Elenco Snap Circuits SOUND reg User Manual

Copyright © by Elenco®Electronics, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced by 753120 any means; electronic, photocopying, or otherwise without written permission from the publisher.
Patents: 7,144,255; 7,273,377; & other patents pending
Project 47
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Most circuit problems are due to incorrect assembly, always double-check that your circuit exactly matches the drawing for it.
2. Be sure that parts with positive/negative markings are positioned as per the drawing.
3. Be sure that all connections are securely snapped.
4. Try replacing the batteries.
5. If the flexible sheet in the sound energy demo container is damaged, replace it with a spare (if one was included), or use household plastic wrap.
6. If the echo IC (U28) stops working, turn the circuit off and on to reset it.
ELENCO®is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
Basic Troubleshooting
Note: If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow the
Advanced Troubleshooting procedure on pages 16 and 17 to determine which ones need replacing.
Basic Troubleshooting 1 Parts List 2, 3 How to Use Snap Circuits® 4 About Your Snap Circuits®SOUND Parts 5-7 Introduction to Electricity 8 Sound in Our World 9-14
DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits 15 Advanced Troubleshooting 16, 17 Project Listings 18, 19 Projects 1 - 188 20-85 Other Snap Circuits®Projects 86
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Never connect Snap
Circuits
®
to the electrical outlets in your home in any way!
Table of Contents
WARNING: Always check your wiring
before turning on a circuit. Never leave a circuit unattended while the batteries are installed. Never connect additional batteries or any other power sources to your circuits. Discard any cracked or broken parts.
Adult Supervision: Because children’s
abilities vary so much, even with age groups, adults should exercise discretion as to which experiments are suitable and safe (the instructions should enable supervising adults to establish the experiment’s suitability for
the child). Make sure your child reads and follows all of the relevant instructions and safety procedures, and keeps them at hand for reference.
This product is intended for use by adults and children who have attained sufficient maturity to read and follow directions and warnings.
Never modify your parts, as doing so may disable important safety features in them, and could put your child at risk of injury.
WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD -
Small parts. Not for children under 3 years.
!
Conforms to all applicable
U.S. government
requirements.
• Use only 1.5V “AA” type, alkaline batteries (not included).
• Insert batteries with correct polarity.
Non-rechargeable batteries should not be recharged. Rechargeable batteries should only be charged under adult supervision, and should not be recharged while in the product.
• Do not mix old and new batteries.
• Do not connect batteries or battery holders in parallel.
• Do not mix alkaline, standard (carbon­zinc), or rechargeable (nickel-cadmium) batteries.
• Remove batteries when they are used up.
• Do not short circuit the battery terminals.
• Never throw batteries in a fire or attempt to open its outer casing.
• Batteries are harmful if swallowed, so keep away from small children.
Batteries:
!
WARNING: Some projects are intended for use with
headphones (not included in this set). Headphones performance varies, so you should use caution. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes. Start with as low a volume as possible, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Ringing or discomfort in the ears may indicate that the sound levels are too high; immediately discontinue using the headphones with this product and consult a physician.
!
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Important: If any parts are missing or damaged, DO NOT RETURN TO RETAILER. Call toll-free (800) 533-2441 or e-mail us at:
help@elenco.com. Customer Service • 150 Carpenter Ave. • Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.
Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers (page 1)
Qty. ID Name Symbol Part # Qty. ID Name Symbol Part #
r 1
Base Grid (11.0” x 7.7”)
6SCBG
r 1
0.1mF Capacitor 6SCC2
r 3
1-Snap Wire 6SC01
r 1
470mF Capacitor 6SCC5
r 7
2-Snap Wire 6SC02
r 1
1mF Capacitor 6SCC7
r 3
3-Snap Wire 6SC03
r 1
Color Light Emitting Diode (LED)
6SCD8
r 1
4-Snap Wire 6SC04
r 1
Egg LED Attachment 6SCEGG
r 1
5-Snap Wire 6SC05
r 1
Jumper Wire (black) 6SCJ1
r 1
6-Snap Wire 6SC06
r 1
Jumper Wire (red) 6SCJ2
r 2
Battery Holder - uses two (2) 1.5V type “AA” (not included)
6SCB1
r 1
Audio Jack 6SCJA
You may order additional / replacement parts at our website: www.snapcircuits.net
5
4
3
2
1
C2
C7
C5
6
B1
JA
D8
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Important: If any parts are missing or damaged, DO NOT RETURN TO RETAILER. Call toll-free (800) 533-2441 or e-mail us at:
help@elenco.com. Customer Service • 150 Carpenter Ave. • Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.
Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers (page 2)
Qty. ID Name Symbol Part # Qty. ID Name Symbol Part #
r 1
NPN Transistor 6SCQ2
r 1
Tube for Sound Energy Demo Container
6SCSEDCT
r 1
100W Resistor 6SCR1
r 1
Flexible Sheet for Sound Energy Demo Container (may include spare)
6SCSEDCF
r 1
5.1kW Resistor 6SCR3
r 1
Speaker 6SCSP2
r 1
Adjustable Resistor 6SCRV
r 1
Keyboard 6SCU26
r 1
500kW Adjustable Resistor
6SCRV3
r 1
Voice Changer 6SCU27
r 1
Photoresistor 6SCRP
r 1
Echo IC 6SCU28
r 2
Slide Switch 6SCS1
r 1
Microphone 6SCX1
r 1
Press Switch 6SCS2
r 1
Stereo Cable 9TLSCST
r 1
Base for Sound Energy Demo Container
6SCSEDCB
You may order additional / replacement parts at our website: www.snapcircuits.net
U27
SP2
U28
S1
S2
U26
RP
Q2
RV
R3
R1
RV3
X1
How to Use Snap Circuits
®
Snap Circuits®uses building blocks with snaps to build the different electrical and electronic circuits in the projects. Each block has a function: there are switch blocks, light blocks, battery blocks, different length wire blocks, etc. These blocks are different colors and have numbers on them so that you can easily identify them. The blocks you will be using are shown as color symbols with level numbers next to them, allowing you to easily snap them together to form a circuit.
For Example:
This is the switch block, which is green and has the marking on it. The part symbols in this booklet may not exactly match the appearance of the actual parts, but will clearly identify them.
This is a wire block, which is blue and comes in different wire lengths. This one has the number , , , , or on it depending on the length of the wire connection required.
There is also a 1-snap wire that is used as a spacer or for interconnection between different layers.
You need a power source to build each circuit. This is labeled and requires two (2) 1.5V “AA” batteries (not included).
A large clear plastic base grid is included with this kit to help keep the circuit blocks properly spaced. You will see evenly spaced posts that the different blocks snap into. The base has rows labeled A-G and columns labeled 1-10.
Next to each part in every circuit drawing is a small number in black. This tells you which level the component is placed at. Place all parts on level 1 first, then all of the parts on level 2, then all of the parts on level 3, etc.
Some circuits use the jumper wires to make unusual connections. Just clip them to the metal snaps or as indicated.
This set contains an egg LED attachment, which can be mounted on the color LED (D8) to enhance its light effects.
This set contains a sound energy demonstration container, which will sometimes be placed over the speaker. Its use is explained in project 13.
To assemble it, lay the tube and flexible sheet over the base, and then push the tube into the base, as shown. Do not disassemble it except to repair it. This set may include a spare for the flexible sheet, and household plastic wrap also works.
S2
2
3 4 5
6
B1
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Egg LED attachment
mounted to D8
Egg
Note: While building the projects, be careful not
to accidentally make a direct connection across the battery holder (a “short circuit”), as this may damage and/or quickly drain the batteries.
Sound Energy Demonstration
Container Assembly
(Adult supervision recommended)
Flexible
sheet
Base
Tube
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About Your Snap Circuits
®
SOUND Parts
(Part designs are subject to change without notice).
BASE GRID
The blue snap wires
are wires used to
connect components.
They are used to
transport electricity and do
not affect circuit performance.
They come in different lengths to
allow orderly arrangement of connections
on the base grid.
The red and black jumper wires make flexible connections for times when using the snap wires would be difficult. They also are used to make connections off the base grid.
Wires transport electricity just like pipes are used to transport water. The colorful plastic coating protects them and prevents electricity from getting in or out.
BATTERY HOLDER
The base grid is a platform for mounting parts and wires. It functions like the printed circuit boards used in most electronic products, or like how the walls are used for mounting the electrical wiring in your home.
SNAP WIRES & JUMPER WIRES
The batteries (B1) produce an electrical voltage using a chemical reaction. This “voltage” can be thought of as electrical pressure, pushing electricity through a circuit just like a pump pushes water through pipes. This voltage is much lower and much safer than that used in your house wiring. Using more batteries increases the “pressure”, therefore, more electricity flows.
Battery Holder (B1)
SLIDE & PRESS SWITCHES
The slide & press switches (S1 & S2) connect (pressed or “ON”) or disconnect (not pressed or “OFF”) the wires in a circuit. When ON they have no effect on circuit performance. Switches turn on electricity just like a faucet turns on water from a pipe.
Slide & Press
Switches (S1 & S2)
RESISTORS
Resistors “resist” the flow of electricity and are used to control or limit the current in a circuit. Snap Circuits
®
SOUND includes 100W(R1) and
5.1kW(R3) resistors (“k” symbolizes 1,000, so R3 is really 5,100W). Materials like metal have very low resistance (<1W), while materials like paper, plastic, and air have near-infinite resistance. Increasing circuit resistance reduces the flow of electricity.
Resistors (R1 & R3)
Adjustable Resistor (RV)
The adjustable resistor (RV) is a
50kW resistor but with a center tap that can be adjusted between 200W and 50kW.
The 500kWadjustable resistor (RV3) is a 500kW resistor that can be adjusted between 200W and 500kW.
500kWAdjustable Resistor (RV3)
About Your Snap Circuits
®
SOUND Parts
LED
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The speaker (SP) converts electricity into sound by making mechanical vibrations. These vibrations create variations in air pressure, which travel across the room. You “hear” sound when your ears feel these air pressure variations.
SPEAKER
Speaker (SP2)
Color LED
(D8)
The color LED (D8) is a light emitting diode, and may be thought of as a special one-way light bulb. In the “forward” direction, (indicated by the “arrow” in the symbol) electricity flows if the voltage exceeds a turn-on threshold (about 1.5V for red, about 2.0V for green, and about 3.0V for blue); brightness then increases. The color LED contains red, green, and blue LEDs, with a micro­circuit controlling then. A high current will burn out an LED, so the current must be limited by other components in the circuit. LED’s block electricity in the “reverse” direction.
CAPACITOR
The 0.1mF, 1mF, and 470mF capacitors (C2, C7, & C5) can store electrical pressure (voltage) for
periods of time. This storage ability allows them to block stable voltage signals and pass changing ones. Capacitors are used for filtering and delay circuits.
Microphone (X1)
The microphone (X1) is actually a resistor that changes in value when changes in air pressure (sounds) apply pressure to its surface.
MICROPHONE
The photoresistor (RP) is a light-sensitive resistor, its value changes from nearly infinite in total darkness to about 1000W when a bright light shines on it.
Photoresistor (RP)
Capacitors (C2, C5, & C7)
TRANSISTORS
ELECTRONIC MODULES
The NPN transistor (Q2) is a component that uses a small electric current to control a large current, and is used in switching, amplifier, and buffering applications. Transistors are easy to miniaturize, and are the main building blocks of integrated circuits including the microprocessor and memory circuits in computers.
The keyboard (U26) contains resistors, capacitors, switches, and an integrated circuit. It can produce two adjustable audio tones at the same time. The tones approximate musical notes, and may not be exact. The tone of the green keys can be adjusted with the tune knob or using external resistors and capacitors. A schematic for it is available at www.snapcircuits.net/faq.
Connections:
(+) - power from batteries RES - resistor freq adjust CAP - capacitor freq adjust OUT - output connection (–) - power return to batteries
See projects 1, 6, & 25 for example of proper connections.
NPN Transistor (Q2)
Keyboard (U26)
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About Your Snap Circuits
®
SOUND Parts
Audio Jack (JA)
OTHER PARTS
The stereo cable is used to connect the audio jack (JA) to your music device or external speaker.
The audio jack (JA) is a connector mounted on snaps, and is used for interfacing your music device or external speaker to Snap Circuits
®
.
The egg LED attachment can be used with the color LED (D8) to enhance the light effects.
Egg
The sound energy demonstration container is used to show that sound waves have energy, and can move things around. See project 13.
Connections:
(+) - power from batteries SPD - speed adjust SP+ - speaker (+) SP– - speaker (–) MIC+ - microphone (+) MIC– - microphone (–) REC - record PLY - play (–) - power return to batteries
See project 7 for example of proper connections.
The voice changer (U27) contains resistors, capacitors, and an integrated circuit that are needed to record and play back sound at different speeds. A schematic for it is available at www.snapcircuits.net/faq.
Connections:
(+) - power from batteries G+ - gain control G– - gain control ADJ - echo adjust INP - input connection OUT - output connection (–) - power return to batteries
See projects 10 & 41 for examples of proper connections.
The echo IC (U28) contains resistors, capacitors, and integrated circuits that are needed to add echo effects to a sound. A schematic for it is available at www.snapcircuits.net/faq.
Introduction to Electricity
What is electricity? Nobody really knows. We only know how to produce it, understand its properties, and how to control it. Electricity is the movement of sub­atomic charged particles (called electrons) through a material due to electrical pressure across the material, such as from a battery.
Power sources, such as batteries, push electricity through a circuit, like a pump pushes water through pipes. Wires carry electricity, like pipes carry water. Devices like LEDs, motors, and speakers use the energy in electricity to do things. Switches and transistors control the flow of electricity like valves and faucets control water. Resistors limit the flow of electricity.
The electrical pressure exerted by a battery or other power source is called voltage and is measured in volts (V). Notice the “+” and “–” signs on the battery; these indicate which direction the battery will “pump” the electricity.
The electric current is a measure of how fast electricity is flowing in a wire, just as the water current describes how fast water is flowing in a pipe. It is expressed in amperes (A) or milliamps (mA, 1/1,000 of an ampere).
The “power” of electricity is a measure of how fast energy is moving through a wire. It is a combination of the voltage and current (Power = Voltage x Current). It is expressed in watts (W).
The resistance of a component or circuit represents how much it resists the electrical pressure (voltage) and limits the flow of electric current. The relationship is Voltage = Current x Resistance. When the resistance increases, less current flows. Resistance is measured in ohms (W), or kilo ohms (kW, 1,000 ohms).
Nearly all of the electricity used in our world is produced at enormous generators driven by steam or water pressure. Wires are used to efficiently transport this energy to homes and businesses where it is used. Motors convert the electricity back into mechanical form to drive machinery and appliances. The most important aspect of electricity in our society is that it allows energy to be easily transported over distances.
Note that “distances” includes not just large distances but also tiny distances. Try to imagine a plumbing structure of the same complexity as the circuitry inside a portable radio - it would have to be large because we can’t make water pipes so small. Electricity allows complex designs to be made very small.
There are two ways of arranging parts in a circuit, in series or in parallel. Here are examples:
Placing components in series increases the resistance; highest value dominates. Placing components in parallel decreases the resistance; lower value dominates.
The parts within these series and parallel sub-circuits may be arranged in different ways without changing what the circuit does. Large circuits are made of combinations of smaller series and parallel circuits.
Series Circuit
Parallel Circuit
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Sound in Our World
Sound is a variation in air pressure created by
a mechanical vibration. See projects 13 & 51 for a demonstration of this. These air pressure variations travel across the room like waves, so we call them sound waves. You “hear” sound when your ears feel these air pressure variations, and convert them to nerve pulses that your brain interprets. Eventually the energy of a sound wave is absorbed, and becomes heat.
Sound waves can also be thought of as waves of temporary compression that travel through materials. Notice that at a loud concert you can sometimes feel the pressure waves, in addition to hearing them. Sound waves can travel through liquids and solids but their speed may change and their energy may be reduced, depending on the characteristics of the material. Sound waves can only travel through a compressible material, and so cannot travel through a vacuum. Outer space is silent, because there is no air or other material for sound waves to travel through.
The “hearing” part of your ear is inside your skull; the flaps you see are just funnels to collect the sound and pass it along to your eardrum inside. When you were young your brain learned to interpret the difference in the information collected from your two ears, and use it to know which direction a sound came from. If one of your ears is clogged, then it is difficult to determine a sound’s direction.
You can compare sound waves from your voice to waves in a pond. When you speak, the movements in your mouth create sound waves just as tossing a rock into the pond creates water waves. Sound waves travel through air as water waves travel across the pond. If someone is nearby, then their ears will feel the air pressure variations caused by your
sound waves just as a small boat at the other side of the pond will feel the water waves.
If the mechanical vibration causing the sound wave occurs at a constant rate, then the sound wave will repeat itself at the same rate; we refer to this as the frequency of the sound wave. Nearly all sound waves have their energy spread unevenly across a range of frequencies. When you say a word, you create a sound wave with energy at various frequencies, just as tossing a handful of various-sized rocks into the pond will create a complicated water wave pattern.
Frequency measures how many times something occurs per second, expressed in units called hertz (Hz). The metric prefixes can be used, so 1,000 repetitions per second is 1 kilohertz (kHz) and 1,000,000 repetitions per second is 1 megahertz (MHz). The range of frequencies that can be heard by the human ear is approximately 20 to 20,000 Hz and is referred to as the audio range.
