Elenco SC300, SC750 User Manual

Copyright © 2012, 2010 by Elenco®Electronics, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced by 753104 any means; electronic, photocopying, or otherwise without written permission from the publisher.
REV-D Revised 2012
Project 317
-1-
Basic T roubleshooting 1 Parts List 2
MORE
About Your Snap Circuits®Parts 3, 4
MORE
Advanced T roub leshooting 4
MORE
DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits 5 Project Listings 6, 7 Projects 306-511 8 - 61 Other Snap Circuits®Products 62
1. Most circuit problems are due to incorrect assembly. Always double-check that your circuit exactly matches the drawing for it.
2. Be sure that parts with positive/negative markings are positioned as per the drawing.
3. Be sure that all connections are securely snapped.
4. Tr y replacing the batteries.
5. If the motor spins but does not balance the fan, check the black plastic piece with three prongs on the motor shaft. Be sure that it is at the top of the shaft.
Elenco
®
is not responsible for parts damaged due to
incorrect wiring.
Basic T roub leshooting
Note: If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can
follow the Advanced Troubleshooting procedure on page 4 to determine which ones need replacing.
Review of How To Use It (See page 3 of the Projects 1-101 manual for more details.)
The Snap Circuits®kit uses building blocks with snaps to build the different electrical and electronic circuits in the projects. These blocks are in different colors and have numbers on them so that you can easily identify them. The circuit you will build is shown in color and with numbers, identifying the blocks that you will use and snap together to form a circuit.
Next to each part in every circuit drawing is a small number in black. This tells you which level the component is placed at. Place all parts on level 1 first,
then all of the parts on level 2, then all of the parts on level 3, etc.
A large clear plastic base grid is included with this kit to help keep the circuit block together. The base has rows labeled A-G and columns labeled 1-10.
Install two (2) “AA” batteries (not included) in the battery holder (B1). The 2.5V and 6V bulbs come packaged separate from their sockets. Install the 2.5V bulb in the L1 lamp socket, and the 6V bulb in the L2 lamp socket.
Place the fan on the motor (M1) whenever that part is used, unless the project you are building says not to use it.
Some circuits use the red and black jumper wires to make unusual connections. Just clip them to the metal snaps or as indicated.
Note: While building the projects, be careful not to accidentally make a direct connection across the battery holder (a “short circuit”), as this may damage and/or quickly drain the batteries.
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD -
Never connect Snap Circuits®to the electrical outlets in your home in any way!
WARNING FOR ALL PROJECTS WITH A SYMBOL
Moving parts. Do not touch the motor or fan during operation. Do not lean over the motor. Do not launch the fan at people, animals, or objects. Eye protection is recommended.
!
!
WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD-
Small parts. Not for children under 3 years.
!
Batteries:
• Use only 1.5V AA type, alkaline batteries (not included).
• Insert batteries with correct polarity.
• Non-rechargeable batteries should not be recharged. Rechargeable batteries should only be charged under adult supervision, and should not be recharged while in the product.
• Do not mix alkaline, standard (carbon­zinc), or rechargeable (nickel-cadmium) batteries.
• Do not mix old and new batteries.
• Remove batteries when they are used up.
• Do not short circuit the battery terminals.
• Never throw batteries in a fire or attempt to open its outer casing.
• Batteries are harmful if swallowed, so keep away from small children.
• Do not connect batteries or battery holders in parallel.
!
WARNING: Always check your wiring before
turning on a circuit. Never leave a circuit unattended while the batteries are installed. Never connect additional batteries or any other power sources to your circuits. Discard any cracked or broken parts.
Adult Supervision: Because children’s abilities
var
y so much, even with age groups, adults should exercise discretion as to which experiments are suitable and safe (the instructions should enable supervising adults to establish the experiment’s suitability for the child). Make sure your child reads and follows all of the relevant instructions and safety procedures, and keeps them at hand for reference.
This product is intended for use by adults and children who have attained sufficient maturity to read and follow directions and warnings.
Never modify your parts, as doing so may disable important safety features in them, and could put your child at risk of injury.
!
-2-
Qty. ID Name Symbol Par t # Qty. ID Name Symbol Par t #
r 3
2-Snap Wire 6SC02
r 1
Analog Meter 6SCM2
r 1
5-Snap Wire 6SC05
r 1
SCR 6SCQ3
r 1
Diode 1N4001
6SCD3
r 1
Relay 6SCS3
r 1
7-Segment LED Display
6SCD7
r 1
Transformer 6SCT1
r 1
FM Module 6SCFM
r 1
Recording Integrated Circuit
6SCU6
You may order additional / replacement parts at our website: www.snapcircuits.net
Q3
M2
FM
D3
5
2
S3
T1
U6
D7
Note: There are additional part lists in your other project manuals. Part designs are subject to change without notice.
Important: If any parts are missing or damaged, DO NOT RETURN TO RETAILER. Call toll-free (800) 533-2441 or e-mail us at:
help@elenco.com. Customer Ser vice • 150 Car penter Ave. • Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.
Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers
-3-
(Part designs are subject to change without notice). The FM module (FM) contains an integrated FM radio circuit.
Refer to the figure belo
w for the pinout description:
The meter (M2) is a very important indicating and measuring device
. You’ll use it to measure the amount of current or voltage depending on the circuit configuration. Notice the meter has a “+” sign, indicating the positive terminal (+ power from the batteries). The other snap is the negative terminal (– power return to batteries). The meter has a switch to change between scales, indicated as LOW and HIGH (or 10mA and 1A).
The recording IC module (U6) contains an integrated recording circuit.
You can record a message up to five seconds long. There are also three pre-recorded songs. Ref er to the figure below f or the pinout descriptions:
The relay (S3) is an electronic switch with contacts that can be closed or opened. It contains a coil that gener
ates a magnetic field when current flows through it. The magnetic field attracts an iron armature, which switches the contacts (see figure).
The transformer (T1) consists of two coil windings on one core. One coil is called the Primar
y (input) and the other the Secondary (output). The purpose of the transformer is to increase the amount of AC voltage applied to the primary. This transformer is a step-up transformer.
Diode (D3) - Think of a diode as a one-way valve that permits
current flow in the direction of the arro
w. The anode (arrow) is the positive side, and the cathode (bar) is the negative. The diode conducts or turns on when the voltage at the anode is 0.7V or greater.
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About Your New Snap Circuits®Parts (Note: There is additional information in your other project manuals).
(+)
OUT(–)
FM Module:
(+) - power from batteries (–) - power return to batteries T - tune up R - reset OUT - output connection
See project #307 for example of proper connections.
(+)
OUT
(–)
Recording IC Module:
(+) - power from batteries (–) - power return to batteries RC - record Play - play OUT - output connection Mic + - microphone input Mic – - microphone input
See project #308 for example of proper connections.
RCPlay
Mic –
Mic +
COM
Relay:
Coil - connection to coil Coil - connection to coil NC - normally closed contact NO - normally open contact COM - Common
See project #341 for example of proper connections.
Coil
Coil
NO
NC
B
CTB
Transformer:
A - less windings side A - less windings side B - more windings side B - more windings side CT - center tap
See project #347 for example of proper connections.
A
A
Anode
Diode:
Anode - (+) Cathode - (–)
Cathode
(+)
(–)
Meter:
(+) - power from batteries (–) - power return to batteries
Less Windings
More Windings
Our Student Guides give much more information about your parts, along with a complete lesson in basic electr onics. See www .snapcir cuits.net/learn.htm or page 62 for more inf ormation.
Elenco®is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow this procedure to systematically determine which ones need replacing:
1 - 20. Refer to project manuals 1 & 2 (projects #1-101, #102-305) for testing steps 1-20, then
continue belo
w.
21. FM Module (FM): Build project #307, you should hear FM radio stations.
22. Meter (M2): Build the mini-circuit shown here and set the meter switch to LOW (or 10mA), the meter (M2) should deflect full scale
. Then, replace the 10kΩ resistor (R4) with the 2.5V lamp (L1), and set the meter switch to HIGH (or 1A). The meter should deflect to 1 or higher.
23. Recording IC (U6): Build project #308. Make an 8 second recording, then listen to the three prerecorded songs
.
24. Relay (S3): Build project #341. The red LED (D1) should be on when the slide switch (S1) is on, and the green LED (D2) should be on when the s
witch is off.
25. Transformer (T1): Build the mini-circuit shown here. Pressing the press switch (S2) flashes the green LED (D2). Connect the jumper wire to the CT point. Pressing the press switch flashes the green LED.
26. Diode (D3): Build the mini-circuit shown here, the red LED (D1) should light. Re
verse the direction of the diode, the LED should not light now.
27. SCR (Q3): Build the mini-circuit shown here. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the motor (M1) should not spin.
Press the press switch (S2), the motor should start spinning. Now turn the slide switch off and on, the motor should not spin.
28. 7-Segment Display (D7): Build project #337. All segments light, displaying the number 8.
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SCR (Q3) - An SCR is a three-pin (anode, cathode
and gate) silicon-controlled rectifier diode. Like a standard diode, it permits current flow in only one direction. It will only conduct in the f orw ard direction when triggered by a short pulse (or steady voltage applied) between the gate and cathode terminals.
A high current may damage this part, so the current must be limited by other components in the circuit.
The 7-segment display (D7) is found in many devices today. It contains 7 LED’s that have been combined into one case to make a convenient device for displa ying n umbers and some letters. The display is a common anode version. That means that the positive leg of each LED is connected to a common point which is the snap marked “+”. Each LED has a negative leg that is connected to one snap. To make it work you need to connect the “+” snap to positive three volts. Then to make each segment light up, connect the snaps of each LED to ground. In the projects, a resistor is always connected to the “+” snap to limit the current.
A high current may damage this part, so the current must be limited by other components in the circuit.
SCR:
A - Anode K - Cathode G - Gate
7-segment Display:
(+) - power from batteries A - Segment A B - Segment B C - Segment C D - Segment D E - Segment E F - Segment F G - Segment G DP - Decimal Point
See project #337 for example of proper connections.
MORE
Advanced Troubleshooting (Adult super vision recommended)
MORE
About Y our Snap
Circuits
®
Parts (continued)
-5-
MORE
DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits
After building the circuits given in this booklet, you ma y wish to e xperiment on your own. Use the projects in this booklet as a guide, as many important design concepts are introduced throughout them. Every circuit will include a power source (the batteries), a resistance (which might be a resistor, lamp, motor, integrated circuit, etc.), and wiring paths between them and back. You must be careful not to create “short circuits” (very low-resistance paths
across the batteries
, see examples below) as this will damage components and/or quickly drain your batteries. Only connect the IC’s using configurations given in the projects,
incorrectly doing so may damage them. Elenco®is not responsible for parts damaged
due to incorrect wiring.
Here are some important guidelines:
ALWAYS
USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN EXPERIMENTING ON YOUR OWN.
ALWAYS
include at least one component that will limit the current through a circuit, such as the speaker, lamp, whistle chip, capacitors, IC’s (which must be connected properly), motor, microphone, photoresistor, or fixed resistors.
ALWAYS
use the 7-segment display, LED’s , transistors, the high frequency IC, the SCR, the antenna, and switches in conjunction with other components that will limit the current through them. Failure to do so will create a shor t circuit and/or damage those parts.
ALWAYS
connect the adjustable resistor so that if set to its 0 setting, the current will be limited by other components in the circuit.
ALWAYS
connect position capacitors so that the “+” side gets the higher voltage.
ALWAYS
disconnect your batteries immediately and check your wiring if something appears to be getting hot.
ALWAYS
check your wiring before turning on a circuit.
ALWAYS
connect IC’s, the FM module, and the SCR using configurations given in the projects or as per the connection descriptions for the parts.
NEVER
try to use the high frequency IC as a transistor (the packages are similar, but the parts are different).
NEVER
use the 2.5V lamp in a circuit with both battery holders unless you are sure that the voltage across it will be limited.
NEVER
connect to an electrical outlet in your home in any way.
NEVER
leave a circuit unattended when it is turned on.
NEVER
touch the motor when it is spinning at high speed.
Note: If you have the more advanced Model SC-750, there are additional guidelines in your other project manual.
For all of the projects given in this book, the parts may be arranged in diff erent ways without changing the circuit. For example, the order of parts connected in series or in parallel does not matter — what matters is how combinations of these sub-circuits are arranged together.
Examples of SHORT CIRCUITS - NEVER DO THESE!!!
You are encouraged to tell us about new circuits you create. If they are unique, we will post them with your name and state on our website at www.snapcircuits.net/kidkreations.htm. Send your suggestions to Elenco
®
.
Elenco®provides a circuit designer so that you can make your own Snap Circuits®drawings. This Microsoft®Word document can be downloaded from www.snapcircuits.net/SnapDesigner.doc or through the
www.snapcircuits.net web site.
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Nev
er connect Snap Circuits®to
the electrical outlets in your home in any way!
Placing a 3-snap wire directly across the batteries is a SHORT CIRCUIT.
This is also a
SHORT CIRCUIT.
When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, this large circuit has a SHORT CIRCUIT path (as shown by the arrows). The short circuit prevents any other portions of the circuit from ever working.
NEVER
DO!
Warning to Snap Rover owners: Do not connect your parts to the
Rover body except when using our approved circuits, the Rover body has a higher voltage which could damage your parts.
!
!
NEVER
DO!
!
!
!
