E-FLITE Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Specifications

Wingspan: 48 in (1200mm)
Length: 50 in (1250mm
Wing Area: 485 sq in (31.3 sq dm)
Weight w/o Battery: 3–3.3 lb (1.4–1.5 kg)
Weight w/ Battery: 3.6–4.2 lb (1.6–1.9 kg)

Diamante 25e ARF

Assembly Manual

2 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Introduction

Thank you for purchasing the E-flite® Diamante 25e ARF.
The Diamante 25e was designed by champion pilot Peter
Goldsmith to provide intermediate to experienced pilots a
precision aerobatics platform that is excellently balanced
stability and has benign stall characteristics. At the heart of this
design is the SD8020 airfoil that provides excellent tracking
and crisp response in any axis. It is also extremely resistant
to accelerated stalls so you’ll feel like you’re on rails in any
attitude. Construction is balsa and light ply with a custom Peter
Goldsmith UltraCote

®

trim scheme. The fiberglass cowl and
wheel pants come painted from the factory. You will find two
sets of mounting holes on the firewall to mount your choice of
either the Power 25 or 32 Outrunner motors. The Power 32 is
recommended if you wish to fly aggressive artistic aerobatics
along with sport and precision flying. The Power 25 is ideal for
sport aerobatics.

This model was purposely designed for electric power
application from the ground up. The flight characteristics of this
design are such that it will reach a large cross section of skills.
Whether you are just learning to explore the aerobatic realm,
or a more experienced pilot, the Diamante 25e will touch
your skills with a low level of intimidation. The Diamante 25e
was designed to be a straightforward, pure flying aerobatic
performer. Much attention was spent developing the flight forces
in all 3 axes ensuring minimum coupling, meaning a lower
workload for the pilot.

Using the Manual

This manual is divided into sections to help make assembly
easier to understand, and to provide breaks between each
major section. In addition, check boxes have been placed next
to each step to keep track of each step completed. Steps with
a single circle (

) are performed once, while steps with two

circles (

 ) indicate that the step will require repeating, such

as for a right or left wing panel, two servos, etc.
Remember to take your time and follow the directions.

Table of Contents

Specifications .........................................................................1

Introduction ............................................................................2

Using the Manual ...................................................................

2

Contents of Kit/Parts Layout ....................................................

3

Required Radio Equipment ......................................................

3

Important Information About Motor Selection ...........................

3

Lightweight Sport Setup ..........................................................

4

Recommended High Power Precision Aerobatic Setup ..............

4

Alternative Sport andPrecision Setup .......................................

4

Optional Accessories ..............................................................

4

Note on Lithium Polymer Batteries ...........................................

4

Required Tools and Adhesives .................................................

5

Warning ................................................................................5

Warranty Period ....................................................................

5

Limited Warranty ...................................................................

6

Damage Limits .......................................................................

6

Safety Precautions ..................................................................

6

Questions, Assistance, and Repairs .........................................

7

Inspection or Repairs ..............................................................

7

Warranty Inspection and Repairs ............................................

7

Non-Warranty Repairs ...........................................................

7

Safety, Precautions, and Warnings ..........................................

8

Aileron Installation .................................................................

8

Landing Gear Installation ......................................................

14

Horizontal and Vertical Tail Installation ..................................

17

Motor Installation .................................................................

24

Final Assembly .....................................................................

27

Control Throws .....................................................................

28

Center of Gravity .................................................................

29

Range Test Your Radio ..........................................................

29

Preflight ...............................................................................29

Flying the Diamante 25e .......................................................

30

Reduce Your Workload .........................................................

30

Servo and Control Setup .......................................................

31

Sequencing ..........................................................................32

Balance ...............................................................................32

Dynamic Balance .................................................................

33

Thrust Angles .......................................................................

33

Differential ...........................................................................34

Programmable Mixing ..........................................................

35

2007 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code ......

38

Building and Flying Notes .....................................................

39

3E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Contents of Kit/Parts Layout

Large Replacement Parts

EFL4051 Wing w/Ailerons:
EFL4052 Fuselage
EFL4053 Tail Set
EFL4055 Main Landing Gear
EFL4056 Cowling
EFL4057 Wheel Pants
EFL4058 Canopy
EFL4059 Spinner

Small Replacement Parts

EFL4054 Pushrod Set
EFLA213 E-flite/JR/Horizon Decals

Required Radio Equipment

You will need a minimum 6-channel transmitter, crystals, micro
receiver, and four mini servos. You can choose to purchase
a complete radio system that includes all of these items or, if
you are using an existing transmitter, just purchase the other
required equipment separately.

Note: We recommend the crystal-free, interference-free
Spektrum® DX7 2.4GHz DSM®2 7-channel radio. The
complete system includes standard servos, which are not
required for the Diamante.

Purchase Separately

SPM6070 DSM2 7-Channel Receiver

Or

JRPR720 7-Channel ScanSelect

™

FM Receiver

Or

JRPR790 7-Channel ScanSelect PCM Receiver
JSP98110 6" Servo Extension (2)
JSP20040 MN48 Mini Servo (4)
JSP98020 Y-harness, Standard 6"

Note: When using our recommended E-flite 60A Pro
Brushless ESC with switching BEC you do not need a
separate receiver pack as long as you are using our
recommended servos.

Note: Depending on what speed control you are using,
if it is not capable of supporting four mini-size servos
because of current draw, the speed control may shut
down due to high heat.

In order to provide the most reliable product, E-flite
recommends the use of a separate BEC (like the Ultimate
BEC), or receiver pack and switch using the following
items to ensure trouble-free operation:

EXRB100 Expert 720mAh Ni-MH 4.8V Rx Pack
EXRA050 Expert Standard Switch

4 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Important Information About Motor

Selection

The Diamante 25e does not include a propeller. We are
recommending the Power 25 or Power 32 outrunner motors.

The motor systems listed will provide you with excellent
aerobatic power for sport and/or artistic aerobatic pilots. All
power systems listed include worry-free outrunner motors.

Lightweight Sport Setup

EFLM4025A Power 25 BL Outrunner, 870Kv
EFLA1060 60A Pro Brushless ESC w/Switching BEC
THP42003S2PPL 4200mAh 3S2P 11.1V Li-Po, 13GA
APC12080E Electric Propeller, 12x8E
EFLC3005 Celectra 1- to 3-cell Li-Po Charger
EFLAEC303 EC3 Dev & Batt, Male/Female

This is a sport aerobatic setup with limited precision capabilities.

Recommended High Power

Precision Aerobatic Setup

EFLM4032A Power 32 BL Outrunner, 770Kv
EFLA1060 60A Pro Brushless ESC w/Switching BEC
THP42004S2PPL 4200mAh 4S2P 14.8V Li-Po, 13GA
APC13065E Electric Propeller, 13x6.5E
EFLAEC303 EC3 Dev & Batt, Male/Female

This is our recommended setup. Expect high power precision
aerobatics and very strong aggressive artistic aerobatics
performance.

