originally configured.
DANGER
No structural material on the fryer should be altered or removed to accommodate placement of
the fryer under a hood. Questions? Call the Frymaster Dean Service Hotline at 1-800-551-8633.
DANGER
Adequate means must be provided to limit the movement of this appliance without depending
upon the gas line connection. Single fryers equipped with legs must be stabilized by installing
anchor straps. All fryers equipped with casters must be stabilized by installing restraining
chains. If a flexible gas line is used, an additional restraining cable must be connected at all
times when the fryer is in use.
DANGER
The front ledge of the fryer is not a step! Do not stand on the fryer. Serious injury can result
from slips or contact with the hot oil.
DANGER
Do not store or use gasoline or other flammable liquids or vapors in the vicinity of this or any
other appliance.
DANGER
Instructions to be followed in the event the operator smells gas or otherwise detects a gas leak
must be posted in a prominent location. This information can be obtained from the local gas
company or gas supplier.
DANGER
This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and/or birth
defects or other reproductive harm.
Operation, installation, and servicing of this product could expose you to airborne particles of
glasswool or ceramic fibers, crystalline silica, and/or carbon monoxide. Inhalation of airborne
particles of glasswool or ceramic fibers is known to the State of California to cause cancer.
Inhalation of carbon monoxide is known to the State of California to cause birth defects or other
reproductive harm.
DANGER
The crumb tray in fryers equipped with a filter system must be emptied into a fireproof container
at the end of frying operations each day. Some food particles can spontaneously combust if left
soaking in certain shortening material.
WARNING
Do not bang fry baskets or other utensils on the fryer’s joiner strip. The strip is present to seal
the joint between the fry vessels. Banging fry baskets on the strip to dislodge shortening will
distort the strip, adversely affecting its fit. It is designed for a tight fit and should only be
removed for cleaning.
1.2 Accessing Fryers for Servicing ..................................................................................................................... 1-4
1.3 Cleaning the Gas Valve Vent Tube............................................................................................................... 1-5
1.4 Checking the Burner Manifold Gas Pressure ................................................................................................ 1-5
Pro (H50/55) Series gas fryers contain a welded stainless steel frypot that is directly heated by a high
efficiency infrared burner system requiring approximately 43% less energy than conventional
burners to cook the same volume.
Self-contained combustion chambers (referred to as “burners”) are fitted into rails attached to the
sides of the frypot, one on each side. Each combustion chamber is fitted with special ceramic tiles
that are heated by burning a forced air/gas mixture. The tiles transfer heat to the frypot by means of
infrared radiation, providing much more constant and uniform heat dispersion over the surface of the
frypot than conventional burners. Because less heat is lost to the atmosphere in the process,
compared to “open-burner” designs, less fuel is required to achieve and maintain temperature.
In full-vat units, gas flow to both of the burners is regulated by one electromechanical gas valve. In
dual-vat units, each burner has its own valve. All fryers in this series are equipped with 24 VAC gas
valve systems and electronic ignition.
1.1.1 Electronic Ignition System
An ignition module mounted in the component box
Inside the Ignition Module
(located behind the control panel) is connected to an
ignitor assembly at the burner. The ignition module
performs four important functions: it provides fuse
Out to
Gas Valve
To Alarm
protection for the 24-volt circuit, provides an ignition
spark, supplies voltage to the gas valve, and proofs the
25 V +
burner flame. The module contains a 4-second time delay
circuit and a coil that activates the gas valve. Three types
are in use. A closed-box design is used in most fryers, but
in some fryers built for export, the module resembles an
interface board. A single dual-spark module is used on
HV
GND
Coil
TD
current production full-vat fryers. All dual-vat fryers use
two single-spark modules.
Ignition WireFlame Sensor
The ignitor assembly consists of a spark plug, an
enrichment tube, and a flame sensor.
At start-up, the power switch is placed in the ON position, supplying approximately 12-volts DC to
the heat-control circuitry in the controller or computer and to one side of the heat relay coils on the
interface board. If resistance in the temperature probe indicates the temperature in the frypot is
below 180ºF (82ºC), the current flows through a melt cycle circuit where a timer switch alternately
closes for 6 seconds and opens for 24 seconds. If the temperature is 180ºF (82ºC) or above, the
current flows through a heat circuit, bypassing the timer switch. In either case, ground is supplied to
the other leg of the heat relay coils, which then close electronic switches in the 24 VAC circuit to
provide current to the ignition module. Circuitry in the ignition module sends 24 VAC to the gas
1-1
valve via a normally closed high-limit switch (and, in fryers with built-in filtration systems, a
normally closed drain safety switch). Simultaneously, the module causes the ignitor to spark for 4
seconds to light the burner. A flame sensor verifies the burner ignition by measuring the flow of
microamps through the flame. If the burner does not light (or is extinguished), current to the
ignition module is cut, the gas valve closes, and the ignition module “locks out” until the power
switch is turned off and then back on. A probe monitors the temperature in the frypot. When the
programmed setpoint temperature is reached, resistance in the probe causes the heat cycle circuitry
in the controller to cut off current flow through the heat relay. This in turn cuts off the 24 VAC to
the ignition module, causing the gas valve to close.
1.1.2 Interface Board
The information contained in this section applies to Pro (H50/55) Series gas fryers ONLY.
All fryers in this series have an interface board located in the component box behind the control
panel. The interface board provides a link between the controller/computer and the fryer’s
individual components without requiring excessive wiring, and allows the controller to execute
commands from one central point. This standard interface board is also used in a number of fryer
types besides the Pro Series.
K2 and K3 are double-pole-double-throw (dpdt) relays that supply 24VAC to the ignition and gas
valve circuits, as well as 120VAC to the blower motor. The relays on this board plug into sockets,
and if either fails, it can be replaced individually.
LEDs (labeled D1 through D7) are arrayed around the board to assist in troubleshooting.