Just as there are sound waves caused by mechanical vibrations, there are also electrical waves caused by electrical variations. Just as sound waves travel through air, electrical waves travel through wires. A microphone senses pressure variations from sound waves and creates electrical waves at the same frequencies. A speaker converts electricity into
sound, by using the energy in electrical waves to create mechanical vibrations (sound waves) at the same frequencies.
How does the speaker make sound? An electric current flowing through a wire has a very, very tiny magnetic field. Inside the speaker is a coil of wire and a magnet. The coil of wire concentrates the magnetic field from the flowing electric current, enough to make the magnet move slightly, like a vibration. The magnet’s vibration creates the air pressure variations that travel to your ears.
Your speaker can only create sound from a CHANGING electrical signal, for unchanging electrical signals it acts like a 32 ohm resistor. (An unchanging signal does not cause the magnet in the speaker to move, so no sound waves are created). Electrical variations at high frequencies (referred to as radio frequencies) cannot be heard by your ears, but can be used to create electromagnetic radio waves, which travel through air and are used for many forms of communication. In AM and FM radio, voice or music is superimposed on radio waves, allowing it to be transmitted over great distances, to later be decoded and listened to.
-9-
Sound and water waves
Speaker sound waves
Sound in Our World
In stereo, sound is produced on several speakers (or earphones) with varying frequencies/loudness on each. This gives the impression that the sound is coming from different directions, and is more pleasing to listen to. Mono sound is the same on all speakers, and is easier to produce. Note that a “stereo speaker” can be several speakers (possibly of different sizes) in one package. Your Snap Circuits
®
speaker (SP2) is a mono
speaker. Surround sound is a technique for placing several speakers (with different sounds from each) around the listener, to create a more interesting listening experience.
The loudness of sound waves is a measure of the pressure level, and is expressed in decibels (dB, a logarithmic scale). Long-term exposure to loud sounds can lead to hearing loss. Here are some examples of sound levels:
Sound waves travel very fast, but sometimes you can perceive the effects of their speed. Ever notice how sometimes you see lightning before you hear the thunder? The reason is because light travels at about 186,000 miles per second, while sound travels at only about 1,100 feet per second in air. Sound can travel through liquids and solids, but with increased speed (the speed depends on the material’s compressibility and density). Sound travels 4.3 times faster in water than in air; this difference in speed confuses our ears, making it difficult to perceive the direction of sound while underwater.
A sonic boom is a shock wave that occurs when an object travels through air at supersonic speeds (faster than the speed of sound). These sonic shock waves are similar to how the bow of a boat produces waves in the water. Sonic shock waves can carry a lot of sound energy and can be very unpleasant to hear, like an explosion. Aircraft can fly at supersonic speeds, and the sonic boom produced is so unpleasant that aircraft are rarely permitted to fly at supersonic speeds over populated areas.
Sound waves can reflect off walls and go around corners, though their energy may be reduced depending on the angle and the roughness of the surface. Sometimes sound waves can be channeled to focus in a certain direction. As an example, get a long tube, like the ones for wrapping paper. Use one of the projects that make a continuous tone, such as projects 6 or 92. Hold one end of the tube next to the speaker (use the yellow side with the grating) and the other end near your ear, then remove the tube and compare the sound volume at the same distance from the speaker. The long tube should make the sound reaching your ear louder, because sound waves reflect off the tube walls and stay concentrated, instead of spreading out across the room.
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Sound Source Level
Threshold of pain 130dB Chain saw 110dB Normal conversation 50dB Calm breathing 10dB Hearing threshold 0dB
Surround sound
Sonic boom
It’s hard to perceive sound direction underwater.
Placing a long tube next to the speaker keeps its sound waves together longer.
Sound waves
Long tube
Speaker
Sound in Our World
Some of a sound wave’s energy can reflect off walls or objects and come back to you. Normally you don’t notice these reflections when you are speaking because not all of the energy is reflected, and the delay is so short that your ears can’t distinguish it from the original sound, but sometimes (such as in a very large open room) you can hear them ­these are echoes! You hear an echo when a lot of the energy of your voice is reflected back to you after a noticeable delay. The delay time is the distance (to the reflection point and back) divided by the speed of sound. Most people cannot distinguish reflected sound waves with delays of less than 1/15 of a second, and perceive them as being part of the original sound. Echoes can be simulated electronically by replaying a recorded sound with a small delay and at reduced volume. See project 10 and others for examples.
In project 10, if your speaker is too close to your microphone then the echo sound can be picked up by the microphone and echoed again and again until you can’t hear anything else. The same thing can occur in telephone systems, and these systems sometimes have echo-cancelling circuitry to prevent problems (especially in overseas calls, where the transmission delay times may be longer).
Engineers developing sensitive audio equipment need to make very accurate sound measurements. They need rooms that are sealed from outside sounds, and need to minimize the measured signal’s reflections off the walls/ceiling/floor. Specialized rooms have been designed for this, called anechoic chambers. These chambers are virtually soundproof and have specially shaped materials (usually made of foam) on the walls to absorb sound waves without producing any echoes. These chambers simulate a quiet, open space, allowing the engineers to accurately measure the equipment being tested.
Everything has a natural frequency, its resonance frequency, at which it will vibrate more easily. When sound waves strike an object at its natural frequency, the object can absorb and store significantly more energy from the sound waves, as vibration. To help understand this concept, think of a playground swing, which tends to always swing back and forth at the same rate. If you push the swing at the ideal moment, it will absorb energy from you and swing higher. You don’t need to push the swing very hard to make it go high, you just
need to keep adding energy at the right moment. In project 13 (Sound Energy Demonstration), the frequency is tuned to the speaker’s natural frequency, making it vibrate noticeably.
Resonance is an important consideration in the design of musical instruments, and also in construction. If high winds blow on a tall building or a bridge at the structure’s resonant frequency, vibrations can slowly increase until the structure is torn apart and collapses.
A cone can help you project your voice. A cone keeps the sound waves (air pressure variations) together longer, so they don’t spread out so quickly. Long ago, people who had trouble hearing used an ear trumpet, which helps collect sound waves. A person would speak into the wide end of the ear trumpet, and the trumpet makes the sound louder at the listening person’s ear. Electronic hearing aids have replaced ear trumpets. Doctors use a stethoscope to hear inside patient’s bodies. A stethoscope uses a cone­like structure to collect sound waves; then passes them into the doctor’s ear.
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Sound waves reflecting off a wall
Anechoic chamber
Small pushes at the right moment will make the swing go higher.
Sound in Our World
Electronically we amplify sound by converting the sound waves into an electrical signal, amplify the electrical signal, and then convert that back to sound waves.
There are many other applications for sound waves. Here are some examples:
In SONAR (short for SOund Navigation And Ranging), sound waves are sent out underwater at various frequencies and the echoes are measured; the distance to any objects can be determined using the time for the echoes to arrive, and the speed of sound. SONAR is used for navigating around underwater obstacles and for detecting other ships, especially submarines. SONAR is also used by the fishing industry to help find and harvest fish. Sound waves can also be used to determine the depth of an oil well. RADAR (RAdio Detection And Ranging) is similar to SONAR but uses radio waves instead of sound waves.
Ultrasound waves are above 20 kHz, beyond the range of human hearing. Bats use ultrasound waves to effectively “see” in the dark. Ultrasound waves are also used in medical imaging, to create pictures of muscles and organs in the human body. Ultrasound waves are sometimes used in cleaning items like jewelry.
Ultrasonic welding is used in industry to bond materials (usually plastics) together using high frequency sound waves. The energy of the sound waves is concentrated at the points to be bonded, and basically melts the material at the contact points. This can create a strong bond, without using glue or nails. Ultrasonic welding has been used to bond the bottoms of Snap Circuits
®
parts in the past, and might still be used for the speaker (SP2) and microphone (X1).
Earthquakes are compression waves, similar to sound waves but with enormous power. Using triangulation from several measurement points, and knowing how fast these waves can travel across the earth’s surface, scientists can determine where the earthquake began (called the epicenter).
Music
The subject of music is one where the worlds of art and science come together. Unfortunately, the artistic/musician field works with qualities that depend on our feelings and so are difficult to express using numbers while science/engineering works with the opposite ­clearly defined, measurable qualities. As a result, some of the terms used may seem confusing at first, but you will get used to them.
Music is when vibrations (creating sound waves) occur in an orderly and controlled manner forming a pattern with their energy concentrated at specific frequencies, usually pleasant to listen to. Noise is when the vibrations occur in an irregular manner with their energy spread across a wide range of frequencies, usually annoying to hear (static on a radio is a good example). Notice how some people refer to music that they don’t like as noise. In electrical systems, noise is undesired interference that can obscure the signal of interest.
Another way to think of this is that the ear tries to estimate the next sounds it will hear. Music with a beat, a rhythm, and familiar instruments can be thought of as very predictable, so we find it pleasant to listen to. Notice also that we always prefer familiar songs to music that we are hearing for the first time. Sudden, loud, unpredictable sounds (such as gunfire, a glass breaking, or an alarm clock) are very
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Cone
Ear Trumpet Stethoscope
Horn
Anvil or jig
Plastic
parts
Phase 1 Phase 2 Phase 3
Pressure is applied by the horn.
The horn vibrates the plastic parts very quickly.
The plastic parts melt together from the friction created.
SONAR
Ultrasonic welding
Ultrasound photo of a heart (echocardiogram)
Sound in Our World
unnerving and unpleasant. Most electronic speech processing systems being developed use some form of speech prediction filters.
Take a piece of string or rope roughly 4 feet long and tie one end of it to a chair or other piece of furniture. Swing the other end up and down so that you have a cyclic pattern, as shown:
Now swing it three times as fast (three times the frequency), to produce this pattern:
Now try to swing it five times as fast (five times the frequency), to produce this pattern:
Since the later patterns are frequency multiples of the first, we refer to them as overtones (the music term) or harmonics (the electronics term) and the original pattern is called the fundamental. If you could combine all three of the above patterns onto the string then you would get a pattern, which looks like this:
This combined pattern (a single fundamental with overtones) is called a tone (and a pure tone is a single fundamental with no overtones). Notice that each pattern is more difficult to produce than the one before it, with the combined pattern being quite complicated. And also notice that the more complicated patterns are much more interesting and pleasing to look at than the simpler ones. Well the same thing applies to sound waves. Complex patterns that have many overtones for each fundamental are more pleasant to listen to than simple patterns. If many overtones were combined together, the results would approximate a square wave shape.
All traditional music instruments use this principle, with the instrument shapes and materials perfected through the years to produce many overtones for each fundamental chord or key that is played by the user. Grand pianos sound better than upright pianos since their larger shape enables them to produce more overtones, especially at lower frequencies. Concert halls sound better than small rooms because they are designed for best overtone performance and to take advantage of the fact that sound waves can reflect off walls to produce different overtone
relationships between both of your ears. The same thing applies to stereo sound. You may have heard the term acoustics; this is the science of designing rooms for best sound effects.
A commonly used musical scale (which measures pitch) will now be introduced. This scale is called the equal temperament scale, expressed in hertz. You might think of this as a conversion table between the artistic and scientific worlds since it expresses pitch in terms of frequency. Each overtone (overtone 0 being the fundamental) is divided into 12 semitones: C, C# (“C-flat”), D, D#, E, F, F#, G, G#, A, A#, and B. The semitones increase by the ratio 12:2, or 1.05946. Musical notes (tones) are the measure of pitch and are expressed using both the semitone and the overtone, such as A3, G#4, D6, A#1, and E2.
(frequency in hertz and rounded off)
-13-
Overtone
C C# D D# E F
0 16.4 17.3 18.4 19.4 20.6 21.8 1 32.7 34.6 36.7 38.9 41.2 45.7 2 65.4 69.3 73.4 77.8 82.4 87.3 3 130 139 147 156 165 175 4 262 278 294 311 330 349 5 523 554 587 622 659 698 6 1047 1109 1174 1245 1319 1397 7 2093 2217 2344 2489 2637 2794 8 4186 4435 4698 4978 5274 5588 9 8372 8870 9397 9956 10548 11175
Overtone
F# G G# A A# B
0 23.1 24.5 26.0 27.5 29.1 30.9 1 46.2 49.0 51.9 55.0 58.3 61.7 2 92.5 98.0 104 110 11 7 123 3 185 196 208 220 233 247 4 370 392 415 440 466 494 5 740 784 831 880 932 988 6 1480 1568 1661 1760 1865 1976 7 2960 3136 3322 3520 3729 3951 8 5920 6271 6645 7040 7459 7902 9 11840 12542 13290 14080 14917 15804
Sound in Our World
On your U26 keyboard, the blue keys approximate the 5th overtone notes, and the green keys approximate the 6th overtone notes; actual frequency may vary from the musical scale. The tone of the green keys can be adjusted with the tune knob, allowing them to be in tune with the blue keys, or out of tune with them. The tone of the green keys may also be adjusted using external resistors and capacitors, which can change the frequency range dramatically (and even beyond the hearing range of your ears), and can create an optical theremin. Your keyboard can play one blue note and one green note at the same time; if you press two keys of the same color at the same time, only the higher note will be played. Projects 1-4 and 25-27 demonstrate the capabilities of the U26 keyboard.
On most instruments, when you play a note the sound produced is initially loud and then decreases with time. On your U26 keyboard, a note ends when you release the key, unless you connected external resistors to produce a continuous tone. More complex electronic instruments can simulate more notes at the same time, have more advanced techniques for producing overtones, and continue to play the note with decreasing loudness after the key has been released.
The musical world’s equivalent to frequency is pitch. The higher the frequency, the higher the pitch of the sound. Frequencies above 2,000 Hz can be considered to provide treble tone. Frequencies about 300 Hz and below provide bass tone.
Up to now, the musical measures of pitch and loudness have been discussed. But many musical sounds have the same pitch and loudness and yet sound very different. For
example, the sound of a guitar compared to that of a piano for the same musical note. The difference is a quality known as timbre. Timbre describes how a sound is perceived, its roughness. Scientifically it is due to differences in the levels of the various overtones, and so cannot be expressed using a single number.
Now consider the following two tones, which differ slightly in frequency:
If they are played at the same time then their sound waves would be added together to produce:
Notice that the combined wave has a regular pattern of where the two tones add together and where they cancel each other out. This is the effect that produces the beat you hear in music. Two tones (that are close in frequency and have similar amplitude for their fundamental and for each of their overtones) will beat at the rate of their frequency difference. Rhythm is the pattern of regular beat that a song has.
Now observe this tone:
The frequency is slowly increasing and decreasing in a regular pattern. This is an example of vibrato. If the frequency is changing slowly then it will sound like a varying pitch; a fast vibrato (several times a second) produces an interesting sound effect. The alarm IC (U2, included in Snap Circuits
®
models SC-100, 300, 500, or 750) produces sounds using the vibrato effect.
Tempo is a musical term, which simply describes how quickly a song is played.
-14-
DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits
After building the circuits given in this booklet, you may wish to experiment on your own. Use the projects in this booklet as a guide, as many important design concepts are introduced throughout them. Every circuit will include a power source (the batteries), a resistance (which might be a resistor, capacitor, speaker, integrated circuit, etc.), and wiring paths between them and back.
You must be careful not to create “short circuits” (very low­resistance paths across the batteries, see examples at right) as this will damage components and/or quickly drain your batteries. Only connect the keyboard (U26), voice
changer (U27), and echo IC (U28) using configurations given in the projects, incorrectly doing so may damage them. ELENCO®is not responsible for parts damaged due to
incorrect wiring.
Here are some important guidelines:
ALWAYS USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN EXPERIMENTING ON YOUR OWN.
ALWAYS include at least one component that will limit the current through a circuit, such
as the speaker, capacitors, ICs (which must be connected properly), microphone, or resistors.
ALWAYS use LEDs, transistors, and switches in conjunction with other components that
will limit the current through them. Failure to do so will create a short circuit and/or damage those parts.
ALWAYS connect capacitors so that the “+” side gets the higher voltage.
ALWAYS disconnect your batteries immediately and check your wiring if something
appears to be getting hot.
ALWAYS check your wiring before turning on a circuit.
ALWAYS connect the keyboard (U26), voice changer (U27), and echo IC (U28) using
configurations given in the projects or as per the connection description on pages 6 and 7.
NEVER connect to an electrical outlet in your home in any way.
NEVER leave a circuit unattended when it is turned on.
NEVER use headphones at high sound levels.
For all of the projects given in this book, the parts may be arranged in different ways without changing the circuit. For example, the order of parts connected in series or in parallel does not matter — what matters is how combinations of these sub-circuits are arranged together.
Placing a 3-snap wire directly across the batteries is a SHORT CIRCUIT.
This is also a
SHORT CIRCUIT.
When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, this large circuit has a SHORT CIRCUIT path (as shown by the arrows). The short circuit prevents any other portions of the circuit from ever working.
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
Examples of SHORT CIRCUITS - NEVER DO THESE!!!
Warning to Snap Circuits®owners: Do not connect
additional voltage sources from other sets, or you may damage your parts. Contact Elenco
®
if you have
questions or need guidance.
You are encouraged to tell us about new programs and circuits you create. If they are unique, we will post them with your name and state on our website at:
www.snapcircuits.net/learning_center/kids_creation
Send your suggestions to ELENCO
®
: elenco@elenco.com.