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
Project # Description Page #
306 AM Radio 8 307 Adjustable Volume FM Radio 8 308 Playback & Record 9 309 Playing Music 9 310 Light-Controlled Music 9 311 Touch-Controlled Music 9 312 Power Playback & Record 10 313 Power Amplified Playing Music 10 314 Power Light-Controlled Music 10 315 Pow er Touch-Controlled Music 10 316 FM Radio 11 317 Mega Circuit 11 318 SCR 2.5V Bulb 12 319 SCR & Motor 12 320 Music Alarm 13 321 Light-Music Alarm 13 322 Light-Controlled SCR 13 323 3mA Meter 14 324 0-3V Meter 14 325 Function of adjustable resistor 15 326 Function of Photoresistor 15 327 Meter Deflect by Motor 16 328 SCR 6V Bulb 16 329 Principle of Segment LED 17 330 Display #1 17 331 Display #2 17 332 Display #3 17 333 Display #4 17 334 Display #5 18 335 Display #6 18 336 Display #7 18 337 Display #8 18 338 Display #9 18 339 Display #0 18
Project # Description Page #
340 Music Meter 18 341 LED & Relay 19 342 Manual 7 Second Timer 19 343 Half Wave Rectifier Circuit 20 344 Half Wave Rectifier Circuit (II) 20 345 LED vs. Diode 20 346 Current & Resistance 20 347 Telegraph 21 348 Mosquito Sound 21 349 Mosquito Sound (II) 21 350 Mosquito Sound (III) 21 351 Touch-Control Mosquito Sound 21 352 Bulb & Relay 22 353 Relay Buzzer 22 354 Transistor Timer 23 355 Light-Controlled Relay 23 356 Bulb Alert Relay 23 357 Adjustable Light Control 24 358 Meter Deflection 24 359 AC to DC Current 25 360 Current Meter 25 361 Buzzer, Relay, & Transformer 26 362 Buzzer & Relay 26 363 Display Capital Letter “F” 27 364 Display Capital Letter “H” 27 365 Display Capital Letter “P” 27 366 Display Capital Letter “S” 27 367 Display Capital Letter “U” 27 368 Display Capital Letter “C” 27 369 Display Capital Letter “E” 27 370 Display “.” 27 371 Display Letter “b” 28 372 Display Letter “c” 28 373 Display Letter “d” 28
Project # Description Page #
374 Display Letter “e” 28 375 Display Letter “h” 28 376 Recorded V oice Transmitter 28 377 Space War Alar m by SCR 29 378 Light Space War Alar m 29 379 Alarm by SCR 29 380 Light & Alarm IC 29 381 Delay Light 30 382 Delay Fan 30 383 Sound Activated Fan 30 384 Recording LED Indicator 31 385 Playback & Record with Meter 31 386 Alarm Light 32 387 Alarm Light (II) 32 388 Night Police Car 33 389 Night Machine Gun 33 390 Night Fire Engine 33 391 Night Ambulance 33 392 Daytime Light Police Car 34 393 Daytime Light Machine Gun 34 394 Daytime Light Fire Engine 34 395 Daytime Light Ambulance 34 396 Flashing 8 35 397 Flashing 8 with Sound 35 398 Musical Space War 35 399 Electronic Noisemaker 36 400 Electronic Noisemaker (II) 36 401 Bee 36 402 Bee (II) 36 403 Bee (III) 36 404 Oscillator Sound 37 405 Oscillator Sound (II) 37 406 Oscillator Sound (III) 37 407 Oscillator Sound (IV) 37
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Project Listings
-7-
Project # Description Page #
408 Oscillator Sound (V) 37 409 Transistor Tester 38 410 Adjustable Voltage Divider 38 411
Automatic Display Capital Letter “C”
39
412
Automatic Display Capital Letter “E”
39
413
Automatic Display Capital Letter “F”
39
414
Automatic Display Capital Letter “H”
39
415
Automatic Display Capital Letter “P”
39
416
Automatic Display Capital Letter “S”
39
417
Automatic Display Capital Letter “U”
39
418
Automatic Display Capital Letter “L”
39 419 Whistle Chip Sounds 40 420 Whistle Chip Sounds (II) 40 421 Whistle Chip Sounds (III) 40 422 Whistle Chip Sounds (IV) 40 423 Whistle Chip Sounds (V) 40 424 Whistle Chip Sounds (VI) 40 425 LED Music 41 426
Light-Controlled LED Time Delay
41 427
Touch-Controlled LED Time Delay
41 428 Alarm Recorder 42 429 Alarm Recorder (II) 42 430 Machine Gun Recorder 42 431 Time Delay 1-7 Seconds 43 432 Time Delay 43 433 Manual 7 Second Timer (II) 44 434 15 Second Alarm 44 435 Flashing “1 & 2” 45 436 Flashing “3 & 4” 45 437 Flashing “5 & 6” 45 438 Flashing “7 & 8” 45 439 Flashing “9 & 0” 45 440 Flashing “b & c” 46 441 Flashing “d & e” 46 442 Flashing “h & o” 46
Project # Description Page #
443 Flashing “A & J” 46 444
Alar
m Timer 46 445 Alarm Timer (II) 46 446 Alarm Timer (III) 46 447 Bird Sounds 47 448 Bird Sounds (II) 47 449 Bird Sounds (III) 47 450 Bird Sounds (IV) 47 451 Bird Sounds (V) 47 452 Touch-Control Bird Sound 47 453 Motor Sound Recording 48 454 Motor Sound Indicator 48 455 Relay & Buzzer 49 456 Relay & Speaker 49 457 Electronic Playground 49 458 Electronic Cat 50 459 Electronic Cat (II) 50 460 Electronic Cat (III) 50 461 Electronic Cat (IV) 50 462 Buzzer Cat 50 463 Buzzer Cat (II) 50 464 Buzzer Cat (III) 50 465 Lazy Cat 50 466 Meter Deflection (II) 51 467 Automatic Display #1 51 468 Automatic Display #2 51 469 Automatic Display #3 52 470 Automatic Display #4 52 471 Automatic Display #5 52 472 Automatic Display #6 52 473 Automatic Display #7 52 474 Automatic Display #8 52 475 Automatic Display #9 52 476 Automatic Display #0 52 477 Variable Oscillator 53
Project # Description Page #
478 Variable Oscillator (II) 53 479
V
ariable Oscillator (III) 53 480 Variable Oscillator (IV) 53 481 Photo V ariable Resistor 53 482 Variable Whistle Chip Oscillator 53 483 Slow Adjusting Tone 53 484 Slow Adjusting Tone (II) 53 485 Fixed-Current Path 54 486 Simple Illumination Meter 54 487 LED V oltage Drop 55 488 Open/Closed Door Indicator 55 489 Hand-Control Meter 56 490 Light-Control Meter 56 491 Electric-Control Meter 56 492 Sound-Control Meter 56 493 Fixed-Voltage Divider 57 494 Resistor Measurement 57 495 Automatic Display Letter “b” 58 496 Automatic Display Letter “c” 58 497 Automatic Display Letter “d” 58 498 Automatic Display Letter “e” 58 499 Automatic Display Letter “h” 58 500 Automatic Display Letter “o” 58 501 Hand-Control Display 1 & 4 59 502 Hand-Control Display 1 & 0 59 503 Hand-Control Display 1 & 7 59 504 Hand-Control Display 1 & 8 59 505 Hand-Control Display 1 & 9 59 506
Monitor Capacitor Charging & Discharging
60 507 Hand-Control Space Meter 60 508 Rhythm Swinging Meter 61 509
Police Car Sound with Whistle Chip
61 510
Fire Engine Sound with Whistle Chip
61 511
Ambulance Sound with Whistle Chip
61
Project Listings
-8-
Project #306
OBJECTIVE: To build a one-IC AM radio.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and adjust the variable capacitor (CV) for a radio station. Make sure you set the variable resistor (RV) control to the left for louder sound.
AM Radio
Project #307
OBJECTIVE: To build a working FM radio with adjustable volume.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and press the R button. Now press the T button and FM module (FM) scans for a radio station. When a station is found, it locks on to it and you hear it on the speaker (SP). Adjust the volume using the adjustable resistor (RV). The resistor controls the amount of signal into the power amplifier IC (U4). Press the T button again for the next radio station. The module will scan up to 108MHz, the end of the FM band, and stop. You must then press reset (R) to start at 88MHz again.
Adjustable Volume
FM Radio
-9-
Project #308
Build the circuit shown. Turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a beep signaling that you may begin recording. Talk into the microphone (X1) up to 5 seconds, and then turn off the slide switch (it also beeps after the 5 seconds expires).
Press the press switch (S2) for playback. It plays the recording you made followed by one of three songs. If you press the press switch before the song is over, music will stop. You may press the press switch several times to play all three songs. The lamp (L2) is used to limit current and will not light.
Playback & Record
OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the capabilities of the recording integrated circuit.
OBJECTIVE: To play the three built-in songs on the recording IC.
Use the circuit in project #308. Turn on the slide switch (S1), then press the press switch (S2) to start the first song. When the music stops, press the press switch again to hear the second song. When the second song stops, press the press switch again, the third song plays.
Playing Music
Project #309
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit that uses light to control the recording IC.
Light-
Controlled
Music
Project #310
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit that lets you control the recording IC with your fingers.
Touch-
Controlled
Music
Project #311
Use the circuit in project #308. Replace the press switch (S2) with the photoresistor (RP), then turn on the slide switch (S1). Turn the music on and off by waving your hand over photoresistor.
Use the circuit in project #308. Place a single snap on base grid point F1. Replace the press switch (S2) with the PNP transistor (Q1, with the arrow on point E2) and then turn on the slide switch (S1). Turn the music on and off by touching points F1 & G2 at the same time. You may need to wet your fingers.
Visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 62 to learn about Snap Circuits®upgrade kits, which have more parts and circuits.
-10-
Project #312
Connecting the power amplifier IC (U4) to the output of the recording IC (U6), you can make much louder music than project #308.
Turn on the switch (S1), you hear a beep signaling that you may begin recording. Talk into the microphone up to 5 seconds, and then tur n open the switch (it also beeps after the 5 seconds expires).
Press the press switch (S2) for playback. It plays the recording you made followed by one of three songs. If you press switch (S2) before the song is over, music will stop. You may press the press switch several times to play all three songs.
Power Playback &
Record
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit that amplifies the recording IC.
OBJECTIVE: To amplify the output of the recording IC.
Use the circuit in project #312. Turn on the switch (S1), then press the press switch (S2) to start the first song. When the music stops, press the press switch again to hear the second song. When the second song stops, press the press switch again, the third song plays.
Power
Amplified
Playing Music
Project #313
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #312.
Power Light-
Controlled
Music
Project #314
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #312.
Power Touch-
Controlled
Music
Project #315
Use the circuit in project #312. Replace the press switch (S2) with the photoresistor (RP), then turn on the switch (S1). Tur n the music on and off by waving your hand over photoresistor.
Use the circuit in project #312. Place a single snap on base grid point F1. Replace the press switch (S2) with the PNP transistor (Q1, with the arrow on point E2) and then turn on the slide switch (S1). Turn the music on and off by touching points F1 & G2 at the same time. You may need to wet your fingers.
-11-
Project #316
OBJECTIVE: To build a working FM radio.
The FM module (FM) contains a scan (T) and a reset (R) button. The R button resets the frequency to 88MHz. This is the beginning of the FM range. Press the T button, the module scans for the next available radio station.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and press the R button. Now press the T button and the FM module scans for an available radio station. When a station is found, it locks on to it and y ou hear it on the speaker. Press the T button again for the next radio station. The module will scan up to 108MHz, the end of the FM band, and stop. You must then press the reset (R) button to start at 88MHz again.
FM Radio
Project #317
OBJECTIVE: To build a complex circuit.
Note that there is a 3-snap wire between RV and U4, partially hidden under R4.
This is an example of using many parts to create an unusual circuit. Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Turn on the slide switch (S1). As the circuit oscillates, the 7-segment display (D7) flashes the number 5 and the LED’s (D1 & D2) flash as well. The meter deflects back and forth and the speaker (SP) sounds a low tone at the same rate. The frequency of the circuit can be changed by adjusting the adjustable resistor (RV).
Next, place the 100Ω resistor (R1) directly over the diode (D3) using a 1-snap. See how this changes the circuit performance.
Mega Circuit
-12-
Project #318
OBJECTIVE: To learn the principle of an SCR.
This circuit demonstrates the principle of the SCR (Q3). The SCR can be thought of as an electronic switch with three leads: anode, cathode , and gate. Like a standard diode, it permits current flow in only one direction. It will only conduct in the forward direction when triggered by a short pulse or steady voltage applied between the gate and cathode terminals. One set of batteries powers the lamp, the other is used to trigger the SCR.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the bulb (L1) should not light. Now press the press switch (S2); the SCR tur ns on and lights the bulb. To turn off the bulb you must turn off the slide switch (S1).
SCR 2.5V Bulb
Project #319
OBJECTIVE: To activate a motor using an SCR.
SCR & Motor
Place the fan onto the motor (M1). In this circuit, the gate is connected to the battery (B1) through the 1KΩ resistor (R2). When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, it triggers the gate, the SCR (Q3) conducts, and the motor spins. The motor continues to spin until the switch is turned off.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 62 to find out about our Student Guides.
-13-
Project #320
OBJECTIVE: To build a music alarm.
The alarm circuit activates when you remove the jumper wire from points A & B. The jumper wire shorts the SCR’s (Q3) gate to ground and the SCR does not conduct. Removing the jumper wire places a voltage on the gate and the SCR conducts. This connects the battery to the music IC (U1) and music is played.
Construct the circuit and you should hear no music. Now remove the jumper wire and the music starts playing.
Music Alarm
Project #321
OBJECTIVE: To build a light-music alarm.
Light-Music Alarm
Use the circuit in project #320. Replace the resistor R3 with the photoresistor (RP) and remove the jumper wire. Cover the photoresistor with your hand. Now slowly remove your hand. When enough light hits the resistor, the music plays.
Project #322
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit that activates a bulb and motor with the amount of light present.
Cover the photoresistor (RP) with your finger. Turn on the switch (S1), and only the LED (D1) lights. The relay (S3) connects the motor (M1) and the bulb (L2) to the batteries, but the motor and bulb are powerless until a voltage is applied to the SCR's gate.
Remove your finger, as light hits the photoresistor, its resistance decreases and a voltage appears on the gate of the SCR (Q3). The SCR conducts and the motor and bulb work now.
Light-controlled SCR
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-14-
Project #323
OBJECTIVE: To build a 3mA meter circuit.
3mA Meter
Project #324
OBJECTIVE: To build a voltmeter.
0-3V Voltmeter
Build this 0-3V voltmeter circuit. Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Using new batteries, place the battery holder between points A & B. Adjust the adjustable resistor (RV) so the meter deflects full scale.
Now you can check y our other “AA” batteries b y inserting them into the battery holder.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Inside the meter, there is a fixed magnet and a mov eable coil around it. As current flows through the coil, it creates a magnetic field. The interaction of the two magnetic fields cause the coil (connected to the pointer) to move (deflect). By itself, the meter can measure 300μA. To increase its range, resistors are connected in parallel or in series to the meter.
Build the circuit shown. Placing the 100Ω resistor (R1) in parallel with the meter increases the range by 10 times to 3mA. More current flows through the resistor than the meter. The lower the resistor value, the wider the range of the meter.
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Project #325
OBJECTIVE: To understand the function of the adjustable resistor.
An adjustable resistor is a normal resistor with an additional arm contact. The arm moves along the resistive material and taps off the desired resistance.
The slider on the adjustable resistor moves the arm contact and sets the resistance between the bottom (point C1) pin and the center pin (point B2). The remaining resistance is between the center and top pin. For example, when the slider is all the way down, there is minimal resistance between the bottom and center pins (usually 0Ω) and maximum resistance between the center and top pins. The resistance between the top (point A1) and bottom (point A3) pins will always be the total resistance, (50kΩ for your part).
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Adjust the adjustable resistor (RV) for maximum resistance by setting the slider to the top. The meter only deflects part of the way. As you move the slider down, decreasing the resistance, the meter deflects more.
Function of
Adjustable Resistor
Project #326
OBJECTIVE: To understand the function of the photoresistor.
Build the circuit shown. Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. The photoresistor (RP) is a light-sensitive resistor. Its value changes from nearly infinite in total darkness to about 1,000Ω when a bright light shines on it.
The meter reading changes as the resistance changes in the circuit. When the lights are on, the meter points to a higher number on the scale. When the lights are OFF, the pointer will point to a lower number on the scale. This means that the resistance of the photoresistor is changing according to the amount of light in the room.
Function of
photoresistor
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Project #328
OBJECTIVE: To learn the principle of an SCR.
In this circuit, the 6-volt bulb (L2) will not light until the SCR (Q3) is triggered. T urn on the slide switch (S1) and the b ulb will not light. Now press the press switch (S2) to light the bulb. The bulb will stay lit until the slide switch is turned off. To protect the SCR, a current limiting 1kΩ resistor (R2) is placed in series with the gate.
SCR 6V Bulb
Project #327
OBJECTIVE: To change the direction of current flow using a motor.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. A motor generates a current when it rotates. The rotation of the motor determines the direction current flows. Quickly spin the motor (M1) clockwise with your hand; the meter deflects to the right. Now spin the motor counterclockwise, and the meter deflects to the left.
Meter Deflect
by Motor
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Project #329
OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate how a seven segment LED works.
The display (D7) is made up of seven segments. Each segment contains an LED connected to an input snap. When the snap is connected to the negative of the battery the segment lights. For example, connect the circuit as shown and the letter “L” lights.
Principle of
Segment LED
Project #330
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 1.
Connect B & C to the negative of the battery.
Display #1
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 2.
Connect A, B, G, E, & D to the negative of the battery.
Display #2
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 3.
Connect A, B, G, C, & D to the negativ e of the battery.
Display #3
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 4.
Connect B, C, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display #4
Project #331
Project #332 Project #333
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Project #334
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 5.
Connect A, F, G, C, & D to the negative of the battery.
Display #5
Project #335
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 6.
Connect A, C, D, E, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display #6
Project #336
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 7.
Connect A, B, & C to the negative of the battery.
Display #7
Project #337
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 8.
Connect A, B, C, D, E, F & G to the negative of the battery.
Display #8
Project #338
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 9.
Connect A, B, C, D, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display #9
Project #339
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the number 0.
Connect A, B, C, D, E, & F to the negative of the battery.
Display #0
Project #340
OBJECTIVE: See and hear the output of the music IC.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. In this circuit, the output of the music IC (U1) is applied to the less windings side of the transformer (T1), which lights the LED (D1) and deflects the meter.
Place the adjustable resistor (RV) to the bottom position and turn on the switch (S1). Adjust the adjustable resistor upwards. This increases the voltage across the LED and meter. The LED brightens and the meter deflects more towards 10. Place the speaker (SP) across points A & B and use a jumper wire to complete the connection. Now you can hear and see the output of the music IC.
Music Meter
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Project #341
OBJECTIVE: Turn on and off LED’s using a relay.
A relay is an electronic switch with contacts that are opened or closed using voltage. It contains a coil that generates a magnetic field when a current flows through it. The magnetic field attracts an iron armature which switches the contacts. Contact #2 is normally closed, connecting the green LED (D2) and the resistor across the batteries.
With the slide slide switch (S1) turned off, the green LED should light. Now turn on the switch, contact #1 on the relay (S3) will switch to contact #3, lighting the red LED (D1).
LED & Relay
Project #342
OBJECTIVE: To build a manual timer using a relay.