GND
J1
GND
V2D
PWR
AD
AS
V2S
SOUND
1
2
3
3 6 9 12
2 5 8 11
1 4 7 10
D1
D2
GND
J2
GV
PWR
BLOWER
INTERFACE BOARD P/N 106-0386
K1
HEAT
RELAY
AND
MOTOR
RELAY
K2K3
13
10741
11852
14
15
12963
K4
D3
24V
BLOWER
MOTOR
D6
12V
HEAT
RELAY
AND
RELAY
F2 Ig nit ion
2 AMP Modu le
3 6 9 12
2 5 8 11
1 4 7 10
Blower
Motor
2 Amp
D4
PWR
GND
GND
D5
GV
D7
GND
V1D
PWR
ALR
V1S
AIR
J3
INTERFACE BOARD
LED DIAGNOSTIC LIGHTS
24 VAC to left gas valve (dual vat only)
D1
24 VAC to left ignition module
D2
24 VAC from transformer
D3
24 VAC to right ignition module
D4
24 VAC to gas valve (right valve if dual vat)
D5
12 VAC from transformer
D6
CE and Japanese units only: air switch closed
D7
NOTE:Although the printing on some boards may indicate 2 Amp fuses, 3 Amp fuses (P/N
807-3843) must be used. In full-vat fryers, the relay for the left side (K2) may not be present.
The chart on the following page illustrates current flow through the board, and the table at the top of
page 1-4 identifies frequently used test points.
1-2
J2
12 VAC TO CPTR
GROUND
COMPUTER (12 VAC)
COMPUTERRT HT RELAY
COMPUTER12 VDC TO RELAYS
COMPUTERLT HT RELAY
COMPUTER
NOT USEDNOT USED
COMPUTERLT BL RELAY
**
RT ALARM OUT
COMPUTERSOUND DEVICE
*
LT ALARM OUT
COMPUTER
COMPUTER
COMPUTERJ1 PIN 6
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
J1 PIN 2 & J3 PIN 2
14
15
GROUND
RT BL RELAY
ALR (RIGHT)
AD (LEFT)
J3 PIN 1
J3 PIN 3
J3 PIN 6
INTERFACE BOARD
*
*
* Dual-vat configurations
** Full-vat configurations
J1
NOT USEDNOT USED
NOT USED
TEMP PROBEJ2 PIN 15
BASKET LIFT (DN)LT BL RELAY
NOT USEDNOT USED
MAIN GAS VALVE
via HLS
BASKET LIFT (UP)
NOT USEDNOT USED
NOT USEDNOT USED
MOD 25V GROUNDGROUND
MOD V2D
MOD 25V TERM
DRAIN SWITCH (OPT)
NOT USEDNOT USED
NOT USEDNOT USED
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
GND
V2D
J1 PIN 8 via LT HT RELAY
PWR
AD
AS
V2S
J2 PIN 14TEMP PROBE
NOT USEDNOT USED
NOT USED
NOT USEDNOT USED
LT BL RELAY
J1 PIN 9
J2 PIN 12
V2D
J3
J2 PIN 1
J2 PIN 14TEMP PROBE
J2 PIN 3
NOT USED
NOT USEDNOT USED
J2 PIN 13
RT BL RELAYBASKET LIFT (DN)
PWR via RT HT RELAY
V1S OR V1D
RT BL RELAY
BLOWER via K4 (old)
or K2/K3 (new)
BLOWERXFMR BOX
GROUNDMOD 25V GROUND
J3 PIN 9
J3 PIN 8 via RT HT RELAY
J2 PIN 10
J3 PIN 9
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
GND
V1D
PWR
ALR
V1S
12 VAC XFMR
12 VAC XFMR
TEMP PROBE
MAIN GAS VALVE
BASKET LIFT (UP)
120 VAC IN
MOD 25V TERM
DRAIN SWITCH (OPT)
NOT USED
24 VAC IN
via HLS
MOD V1D *
MOD V1S **
LEFT-VAT
FULL- OR RIGHT- VAT
CURRENT FLOW THROUGH INTERFACE BOARD
106-0386 (PRO SERIES APPLICATION)
1-3
FREQUENTLY USED TEST POINTS FOR INTERFACE BOARD 106-0386
TEST
12VAC Power to Controller 50VAC Scale 1 and 3 on J3 or J2 12-18
24VAC Power to Right Module 50VAC Scale 8 on J3 and GROUND 22-28
120 VAC Power 250VAC Scale 11 on J3 and GROUND 110-125
120 VAC Power to Blowers 250VAC Scale 12 on J3 and GROUND 110-125
24VAC Power to Full or Right vat High-Limit 50VAC Scale 9 on J3 and GROUND 22-28
24VAC Power to Left High-Limit (if present) 50VAC Scale 9 on J1 and GROUND 22-28
Probe Resistance (Full or Right Vat) * R x 1000 OHMS 2 and 6 on J3 or 13 and 14 on J2 **
Probe Resistance (Left - if present) * R x 1000 OHMS 2 and 6 on J1 or 14 and 15 on J2 **
Probe Isolation R x 1000 OHMS 6 on J1 or J3 and GROUND ***
High-Limit Continuity (Full or Right Vat) R x 1 OHM 9 on J3 and Wire 13C on Gas Valve 0
High-Limit Continuity (Left - if present) R x 1 OHM 9 on J1 and Wire 12C on Gas Valve 0
* Disconnect 15-pin harness from controller before testing probe circuit.
** See Probe Resistance Chart at the end of the chapter.
*** 5 mega-Ohms or greater.
METER
SETTING
PINS RESULTS
1.1.3 THERMOSTATS
Pro (H50/55) Series gas fryers have temperature probes located on the front centerline of each
frypot (dual-vat frypots have two probes, one in each vat). In this type of thermostat, the probe
resistance varies directly with the temperature. That is, as the temperature rises, so does resistance,
at a rate of approximately 2 ohms for every 1º F. Circuitry in the controller monitors the probe
resistance and controls burner firing when the resistance exceeds or falls below programmed
temperatures (setpoints). The temperatures are programmed by means of a keypad on the face of the
controller.