ELENCO®provides a circuit designer so that you can make your own Snap Circuits®drawings. This Microsoft®Word document can be downloaded from:
www.snapcircuits.net/learning_center/kids_creation
or through the www.snapcircuits.net website.
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Never connect Snap Circuits
®
to the electrical outlets in your home in any way!
!
!
!
NEVER
DO!
!
!
!
-15-
Advanced Troubleshooting
(Adult supervision recommended)
ELENCO®is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow this procedure to systematically determine which ones need replacing:
(Note: Some of these tests connect an LED directly across the batteries without another component to limit the current. Normally this might damage the LED, however Snap Circuits
®
LEDs have internal resistors added to protect them from incorrect wiring, and will not be damaged.)
1. Color LED (D8), speaker (SP2), and
battery holder (B1): Place batteries in
holder. Place the color LED directly across the battery holder (LED + to battery +), it should light and be changing colors. “Tap” the speaker across the battery holder contacts; you should hear static as it touches. If neither works, then replace your batteries and repeat. If still bad, then the battery holder is damaged. Test both battery holders.
2.
Red & black jumper wires: Use this
mini-circuit to test each jumper wire; the LED should light.
3.
Snap wires: Use this mini-circuit to test
each of the snap wires, one at a time. The LED should light.
4.
Slide switch (S1) and Press switch (S2):
Use this mini-circuit; if the LED doesn’t light then the slide switch is bad. Replace the slide switch with the press switch to test it.
5.
100W (R1) and 5.1kW (R3) resistors, and microphone (X1):
Use this mini-circuit; the LED will be bright if the R1 resistor is good. Next use the 5.1kW resistor in place of the 100W resistor; the LED should be much dimmer but still light. Next, replace
5.1kW resistor with the microphone (“+” to right); the LED should flicker dimly but still light.
6.
500kWadjustable resistor (RV3) and Photoresistor (RP):
Use the mini-circuit from test 5 but replace the 100W resistor with RV3. Turning RV3’s knob all the way to the left (counter-clockwise) should make the color LED bright and most other settings should make the LED dim or off; otherwise RV3 is bad. Next, replace RV3 with the photoresistor, and shine a bright light on it. Waving your hand over the phototransistor (changing the light that shines on it) should change the brightness of the color LED; otherwise the photoresistor is bad.
7.
Adjustable resistor (RV): Build project
98. Move the resistor control lever to both sides. The color LED (D8) should be bright if the lever is to the far left or far right, and dim if the lever is in the middle.
8.
NPN transistor (Q2): Build the mini-
circuit shown here. The color LED (D8) should only be on if the press switch (S2) is pressed. If otherwise, then Q2 is damaged.
-16-
1
Advanced Troubleshooting
(Adult supervision recommended)
9. Keyboard (U26): Build project 92, but
omit the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) and the
5.1kW resistor (R3). You should hear a tone when you press any key. Turning the TUNE knob while pressing any green key should change the tone slightly. Now add R3 to the circuit, and you should hear a continuous tone. If any of this does not work then the keyboard is damaged.
10.
0.1mF (C2), 1mF (C7), and 470mF (C5) capacitors:
Build project 92; removing C2 from it should change the tone, or C2 is damaged. Next, replace C2 with C7; the pitch of the tone should be lower now, or C7 is damaged. Next, replace C7 with C5; you should hear a click every few seconds, or C5 is damaged.
11.
Voice changer (U27): Build project 7.
Follow the project’s instructions to confirm that you can make a recording and play it back at different speeds.
12.
Echo IC (U28): Build the circuit shown at
right, turn it on, and set the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to the right. Press any keys on the keyboard; you should hear tones with echo, and be able to adjust echo level using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). Removing the 1mF capacitor (C7) should reduce the volume a little. Sometimes an echo IC problem can be fixed by turning the circuit off and back on to reset it.
12.
Audio Jack (JA) and stereo cable: If
you have headphones, use them to test the audio jack using project 14. If you have a music device, use it to test the audio jack using project 66. Use project 66 to test your stereo cable.
13.
Sound energy demonstration container:
If the flexible sheet is damaged, disassemble the container and replace the flexible sheet; this set may have included a spare for it, or you can use household plastic wrap.
ELENCO
®
150 Carpenter Avenue
Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.
Phone: (847) 541-3800
Fax: (847) 520-0085
e-mail: help@elenco.com
Website: www.elenco.com
You may order additional / replacement
parts at: www.snapcircuits.net
-17-
Project # Description Page #
1 Electronic Keyboard 20
2 Aligning the Keyboard 20
3 Be a Musician 21
4 Be a Musician (II) 21
5 Optical Theremin 22
6 Keyboard Slider 22
7 Voice Changer 23
8 Voice Changer & Light 23
9 Color Light 23
10 Echo 24
11 Echo with Headphones 24
12 Louder Echo with Headphones 24
13
Sound Energy Demonstration
25,26
14 Keyboard in Stereo 27
15 Optical Theremin in Stereo 27
16 Light & Sound 28
17 See Saw 28
18 Light, Sound, & Motion 29
19 Brighter Light, Sound, & Motion 29
20 Keyboard with Voice Changer 30
21
Optical Keyboard with Voice Changer
30
22
Keyboard Voice Changer & Light
30
23 Voice Changer with Echo 31
24 Sound Controlled Light 31
25 Low Pitch Keyboard 32
26 Lower Pitch Keyboard 32
27 Very Low Pitch Keyboard 32
28 Echo Speed Changer 32
29 Keyboard Echo 33
30 Lower Pitch Keyboard Echo 33
31 Optical Keyboard Echo 33
Project # Description Page #
32
Low Pitch Optical Keyboard Echo
33
33
Keyboard Echo with Stereo Effects
34
34 Optical Echo in Stereo 35
35 Color Short Light 35
36 Keyboard with Optical Theremin 36
37
Keyboard with Optical Theremin (II)
36
38
Adjustable Dual Range Keyboard
36
39
Adjustable Dual Range Keyboard (II)
36
40
Adjustable Dual Range Keyboard (III)
36
41 Your Music with Echo 37
42 Your Music with Echo and Light 37
43 Your Music Speed Changer 38
44 Your Music Speed Changer (II) 38
45 Your Music Speed Changer (III) 38
46 Sound On Light 38
47 Super Optical Keyboard Echo 39
48 Softer Optical Keyboard Echo 39
49 Reflection Detector 39
50
Super Optical Keyboard Echo for Headphones
40
51 Sound is Air Pressure 41
52
Sound is Air Pressure - Keyboard
41
53 Brightness Adjuster 42
54 Brightness Limiters 42
55 Big Brightness Adjuster 42
56 Photo Brightness Adjuster 43
57
Amplified Photo Brightness Adjuster
43
58
Amplified Big Brightness Adjuster
43
59 Cup & String Communication 44
60 Audio Amplifier 45
61 Low Power Audio Amplifier 45
62 Audio Amplifier with L/R Control 45
Project # Description Page #
63 Your Music without Echo 46
64
Low Power Your Music without Echo
46
65 Adjustable Music without Echo 46
66 L/R Music Amplifier 47
67 Another Transistor Amplifier 47
68 Microphone Resistance - LED 48
69 Microphone Resistance - Audio 48
70 Time Light 49
71 Time Light (II) 49
72 Easier Adjust Time Light 49
73 Small Adjust Time Light 49
74 Day Light 50
75 Lower Day Light 50
76 Dark Light 50
77 Blow Noise 50
78 Listen to the Light Change 51
79
Adjustable Listen to the Light Change
51
80 Bright or Loud? 51
81 LED Keyboard Control 52
82 LED Keyboard Control (II) 52
83 Photo LED Keyboard Control 52
84
Adjustable LED Keyboard Control
52
85 Capacitor Keyboard Control 53
86 Capacitor Keyboard Control (II) 53
87 Voice & Keyboard Echo 53
88 LED Voice & Keyboard Echo 54
89 Photo LED Keyboard Echo 54
90 Photo LED Keyboard 54
91 Audio Dark Light 54
92 Oscillator 55
93 Oscillator (II) 55
Project Listings
-18-
Project # Description Page #
94 Oscillator (III) 55
95 Oscillator (IV) 55
96 Oscillator (V) 55
97 Oscillator (VI) 55
98 Left Right Bright Light 55
99 Adjustable Oscillator 56
100 Adjustable Oscillator (II) 56
101 Adjustable Oscillator (III) 56
102 Adjustable Oscillator (IV) 56
103 Water Detector 56
104 Clicker 57
105 Clicker with Echo 57
106 3V Audio Amplifier 58
107 Mini Music Player 58
108 Voice Echo with Light 58
109 Color Sound 59
110 Color Sound (II) 59
111 Color Sound (III) 59
112 Backwards Color Sound 59
113 White Light 60
114 Red to White 60
115 Alarm 60
116 Super Voice Echo with Light 61
117 Press Echo 61
118 Photo Echo 61
119 Loud Press Photo Echo 61
120 Knob Echo 61
121 Echo Light Headphone 62
122
Echo Light Headphone Variants
62
123 Press Echo Light 62
124 Photo Echo Light 62
125 Another Voice Echo Light 63
Project # Description Page #
126 Daylight Voice Echo 63
127 Dark Voice Echo 64
128 Dark Echo Light 64
129 Dark Echo Variants 64
130 Day Echo Light 65
131 Day Echo Variants 65
132 Photo Light Timer 65
133 Adjustable Photo Light Timer 65
134 Tone Stoppers 66
135 Tone Stoppers (II) 66
136 Tone Stoppers (III) 66
137 Tone Stoppers (IV) 66
138 Tone Stoppers (V) 67
139 Alarm Light 67
140
Voice Changer with Headphones
67
141 Day Keyboard 68
142 Night Keyboard 68
143 Color Keyboard 69
144 Color Keyboard (II) 69
145 Color Keyboard (III) 69
146 Color Keyboard (IV) 69
147 Color Keyboard (V) 70
148 Color Keyboard (VI) 70
149
Adjustable Voice Changer & Light
70
150
Adjustable Voice Changer & Light (II) 70
151 Play Fast 71
152 Red First 71
153 Adjustable Timer Tone 72
154 Photo Timer Tone 72
155 Delay Lamp 72
156 Adjustable Delay Lamp 72
157 Water Alarm 73
Project # Description Page #
158 Continuity Tester 73
159 High Low Light 73
160 Flicker Clicker 74
161 Fast Flicker Clicker 74
162 Slow Flicker Clicker 74
163 Timer Tone 74
164 Little Battery 75
165 Tiny Battery 75
166 Little Battery Beep 75
167 Capacitors in Series 76
168 Capacitors in Series (II) 76
169 Capacitors in Series (III) 76
170 More Capacitors in Series 76
171 Capacitors in Parallel 77
172 Capacitors in Parallel (II) 77
173 Capacitors in Parallel (III) 77
174 More Capacitors in Parallel 77
175 Resistors in Series 78
176 Resistors in Parallel 78
177 Lots of Resistors in Series 79
178 Lots of Resistors in Parallel 79
179 Be a Loud Musician 80
180 Be a Loud Musician (II) 80
181 Morse Code 81
182 Transistor Audio Amplifier 82
183 Transistor Audio Amplifier (II) 82
184 Make Your Own Parts 83
185 Color Touch Light 83
186 Test Your Hearing 84
187 See the Sound 84
188 See the Spectrum 85
Project Listings
-19-
Project 1
Electronic Keyboard
Placement Level
Numbers
Snappy says the green keys have approximately double the pitch (frequency) of the blue keys. When the blue and green keys have been aligned using the TUNE knob, then they have (almost) exactly double the pitch, and sound good together because they are in harmony.
Placement Level
Numbers
(1-snap wire is placed
under the speaker)
Project 2 Aligning the Keyboard
Use the preceding circuit. Press one of the green keys and turn the TUNE knob on the keyboard to adjust the pitch of the tone. The TUNE knob will not affect the blue keys.
Now turn the TUNE knob while pressing the blue C key and the green C key at the same time. Slowly turn the knob across its entire range, and see how the sound varies. At most TUNE knob positions you will notice separate tones from the blue and green keys, but there will be a knob position where the blue and green tones blend together and seem like a single musical note - this is the best TUNE setting to play songs with. The blue and green keys are now aligned together.
Snap Circuits®uses electronic blocks that snap onto a clear plastic grid to build different circuits. These blocks have different colors and numbers on them so that you can easily identify them.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the board first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2. Then, assemble the part marked with a 3. Note that the 1­snap wire is placed beneath the speaker (SP). Install two (2) “AA” batteries (not included) into each of the battery holders (B1) if you have not done so already.
Turn on the slide switch (S1), and press any of the keys on the keyboard (U26) to hear tones. Two tones may be played at the same time, one tone from the blue keys and one tone from the green keys. If you press two keys of the same color then the higher pitch one will be played.
-20-
To play a song, just press the key corresponding with the letter shown. If there is a “
” after a letter, press the key longer than usual.
Mary Had a Little Lamb
E  D C D E E E– D D D– E G G–
Ma-ry had a lit-tle lamb, Lit-tle lamb, lit- tle lamb.
E D C D E E E E D D E D C–––
Ma-ry had a lit-tle lamb, Whose fleece was white as snow.
Row, Row, Row Your Boat
C– C– C D E– E D E F G–––
Row, row, row your boat, Gen-tly down the stream.
C C C G G G E E E C C C G F E D C–––
Mer-ri-ly, mer-ri-ly, mer-ri-ly, mer-ri-ly, Life is but a dream.
The Farmer in the Dell
––G C C C C C–– D E  E E E
The far-mer in the dell, The far-mer in the
E–– G– G A G E C  D E E D D C––
dell, Heigh-ho the der-ry-oh, the far-mer in the dell.
Muffin Man
D G G A B C G  F# E A A  G F# D D
Do you know the muf-fin man, The muf-fin man, the muf- fin man?
D G G A  B  G  G G  A  A  D D G––
Do you know the muf-fin man Who lives on Dru-ry Lane?
Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star
C C  G G A A G F F E E D D  C–
Twin-kle, twin-kle, lit-tle star, How I won-der what you are.
G G F F E E D– G G F F E E D–
Up a-bove the world so high, Like a dia-mond in the sky.
C C  G G A A G F F E E D D  C––
Twin-kle, twin-kle, lit-tle star, How I won-der what you are.
Rain, Rain, Go Away
G E G G E G G  E A G G  E
Rain, rain, go a-way. Come a-gain some o-ther day.
F F D D D F F D G F E D E C C– 
We want to go out- side and play. Rain, rain, go a-way.
For He’s a Jolly Good Fellow
––C E E E D E F E E D D D C D 
For he’s a jol-ly good fel-low, For he’s a jol-ly good
E C  D E E E D E F– A  A G G G F D C– –
fel-low, For he’s a jol-ly good fel-low, Which no-bo-dy can de- ny.
Ring Around the Rosy
G G  E A G E F G G E A G E
Ring a-round the ro-sy, A poc-ket full of pos-ies,
F D F D F G G C–
Ash-es, ash-es, We all fall down!
Mystery song (see if you recognize it)
C C D C F E– C C D C G F– C C C A F F E A# A# A F G F–
Project 3 Be a Musician
Project 4 Be a Musician (II)
Use the preceding circuit and songs, but press both the blue and green keys for each note, at the same time. Try this with the blue and green keys aligned (as per project 2), but also try them at different TUNE knob settings (so the keys are out
of alignment.
-21-
Some songs have been modified to make them easier to play on your keyboard.
Project 5
Optical Theremin
A theremin is an electronic musical instrument where you change the sound by moving your hands around near it (without touching it); using the tiny changes your hands have on the electromagnetic field of an antenna. This circuit is an optical theremin because instead you adjust the sound by changing the amount of light reaching a photosensor (the photoresistor).
Project 6
Keyboard Slider
Modify the preceding circuit to match this one. Turn on both slide switches (S1), and move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) around to change the sound. At some settings there may not be any sound.
You can play the keyboard (U26) keys while changing the sound with the adjustable resistor, to get a combination of sound effects. Turn off the left slide switch to disable the adjustable resistor sound effects.
Build the circuit as shown. Turn on both slide switches (S1), and move your hand over the photoresistor (RP). You can adjust the sound just by moving your hand around. See what range of sounds you can produce, then change the amount of light in the room, and see how sound the range of sounds has changed. There may not be any sound if there is too much or too little light on the photoresistor.
You can play the keyboard (U26) keys while adjusting the sound using the photoresistor, to get a combination of sound effects. Turn off the left slide switch to disable the photoresistor sound effects.
-22-
Project 7 Voice Changer
Placement Level
Numbers
+
Project 9
Color Light
+
LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) convert electrical energy into light; the color of the light emitted depends on the characteristics of the material used in them.
The color LED actually contains separate red, green, and blue lights, with a micro-circuit controlling them.
Project 8
Voice Changer & Light
Build the circuit as shown. Turn on the slide switch (S1), and enjoy the light show from the color LED (D8). For best effects, place the egg LED attachment on the color LED, and dim the room lights.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 3-snap wire that is next to the speaker (SP2) with the color LED (D8, “+” to the left). Now when you press S2 to play the recording, the sound will not be as sound, but the color LED will be flashing.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the board first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2. Then, assemble the part marked with a 3. Install two (2) “AA” batteries (not included) into each of the battery holders (B1) if you have not done so already. Be sure to install the microphone (X1) with its “+” side positioned as shown.
Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to mid-range, turn OFF the left slide switch (S1), and then turn on the right slide switch. Now turn on the left slide switch, you hear a beep signaling that you may begin recording. Talk into the microphone until you hear a beep (signaling that recording time is over), then turn off the left slide switch to exit recording mode. Push the press switch (S2) to play back the recording, and turn the knob on RV3 to change the playback speed. You can play your recording faster or slower by changing the setting on RV3.
Recording time is 6 seconds at normal speed, but this can be changed depending on the setting of RV3 when you are making the recording.
Egg LED
Attachment
-23-
Build the circuit as shown, and connect your own headphones (not included in this set) to the audio jack (JA). Turn on the bottom slide switch (S1).
Talk into the microphone, and listen the echo on your headphones. Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) for most comfortable sound level (turn to the left for higher volume, most of RV3’s range will be very low volume), then adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV); move the lever up for more echo or down for less echo. Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts. Also try it while saying different words/sounds.
Turn on the top slide switch to make the sound louder, or turn it off to make the sound softer.
Project 10
Echo
Project 11
Echo with Headphones
Project 12
Louder Echo
with
Headphones
Headphones
(not included)
WARNING: Headphones performance
varies, so use caution. Start with low volume, and then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
Turning on the top slide switch adds the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) to the circuit, which increases the amplification in the echo IC. With headphones, the sound can be made louder because the microhone does not pick it up easily.
Build the circuit as shown, and place it in a quiet room. Connect the speaker (SP2) using the red & black jumper wires, and then hold it away from the microphone (X1). Turn on the slide switch (S1). Talk into the microphone, and listen the echo on the speaker. Adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV); move the lever up for more echo or down for less echo. Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts. Also try it while saying different words/sounds.
Note: you must hold the speaker away from the microphone or the circuit may self-oscillate due to feedback. You also need a quiet room, with low background noise.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the 1mF capacitor (C7). The sound is louder now when both slide switches (S1) are on.
If you hold your headphones next to the microphone (X1), you may hear a whining sound, because the headphones sound might be picked up by the microphone and be echoed again and again and again.
If the speaker is too close to the microphone, then the speaker’s sound will be picked up by the microphone and be echoed again and again and again, until you can’t hear anything else. The same thing can happen if the room is too noisy, or if you talk too loud.
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Project 13 Sound Energy Demonstration
Pour salt, glitter, or small foam/candy balls (not included) into the container, but do not cover the bottom.
Assemble the Sound energy demonstration container (as per page 4, or shown on next page) if you have not done so already. Build the circuit as shown. Turn off the left slide switch (S1) and turn on the right slide switch. Lay the speaker (SP2) down on the unused 3-snap and 6-snap wires (to elevate it slightly off the table); be sure it is lying flat, and place the sound energy demonstration container over it. Pour some salt, glitter, small foam or candy balls of 0.1 inch diameter or less (not included) or similar into the container, but not enough to cover the bottom.
Press the keys on the keyboard to make sound. For some keys the salt/glitter/balls will vibrate and bounce or dance around in the container, find the key that gives the best effects. Most keys will create little or no vibration. For the best key, adjust the TUNE knob on the keyboard for best effects.
Now turn on the left slide switch and move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) around. At some positions the salt/glitter/balls will vibrate and bounce or dance around in the container; find the setting that gives the best effects. Press some keyboard keys to add more sound effects.
Experiment with different materials in the container and see which give the most impressive results. Our engineers found that nonpareils (round decorative candy sprinkles) of up to 0.1” work best.
Try lifting the container a little higher above the speaker with your hands, and see how much this affects the bounce height; see where you get the best effects. Try it at best key or RV setting, and at other keys/settings. Also, placing the speaker directly on the table (without the 3-snap and 6­snap under it) should reduce the vibration a little, but you can try it to see the difference.
Try removing the 0.1mF capacitor (C2), and see how the sounds and bounce effects change. Next, remove the sound energy demonstration container from the speaker and instead lay your hand on it for the best setting, you can feel the speaker vibrate.
Don’t eat anything you placed into the sound energy demonstration container.
The bouncing salt/ glitter/balls show that sound has energy!
Typically the E keys and the keys near them give the best effects, but your results may vary.
Lay the speaker on the extra 3-snap and 6-snap wires, to elevate it. Be sure speaker lays flat.
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Tube
Flexible sheet
Container base
Speaker
Sound Energy Demonstration
Container Assembly
(Adult supervision recommended)
Pour salt, glitter, or small foam/candy balls into the container, but do not cover the bottom.
Lay the speaker on the extra 3-snap and 6-snap wires, to elevate it. Be sure speaker lays flat.
Part B: Optical Version
Modify the circuit to be this one, which has the
photoresistor (RP) instead of the adjustable
resistor (RV).
Turn on both slide switches and wave your hand
over the photoresistor (RP), to change how much
light shines into it. The sound changes as your
hand adjusts the light. At some hand positions the
salt/glitter/balls will vibrate and bounce or dance
around in the container; find the hand position that
gives the best effects. Press some keyboard keys
to combine their sounds with the photoresistor
sound. Try moving to an area with more or less
light, and wave your hand over the photoresistor
again.
Don’t eat anything you placed into the sound
energy demonstration container.
How does this work? There is a small range of frequency at which the sound waves resonate with the mechanical construction characteristics of the speaker, and cause the speaker to vibrate noticeably. The speaker’s vibration creates changes in air pressure. The sound energy demonstration container covers the speaker and traps the air pressure changes, which then push/pull the flexible sheet up/down quickly, making the salt/glitter/balls bounce. Raising the speaker and container by placing them on the snap wires (or holding them) makes the vibrations more noticeable, because otherwise the table can dampen the vibrations.
-26-
This project requires stereo headphones or a stereo speaker; neither is included with this set, but this set does include a stereo cable to facilitate connection to your stereo speaker.
Build the circuit as shown. Connect your own headphones or stereo speaker to the audio jack (JA). Turn on the slide switch (S1).
Press keys on the keyboard (U26) and listen to the sound on your headphones or stereo speaker. Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) for most comfortable sound level (turn to the left for higher volume, most of RV3’s range will be very low volume), and then move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to vary the amplitude to each ear.
Project 14
Keyboard in Stereo
Project 15
Optical Theremin in Stereo
Headphones or Stereo Speaker
(not included)
In stereo, sound is produced on several speakers with varying amplitude on each. This gives the impression that the sound is coming from different directions.
WARNING: Headphones performance varies, so use caution. Start with
low volume, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
Use the preceding circuit, but modify it by adding the photoresistor (RP) and the parts next to it.
Press keys on the keyboard (U26) and wave your hand over the photoresistor (to adjust the amount of light shining on it) while listening to the sound on your headphones or stereo speaker. Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) for most comfortable sound level (turn to the left for higher volume, most of RV3’s range will be very low volume), and move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to vary the amplitude to each ear. There may not be any sound if there is too much or too little light on the photoresistor.
Close your eyes and have a friend vary the light to the photoresistor and moving the lever on the adjustable resistor. See if you get an impression of the sound changing direction.
WARNING: Headphones
performance varies, so use caution. Start with low volume, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
Headphones or Stereo Speaker
(not included)
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Project 16
Light & Sound
Project 17
See Saw
Build the circuit as shown; note that a 2-snap wire is placed directly under the speaker (SP2). Turn off the left slide switch (S1) and turn on the right slide switch. Press keys on the keyboard (U26) to make sound on the speaker (SP2) and light on the color LED (D8). If you hold a key down then the color LED will change colors.
Now turn on the left slide switch. If there is light on the photoresistor (RP), or if you press keys on the keyboard, then there will be sound from the speaker and light from the color LED. Wave your hand over the photoresistor to change the sound, or turn off left S1 to disable photoresistor control. Holding a key down will also make the color LED change colors.
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Turn on the slide switch (S1), and move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) around. The pitch of the sound will be lowest with the lever in the middle position, and higher with it set to the left or right.
You can replace the 5.1kW resistor (R3) with the 100W resistor (R1) or 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3), but there may be no sound at some settings.
Project 18
Light, Sound, & Motion
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 470mF capacitor (C5) with the 1mF capacitor (C7). The color LED (D8) is brighter now, but may not be changing colors.
Let’s add motion to the preceding circuit. Modify the circuit to match this one. Turn off the left slide switch (S1) and turn on the right slide switch. Lay the speaker (SP2) down on unused 2-snap and 6-snap wires (to elevate it slightly off the table), be sure it is laying flat, and place the sound energy demonstration container over it (the container should have been assembled as per instructions on page 4). Pour some salt, glitter, small foam or candy balls of 0.1 inch diameter or less (not included) or similar into the container, but not enough to cover the bottom.
Press the keys on the keyboard to make sound and light the color LED (D8). For some keys the salt/glitter/balls will vibrate and bounce or dance around in the container, find the key that gives the best effects. Most keys will create little or no vibration. For the best key, adjust the TUNE knob on the keyboard for best effects. The color LED will not be very bright.
Now turn on the left slide switch and wave your hand over the photoresistor (RP), to change how much light shines into it. The sound changes as your hand adjusts the light, and the color LED will light if there is bright light on the photoresistor. At some hand positions the salt/glitter/balls will vibrate
and bounce or dance around in the container; find the hand position that gives the best effects. Press some keyboard keys to combine their sounds with the photoresistor sound. Try moving to an area with more or less light, and wave your hand over the photoresistor again.
Experiment with different materials in the container and see which give the most impressive results. Our engineers found that 0.1” round non pareils (decorative candy sprinkles) work best.
Try lifting the container a little higher above the speaker with your hands, and see how much this affects the bounce height; see where you get the best effects. Try it at best key or RV setting, and at other keys/settings. Also, placing the speaker directly on the table (without the 3-snap and 6­snap under it) should reduce the vibration a little, but you can try it to see the difference.
Add the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) over the keyboard (U26) at base grid locations D4-F4 (on level 3) and see how the circuit changed, especially when pressing the green keys.
Project 19
Brighter Light, Sound, & Motion
Lay the speaker on the extra 3-snap and 6-snap wires, to elevate it. Be sure speaker lays flat.
Place the sound energy demonstration container over the speaker. Pour salt, glitter, or small foam/candy balls (not included) into the container, but do not cover the bottom.
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Project 20
Keyboard with Voice Changer
Project 21
Optical Keyboard
with Voice Changer
Project 22
This circuit is similar to the preceding one, but adds optical control. Modify the preceding circuit by adding the photoresistor (RP) and the parts next to it.
When making your recording, wave your hand over the photoresistor to change the sound recorded, in addition to pressing keys. The photoresistor may have no effect if there is too much or too little light on it, so adjust the light on it if necessary.
Use either of the preceding circuits, but replace the 3-snap wire that is next to the speaker (SP2) with the color LED (D8, “+” to the left). Now when you press S2 to play the recording, the sound will not be as sound, but the color LED will be flashing.
Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to mid-range, turn OFF the left slide switch (S1), and then turn on the right slide switch. Now turn on the left slide switch, you hear a beep signaling that you are recording. Press keys on the keyboard (U26) until you hear a beep (signaling that recording time is over), then turn off the left slide switch to exit recording mode. Push the press switch (S2) to play back the recording, and turn the knob on RV3 to change the playback speed. You can play your recording faster or slower by changing the setting on RV3.
The keyboard overhangs the base grid, so be sure the connections to it stay secure as you are pressing keys.
Recording time is 6 seconds at normal speed, but this can be changed depending on the setting of RV3 when you are making the recording. You won’t hear the notes when you are pressing the keys during recording; you only hear them during playback.
Keyboard Voice
Changer & Light
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Project 24 Sound Controlled Light
If the adjustable resistor’s lever is set too low then the color LED will never turn on; if it is set too high then the color LED will never turn off.
+
+
Project 23
Voice Changer with Echo
Build the circuit as shown. Turn on the switch (S1) and set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) so the color LED (D8) is just off. Talk loud into the microphone (X1) or clap loudly near it to activate the color LED. Try a long loud “ahhhhhhhh” directly into the microphone; this can make the color LED change patterns.
The color LED may not be very bright, so this circuit works best in a dimly lit room.
Build the circuit as shown; note that the microphone (X1) is covering a 2-snap wire, and that the 5.1kW resistor (R3) is a tight fit over the adjustable resistor (RV) but does fit. Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to mid-range, set the adjustable resistor (RV) lever towards R3, turn OFF the left slide switch (S1), and then turn on the right slide switch.
Now turn on the left slide switch, you hear a beep signaling that you are recording. Talk into the microphone (X1) until you hear a beep (signaling that recording time is over), then turn off the left slide switch to exit recording mode. Now move the lever on RV to set the echo level, turn the knob on RV3 to change the playback speed, and push the press switch (S2) to play back the recording. You can play your recording faster or slower by changing the setting on RV3, and with more or less echo by changing the setting on RV.
Recording time is 6 seconds at normal speed, but this can be changed depending on the setting of RV3 when you are making the recording. RV should be set for no echo when making a recording.
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Project 25
Low Pitch Keyboard
Project 26
Lower Pitch Keyboard
Project 28
Echo Speed Changer
Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to mid-range, turn OFF the left slide switch (S1), and then turn on the right slide switch. Set the echo level using adjustable resistor (RV). Now turn on the left slide switch, you hear a beep signaling that you are recording. Talk into the microphone (X1) until you hear a beep (signaling that recording time is over), then turn off the left slide switch to exit recording mode. Push the press switch (S2) to play back the recording, and turn the knob on RV3 to change the playback speed. You can play your recording faster or slower by changing the setting on RV3, and with more or less echo by changing the setting on RV.
Recording time is 6 seconds at normal speed, but this can be changed depending on the setting of RV3 when you are making the recording. C2 is only used to support RV, so is only connected on one side.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 470mF capacitor (C5, “+” on left). Press one of the green keys and hold it down; all you should hear is a click every few seconds.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the
0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the 1mF capacitor (C7). The pitch of the green keys is much lower now. See how the blue and green keys sound when pressed together.
Build the circuit as shown. Turn off the left slide switch and turn on the right slide switch (S1), and press some of the green keys. Now turn on the left slide switch to add the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) to the circuit, and press some green keys again. The pitch (frequency) of the sound is lower now. The blue keys will not be affected.
Compare the sound for blue and green keys at the same place on the keyboard (such as
C to C, F#
to F#, or B to B). Turn the TUNE knob to align a pair of blue/green together, or to take them out of alignment. Experiment to see some interesting effects.
Adding the 0.1mF capacitor lowers the frequency (pitch) of the sound produced by the green keys, and makes them similar to the blue keys.
Project 27
Very Low Pitch Keyboard
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Project 29
Keyboard Echo
Project 30
Lower Pitch
Keyboard Echo
Project 31
Optical Keyboard Echo
Project 32
Low Pitch
Optical
Keyboard Echo
Use the preceding circuit, but add the
0.1mF capacitor (C2) or the 1mF capacitor (C7) across the “CAP” and “(-)” snaps on the keyboard using a 1-snap wire. The pitch of the green keys is lower now.
Build the circuit as shown, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Press keys on the keyboard (U26) and hear the sound with echo on the speaker (SP2). RV adjusts the amount of echo, and RV3 adjusts the volume. Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts.
Build the circuit as shown, and turn on both slide switches (S1). Press keys on the keyboard (U26) or shine light into the photoresistor (RP) to hear sound with echo on the speaker (SP2). RV adjusts the amount of echo, and RV3 adjusts the volume. Wave your hand over the photoresistor to adjust the pitch of the “optical” sound. Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts. There may not be any sound if there is too much or too little light on the photo­resistor.
Use the preceding circuit, but add the
0.1mF capacitor (C2) or the 1mF capacitor (C7) across the “CAP” and “(-)” snaps on the keyboard. The pitch of the green keys is lower now.
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In this project you will listen to the keyboard sound both with and without echo, at the same time (in stereo). This project requires stereo headphones or a stereo speaker; neither is included with this set, but this set does include a stereo cable to help connect to your stereo speaker.
Build the circuit as shown; note that the 5.1kW resistor (R3) is a tight fit over the adjustable resistor (RV) but does fit. Connect your own headphones or stereo speaker to the audio jack (JA). Turn on the slide switch (S1).
Press keys on the keyboard (U26), and listen to the sound on your headphones or stereo speaker. One ear (or side of the speaker) hears the keyboard directly, set RV3 for most comfortable sound level (turn to the left for higher volume, most of RV3’s range will be very low volume). The other ear (or side of the speaker) hears the sound with echo; adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts.
If the echo sound is not loud enough then add the 1mF capacitor (C7) next the echo IC (U28) as shown here:
For best effects, try to set RV3 so that the sound level is about equal on both sides of the headphones/speaker.
Headphones or Stereo
Speaker (not included)
WARNING: Headphones performance varies, so use caution. Start with
low volume, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
Project 33
The 100W and 5.1kW resistors (R1 & R3) make the keyboard signal smaller, otherwise it would be distorted by the amplifier in the echo IC.
-34-
Keyboard Echo with
Stereo Effects
Headphones or Stereo Speaker (not included)
The 0.1mF capacitor (C2) is being used as a spacer (a 1-snap wire) to support other components.