Alternative Sport and

Precision Setup

EFLM4032A Power 32 BL Outrunner, 770Kv
THP42003S2PPL 4200mAh 3S2P 11.1V Li-Po, 13GA
APC14070E Electric Propeller, 14x7E

Or

EFLM4025A Power 25 BL Outrunner, 870Kv
THP42004S2PPL 4200mAh 4S2P 14.8V Li-Po, 13GA
APC12060E Electric Propeller, 12x6E

And

EFLA1060 60A Pro Brushless ESC w/Switching BEC
EFLAEC303 EC3 Dev & Batt, Male/Female

This is an alternative sport and precision aerobatic setup and
is a good option if you have some equipment and do not
want to purchase additional. Both options are very similar in
performance; you should expect better performance than our
lightweight sport setup and less performance than with our
recommended high power precision setup.

Optional Accessories

EFLA110 Power Meter
HAN172 Hangar 9 Digital Servo and

Rx Current Meter

Note on Lithium Polymer Batteries

Lithium Polymer batteries are significantly more
volatile than alkaline or Ni-Cd/Ni-MH batteries used
in RC applications. All manufacturer’s instructions
and warnings must be followed closely. Mishandling
of Li-Po batteries can result in fire. Always follow the
manufacturer’s instructions when disposing of Lithium
Polymer batteries.

5E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Required Tools and Adhesives

Tools & Equipment

EFLA250 Park Flyer Tool Assortment, 5-piece

Or Purchase Separately

EFLA257 Screwdriver, #0 Phillips (or included

with EFLA250)

EFLA251 Hex Wrench: 3/32", 7/64" (or

included with EFLA250)
Nut driver: 5/16"
Drill
Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm),

9/64" (3.5mm), 1/4" (6mm)
Hobby knife
Felt-tipped pen
Pliers
Rotary tool
T-pins
String
Thin CA
Weight
Pen Drill
Threadlock
#1 Phillips screwdriver
6-minute epoxy
Paper towel
Rubbing alcohol
Petroleum jelly
Canopy glue
Square
Sandpaper
Masking tape

Warning

An RC aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious
bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas,
preferably at AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved
flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio.

Keep loose items that can get entangled in the propeller away
from the prop, including loose clothing, or other objects such as
pencils and screwdrivers. Especially keep your hands away from
the propeller.

Warranty Period

Horizon Hobby, Inc., (Horizon) warranties that the Products
purchased (the “Product”) will be free from defects in materials
and workmanship at the date of purchase by the Purchaser.

6 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Limited Warranty

(a) This warranty is limited to the original Purchaser
("Purchaser") and is not transferable. REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT
AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE
REMEDY OF THE PURCHASER. This warranty covers only those
Products purchased from an authorized Horizon dealer. Third

party transactions are not covered by this warranty. Proof of
purchase is required for warranty claims. Further, Horizon
reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without
notice and disclaims all other warranties, express or implied.

(b) Limitations- HORIZON MAKES NO WARRANTY OR
REPRESENTATION, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ABOUT NON­INFRINGEMENT, MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A
PARTICULAR PURPOSE OF THE PRODUCT. THE PURCHASER
ACKNOWLEDGES THAT THEY ALONE HAVE DETERMINED
THAT THE PRODUCT WILL SUITABLY MEET THE REQUIREMENTS
OF THE PURCHASER’S INTENDED USE.

(c) Purchaser Remedy- Horizon's sole obligation hereunder
shall be that Horizon will, at its option, (i) repair or (ii)
replace, any Product determined by Horizon to be defective.

In the event of a defect, these are the Purchaser's exclusive

remedies. Horizon reserves the right to inspect any and all

equipment involved in a warranty claim. Repair or replacement

decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon. This warranty

does not cover cosmetic damage or damage due to acts of

God, accident, misuse, abuse, negligence, commercial use,

or modification of or to any part of the Product. This warranty

does not cover damage due to improper installation, operation,

maintenance, or attempted repair by anyone other than

Horizon. Return of any goods by Purchaser must be approved

in writing by Horizon before shipment.

Damage Limits

HORIZON SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR SPECIAL, INDIRECT
OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, LOSS OF PROFITS OR
PRODUCTION OR COMMERCIAL LOSS IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE PRODUCT, WHETHER SUCH CLAIM IS
BASED IN CONTRACT, WARRANTY, NEGLIGENCE, OR STRICT
LIABILITY. Further, in no event shall the liability of Horizon
exceed the individual price of the Product on which liability
is asserted. As Horizon has no control over use, setup, final
assembly, modification or misuse, no liability shall be assumed
nor accepted for any resulting damage or injury. By the act of
use, setup or assembly, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If you as the Purchaser or user are not prepared to accept the
liability associated with the use of this Product, you are advised
to return this Product immediately in new and unused condition
to the place of purchase.

Law: These Terms are governed by Illinois law (without regard to
conflict of law principals).

Safety Precautions

This is a sophisticated hobby Product and not a toy. It must be
operated with caution and common sense and requires some
basic mechanical ability. Failure to operate this Product in a safe
and responsible manner could result in injury or damage to the
Product or other property. This Product is not intended for use
by children without direct adult supervision. The Product manual
contains instructions for safety, operation and maintenance. It is
essential to read and follow all the instructions and warnings in
the manual, prior to assembly, setup or use, in order to operate
correctly and avoid damage or injury.

7E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Questions, Assistance, and Repairs

Your local hobby store and/or place of purchase cannot provide
warranty support or repair. Once assembly, setup or use of the

Product has been started, you must contact Horizon directly.

This will enable Horizon to better answer your questions and

service you in the event that you may need any assistance.

For questions or assistance, please direct your email to

[e-mail], or call 877.504.0233 toll

free to speak to a service technician.

Inspection or Repairs

If this Product needs to be inspected or repaired, please call for

a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA). Pack the Product

securely using a shipping carton. Please note that original boxes

may be included, but are not designed to withstand the rigors

of shipping without additional protection. Ship via a carrier that

provides tracking and insurance for lost or damaged parcels, as

Horizon is not responsible for merchandise until it arrives and
is accepted at our facility. A Service Repair Request is available

at www.horizonhobby.com on the “Support” tab. If you do not

have internet access, please include a letter with your complete

name, street address, email address and phone number where

you can be reached during business days, your RMA number,

a list of the included items, method of payment for any non-

warranty expenses and a brief summary of the problem.

Your original sales receipt must also be included for warranty

consideration. Be sure your name, address, and RMA number

are clearly written on the outside of the shipping carton.

Warranty Inspection and Repairs

To receive warranty service, you must include your original
sales receipt verifying the proof-of-purchase date. Provided

warranty conditions have been met, your Product will be

repaired or replaced free of charge. Repair or replacement

decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby.