Pro (H50/55) Series fryers are also equipped with a high-limit thermostat. In the event that the fryer
fails to properly control the oil temperature, the high-limit thermostat prevents the fryer from
overheating to flash point. The high-limit thermostat acts as a normally closed power switch that
opens when exposed to temperatures above 425ºF to 450ºF (218ºC to 232ºC). The different types of
thermostats have different part numbers for CE and non-CE models and are not interchangeable.
1.2 Accessing Fryers for Servicing
DANGER
Moving a fryer filled with cooking oil may cause spilling or splattering of the hot
liquid. Follow the draining instructions in Chapter 4 of the Installation and Operation
manual (P/N 819-5991) before relocating a fryer for servicing.
1. Shut off the gas supply to the unit. Unplug the power cords. Disconnect the unit from the gas
supply.
2. Remove any attached restraining devices and relocate the fryer for service accessibility.
1-4
3. After servicing is complete, reconnect the unit to the gas supply, reattach restraining devices, and
plug in the electrical cords.
1.3 Cleaning the Gas Valve Vent Tube
1. Set the fryer power switch and the gas valve to the OFF position.
2. Carefully unscrew the vent tube from the gas valve. NOTE: The vent tube may be straightened
for ease of removal.
3. Pass a piece of binding wire (.052 inch diameter) through the tube to remove any obstruction.
4. Remove the wire and blow through the tube to ensure it is clear.
5. Reinstall the tube and bend it so that the opening is pointing down.
1.4 Checking the Burner Manifold Gas Pressure
1. On non-CE fryers only, ensure that the gas valve knob is in the OFF position.
Honeywell
ON
OFF
2. Remove the pressure tap plug from the gas valve assembly.
Pressure Tap Plug
Typical Non-CE
Valve Assembly
Typical CE Valve
Assembly
3. Attach a manometer or pressure gauge to the pressure tap hole.
1-5
4. On non-CE fryers only, place the gas valve in the ON position.
5. Place the fryer power switch in the ON position. When the burner has lit and burned steadily for
at least one minute, compare the gas pressure reading to the pressure for the corresponding gas in
the appropriate table below. The tables list the burner manifold gas pressures for each of the gas
types that can be used with this equipment.
CE Standard
Burner Manifold Gas Pressures
Pressure (mbar)
Single
Gas
Natural Gas Lacq
(G20) under 20 mbar
Natural Gas Gronique *
(G25) under 25 mbar
Natural Gas Gronique
(G25) under 20 mbar
Butane/Propane
(G30) at 28/30 or 50 mbar
Propane
(G31) under 37 or 50 mbar
* Belgian G25 = 7,0 mbar (single or dual)
Vat
77
1010
1010
1717
2020
Non-CE Standard
Burner Manifold Gas Pressures
GasPre ss ure
Natural
Propane
3" W.C.
0.73 kPa
8.25" W.C.
2.5 kPa
Dual
Vat
6. To adjust the burner gas pressure, remove the cap from the gas valve regulator and adjust it to
the correct pressure.
Non-CE
Valve
GAS VALVE REGULATOR CAP
CE
Valve
1-6
7. Place the fryer power switch (and the gas valve in non-CE fryers) in the OFF position. Remove
(Rig
)
the fitting from the pressure tap hole and reinstall the pressure tap plug.
1.5 Measuring Flame Current
When the burner flame is properly adjusted, it will produce a current between 2.5 !A and 3.5 !A.
Flame current is measured by placing a microamp (not milliamp) meter in series with the sensing
wire on the ignitor.
1. Place the fryer power switch in the OFF position.
2. Disconnect the sensing wire from one of the burner ignitors and connect it to the positive lead of
the meter. Connect the negative lead of the meter to the terminal from which the sensing wire
was removed.
Flame Sensor Wire
ht Burner
3. Place the fryer power switch in the ON position to light the burners. After the frypot
temperature reaches 200"F (93"C), wait at least one minute before checking the reading. NOTE:
The closer the unit is to normal operating temperature, the more accurate the reading will be.
1.6 Replacing Fryer Components
1.6.1 Replacing the Controller or the Controller Wiring Harness
1. Unplug all electrical power cords.
2. Lift up on the bezel to disengage the tabs on its lower edge from the control panel frame. Slide
the bezel down to disengage the upper tabs. Remove the top two screws. Swing the controller
out from the top and allow it to rest on its hinge tabs.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the controller and, if replacing the harness,
disconnect it from the interface board.
4. Disconnect the ground wire from the controller. Remove the controller by lifting it from the
hinge slots in the control panel frame.
5. Reverse the procedure to install a new controller or wiring harness. NOTE: Ensure that the
ferrite bead (black ring) in the harness is at the controller end.
1-7
1.6.2 Replacing the Temperature Probe or High-Limit Thermostat
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical supply.
2. Drain cooking oil below the level of the probe or thermostat.
3. Lift up on the bezel to disengage the tabs on its lower edge from the control panel frame. Slide
the bezel down to disengage the upper tabs. Remove the top two screws. Swing the controller out
from the top and allow it to rest on its hinge tabs.
4. Disconnect the controller wiring harness and ground wire from the back of the controller and
remove the controller by lifting it from the hinge slots in the control panel frame.
5. If the fryer has a built-in filtration system, remove the cotter pin securing the oil return handle to
the oil return operating rod and separate the rod from the handle.
6. Disconnect the ignition cables from the ignitors by grasping the boots and gently pulling toward
you.
7. Disconnect the flame sensor wires from the flame sensors.
8. Disconnect the sound device lead from the interface board.
9. If working on the left frypot, cut the wire tie on the wiring bundle and disconnect the main
wiring harness 15-pin connector.
10. Remove the component box mounting screws.
11. Rotate the top of the component box out of the frame and carefully pull it out enough to
disconnect the wiring harness plug from the back of the box. If the unit is equipped with built-in
filtration, disconnect the wires from the filter switch. This will leave one set of wires, enclosed
in spiral wrap, connected to the component box.
