Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the problem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear. Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contamination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evidence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a substance other than brake fluid. The system seals
DRBRAKES - BASE5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
and cups will also have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake operation such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsation, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal several times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness variation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down process. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
• Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
• Loose/worn wheel bearing.
• Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
• Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
• Loose caliper mounting.
• Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
• Mis-assembled components.
• Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
5 - 4BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
• Contaminated lining in one caliper
• Seized caliper piston
• Binding caliper
• Loose caliper
• Rusty caliper slide surfaces
• Improper brake shoes
• Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condition is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag followed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driving through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replacement is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are frequently not caused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
DRBRAKES - BASE5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Generally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cylinder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leakage, or drawing air back into the system.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
Rear Disc Brake Caliper1x54 mm (2.12 in)
Rear Disc Brake Rotor350x22 mm (.86 in)
Brake Booster
Type
Gasoline Engines
Dual Piston Sliding
Single Piston Sliding
in.)
0.127 mm (0.005 in.)
0.025 mm (0.001 in.)
26.4 mm (1.039 in.)
28.39 mm (1.117 in)
Vacuum Dual Diaphragm
BRAKE LINES
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flaring screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 3).
(9) Tightentoolhandle untilpluggaugeis
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
5 - 8BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKE LINES (Continued)
Fig. 3 Inverted Flare Tools
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
To make a ISO flare use an ISO flaring tool kit.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 4). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 4).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake line from the hose at the
frame (Fig. 5).
(4) Remove the brake hose clip at the top of the
hose located at the frame (Fig. 5).
(5) Remove the vent tube (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove the two brake lines at the bottom of
the hose located at the axle (Fig. 6).
(7) Remove the mounting bolt for the brake hose
at the axle (Fig. 6).
(8) Remove the hose.
Fig. 4 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 5 BRAKE LINE CLIP
1 - BRAKE HOSE
2 - CLIP
3 - BRAKE LINE
REMOVAL - REAR TUBE / HOSE ASSEMBLY
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake line located at the axle.
(4) Remove the mounting bolt for the brake hose
at the axle (Fig. 7).
DRBRAKES - BASE5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)
Fig. 6 REAR HOSE
1 - BRAKE HOSE
2 - VENT HOSE
3 - BRAKE LINES
(5) Remove the banjo bolt at the caliper (Fig. 7).
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the brake hose at
the axle (Fig. 6).
(3) Install the two brake lines at the bottom of the
hose located at the axle (Fig. 6).
(4) Install the vent tube (Fig. 6).
(5) Install the brake hose clip at the top of the
hose located at the frame (Fig. 5).
(6) Install the brake line to the hose at the frame
(Fig. 5).
(7) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(8) Remove the prop rod.
(9) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - REAR TUBE / HOSE
ASSEMBLY
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the banjo bolt at the caliper (Fig. 7).
(3) Install the mounting bolt for the brake hose at
the axle (Fig. 7).
(4) Install the brake line located at the axle.
(5) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(6) Remove the prop rod.
(7) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the brake hose at
the frame (Fig. 9).
5 - 10BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKE LINES (Continued)
(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper
(Fig. 8).
(4) Reinstall the wheel speed sensor wire to the
brake hose (Fig. 8).
(1) Bottom pistons in caliper bore with C-clamp.
Place an old brake shoe between a C-clamp and caliper piston.
(2) Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle
springs.
(3) Lubricate anti-rattle springs with Mopar brake
grease.
(4) Install anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
(5) Install inboard brake shoe in adapter.
DRBRAKES - BASE5 - 11
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)
Fig. 14 Top Anti-Rattle Spring
1 - CALIPER ADAPTER
2 - ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
Fig. 12 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - INBOARD SHOE
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 13 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - OUTBOARD SHOE
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 15 Bottom Anti-Rattle Spring
1 - ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
(8) Install caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(9) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
vehicle, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pistons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.
(11) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
(6) Install outboard brake shoe in adapter.
(7) Tilt the top of the caliper over rotor and under
adapter. Then push the bottom of the caliper down
onto the adapter.
DESCRIPTION
The calipers are a single piston type in the rear
and dual piston type in the front. The calipers are
free to slide laterally, this allows continuous compensation for lining wear.
5 - 12BRAKES - BASEDR
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)
OPERATION
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper piston. The fluid pressure
is exerted equally and in all directions. This means
pressure exerted against the caliper piston and
within the caliper bore will be equal (Fig. 16).
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of piston extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
17). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amount
is just enough to maintain contact between the piston and inboard brake pad.
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brake pad. This forces the pad
lining against the inner surface of the disc brake
rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within the piston bore forces the caliper to slide inward on the
mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake pad lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamping action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal generates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and piston return to a rest position. The brake pads do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The reasons for this are to keep road debris from getting
Fig. 17 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with suction gun.
(5) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt if replacing
caliper (Fig. 18).
(6) Remove the caliper mounting slide pin bolts
(Fig. 18).
(7) Remove the caliper from vehicle.
REMOVAL - FRONT
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(3) Take another piece of wood and pad it with
one-inch thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in
the outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the
other piston. This will cushion and protect caliper
piston during removal (Fig. 22).
(4) To remove the caliper piston direct shortbursts of low pressure air with a blow gun
through the caliper brake hose port. Use only enough
air pressure to ease the piston out.
5 - 14BRAKES - BASEDR
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)
Fig. 22 Protect Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - PADDED BLOCK OF WOOD
3 - C-CLAMP
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PISTON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS COULD
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
(5) Remove the C-clamp and block of wood from
the caliper and clamp it over the dust boot of the
first piston removed. This will seal the empty piston
bore.
(6) Move the padded piece of wood in front of the
other piston.
(7) Remove the second piston using the same procedure with short bursts of low pressure air.
(8) Remove piston dust boots with a suitable pry
tool (Fig. 23).
(9) Remove piston seals from caliper (Fig. 24).
CAUTION: Do not scratch piston bore while removing the seals.
(10) Push caliper mounting bolt bushings out of
the boot seals and remove the boot seals from the
caliper (Fig. 25).
(11) Remove caliper bleed screw.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
Fig. 23 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
Fig. 24 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never interchange phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.
The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can be lightly polished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 26). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
Loading...
+ 31 hidden pages
You need points to download manuals.
1 point = 1 manual.
You can buy points or you can get point for every manual you upload.