The transistor (Q2) acts as a switch, connecting the relay (S3) to the batteries. As long as there is positive voltage on the transistor’s base, the bulb (L2) will light.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and hold down the press switch (S2). The transistor turns on, capacitor C5 charges up, and the bulb lights. When the press switch is released, the capacitor discharges through the base, keeping the transistor on. The transistor will turn off when the capacitor is almost discharged, about 7 seconds. The relay contacts will switch and the bulb will turn off.
Change the value of the capacitor and see what happens.
Manual
7 Second Timer
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Project #343
OBJECTIVE: To build a half wave rectifier circuit.
A rectifier changes an AC voltage into a DC voltage. A diode (D1) is used because it allows current to flow in only one direction, for one polarity of applied voltage. As the contacts open and close, it generates an AC voltage across the transformer (T1). We can measure the DC current from the transformer’s output using a resistor (R2), a diode (D1), and a meter (M2). Set the meter to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Turn on the slide switch (S1), the LED lights as the meter points past the 5 scale.
Half Wave
Rectifier Circuit
OBJECTIVE: Measure the voltage using the center-tap.
Use the circuit in project #343. Now see what happens if you connect to the center-tap on the side with more windings. Place the meter (M2) across points A & B, then turn on the switch (S1). The needle should deflect less, about half as much as project #343. As you use less windings, the output decreases.
Half Wave
Rectifier
Circuit (II)
Project #344
OBJECTIVE: To see the voltage difference between an LED and diode.
Use the circuit in project #343. Replace the LED (D1) with the diode (D3) and turn on the switch (S1). The needle deflects higher, because the voltage drop across the diode is less than the voltage drop across the LED.
LED vs. Diode
Project #345
OBJECTIVE: See how resistance affects current.
Change the 1kΩ (R2) resistor to a 5.1kΩ (R3) and turn on the switch (S1). You will see that increasing the resistance decreases the current through the meter (M2).
Current &
Resistance
Project #346
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Project #347
OBJECTIVE: Making telegraph sounds.
Press the press switch (S2) down. The circuit oscillates and the AC voltage generated from the transformer (T1) drives the speaker (SP). To make a telegraph sound, depress the switch for long and short periods.
Telegraph
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #347.
Use the circuit in project #347. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points B & E.
Mosquito
Sound (II)
Project #349
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #347.
Mosquito
Sound (III)
Project #350
OBJECTIVE: To use the photoresistor to adjust the oscillator sound.
Touch-Control
Mosquito Sound
Project #351
OBJECTIVE: Use the whistle chip to make a mosquito sound.
Use the circuit in project #347. Remove the speaker (SP). Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points C & D to make a mosquito sound.
Mosquito Sound
Project #348
Use the circuit in project #347. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points E & D (place it beneath capacitor (C2) or use the jumper wires).
Use the circuit in project #347. Replace the 100kΩ resistor (R5) with the photoresistor (RP). Wave your hand over the resistor and the sound changes.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 62 to find out about our Student Guides.
-22-
Project #353
OBJECTIVE: To make a relay buzzer.
When you turn on the switch (S1), you should hear a buzzing sound from the relay (S3). The sound is caused by the relay’s contacts opening and closing at a fast rate.
Relay Buzzer
Project #352
OBJECTIVE: Light a bulb using a relay.
Bulb & Relay
Turn off the slide switch (S1). If you press switch (S2), the lamp (L2) will not light. T urn on the slide switch and press the press s witch again; the lamp lights and stays on until the slide switch is turned off. This circuit remembers that the press switch was pressed. Turn the slide switch off and back on again. The lamp will be off until the press switch is pressed, then the lamp will stay on. Computers use memory circuits to remember states like on and off.
Project #355
OBJECTIVE: To use a photoresistor to control a relay.
Under normal light, the resistance of the photoresistor (RP) is low, allowing a voltage at the base of the transistor (Q2). This tur ns the transistor on, connecting the relay (S3) across the batteries, and the bulb (L2) lights. If the light decreases, the resistance increases and the voltage to Q2 drops. If the voltage at Q2 decreases enough, the transistor turns off. Tur n on the slide switch (S1) and the bulb lights. Now as you block the light from the photoresistor, the bulb turns off.
Light-controlled Relay
OBJECTIVE: Make a warning system that lights the bulb.
Replace the photoresistor (RP) with a 10kΩ resistor (R4). Connect the wire to points A & B. As long as the wire is connected, the transistor (Q2) is off and the relay (S3) and bulb (L2) are not powered. Disconnect the wire. The relay contacts will switch and the bulb will light.
Bulb Alert Relay
Project #356
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Project #354
OBJECTIVE: To build a manual timer using a transistor in place of the relay.
This circuit is similar to project #342 except now two transistors are used. Tur n on the slide switch (S1) and hold down the press switch (S2). The transistors (Q1 & Q2) turn on, the capacitor (C3) charges up, and the bulb (L2) lights. When the press switch (S2) is released, the capacitor discharges through the base, keeping the transistors on. The transistors will turn off when the capacitor is almost discharged (about 1 minute). The relay (S3) contacts will switch and the bulb will turn off.
Transistor Timer
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Project #357
OBJECTIVE: Build an adjustable light-controlled relay.
You can set the amount of light it takes to keep the bulb (L2) on by adjusting the adjustable resistor (RV). Set the adjustable resistor to the top position and turn on the switch. The bulb lights. Cover the photoresistor (RP) and the bulb turns off. Set the adjustable resistor to different positions and then cover the photoresistor. Note that only the top half of the adjustable resistor affects the circuit. If you position it below the middle, the bulb stays off.
Adjustable Light
Control
Project #358
OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the properties of a transformer.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Pressing the press switch (S2) generates a current on the left side of the transf ormer (T1). The current lights the LED’s (D1 & D2) and deflects the meter. There are two current paths as shown by the arrows. Placing the meter in both current paths always measures each current. The top current is produced when the press switch is pressed and the bottom current is produced when the press switch is released.
Meter Deflection
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Project #360
OBJECTIVE: To measure the current through a transformer.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. By placing the meter, diode (D3) and current limiting resistor (R4) on the transfor mer (T1), you can measure the current. Turn on the slide slide switch (S1) and the motor (M1) starts spinning. The current on the right side of the transformer creates a current on the left side using magnetism.
Current Meter
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Project #359
OBJECTIVE: To convert an AC current to DC using an LED.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Pressing and releasing the press switch (S2) continuously generates an AC (changing) current. The LED (D1) is used to convert the AC (changing) current to DC (unchanging) current because it only allows the current to flow in one direction. The LED should light as the meter deflects to the right only. Without the LED, the meter would deflect in both directions.
AC to DC Current
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
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Project #361
OBJECTIVE:
To use a transformer for a louder buzzer.
Turn on the switch (S1). The speaker (SP) generates a buzzer sound. As in project #353, the relay (S3) is rapidly switched on and off. This causes an AC voltage on the left side of the transfor mer (T1). The voltage is stepped-down and applied to the speaker, generating the sound.
To make the sound a little louder, replace the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) with a 3-snap wire.
Buzzer, Relay, &
Transformer
Project #362
OBJECTIVE: Make a relay buzzer with speaker.
A speaker (SP) and capacitor (C2) are placed across the coil of the relay (S3). When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, the relay’s contacts open and close as in project #353. As the capacitor (C2) charges and discharges, the speaker generates a buzzing sound.
Buzzer & Relay
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Project #363
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the capital letter “F”.
Connect A, E, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display Capital
Letter “F”
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the capital letter “H”.
Connect B, C, E, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display Capital
Letter “H”
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the capital letter “P”.
Connect A, B, E, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display Capital
Letter “P”
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the capital letter “S”.
Connect A, F, G, C, & D to the negative of the battery.
Display Capital
Letter “S”
Project #364
Project #365 Project #366
Project #367
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the capital letter “U”.
Connect B, C, D, E, & F to the negative of the battery.
Display Capital
Letter “U”
Project #370
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the decimal (DP).
Connect DP to the negative of the battery.
Display “.”
Project #369
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the capital letter “E”.
Connect A, D, E, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display Capital
Letter “E”
Project #368
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the capital letter “C”.
Connect A, D, E, & F to the negative of the battery.
Display Capital
Letter “C”
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Project #376
OBJECTIVE: To hear your voice on the radio.
You need an AM radio for this project. Build the circuit sho wn and place it next to your AM radio. Tune the radio frequency to where no other station is transmitting. Push the press switch (S2); the red LED (D1) should light for a while, indicating that music is being transmitted to your radio. Tune the adjustable capacitor (CV) and the radio volume control until the music sounds best on the radio. Wait until the music stops.
Turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a beep signaling that you may begin recording. Talk into the microphone (X1) up to 8 seconds, and then turn off the slide switch (it also beeps after the 8 seconds expires).
Press the press switch (S2) for playback. It plays the recording you made followed by one of three songs. If you press the press switch before the song is over, music will stop. You may press the press switch several times to play all three songs.
Recorded Voice Transmitter
Project
#371
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the letter “b”.
Connect C, D, E, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display
Letter “b”
Project
#372
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the letter “c”.
Connect A, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display
Letter “c”
Project
#373
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the letter “d”.
Connect B, C, D, E, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display
Letter “d”
Project
#374
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the letter “e”.
Connect A, B, D, E, F, & G to the negative of the battery.
Display
Letter “e”
Project
#375
OBJECTIVE: To configure the seven segment to display the letter “h”.
Connect F, E, G, & C to the negative of the battery.
Display
Letter “h”
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Project #377
OBJECTIVE: To build an alarm circuit.
The circuit uses the space war IC (U3) and works the same way as project #320. Remove the jumper wire and a space war sound plays.
Space War Alarm by SCR
Project #379
OBJECTIVE: To build an alarm circuit.
Alarm by SCR
Project #378
OBJECTIVE: To build an alarm circuit.
Use the circuit in project #377. Replace the resistor (R3) with the photoresistor (RP) and remove the jumper wire. Cover the photoresistor with your hand. Now slowly remove your hand. The music plays when enough light hits the resistor.
Light Space War Alarm
The circuit uses the alarm IC (U2) and works the same way as project #377. Remove the jumper wire and an alarm IC sounds.
Project #380
OBJECTIVE: To build an alarm circuit.
Use the circuit in project #379. Replace the 10kΩ resistor (R4) with the photoresistor (RP) and remove the jumper wire. When enough light strikes the photoresistor, the Alarm IC (U2) plays. Cover the photoresistor with your hand. Now slo wly remov e it, when enough light hits the resistor, the IC plays.
Light & Alarm IC
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Project #381
OBJECTIVE: To construct a time delay circuit.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the bulb (L2) does not light. Press switch (S2) and slowly the bulb lights.
When the press switch is pressed, current flows to the base of the transistor (Q2) and charges the 100μF capacitor (C4). When the capacitor charges up to more than 1 volt, the transistor (Q2) turns on and triggers the SCR (Q3). The bulb will stay lit until the slide switch is turned off. The values R5 and C4 determine the time it takes until the transistor turns on. The larger the capacitor value, the more time it takes to turn on.
Delay Light
Project #382 Project #383
OBJECTIVE: To construct a time delay fan.
Delay Fan
OBJECTIVE: To build a sound activated fan.
Sound Activated Fan
Use the circuit in project #381. Replace the lamp (L2) with the motor (M1) and fan, then replace the 3-snap (base grid locations E6-G6) with the lamp (L2). Turn on slide switch (S1) and press down the press s witch (S2) to start the motor.
Now replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with the 470μF capacitor (C5). Turn on slide switch (S1) and press switch (S2). See how long it takes until the motor (M1) spins.
Build the circuit as shown. Place the fan on the motor (M1). Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) toward towards the 100kΩ resistor (R5). Clap to start the motor.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 62 to find out about our Student Guides.
!
WARNING: Moving parts.
Do not touch the fan or motor during operation. Do not lean over the motor.
-31-
Project #384
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit that lights an LED to indicate the recording mode.
Recording LED
Indicator
Project #385
OBJECTIVE: To add a volt meter to the playback and record circuit.
When recording, if the input signal into the microphone (X1) is too high, distortion can occur. To monitor the level, a meter (M2) is placed in series with the microphone.
Set the meter to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the meter defects to the right. As you speak into the microphone, the meter indicates the change in current. Turn the switch off and then on to record again, but this time speak louder . Y ou will find that the louder you speak, the more the meter deflects.
The lamp (L2)
is used to limit current and will not light.
Playback & Record
with Meter
The circuit uses sound (beep) and light (LED) to indicate that you are recording. Build the circuit; the red (D1) and green (D2) LED’s should light. Now turn on the slide switch (S1). You hear one beep and the green LED turns off. Speak into the microphone (X1) to record a message. When you turn off the slide switch, or the circuit beeps twice (indicating the recording is finished), the green LED turns on again. Make sure that the slide switch is turned off. Press the press switch to hear your recording followed by a song. The lamp (L2) is used to limit current and will not light.
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Project #386
OBJECTIVE: To light a bulb to indicate an open circuit.
Alarm Light
Project #387 Alarm Light (II)
This is another example of a alarm that activates when the circuit is broken. Connect the jumper wire across points A & B and then tur n on the slide switch (S1). The lamp (L2) will not light until the jumper wire is disconnected. Then the lamp will not turn off. Turn off the switch to turn the lamp off again. This circuit remembers if there was a break in the connection.
OBJECTIVE: To light a bulb to indicate an open circuit.
This project is similar to project #386, but uses a transistor (Q2). The lamp (L2) will not light until the jumper wire is disconnected. The jumper wire grounds the base of the transistor , keeping it off. Remove the jumper and the voltage on the base rises; turning the transistor and SCR (Q3) on, and lighting the lamp. Note, the adjustable resistor (RV) is used as a fixed value. Once the SCR is triggered, it will light the lamp even if the jumper wire is replaced. Turn the slide switch (S1) off to turn off the lamp.
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Project #388
OBJECTIVE: To build a night-sensitive police car sound.
As the photoresistor (RP) is exposed to light, its resistance is very low, thereby connecting the gate of the SCR (Q3) to ground. This prevents the SCR from conducting, connecting the alarm IC (U2) to the batteries. The alarm IC remains off until the light is blocked, triggering the SCR. If the light in the room is not bright, the IC may turn on.
Wav e y our hands ov er the photoresistor . Block the light with your hand and the speaker (SP) sounds.
Night Police Car
OBJECTIVE: To build a night-sensitive machine gun sound.
Use the circuit from project #388. Connect the jumper wire to points B & C for a machine gun sound.
Night
Machine Gun
Project #389
OBJECTIVE: To build a night-sensitive fire engine sound.
Night
Fire Engine
Project #390
OBJECTIVE: To build a night-sensitive ambulance sound.
Night
Ambulance
Project #391
Use the circuit from project #388. Connect the jumper wire to points A & B for a fire engine sound.
Use the circuit from project #388. Connect the jumper wire to points A & D for an ambulance sound.
Visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 62 to learn about more Snap Circuits®products to add to your collection.
-34-
Project #392
OBJECTIVE: To build a light-sensitive police car sound.
As long as the photoresistor (RP) is exposed to light, the alarm IC (U2) outputs a signal to the speaker (SP). Block the light with your hand and the sound will stop.
Daytime Light
Police Car
OBJECTIVE: To build a light-sensitive machine gun sound.
Use the circuit from project #392. Connect the jumper wire to points B & C. The sound of a machine gun will be heard when the room is not dark.
Daytime Light
Machine Gun
Project #393
OBJECTIVE: To build a light-sensitive fire engine sound.
Daytime Light
Fire Engine
Project #394
OBJECTIVE: To build a light-sensitive ambulance sound.
Daytime Light
Ambulance
Project #395
Use the circuit from project #392. Connect the jumper wire to points A & B for a fire engine sound, when room is not dark.
Use the circuit from project #392. Connect the jumper wire to points A & D for an ambulance sound.
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Project #396 Flashing 8
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the number “8”.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the number 8 starts flashing. The segments are powered by connecting them to the IC’s (U2) output.
Flashing 8 with Sound
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit so you can hear and see the 8 flash.
Use the circuit in project #396. Connect the speaker (SP) across points X & Y to see and hear the IC’s (U2) output.
Project #397
Project #398
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and you hear space war sounds as the lamp (L1) flashes. If you wave your hand over the photoresistor (RP), the sound changes. If you keep the photoresistor covered, then the sound will stop.
Press the press switch (S2) and you will hear music in addition to any space war sounds that are playing. Press the press switch again to change the music. You will also hear any recording you had made previously with other projects.
Replace the lamp with the 100Ω resistor (R1) to reduce the loudness.