12. Remove the box and place it on top of the fryer to expose the temperature probe and high-limit
thermostat.
13. Cut the leads of the probe or thermostat, as appropriate, near the component and unscrew it from
the frypot.
14. Unscrew and remove the temperature probe (or high-limit thermostat) from the frypot.
15. Apply Loctite® PST56765 pipe thread sealant or equivalent to the replacement part threads and
screw the replacement part into the frypot, torquing to 180 inch-pounds.
16. Connect the wires from the new component as follows:
a. If replacing the temperature probe, use a pin pusher to disconnect (one at a time) the red and
white leads from the connector and insert the corresponding leads from the new probe.
1-8
b. If replacing the high-limit thermostat, use a pin pusher to disconnect the lead running to the
connector and insert the corresponding lead from the new thermostat. Disconnect the other
lead from the drain safety switch and connect the remaining lead from the new thermostat.
17. Reverse steps 1-12 to reassemble the fryer.
1.6.3 Replacing the Interface Board
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply.
2. Lift up on the bezel to disengage the tabs on its lower edge from the control panel frame. Slide
the bezel down to disengage the upper tabs. Remove the top two screws. Swing the controller out
from the top and allow it to rest on its hinge tabs.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the controller and from the interface board, and
disconnect the ground wire from the controller.
4. Remove the controller by lifting it from the hinge slots in the control panel frame.
5. Disconnect the wires attached to the interface board, marking or making a note of the wires and
terminals to facilitate reconnection.
6. Remove the nuts at each corner of the interface board and carefully pull it from the studs far
enough to allow the connector on the back of the board to be disconnected, then remove the
board from the box. When removing the board, be careful not to lose the spacers that fit over the
studs behind the board.
7. Recover the relay(s) from the failed interface board and install on the replacement board.
8. Reverse the procedure to install the replacement board, being sure that the spacers behind the
board are in place.
1.6.4 Replacing an Ignition Module
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical supply.
2. Lift up on the bezel to disengage the tabs on its lower edge from the control panel frame. Slide
the bezel down to disengage the upper tabs. Remove the top two screws. Swing the controller out
from the top and allow it to rest on its hinge tabs.
3. Disconnect the wires from the ignition module, marking or making a note of the wires and
terminals to facilitate reconnection.
4. Remove the four ignition module screws and pull the module from the component box.
5. Move the spacers to the new module.
6. Reverse the procedure to install the replacement module.
1-9
1.6.5 Replacing an Ignitor Assembly
DANGER
Drain the frypot or remove the handle from the drain valve before proceeding further.
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical supply.
2. Disconnect the flame sensor wire by carefully pulling its push-on terminal from the terminal
strip on the ignitor. Disconnect the gas enrichment tube at the ignitor-end compression fitting.
Disconnect the ignition cable from the ignitor by grasping its boot and gently pulling toward
you.
Flame Sensor Wire
Gas Enrichment Tube
Ignition Cable
3. Remove the sheet metal screws securing the ignitor to the mounting plate and pull the ignitor
from the fryer.
4. Reverse the procedure to install the replacement ignitor.
1.6.6 Replacing or Cleaning a Combustion Air Blower
1. Disconnect the blower wiring harness, remove the blower assembly mounting nuts, and remove
the blower assembly from the fryer. If cleaning the motor, continue with Step 2; otherwise,
install the replacement blower, reconnect the wiring harness, and then go to Step 6.
Wiring connection Blower assembly
mounting nuts
1-10
2. Remove the blower motor shield and separate the blower motor from the housing as shown in
the illustration on the following page.
Remove these screws to
remove the shield from the
blower assembly.
Remove these nuts to
separate the blower
motor from the housing.
3. Wrap the motor with plastic wrap to prevent water from entering it. Spray degreaser or
detergent on the blower wheel and the blower housing. Allow it to soak for five minutes. Rinse
the wheel and housing with hot tap water, then dry with a clean cloth.
Wrap the motor and wires with
plastic wrap or a plastic bag.
Blower Housing
Blower Wheel
4. Remove the plastic wrap from the blower motor assembly. Reassemble the blower motor
assembly and blower housing. Reinstall the blower shield.
5. Reinstall the blower assembly in the fryer and reconnect the wiring disconnected in Step 1.
1-11
6. Light the fryer in accordance with the procedure described in Chapter 3, Section 3.2 of the Pro
H55-Series Gas Fryer Installation and Operation Manual (P/N 819-5991).
7. After the burners have been lit for at least 90 seconds, observe the flames through the burner
sight glasses located on each side of the combustion air blower.
Left Viewing
Port is behind
motor.
Right
Viewing
Port.
The air/gas mixture is properly adjusted when the burner manifold pressure is in accordance with
the applicable table on page 1-6 and the burners display a bright red-orange glow. If a blue
flame is observed or if there are dark spots on the burner face, the air/gas mixture requires
adjustment.
Adjusting the Air/Gas Mixture
On the side of the blower housing opposite the motor is a shutter plate with a locking nut.
Loosen the nut enough to allow the shutter to be moved, then adjust the position of the shutter to
open or close the air intake opening until a bright red-orange glow is obtained. Carefully hold
the shutter in position and tighten the locking nut.
1-12
Loosen this nut and
rotate shutter to open
or close air intake.
1.6.7 Replacing a Gas Valve
DANGER
Drain the frypot or remove the handle from the drain valve before proceeding further.
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical and gas supplies.
2. Disconnect the drain safety and high-limit thermostat wires from the gas valve. Mark each wire
to facilitate reconnection.
3. Remove the vent tube (on non-CE fryers) and the enrichment tube fitting from the valve.
Disconnect the flexible gas line(s).
If replacing the left-most valve on any configuration, or the right valve on a two-fryer battery,
follow the instructions below. If replacing valves in other positions, skip to “ALL OTHERVALVES.”
A. Remove the filter pan from the unit. Remove the door adjacent to the valve being replaced.
B. Remove the five screws on the front face of the pan rail assembly adjacent to the valve being
replaced. Remove the nut and bolt securing the rear end of the rail to the cabinet.