Non-Warranty Repairs

Should your repair not be covered by warranty the repair
will be completed and payment will be required without
notification or estimate of the expense unless the expense
exceeds 50% of the retail purchase cost. By submitting the item

for repair you are agreeing to payment of the repair without
notification. Repair estimates are available upon request. You
must include this request with your repair. Non-warranty repair
estimates will be billed a minimum of ½ hour of labor. In
addition you will be billed for return freight. Please advise us
of your preferred method of payment. Horizon accepts money
orders and cashiers checks, as well as Visa, MasterCard,
American Express, and Discover cards. If you choose to pay
by credit card, please include your credit card number and
expiration date. Any repair left unpaid or unclaimed after 90
days will be considered abandoned and will be disposed of
accordingly.

Please note: non-warranty repair is only available

on electronics and model engines.

Electronics and engines requiring inspection or repair should be
shipped to the following address:

Horizon Service Center

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

All other Products requiring warranty inspection or repair should
be shipped to the following address:

Horizon Product Support

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

Please call 877-504-0233 with any questions or concerns
regarding this product or warranty.

8 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Safety, Precautions, and Warnings

As the user of this product, you are solely responsible for
operating it in a manner that does not endanger yourself
and others or result in damage to the product or the property
of others.

Carefully follow the directions and warnings for this and any
optional support equipment (chargers, rechargeable battery

packs, etc.) that you use.

This model is controlled by a radio signal that is subject to

interference from many sources outside your control. This

interference can cause momentary loss of control so it is

necessary to always keep a safe distance in all directions

around your model, as this margin will help to avoid collisions

or injury.

• Always operate your model in an open area away from cars,
traffic, or people.

• Avoid operating your model in the street where injury or
damage can occur.

• Never operate the model out into the street or populated
areas for any reason.

• Never operate your model with low transmitter batteries.

• Carefully follow the directions and warnings for this and any
optional support equipment (chargers, rechargeable battery
packs, etc.) that you use.

• Keep all chemicals, small parts and anything electrical out of
the reach of children.

• Moisture causes damage to electronics. Avoid water exposure
to all equipment not specifically designed and protected for
this purpose.

Aileron Installation

Required Parts

• Wing • Receiver

• Servo w/hardware (2) • Long servo arm (2)

• CA hinge (8) • 3

3

/8 in (86mm) pushrod wire (2)

• Clevis (2) • Clevis retainer (2)

• Nylon control horn (2) • 3mm x 30mm machine screw (2)

• Control horn standoff (2) • Control horn washer (2)

• Puhrod wire connector (2)

• Servo extension, 6 in (152mm) (2)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Rotary tool • Drill bit: 1/16 in (1.5mm)

• T-pins • Thin CA

• String • Weight

• Felt-tipped pen • Pen drill

• Threadlock • Tape

• #1 Phillips screwdriver

  1. Locate four CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center of

each hinge.

9E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 2. Use a rotary tool and a 1/16 in (1.5mm) drill bit to

drill a hole in the center of each hinge slot of both the
aileron and wing. This provides a tunnel for the CA to
wick into, penetrating the hinge.

Hint: You can prepare the rudder, fin, elevator and
stabilizer at this time as well.

  3. Slide the four hinges into the slots in the aileron.

  4. Slide the aileron into position on the wing. The

T-pins installed back in Step 1 will help in keeping
equal amounts in the wing and aileron.

10 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

  5. Apply a few drops onto each hinge. Make sure to

apply the CA on both the top and bottom of the hinge.

Important: Do not use accelerator on the hinges. The CA
must be allowed to soak in and penetrate the hinge.

  6. Gently pull the aileron from the wing once the CA has

fully cured. This is to verify the hinges are glued securely.

  7. Flex the aileron through its range of motion a few

times to break in the hinges.

 8. Repeat Steps 1 through 7 to complete the

aileron installation.

11E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

  9. Install the servo grommets and brass eyelets onto the

aileron servo following the instructions provided with
the servo. Attach a 6 in (152mm) servo extension to the
aileron servo. Use a commercially available clip to keep
the two from becoming disconnected inside the wing.

  10. Tie the string to the extension installed on the aileron

servo. Pull the extension through the wing and out the
hole in the center. Use tape to secure the extension to the
wing and prevent it from falling back into the wing.

12 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

  11. Place the servo into the opening in the wing. Use

a felt-tipped pen to mark the locations for the servo
mounting screws.

  12. Use a pen drill and 1/16 in (1.5mm) drill bit to drill

the four locations for the servo mounting screws.

  13. Apply a few drops of thin CA to each of the four

holes. This will harden the underlying wood and help
in preventing the screws from pulling out.

  14. Secure the servo in the wing using the screws

provided with the servo. Note the servo horn faces
towards the aileron.

13E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

  15. Use a hobby knife to pierce the covering for the

3mm x 30mm machine screw. Slide the screw into the
hole from the top of the wing. Slide a control horn
washer onto the screw, then thread the control horn
standoff onto the screw. Use a #1 Phillips screwdriver to
tighten the assembly.

Note: Use threadlock on the screw to prevent it from
vibrating loose.

  16. Thread the nylon control horn onto the control

horn screw until the top of the horn is flush with the
top of the screw.

  17. Slide a clevis retainer onto a nylon clevis. Thread the

clevis onto the

33/8 in (86mm) pushrod wire. Attach the
clevis to the control horn and slide the clevis retainer over
the forks of the clevis to secure it to the control horn.

14 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

  18. Plug the servo into the receiver and power up the

radio system. Center the aileron stick and trim. Install
a long servo arm onto the servo, parallel to the aileron
hinge line. Mark the pushrod wire where it crosses the
servo horn using a felt-tipped pen.

  19. Bend the wire 90 degrees at the mark made in the

last step. Use a pushrod wire connector to secure the wire
to the servo arm. Trim any excess wire using side cutters.

  20. Repeat Steps 9 through 19 to complete the

aileron servo installation.

Landing Gear Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage • Landing gear (left and right)

• 2

1

/4 in (57mm) wheel (2) • Wheel pant (left and right)

• 6-32 lock nuts (6) • 6-32 x 1

1

/8" machine screw (2)

• #6 washer (4) • 4-40 x 1/2" machine screw (2)

• 4-40 blind nut (2)

• 6-32 x 3/8" socket head screws (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Drill bit: 9/64 in (3.5mm)

• Adjustable wrench • Adjustable pliers

• #1 Phillips screwdriver • Hex wrench: 3/32", 7/64"

• Felt-tipped pen

  1. Attach the landing gear to the bottom of the fuselage

using four 6-32 x 3/8" socket head screws. The gear will
only go on in one direction.

15E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

  2. Slide the 6-32 x 11/8" machine screw through the

bottom hole of the landing gear. Secure the screw using a
6-32 lock nut. Thread a second lock nut onto the screw.

  3. Slide a #6 washer onto the screw, then slide the wheel

onto the screw. Slide a second #6 washer onto the screw
and secure the wheel using a 6-32 lock nut. Make sure
the wheel can turn freely after installing the final nut.

  4. Test fit the wheel pant onto the landing gear. Sand the

notch in the wheel pant if necesary so it fits over the lock
nut that is against the landing gear.

  5. Position the wheel pant so it is parallel to the top of the

fuselage as shown.

16 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

  6. Use a felt-tipped pen to transfer the location of the

upper hole onto the wheel pant.