Musical Space War
OBJECTIVE: To combine the sound effects of the recorder and space war integrated circuits.
-36-
Project #399
OBJECTIVE: To make different tones with an oscillator.
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a high­frequency tone. Press the press switch (S2) and move the adjustable resistor (RV) control around to change to frequency of the tone. Replace the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) with the 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” on the right) to lower the frequency of the tone.
Electronic Noisemaker
OBJECTIVE: To show a variation of project #399.
You can also change the frequency by changing the resistance in the oscillator. Replace the 10KΩ resistor (R4) with the 100KΩ resistor (R5), this can be done with either the 0.1μF (C2) or 10μF (C3) capacitors in the circuit.
Electronic Noisemaker (II)
Project #400
Project #401
OBJECTIVE:
To make different sounds with an oscillator.
Build the circuit and press the press switch (S2) a few times, you hear cute sounds like a bumble bee. Replace the 0.02μF capacitor (C1) with 0.1μF capacitor (C2) or 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” on the right) to change the sound.
Bee
OBJECTIVE: Show a variation of project #401.
Place the 0.02μF capacitor (C1) back in the circuit. Remove the speaker (S1) from the circuit and place the whistle chip (WC) across the transformer (T1) at points labeled A & B on the circuit layout. Listen to the sounds as you press the press switch (S2). Replace the 0.02μF capacitor (C1) with 0.1μF capacitor (C2) or 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” on the right) to change the sound.
Bee (II)
Project #402
Bee (III)
Project #403
OBJECTIVE: Show a variation of project #401.
Replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with the 10μF capacitor (C3) or the 470μF capacitor (C5) to change the duration of the sound. Use either the speaker circuit in project #401 or the whistle chip circuit in project #402.
Visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 62 to learn about Snap Circuits®upgrade kits, which have more parts and circuits.
-37-
Project #404
OBJECTIVE: Build an oscillator circuit.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the LED (D1) lights as the speaker (SP) emits a tone. The circuit oscillates and generates an AC voltage across the speaker through the transformer (T1).
Oscillator Sound
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #404.
Use the circuit in project #404. Place the whistle chip (WC) in parallel with the capacitor (C2) by placing it on the left side of the transformer (T1). T urn on the slide switch (S1) and you now hear a lower tone.
Oscillator
Sound (III)
Project #406
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #404.
Oscillator
Sound (IV)
Project #407
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #404.
Oscillator Sound (V)
Project #408
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #404.
Use the circuit in project #404. In this circuit, you will change the tone by adding more capacitance. Place the whistle chip (WC) on top of capacitor (C1). T urn on the slide switch (S1) and y ou now hear a lo wer tone. Adding the more capacitance lowers the oscillating frequency.
Oscillator Sound (II)
Project #405
Use the circuit in project #404. Using a 1­snap, place the 10μF capacitor (C3) on top of the 100kΩ resistor (R5), with the “+” side on point A1. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and you should hear a much lower sound then the previous projects.
Use the circuit in project #404. Replace the 100kΩ resistor (R5) with the photoresistor (RP). Wave your hand over the photoresistor. Now, as the resistance changes, so does the oscillator frequency.
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Project #409
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit that checks the transistor.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Turn on the switch (S1), the meter does not move. Press the switch (S2), the meter deflects and points to 10. This indicates the transistor (Q2) is GOOD. The meter would only deflect a little or not at all for a BAD transistor.
Transistor Tester
Project #410
OBJECTIVE: To make an adjustable current path.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. This circuit is a simple voltage divider. When the adjustable resistor (RV) is set to the far right, the voltage across the resistors (R4) and (RV) are equal. Adjust resistor (RV) to the left, the meter deflects less, as the voltage decreases.
Adjustable Voltage
Divider
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OBJECTIVE: To construct a flashing display for the capital letter C.
Connect segments A, D, E & F to the circuit. Tur n on the switch (S1), the display flashes and the whistle chip (WC) buzzes on and off.
Automatic Display Capital Letter “C”
Project #411
OBJECTIVE: To construct a flashing display for the capital letter E.
Use the circuit from project #411. Connect A, D, E, F, & G to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display flashes and the whistle chip (WC) buzzes on and off.
Automatic Display Capital Letter “E”
Project #412
Project #413
OBJECTIVE: To construct a flashing display for the capital letter F.
Use the circuit from project #411. Connect A, E, F, & G to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display flashes and the whistle chip (WC) buzzes on and off.
Automatic Display
Capital Letter “F”
Project #414
OBJECTIVE: To construct a flashing display for the capital letter H.
Use the circuit from project #411. Connect B, C, E , F, & G to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display flashes and the whistle chip (WC) buzzes on and off.
Automatic Display
Capital Letter “H”
Project #415
OBJECTIVE: To construct a flashing display for the capital letter P.
Use the circuit from project #411. Connect A, B, E, F, & G to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display flashes and the whistle chip (WC) buzzes on and off.
Automatic Display
Capital Letter “P”
Project #416
OBJECTIVE: To construct a flashing display for the capital letter S.
Use the circuit from project #411. Connect A, F, G, C, & D to the circuit. Tur n on the switch (S1), the display flashes and the whistle chip (WC) buzzes on and off.
Automatic Display
Capital Letter “S”
Project #417
OBJECTIVE: To construct a flashing display for the capital letter U.
Use the circuit from project #411. Connect B, C, D, E, & F to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display flashes and the whistle chip (WC) buzzes on and off.
Automatic Display
Capital Letter “U”
Project #418
OBJECTIVE: To construct a flashing display for the capital letter L.
Use the circuit from project #411. Connect D, E, & F to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display flashes and the whistle chip (WC) buzzes on and off.
Automatic Display
Capital Letter “L”
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OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #419.
Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points B & C.
Whistle Chip Sounds (II)
Project #420
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #419.
Whistle Chip
Sounds (III)
Project #421
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #419.
Whistle Chip Sounds (VI)
Project #424
OBJECTIVE: To make sounds from the whistle chip.
Turn on the switch (S1). As the circuit oscillates, the plate in the whistle chip vibrates and generates sound.
Whistle Chip Sounds
Project #419
Use the circuit in project #419. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points C & D. You should hear a faster sound.
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #419.
Whistle Chip
Sounds (V)
Project #423
Use the circuit in project #419
, but replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with
the 470μF capacitor (C5).
Use the circuit in project #419, but replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with the 10μF capacitor (C3).
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #419.
Whistle Chip Sounds (IV)
Project #422
Use the circuit in project #419, but replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with the 10μF capacitor (C3) and connect the whistle chip across points B & C. You can also connect the whistle chip across points C & D.
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Project #425
OBJECTIVE: To light the LED’s using the recording IC.
The recording IC (U6) lights the LED’s (D1 & D2) instead of driving the speaker (SP). Press the press switch (S2) once. The LED’s light and then turn off after a while. Press the press switch again and see how long the second song plays. When the second song stops, press the press switch (S2) again to play the third song.
LED Music
Project #426 Project #427
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #425.
Light-controlled LED
Time Delay
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #425.
Touch-controlled LED
Time Delay
Use the circuit in project #425. Replace the press switch (S2) with the photoresistor (RP). Tur n the LED’s on and off by waving your hand over the photoresistor.
Use the circuit in project #425. Replace the press switch (S2) with the PNP transistor (Q1, arrow on U6 and a 1-snap on point F1). Turn the LED’s on and off by touching grid points F1 & G2 at the same time. You may need to wet your fingers.
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Project #428
OBJECTIVE: To record the sound from the alarm IC.
The circuit records the sound from the alarm IC (U2) into the recording IC (U6). Tur n on the switch (S1). The first beep indicates that the IC has begun recording. When you hear two beeps, the recording has stopped. Turn off the slide switch (S1) and press the switch (S2). You will hear the recording of the alarm IC before each song is played. The lamp (L2) is used to limit current and will not light.
Alarm Recorder
Project #429 Project #430
OBJECTIVE: Record the sound from the alarm IC.
Alarm Recorder (II)
OBJECTIVE: To record the sound of a machine gun.
Machine Gun Recorder
Use the circuit in project #428. Remove the 2-snap from A1 to B1. Turn on the switch (S1). The first beep indicates that the IC (U6) has begun recording. When you hear two beeps, turn off the switch (S1), press the switch (S2), and the new recording plays.
Use the circuit in project #428. Move the 2-snap from A1 - B1 to 3A ­3B. Turn on the switch (S1). The first beep indicates that the IC (U6) has begun recording. When you hear two beeps, turn off the switch (S1), press the switch (S2), and the machine gun sound plays.
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The length of time the motor (M1) runs depends on the position of the adjustable resistor (RV). When the press switch (S2) is pressed, the 470μF capacitor (C5) charges. As the press switch is released, C5 discharges through the resistors R4 and RV, turning the transistor (Q2) on. Transistor Q2 connects the relay (S3) to the batteries, the contacts switch, and the motor (M1) spins. As the voltage decreases, Q2 will turn off and the motor will stop spinning.
Setting RV to the right (large resistance) sets a long discharge time. To the left, a short discharge time.
Turn on the switch (S1), the red LED (D1) lights. Now press and release the switch (S2), the bulb lights and the motor spins.
Project #431
Time Delay
1-7 Seconds
OBJECTIVE: To build a time delay circuit.
Project #432
Time Delay
OBJECTIVE: To see how the capacitor value affects the time.
Use the circuit in project #431. Replace the 470μF capacitor (C5) with the 100μF capacitor (C4). Set the adjustab le resistor (RV) to the far right, turn on the switch (S1), then press and release the switch (S2). The motor (M1) spins and bulb (L2) lights for about 3 seconds. Adjust the adjustable resistor to the left for a much shorter time.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
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Project #433
OBJECTIVE: To build a manual timer using a relay and whistle chip.
This circuit is similar to project #431 except now the whistle chip (WC) will also make sound.
Manual 7 Second
Timer (II)
Project #434
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit that sounds the speaker for 15 seconds.
As in project #431, the transistor (Q2) acts as a switch, connecting the relay (S3) and the alarm IC (U2) to the batteries. As long as there is a voltage on the transistor's base, the alarm IC sounds.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and then press the switch (S2). The transistor turns on, the capacitor (C5) charges up, and the alarm sounds. Release the press switch (S2). As the capacitor discharges, it keeps the transistor on. The transistor will turn off when the capacitor is almost discharged, about 15 seconds. The relay contacts will switch and the alarm will turn off.
15 Second Alarm
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Project #441 Project #442
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the numbers “1 & 2”.
Connect segments B & C to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the number “1” should be flashing. Now, connect A, B, G, E, & D to flash the number “2”.
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the letters “d & e”.
Flashing “d & e”
Use the circuit in project #435.
Connect B, C, D, E,
& G to the circuit.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the letter “d” should be flashing. Now, connect A, B, D, E, F & G to flash the letter “e”.
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the letters “h & o”.
Flashing “h & o”
Use the circuit in project #435.
Connect C, E, F, &
G to the circuit.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the letter “h” should be flashing. Now, connect C, D, E, & G to flash the letter “o”.
Project #436
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the numbers “3 & 4”.
Flashing “3 & 4”
Use the circuit in project #435. Connect A, B, G, C, & D to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the number “3” should be flashing. Now, connect C, B, G & F to flash the number “4”.
Project #437
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the numbers “5 & 6”.
Flashing “5 & 6”
Use the circuit in project #435. Connect A, F, G, C & D to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the number “5” should be flashing. Now, connect A, C, D , E, F & G to flash the number “6”.
Project #438 Project #439 Project #440
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the numbers “7 & 8”.
Flashing “7 & 8”
Use the circuit in project #435. Connect A, B, & C to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the number “7” should be flashing. Now, connect A, B, C, D, E, F & G to flash the number “8”.
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the numbers “9 & 0”.
Flashing “9 & 0”
Use the circuit in project #435. Connect A, B, C, D, F, & G to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1) and the number “9” should be flashing. Now, connect A, B, C, D, E, & F to flash the number “0”.
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the letters “b & c”.
Flashing “b & c”
Use the circuit in project #435.
Connect C, D, E, F
& G to the circuit.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the letter “b” should be flashing. Now, connect A, F & G to flash the letter “c”.
Project #443
OBJECTIVE: Use the Alarm IC as a switch to flash the letters “A & J”.
Flashing “A & J”
Use the circuit in project #435. Connect A, B, C, E, F, & G to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the capital letter “A” should be flashing. Now, connect B, C, & D to flash the capital letter “J”.
Flashing “1 & 2”
Project #435
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Project #445
Alarm Timer (II)
OBJECTIVE: To change the time by switching the resistor and capacitor.
Project #446
Alarm Timer (III)
Build this circuit using the following combinations for R5 and C5:
R5 & C3, R4 & C4, and R4 & C5.
OBJECTIVE: To modify project #285 for a different sound.
Project #444
OBJECTIVE: To connect the alarm IC to a timer circuit.
Alarm Timer
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the alarm may sound and slowly drift away as the lamp (L2) brightens. Press the press switch (S2) and the alarm sounds at full volume as the LED (D1) lights. Capacitor C5 is also charged. Release the press switch; the alarm IC (U2) still sounds because the voltage from the discharging C5 keeps Q1 and Q2 off . As the capacitor’s voltage drops, the LED will turn off and the sound will slowly stop.
Replace resistor R5 and capacitor C5 with different values and see how it affects the circuit.
Replace the 1-snap wire from the middle snap on U2 with a 2­snap and connect it to grid location D7 & E7. The circuit now produces a different sound. Change R5 and C5 with the following combin­ations for R5 and C5:
R5 & C3, R4 & C4, and R4 & C5.
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OBJECTIVE: To create bird sounds.
Turn on the switch (S1). The circuit makes a bird sound.
Bird Sounds
Project #447
OBJECTIVE: To create bird sounds.
Use the circuit in project #447. Replace the 100μF (C4) capacitor with the 10μF capacitor (C3), the tone should sound like a buzzer. Now use the 470μF capacitor (C5) and hear how the tone gets longer between chirps.
Bird Sounds (II)
Project #448
OBJECTIVE: To create bird sounds.
Use the circuit in project #447. Using the jumper wires, connect the whistle chip (WC) across points A & B and the sound changes.
Bird Sounds (III)
Project #449
OBJECTIVE: To create bird sounds.
Use the circuit in project #447. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points B & C.
Bird Sounds (IV)
Project #450
OBJECTIVE: To create bird sounds.
Use the circuit in project #447. Replace the 100kΩ resistor (R5) with the photoresistor (RP). Wave your hand over the resistor and the sound changes. With the photoresistor installed, redo projects #448 - 451.
Bird Sounds (V)
Project #451
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #447.
Using the jumper wires, connect the whistle chip (WC) across points C & D.
Touch-Control
Bird Sound
Project #452
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Project #453
OBJECTIVE: Build a circuit that records the sound of the motor spinning.
Placing the motor (M1) (with the fan attached) next to the microphone (X1) enables you to record the sound as it spins. Turn off and then turn on the switch (S1). After the two beeps, turn off the slide switch (S1) again. Remove the jumper wire connected across points A & B and press the press switch (S2) to hear the recording. The lamp (L2) is used to limit the current and will not light.
Motor Sound
Recording
Project #454
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit that generates sound as a motor is spinning.
Turn off the switch (S1). There is no power; the LED’s and motor are off. Now turn on the switch (S1). Only the green LED (D2) lights, indicating power to the circuit. Press the s witch (S2). The motor spins, the red LED (D1) lights, and you hear the motor sound from the speaker (SP).
Motor Sound Indicator
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 62 to find out about our Student Guides.
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Project #455
OBJECTIVE: Use the whistle chip and relay to make sound.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the relay (S3) opens and closes continuously. This creates an AC voltage across the whistle chip (WC), causing it to vibrate and sound.
Relay & Buzzer
Project #456
Project #457
OBJECTIVE: Use the speaker and relay to make sound.
Relay & Speaker
OBJECTIVE: To see how much fun electronics can be.
Electronic Playground
Use the circuit from project #455. Replace the whistle chip (WC) with the speaker (SP). Turn on the slide switch (S1) and now you generate a louder sound using the speaker.
Next, replace the whistle chip (WC) with the 6V lamp (L2). Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the lamp lights.
Uncover the photoresistor (RP) to play a recorded message followed by music, cover it to stop the music.
Turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a beep signaling that you may begin recording. Talk into the microphone (X1) up to 5 seconds, and then turn off the slide switch (it also beeps after the 5 seconds expires).