C. Remove the two nuts and bolts immediately behind the front face of the pan rail assembly. Pull
the assembly from the unit to gain access to the pipe union on the gas line.
D. Uncouple the pipe union and remove the gas valve and associated piping from the unit.
E. Remove the fittings and associated piping from the failed valve and install them on the
replacement valve using Loctite® PST56765 or equivalent pipe thread sealant.
F. Reconnect the gas valve assembly to the fryer using Loctite® PST56765 or equivalent pipe
thread sealant, and reattach the flexible gas line(s), enrichment tube(s), and the vent tube (on
non-CE units). Reconnect the high-limit thermostat wires and drain safety wires to the valve.
G. Reconnect the fryer to the gas supply and open the cut off valve. Apply a solution of soapy
water around each connection to check for gas leaks. Eliminate any that are found.
H. Position the pan rail assembly beneath the fryer and rest the rear end of the rail on the cabinet
frame. Install the two nuts and bolts behind the front face of the rail, but do not tighten them.
Install the nut and bolt at the rear end of the filter rail and tighten securely.
I.Install the five screws in the front face of the rail, but do not tighten them. Install the filter pan
in the unit to make sure that all components are properly aligned; then, securely tighten the
remaining bolts and screws.
J. Reconnect the fryer to the electrical power supply and check for proper operation. When proper
operation has been verified, reinstall the door removed in Step A.
1-13
ALL OTHER VALVES
4. Carefully unscrew the valve from the manifold. NOTE: Some models may have the valve
attached to the manifold by means of a pipe union. In such cases, remove the valve by
uncoupling the union.
5. Remove all fittings from the old gas valve and install them on the replacement valve, using
Loctite® PST56765 or equivalent pipe thread sealant.
6. Reconnect the gas valve assembly to the fryer using Loctite® PST56765 or equivalent pipe
thread sealant, and reattach the flexible gas line(s), enrichment tube(s), and the vent tube (on
non-CE units). Reconnect the high-limit thermostat wires and drain safety wires to the valve.
7. Reconnect the fryer to the gas supply and open the cut off valve. Apply a solution of soapy
water around each connection to check for gas leaks. Eliminate any that are found.
8. Reconnect the fryer to the electrical power supply and check for proper operation.
1.6.8 Replacing a Burner Assembly
DANGER
Drain the frypot or remove the handle from the drain valve before proceeding further.
1. Disconnect the unit from the electrical and gas supplies.
2. Remove the combustion air blower by following the instructions in Section 1.6.6.
3. Remove the four nuts from the air plenum assembly and pull the assembly straight out toward
you until it clears the burner tubes.
NOTE: On a dual-vat fryer, it will be necessary to remove the drain valve handles before the
plenum can be removed.
NOTE: If the flexible oil return lines are blocking the plenum, carefully bend them upward
enough to clear the plenum.
4. Disconnect the ignition cable from the ignitor by grasping its boot and pulling gently toward
you. Disconnect the flame sensor wire from the ignitor by gently pulling its push-on terminal
from the terminal strip on the ignitor.
5. Disconnect the flexible gas lines from the burner orifice and the enrichment tube from the ignitor
assembly.
6. Remove the four ¼-inch nuts securing the outer front covers to the frypot assembly.
7. Remove the sheet metal screws at the top of the outer front covers and pull the covers straight
out toward you until clear of the mounting studs.
1-14
8. Remove the washers and tubular spacers from the mounting studs, then pull the inner covers
straight out toward you until clear of the mounting studs.
9. Grasp the burner firmly and pull it toward you until it clears the burner channels, taking care not
to damage the ceramic tiles in the process.
10. Clean all debris from the burner channels and combustion area.
11. Inspect the upper and lower burner rails for cracked or burned out welds.
a. If the welds in the lower rail are cracked or burned out, the frypot must be replaced. Refer to
Section 1.6.10 for instructions.
b. If the welds in the upper rail are cracked or burned out, the upper rail must be replaced.
Refer to Section 1.6.11 for instructions.
12. Place a new insulating strip along the top, rear, and bottom edge of the burner and carefully slide
it straight into the rails. NOTE: Use P/N 826-0931 for full-vat frypots and P/N 826-0932 for
dual-vat frypots.
13. Reverse steps 1 through 9 to reassemble the components.
14. Fill the frypot with oil. Turn the fryer on, turn off or bypass the melt cycle, and operate the unit
for at least 10 minutes.
15. Visually examine the burner flame. The color and intensity on both sides should be the same.
16. Use an inspection mirror to check for leaks in areas that cannot be directly observed.
17. If a leak is detected, tighten all the lower insulation retainer nuts, allow the frypot to run for five
additional minutes, and repeat steps 15 and 16.
18. If the leak persists, use a rubber hammer and a small block of wood to tap the corners of the
lower combustion chamber insulation retainers. Repeat steps 15 through 17. Repeat this step
until no leakage is detected.
1.6.9 Replacing the Filter Motor, Filter Pump, or Filter Pump Solenoid Valve
1. Disconnect the unit from the electrical power supply.
2. Remove the filter pan from the unit and drain the frypots into a Shortening Disposal Unit (SDU)
or other appropriate metal container.
DANGER
DO NOT attempt to drain more than one full frypot or two split frypots into the SDU
at one time.
1-15
3. Position a container beneath the oil return fitting at the front of the cabinet. Disconnect the
flexible oil line from the fitting, allowing any residual oil to drain into the container.
4. At the rear of the fryer, unplug the left connector (as viewed from the rear of the fryer) from the
transformer box. Using a pin pusher, push the pump solenoid valve wires from Pins 7 and 9.
5. Remove the four nuts and bolts attaching the motor mount to the rear motor mount support.
6. At the front of the fryer, remove the cover plate from the front of the motor and disconnect the
motor wires.
7. Place a 1-foot (30.5-cm) length of wood (or similar support) beneath the motor mount near the
front of the unit and remove the two remaining nuts and bolts attaching the motor mount to the
front cabinet cross-brace.
