Cub Cadet I-Beam Style User Manual
Introduction
The 22" wheeled string trimmer was intended
for clearing heavy growth from unimproved
land. This model has a blade brake clutch feature. When the control lever is released, the
trimmer line will stop rotating, but the engine
will continue running. See Figure 1-1.
22” STRING TRIMMER
Model 24A-253-401
1. Bend the pre-cut line in a U shape and insert it
through the outer pair of hoops on one side of
the spindle, keeping both sides of the “U”
equal. See Figure 1-3.
1
MTD also manufactures an 18" string trimmer
that does not have the blade brake clutch feature. When the control lever is released, the
engine is stopped as it would be on a conventional lawn mower. The primary difference
between the two models is that the control
cable on the 22" version is replaced with a
simple spring on the 18" model. They are otherwise very similar.
Trimmer Line
The trimmer line is a fixed length and can
easily be replaced following the diagram on
the front of the trimmer base assembly. See
Figure 1-2.
2. Double the lines back through the center
hoop. The string will now be in the shape of a
pretzel. See Figure 1-4.
1-1
3. Uncross the two lines so that they are roughly
parallel.
The line will be trimmed to final length by the
blade mounted under the deflector.
. All three nuts and bolts that secure the glide
ball to the spindle assembly can be removed
using a pair of 7/16" wrenches.
NOTE
Do not re-use the original hardware, new
hardware will be included with the glide ball.
Spindle
NOTE
The spindle cannot be serviced, and must be
replaced as a unit if it gets damaged. See Figure 1-6.
• 22" trimmer use .150" line, part number:
• 18" trimmer uses .130" line, part number:
The above numbers are for pre-cut lengths,
packaged in a quantity of ten. Bulk line may
also be used.
Glide Ball
The glide ball is available as service part number: 982-0143. See Figure 1-5
OEM-743-0110
OEM-743-0111
NOTE
NOTE
The cutting height is adjusted by sliding the
disc that the trimmer line is attached to up or
down the spindle shaft.
The disc is held in position by two wing nuts,
that must be loosened before making a height
adjustment, and retightened to hold that
adjustment.
The glide ball remains fixed, and the disc
moves in relation to the glide ball.
1-2
The wing nuts cannot be removed from their
studs: the threads are peened.
1. Remove the nuts from the four carriage bolts
that hold the deflector to the trimmer base
using a 7/16" wrench. See Figure 1-7.
2. Rotate the deflector so that the wide part of
the center hole in the deflector will fit past the
spindle. See Figure 1-8.
1
Figure 1-9.
4. Remove the belt keeper from the idler pulley
by loosening the lock nut with a 1/2" wrench.
See Figure 1-10.
3. Remove the deflector. See Figure 1-9.
Figure 1-10.
1-3
5. Remove the V-belt from the idler pulley. See
Figure 1-11.
9. Remove the hex nut and hex bolt that hold the
tensioner pulley arm to the trimmer base
using a 1/2" wrench.
NOTE
Record the mounting hardware as you
remove it. See Figure 1-13.
6. Grasp the idler bracket assembly and pull
inward until the belt can be removed from the
spindle assembly.
The torsion spring applies tension to the belt
brake at rest, and must be moved away from
the belt for removal.
7. Unhook the “Z” fitting (at the end of the
engagement cable) from the idler bracket.
See Figure 1-12.
8. Loosen the center hex bolt securing the spindle assembly to the trimmer base from the
top, using a 1/2" wrench.
Figure 1-11
NOTE
10. Remove the remaining five bolts which
secure the spindle to the trimmer base using
a 1/2" wrench.
Three of these bolts will also hold the belt
keeper in position. See Figure 1-14.
Figure 1-13.
NOTE
Figure 1-12
Figure 1-14.
11. Remove the center bolt from the spindle.
12. Remove the spindle.
13. Follow instructions in the reverse order to
assemble.
1-4
BELT REPLACEMENT
There are two different crankshaft pulleys that
have been used in string trimmer production.