Set the lever on the adjustable resistor (RV) down (towards the microphone). Push and release the press switch (S2); the green LED (D2) flashes once while the red LED (D1) stays on longer. The LEDs will be brighter if your batteries are new.
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OBJECTIVE: To create the sound of a cat.
Set the adjustable resistor (R V) to the f ar left. Press and release the switch (S2). You should hear the sound of a cat from the speaker (SP). Now adjust the resistor and hear the different sounds.
Electronic Cat
Project #458
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #458.
Electronic Cat (II)
Project #459
Use the circuit in project #458. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points A & B. Press and release the the switch (S2). You hear sound from the whistle chip and speaker (SP). Adjust the resistor (RV) and hear the different sounds.
Project #460
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #458.
Electronic Cat (III)
Project #461 Project #462
Project #463 Project #464 Project #465
Use the circuit in project #458. Using the jumper wires, connect the whistle chip (WC) across points B & C. Press and release the switch (S2). Adjust the resistor (RV) and hear the different sounds.
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #458.
Electronic Cat (IV)
Use the circuit in project #458. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points C & D. Press and release the switch (S2). Adjust the resistor (RV) and hear the different sounds.
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #458.
Buzzer Cat
Use the circuit in project #458. Remove the speaker (SP) and connect the whistle chip (WC) across points A & B. Press and release the press switch (S2) to hear the sounds.
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #458.
Buzzer Cat (II)
Use the circuit in project
#458
. Remove the speaker (SP) and, using the jumper wires, connect the whistle chip (WC) across points B & C. Press and release the switch (S2). Adjust the resistor (RV) and hear the different sounds.
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #458.
Buzzer Cat (III)
Use the circuit in project #458. Remove the speaker (SP) and connect the whistle chip (WC) across points C & D. Press and release the switch (S2). Adjust the resistor (RV) and hear the different sounds.
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #458.
Lazy Cat
Use the circuit in project #458. Replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with 470μF (C5). Repeat projects #459-464 and hear 7 different sounds.
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OBJECTIVE: Construct a light-controlled display.
Connect segments B & C to the circuit. Tur n on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 1 lights.
Automatic Display #1
Project #467
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 2 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect A, B, G, E, & D to the circuit. Tur n on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 2 lights.
Automatic Display #2
Project #468
Project #466
OBJECTIVE: To build change the direction in which current flows.
Compare this circuit to project #358, which has the LED (D1 & D2) positions reversed. This changes the direction that current can flow. Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Press the press switch (S2) and now the meter deflects to the left.
Meter Deflection (II)
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Project #469
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 3 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect A, B , G, C, & D to the circuit. Tur n on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 3 lights.
Automatic Display #3
Project #475
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 9 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect A, B, D, F, G, & C to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 9 lights.
Automatic Display #9
Project #476
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 0 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect A, B, C, D, E & F to the circuit. Tur n on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 0 lights.
Automatic Display #0
Project #470
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 4 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect B , G, C, & F to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 4 lights.
Automatic Display #4
Project #471
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 5 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect A, C, F, G, & D to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 5 lights.
Automatic Display #5
Project #472
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 6 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect A, C, D, E, F, & G to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 6 lights.
Automatic Display #6
Project #473
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 7 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect A, B, & C to the circuit. Turn on the s witch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 7 lights.
Automatic Display #7
Project #474
OBJECTIVE: Light the number 8 using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #467. Connect A, B, C, D, E, F & G to the circuit. Turn on the switch (S1), the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the number 8 lights.
Automatic Display #8
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OBJECTIVE: To change the tone using the adjustable resistor.
Set the adjustable resistor (R V) to the bottom position. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and you should hear sound from the speaker (SP). Adjust the resistor to hear the different sounds.
Variable Oscillator
Project #477
OBJECTIVE: To change the tone using the adjustable resistor.
Variable Oscillator (II)
Project #478
Project #479
Use the circuit in project #477. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points B & C and adjust the resistor (RV).
Variable Oscillator (III)
Project #480
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #477.
Variable Oscillator (IV)
Project #481
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #477.
Photo Variable Resistor
Use the circuit in project #477. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points A & B and adjust the resistor (RV). You should hear a higher tone. This is generated by the whistle chip (WC).
Project #482
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #477.
Variable Whistle
Chip Oscillator
Project #483
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #477.
Slow Adjusting
Tone
Project #484
OBJECTIVE: Show a variation of project #483.
Slow Adjusting
Tone (II)
Use the circuit in project #477. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points D & E and adjust the resistor (RV).
Use the circuit in project #477.
Replace the 100kΩ resistor (R5) with the photoresistor (RP). Wave your hand over the resistor and the sound changes. Adjust the resistor (RV) to make more sounds.
Use the circuit in project #477, remove the speaker (SP). Make three more sounds by placing the whistle chip (WC) across points, A & B, B & C, and D & E.
Use the circuit in project #477. Place the 10μF capacitor (C3) (+ towards the top) directly over the .02μF capacitor (C1). A tone is generated once or twice per second, depending on the resistor setting.
Use the circuit in project #483. Replace the 10μF capacitor (C3) with the 100μF capacitor (C4) and the tone is much slower . To mak e it e ven slo wer, replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with the 470μF capacitor (C5).
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #477.
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Project #485
OBJECTIVE: To make a fixed-current path.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting.
The meter indicates the amount of current in the circuit. Tur n on the switch (S1), the needle deflects indicating the amount of current. The 10kΩ resistor limits the current, otherwise the meter could be damaged.
Fixed-Current Path
Project #486
OBJECTIVE: To make a simple light meter.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Using only a few parts, you can make a simple light meter. The amount of light changes the resistance of the photoresistor (RP), which affects the current though the meter. As light increases, the resistance drops and the meter deflects to the right. Decreasing the light, the meter deflects to the left, indicating less current.
Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to the far left and turn on the slide switch (S1). The circuit is now very sensitive to light. Wave your hand over the photoresistor (RP) and the meter deflects to the left, almost to zero. Move the adjustable resistor to the far right and see how less sensitive the circuit is to light now.
Simple Illumination
Meter
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-55-
Project #487
OBJECTIVE: To measure the voltage drop across diodes.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the LED (D1) lights as the meter deflects to the middle of the scale. The sum of the voltage drop across each components equals the battery voltage. Bypass the LED by pressing the switch (S2). The voltage across the 10kΩ resistor increases, as shown by the meter deflecting more to the right. Replace the red LED with the green LED (D2) and then the diode (D3), to see the different voltage drops.
LED Voltage Drop
Project #488
OBJECTIVE: To make a circuit that indicates whether a door is open or closed.
Using the photoresistor (RP) you can build a circuit that indicates if a door is open or closed. When the door is open and light is present, the letter “O” lights. When the door is closed and the room is dark, the letter C lights.
The photoresistor turns the transistor (Q2) on or off, depending on the amount of light in the room. When the transistor is on (light present), segments B & C connect to the (–) side of the batteries and letter “O” lights. When the room is dark, the transistor is off and the letter “C” lights . Segments B & C are connected to the transistor.
Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the letter “O” should light. Cover the photoresistor, simulating closing the door, and the letter “C” lights.
Open/Closed Door
Indicator
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Project #489
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Instead of driving a speaker (SP) with the music IC (U1), you can see it b y using the meter . Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the meter deflects according to the rhythm of music. After the music stops, hold down the press switch (S2) to make it continue.
Hand-control Meter
OBJECTIVE: To understand music deflection.
OBJECTIVE: To control the circuit using light.
Use the circuit in project #489. Replace the press switch (S2) with the photoresistor (RP). The music IC (U1) outputs a signal, as long as a light is present on the photoresistor. The photoresistor is like a short, connecting the pin to the battery. When the song repeats, cover the photoresistor with your hand, the resistance goes up, and the music stops.
Light-control
Meter
Project #490
OBJECTIVE: To start the circuit using an electric motor.
Electric-
control Meter
Project #491
OBJECTIVE: To start the circuit by using the whistle chip.
Sound-control
Meter
Project #492
Use the circuit in project #489. Place the motor (M1) across points A & B. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the meter (M2) deflects and swings according to the rhythm of music. When deflection stops, rotate motor to start the music again. The voltage generated by the motor triggers the IC again.
Use the circuit in project #489. Place the whistle chip (WC) across points A & B. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the meter (M2) deflects and swings according to the rhythm of music. When deflection stops, clap your hands next to the whistle chip, the m usic pla ys again. The clapping sound vibrates the plates in the whistle chip, creating the voltage needed to trigger the IC.
-57-
Project #493
OBJECTIVE: To make a simple voltage divider.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale.
This circuit is a simple voltage divider with parallel load resistors. The voltage across resistors R3 & R4 is the same. The current through both paths are different, due to the resistor values. Since resistor (R3) (5.1kΩ) is half the value of resistor (R4) (10kΩ), twice the current flows through R3.
The lights in a house are an example of this type of circuit. All are connected to the same voltage, but the current is dependent on the wattage of the bulb.
Fixed-Voltage Divider
Project #494
OBJECTIVE: To make a resistor checker.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting.
Connect the jumper wire to points A & B. Adjust the adjustable resistor (RV) so the meter deflects to 10. The resistance between points A & B is zero. Remove the jumper wire and put the 100Ω resistor (R1) across points A & B. The meter deflects to the 10, indicating a low resistance. Now replace resistor (R1) with the other resistors. The meter will display different readings for each resistor.
Resistor Measurement
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 62 to find out about our Student Guides.
-58-
OBJECTIVE: To construct a light-controlled display for lower case letters.
Connect C, D, E, F & G to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the letter “b” lights.
Automatic Display Letter “b”
Project #495
Project #497
OBJECTIVE: To light the letter “d” using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #495. Connect B, C, D, E, & G to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the letter “d” lights.
Automatic Display Letter “d”
OBJECTIVE: To light the letter “c” using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #495. Connect E, D, & G to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the letter “c” lights.
Automatic Display Letter “c”
Project #496
Project #498
OBJECTIVE: To light the letter “e” using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #495. Connect A, B, D, E, F, & G to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the letter “e” lights.
Automatic Display Letter “e”
Project #499
OBJECTIVE: To light the letter “h” using a light-controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #495. Connect F, E, C, & G to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the letter “h” lights.
Automatic Display Letter “h”
Project #500
OBJECTIVE: To light the letter “o” using a light controlled display.
Use the circuit from project #495. Connect C, D, E, and G to the circuit. Turn on the slide switch (S1) the display should be off. Place your hand over the photoresistor (RP), now the letter “o” lights.
Automatic Display Letter “o”
-59-
Project #501
OBJECTIVE: Display numbers 1 or 4 using the slide switch.
Connect segments B, C, F, & G as shown in the diagram. Turn the slide switch (S1) off and on, the display changes from numbers 1 to 4.
Hand-Control Display 1 & 4
Project #502
OBJECTIVE: Display numbers 1 or 0 using the slide switch.
Connect segments A, B, C, D, E, & F as shown in the diagram. Tur n the slide switch (S1) off and on, the display changes from numbers 1 to 0.
Hand-Control Display 1 & 0
Project #503
OBJECTIVE: Display numbers 1 or 7 using the slide switch.
Connect segments A, B, & C as shown in the diagram. T urn the slide s witch (S1) off and on, the display changes from numbers 1 to 7.
Hand-Control
Display 1 & 7
Project #504
OBJECTIVE: Display numbers 1 or 8 using the slide switch.
Connect segments A, B, C, D, E, F, & G as shown in the diagram. Turn the slide switch (S1) off and on, the display changes from numbers 1 to 8.
Hand-Control
Display 1 & 8
Project #505
OBJECTIVE: Display numbers 1 or 9 using the slide switch.
Connect segments A, B, C, D, F, & G as shown in the diagram. Turn the slide switch (S1) off and on, the display changes from numbers 1 to 9.
Hand-Control
Display 1 & 9
Project #506
OBJECTIVE: View charging and discharging a capacitor.
Using the meter (M2), we can monitor the charging and discharging of a capacitor. First turn off the switch (S1).
Charging: Connect the meter (M2) to points A & B (positive pole downward). Turn on the switch (S1). The 100μF capacitor (C4) charges and the meter deflects, slowly returning to zero.
Discharging: Connect the meter to points B & C (positive pole downward). Press the switch (S2). The capacitor discharges and the meter deflects, slowly returning to zero.
Monitor Capacitor
Charging &
Discharging
Project #507
OBJECTIVE: Using the meter with the space war IC.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting.
This is another circuit using the meter to monitor the output of an IC. Turn on the switch (S1). Press switch (S2) to start the circuit. As the space war IC (U3) outputs a signal, the meter will deflect. When the circuit stops, start it again by pressing switch (S2).
Hand-Control
Space Meter
-60-
Project #508
OBJECTIVE: Use the meter with the alarm IC.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Connect 3-snap wires to terminals E & F, and C & D. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the meter swings rhythmically.
Rhythm Swinging
Meter
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #508.
Fire Engine
Sound with
Whistle Chip
Project #510
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #508.
Ambulance Sound with
Whistle Chip
Project #511
Connect 3-wire snaps to terminals C & D and A & B. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points G & H. You should hear a fire engine sound generated by the alarm IC (U2).
-61-
Connect a 3-wire snap to terminals C & D. Connect the whistle chip (WC) across points G & H. Connect a jumper wire to terminals B & H. You should hear an ambulance sound generated by the alarm IC (U2).
OBJECTIVE: Show variations of project #508.
Police Car
Sound with
Whistle Chip
Project #509
Use the circuit in project #508. Connect the whistle chip (WC) to points G & H. Connect a 3-wire snap to the terminals C & D and turn on the switch (S1).
-62-
OTHER SNAP CIRCUITS®PRODUCTS!
For a listing of local toy retailers who carry Snap Circuits®, please visit www.elenco.com or call us toll-free at (800) 533-2441. For Snap Circuits®upgrade kits, accessories, additional parts, and more information about your parts, please visit www.snapcircuits.net.
OTHER FUN ELENCO®PRODUCTS
Motion Detector
Model SCP-03
Whenever somebody walks in front of the Motion Detector, the sound of a laser comes out of the speaker!
Snaptricity
Model SCBE-75
Build Over 75 Projects
Learn how electricity and magnetism can be used to make each other, learn about magnetic fields, how the electricity in your home works, how switches control the electricity to the lights in your home, and how series and parallel circuits affect electricity.
Over 40 parts including: Meter, electromagnet, motor, lamps, switches, fan, compass, and electrodes.
Educational Toy: Projects that relate to electricity in the home and magnetism and how it is used. Build over 75 projects.
RC Car Kit
Model FUN-875
Your Turbo King Car will be built from the ground up. You’ll learn all about gears, motors, printed circuit boards, and integrated circuits from our detailed assembly and training manual. You will construct each section, explore the circuitry and troubleshoot it.
300-in-1 Project Lab
Model MX-908
This lab has everything you need to build 300 exciting electronic projects. It uses spring and breadboard hook-up methods and includes an easy-to-read, illustrated, lab-style manual. Projects include: Transistor Radio, Burglar Alarm, Metal Detector, and much more!
Titan T ank Kit
Model 21-531N
The Titan Tank is an infrared remote control kit. Its microprocessor provides four different channels that allow up to four Titans to fight each other at the same time. Makes a sound when shooting and when it is hit. The Titan moves using six wheels that can move
forward, backward,
right and
left.
Upgrade Kit
Model UC-80
Deluxe Snap Rover
®
Model SCROV-50
Introducing the next generation of the RC Snap Rover®! This version includes a disc launcher , digital voice recorder, and music sounds. Over 50 parts allow you to complete over 40 additional projects.
If you want to enhance your Snap Circuits
®
experience and get even smarter, then try
For use with SC-500
Educational Series - teaches Basic Electricity and Electronics in the everyday world using our Learn By Doing®concept! 80 full-color pages, and written with the help of educators.
Put your circuits
in motion!
• Includes 30 parts
• Build over 20 projects
• Full-color assembly manual
• Sound effects
Build 250 Additional Projects
Including:
• Strobe light
• Electromagnetism
• Transistor AM radio
• Rechargeable battery
• Solar batteries
• Mega pulser and flasher
• Paperclip compass
Contains 10 New Parts
Including:
• Solar cell
• Electromagnet
• Vibration switch
• Two-spring socket
• Bag of paperclips
• Plus all experiments contained in the 500-in-1 (SC-500)!
• Includes CI-73 Computer Interface!
With this module you will also learn about and use an oscilloscope and spectrum analyzer, as you build over
73 BONUS EXPERIMENTS
using your Windows-based PC. Comes with all of the interface parts you need and the software. Great for introducing electronics through a computer. Works with all versions of our Snap Circuits
®
.