8. Carefully remove the support and lower the motor mount to the floor, allowing the rear of the
mount to slide forward and off the rear motor mount support.
9. Disconnect the Power Shower flexline (if applicable) or the oil return flexline from the pump.
The motor and pump assembly can now be pulled from beneath the fryer and the failed
component can be removed and replaced.
10. Position the new/repaired motor and pump assembly beneath the fryer and reconnect the Power
Shower flexline (if applicable) or the oil return flexline to the pump. Lift the rear of the motor
mount up and onto the rear motor mount support.
11. Lift the front of the motor mount up and support it with a 1-foot (30.5-cm) piece of wood or a
similar support. Install but do not tighten the two nuts and bolts that attach the motor mount to
the front cabinet cross-brace.
12. Install and tighten the four nuts and bolts that secure the motor mount to the rear motor mount
support. Reconnect the solenoid valve wires to Pins 7 and 9 of the 9-pin connector (polarity
does not matter) and reconnect the plug.
13. At the front of the fryer, tighten the two nuts and bolts at the front of the motor mount.
Reconnect the motor power wires and reinstall the wiring cover plate.
14. Reconnect the oil return flexline and reinstall the filter pan.
15. Reconnect the unit to the electrical power supply, fill the frypots with oil, and check for proper
operation.
1.6.10 Replacing the Frypot
1. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical and gas supplies.
2. Remove the filter pan from the unit and drain the frypots into a Shortening Disposal Unit (SDU)
or other appropriate metal container.
1-16
DANGER
DO NOT attempt to drain more than one full frypot or two split frypots into the SDU
at one time.
3. Dismount the topcap by removing the screws on the bottom of each front corner and lifting the
topcap straight up.
4. Remove the bezels by lifting them up to disengage the tabs along the lower edges from the slots
in the control panel frame.
5. Grasp the upper edge of each controller and swing the controller downward. Unplug the
controller wiring harness and grounding wire from the back of each controller.
6. Remove the controllers by lifting them from the hinge slots in the control panel frame.
7. Remove the cotter pin that secures the oil return rod to the oil return handle and separate the rod
and handle. NOTE: On split-vat units, there are two oil return handles.
8. Disconnect the sound device wire from the interface board and disconnect the oil return switch
wires from the switch terminals.
9. Disconnect the flame sensor wires by carefully pulling the push-on terminals from the terminal
strips on the ignitors. Disconnect the gas enrichment tube at the ignitor-end compression fitting.
Disconnect the ignition cables from the ignitors by grasping the boots and gently pulling toward
you.
10. Remove the two mounting screws on each side of the component box and rotate the top of the
box out of the frame. Carefully pull it out enough to disconnect the wiring harness connector
from the back of the box. Cut any ties that prevent the box from being pulled out of the control
panel frame.
11. Carefully pull the box clear of the frame and rest it on the top of the fryer.
12. Using a pin pusher, remove the temperature probe and high-limit thermostat wires from the plugs
or terminals, marking each wire to facilitate re-assembly.
13. Remove the cover from the safety drain switch. Disconnect the wires from the switch.
14. Remove the section(s) of drain from the drain valve(s) of the frypot to be removed.
15. Disconnect the gas lines from the burner orifices and ignitor assemblies.
16. Remove the frypot hold down bracket.
17. Remove the screws in the back panel and inside the flue cap at each end that secure the flue cap
to the fryer and lift it clear of the fryer.
18. Disconnect the oil return line(s) from the frypot to be removed.
19. Carefully lift the frypot from the fryer cabinet.
1-17
20. Remove the drain valve(s), temperature probe(s), high-limit thermostat(s), and ignitor
assemblies. Inspect each of these components carefully and install them in the replacement
frypot if they are in serviceable condition. Use Loctite® PST56765 sealant or equivalent on
component threads.
NOTE: Some servicers, based upon their experience, recommend replacing probes and
thermostats whenever a frypot is replaced; however, this remains the customer’s decision.
21. Reverse steps 1-19 to reassemble fryer.
NOTE: Care should be taken not to over-torque nuts on frypots made of 439 stainless steel, as
this could tear the material. One turn past hand-tight is sufficient torque.
22. Perform steps 14 through 18 of Section 1.6.8 to ensure that there are no leaks in the burner
insulation.
CAUTION
Before installing temperature probe, high-limit thermostat, and drain valve on replacement
frypot, clean the threads and apply Loctite® PST56765 thread sealant or equivalent.
NOTE: Replacing the burner rails requires completely tearing down the frypot and installing new
frypot insulation. See the referenced illustrations for component identification.
To remove the old insulation and/or upper burner rails (use illustration on page 1-20):
1. Remove the frypot according to the instructions in Section 1.6.10.
2. Remove the burner assemblies (1).
3. Remove insulation retainers and blanket insulation (2).
4. Remove the upper oil zone insulation bracket and upper oil zone insulation (3).
5. Remove the plenum (4).
6. Remove the front lower combustion chamber insulation retainer and insulation (5), and the front
lower combustion chamber inner insulation retainer and insulation (6). NOTE: Full-vat units have
two-piece insulation retainer and insulation components. Dual-vat units have one-piece components.
7. Remove the upper combustion chamber insulation retainer and insulation (7).
8. Remove the inner upper combustion chamber insulation retainer and insulation (8).
9. Remove the rear lower combustion chamber retainers, back, and insulation (9). NOTE: Full-vat
units have two-piece backs and four retainers. Dual-vat units have one-piece backs and two
retainers.
10. Remove the flue assembly (10).
11. Remove the upper burner rails (11).
12. Remove any residual insulation, sealant, and/or oil from the exterior of the frypot.
1-18
9
10
Spacer
11
8
3
1
7
(Full-vat Illustrated)
Disassembling A Frypot
6
2
5
Spacers
4
1-19
To re-assemble with new insulation and/or upper burner rails (use illustration on page 1-23):
13. Place the “L” shaped pieces of combustion chamber insulation (1) in the front and rear corners of
both upper rail-retaining slots.