  7. Use a drill and 9/64 in (3.5mm) drill bit to drill the

location made in the previous step.

  8. Press the 4-40 blind nut into the hole from the inside

of the wheel pant.

  9. Slide the wheel pant back onto the gear and secure

using a 4-40 x 1/2" machine screw.

 10. Repeat Steps 2 through 9 to install the remaining

wheel and wheel pant.

17E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Horizontal and Vertical Tail Installation

Required Parts

• Wing assembly • 10-32 nylon wing bolt

• Elevator • Pushrod wire connector (2)

• Stabilizer • Fin

• Rudder • CA hinges (9)

• 7 in (178mm) pushrod wire • 6

1

/4 in (159mm) pushrod wire

• Clevis (2) • Clevis retainer (2)

• Nylon control horn (2) • 3mm x 30mm machine screw (2)

• Control horn standoff (2) • Control horn washer (2)

• Long servo horn (2) • Tail gear assembly

• 1 in (25mm) tail wheel • 3/32" wheel collar (2)

• Servo extension, 12" (305mm) (2)

• 1

1

/4 in x 1/4 in (32mm x 6mm) wing dowel (2)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Drill bit: 1/4 in (6mm)

• 6-minute epoxy

• Ruler • String

• Thin CA • T-pins

• Paper towel • Rubbing alcohol

• Hobby knife • Felt-tipped pen

• Petroleum jelly

 1. Enlarge the holes in the leading edge of the wing

using a drill and 1/4 in (6mm) drill bit.

 2. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the 11/4 in x 1/4 in

(32mm x 6mm) wing dowels into the leading edge of
the wing. Clean up any excess epoxy using a paper
towel and rubbing alcohol. The dowels will protrude
3/8 in (10mm) forward of the wing.

18 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 3. Attach the wing to the fuselage using the 10-32 nylon

wing bolt.

 4. Use six CA hinges to attach the elevator and

stabilizer. Use the same technique as the aileron
hinges when installing the elevator hinges.

 5. Install the elevator control horn as shown following

the same technique as the aileron control horn. Note the
position of the control horn.

 6. Slide the stabilizer into the fuselage. Make sure the

control horn faces toward the bottom of the fuselage.
Measure the distance from the center of the fuselage to
each stabilizer tip to center the stabilizer in the fuselage.

19E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 7. Measure from the wing tip to the stabilizer to make

sure both measurements are equal. This will square the
stabilizer to the wing and fuselage. Use a piece of string
to check the distance between the wing and stabilizer.

 8. Check to make sure the stabilizer is parallel to the

wing. Lightly sand the fuselage where the stabilizer rests
to correct any alignment problems.

 9. Use a felt-tipped pen to trace the outline of the

fuselage on the top and bottom of the stabilizer once
the stabilizer has been aligned.

20 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 10. Use a hobby knife with a new blade to remove

the covering slightly inside the lines drawn in the
previous step.

Note: Remove the covering from the top and bottom of
the stabilizer.

Important: Use light pressure to remove the covering, as
you can use too much pressure and score the stabilizer
which could cause it to fail in flight.

Hint: You can use a soldering iron or hot knife as an
option to a hobby knife. This will greatly lower the
chances of cutting into the stabilizer.

 11. Slide the stabilizer back into the fuselage and

double-check the alignment. Wick thin CA into the joint
between the fuselage and stabilizer. Avoid using CA
accelerator on the CA to give it time to wick into the joint.
Allow the CA to cure before handling the fuselage.

 12. Locate the tail gear assemble and apply a thin

coat of petroleum jelly to the wire. Work the bushing to
distribute the jelly.

21E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 13. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the tail wheel assembly

into the pre-cut slot in the aft end of the fuselage.

 14. Slide the fin into the slot in the aft end of the

fuselage. Press the fin tight against the end of the
fuselage, as it can rock forward in the slot.

Note: The aft edge of the fin will be parallel to the aft
end of the fuselage when positioned correctly.

 15. Use a square to make sure the vertical fin is square

to the stabilizer.

 16. Use a felt-tipped pen to trace the outline of the

fuselage onto the fin with the fin in correct alignment.
Use a square to make sure the vertical fin is square
to the stabilizer.

22 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 17. Remove the covering below the line drawn on the

fin using the same technique as the stabilizer. Use thin
CA to secure the fin to the fuselage.

 18. Use three hinges to install the rudder onto the fin. The

tail gear wire will be glued into the rudder using
6-minute epoxy.

 19. Secure the tail wheel onto the tail gear assembly

using two 3/32" wheel collars.

 20. Install the rudder control horn using the same

technique as the elevator and aileron control horns.

23E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 21. Attach a 12 in (305mm) servo extension to the

rudder servo lead. Install the servo using the same
technique as the aileron servo. Use the 7 in (178mm)
pushrod wire to connect the servo to the rudder
control horn.

 22. Attach a 12 in (305mm) servo extension to the

elevator servo lead. Install the servo using the same
technique as the aileron servo. Use the 61/4 in (159mm)
pushrod wire to connect the servo to the elevator
control horn.

24 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Motor Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage assembly • 4-40 blind nut (4)

• Hook and loop strap (2) • 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screws

• Cowling • 2

1

/2" (64mm) spinner

• Propeller • Brushless ESC

• Hook and loop tape, 3" (76mm) (2)

• 2mm x 10mm sheet metal screw (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Hex wrench: 3/32"

• Masking tape • Drill

• Card stock

• Drill bit: 1/16 in (1.5mm), 9/64 in (3.5mm)

Note: There are two sets of holes in the firewall. The
outer set of holes is used to mount the Power 32 motor,
while the inner holes are used for mounting the Power 25
motor. Use the appropriate holes for your motor.

 1. Use a drill and 9/64 in (3.5mm) drill bit to drill the

holes in the motor mount for the mounting screws.

 2. Attach the mount to the motor using the hardware

provided with the motor.

 3. Install the four 4-40 blind nuts inside the fuselage.

Use the appropriate holes for your particular motor.
Use four 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screws to secure the
motor to the firewall.

25E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 3. Plug the motor into the speed control. Use hook and

loop tape to secure the speed control inside the fuselage
out of the way of the battery.

Note: When using our recommended E-flite™ 60A Pro
Brushless ESC with switching BEC you do not need a
separate receiver pack as long as you are using our
recommended servos.

If your ESC is not capable of supporting the current draw
of four mini-size servos the speed control may shut down
due to high heat.

In order to provide the most reliable product, E-flite
recommends the use of a separate BEC (like the Ultimate
BEC), or receiver pack and switch to ensure trouble-free
operation as follows:

Expert 720mAh Ni-MH 4.8V receiver battery (EXRB100)
Expert Standard Switch (EXRA050)

Use the battery and switch harness to power the receiver
and servos after disabling the BEC on the ESC (by
following the instructions included with the ESC).

 4. Use the two hook and loop straps included with your

plane to secure the battery inside the fuselage.

Note: If the battery slides forward or backward, use hook
and loop tape on the battery and inside the fuselage to
prevent the battery from moving.