Sample Screen of
Computer Experiment
Expansion Parts
AC Power Supply
Part #
AC-SNAP
Replaces the batteries in Snap Circuits
®
.
Snap-to-Pin Set
Part # 9JWSC10
Lets you connect Snap Circuits®to a bread­board. 10 wires with reinforced pins, 5 colors, 10” length, and unlimited possibilies!
Computer Interface for
Snap Circuits
®
Model CI-73
Two-spring Socket
Part # ? 1
Three-spring Socket
Part # ? Q
Eight-Pin IC Socket
Part # ? U 8
Acts as a Scope and Allows You to See the Signals in the Circuit.
Snap Circuits®Green
Alternative Energy Kit
Model SCG-125
Learn about energy sources and how to “think green”. Build ov er 125 projects and ha ve loads of fun learning about environmentally-friendly energy and how the electricity in your home works. Includes full-color manual with over 100 pages and separate educational manual. This educational manual will explain all the forms of environmentally-friendly energy including: geothermal, hydrogen fuel cells, wind, solar, tidal, hydro, and others. Contains over 40 parts.
Snap Circuits®LIGHT
Model SCL-175
• Infrared detector
• Strobe light
• Color changing LED
• Glow-in-the-dark fan
• Strobe integrated circuit (IC)
• Fiber optic communication
• Color organ controlled by iPod
®
or other MP3 player, voice, and fingers.
Build over 175
projects!
Contains over
60 parts
Features:
Custom Storage Case
Model SNAPCASE7
Heavy duty plastic case with 2 custom foam inserts for housing your Snap Circuits®parts. Easy to identify missing components. Also includes a separate small case to hold the smaller loose parts.
(for use with SC-500)
Snap Circuits® Student Guide
Part # 753307
Detectolab
Model EDU-7080
Investigate, analyze, decipher and solve the crime! Over 65 activities with fingerprints, secret messages, chroma­tography, cipher codes, identity detection and more... Kit includes 30X microscope and necessary lab equipment.
ELENCO
®
150 Carpenter Avenue
Wheeling, IL 60090
(847) 541-3800
Website: www.elenco.com
e-mail: elenco@elenco.com
Copyright © 2012, 2010 by Elenco®Electronics, Inc., all rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced by 753292 any means; electronic, photocopying, or otherwise without written per mission from the publisher.
REV-E Revised 2012
Project 526
-1-
Basic T roubleshooting 1 Parts List 2 About the Two-Spring Socket (?1) 3
MORE
About Your Snap Circuits®Parts 4
MORE
Advanced T roub leshooting 4
MORE
DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits 5 Project Listings 6, 7 Projects 512-692 8 - 84 Other Fun Elenco®Products 85 - 86
1. Most circuit problems are due to incorrect assembly. Always double-check that your circuit exactly matches the drawing for it.
2. Be sure that parts with positive/negative markings are positioned as per the drawing.
3. Be sure that all connections are securely snapped.
4. Tr y replacing the batteries.
5. If the motor spins but does not balance the fan, check the black plastic piece with three prongs on the motor shaft. Be sure that it is at the top of the shaft.
Elenco
®
is not responsible for parts damaged due to
incorrect wiring.
Basic T roub leshooting
Note: If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can
follow the Advanced Troubleshooting procedure on page 4 to determine which ones need replacing.
Review of How To Use It (See page 3 of the Projects 1-101 manual for more details.)
The Snap Circuits®kit uses building blocks with snaps to build the different electrical and electronic circuits in the projects. These blocks are in different colors and have numbers on them so that you can easily identify them. The circuit you will build is shown in color and with numbers, identifying the blocks that you will use and snap together to form a circuit.
Next to each part in every circuit drawing is a small number in black. This tells you which level the component is placed at. Place all parts on level 1 first,
then all of the parts on level 2, then all of the parts on level 3, etc.
A large clear plastic base grid is included with this kit to help keep the circuit block together. The base has rows labeled A-G and columns labeled 1-10.
Install two (2) “AA” batteries (not included) in the battery holder (B1). The 2.5V and 6V bulbs come packaged separate from their sockets. Install the 2.5V bulb in the L1 lamp socket, and the 6V bulb in the L2 lamp socket.
Place the fan on the motor (M1) whenever that part is used, unless the project you are building says not to use it.
Some circuits use the red and black jumper wires to make unusual connections. Just clip them to the metal snaps or as indicated.
Note: While building the projects, be careful not to accidentally make a direct connection across the battery holder (a “short circuit”), as this may damage and/or quickly drain the batteries.
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD -
Never connect Snap Circuits®to the electrical outlets in your home in any way!
WARNING FOR ALL PROJECTS WITH A SYMBOL
Moving parts. Do not touch the motor or fan during operation. Do not lean over the motor. Do not launch the fan at people, animals, or objects. Eye protection is recommended.
!
!
WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD-
Small parts. Not for children under 3 years.
!
Batteries:
• Use only 1.5V AA type, alkaline batteries (not included).
• Insert batteries with correct polarity.
• Non-rechargeable batteries should not be recharged. Rechargeable batteries should only be charged under adult supervision, and should not be recharged while in the product.
• Do not mix alkaline, standard (carbon­zinc), or rechargeable (nickel-cadmium) batteries.
• Do not mix old and new batteries.
• Remove batteries when they are used up.
• Do not short circuit the battery terminals.
• Never throw batteries in a fire or attempt to open its outer casing.
• Batteries are harmful if swallowed, so keep away from small children.
• Do not connect batteries or battery holders in parallel.
!
WARNING: Always check your wiring before
turning on a circuit. Never leave a circuit unattended while the batteries are installed. Never connect additional batteries or any other power sources to your circuits. Discard any cracked or broken parts.
Adult Supervision: Because children’s abilities
var
y so much, even with age groups, adults should exercise discretion as to which experiments are suitable and safe (the instructions should enable supervising adults to establish the experiment’s suitability for the child). Make sure your child reads and follows all of the relevant instructions and safety procedures, and keeps them at hand for reference.
This product is intended for use by adults and children who have attained sufficient maturity to read and follow directions and warnings.
Never modify your parts, as doing so may disable important safety features in them, and could put your child at risk of injury.
!
-2-
Note: There are additional part lists in your other project manuals. Part designs are subject to change without notice.
Important: If any parts are missing or damaged, DO NOT RETURN TO RETAILER. Call toll-free (800) 533-2441 or e-mail us at:
help@elenco.com. Customer Ser vice • 150 Car penter Ave. • Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.
Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers
Qty. ID Name Symbol Par t #
r 1
Solar Cell 6SCB2
r 1 r 1
Electromagnet Iron Core Rod
6SCM3
6SCM3B
r 1
Vibration Switch 6SCS4
r 1
Bag of Paperclips 6SCM3P
r 1
Two-spring Socket
6SCPY1
You may order additional / replacement parts at our website: www.snapcircuits.net
?1
S4
M3
B2
-3-
The two-spring socket (?1) just has two springs, and won’t do anything by itself. It is not used in any of the experiments. It was included to make it easy to connect other electronic components to your Snap Circuits
®
. It should only be used b y adv anced users who
are creating their own circuits. There are many different types of electronic components and basic
parts like resistors and capacitors have a wide range of available values. For example, Snap Circuits
®
includes five fixed-value resistors (100Ω, 1KΩ, 5.1KΩ, 10KΩ, and 100KΩ). This is a very limited choice of values, and difficult to design circuits with. Snap Circuits
®
also includes a adjustable resistor (RV), but it is difficult to set this part to a par ticular value. You can place your resistors in series and parallel to make different values (as is done with the
5.1KΩ and 10KΩ in project #166), but this is also difficult with only five values to choose from.
Many customers like to create their own circuits and asked us to include more resistor values with Snap Circuits
®
. We could have done that, but you would never have enough. And resistors are not very exciting components by themselv es. You could try to use your own resistors, but they are difficult to connect since normal electronic parts come with wires on them instead of snaps.
The two-spring socket (?1) makes it easy to connect your own resistors (and other parts) to circuits by connecting them between the springs:
Any component with two wires coming from it (called leads) can be connected with the two-spring socket (?1), assuming the leads are long enough. Usually you will connect different values of resistors or capacitors, but other components like LED’s, diodes, or coils/inductors can also be used. You can usually find electronic components at any store specializing in electronics.
You can design your own circuits or substitute new parts into the projects in the manuals. For LED’s, diodes, or electrolytic capacitors, be sure to connect your parts using the correct polarity or you may damage them. Never e xceed the v oltage r atings of an y parts. Never connect to external voltage sources. ELENCO
®
IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PARTS DAMAGED BY IMPROPER CIRCUIT DESIGN OR WIRING. The two-spring
socket is only intended for advanced users.
About the TWO-SPRING SOCKET (?1)
Resistor Capacitor
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
Elenco®is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow this procedure to systematically determine which ones need replacing:
1 - 28. Refer to the other project manuals for testing steps 1-28, then continue below.
29. Solar Cell (B2): Build the mini-circuit shown here and set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) setting.
Hold the circuit near a lamp
and the meter pointer should move.
30. Electromagnet (M3): Build the mini-circuit shown here
. Lamp (L1) m ust be dim, and must get brighter when you press the press switch (S2).
31. Vibration Switch (S4): Build the mini-circuit shown here and shak
e the base grid. The LED
should go on and off as you shake.
-4-
The solar cell (B2) contains positively and negatively charged silicon crystals, arranged in layers that cancel each other out. When sunlight shines on it, charged particles in the light unbalance the silicon layers and produce an electrical voltage (about 3V). The maximum current depends on how the type of light and its brightness, but will be much less than a battery can supply. Bright sunlight works best, but incandescent light bulbs also work.
The electromagnet (M3) is a large coil of wire, which acts like a magnet when a current flo
ws through it. Placing an iron bar inside increases the magnetic effects. Note that magnets can erase magnetic media like floppy discs.
When shaken, the vibraton switch (S4) contains two separate contacts;
and a spring is connected to one of them. A vibration causes the spring to move, briefly connecting the two contacts.
The two-spring socket (?1) is described on page 3.
MORE
Advanced T roubleshooting (Adult supervision recommended)
MORE
About Y our
Snap Circuits®Parts
(Note: There is additional information in your other project manuals).
A Note on Sun Power
The sun produces heat and light on an immense scale, by transforming Hydrogen gas into Helium gas. This “transformation” is a thermonuclear reaction, similar to the explosion of a Hydrogen bomb. The earth is protected from most of this heat and radiation by being so far a w ay, and by its atmosphere. But e v en here the sun still has power, since it can spin the motor on your kit and give you sunburn on a hot day.
Nearly all of the energy in any form on the surface of the earth originally came from the sun. Plants get energy for growth from the sun using a process called photosynthesis. People and animals get energy for growth by eating plants (and other animals). Fossil fuels such as oil and coal that power most of our society are the decayed remains of plants from long ago. These fuels exist in large but limited quantity, and are rapidly being consumed. Solar cells will produce electricity as long as the sun is bright, and will have an ever-increasing effect on our lives.
Our Student Guides give much more information about your parts, along with a complete lesson in basic electronics. See www.snapcircuits.net/learn.htm for more information.
-5-
MORE
DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits
After building the circuits given in this booklet, you may wish to experiment on your own. Use the projects in this booklet as a guide, as many important design concepts are introduced throughout them. Every circuit will include a power source (the batteries), a resistance (which might be a resistor, lamp, motor, integrated circuit, etc.), and wiring paths between them and back. You must be careful not to create “short
circuits” (v
ery low-resistance paths across the batteries, see examples below) as this will damage components and/or quickly drain your batteries. Only connect the IC’s
using configurations given in the projects, incorrectly doing so may damage them.
Elenco
®
is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
Here are some important guidelines:
ALWAYS
USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN EXPERIMENTING ON YOUR OWN.
ALWAYS
include at least one component that will limit the current through a circuit, such as the speaker, lamp, whistle chip, capacitors, ICs (which must be connected properly), motor, microphone, photo resistor, or fixed resistors.
ALWAYS
use the 7-segment display, LED’s, transistors, the high frequency IC, the
SCR, the antenna, and switches in conjunction with other components
that will limit the current through them. Failure to do so will create a
short circuit and/or damage those par ts.
ALWAYS
connect the adjustable resistor so that if set to its 0 setting, the current will be limited by other components in the circuit.
ALWAYS
connect position capacitors so that the “+” side gets the higher voltage.
ALWAYS
disconnect your batteries immediately and check your wiring if something appears to be getting hot.
ALWAYS
check your wiring before turning on a circuit.
ALWAYS
connect ICs, the FM module, and the SCR using configurations given in the projects or as per the connection descriptions for the parts.
NEVER
try to use the high frequency IC as a transistor (the packages are similar, but the parts are different).
NEVER
use the 2.5V lamp in a circuit with both battery holders unless you are sure that the voltage across it will be limited.
NEVER
connect to an electrical outlet in your home in any way.
NEVER
leave a circuit unattended when it is turned on.
NEVER
touch the motor when it is spinning at high speed.
For all of the projects given in this book, the parts may be arranged in different ways without changing the circuit. For example, the order of parts connected in series or in parallel does not matter — what matters is how combinations of these sub-circuits are arranged together.
Examples of SHORT CIRCUITS - NEVER DO THESE!!!
You are encouraged to tell us about new circuits you create. If they are unique, we will post them with your name and state on our website at www.snapcircuits.net/kidkreations.htm. Send your suggestions to ELENCO
®
.
Elenco®provides a circuit designer so that you can make your own Snap Circuits®drawings. This Microsoft®Word document can be downloaded from www.snapcircuits.net/SnapDesigner.doc or through the
www.snapcircuits.net web site.
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Nev
er connect Snap Circuits®to
the electrical outlets in your home in any way!
Placing a 3-snap wire directly across the batteries is a SHORT CIRCUIT.
This is also a
SHORT CIRCUIT.
When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, this large circuit has a SHORT CIRCUIT path (as shown by the arrows). The short circuit prevents any other portions of the circuit from ever working.
NEVER
DO!
Warning to Snap Rover owners: Do not connect your parts to the
Rover body except when using our approved circuits, the Rover body has a higher voltage which could damage your parts.
!
!
NEVER
DO!
!
!
!