14. Use a small amount of furnace or muffler repair cement to seal the gaps at each end of both
lower rails.
15. Install the upper burner rails (2) with the heat deflectors slanting toward the rear of the frypot.
The rails will cover the “L” shaped pieces of combustion chamber insulation previously
installed.
16. Place the upper inner combustion chamber insulation and insulation retainers (3) on the top two
studs on each side of the front of the frypot and secure with ¼”-20 washer-nuts. It is normal for
the retainers to slice off the overhanging insulation.
17. Place the lower rear combustion chamber insulation (4) on the lower four studs at the rear of the
frypot.
18. Place one 1.625-inch tubular spacer (5) on each of the flue assembly (upper) studs at the rear of
the frypot. NOTE: There are three different sizes of spacers. Verify the size to ensure the
correct spacers are installed.
19. Press the flue assembly (6) over the burner rails. It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet or
screwdriver to align the components. Use four ¼”-20 washer nuts to secure the flue assembly.
Do not tighten the retainer nuts at this point. They should be finger-tight only. NOTE:
The flue edge will cover one to two inches of the lower insulation.
20. Install the lower rear combustion chamber back(s) and retainer(s) (7) with the flanged edge(s)
against the flue. Secure with ¼”-20 washer nuts. NOTE: Full-vat units have two-piece backs
and four retainers. Dual-vat units come with one-piece backs and only two retainers.
21. Insert the burners (9) into the rails to ensure the rail spacing and alignment are correct. The
burner should slide freely into and out of the rails. The upper rail can be bent slightly to increase
or decrease tension on the burner and the edges of the slot can be closed or opened slightly to
best fit the burner frame.
22. Carefully wrap a strip of burner insulation (8) tightly around the rear and sides of the burner
frame (9), with the glass-tape side of the strip on the outside. Do not use duct tape or adhesive
to secure the strip to the burner frame.
23. Align the burner to the burner rails while maintaining tension on the insulation strip. Insert the
burner at a slight angle and begin pushing the burner slowly into the rails until it contacts the
rear combustion chamber. The fit should be snug, but not excessively tight.
24. Verify that the burners are flush with the front edge of the burner rails. Remove the excess
burner insulation by cutting with a knife or diagonal pliers. Do not try to tear the insulation!
1-20
25. Insert the upper front insulation (10) into its retainer (11), making sure that the holes in each
piece are aligned with one another. Install the assembly with the insulation side toward the
frypot and secure with ¼”-20 washer-nuts. Do not over tighten.
26. Place a washer on each of the four lower studs on the front of the frypot. Install the lower inner
front insulation (12) with the rectangular openings toward the drain valve nipple. Install the
lower inner front insulation retainer(s) (13). NOTE: Full-vat units have a two-piece insulation
retainer. Dual-vat units have a one-piece retainer.
27. If necessary, replace the sight-glasses and insulation (14).
28. Place one washer and one 1.888-inch spacer (15) on each stud. NOTE: There are three different
sizes of spacers. Verify the size to ensure the correct spacers are installed.
29. Insert the front lower insulation (16) into the front lower insulation retainer(s) (17) and install
assembly on frypot. Secure with ¼”-20 washer-nuts. If frypot uses two retainers, connect them
together with two ¼” self-tapping screws. NOTE: Full-vat units have a two-piece insulation
retainer and two pieces of insulation. Dual-vat units have one-piece components.
30. Return to the rear of the frypot and fully tighten all washer-nuts.
31. Remove and replace the plenum gaskets (18).
32. Place a 0.938-inch spacer (19) on the plenum-mounting studs, and mount the plenum (20).
Ensure the gaskets are clear of the burner tubes by pulling the plenum back slightly. Place a
washer on each stud and secure plenum with ¼”-20 lock-nuts.
33. Install the upper oil-zone insulation (21) by pressing it under the upper combustion chamber
metalwork. Secure the insulation with the bracket (22) and ¼” self-tapping screws.
34. Install the upper burner rail blanket insulation (23). Position any excess insulation toward the
top of the frypot. Avoid overhang past the bottom of the upper burner rail. Overhang in this
area will make future burner replacement more difficult.
35. Cover the insulation with the insulation retainer (24), and secure with ¼” self-tapping screws.
36. Reinstall probes, drain valves, high-limit thermostats, and other pipefittings using Loctite
®
PST56765 sealant or equivalent on the threads.
1-21
7
8
2
6
5
4
1
22
21
9
1
3
10
11
23
24
15
16
17
12
13
14
19
20
(Full-vat Illustrated)
Re-assembling A Frypot
18
1-22
1.7 Troubleshooting and Problem Isolation
Because it is not feasible to attempt to include in this manual every conceivable problem or trouble
condition that might be encountered, this section is intended to provide technicians with a general
knowledge of the broad problem categories associated with this equipment, and the probable causes
of each. With this knowledge, the technician should be able to isolate and correct any problem
encountered.
Problems you are likely to encounter can be grouped into seven categories:
1. Ignition failure
2. Improper burner function
3. Improper temperature control
4. Computer malfunctions
5. Filtration malfunctions
6. Leakage
7. Basket lift malfunctions.
The probable causes of each category are discussed in the following sections. A series of
Troubleshooting Guides is also included at the end of the chapter to assist in solving some of the
more common problems, including the interpretation of digital controller lights.
1.7.1 Ignition Failure
Ignition failure occurs when the ignition module fails to sense a flame within the 4-second time
delay period and locks out. When this happens, the module sends 24 VAC through the interface
board alarm circuit to the controller/computer.
Analog controllers indicate ignition failure by illuminating the heat light and trouble light
simultaneously. Digital, Computer Magic III.5, and Basket Lift Timer controls display “
HELp
.”