WARNING: Headphones performance varies, so use caution. Start with
low volume, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
The project is similar to the preceding one, but adds optical control using the photoresistor (RP). Rebuild the preceding circuit to match this one. Follow the preceding circuit’s instructions, except also turn on the slide switch next to the photoresistor, and then wave your hand over the photoresistor to change the sound.
The keyboard overhangs the base grid, so be sure the connections to it stay secure as you are pressing keys.
In the preceding circuit you could add the 1mF capacitor (C7) to make the echo sound louder, but do not have enough parts to add it to this circuit.
Build the circuit, turn on the slide switch (S1), and push the press switch (S2). The color LED (D8) is on for a while and then shuts off. Turning S1 off and back on will not get the light back on. Push S2 to get the light back on. If desired, place the egg attachment on the color LED.
RV is used as a fixed resistor (50kW); so moving its control lever will have no effect.
Project 34
Optical Echo in Stereo
1
Project 35
Color Short Light
The light is on while the 470mF capacitor (C5) is charging, and shuts off when the capacitor gets fully charged. Pressing S2 discharges the capacitor. The charge-up time is set by the capacitor’s value and resistors R3 and RV.
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Project 36
Keyboard with Optical Theremin
Project 37
Keyboard with
Optical
Theremin (II)
Project 39
Adjustable Dual
Range Keyboard (II)
Project 40
Adjustable Dual
Range Keyboard (III)
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 470mF capacitor (C5, “+” on left). You will hear a click at regular intervals. The interval depends on the RV setting, it could be several per second or many seconds apart.
Build the circuit as shown and turn on the slide switch (S1). Press keys on the keyboard (U26) and move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to change the sound. Push the press switch (S2) to change the pitch of the green keys. There may not be any sound at some settings on RV.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the 1mF capacitor (C7). The pitch of the green keys is lower when S2 is pressed.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 0.1mF capacitor (C2). The pitch of the green keys is higher when S2 is pressed.
Build the circuit as shown and turn on the slide switch (S1). Press keys on the keyboard (U26), wave your hand over the photoresistor (RP) to adjust the amount of light shining on it, and listen to the sound. Push the press switch (S2) to change the pitch of the green keys. There may not be any sound if there is too much or too little light on the photoresistor.
Project 38
Adjustable Dual Range Keyboard
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Project 41
Your Music with Echo
MP3 player
Project 42
Your Music with Echo and Light
MP3 player
This circuit is similar to the preceding one, except it adds light and has lower sound volume. Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Connect a music device (not included) to the audio jack (JA) as shown, and start music on it. Set the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) all the way to the left (for loudest sound).
Set the volume control on your music device for a comfortable sound level, and adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). Try this at different RV settings. The color LED (D8) will light when the sound is loud enough.
Try with different music, or with the touch-tones on your cell phone.
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Connect a music device (not included, but this set does include a cable to connect it) to the audio jack (JA) as shown, and start music on it.
Set the volume control on your music device for a comfortable sound level, and adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV); move the lever up for more echo or down for less echo. Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts.
Try with different music, or with the touch-tones on your cell phone.
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Use the circuit from project 43, but replace the 100W resistor (R1) with the color LED (D8, “+” to the left). Now when you press S2 to play the recording, the color LED will be flashing.
Project 43
Your Music Speed Changer
MP3 player
Project 44
Your Music
Speed Changer
(II)
Project 46 Sound On Light
Project 45
Your Music
Speed Changer
(III)
Build the circuit as shown. Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to mid-range, turn OFF the left slide switch (S1), and then turn on the right slide switch. Connect a music device (not included) to the audio jack (JA) as shown, and start music on it.
Now turn on the left slide switch, you hear a beep signaling that recording has started. Wait until you hear a beep (signaling that recording time is over), then turn off the left slide switch to exit recording mode. Push the press switch (S2) to play back the recording, and turn the knob on RV3 to change the playback speed. You can play your recording faster or slower by changing the setting on RV3. Try with different music, or with the touch­tones on your cell phone.
To adjust the volume, adjust it on your music device before recording, or see the next project.
Recording time is 6 seconds at normal speed, but this can be changed depending on the setting of RV3 when you are making the recording.
Use the preceding circuit, but
replace the 100W resistor (R1)
with a 3-snap wire to make the
sound louder, or with the 5.1kW
resistor (R3) to make the sound
quieter.
Build the circuit as shown and turn on the slide switch (S1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) so the color LED (D8) just shuts off. Talk loudly into the microphone (X1), blow on it, or clap near it to make the LED flicker on.
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Project 47
Super Optical Keyboard Echo
Project 48
Softer Optical
Keyboard
Echo
This circuit is shown on the Snap Circuits
®
Sound box cover; use
that picture to help in building it.
Use the preceding circuit, but remove the 1mF capacitor (C7) from the circuit, or swap it with the 0.1mF capacitor (C2), or replace it with the 470mF capacitor (C5). The sound volume is different now.
Build the circuit as shown. Turn off the left slide switch (S1), and turn on the right slide switch. Press some of the keyboard keys and listen to the echo. Move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to change the amount of echo (up is maximum echo, down is no echo). Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts. The color LED (D8) will light when any green key is pressed, but will not be very bright.
Now turn on the left slide switch to add the photoresistor (RP) to the circuit. Wave your hand over the photoresistor to change the sound. Try it with different levels of light shining on the photoresistor, and at different RV settings.
Project 49 Reflection Detector
Build the circuit and turn the slide switch (S1). Take it into a dimly lit room, so that the color LED (D8) is flashing but there is no sound.
Now hold a mirror directly over the color LED and photoresistor (RP). When the mirror reflects the LED’s light into the photoresistor, a tone will be produced, signaling that a reflection was detected. The tone will change as the LED flashes.
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Project 50
Super Optical
Keyboard Echo for
Headphones
Headphones or Stereo
Speaker (not included)
WARNING: Headphones performance varies, so use caution. Start with
low volume, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
Build the circuit as shown. This project requires stereo headphones or a stereo speaker (neither is included). Turn off the left slide switch (S1), and turn on the right slide switch. Press some of the keyboard keys and listen to the echo. Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) for most comfortable sound level (turn to the left for higher volume, most of RV3’s range will be very low volume). Move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to change the amount of echo (up is maximum echo, down is no echo). Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts. The color LED (D8) will light when any green key is pressed, but will not be very bright.
Now turn on the left slide switch to add the photoresistor (RP) to the circuit. Wave your hand over the photoresistor to change the sound. Try it with different levels of light shining on the photoresistor, and at different RV settings.
Note that the “R” snap on the audio jack is not snapped or connected, so there will not be any sound from the “R” side of your headphones/speaker.
You can replace the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the 1mF capacitor (C7) to lower the pitch of the green keys.
-40-
Sound is a variation in air pressure created by a mechanical vibration. For a demonstration of this, take a stereo speaker in your home (the larger the better), lay it on the floor, and start some music.
1. Place your hand on your stereo speaker and turn up the volume. Do you feel the speaker vibrate?
2. Now place a piece of paper on the speaker; if the sound is loud enough, you will see the paper vibrate.
3. Take a balloon (not included) and hold it on the speaker. You should feel it vibrating with the sound.
Get your parents’ permission for this part, because it could get messy. Place the sound energy demonstration container (which should have been assembled as per instructions on page 4) on the center of the speaker. Pour some salt, glitter, small foam or candy balls (0.1 inch diameter or less) or similar into the container, but not enough to cover the bottom. Slowly increase the music volume. When the music is at certain frequencies, the salt/glitter/balls will bounce around in the container.
Stereo Speaker (not included)
If you have a stereo speaker (not included), then you can also do the preceding demonstration using the sounds from your keyboard (U26). Build the circuit as shown, and connect your stereo speaker to it. Start with the left slide switch (S1) turned off and the right switch turned on. Press keys to find the one that gives the best effects with the 3 experiments in the preceding project, then turn the tune knob on the keyboard to see if you can make the effects even better.
Now turn on the left slide switch to add the photoresistor (RP) to the circuit. Move your hand over the photoresistor to adjust how much light shines into it, to change the sound to give the best effects for the 3 experiments in the preceding project.
Project 51 Sound is Air Pressure
Project 52 Sound is Air Pressure -
Keyboard
Your Snap Circuits® speaker (SP2) is not powerful enough to use for this, unless using the sound energy demonstration container as done in project 13.
-41-
Project 53 Brightness Adjuster
Project 54
Brightness
Limiters
Resistors are used to control or limit the flow of electricity in a circuit. Higher resistor values reduce the flow of electricity in a circuit.
In this circuit, the adjustable resistor is used to adjust the LED brightness, to limit the current so the batteries last longer, and to protect the LED from being damaged by the batteries.
What is Resistance? Take your hands and rub them together very fast. Your hands should feel warm. The friction between your hands converts your effort into heat. Resistance is the electrical friction between an electric current and the material it is flowing through.
The adjustable resistor can be set for as low as 200W, or as high as 50,000W (50kW).
Project 55
Vary the brightness of the color LED (D8) using the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3).
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 3-snap with one of the yellow resistors in this set (R1 or R3). Observe how each changes the LED brightness at different settings for the adjustable resistor.
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1). Move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to vary the brightness of the light from the color LED (D8). If desired, you may place the egg LED attachment on the LED.
Big Brightness
Adjuster
The 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) can be set for as low as 200W, or as high as 500,000W (500kW), so the color LED will only light on a small portion of RV3’s range.
The R1 resistor (100W) will have little effect, because the adjustable resistor (RV) will always dominate it. Resistor R3 (5.1kW) will dominate when RV is set for low values, but have little effect when RV is set at high values.
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Photo Brightness
Adjuster
Project 56
Amplified Photo
Brightness
Adjuster
Project 57
Amplified Big
Brightness Adjuster
Project 58
Vary the brightness of the color LED (D8) by varying the amount of light shining on the photoresistor (RP).
Vary the brightness of the color LED (D8) by varying the amount of light shining on the photoresistor (RP). Notice that you have to cover the photoresistor to make the color LED dim.
Some materials, such as Cadmium Sulfide, change their resistance when light shines on them. Electronic parts made with these light-sensitive materials are called photoresistors. Their resistance decreases as the light becomes brighter.
The resistance of your Snap Circuits®photoresistor changes from nearly infinite in total darkness to about 1kW when bright light shines directly on it. Note that a black plastic case partially shields the Cadmium Sulfide part.
Photoresistors are used in applications such as streetlamps, which come on as it gets dark due to night or a severe storm.
In the preceding circuit the photoresistor directly controlled the current through the color LED. In this circuit the current through the photoresistor is amplified by the NPN transistor (Q2), so the light on the photoresistor must get very dark before the color LED brightness is reduced.
Vary the brightness of the color LED (D8) using the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3). The brightness won’t change a lot; you may need to view it in a dark room to notice the difference. Placing the egg attachment on the color LED may help to notice the brightness difference.
Compare this circuit to project 55 (Big Brightness Adjuster). In project 55 the color LED was dark for most of RV3’s range. In this circuit the NPN transistor (Q2) amplifies the current through RV3, so the color LED is bright for most of RV3’s range.
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Project 59 Cup & String Communication
How it works: When you talk into the cup, the cup bottom vibrates back and forth from your sound waves. The vibrations travel through the string by pulling the string back and forth, and then make the bottom of the second cup vibrate just like the first cup did, producing sound waves that the listener can hear. If the string is tight, the received sound waves will be just like the ones sent, and the listener hears what the talker said.
Telephones work the same way, except that electric current replaces the string. In radio, the changing current from a microphone is used to encode electromagnetic waves sent through the air, then decoded in a listening receiver.
Cups
String
Pencil
Tiny hole
Knot
String threaded through cup bottom
Taut string
Sound, radio signals, and light all travel through air like waves travel through water. To help you understand how they are like waves, you can make a cup & string telephone. This common trick requires some household materials (not included with this kit): two large plastic or paper cups, some non-stretchable thread or kite string, and a sharp pencil. Adult supervision is recommended.
Take the cups and punch a tiny hole in the center of the bottom of each with a sharp pencil (or something similar). Take a piece of string (use between 25 and 100 feet) and thread each end through each hole. Either knot or tape the string so it cannot go back through the hole when the string is stretched. Now with two people, have each one take one of the cups and spread apart until the string is tight. The key is to make the string tight, so it’s best to keep the string in a straight line. Now if one of you talks into one of the cups while the other listens, the second person should be able to hear what the first person says.
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Project 60
MP3 player
Project 61
Low Power
Audio
Amplifier
Project 62
Audio Amplifier with L/R Control
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Connect a music device (not included) to the audio jack (JA) as shown, and start music on it. Set the volume using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). This is a simple amplifier, so the sound may not be very loud.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace one of the battery holders (B1) with a 3-snap wire. The circuit works the same but is not as loud now.
Build the circuit, and connect the 2-snap wire between the B1 battery holders last. Connect a music device (not included) to the audio jack (JA) as shown, and start music on it. Turn on both of the slide switches (S1), and set the volume using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). This is a simple amplifier, so the sound may not be very loud.
Turn off either of the slide switches to shut off the left or right outputs of your music device. If the left and right outputs of your music signal are the same, then turning off one switch will reduce the volume a little.
When finished, remove the 2-snap wire between the battery holders to turn off the circuit.
Audio Amplifier
MP3 player
This circuit does not have an on/off switch, because the slide switches are being used to control the music device outputs.
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Project 63
Your Music without Echo
MP3 player
Project 64
Low Power
Your Music
without
Echo
Here we are using the amplifier inside the echo IC (U28), without adding any echo effects to the music.
Project 65
Adjustable Music without Echo
MP3 player
Modify the project 63 circuit to include a volume control, the adjustable resistor (RV). It works the same way, but adjust the volume using the lever on RV.
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Connect a music device (not included, but this set does include a cable to connect it) to the audio jack (JA) as shown, and start music on it.
Set the volume control on your music device for a comfortable sound level.
Use the preceding circuit, but remove the 1mF capacitor (C7) from the circuit, or replace it with the 0.1mF capacitor (C2). The volume is not as loud now.
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Project 66 L/R Music Amplifier
MP3 player
The left and right outputs of your music device are intended to control separate speakers, but are combined here because you only have one Snap Circuits
®
speaker.
This circuit is similar to project 58 (Amplified Big Brightness Adjuster), but the color LED will not be quite as bright. In this circuit both the controlling current (through RV3) and controlled current (through R1) also flow through the color LED, reducing the amplification.
Vary the brightness of the color LED (D8) using the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3).
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Connect a music device (not included) to the audio jack (JA) as shown, and start music on it. Use the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to adjust the volume for the left and right outputs of your music device; both won’t be loud at the same time.
Project 67 Another Transistor Amplifier
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Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). The resistance of the 5.1kW resistor (R3) and microphone (X1) determine the pitch (frequency) of the tone.
Push the press switch (S2) to bypass the microphone, and the tone changes.
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). The color LED (D8) is dimly lit, because the resistance of the microphone (X1) keeps the current low.
Push the press switch (S2) to bypass the microphone, and the LED gets bright.
You can also try replacing the microphone with the 5.1kW resistor (R3), to see how their resistances compare.
Project 69
Microphone
Resistance - Audio
Project 68
Microphone
Resistance - LED
The microphone changes resistance when exposed to changes in air pressure, such as from sound waves or blowing on it. Talking into the microphone or blowing on it will change the LED brightness, but probably not enough for you to notice the difference.
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Project 70
Time Light
Project 71
Time Light (II)
The 470mF capacitor (C5) can store electricity. This timer circuit works by slowly charging up C5; the color LED goes out when C5 gets full. If you replace C5 with C2 or C7, the LED will go out almost immediately because these values can’t store nearly as much electricity.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the adjustable resistor (RV) with the 5.1kW resistor (R3). The circuit works the same way, but the color LED can only light over a small part of RV3’s range, and it gets dim faster.
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Push the press switch (S2) and set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) so the color LED (D8) just comes on, then release the press switch. The color LED will be bright for a while and slowly get dim and go out. Push the press switch again to reset the color LED’s timer.
You can change RV3’s setting to keep the color LED on much longer. The adjustable resistor (RV) is used here as a fixed resistor (of 50kW), so moving its lever will have no effect.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the adjustable resistor (RV) with the 5.1kW resistor (R3). The circuit works the same way, but the color LED gets dim faster.
Project 72
Easier Adjust
Time Light
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1) Push and release the press switch (S2). Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) so the color LED (D8) is on and bright, then wait for it to get dim and go out. Push the press switch again to reset the color LED’s timer. The brighter the color LED starts, the faster it gets dim.
The adjustable resistor (RV) is used here as a fixed resistor (of 50kW), so moving its lever will have no effect.
Project 73
Small Adjust
Time Light
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Project 74
Day Light
Project 75 Lower Day Light
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Set the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) all the way to the right. If the room light is bright then the color LED (D8) should be off. Cover the photoresistor (RP) or take the circuit into a dark room, and the color LED should turn on.
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Blow into the microphone (X1), and hear it on the speaker (SP2).
This circuit is like the preceding one, but can be used in darker rooms. Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) so the color LED (D8) just gets bright. Now when you block the light to the photo­resistor (RP), the color LED will turn off.
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) so the color LED (D8) just gets bright. Now when you block the light to the photoresistor (RP), the color LED will turn off. If the color LED cannot be turned on or off at any RV setting, then change your room lighting.