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
Project # Description Page #
512 Siren 8 513 Electronic Rain 8 514 Leaky Faucet 9 515 Lamp & Fan Independent 9 516 Drawing Resistors 10 517 Electronic Kazoo 11 518 Electronic Kazoo (II) 11 519 Water Resistor 12 520 Two-Transistor Oscillator 12 521 Diode 13 522 Rectifier 13 523 Motor Rectifier 14 524 SCR Shutdown 14 525 SCR Motor Control 15 526 Output Forms 15 527 Transistor AM Radio 16 528 Adjustable Solar Power Meter 16 529 Fan Blade Storing Energy 17 530 Antenna Storing Energy 17 531 Electromagnet Storing Energy 17 532 Transformer Storing Energy 18 533 Relay Storing Energy 18 534 Transformer Lights 18 535 Machine Siren 19 536 Hear the Motor 19 537 Back EMF 20 538 Back EMF (II) 20 539 Electronic Sound 21 540 Electronic Sound (II) 21 541 Lighthouse 21 542 Diode Wonderland 22 543 Meter Ranges 22 544 Motor Current 23 545 2.5V Lamp Current 23
Project # Description Page #
546 6V Lamp Current 23 547
Combined Lamp Circuits 23 548 Rechargeable Battery 24 549 Solar Batteries 24 550 Solar Control 25 551 Solar Resistance Meter 25 552 Solar Diode Tester 25 553 Solar NPN T ransistor Tester 26 554 Solar PNP T ransistor Tester 26 555 Solar Cell vs. Battery 27 556 Solar Cell vs. Battery (II) 27 557 Solar Music 28 558 Solar Sounds Combo 28 559 Solar Alarm 29 560 Better Solar Alarm 29 561 Photo Solar Alarm 30 562 Solar Space War 30 563 Solar Music Alarm Combo 31 564 Solar Music Space War Combo 31 565
Solar Music Space War Combo (II)
31 566 Solar Periodic Lights 32 567 Solar Periodic Lights (II) 32 568 Solar AM Radio Transmitter 32 569 Low Light Noisemaker 33 570 Low Light Noisemaker (II) 33 571 Low Light Noisemaker (III) 33 572 Solar Oscillator 34 573 Solar Oscillator (II) 34 574 Daylight SCR Lamp 34 575 Solar Bird Sounds 35 576 Solar Bird Sounds (II) 35 577 SCR Solar Bomb Sounds 36 578
Flashing Laser LED’s with Sound
36 579 U2 with Transistor Amplifier 37
Project # Description Page #
580 U2 with Transistor Amplifier (II) 37 581 U1 with
Transistor Amplifier 37 582 Loud Sounds 38 583 Swinging Meter with Sound 38 584 Motor Sound Using Transformer 39 585 Motor Sound with LED 39 586 Motor Sound with LED (II) 39 587 AC & DC Current 40 588 Noisemaker 40 589 AC Voltage 41 590 AC Voltage (II) 41 591 AC Voltage (III) 42 592 Noisemaker (II) 42 593 Noisemaker (III) 43 594 Pulsing Motor 43 595 Noisemaker (IV) 44 596 Noisemaker (V) 44 597 Noisemaker (VI) 44 598 Noisemaker (VII) 44 599 Noisemaker (VIII) 44 600 Noisemaker (IX) 44 601 Alarm Power 45 602 Alarm Power (II) 45 603 Night Sounds 45 604 Mega Pulser and Flasher 46 605 “E” & “S” Blinker 46 606 “2” & “3” Blinker 47 607 “9” & “0” Blinker 47 608 “3” & “6” Blinker 48 609 “c” & “C” Blinker 48 610 “O” & “o” Blinker 49 611 “b” & “d” Blinker 49 612 “H” & “L” Blinker 50 613 “A” & “o” Blinker 50
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Project Listings
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
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Project # Description Page #
614 Open & Closed Indicator 51 615 Open & Closed Indicator (II) 51 616 Vibration Indicator 51 617 Vibration Sounder 52 618 SCR Noise Circuit 52 619 SCR & Transistor Switch 53 620 Two-speed Motor 53 621 Two-speed Motor (II) 54 622 Current Flow 54 623 AM Radio with Power LED’s 55 624 Space War IC Recording 55 625 LED Flasher 56 626 LED Flasher with Sound 56 627 LED Flasher with Sound (II) 56 628 Stepper Motor 57 629 Crazy Music IC 57 630 Stepper Motor w/ Sound 58 631 Stepper Motor w/ Light 58 632 Police Siren with Display 58 633 Oscillator Alarm 59 634 Oscillator Alarm (II) 59 635 Tapping U3 59 636 Tapping U3 (II) 59 637 Adjustable Beeper 60 638 Electronic Meow 60 639 Electronic Meow (II) 60 640 Strobe Light 61 641 AND Gate 61 642 NAND Gate 62 643 OR Gate 62 644 NOR Gate 63 645 XOR Gate 63 646 High Pitch Oscillator 64 647 Low Pitch Oscillator 64
Project # Description Page #
648 Low Pitch Oscillator (II) 64 649
Low Pitch Oscillator (III) 64 650 Segment Jumper 65 651 DP & Zero Flasher 65 652
Stepper Motor with Lamp & LED’s
66 653 IC Start & Stop 66 654 IC Motor Speed 67 655 Sound & Light Flasher 67 656 Electromagnet Delayer 68 657 Electromagnet Delayer (II) 68 658 Two-Lamp Electromagnet
Delayer 69 659 Electromagnet Current 69 660 Electromagnetism 70 661 Electromagnetism & Compass 70 662 Electromagnetism & Paperclips 71 663 Electromagnet Suction 71 664 Electromagnet Tower 72 665 Paperclip Compass 72 666 Adjustable Paperclip
Suspension 73 667 Adjustable Paperclip w/ Delay 73 668 Photoresistor Paperclip
Suspension 74 669 Paperclip Oscillator 74 670 Paperclip Oscillator (II) 75 671 Paperclip Oscillator (III) 75 672 Paperclip Oscillator (IV) 76 673 Paperclip Oscillator (V) 76 674 Oscillating Compass 76 675 High Frequency Vibrator 77 676 High Frequency Vibrator (II) 77 677 Siren Paperclip Vibrator 78 678 Alarm Paperclip Vibrator 78
Project # Description Page #
679 Machine Gun Paperclip
Vibr
ator 78
680
Alarm Vibrator w/ LED 79 681 Alarm Vibrator w/ LED (II) 79 682 Relay-Whistle Vibrator 80 683 Relay-Whistle Photo Vibrator 80 684 Vibration LED 81 685 Vibration Speaker 81 686 Measure the Vibration as You
Tap the Switch 81 687 Shaky Birthday Song 82 688 Vibration Detector 82 689 Out of Balance 83 690 Vibration Alarm 83 691 Vibration Space War 84 692 Vibration Light 84
Project Listings
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Project #512
OBJECTIVE: To make a siren that slowly starts up and fades away.
Turn on the slide switch (S1), and then press the press switch (S2) for a few seconds and release. A siren starts up and then slowly fades away as the 10μF capacitor (C3) discharges.
Siren
Project #513
OBJECTIVE: To make a low-frequency oscillator.
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a sound like raindrops. The adjustable resistor (RV) controls the rain. Turn it to the left to make a drizzle and turn to the right to make the rain come pouring down.
You can replace the 10KΩ resistor (R4) with the 1KΩ (R2) or 5.1KΩ (R3) resistors to speed up the rain.
Electronic Rain
-9-
This circuit was suggested by
Luke S. of Westborough, MA.
Project #514
OBJECTIVE: To make a low-frequency oscillator.
Build the circuit and set the adjustable resistor (R V) control all the way to the right. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and you hear a sound like a faucet dripping. You can speed up the dripping by moving the adjustable resistor control around.
Leaky Faucet
Project #515
OBJECTIVE: To show how switches allow circuits to operate independently even though they have the same power source.
This circuit combines projects #1, #2, and #6 into one circuit. Build the circuit and place the fan on the motor (M1). Depending on
which of the switches (S1 & S2) are on, you can turn on either the lamp (project #1), the motor (project #2), or both together (project #6).
Lamp & Fan
Independent
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-10-
OBJECTIVE: To make your own resistors.
You need some more parts to do this experiment, so you’re going to draw them. Take a pencil (No. 2 lead is best but other types will also work), SHARPEN IT, and fill in the 4 rectangles you see below. You will get better results if you place a hard, flat surface between this page and the rest of this booklet while you are dra wing. Press hard (but don’t rip the paper) and fill in each several times to be sure you have a thick, even layer of pencil lead and try to avoid going out of the boundaries.
Actually, your pencils aren’t made out of lead anymore (although we still call them “lead pencils”). The “lead” in your pencils is really a form of carbon, the same material that resistors are made of. So the drawings you just made should act just like the resistors in Snap Circuits
®
.
Build the circuit shown, it is the same basic oscillator circuit you have been using. Touch the the loose ends of the jumper wires to opposite ends of the rectangles you drew, you should hear a sound like an alarm. Note: You may get better electrical contact between the wires and the drawings if you wet the metal with a few drops of water or saliva.
Making the drawn resistors longer should increase the resistance while making them wider should reduce the resistance. So all 4 rectangles should produce the same sound, though you will see variations due to how thick and evenly you filled in the rectangles, and exactly where you touch the wires. If your 4 shapes don’t sound similar then try improving your drawings.
Be sure to wash your hands after this project.
Shapes to be drawn.
Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on a hard surface, press hard and fill in
several times for best results.
Project #516 Drawing Resistors
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Shape to be drawn.
Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on a hard surface, press hard and fill in
several times for best results.
Use the same circuit as project #516, but draw a new shape. A Kazoo is a musical instrument that is like a one-note flute, and you change the pitch (frequency) of the sound by moving a plunger up and down inside a tube.
As before, take a pencil (No. 2 lead is best but other types will also work), SHARPEN IT again, and fill in the shape you see below. For best results, SHARPEN IT again, place a hard flat surface between this page and the rest of this booklet while you are drawing. Press hard (but don’t rip the paper). Fill in eac h se veral times to be sure you have a thick, even layer of pencil lead, and try to avoid going out of the boundaries. Where the shape is just a line, draw a thick line and go
over it several times. The black ink in this manual is an insulator just like paper, so you have to write over it with your pencil.
Take one loose wire and touch it to the widest part of this shape, at the upper left. Take the other loose wire and touch it just to the right of the first wire. You should hear a high-pitch sound. How do you think the sound will change as you slide the second wire to the right? Do it, slowly sliding all the way around to the end. The sound changes from high frequency to low frequency, just like a kazoo. Note: You may get better electrical contact between the wires and the drawings if you wet the wires with a few drops of water or saliva.
Shape to be drawn.
Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on a hard surface, press hard and fill in
several times for best results.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Project #517 Electronic Kazoo
Project #518
Electronic Kazoo (II)
Use the same circuit as project #516, but fill in the new shape shown here.
Take one loose jumper wire and touch it to the left circle. Take the other loose wire and touch it to each of the other circles. The various circles produce different pitches in the sound, like notes. Since the circles are like keys on a piano, you now have an electronic keyboard! See what kind of music you can play with it. Note: You may get better electrical contact between the wires and the drawings if you wet the wires with a few drops of water or saliva.
Now take one loose wire and touch it to the right circle (#11). Take the other wire and touch it to the circles next to the numbers shown below, in order:
7 - 5 - 1 - 5 - 7 - 7 - 7 5 - 5 - 5 7 - 7 - 7 7 - 5 - 1 - 5 - 7 - 7 - 7 - 7 - 5 - 5 - 7 - 5 - 1
Do you recognize this nursery rhyme? It is “Mary Had a Little Lamb”. By now you see that you can draw any shape you like and make electronic sounds with it. Experiment on your own as much as you like. Be sure to wash your hands after this test.
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Use the same circuit as project #516. Take the two loose jumper wires and touch them with your fingers. You should hear a low-frequency sound. Now place the loose jumpers in a cup of water without them touching each other. The sound will have a much higher frequency because drinking water has lower resistance than your body. You can change the sound by adding or removing water from the cup. If you add salt to the water then you will notice the frequency increase, because dissolving salt lowers the resistance of the water.
You can also make a water kazoo. Pour a small amount of water on a table or the floor and spread it with your finger into a long line. Place one of the jumper wires at one end and slide the other along the water. You should get an effect just like the kazoo you drew with the pencil, though the frequency will probably be different.
Project #519
OBJECTIVE: To use water as a resistor.
Water Resistor
Project #520
OBJECTIVE: To make an adjustable low-frequency oscillator.
Build the circuit, turn on the slide switch (S1), and then press the press switch (S2). Move the control lever of the adjustable resistor (RV) to change the frequency.
Two-Transistor
Oscillator
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-13-
Turn on the slide switch (S1), the lamp (L2) will be bright and the LED (D1) will be lit. The diode (D3) allows the batteries to charge up the 470μF capacitor (C5) and light the LED.
Turn off the slide switch, the lamp will go dark immediately but the LED will stay lit for a few seconds as capacitor C5 discharges through it. The diode isolates the capacitor from the lamp; if y ou replace the diode with a 3-snap wire then the lamp will drain the capacitor almost instantly.
Project #521
OBJECTIVE: To show how a diode works.
Diode
Project #522
OBJECTIVE: To build a rectifier.
Rectifier
This circuit is based on the Trombone project #238. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and set the adjustable resistor (RV) for mid-range for the best sound. The LED (D1) will also be lit.
The signal from the power amplifier (U4) to the speaker (SP) is a changing (AC) voltage, not the constant (DC) voltage needed to light the LED. The diode (D3) and capacitor (C5) are a rectifier, which converts the AC voltage into a DC voltage.
The diode allows the capacitor to charge up when the power amp voltage is high, but also prevents the capacitor from discharging when the power amp voltage is low. If you replace the diode with a 3-snap or remove the capacitor from the circuit, the LED will not light.
-14-
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1), the meter measures the current on the other side of the transformer (T1).
As the DC voltage from the battery (B1) spins the motor, the motor creates an AC ripple in the voltage. This r ipple passes through the transformer using magnetism. The diode and 0.1μF capacitor (C2) “rectify” the AC ripple into the DC current that the meter measures.
Holding down the press switch (S2) connects the 470μF capacitor (C5) across the motor. This filters out the AC ripple, so the current through the meter is greatly reduced but the motor speed is not affected.
Project #523
OBJECTIVE: To show how what a rectifier does.
Motor Rectifier
Project #524
OBJECTIVE: To show how an SCR works.
SCR Shutdown
In this circuit the press switch (S2) controls an SCR (Q3), which controls a transistor (Q2), which controls an LED (D1). Set the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever to the top (toward the press switch).
Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing happens. Press and release the press switch; the SCR, transistor, and LED turn on and stay on. Now move the adjustable resistor control down until the LED turns off. Press and release the press switch again; this time the LED comes on but goes off after you release the press switch.
If the current through an SCR (anode-to-cathode) is above a threshold level, then the SCR stays on. In this circuit you can set the adjustable resistor so that the SCR (and the LED it controls) just barely stays on or shuts off.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
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SCR’s are often used to control the speed of a motor. The voltage to the gate would be a stream of pulses, and the pulses are made wider to increase the motor speed.
Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1). The motor spins and the lamp (L2) lights. Wave your hand over the photoresistor (RP) to control how much light shines on it, this will adjust the speed of the motor. By moving your hand in a repetitive motion, you should be able spin the motor at a slow and steady speed.
Project #525
OBJECTIVE: To show how an SCR is used.
SCR Motor Control
Project #526
OBJECTIVE: To show the different types of output from Snap Circuits®.
Output Forms
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. This circuit uses all six forms of output available in Snap Circuits
®
- speaker (SP, sound), lamp (L1, light), LED (D1, light), motor (M1, motion), 7-segment display (D7, light), and meter (M2, motion of pointer).
Place the fan on the motor, tur n on the slide switch (S1), and shine light on the solar cell (B2). There will be activity from all six forms of output. If the motor does not spin, then give it a push with your finger to start it, or remove the fan.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-16-
This AM radio circuit uses a transistor (Q2) in the amplifier that drives the speaker (SP). Turn on the slide switch (S1) and adjust the variable capacitor (CV) for a radio station, then adjust the loudness using the adjustable resistor (RV).
Project #527
OBJECTIVE: To show the output of an AM radio.
Transistor AM Radio
Project #528
OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.
Adjustable Solar
Power Meter
Set the adjustable resistor (RV) for mid-range and the meter (M2) for the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and let light shine on the solar cell (B2). Move the solar cell around different light sources and adjust the adjustable resistor to change the reading on the meter.
Place your hand to cover half of the solar cell, the meter reading should drop by half. When you reduce the light to the solar cell, the current in the circuit is reduced.
Place a sheet of paper over the solar cell and see how much it changes the reading on the meter. Then add more sheets until the meter reads zero.
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Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing happens. Tur n the switch off; the LED (D1) flashes.
When you turn on the switch, the electromagnet (M3) stores energy from the batteries (B1) into a magnetic field. When you turn off the switch, the magnetic field collapses and the energy from it discharges through the LED.
Modify project #529 by replacing the motor (M1) with the antenna coil (A1). Hold down the press switch (S2) and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B2) are disconnected from the circuit.
This circuit is different from the Fan Blade Storing Energy project because energy in the antenna coil is stored in a magnetic field. When the press switch is released, this field creates a brief current through the LED.
Note that the energy stored in a magnetic field acts like mechanical momentum, unlike capacitors which store energy as an electrical charge across a material. You can replace the antenna with any of the capacitors but the LED will not light. Energy stored in the magnetic fields of coils was called electrical momentum in the early days of electronics.
Antenna Storing
Energy
Project #529
OBJECTIVE: To show that the fan blade stores energy.
Fan Blade Storing Energy
Project #531
OBJECTIVE: To show that the antenna stores energy.
Electromagnet
Storing Energy
Place the fan on the motor (M1). Hold down the press switch (S2) for a few seconds and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B1) are disconnected from the circuit.
Do you know why the LED lights? It lights because the mechanical energy stored in the fan blade makes the motor act like a generator. When the press switch is released, this energy creates a brief current through the LED. If you remove the fan blade from the circuit then the LED will never light, because the motor shaft alone does not store enough mechanical energy.
If you rev erse the motor direction, then the LED will light the same wa y, but the fan may fly off after the LED lights.
This circuit was suggested by
Mike D. of Woodhaven, NY.
Project #530
OBJECTIVE: To show that the electromagnet stores energy.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-18-
Watch the LED’s (D1 & D2) as you press or release the press switch (S2). The red LED (D1) lights briefly just as you press the press switch and the green LED (D2) lights briefly just after you release it, but neither lights while you hold the press switch down. Why?