The three primary reasons for ignition failure, listed in order of probability, are problems related to:
1. Gas and/or electrical power supplies
2. Electronic circuits
3. Gas valve.
PROBLEMS RELATED TO THE GAS AND/OR ELECTRICAL POWER SUPPLIES
The main indicators of this are that an entire battery of fryers fails to light and/or there are no
indicator lights illuminated on the fryer experiencing ignition failure. Verify that the quick
disconnect fitting is properly connected, the fryer is plugged in, the main gas supply valve is open,
and the circuit breaker for the fryer electrical supply is not tripped.
PROBLEMS RELATED TO THE ELECTRONIC CIRCUITS
If gas and electrical power are being supplied to the fryer, the next most likely cause of ignition
failure is a problem in the 24 VAC circuit. Verify that the drain valve is fully closed. The valve is
attached to a microswitch that must be closed for power to reach the gas valve (often, although the
1-23
valve handle appears to be in the closed position, the microswitch is still open). If the valve is fully
closed, refer to the troubleshooting guide, TROUBLESHOOTING THE 24 VAC CIRCUIT.
Some typical causes of ignition failure in this category include a defective sensing wire in the ignitor
assembly, a defective module, a defective ignition wire, and a defective ignitor.
Occasionally you may encounter an ignition failure situation in which all components appear to be
serviceable and the microamp reading is within specification, but the unit nevertheless goes into
ignition failure during operation. The probable cause in this case is an intermittent failure of an
ignition module. When the unit is opened up for troubleshooting, the module cools down enough to
operate correctly; however, when the unit is again closed up and placed back into service the module
heats up and fails.
PROBLEMS RELATED TO THE GAS VALVE
If the problem is not in the 24 VAC circuit, it is most likely in the gas valve. Before replacing the
gas valve, refer to TROUBLESHOOTING THE GAS VALVE.
1.7.2 Improper Burner Function
With problems in this category, the burner ignites but exhibits abnormal characteristics such as
“popping,” dark spots on the burner ceramics, fluctuating flame intensity, and flames shooting out of
the flue.
“Popping” indicates delayed ignition. In this condition, the main gas valve is opening but the burner
is not immediately lighting. When ignition does take place, the excess gas “explodes” into flame,
rather than smoothly igniting.
The primary causes of popping are:
#Incorrect or fluctuating gas pressure
#Defective or incorrectly adjusted combustion air blower
#Inadequate make-up air
#Heat-damaged controller or ignition module
#Cracked ignitor or broken ignition wire
#Defective ignition module
#Cracked burner tile (typically causes a very loud pop).
If popping occurs only during peak operating hours, the problem may be incorrect or fluctuating gas
pressure. Verify that the incoming gas pressure (pressure to the gas valve) is in accordance with the
appropriate CE or non-CE Standard found in Section 2.3 of the Pro H55-Series Gas Fryer
Installation and Operation Manual (part number 819-5991), and that the pressure remains constant
throughout all hours of usage. Refer to Section 1.4, Checking the Burner Manifold Gas Pressure
in this manual for the procedure for checking the pressure of gas supplied to the burner.
If popping is consistent during all hours of operation, the most likely cause is an insufficient air
supply. Check for “negative pressure” conditions in the kitchen area. If air is flowing into the
kitchen area, this indicates that more air is being exhausted than is being replenished and the burners
may be starved for air.
1-24
If the fryer’s gas and air supplies are okay, the problem is most likely with one of the electrical
components. Examine the ignition module and controller for signs of melting, distortion, and/or
discoloration due to excessive heat build-up in the fryer (this condition usually indicates improper
flue performance). A melted or distorted ignition module is automatically suspect and should be
replaced; however, unless the condition causing excessive heat is corrected, the problem is likely to
recur.
Verify that the ignition wire is tightly connected at both ends and free of obvious signs of damage.
Again, if damage is due to excessive heat in the fryer, that problem must also be corrected. Check
for proper operation by disconnecting the wire from the ignitor (spark plug), inserting the tip of a
screw driver into the terminal, and holding the shaft near the frame of the fryer as the power switch
is placed in the ON position. A strong, blue spark should be generated for at least 4 seconds.
DANGER
Make sure you are holding the insulated handle of the screwdriver and not the blade.
The sparking charge is approximately 25,000 volts.
Examine the ignitor (spark plug) for any signs of cracking. A cracked ignitor must be replaced.
If all other causes have been ruled out, examine the burner tiles for any signs of cracking. If
cracking is found, the burner must be replaced.
Fluctuating flame intensity is normally caused by either improper or fluctuating incoming gas
pressure, but may also be the result of variations in the kitchen atmosphere. Verify incoming gas
pressure in the same way as for “popping,” discussed in the preceding paragraphs. Variations in the
kitchen atmosphere are usually caused by air conditioning and/or ventilation units starting and
stopping during the day. As they start and stop, the pressure in the kitchen may change from
positive or neutral to negative, or vice versa. They may also cause changes in airflow patterns that
may affect flame intensity.
Dark spots on the burner tiles are the result of an improper air/gas mixture. Adjust the combustion
air blower to reduce the amount of air in the mixture to correct this problem
Flames shooting out of the flue are usually an indication of negative pressure in the kitchen. Air is
being sucked out of the burner enclosure and the flames are literally following the air. If negative
pressure is not the cause, check for high burner manifold gas pressure in accordance with the
procedures in Section 1.4.
An excessively noisy burner, especially with flames visible above the flue opening, may indicate
that the gas pressure is too high or that the gas valve vent tube is blocked. If the incoming gas
pressure is correct and the vent tube is unobstructed, the gas valve regulator is probably defective.
Occasionally a burner may apparently be operating correctly, but nevertheless the fryer has a slowrecovery rate (the length of time required for the fryer to increase the oil temperature from 250ºF to
300ºF (121ºC to 149ºC)). The primary causes of this include an over-filled frypot, a dirty or
out-of-adjustment combustion air blower, low burner manifold pressure, and/or damaged burner
tiles. Adding oil to the frypot during the recovery process will also cause a slow recovery rate.
1-25
Loading...
+ 70 hidden pages
You need points to download manuals.
1 point = 1 manual.
You can buy points or you can get point for every manual you upload.