Some string trimmers have engines equipped
with heavy engine flywheels, while other
engines have light engine flywheels. Because
there is not a conventional blade to add rotating mass to the crankshaft, a flywheel was
added to the crankshaft pulley used on the
engines that have light engine flywheels. The
pulley flywheel is large enough that the belt
will not fit over it. The belt will fit over the pulley which does not have a flywheel attached
to it. Because of this difference, there are two
different procedures for replacing the drive
belt. The first steps of both procedures are
the same. See Figure 1-15.
NOTE
5. Remove the carriage bolts and the deflector.
Remove the belt keeper from the tensioner
pulley by loosening the lock nut with a 1/2"
wrench.
6. Remove the belt keeper from the tensioner
pulley by loosening the lock nut with a 1/2"
wrench.
7. Remove the V-Belt from the Idler pulley.
8. Grasp the idler bracket assembly and pull
inward until the belt can be removed from the
spindle assembly.
NOTE
The torsion spring applies tension to the belt
brake at rest, and must be moved away from
the belt for removal.
9. Unhook the “Z” fitting (at the end of the
engagement cable) from the idler bracket.
See Figure 1-16.
1
Figure 1-15.
IMPORTANT:
been running.
1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug wire.
2. Drain the fuel tank.
3. Position the trimmer so the rear edge of the
trimmer base is resting securely on a work
bench, and pivot the handle down.
The handle should be securely weighted
down, so the trimmer stands on end.
4. Remove the hex nuts from the carriage bolts
that secure the deflector shield to the trimmer
base using a 7/16" wrench.
Allow the engine to cool if it has
NOTE
Figure 1-16.
10. Loosen, but do not remove the three nuts that
secure the belt keeper, and spindle assembly
to the trimmer base using a 1/2" wrench.
TRIMMERS WITH PULLEY FLYWHEELS
NOTE
For trimmers equipped with pulley fly wheels,
perform steps 1 through 10, then follow these
steps;
1-5
1. Secure the pulley flywheel so that it will not
spin during removal of the crankshaft bolt.
See Figure 1-17.
Figure 1-17.
2. Remove the crankshaft bolt using a 5/8"
wrench.
3. Remove the bolt from the left side of the axle
using a 7/16" wrench.
TRIMMERS WITH STANDARD CRANkSHAFT
PULLEYS
NOTE
For trimmers equipped with standard crank-
shaft pulleys, follow steps 1 through 10, then
complete these steps;
1. Loosen, but do not remove the remaining nuts
that fasten the spindle and belt tensioner
bracket to the trimmer base using a 1/2"
wrench. See Figure 1-19.
4. Remove the left wheel and slide the right
wheel and axle out of the trimmer frame. See
Figure 1-18.
Figure 1-18.
5. Roll the belt off of the pulley flywheel.
6. Slip the pulley flywheel off of the engine crank
shaft.
Figure 1-19.
2. Loosen, but do not remove the center bolt that
fastens the spindle to the trimmer frame using
a 1/2" wrench.
3. Loosen, but do not remove the three bolts that hold
the engine and engine pulley belt keeper to the
trimmer frame, using a 1/2" wrench. See Figure 1-
20.
7. Remove the belt.
Follow the instructions in the reverse order to
install the belt.
Figure 1-20.
1-6
4. Roll the belt off of the crankshaft pulley, and
slip the belt between the pulley and the rear
axle. See Figure 1-21.
Figure 1-21.
5. Remove the belt from the spindle pulley.
6. Follow hte instructions in the reverse order to
install the belt.
There is a stop welded to the axle where it
passes through the right hand side of the trimmer base. This stop will not allow the axle to
slide or rotate. See Figure 1-23.
Figure 1-23.
There is a removable spacer and wave
washer between the left hand side wheel and
the trimmer base. See Figure 1-24.
1
The belt has been updated from part number
754-0489 to part number 754-0625. The new
belt is more resistant to stretching.
The control cable is secured to the axle, make
certain it is clear of rotating parts.