When you press the press switch, a surge of current from the battery charges a magnetic field in the transformer (T1), which stays constant as the press switch is held down. Charging the magnetic field induces an opposing current on the other side of the transformer, which lights the red LED until the
magnetic fields stabilize. When you release the press switch (removing the
current from the battery), the magnetic field discharges. Initially the transformer tries to maintain the magnetic field by inducing a current on the other side, which lights the green LED until the resistor (R1) absorbs the remaining energy.
Note that this project is different from the Antenna Storing Energy project because there is a magnetic connection across the transformer, not an electrical connection.
Modify project #532 by replacing the transformer (T1) with the relay (S3), position it with the 3-snap sides to top and right (as in project #341).
Hold down the press switch (S2) and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B1) are disconnected from the circuit.
The relay has a coil similar to the one in the transformer, and stores energy in the same way.
Relay Storing
Energy
Project #532
OBJECTIVE: To show that the transformer stores electrical energy.
Transformer Storing Energy
Project #534
OBJECTIVE: To show how the transformer works.
Transformer Lights
Hold down the press switch (S2) and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B1) are disconnected from the circuit.
This circuit is similar to the Antenna Storing Energy project, and shows how the coils in the transformer (T1) also store energy in magnetic fields. When the press switch is released, this energy creates a brief current through the LED.
Project #533
This circuit is based
on one suggested by
Mike D. of
Woodhaven, NY.
OBJECTIVE: To show that the relay stores energy.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-19-
Project #535
Project #536
OBJECTIVE: To show how a motor works.
Hear the Motor
Place the fan on the motor (M1). Press the press switch (S2) and listen to the motor. Why does the motor make sound?
A motor uses magnetism to convert electrical energy into mechanical spinning motion. As the motor shaft spins around it connects/ disconnects several sets of electrical contacts to give the best magnetic properties. As these contacts are switched, an electrical disturbance is created, which the speaker converts into sound.
This circuit was suggested by Andrew M.
of Cochrane, Alberta, Canada
Turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a strange sound from the speaker (SP). Push the press switch (S2) and the sound changes to a high-pitch siren.
The alarm IC (U2) produces a smooth siren sound, but the electromagnet (M3) distorts the siren into the strange sound you hear. Adding the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) counters the electromagnet effects and restores the siren.
OBJECTIVE: To see how the electromagnet can change the sound from the alarm IC.
Machine Siren
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-20-
The voltage produced by a motor when it is spinning is called its
Back
Electro-Motive-Force
(Back EMF); this may be thought of as the
motor’s electrical resistance. The motor’s
Front Electro-Motive-Force
is the force it exerts in trying to spin the shaft. This circuit demonstrates how the Back EMF increases and the current decreases as the motor speeds up.
Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1). The 6V bulb (L2) will be bright, indicating that the Back EMF is low and the current is high.
Turn off the slide switch, remove the fan, and turn the slide switch bac k on. The lamp is bright when the motor starts and the lamp dims as the motor speeds up. Now the Back EMF is high and the current is low. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE MOTOR WHILE IT SPINS.
Project #537
OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate how the motor works.
Back EMF
Project #538
OBJECTIVE:
To demonstrate how the motor draws more current
to exert greater force when spinning slowly.
Back EMF (II)
Place the fan on the motor (M1). Connect the photoresistor (RP) with the jumper wires as shown, and hold it next to the 6V lamp (L2) so the light shines on it.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and watch how the 6V lamp is bright at first, but gets dim as the motor speeds up. By moving the photoresistor (RP) next to or away from the 6V lamp, you should be able to change the motor speed. To slow the motor down even more, cover the photoresistor.
When the photoresistor is held next to the 6V lamp, tr ansistor Q2 (with lamp L1) will try to keep the motor at a constant speed.
!
WARNING: Moving par ts.
Do not touch the fan or motor during operation. Do not lean over the motor.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-21-
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a high­frequency tone. Press the press switch (S2) to lower the frequency by increasing the capacitance in the oscillator. Replace the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) with the 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” on the right) to fur ther lower the frequency of the tone.
Project #539
OBJECTIVE: To make different tones with an oscillator.
Electronic Sound
Project #541
OBJECTIVE: To make a blinking light.
Lighthouse
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), the LED (D1) flashes about once a second.
You can also change the frequency by changing the resistance in the oscillator. Replace the 100KΩ resistor (R5) with the 10KΩ resistor (R4), place the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) back in the circuit as before.
OBJECTIVE: To make different tones with an oscillator.
Electronic Sound (II)
Project #540
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-22-
Cover the solar cell (B2) and turn on the slide switch (S1), there should be little or no light from the LED’s (results depend on your batteries). Shine a bright light on the solar cell and the red (D1) and green (D2) LED’s should be bright, along with one segment of the 7-segment display (D7).
This circuit shows how it takes a lot of voltage to turn on a bunch of diodes connected in a series. Since the transistors (Q1 & Q2) are used as diodes here, there are six diodes total (D1, D2, D3, D7, Q1, and Q2). The voltage from the batteries (B1) alone is not enough to turn them all on at the same time, but the extra voltage produced by the solar cell is enough to make them bright.
Now push the press switch (S2) and D7 will display “0.”, but it will be dim unless the light on the solar cell is very bright. With S2 off, all the current through D7 goes through segment B and makes it bright. With S2 on, the current through D7 divides evenly between several segments.
Project #542
OBJECTIVE: To learn more about diodes.
Diode Wonderland
Project #543
OBJECTIVE: To show the difference between the low and high current meter ranges.
Meter Ranges
Use the LOW (or 10mA) setting on the meter (M2), turn off the slide switch (S1), and unscrew the 2.5V bulb (L1). The meter should measure about 2, since the 100KΩ resistor (R5) keeps the current low. Results will vary depending on how good your batteries are.
Screw in the 2.5V bulb to add the 10KΩ resistor (R4) to the circuit, now the meter reading will be about 10.
Change the meter to the high-current HIGH (or 1A) setting. Now turn on the slide switch to add the 100Ω resistor to the circuit. The meter should read just above zero.
Now press the switch (S2) to add the speaker (SP) to the circuit. The meter reading will be about 5, since the speaker has only about 8Ω resistance.
-23-
Use the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2) and place the fan on the motor (M1). Press the press switch (S2), the meter will measure a very high current because it takes a lot of power to spin the fan.
Remove the fan and press the press switch again. The meter reading will be lower since spinning the motor without the fan takes less power.
Project #544
OBJECTIVE: To measure the motor current.
Motor Current
Project #545
OBJECTIVE: To measure the 2.5V lamp current.
2.5V Lamp Current
Use the circuit from project #544, but replace the motor with the 2.5V lamp (L1). Measure the current using the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter.
Project #546
OBJECTIVE: To measure the 6V lamp current.
6V Lamp Current
Use the circuit from project #544 but replace the motor with the 6V lamp (L2). Measure the current using the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2). Compare the lamp brightness and meter reading to that for the 2.5V lamp (L1).
Project #547
OBJECTIVE: To measure current through the lamps.
Combined Lamp Circuits
Use the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2) and turn on the slide switch (S1). Both lamps are on and the meter measures the current.
Now turn on the press switch (S2) to bypass the 2.5V lamp (L1). The 6V lamp (L2) is brighter now, and the meter measures a higher current.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-24-
Use the LOW (or 10mA) scale on the meter (M2) and turn the slide switch (S1) off. Var y the current measured on the meter by moving your hand over the solar cell (B2) to block some of the light to it. If you cover the solar cell, then the current immediately drops to zero.
Now turn the slide switch on and watch the meter again as you move your hand over the solar cell. Now the meter current drops slowly if you block the light to the solar cell. The 470μF capacitor (C5) is acting like a rechargeable battery. It keeps a current flowing to the meter when something (such as clouds) blocks light to the solar cell that is powering the circuit.
Project #548
OBJECTIVE: To show how a capacitor is like a rechargeable battery.
Rechargeable Battery
Project #549
OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.
Solar Batteries
Place this circuit near different types of lights and press the press switch (S2). If the light is br ight enough, then the LED (D1) will be lit. Find out what types of light sources make it the brightest.
Solar cells work best with bright sunlight, but incandescent light bulbs (used in house lamps) also work well. Fluorescent lights (the overhead lights in offices and schools) do not work as well with solar cells. Although the voltage produced by your solar cell is 3V just like the batteries, it cannot supply nearly as much current. If you replace the LED with the 2.5V lamp (L1) then it will not light, because the lamp needs a much higher current.
The solar cell (B2) is made from silicon crystals. It uses the energy in sunlight to make an electric current. Solar cells produce electricity that will last as long as the sun is bright. They are pollution-free and never wear out.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
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Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1). If there is sunlight on the solar cell (B2), then the LED (D1) and lamp (L1) will be on.
This circuit uses the solar cell to light the LED and to control the lamp. The solar cell does not produce enough power to run the lamp directly. You can replace the lamp with the motor (M1, “+” side on top) and fan; the motor will spin if there is sunlight on the solar cell.
Project #550
OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.
Solar Control
Place the circuit near a bright light and set the adjustable resistor (RV) so that the meter (M2) reads “10” on the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Now replace the 3­snap between points A & B with another component to test, such as a resistor, capacitor, motor, photoresistor, or lamp. The 100μF (C4) or 470μF (C5) capacitors will give a high reading that slowly drops to zero.
You can also use the two-spring socket (?1) and place your own components between its springs to test them.
Project #551
OBJECTIVE: To test the resistance of your components.
Solar Resistance Meter
OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.
Solar Diode Tester
Use the same circuit to test the red and green LED’s (D1 & D2), and the diode (D3). The diode will give a higher meter reading than the LED’s, and all three will block current in one direction.
Project #552
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
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Project #553
OBJECTIVE: To test your NPN transistor.
Solar NPN Transistor
Tester
This circuit is just like the one in project #551, but tests the NPN transistor (Q2). The meter will read zero unless both switches (S1 & S2) are on, then the adjustable resistor (RV) sets the current. If you have the same light and RV setting as project #552 with the diode (D3), then the meter (M2) reading will be higher with the transistor.
You can replace the NPN transistor with the SCR (Q3), it works the same way in this circuit.
Project #554
OBJECTIVE: To test your PNP transistor.
Solar PNP Transistor
Tester
This circuit is just like the one in project #551, but tests the PNP transistor (Q1). The meter (M2) will read zero unless both switches (S1 & S2) are on, then the adjustable resistor (RV) sets the current. If you have the same light and RV setting as project #552 with the diode (D3), then the meter reading will be higher with the transistor.
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Project #555
OBJECTIVE: To compare the voltage of the solar cell to the battery.
Solar Cell vs. Battery
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Press the press switch (S2) and set the adjustable resistor (RV) so that the meter reads “5”, then release it.
Now turn on the slide switch (S1) and vary the brightness of light to the solar cell (B2). Since the voltage from the batter ies (B1) is 3V, if the meter reads higher than “5”, then the solar cell voltage is greater than 3V. If the solar cell voltage is greater and you have rechargeable batteries (in B1), then turning on both switches at the same time will use the solar cell to recharge your batteries.
Project #556
OBJECTIVE: To compare the voltage of the solar cell to the battery.
Solar Cell vs. Battery (II)
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and vary the brightness of light to the solar cell (B2). If the meter reads zero, then the battery voltage is higher than the voltage produced by the solar cell.
If the meter reads greater than zero, then the solar cell voltage is higher. If the batteries are rechargeable then the solar cell will recharge them until the voltages are equal.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
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Project #557
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make music.
Solar Music
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 7 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the music. When it stops, clap your hands and it should resume.
The meter is used to measure if the solar cell can supply enough current to operate the music IC (U1).
Project #558
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make sounds.
Solar Sounds Combo
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 9 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to sounds from the alarm (U2) and space war (U3) IC’s. Wa ve your hand over the photoresistor (RP) to change the sounds.
The meter is used to measure if the solar cell can supply enough current to operate the alarm and space war IC’s. This project needs more light than project #557, since two IC’s are used here.
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Project #559
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make alarm sounds.
Solar Alarm
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure you have a bright light on the solar cell (B2) so the meter reads 10 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the sound.
The meter is used to measure if the solar cell can supply enough current to operate the alarm IC (U2). Some types of light are better than others, but bright sunlight is best.
Project #560
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make alarm sounds.
Better Solar Alarm
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 8 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the sound.
This circuit uses the transformer (T1) to boost the current to the speaker (SP), allowing it to operate with less pow er from the solar cell. Compare how much light it needs to project #559, which doesn’t have a transformer.
You can change the sound from the alarm IC (U2) using the same variations listed in projects #61-65.
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Project #561
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make alarm sounds.
Photo Solar Alarm
Project #562
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make space war sounds.
Solar Space War
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 8 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the space war sounds.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 6 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the alarm. Cover the photoresistor (RP) to stop the alarm.
The whistle chip (WC) needs less power to make noise than the speaker (SP), so this circuit can operate with less light on the solar cell than projects #559 and #560. But the sound from the circuits with the speaker is louder and clearer.
You can change the sound from the alarm IC (U2) using the same variations listed in projects #61-65.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
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Project #563
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make a combination of sounds.
Solar Music Alarm
Combo
Project #564
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make a combination of sounds.
Solar Music Space War Combo
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 8 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the music.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 8 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the music.
The meter is used to measure if the solar cell can supply enough current to operate the ICs (U1 & U2).
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make a combination of sounds.
Solar Music Space War Combo (II)
Use the circuit from project #564 but replace the speaker (SP) with the whistle chip (WC). No w the light on the solar cell (B2) doesn’t have to be as bright for this circuit to work. You can also modify this circuit by replacing the music IC (U1) with the alarm IC (U2).
Project #565
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Project #566
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to flash lights in a repeating pattern.
Solar Periodic Lights
Project #568
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to power an AM radio transmitter.
Solar AM Radio
Transmitter
You need an AM radio for this project. Place it next to your circuit and tune the frequency to where no other station is transmitting.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 9 or higher. Turn on the slide switch and adjust the variable capacitor (CV) for the best sound on the radio. Cover the photoresistor (RP) to change the sound pattern.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 9 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and the LED’s (D1 & D2) will alternate being on and off.
OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to flash lights in a repeating pattern.
Solar Periodic Lights (II)
Project #567
Use the circuit in project #566, except remov e the 3-snap betw een the music (U1) and alarm (U2) IC’s (base grid locations C2-C4) and add a 2-snap between the music IC and the 100Ω resistor (R1) (base grid B4-C4). The circuit works the same way but the LED flashing patterns are different.
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Project #569
OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.
Low Light Noisemaker
Project #570
Low Light Noisemaker (II)
OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.
Use the circuit from project #569 but replace the whistle chip (WC) with the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) to lower the frequency of the sound. The circuit works the same way.
OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.
Project #571
Low Light Noisemaker (III)
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure you have light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read at least 5 but less than 10.
Turn on the slide switch and it should make a whining sound, adjust the amount of light to the solar cell to change the frequency of the sound. Use a brighter light or partially cover the solar cell if there is no sound at all.
Use the circuit from project #569 but replace the whistle chip (WC) with the 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” on the right) to lower the frequency of the sound. The circuit works the same way but you hear a ticking sound instead of a whining sound.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
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Project #572
OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.
Solar Oscillator
Project #574
OBJECTIVE: To learn the principle of an SCR.
Daylight SCR Lamp
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Make sure you have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 3 or higher.
Turn on the slide switch (S1), the lamp (L1) stays off. Push the press switch (S2) and the SCR (Q3) turns on the lamp and keeps it on. You must turn off the slide switch to turn off the lamp.
The SCR is a controlled diode. It lets current flo w in one direction, and only after a voltage pulse is applied to its control pin. This circuit has the control pin connected to the press switch and solar cell, so you can’t turn it on if the room is dark.
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure you have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 8 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and adjust the adjustable resistor (RV).
You will hear a clicking sound like raindrops or a whine, depending upon how much light there is.
OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.
Solar Oscillator (II)
Project #573
Use the circuit from project #572 but replace the 10μF capacitor (C3) with the 0.02μF or 0.1μF capacitors (C1 & C2) to make the sound a high-pitch whine.
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Project #575
OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.
Solar Bird Sounds
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 9 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the sound.
For variations on this circuit, replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with the 10μF capacitor (C3) or replace the speaker (SP) with the whistle chip (WC).
Project #576
OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.
Solar Bird Sounds (II)
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 9 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the sound.
For variations on this circuit, install the whistle chip (WC) above the
0.02μF capacitor (C1), or install it across points A & B and remove the speaker (SP).
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