 5. Now is a good time to test the operation of the

motor. Use your radio system and plug the speed
control into the receiver. With the battery plugged
in, use the throttle stick to operate the motor. Check
that the motor operates properly, and that it rotates
counterclockwise when viewed from the front of the
plane. Follow the instructions provided with the speed
control to correct for operational problems.

26 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 6. Use tape and cardstock to make tabs to indicate

the location of the tabs at the front of the fuselage for
mounting the cowling.

 7. Slide the cowling onto the fuselage. Use the propeller

adapter to attach the propeller and spinner backplate
temporarily onto the motor. Position the cowling so it
lines up with the spinner backplate, and has a small gap
between the spinner backplate and cowling.

 8. With the cowl aligned with the spinner, use a drill and

1/16 in (1.5mm) drill bit to drill through the cowl and
into the fuselage using the cardstock as guides.

 9. Secure the cowling using the four 2mm x 10mm sheet

metal screws. There are two screws on each side of the
cowl as shown. Complete the cowling installation by
attaching the spinner cone using the two screws provided
with the spinner.

27E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Final Assembly

Required Parts

• Fuselage assembly • Canopy

• Receiver

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Hook and loop tape • Masking tape

• Canopy Glue (PAAPT56) • Felt-tipped pen

• Sandpaper

 1. Secure the receiver inside the fuselage using hook

and loop tape. Follow the instructions provided with the
receiver when installing the antenna.

 2. Place the canopy onto the hatch. Use a felt-tipped pen

to trace the outline of the canopy onto the hatch.

Note: Use care not to change the position of the back of
the canopy hatch.

 2. Lightly sand the hatch inside the line drawn in the last

step. Also sand the inside of the canopy where it contacts
the hatch. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to
wipe down the two contacting surfaces.

28 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

 3. Use canopy glue to attach the canopy to the

canopy hatch. Tape the canopy into position until
the glue fully cures.

 4. Attach the canopy hatch to the fuselage.

Control Throws

 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver of your aircraft.

Check the movement of the rudder using the transmitter.
When the stick is moved right, the rudder should also
move right. Reverse the direction of the servo at the
transmitter if necessary.

 2. Check the movement of the elevator with the radio

system. Moving the elevator stick down will make the
airplane elevator move up.

 3. Use a throw gauge to adjust the throw of the elevator,

ailerons and rudder. Adjust the position of the pushrod at
the control horn to achieve the following measurements
when moving the sticks to their endpoints.

Ailerons

High Rate: 2 in (51mm) (25º) up
13/4 in (44mm) (22º) down
Low Rate: 1 in (25mm) (15º) up
7/8 in (22mm) (14º) down

Elevator

High Rate: 2

3

/8 in (60mm) (30º) up
23/8 in (60mm) (30º) down
Low Rate: 1

1

/16 in (27mm) (12º) up
11/16 in (27mm) (12º) down

Rudder

High Rate: 2

1

/4 in (57mm) (32º) left
21/4 in (57mm) (32º) right
Low Rate: Same as High Rate

29E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Center of Gravity

An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model.

Caution: Do not inadvertently skip this step!

The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location is 5–5

1

/2 in
(127–140mm) behind the leading edge of the wing against the
fuselage.

Range Test Your Radio

 1. Before each flying session, be sure to range check

your radio. This is accomplished by turning on your
transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the
receiver in your airplane. With your airplane on the
ground and the engine running, you should be able to
walk 30 paces (approximately 100 feet) away from your
airplane and still have complete control of all functions.

If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment

checked out by the manufacturer.

 2. Double-check that all controls (aileron, elevator, rudder

and throttle) move in the correct direction.

 3. Be sure that your transmitter batteries are fully

charged, per the instructions included with your radio.

Preflight

Check Your Radio

Before going to the field, be sure that your batteries are fully
charged per the instructions included with your radio. Charge
both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane. Use
the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio
system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In
most cases, the radio should be charged the night before going
out flying.

Before each flying session, be sure to range check your radio.
See your radio manual for the recommended range and
instructions for your radio system. Each radio manufacturer
specifies different procedures for their radio systems. Next, start
the motor. With the model securely anchored, check the range
again. The range test should not be significantly affected. If it is,
don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked out by
the manufacturer.

Note: Keep loose items that can get entangled in
the propeller away from the prop. These include
loose clothing, or other objects such as pencils and
screwdrivers. Especially keep your hands away from the
propeller.

Double-check that all controls (aileron, elevator, rudder and
throttle) move in the correct direction.

Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with
the recommended throws). Test run the motor and make sure
it transitions smoothly from off to full throttle and back. Also
ensure the engine is installed according to the manufacturer’s
instructions, and it will operate consistently.

Check all the control horns, servo horns, and clevises to make
sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items
that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these
components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.

30 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Flying the Diamante 25e

You will find the Diamante 25e to be a solid, honest-flying
model. It is capable of handling all kinds of weather.

Ensure your CG is set according to the manual and power up
the aircraft. Move your throttle trim up slowly until the motor
just begins to spin. This will be your flight idle that will help to
establish a longer glide path and tends to make landings easier.
Before taxiing out to the runway, double-check all controls are
working in the correct direction and functioning properly. Taxi
out to the runway and line up into the wind. You will find the
rudder very effective; on the ground tracking is very predictable.
Apply power smoothly and begin the takeoff roll. Correct with
rudder as necessary and apply up elevator slowly until the
model lifts off. Once in the air, trim the model for level flight.
For optimum aerobatic performance, trim for a slight dive, both
upright and inverted. Center of Gravity will affect the feel of
the natural feel of this model and is why a large battery tray
was designed into the aircraft to allow variations of the Center
of Gravity simply by relocating the battery. Each pilot will have
a personal preference of their optimum Center of Gravity,
but for first flights we would recommend using the forward
recommendation. Included in this kit was an aerobatic trimming
article written by 7-time TOC competitor Peter Goldsmith. By
following his detailed trimming information you can have the
Diamante performing perfect aerobatic maneuvers.

Landing the Diamante 25e is as easy as setting up on final
approach, lowering the throttle to idle and gliding in to a
soft three-point touch-down. One thing to be aware of is the
Diamante has a very efficient airfoil, so set up for the final
glide path farther out than expected to ensure you are not over­shooting the touch-down point.

We hope you enjoy the experience of flying a pure aerobatic
performer like the Diamante 25e.

Happy landings.

Reduce Your Workload

One of my passions in life is to teach. After a long discussion
with Mike Hurley and after sharing with him how passionate
I was to share my life’s aerobatic knowledge, we decided that
a trimming article would be a great start. A properly trimmed
model can reduce your workload in an aerobatic sequence by
an enormous amount. I judged at the nationals this year and
thoroughly enjoyed the experience. I was also impressed with
the skills, especially in the lower classes, when displayed by
pilots trying to fly with a poor trim setup. I was truly amazed
how tolerant people were; in fact, it drove me crazy to watch.
I remember bouncing out of my judging chair and saying to
Mike, "Boy, I need to help these people." Hence, here I am
typing away at my exciting pace of about 80 minutes per word
<grin> in an attempt to help educate the great skill base that
exists in the US scale aerobatic scene. Like all good input, it
doesn’t come from me, but is more a summary of 25 years of
meeting people who shared their thoughts on trimming with me,
then melting them down into some kind of legible format that
most can understand.