Project 76
Dark Light
Project 77
Blow Noise
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Listen to the
Light Change
Project 78
The color LED actually contains separate red, green, and blue lights, with a microcircuit controlling them. Each time the LED changes colors, the voltage across it changes. Each time the voltage changes, you hear a “click” from the speaker.
Project 79
Adjustable Listen to
the Light Change
Project 80
Bright or Loud?
Turn on the slide switch (S1). The color LED (D8) changes colors in a repeating pattern, and you hear a clicking sound from the speaker (SP2).
Turn on the slide switch (S1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) for different brightness levels on the color LED (D8). The color LED is bright on a more limited range of RV settings than in the preceding project, and the speaker (SP2) is not nearly as loud.
Now push the press switch (S2); the LED is dimmer but the sound is louder.
Turn on the slide switch (S1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) for different brightness levels on the color LED (D8). You also hear a clicking sound from the speaker (SP2).
The transistor (Q2) amplifies the LED current, to make the speaker (SP2) sound louder.
When S2 is off the transistor (Q2) has little effect, and the circuit is similar to project
46. With S2 pressed, the transistor acts as an amplifier, increasing the current through the speaker. The LED current is lower in this arrangement.
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Project 81
LED Keyboard Control
Project 82
LED
Keyboard
Control (II)
Project 83
Photo LED
Keyboard
Control
Use the project 81 circuit, but replace the 5.1kW resistor (R3) with the photoresistor (RP). Wave your hand over the photoresistor or adjust the room lighting to vary the amount of light shining on the photoresistor, and listen to the sounds. You can also press keys on the keyboard (U26) to add more sounds.
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). You hear a sound pattern that is synchronized with the color LED (D8) flashing. You can press keys on the keyboard (U26) to change the sound.
Use the preceding circuit, but remove the 5.1kW resistor (R3). Now there is only sound when you press keys on the keyboard, and the sounds for some keys are different.
Modify the project 81 circuit to match this one. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to vary the sounds. You can also press keys on the keyboard (U26) to add more sounds.
Project 84
Adjustable
LED Keyboard
Control
The color LED turns off briefly when it changes colors. Here the color LED controls the keyboard through the transistor (Q2), so when the color LED turns off, the keyboard sound is also turned off. This produces the sound effects you hear.
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Build the circuit as shown. Place the circuit in a quiet room. Connect the speaker (SP2) using the red & black jumper wires, then hold it away from the microphone (X1). Turn on the slide switch (S1). Talk into the microphone or press keys on the keyboard (U26), and listen the echo on the speaker. Adjust the volume using the knob on RV3. Adjust the amount of echo using the lever on RV; move the lever up for more echo or down for less echo. Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts.
Note: You must hold the speaker away from the microphone or the circuit may self-oscillate due to feedback. You also need a quiet room, with low background noise.
Project 85
Capacitor Keyboard Control
Project 86
Capacitor
Keyboard
Control (II)
Adding the capacitor changes the range of tones produced by the keyboard.
Project 87 Voice & Keyboard Echo
Build the circuit, and turn both slide switches (S1). You hear a sound pattern that is synchronized with the color LED (D8) flashing. Move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to change the sound produced. You can also press keys on the keyboard (U26) to change the sound.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 0.1mF capacitor (C2). The sounds are different now.
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Build the circuit as shown. Place the circuit in a quiet room. Connect the speaker (SP2) using the red & black jumper wires, then hold it away from the microphone. Turn on the slide switch (S1). Talk into the microphone or press keys on the keyboard (U26), and listen the echo on the speaker. Adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV); move the lever up for more echo or down for less echo. Try this at different RV settings, because the effects are very interesting with both high and low echo amounts.
The color LED (D8) lights when keys are pressed but will be dim. It is easier to see in a dimly lit room.
Note: You must hold the speaker away from the microphone or the circuit may self­oscillate due to feedback. You also need a quiet room, with low background noise.
Project 88 LED Voice Keyboard Echo
Project 89
Photo LED
Keyboard
Echo
Project 90
Photo LED
Keyboard
Project 91 Audio Dark Light
Use the preceding circuit, but remove the adjustable resistor (RV) from the circuit. Press keys on the keyboard (U26), and vary the light to the photoresistor (RP) to adjust the volume. There won’t be any echo effects now.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the microphone (X1) with the photoresistor (RP). As you are pressing keys on the keyboard (U26), vary the amount of light shining into the photoresistor to change the sound. Try it using different settings on the adjustable resistor (RV).
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Set the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to the right until the color LED (D8) is off. Cover the photoresistor (RP) or take the circuit into a dark room, and the color LED should turn on, and you hear clicking from the speaker (SP2). The clicking will not be very loud.
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Project 92
Oscillator
This circuit is an oscillator, because it produces a repetitive electrical signal on its own. You hear it as sound waves from the speaker. The signal is produced by a circuit inside the keyboard module, but may be controlled using your Snap Circuits® resistors and capacitors, and the keys on the keyboard. The keys are actually connecting different resistors inside the keyboard, similar to the 5.1kW resistor (R3).
Project 93
Oscillator (II)
Project 94
Oscillator (III)
Project 95
Oscillator (IV)
Project 96
Oscillator (V)
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 0.1mF capacitor (C2). Do you hear anything? The circuit is producing a high frequency tone, which may be too high for your ears to hear, especially if you are older.
Now remove the 0.1mF capacitor from the circuit. This makes the tone even higher frequency, and you probably won’t hear anything now. Dogs have better high frequency hearing, so maybe your dog can hear it.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 5.1kW resistor (R3) with the 100W resistor (R1). The frequency of the sound is higher now, and you hear several clicks a second.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 470mF capacitor (C5) with the 1mF capacitor (C7). The frequency of the sound is much higher now, and you hear a continuous tone.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 470mF capacitor (C5). The frequency of the sound is now so low that you just hear a click every few seconds.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the 1mF capacitor (C7). The frequency (pitch) of the sound is lower now.
Build the circuit, and turn the slide switch (S1). You hear a tone. You can also press keys on the keyboard (U26) to change the sound.
Project 98
Left Right Bright Light
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) around. The color LED (D8) is bright if the lever is to the far left or far right, and dim if the lever is in the middle.
Project 97
Oscillator (VI)
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Project 99
Adjustable Oscillator
Project 100
Adjustable
Oscillator
(II)
Project 101
Adjustable
Oscillator
(III)
Project 102
Adjustable
Oscillator
(IV)
Project 103 Water Detector
Use the preceding circuit, but remove the 470mF capacitor (C5) from the circuit. See the range of sounds that this circuit can produce.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 470mF capacitor (C5). You can hear a clicking sound for a small part of RV3’s adjustment range.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the 1mF capacitor (C7). The frequency (pitch) of the sound is lower now.
Build the circuit, and turn the slide switch (S1). Turn the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to see the range of sounds that can be produced; there will only be sound for a small part of RV3’s range. You can also press keys on the keyboard (U26) to change the sound.
Build the circuit, and initially leave the loose ends of the red & black jumper wires unconnected. Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing happens. Now place the loose ends of the red & black jumper wires into a cup of water, without their snaps touching each other. The color LED (D8) should be on now, indicating that you have detected water!
RV’s 500kW adjustment range is wide, and the oscillator circuit inside the keyboard (U26) won’t function over RV’s full range. At some settings the circuit may function, but produce too high of frequency for your ears to hear.
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Project 104
Clicker
The color LED turns off briefly when it changes colors. What you hear in the speaker is the change in current as the LED turns on or off.
Build the circuit, and turn the slide switch (S1). The color LED (D8) is flashing, and you hear a clicking sound.
Modify the preceding circuit to be this one, which adds echo effects. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and push the press switch (S2) to see the color LED (D8) flashing and hear a clicking sound. When you release the press switch, the color LED shuts off but you hear echo effects. Use the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to set the echo level.
Project 105
Clicker with Echo
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Project 106
3V Audio Amplifier
MP3 player
Build the circuit as shown, and place it in a quiet room. Connect the speaker (SP2) using the red & black jumper wires, then hold it away from the microphone (X1). Turn on the slide switch (S1). Talk into the microphone, and listen the echo on the speaker, and see it on the color LED (D8). Adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV); move the lever up for more echo or down for less echo. Try this at different RV settings. You may need to talk loud directly into the microphone to make the color LED bright.
Note: You must hold the speaker away from the microphone or the circuit may self-oscillate due to feedback. You also need a quiet room, with low background noise.
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Connect a music device (not included) to the audio jack (JA) as shown, and start music on it. Turn the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to adjust the volume.
Project 107
Mini Music Player
To demonstrate how much the transistor was amplifying the sound, connect the speaker directly to the audio jack, as shown here, and start music on your music device. If you don’t hear anything then hold the speaker next to your ear, or set the volume control on your music device higher.
MP3 player
Project 108
Voice Echo with Light
The transistor (Q2) amplifies the current from your music device, to make the sound louder. The resistors (R1 & RV3) and capacitors (C5 & C7) condition the signal to minimize distortion.
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Use the preceding circuit, but add the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) over the keyboard (U26) using a 1-snap wire, as shown. Press a blue and a green key at the same time, while turning the TUNE knob. Watch the colors on the color LED (D8), and listen to the sound.
Normally the color LED doesn’t work when you connect it backwards, but in this circuit it does. The changing voltage produced by the keyboard actually goes both ways (positive and negative), so here the color LED will work in either direction.
Project 112
Backwards Color
Sound
Use any of the 3 preceding circuits, but reverse the direction of the color LED (D8). The circuit works the same, but the sound may not be as loud and the LED may not be as bright.
Use the preceding circuit, but use the 1mF capacitor (C7) instead of the 0.1mF capacitor (C2). Press a blue and a green key at the same time, while turning the TUNE knob. Watch the colors on the color LED (D8), and listen to the sound.
Next, replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) instead of the 470mF capacitor (C5). Press one of the green keys and hold it down. Every few seconds, the color LED flashes and you hear a click from the speaker.
Build the circuit and turn the slide switch (S1). Press any key on the keyboard (U26), but just one key at a time. The color LED (D8) lights (mostly red), and you hear a tone from the speaker (SP2).
Now press one blue key and one green key at the same time, to produce 2 tones on the speaker. Watch the color LED (D8) closely; you should see more green and blue color than before. Try viewing it in a dimly lit room.
Now turn the TUNE knob while pressing the blue C key and the green C key at the same time. Slowly turn the knob across its entire range, and see how the LED color changes.
The spectrum of LED color here depends on your batteries. With strong batteries you will see more green and blue. With weak batteries you will mostly see red.
Project 109
Color Sound
Normally the color LED changes colors, but here it doesn’t, why? The U26 keyboard produces a changing voltage, intended to produce sound on the speaker. The color LED is designed for use with a stable voltage (like the batteries); when used with the changing voltage from the keyboard, it gets confused and blurs its pattern.
Red is the easiest color for the color LED to produce, and blue is the hardest. So when the voltage to it is weak, the more difficult colors get dim first.
The keyboard produces separate tones for the blue and green keys, which are played together at the speaker. The two tones are also control the color LED. When the tones combine, it is easier for the color LED to produce green and blue color.
Project 111
Color Sound (III)
Project 110
Color Sound (II)
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The color LED actually contains separate red, green, and blue LED controlled by a microcircuit. It is designed for use with a stable voltage (like the batteries); when used with the keyboard output (a changing voltage intended to produce sound on the speaker), it gets confused and blurs its pattern. The result appears white because mixing equal amounts of red, green, and blue light makes white light.
Project 114 Red to White
RV3 controls the voltage to the color LED, through transistor Q2. When the voltage is low, the color LED only produces red, since that is the easiest color for it to produce. As the voltage increases, green light is added, then blue.
Build the circuit and turn the slide switch (S1). Press any key on the keyboard (U26), but just one key at a time. The color LED appears white, and isn’t changing colors like it normally does. If you look closely at the color LED you can see separate red, green, and blue lights on it, which combine to produce white. This is best seen in a dark room. You can also view it with the egg attachment on the color LED, which helps to blend the LED colors together.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 5.1kW resistor (R3) with the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3). Press any key on the keyboard (U26), but just one key at a time. Slowly turn the knob on RV3 from right to left across its range while watching the color LED (D8) closely. Notice how first red gets bright, then green too, then also blue. This is best seen in a dark room. You can also try it with the egg attachment on the color LED.
Build the circuit with the black jumper wire connected as shown, and turn it on. Nothing happens. Disconnect the jumper wire and an alarm sounds.
Project 113
White Light
Project 115 Alarm
You could replace the jumper wire with a longer wire and run it across a doorway to signal an alarm when some­one enters.
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Project 120
Knob Echo
Project 116
Super Voice Echo with Light
Project 117
Press Echo
Project 118
Photo Echo
Build the circuit as shown, turn on the slide switch (S1), and turn the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3). You hear clicking in the speaker (SP2), and the color LED (D8) flashes. Adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). Try this at different RV settings.
If you remove the speaker (SP2) from the circuit then the color LED (D8) will be a little brighter, because the echo IC (U28) isn’t trying to control the speaker at the same time.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the microphone (X1) with the press switch (S2). Set RV3 to max volume (turn it to the left). Press S2 to see light on the color LED (D8), and hear a clicking sound from the speaker (SP2).
Build the circuit as shown, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Talk into the microphone, and listen the echo on the speaker, and see it on the color LED (D8). Set the sound volume using the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3). Adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV).
Note: There will only be sound if RV3 is set towards the left (most of its range will have no sound). Also, at the loudest RV3 setting the circuit may oscillate and make a whining sound; just set the RV3 volume a little lower to stop it.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the press switch (S2) with the photoresistor (RP), Adjust the amount of light shining on the photoresistor to change the sound and light.
Use the circuit from project 117 (with S2) or 118 (with RP), but replace RV3 with a 3-snap wire. The sound will be louder but the light will be dimmer.
Project 119
Loud Press
Photo Echo
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Project 121
Echo Light Headphone
Project 122
Echo Light
Headphone Variants
Headphones
(not included)
WARNING: Headphones performance varies, so use caution. Start with
low volume, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
Project 123
Press Echo Light
Project 124
Photo Echo Light
+
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the press switch with the photoresistor (RP). Adjust the amount of light shining on the photoresistor to change the sound and light. You may need a big difference in brightness to notice the effects.
Next, replace the photoresistor with the microphone (connect the “+” side to the echo IC (U28)). Talk loudly directly into the microphone to flash the light and hear your voice on the speaker (SP2), but your voice will be badly distorted.
Build the circuit as shown, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Push the press switch (S2) to see light on the color LED (D8), and hear a clicking sound from the speaker (SP2). Adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV).
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the microphone (X1) with the press switch (S2). Press S2 to see light on the color LED (D8), and hear a clicking sound from your headphones.
Next, replace the press switch with the photoresistor (RP), Adjust the amount of light shining on the photoresistor to change the sound and light.
You can use a stereo speaker (not included) instead of headphones. When using it with the microphone (X1), you may need to lower the volume to prevent feedback into the microphone.
Build the circuit as shown, and connect your own headphones (not included) to the audio jack (JA). Turn on the slide switch (S1).
Talk into the microphone, and listen the echo on your headphones, and see it on the color LED (D8). Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) for most comfortable sound level (turn to the left for higher volume, most of RV3’s range will be very low volume); then adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). Only the left side of your headphones will have sound.
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+
Project 126
Daylight Voice Echo
Note that there is a 4-snap wire under Q2, partially hidden. Place the circuit in a quiet room with bright light shining into the photoresistor (RP). Connect the speaker (SP2) using the red & black jumper wires, then hold it away from the microphone (X1). Turn on the slide switch (S1). If the speaker makes a whining sound that does not stop, then you need brighter light on the photoresistor, or the room is too noisy.
Talk into the microphone, and listen the echo on the speaker. Now block the light to the photoresistor to turn off the circuit; slowly wave your hand over it to turn the echo on and off. You can adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV).
Build the circuit as shown, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Talk into the microphone (X1) to light the color LED (D8) and hear your voice on the speaker (SP2). Adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV).
Next, replace the microphone with the press switch (S2). Push the press switch to see light on the color LED, and hear a clicking sound from the speaker.
Project 125
Another Voice Echo Light
The photoresistor controls power to the echo IC (U28), and acts as an on/off switch. If there is some light on it but not bright light, it may only partially turn on the echo IC, causing the echo IC to malfunction.
Also, you must hold the speaker away from the microphone or the circuit may self-oscillate due to feedback. You also need a quiet room, with low background noise.
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Project 127
Dark Voice Echo
Project 128
Project 129
Dark Echo
Variants
Use either of the preceding two circuits, but replace the microphone (X1) with the press switch (S2) or 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3). Press S2 or turn the knob on RV3 to change the sound or light.
Modify the preceding circuit to match this one; it uses the color LED (D8) instead of the speaker (SP2). Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing will happen unless the room is dark. This circuit only works if there is no light on the photoresistor (RP).
Cover the photoresistor, talk into the microphone, and see the light flash. You can adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). Shine light on the photoresistor to shut off the circuit.
If the color LED never turns off, then you need to block light from the photoresistor better.
Build the circuit as shown, and place it in a quiet room. Connect the speaker (SP2) using the red & black jumper wires, then hold it away from the microphone (X1). Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing will happen unless the room is dark. This circuit only works if there is no light on the photoresistor (RP).