31E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Servo and Control Setup

3D and precision model trim typically go against each other.
What I mean by this is that when pilots set up their new 40%

something, they go straight for the big rates—35, 40, and
sometimes up to 50 degrees of throw. Any thoughts about how
this can affect the servo resolution, and more importantly the
servo power? 99% of scale aerobatic events allow a separate
aircraft for freestyle. Between 80–100% of the results at a scale
aerobatic event comes from the precision elements, known and
unknown sequences, of the event. Please don’t misunderstand
me, I love to watch freestyle flying, and admire the talent of the
pilots that do it well; it’s innovative and has been one of the
main contributors to the growth of giant-scale aerobatic aircraft.
My point is: why not have your free setup, specifically for the
free event, then have a precision setup for known and unknown
sequences. I know for me personally, having a model just for
freestyle will be something I aim to do in the future. Having
said that, a good alternative is to have a more biased precision
control setup, which will no doubt improve your precision flying,
especially if you’re a regular attendee to the scale aerobatic
event. With my Cap, I use 1" horns on all surfaces with the
exception of Rudder which uses 1 ¼". I have 28 degrees on
aileron, 32 degrees on elevator and 35 degrees on rudder. For
me, this is a good compromise for precision and free flying,
“with the bias towards Free”. With 1" horns, and 1 ½" distance
from control hook up, I am getting slightly better that 1-to-1
ratio. More importantly I am getting closer to the maximum
servo power and control geometry available. With 1" horns,
my resolution is better, control slop is reduced, and servo wear
is greatly improved. Another novel bonus is that I don’t need
as many servos per surface. Give it a try next time you set up
your aircraft, you may be surprised, in fact in some cases you
may see no difference in control responsiveness by going to 1”
horns, as with the better geometry you may be reducing your
control blow back. One of the biggest challenges I see pilots
dealing with is surface blow back. With blow back, your snap
exits will be all over the place, both entry and exits. Getting
consistent flying is almost impossible.

Every time your speed changes, you control response will
change. Hmmn, I suspect a few lights just went on. Yep, could it
be the fact that you consistently miss your snap exits is not due
to your skills, but control blow back.

When setting up your servos, make sure you run the numbers,
do the math and figure out just how much power you are
delivering to the surface. All servos are rated at inch ounces,
that is at one inch from the center of the servo. An 8611 is 266
oz/in at 6V. With a 2” horn they are only 133, and around
200 with a 1 ½" horn. Years ago I was able to measure the
forces on my Cap, believe it or not the ailerons required well
over 30 pounds of force to deflect at 100 mph. Now there are
a lot bigger ailerons out there than mine. Please pay attention
to this; it is crucial to consistent flying. If you have to use 1 ½"

horns, or 2" horns, you will need more servos.

32 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Sequencing

Many of the trimming articles I have seen over the years
incorporate some kind of chart or graph saying do this and this

happens and so on. My concept of sequencing your trimming
is simple. If you get your trimming out of sequence you will end
up chasing your tail. As with most things in this universe, for
every cause there is an effect, and the same applies to trimming
a model aircraft. So many times I see people test flying there
now aerobatic creation, flip the thing on its side and see what
kind of knife-edge mixing it may need. Thrust, Center of Gravity,
wing balancing and basic flight control trim can all affect knife

tracking.
I can’t make this point more loud and clear—it is very important

to trim your model in the correct sequence to make sure each

adjustment has no effect on the previous adjustment.
You will see I have broken each element down, and there is

an intentional order in which I recommend to trim a model.
Model balance, Center of Gravity is number 1, differential,
knife edge flight, down line tracking will all be affected by the
Center of Gravity. Next is dynamic balancing, known as “wing
tip weight.” Then comes thrust angles, aileron differential, and
finally programmable mixing, knife-edge tracking, roll coupling,
down line track. Finally if you change your propeller, your
whole trim setup will change.

Balance

OK, how do I know what is the correct CG for my model. If
in doubt, read the instructions. Yep, chances are somebody
from the TOC or similar has designed your aircraft and has
determined over many flights, where the Center of Gravity
should be. For precision flying forward is better, but… too
far forward can be a problem. I cannot put in writing what is
the best feel for each pilot, other than it is a feel thing. I can,
however, give you some symptoms of too far back and too far
forward, plus some simple tests I do to check.

One of my favorite ways to determine the correct Center of
Gravity is spin entries. For precision flying I would expect you to
be running between 12–15 degrees of elevator throw. If you feel
you need more than this, check your exponential—it may be too
high. Just as a starting point, 35% expo is what I call a linear
feel. What I like to have with my expo is when at half stick, I get
about 50% of the reaction of full stick, around 35–40% expo
gives you this with modest control deflections. Ok, if that didn’t
make sense: If I have my stick at full travel, my aircraft will roll
around 360–400 degrees per second, about right for precision.
Now when I only move my stick halfway, I should be looking for
180–200 degrees per second. Make sense?

If when entering a spin, your model mushes, kind of slides into
the spin with no real stall visible, you may be too far forward.
Another sign of forward is excessive down elevator needed
for inverted flight. This is not always the reason but is a sign.
Rear Center of Gravity is probably easier to see for most pilots.
Model is sensitive in pitch, unpredictable around the stall, climbs
when on an inverted 45 degree line are some I have noticed.
Center of Gravity is mainly about feel, each person will have
their preferences, each aircraft will have its preferences. Be
patient, spend some time on this one, it’s important you are
happy with your Center of Gravity. I would recommend at least
10–15 flights before making the commitment to where it needs
to be if it’s a new model.

33E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Dynamic Balance

Ok, we are happy with our Center of Gravity, so the next thing

is dynamic balance. This is really only relevant with wing tip
weight, most other axes on a model aircraft are not affected too
much by the dynamic effects of high G force loads. Having said
that, your wings are. Just because they both weigh the same,
and don’t carry any aileron trim doesn’t mean you can’t have
a wing weight problem. I have seen a myriad of ways to test
for wing weight trim—loops, pulling to vertical, and so on. My
suggestion is to think about the sequencing argument. If you do
loops, or pull to a vertical up line, the engine thrust can have
an effect, yet we haven’t got to trim our thrust angles yet. Think
about it, what could you do to check your wing tip weight in
flight that will not be affected by thrust. What I do is put the
model into a vertical dive (minimum of 3–4 seconds) and pull a
hard corner at the bottom. No matter where your wings are in
roll, when you pull to level, the wings must be level. Check this
concept with your stick plane. It really doesn’t matter where your
wings are, as you pull to horizontal flight your wings must be
level. If you attempt to pull a hard vertical from horizontal, you
must be absolutely sure your wings are perfectly level. I don’t
know about you guys, but I am not that good. If you go from
vertical to horizontal, not only will the engine thrust have no
effect but your wings can be anywhere as you are on a vertical
down line. Now when you pull the corner, the aircraft may be
pointing in a different direction than you planned, but that is ok,
as long as the wings are level. When I was told this wing weight
checking procedure years ago, it made so much sense. The
only thing I would recommend you pay attention to is making
sure you only use elevator through the corner. Don’t be quick
to make a decision. Have a friend observe the proceedings, do
many pull outs, and make absolutely sure before you move on
to the next step of trimming.

Thrust Angles

OK, guys, it’s time to put aside aesthetics and get that thrust
correct. I sure see a lot of spinners perfectly lining up these
days. One of the biggest deterrents to adjusting for the correct
thrust angles is the spinner won’t line up anymore. That’s true.
Once again, when building your model, pay attention to the
instructions, chances are somebody has figured it out pretty
close. What I like to do , or used to do, is test fly the model
before I paint the cowl. Once I am happy with thrust, I can
make the appropriate cosmetic changes to complete the model
before painting. Setting up the correct thrust angles is fairly
simple. Well, it’s simple to identify, harder to adjust.

Right thrust. Now we know our wing tip weight is correct, we
should be able to confidently perform some accurate vertical
up lines. Number one issue with this is making sure your wings
are level. Don’t guess, be absolutely sure your wings are level
before pulling to a vertical. I have seen people add unnecessary
right thrust as they were not level when pulling corners, leaving
an inside wing down (normal human behavior) and the
model would lean to the left. What I like to do is to fly directly
overhead, into the wind, where I can clearly see my wings, then
pull to a vertical up line. Ok, up we go, first 100’ is good, next
hundred feet is good, moving through 500’, still tracking well,
up over 1000’ now, still straight, coming up on 10,000, arrrrrh,
I see it drifting to the left a little. Ok , Ok, I am being sarcastic,
but I hope you see my point. Most vertical up lines in patterns I
have flown never exceed 1000’, well some do but it’s rare. You
will never get your thrust perfect up to 10,000 feet. If you're
working at it, best you can hope for is around 1000 or so feet.
Speed will have a huge effect of your thrust angle on a vertical
up line. Entry speed, compared to under load after climbing to
100' will be as much as 30–40mph slower. Now a great little
tip I learned for making the adjustments.

34 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

After many pull ups, you really need more right thrust, as you

pass through 500’ you can clearly see your model drifting to the
left. Here is the cool tip: apply some right rudder and continue
to apply it until it tracks straight. Bring the plan into land and
check your rudder deflection. Use a protractor to see how many
degrees of rudder you required for a straight vertical. Whatever
it is, divide it by 2 and that will be what you need to add to
your right thrust. If you have 2 degrees of right rudder, you will
need to add 1 deg more of right thrust. It works, it really does,
and it works both ways. If you need left rudder (too much right
thrust) you can use the same equation.

Differential

Aileron differential is one of the most important aspects of
model trim. With the multiple point rolls on both up and down
lines in today’s modern patterns, poor differential can be a real
headache. The good news is it’s pretty easy to detect and adjust
for axial rolls. The important thing at this stage of the game is
knowing our thrust, and wing weight is correct, then we can
proceed with our differential setups. You’re probably starting
to understand the importance of trimming your model, in the
correct sequence. Each step complements the last and should
have no negative effects in trim.

Aileron differential is required when the drag of the down going
aileron does not mach the up going aileron. No, I am definitely
not George Hicks, and to be truthful it scares me that George
will read this and realize how simple I think. Before we go
further, I would like to interject here, that you make absolutely
sure you are not getting surface blow back. You will never get
your differential correct if you are. It’s easy to check for. Push
to a vertical down line and roll to the right, stop rolling for a
second, then roll again. The roll rate should be the same. If it
is slowing, then your surfaces are not reaching their intended
throws. Another sign is your up line roll rate is faster than your
down. Please, you need to fix this. Do what needs to be done.
Either increase your servo power, or improve your geometry, by
reducing the servo horn radius, and/or increasing the distance
the control horn pickup is from the hinge line, or if you have lots
of cash, add more servos. Whatever path you take, you can’t
afford to have surface blow back as your flying will never be
consistent. Most modern radios have a differential program. I
have used both the ATV function or the Differential function and
both work well.

35E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

I want you to use the same technique as before when checking

for the thrust, only this time only pull to 45 degrees, making
sure you are either directly into the wind, or directly down wind.
Using full aileron deflection, roll to the right. If the aircraft (what
I call )walks to the right, then you have too much down travel
on your ailerons. If you roll to the right and the model “walks”
to the left, you have too much up travel in your ailerons. Repeat
this process to the left as well until you are satisfied your model
is tracking true in the roll axis. Like with the thrust angles, don’t
expect your model to continue to roll for 5000’ on a string—it
just can’t be done. As per previous recommendations, go for the
majority situation. With the correct differential on your model,
you will be amazed how easy it is to do hesitations on lines.

Programmable Mixing

You will notice this subject is the last in the sequence but for
many, it’s the first—many people go straight to this section
first. My model has 5% mix on rudder. I get phone calls all
the time from excited pilots. Pete, I just test flew my New Edge;
it only has 8% Aileron mix and 4% knife-edge mixing. Boy I
think, they sure got to the details of trimming their model faster
than I can. The point I like to make throughout this article is
to stick to the correct sequence. Know that only after perhaps
10–15, perhaps 20 flights, are we going to work on the mixing
to fine tune our model.

What I would like to do is to break up this Programmable Mix
section into 2 sections. The first is the down line, torque offset
or throttle offset mixing and second, the traditional rudder
elevator/aileron mixing. Most people have a fairly good
understandung of the latter, ruder to elev/aileron but not many
are using Throttle offset mixing. Some I have seen, but only
in the pitch compensation. What I would hope you all pay
attention to is what your model is doing on a down line, or
at reduced throttle (Idle) in the roll or Yaw axis. It’s both these
areas I see people struggle. One of the benefits of judging our
events is you see a lot of strange trim situations. Remembering
back at the Nationals, I can clearly remember models rolling
on down lines, and yawing off axis causing some strange­looking down line rolls. It’s almost impossible to have perfect
trim in roll at all speeds. All you can hope for is to mix out some
compensation to help reduce your workload. Both the Yaw and
Roll axis, in most cases have a bigger affect in your model track
on down lines than any other situation. Imagine what the effects
of a 5 degree error on every down line would mean. Over
the length of the box (Yes, I think we need a box to fly in) you
can drift in or out by as much as 150’ and the same applies
to the yaw axis. Ever noticed how hard it is to get your wings
level when approaching a pull corner with little time. With your
model rolling and yawing at different speeds, you will never
be consistent. It is hard enough to be absolutely sure that your
wings are level, let alone chase an out-of-trim situation.

36 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Good news is, it’s fairly easy to compensate for. Lets do the roll

axis first, you can do this 2 ways and both work well. In fact, I
would suggest you try both to get the best input.