Cover the photoresistor, talk into the microphone, and listen the echo on the speaker. You can adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV). Shine light on the photoresistor to shut off the circuit.
If the speaker makes a whining sound that does not stop, then you need to block light from the photoresistor better, or the room is too noisy.
The photoresistor controls power to the echo IC (U28), and acts as an on/off switch. If the photoresistor is not dark enough, it may only partially turn on the echo IC, causing the echo IC to malfunction.
Also, you must hold the speaker away from the microphone or the circuit may self­oscillate due to feedback. You also need a quiet room, with low background noise.
Dark Echo Light
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Project 130
Day Echo Light
Project 131
Day Echo
Variants
Project 132
Photo Light Timer
Build the circuit, and turn on the slide switch (S1). If there is light on the photoresistor (RP) then the color LED (D8) will be on. Block the light to the photo-resistor, and the color LED should slowly get dimmer and dimmer.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the microphone (X1) with the press switch (S2) or 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3). Press S2 or turn the knob on RV3 to change the light.
You can also replace the color LED (D8) with the speaker (SP2). When used with the microphone, you must connect the speaker using the red & black jumper wires and hold it away from the microphone, and also omit C7.
Build the circuit as shown, and place it where there is bright light shining into the photoresistor (RP). Turn on the slide switch (S1). If the color LED never turns off, then you need brighter light on the photoresistor.
Talk into the microphone, and see the color LED (D8) flash. Now block the light to the photoresistor to turn off the circuit; slowly wave your hand over it to turn the echo on and off while talking. You can adjust the amount of echo using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV).
Project 133
Adjustable Photo Light Timer
This circuit is similar to the preceding one, except the color LED (D8) stays on longer when you block the light to the photoresistor (RP). Use the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to set how long the color LED will stay bright after the photoresistor is covered.
The 470mF capacitor (C5) stores up some electricity, and releases it when you block the light.
The resistance of RV slows down the dis­charging of the 470mF capacitor (C5).
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Project 135
Tone Stoppers (II)
The sound is a little louder now because the larger 1mF capacitor passes more of the tone than the smaller
0.1mF capacitor did.
Project 136
Tone Stoppers (III)
The sound is much louder now because the larger 470mF capacitor passes much more of the tone than the smaller 1mF capacitor did. Now pressing S2 does not increase the sound, because C5 is already passing all of it.
C7 will give less change on high frequency tones than on low frequency tones; you should be able to notice the difference as you vary the tone using RV3. The smaller C2 will affect both high and low tones a lot. The larger C5 will have little effect on both high and low tones.
Use the circuit from project 135 (with the 1mF capacitor (C7)), but add the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) as shown here. Slowly turn RV3’s knob to vary the pitch (frequency) of the tone from lowest to highest possible (there will only be sound for a small part of RV3’s range). At the same time, press S2 on and off several times, to see how C7 is changing on the sound.
Next, replace C7 with smaller C2 or larger C5, and compare the capacitor’s effect as you vary the tone frequency.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the much larger 470mF capacitor (C5). Compare the sound volume to the preceding circuits. How much difference does pressing S2 make now?
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the larger 1mF capacitor (C7). Compare the sound volume to the preceding circuit.
Build the circuit and turn the slide switch (S1). Press any key on the keyboard (U26). You hear a tone from the speaker (SP2), though it may not be very loud.
Now push the press switch (S2) while pressing the same key. The sound is louder now, because the press switch bypassed the 0.1mF capacitor.
Project 134
Tone Stoppers
Capacitors can store electricity in small amounts. This storage ability allows them to block stable electrical signals and pass changing ones, making them useful in filtering and delay circuits. Capacitors with higher values have more storage capacity, and can pass changing signals more easily,
In this circuit the 0.1mF capacitor blocks most of the keyboard tone signal. You can hear the difference when you press S2 to bypass the capacitor.
Project 137
Tone Stoppers (IV)
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Project 138 Tone Stoppers (V)
Project 140
Voice Changer with Headphones
WARNING: Headphones performance varies, so use caution. Start with
low volume, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
Headphones or Stereo Speaker (not included)
This project requires stereo headphones or a stereo speaker (neither included); connect them to the audio jack (JA). Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to mid-range. Turn on both slide switches (S1), you hear a beep signaing that you may begin recording. Talk into the microphone until you hear a beep (signaling that recording time is over), then turn off the left slide switch to exit recording mode. Push the press switch (S2) to play back the recording and flash the color LED (D8), and turn the knob on RV3 to change the playback speed. You can play your recording faster or slower by changing the setting on RV3.
Adjust the volume to your headphones or stereo speaker using the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV).
Recording time is 6 seconds at normal speed, but this can be changed depending on the setting of RV3 when you are making the recording.
In project 137, there is only sound for a small part of RV3’s range, which can be difficult to tune. To help, modify the circuit to add the adjustable resistor (RV) in series with RV3, as shown. Slowly adjust RV and RV3 to vary the tone from lowest to highest possible, while pressing S2 on and off, to see how the capacitors (C7, or C2 or C5) change the sound.
You can also replace RV3 with the photoresistor (RP). Set RV to the left, and then adjust the tone by varying the light to RP, while comparing the effects of the capacitors.
Build the circuit with the black jumper wire connected as shown, and turn it on. Nothing happens. Disconnect the jumper wire and the color LED (D8) comes on, signalling an alarm.
RV is more sensitive and can be adjusted from 200W to 50kW, compared to 200W to 500kW for RV3.
Project 139 Alarm Light
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Build the circuit (note that there is a 4-snap wire under Q2, partially hidden) and turn the slide switch (S1). Press any key on the keyboard (U26) and set the 500kW adjustable resistor so the sound just shuts off. Now block the light to the photoresistor (RP) and press some keys to play tones.
Build the circuit (note that there is a 4-snap wire under Q2, partially hidden) and turn the slide switch (S1). Press keys on the keyboard (U26). This keyboard only works during the day, so you have to have light on the photoresistor or there won’t be any sound. If you cover the photoresistor or place the circuit in a dark room then it won’t work. If the light is dim then the sound may be abnormal.
Project 141
Day Keyboard
Project 142
Night Keyboard
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Build the circuit and turn the slide switch (S1). Press and hold down any green key on the keyboard (U26), and see what happens.
Project 143
Color Keyboard
Project 145
Color Keyboard (III)
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Project 144 Color Keyboard (II)
Modify the preceding circuit by adding the adjustable resistor (RV) as shown here. Turn the slide switch (S1). Move the lever on the adjustable resistor around; best effects are when it is to the left. Press keys on the keyboard (U26) at the same time. You will see some cool effects.
Build the circuit and turn the slide switch (S1). Press and hold down any green key on the keyboard (U26), and see what happens.
Project 146 Color Keyboard (IV)
Modify the preceding circuit by adding the 100W resistor (R1) and replacing the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 470mF capacitor (C5), as shown here. Turn the slide switch (S1) to see some cool effects. Press any of the blue keys for more effects. Pressing the green keys won’t do anything.
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Project 147
Color Keyboard (V)
Project 148
Color Keyboard
(VI)
Project 149
Adjustable Voice Changer & Light
Project 150
Adjustable
Voice
Changer &
Light (II)
Use the preceding circuit, but swap the locations of the speaker (SP2) and color LED (D8). Now the color LED is at full brightness during playback, and RV adjusts the sound volume.
Set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to mid­range. Turn on both slide switches (S1), you hear a beep signaling that you may begin recording. Talk into the microphone until you hear a beep (signaling that recording time is over), then turn off the left slide switch to exit recording mode. Push the press switch (S2) to play back the recording, and turn the knob on RV3 to change the playback speed. You can play your recording faster or slower by changing the setting on RV3.
Move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to change the brightness of the color LED (LED) during playback. Most of RV’s range will give little or no LED brightness.
Recording time is 6 seconds at normal speed, but this can be changed depending on the setting of RV3 when you are making the recording.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the 0.1mF capacitor (C2). The sound is a little different now, and the green keys can change it.
Turn on the slide switch (S1). Move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) around near the left (not the middle or right). Press any of the blue keys for more effects. Pressing the green keys may not do anything.
Build the circuit and turn the slide switch (S1). Push the press switch (S2) and play keys on the keyboard (U26). Play fast, because this keyboard will only work for a few seconds! Push S2 again to restart the keyboard and its timer.
Turn on the slide switch (S1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) all the way to the left. The color LED (D8) should be on, but may be mostly red. Slowly move the lever on RV to the right until the LED is completely off. Notice that the red color stays on the longest.
Now push the press switch (S2) and adjust RV again, watching the LED colors. Blue and green color may also appear now, but may go dim before red does.
Now move S1 from the points marked C & D to the points marked A & B. Move RV’s lever around again, watching the LED colors and brightness. Try pushing S2 again, but it won’t make as much difference now.
Project 151
Play Fast
Project 152
Red First
The voltage needed to turn on an LED depends on the light color. Red needs the least voltage, and blue needs the most. With S1 at points C & D and S2 off, the voltage to the color LED is lowest, and may barely be enough to turn on the red color. Pressing S2 bypasses the NPN transistor (Q2), and boosts the LED voltage a little. Shifting S1 to points A & B increases the circuit voltage from 3V to 6V, making the LED work for a greater part of RV’s range.
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Project 153 Adjustable Timer Tone
Project 154
Photo Timer
Tone
Note that there is a 3-snap wire under Q2, partially hidden. Turn on both slide switches (S1) and push the press switch (S2). You hear a tone, which turns off after a while. Push S2 again to restart the keyboard and its timer. Use the adjustable resistor (RV) to set how long the timer keeps the sound on for, it can be set for a few seconds or very long. You can change the tone that plays by pressing keys on the keyboard (U26).
Turning off the left slide switch turns off the tone, but not the keys or timer.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 5.1kW resistor (R3) with the photoresistor (RP). The circuit works the same way, but you can vary the pitch of the tone by adjusting the amount of light on the photoresistor.
Project 156
Adjustable
Delay Lamp
Use the preceding circuit, but replace adjustable resistor (RV) with the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3). Set the knob on RV3 to different positions, press S2 to start the timer, and see how long it takes for the color LED to turn on. Turning RV3’s knob clockwise gives longer delay, turning counter clockwise gives shorter delay.
Project 155 Delay Lamp
Push and release the press switch (S2), then turn on the slide switch (S1). Nothing happens at first, but after a few seconds the color LED (D8) turns on. Press S2 to turn off D8 and reset the delay timer.
The adjustable resistor (RV) is used as a fixed resistor, and moving its lever won’t have any effect.
This circuit works because capacitor C5 can store electricity. When you turn on the circuit, electricity flows through resistor RV into C5. When C5 gets full, electricity starts flowing into transistor Q2, which turns on the color LED. Pressing S2 empties C5, and resets the timer. Capacitors C2 and C7 also store electricity, but only small amounts; if used in this circuit they would appear to fill up instantly.
RV3 controls how fast electricity flows into capacitor C5. Increasing RV3’s value makes it take longer to charge up C5.
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Turn on both slide switches (S1). Move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) all the way to the left or right, and watch the brightness of the color LED (D8). The light should be a little brighter when RV’s lever is to the left.
Now move RV’s lever toward one side, but not all the way. There should be a larger difference between the same positions on the left compared to the right.
Project 158
Continuity
Tester
Use the preceding circuit, but instead connect the loose ends of the jumper wires to different materials in your home. If you hear sound, then the material you tested has low resistance and is a good conductor of electricity.
Project 159
High Low Light
The left side of RV is connected to 6V, while the right side is only connected to 3V; so the color LED will be brighter when RV’s lever is to the left. Moving the lever toward the middle increases the resistance in the circuit, and the higher voltage left side will be less affected than the right side.
Project 157 Water Alarm
Build the circuit, and initially leave the loose ends of the red & black jumper wires unconnected. Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing happens. Now place the loose ends of the red & black jumper wires into a cup of water, without their snaps touching each other. You should hear a tone now, indicating that you have detected water!
Don’t drink any water used here.
You could place this circuit in your basement, then it will sound an alarm if your basement starts to flood during a storm.
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Project 161
Fast Flicker
Clicker
Turn on the slide switch (S1). Move the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) around to make the color LED (D8) flicker and make clicking or buzzing on the speaker (SP2). Press keys on the keyboard (U26) for more fun effects. Try pressing a blue key and a green key at the same time, while moving RV’s lever around.
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the smaller 0.1mF capacitor (C2). It works the same way, but the tone has higher pitch, and the color LED may appear to be on continuously.
Project 162
Slow Flicker
Clicker
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 1mF capacitor (C7) with the larger 470mF capacitor (C5). With RV set to the left, the LED flashes and the speaker clicks about once a second. As you move RV’s lever toward the right, the time between flashes/clicks increases and can get very long. Also try holding down one of the blue keys; best effects are when RV is set toward the left.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and push the press switch (S2). You should hear a tone; adjust its pitch using the adjustable resistor (RV). The tone shuts off after about 10 seconds. Push S2 again to re-start the keyboard and its timer.
Some settings on RV may not produce any sound. Press S2 and set RV to where you hear sound.
Project 160 Flicker Clicker
If the speaker is buzzing and the color LED is on but not flashing, then the color LED is probably flashing so fast that it just appears as a blur.
Project 163 Timer Tone
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Project 164
Little Battery
Set the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to the left. Place the color LED (D8) across the points marked B & C (“+” to B); the LED lights as the capacitor charges. Next, place the color LED across points A & B (“+” to A) instead; now the LED lights as the capacitor discharges. Move the color LED back to B & C and repeat. Use the knob on RV3 to vary the charge / discharge rate, but keep it close to the left (otherwise the LED would be too dim to see).
The capacitor is storing energy like a little battery.
Project 165
Tiny Battery
Use the preceding circuit, but replace the 470mF capacitor (C5) with the smaller 1mF capacitor (C7). Set RV3 all the way to the left. Place the color LED across B & C to charge C7, then across A & B to discharge it. The LED will only flash for a moment, because C7 can’t store much electricity (C5 holds 470 times more). The LED is easier to see in a dimly lit room.
Set the knob on the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) to mid-range. Place the 470mF capacitor (C5) across the points marked B & C (“+” to C), then SWING its “+” side around to point A (without unsnapping it from point B). Swing its “+” side between points C & A several times.
When the capacitor (C5) touches point C, the color LED (D8) flashes to show that the batteries charged up the capacitor. When the capacitor touches point A, you hear beep from the speaker (SP2) to show that the audio circuit discharged the capacitor.
You can change the “beep” sound a little by turning the knob on RV3.
Batteries can hold a lot more electricity than capacitors because batteries store chemical energy while capacitors store electrical energy.
Project 166
Little Battery Beep
The capacitor is storing energy like a little battery. The “beep” you hear is the voice changer (U27) entering recording mode, but you can’t make any recording with this circuit. Capacitor C5 can’t store enough electricity to operate the voice changer circuit, but it can power it long enough to make a beep.
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Project 168
Capacitors
in Series (II)
Turn on the right slide switch (S1). Press any green key and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off.
With the left switch off, the 0.1mF and 1mF capacitors (C2 & C7) are connected in series. Turning on the left switch bypasses the 0.1mF capacitor. Notice that having the
0.1mF included has a big effect on the tone.
Use the preceding circuit, but swap the locations of the 0.1mF and 1mF capacitors (C2 & C7). Press any green key and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off.
The tone does not change nearly as much as in the preceding circuit. When capacitors are connected in series, the smaller value dominates the circuit.
Use the project 167 circuit, but replace the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the much larger 470mF capacitor (C5). Press any green key and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off.
Now the tone is the same whether the left switch is on of off, because connecting the large 470mF in series with the small 1mF has little effect on the total capacitance.
Swap the locations of the 1mF and 470mF capacitors (C7 & C5). Press any green key and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off (When the switch is off, hold down the key, because you will only hear a click every few seconds.) Now turning on the left switch has a big effect on the circuit, because connecting the small 1mF in series with the large 470mF greatly increases the total capacitance.
Turn on the right slide switch (S1). Press any green key and compare the sound when you remove one or two of the capacitors (C2, C5, and C7) and replace them with a 3­snap wire. You will only hear a click every few seconds if C5 is the only one in the circuit.
Project 170
More Capacitors in Series
Project 169
Capacitors in Series (III)
Project 167
Capacitors in Series
Think of capacitors as storage tanks for electricity. If you place a small storage tank in series with a big one, electricity flows into both at the same time, but the small one fills up quickly and stops the flow.
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Project 171
Capacitors in Parallel
Project 172
Capacitors in
Parallel (II)
Turn on the right slide switch (S1). Press any green key and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off.
With the left switch on, the 0.1mF and 1mF capacitors (C2 & C7) are connected in parallel. Turning off the left switch disconnects the 0.1mF capacitor. Notice that having the 0.1mF included has only a small effect on the tone.
Use the preceding circuit, but swap the locations of the 0.1mF and 1mF capacitors (C2 & C7). Press any green key and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off.
The tone changes much more now than in the preceding circuit. When capacitors are connected in parallel, the larger value dominates the circuit.
Think of capacitors as storage tanks for electricity. If you place a large storage tank in parallel with a big one, electricity flows into both at the same time, but keeps flowing until both are full.
Use the project 171 circuit, but replace the 0.1mF capacitor (C2) with the much larger 470mF capacitor (C5). Press any green key and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off. (When the switch is on, hold down the key, because you will only hear a click every few seconds.)