Version 1 is to climb to a high altitude, simulating a typical top
of the box altitude and fly directly over your head and into the
wind. About 50–100 feet out from your self, push down.

You are now looking at the plan view of the model. Watch
carefully to see if the model is rolling on the down line. Most
models will roll slightly to the right. Personally, I have never
had a model that hasn’t needed a little left aileron mix on low
throttle. I’m not saying it can’t happen but I personally haven’t
seen it. The second way to check for throttle Aileron mix is to
fly along at level flight, medium height and reduce the throttle.
Watch carefully and see if your model is rolling, chances are it
will. Arrr, ever wondered why you always have to lean a little
left aileron entering spins, or why your model always falls one
way, perhaps it’s because your low power trim is not correct.

Ok, the second Programmable Mix is the throttle-to-rudder
mix. Same deal, it’s hard to get your model to track correctly in
the yaw axis at all speeds, your only hope is to apply a small
amount of "left" rudder on low throttle. To check for this, use
the same technique as the throttle-to-aileron: fly above yourself,
directly into the wind and push down in front of yourself and
watch carefully. You will be amazed, especially at the start of
the down line. If you haven’t got any throttle offset to rudder,
you are most likely flying around the problem, and where I find
it most challenging is in figure 9’s and vertical and horizontal
8’s. Any time you are using elevator and are off on the yaw
axis, it’s a bad hair day. I can hear all you guys thinking, yes
it’s true. Your model perhaps could need a little rudder mix on
low throttle. Give it a try, you will be amazed. I know of some
fairly experienced modelers that use the same theory but reverse
where the mix is. They use little to no right thrust on the engine
but have right rudder mixed on full throttle. That works well, or
so I’ve been told, but I haven’t tried it myself. One thing you
may want to experiment with in both these scenarios is where
the mix is activated. I like to have the stick offset at

least above half and let it progress from there. It seems to be
the best balance, plus I am not getting a sudden mix input; it
progresses more or less with the speed of the model. This will
vary from model to model but try to keep the mix activation well
above an idle setting.

Hopefully you have noticed when working through the trim

sequence how each trim adjustment has complemented the next
stage. Rudder Aileron Mix. In most cases only requires a linear
Programmable Mix. What I mean by linear Programmable Mix
is that you don’t need a progressive value to the mix. (i.e Less
at the start, more at the end and the mix will be linear.) Most
modern designs, with the exception of Bi-planes, are real close
and only require a small amount of Rudder Aileron Mix. It’s
fairly easy to identify. Some like to put their model on knife­edge, but I like to just do flat turns, simulating rolling turn inputs.
Remember, play the numbers, rolling turns require more precise
mixing than sustained knife-edge flight. In fact, you don’t do
much flying on your side at all, but you sure do a lot of rolling
turns. So, I like to do the flat turn thing. Doing a simple inside
rudder turn to the left, using left rudder, the model should just
yaw, with no roll effect. If the plane rolls to the left, then you
need to mix 2–5% right aileron to left rudder. My Cap is a little
unique as it has adverse roll. When I apply left rudder, the
model rolls right, so I need left aileron mixed with left rudder.
Repeat the process with right rudder. Now what I want you to
do is vary the speed in which you do your flat turns. If you find
as you increase your speed the mix becomes too much, you
could be getting surface blow back. Man, sorry to keep harping
about this but it is important. With insufficient rudder power,
when you apply a Programmable Mix for roll, or pitch for that
matter, the mix will become too much value as the rudder throw
reduces due to aerodynamic pressure. I see a few lights going
off again. Could this be why you have your mix perfect for knife
edge, but you chase your aircraft all over doing rolling circles?

37E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Rudder elevator. I think about 3 times in my entire life I had a

model that didn’t need rudder elevator compensation. Same as
with the previous rudder aileron, start by doing a flat turn to the
left and see what happens. If your model pitches down when
rudder is applied, then mix a small amount of up elevator: if it
pitches up, apply a small amount of down elevator. There are
some cases, even without blowback, the mix value will not be
exactly correct for all throttle settings.

Don’t panic, as with most modern radios suitable for Aerobatics,
you can use what is called a curve mix. This mix allows you
to have multiple points along your mix curve to increase or
decrease your mix value at different rudder inputs. My Cap is a
good example of this. At low rudder throws, I only need 1–2%
mix, but as the throw increases, I need up to 10%. If I just have
a 10%, mix it will be too much at small rudder inputs. The curve
mix is designed to solve this problem.

One of the most common questions I get asked is what can I
do to improve my aerobatic performance. My answer is unique
but I hope you will at least consider the next few comments. My
advice is not to let the ego take over your goals; practice hard
and focus on the fact there will always be somebody better than
you—from my experience there always was. This may seem
a little harsh, but in all my years of flying aerobatics, and not
to exclude myself in this comment, egos and over-confidence
can be the biggest hindrance in a pilot's ability to grow. Try to
avoid letting your ego be your only motivation. Be objective, be
humble, listen, watch and experiment, that’s what all the TOC
and Masters pilots do. Sure, we all have egos, but at some
stage of our lives our egos have let us down. We were humbled
and forced to listen and be objective.

That’s about it, stay cool and hopefully we can catch up at the
next aerobatic event.

Pete

38 E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

2007 Official AMA National
Model Aircraft Safety Code

GENERAL

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air

shows or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400
feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid
having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for
the flying site I use, and I will not willfully or deliberately
fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous
manner.

4) The maximum takeoff weight of a model is 55 pounds,
except models flown under Experimental Aircraft rules.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number on or in the model. (This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.)

6) I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or
with gaseous boosts, in which gases other than air enter
their internal combustion engine(s); nor will I operate
models with extremely hazardous fuels such as those
containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

RADIO CONTROL

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground range check before the first flight of a new or
repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the

other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with
flying the aircraft are allowed at or in front of the flight
line. Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission. (Only properly licensed
Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on
Amateur Band frequencies.)

5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more are
considered safe from site-to-site interference, even
when both sites use the same frequencies. Any
circumstances under three miles separation require
a frequency management arrangement, which may
be either an allocation of specific frequencies for
each site or testing to determine that freedom from
interference exists. Allocation plans or interference test
reports shall be signed by the parties involved and
provided to AMA Headquarters.

Documents of agreement and reports may exist between (1) two
or more AMA Chartered Clubs, (2) AMA clubs and individual
AMA members not associated with AMA Clubs, or (3) two or
more individual AMA members.

6) For Combat, distance between combat engagement
line and spectator line will be 500 feet per cubic inch
of engine displacement. (Example: .40 engine = 200
feet.); electric motors will be based on equivalent
combustion engine size. Additional safety requirements
will be per the RC Combat section of the current
Competition Regulations.

7) At air shows or model flying demonstrations, a single
straight line must be established, one side of which is for
flying, with the other side for spectators.

8) With the exception of events flown under AMA
Competition rules, after launch, except for pilots or
helpers being used, no powered model may be flown
closer than 25 feet to any person.

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight.

39E-flite Diamante 25e ARF Assembly Manual

Building and Flying Notes

9891

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