Turning on the left switch has a big effect on the circuit, because connecting the large 470mF in parallel with the small 1mF greatly increases the total capacitance.
Swap the locations of the 1mF and 470mF capacitors (C7 & C5). Press any green key and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off. Now the tone is the same whether the left switch is on of off, because connecting the small 1mF in parallel with the large 470mF has little effect on the total capacitance.
Turn on the right slide switch (S1). Press any green key and compare the sound when you remove one or two of the capacitors (C2, C5, and C7). You will only hear a click every few seconds if C5 is in the circuit.
Project 174
More Capacitors in Parallel
Project 173
Capacitors in Parallel (III)
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Turn on the right slide switch (S1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to each side and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off.
With the lever up, RV is a 200W resistor. Turning the left switch off connects this in series with the 5.1kW resistor (R3), and has a small effect on the tone.
With the lever down, RV is a 50kW resistor. Turning the left switch off connects this in series with the 5.1kW resistor (R3), and has a big effect on the tone.
Turn on the right slide switch (S1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to each side and compare the sound with the left slide switch on or off. If there is no sound when the lever is set all the way up, adjust it down a little until there is sound.
With the lever up, RV is a 200W resistor. Turning the left switch off connects this in parallel with the 5.1kW resistor (R3), and has a big effect on the tone.
With the lever down, RV is a 50kW resistor. Turning the left switch off connects this in parallel with the 5.1kW resistor (R3), and has a small effect on the tone.
Pressing any of the green keys now will change the tone, by connecting resistors inside the keyboard in parallel with your R3-RV resistor network.
Project 175
Resistors in Series
Project 176
Resistors in Parallel
Think of resistors as obstructions to the flow of electricity. When there is only one path for electricity and part of it has a big obstruction, not much will flow. When there are several paths for electricity and one has a big obstruction, a lot will flow because most will flow through the unobstructed path.
Inside the keyboard module (U26) is an oscillator circuit that produces separate tones for the blue and green keys. The frequency (pitch) of the tone is set using an internal resistor-capacitor network, with each key representing a different resistor value. The green keys can be adjusted using the tune knob.
The tone of the green keys can also be changed using external resistors and capacitors, which is done in many of the projects.
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Turn on the right slide switch (S1). There are five resistors (R1, R3, RV, RV3, and RP), connected in parallel, that are controlling the current to the color LED (D8). See which resistor has the most effect on the LED brightness, by removing them one at a time. The resistance of RV and RV3 depends on their setting, so try them at different settings.
These five resistors are all connected in parallel, so the smallest one (R1, 100W), will have the most effect.
Turn on the slide switch (S1). There are five resistors (R1, R3, RV, RV3, and RP), connected in series, that are controlling the current to the color LED (D8). See which resistor has the most effect on the LED brightness, by replacing them with a 3-snap wire or the red/black jumper wires, one at a time. The resistance of RV and RV3 depends on their setting, so try them at different settings. Note that the photoresistor’s (RP’s) resistance can be very high if there isn’t bright light shining on it.
Project 177
Lots of Resistors in
Series
Project 178
Lots of Resistors in
Parallel
These five resistors are all connected in series, so the highest value, will have the most effect.
Swapping the locations of any parts in the circuit (without changing the direction of their “+” side) will not change how the circuit works. Try it.
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Project 179 Be a Loud Musician
Project 180
Be a Loud Musician (II)
Use the preceding circuit and songs, but press both the blue and green keys for each note, at the same time. Try this with the blue and green keys aligned (as per project 2), but also try them at different TUNE knob settings (so the keys are out
of alignment.
It’s Raining, It’s Pouring:
A G E A G E G G E A G E E
It’s rain-ing, it’s pour-ing, Rain-y days aren’t bor-ing. We
F F D D F F D D G F E D E C
like to jump, we like to splash, Let’s hope it rains till mor-ning.
Jingle Bells
E E E E E E E G C D E–
Jin-gle bells, jin-gle bells, Jin-gle all the way,
F F F F F E E E E C G F D C–
Oh what fun it is to ride in a one horse o-pen sleigh.
London Bridge is Falling Down
G A G F E F G D E F E F G
Lon-don Bridge is fal-ling down, Fal-ling down, fal-ling down.
G A G F E F G D– G– E C–
Lon-don Bridge is fal-ling down, My fair la-dy.
If You’re happy and You Know It
C C F F F F F F E F G–
If your’re hap-py and you know it, clap your hands.
C C G G G G G G F G A–
If your’re hap-py and you know it, clap your hands.
A A A# A# A# A# D D A# A# A A A G F F–
If you’re hap-py and you know it, And you real-ly want to show it,
A# A# G G G F E C D E F–
If your’re hap-py and you know it, clap your hands.
A Tisket, A Tasket
E G E F G E G C E A G E E
A tis-ket a tas-ket, A green and yel-low bas-ket
F F D D F F D D G F E D E C–
I wrote a let-ter to my love and on the way I dropped it.
Let’s play some more songs. Build the circuit shown here (it is similar to the project 1 circuit, but louder), and turn on the slide switch (S1).
For best song quality, align the blue and green keys together: Turn the TUNE knob while pressing the blue C key and the green C key at the same time. Slowly turn the knob across its entire range, and see how the sound varies. At most TUNE knob positions you will notice separate tones from the blue and green keys, but there will be a knob position where the blue and green tones blend together and seem like a single musical note - this is the best TUNE setting to play songs with. The blue and green keys are now aligned together.
To play a song, just press the key corresponding with the letter shown. If there is a “
” after a letter, press the key longer than usual.
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Some songs have been modified to make them easier to play on your keyboard.
Build the circuit and turn on the right switch (S1). Press one key in a series of long and short bursts with pauses in between, and use Morse Code to send secret messages to your friends.
You can use the difference in pitch between keys to send messages to different people. For example, sending Morse Code with the blue C key can mean that the message is for one friend, using the green C key can mean it’s for someone else, the green B key can be someone else. Turn on the left slide switch makes the pitch of the green keys much different, so can be used to identify messages for additional friends.
Morse Code: The forerunner of today’s telephone system was the telegraph, which was widely used in the latter half of the 19th century. It only had two states - on or off (that is, transmitting or not transmitting), and could not send the range of frequencies contained in human voices or music. A code was developed to send information over long distances using this system and a sequence of dots and dashes (short or long transmit bursts). It was named Morse Code after its inventor. It was also used extensively in the early days of radio communications, though it isn’t in wide use today. It is sometimes referred to in Hollywood movies, especially Westerns. Modern fiber optics communications systems send data across the country using similar coding systems, but at much higher speeds. Indian tribes sometimes used smoke signals to send messages.
MORSE CODE
A . _ B _ . . . C _ . _ . D _ . . E . F . . _ . G _ _ .
H . . . .
I . . J . _ _ _ K _ . _ L . _ . . M _ _
N _ . O _ _ _ P . _ _ . Q _ _ . _ R . _ . S . . . T _ U . . _ V . . . _ W . _ _ X _ . . _ Y _ . _ _ Z _ _ . .
Period
. _ . _ . _
Comma
_ _ . . _ _ Question . . _ _ . . 1 . _ _ _ _ 2 . . _ _ _ 3 . . . _ _
4 . . . . _
5 . . . . .
6 _ . . . .
7 _ _ . . . 8 _ _ _ . . 9 _ _ _ _ . 0 _ _ _ _ _
Project 181 Morse Code
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Transistor Audio
Amplifier
Build the circuit with the speaker (SP2) connected using the red & black jumper wires. Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to mid-range, and turn on the slide switch (S1). Hold the speaker next to your ear and blow into the microphone (X1), or talk directly into it with your mouth close to it.
This circuit amplifies your voice and plays it on the speaker. It should be easy to hear the blowing, but it may be difficult to understand your voice, because there isn’t enough amplification and there will be some distortion. Also, the sound from the speaker may not be as loud as hearing your voice directly.
If you have headphones (not included), then modify the preceding circuit to match this one, and connect your headphones to the audio jack (JA). Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to mid-range, and set the 500kW adjustable resistor (RV3) for most comfortable sound level (turn to the left for higher volume, most of RV3’s range will be very low volume). Turn on the slide switch (S1). Blow into the microphone (X1), or talk directly into it with your mouth close to it. The sound may not be very loud.
Headphones
(not included)
WARNING: Headphones performance varies, so use caution. Start with
low volume, then carefully increase to a comfortable level. Permanent hearing loss may result from long-term exposure to sound at high volumes.
!
Project 182
Transistor Audio
Amplifier (II)
Project 183
With headphones it may be easier to recognize the difference between the circuit sound and hearing your voice directly, than it had been with the speaker.
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Method A (easy): Spread some water on the table into
puddles of different shapes, perhaps like the ones shown here. Touch the jumper wires to points at the ends of the puddles. Small, narrow puddles may not produce any sound.
Method B (challenging): Use a SHARP pencil (No. 2 lead is best) and draw shapes, such as the ones here. Draw them on a hard, flat surface. Press hard and fill in several times until you have a thick, even layer of pencil lead. Touch the jumper wires to points at the ends of the drawings, then move them across the drawing to vary the sound. You may get better electrical contact if you wet the metal with a few drops of water. Wash your hands when finished.
Method C (adult supervision and permission required): Use some double­sided pencils if available, or VERY CAREFULLY break a pencil in half. Touch the jumper wires to the black core of the pencil at both ends.
Build the circuit and turn on the switch (S1). Initially set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) to the left, then move it later to vary the range of sounds that can be produced. Make your parts using either the water puddles method (A), the drawn parts method (B), or the pencil parts method (C). Touch the metal in the jumper wires to your parts and listen to the sound.
Long, narrow shapes have more resistance than short, wide ones. The black core of pencils is graphite, the same material used in the resistors.
Next, place the loose ends of the jumper wires in a cup of water, make sure the metal parts aren’t touching each other. The water should change the sound. The pitch may depend on the amount of water, so see if adding more water to the cup changes the sound.
Now add salt to the water and stir to dissolve it. The sound should have higher pitch now, since salt water has less resistance than plain water.
Don’t drink any water used here.
Project 185
Color Touch Light
Build the circuit. It doesn’t do anything,
and may appear to be missing
something. It is missing something,
and that something is you.
Touch points A & B with your fingers.
The color LED (D8) may be lit. If isn’t,
then you are not making a good
enough electrical connection with the
metal. Try pressing harder on the
snaps, or wet your fingers with water
or saliva. The LED should be on now.
If it isn’t very bright, then try going into
a dimly lit room.
Make Your Own Parts
Project 184
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Project 186
Test Your Hearing
This project requires a smart phone with an internet connection, so you can download a free app. Find and download a “function generator” app that can generate sine and square signals. Visit the Snap Circuits®Sound product page at
http://www.elenco.com/downloads/scs185/ to find a few
suggestions.
Set the app for “Sine” function (for a single tone), start it, and vary the frequency across the available range. You can listen to the sound directly on your smart phone, or use the circuit in project 60. Set the volume control on your smart phone (and using RV, if you are using project 60) so that the sound is at a comfortable level for middle frequencies.
See what range of frequency you can hear. Notice that the sound is loud at middle frequencies, but low (or no sound at all) at low or high frequency. There are two reasons for this:
1. Your hearing ability depends on frequency. Most people can hear frequencies in the range of 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz, but much better in the middle of this range than at the low or high ends of it. As you get older you don’t hear higher frequencies as well, so use the same circuit to see what range of frequency your grandparents can hear.
2. Your speaker’s ability to produce sound depends on frequency, and it may not perform as well at low or high frequency. Speakers are only designed to produce sound in the range that we can hear.
Part B: set the frequency on the function generator app to just below what you can hear, then change the function from “Sine” to “Square” function (for a tone with lots of overtones). You should be able to hear it now, because a signal with overtones has some energy at higher frequencies, which should be within your hearing range.
This project requires a smart phone with an internet connection, so you can download a free app. Find and download an “oscilloscope” app that lets your smart phone act as an oscilloscope. Visit the Snap Circuits
®
Sound product page at http://www.elenco.com/downloads/scs185/ to find a few suggestions.
An oscilloscope is an instrument that engineers use to actually look at electrical signals. Constant tones are especially interesting to look at, because they are repetitive and actually look like a wave.
Start the app and talk into the smart phone’s microphone, and watch your voice on the screen. Try making a single tone at different frequencies, or whistling, or snapping your fingers.
Next, use the one of the keyboard (U26) circuits such as projects 1 or 25-
26. Make sound with the keyboard and see what it looks like.
Try an echo circuit such as project 29, and see what an echo looks like.
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Project 187
See the Sound
This project requires a smart phone with an internet connection, so you can download a free app. Find and download a “spectrum analyzer” app that lets your smart phone view the frequency spectrum of a signal. Visit the Snap Circuits
®
Sound product page at
http://www.elenco.com/downloads/scs185/ to find a few suggestions.
A spectrum analyzer is an instrument that engineers use to look at the frequency content of electrical signals, and shows which frequencies have the most energy. A pure tone will have all its energy at a single frequency, while a tone with overtones will have the most energy at the main tone, but also have energy at multiples of the main tone. A complex sound will have its energy spread across many frequencies.
Spectrum analyzers usually show data as a chart of energy content versus frequency. Energy is usually shown in dB (decibels), a logarithmic measurement, so the strongest frequencies have much more energy than the weak ones shown. There is always a “noise floor” of background noise, which can make weak signals difficult to observe.
Start the app and talk into the smart phone’s microphone, and watch the frequency content of your voice on the screen. Try making a single tone at different frequencies, or whistling.
Next, use the one of the keyboard (U26) circuits such as projects 1, 6, or 25-26. Make sound with the keyboard and see what its frequency content looks like.
See the Spectrum
Project 188
Project #B1
See the Sound
This circuit uses the color organ module (U22) from the SCL-175 set. Build the circuit as shown, turn off the left slide switch (S1), and turn on the right slide switch. Press keys on the keyboard to make sounds and change the light on the color organ. Turn on the left slide switch to add optical control, and wave your hand over the photoresistor to also change the sound and light. If desired, add one of the SCL-175 LED attachments on the color organ.
BONUS CIRCUIT FOR SNAP CIRCUITS®LIGHT OWNERS
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If you own Snap Circuits®LIGHT (Model SCL-175), then you may also build this circuit. Do not connect additional voltage sources from other sets, or you may damage your parts. Contact Elenco
®
if you have any questions.
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OTHER SNAP CIRCUITS®PRODUCTS!
For a listing of local toy retailers who carry Snap Circuits®visit www.elenco.com or call us toll-free at 800-533-2441. For Snap Circuits
®
upgrade kits, accessories, additional parts, and more information about your parts visit www.snapcircuits.net.
Build over 100 projects
Including:
Snap Circuits®Jr.
Model SC-100
• Flying saucer
• Spin draw
• Sound activated switch
• Alarm circuit
Contains over 30 parts
Including:
• Photoresistor
• Motor
• Music IC
• Space War IC
Build over 300 projects
Including:
Snap Circuits
®
Model SC-300
• AM radio
• Radio announcer
• Lie detector
• Burglar alarm
Contains over 60 parts
Including:
• Two transistors
• Microphone
• Power amplifier IC
• Variable capacitor
Build over 500 projects
Including:
Snap Circuits®Pro
Model SC-500
• Digitally tuned FM radio
• Adjustable light control
• Digital voice recorder
• AC generator
Contains over 75 parts
Including:
• Recording IC
• FM module
• Transformer
• Analog meter
Build over 750 projects
Including:
Snap Circuits®Extreme
Model SC-750
• Strobe light
• Transistor AM radio
• Electromagnetism
• Rechargeable battery
Contains over 80 parts
Including:
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• Electromagnet
• Vibration switch
• Computer interface
Snap Circuits®Green
Model SCG-125
Build over 75 projects
Projects relate to electricity in the home and magnetism and how it is used.
Snaptricity
®
Model SCBE-75
Contains over 40 parts
Including:
Meter, electromagnet, motor, lamps, switches, fan, compass, and electrodes.
Alternative Energy Kit
Build over 125 projects and have loads of fun learning about environmentally-friendly energy and how the electricity in your home works. Includes full-color manual with over 100 pages and separate educational manual. This educational manual will explain all the forms of environmentally-friendly energy including: geothermal, hydrogen fuel cells, wind, solar, tidal, hydro, and others. Contains over 40 parts.
Snap Rover
®
Model SCROV-10
Snap Circuits®Light
Model SCL-175
Have FUN building your own RC Snap Rover
®
using the colorful Snap Circuits®parts that come with this kit. There is no soldering required as all the parts snap together with ease. Once completed, you will be able to navigate your surroundings with the easy-to­use Snap Rover
®
remote control.
Contains over 20 projects
and over
30 parts
Build over 175 projects
Including:
Contains over 55 parts
Including:
Strobe light, color organ, infrared detector, color changing LED, fiber optic cable, and more!
• Fiber Fun
• Dancing Lights
• Follow the Music
• Audio Infrared Detector
SCS-185 SOUND Block Layout
Important: If any parts are missing or damaged, DO NOT RETURN TO RETAILER.
Call toll-free (800) 533-2441 or e-mail us at: help@elenco.com. Customer Service • 150 Carpenter Ave. Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.
Note: A complete parts list is on pages 2 and 3 in this manual.
Base grid (11.0” x 7.7”) overlays many parts
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