WHEELS AND AXLE
Each wheel can be removed by taking off a
single bolt and washer, using a 7/16" wrench.
See Figure 1-22.
NOTE
NOTE
Figure 1-24.
To remove the axle;
1. Remove the left hand side wheel bolt.
2. Slide the axle and wheel to the right, as
described in the belt removal section.
OTHER FEATURES
Figure 1-22.
The control handle on the 22" model is
equipped with a safety lock-out. See Figure 1-
25.
1-7
Figure 1-25.
Figure 1-26.
There is a debris screen over the cooling fan.
Its presence is necessary to prevent the cooling fins from getting clogged. Customers
should not operate the trimmer without the
screen in place. See Figure 1-26.
A single wing nut holds the screen in place,
and is easily removed for cleaning.
1-8
CHORE PERFORMERS
2-1. EDGER.
the operation in both positions after making
any adjustment to the rod. Secure lower clutch
rod with flat washer and hairpin clip when
adjustment is correct.
2
WARNING
When operating the edger, stop engine immediately and readjust the clutch rod if blade
turns with blade clutch/depth lever in the disengaged position.
2-1.1 Checking the Clutch Rod Adjustment.
The clutch rod on your edger has been preadjusted at the factory. Before operating the
edger, check the adjustment of the clutch rod
as follows.
1. Disconnect the spark plug wire and move it
away from the spark plug.
2. With the blade clutch/depth control lever in the
disengaged position (notch nearest the operator’s position), carefully pull the recoil starter
rope. The belt on the edger should not turn. If
the belt (and blade) turns, remove the hairpin
clip and flat washer, and remove the lower
clutch rod from the pivot arm extension. See
Figure 2-2. Turn the clutch rod one or two turns
clockwise to shorten the rod. Insert lower
clutch rod into pivot arm extension, and
recheck the adjustment.
3. Check to be certain the blade clutch/depth
control lever can be moved to the furthest
notch forward. If not, remove the hairpin clip
and flat washer, and turn the clutch rod one or
two turns clockwise to shorten the rod. Insert
lower clutch rod into pivot arm extension, and
recheck the adjustment. Be certain to recheck
2-1.2 Belt Removal and Replacement.
1. Remove belt guard assembly at engine pulley
by first removing hex nuts and lock washers.
See Figure 2-3.
2-1
2. Remove belt guard at spindle assembly by
removing two hex bolts, lock washers and hex
nuts. See Figure 2-4.
3. Remove old belt and reassemble with new
belt, part number 754-0142.
release adjustment lever on pivot bracket and
rotate spindle housing. Place adjustment lever
in notch desired. See Figure 2-5.
CAUTION
If wheels are not adjusted, the blade will hit the
left front wheel causing the belt to slip.
2. When the blade is adjusted toward the horizontal position, the front wheels must also be
adjusted. Remove two hairpin clips and slide
spacer and wheel to the right. Reinsert hairpin
clips.
NOTE
While the belt cover is removed, it is a good
idea to apply a little grease to the pivot point on
belt cover.
2-1.3 Blade Plane Adjustment.
1. The cutting blade can be adjusted to eight
positions from vertical to horizontal. To adjust,
2-2
CHORE PERFORMERS
2
2-3
2-4
TILLERS
3-1. GENERAL.
For further information regarding this section,
refer to Technical Service Video “Chain Case
Teardown 410- 420 Tiller.”
3-1.1 Tillers are a precision built machine designed
for seed bed preparation, cultivating, furrowing
and mulching. They are engineered to minimize the hardest work in the vegetable or
flower garden, to till the soil for planting and
cultivating and to perform many other useful
labor saving tasks in the garden.
3-1.2 The operation of a tiller can be relatively easy if
the operator understands the basic concept of
tilling procedure and the limitations of the
equipment. Carefully note the following:
CAUTION
Be sure the area to be tilled is free of damagecausing debris. If you are working in soil of
doubtful content, till at SLOW speed and be
alert for any obstruction and be ready to
release the clutch lever instantly.
1. The tiller is not intended to be used in small,
confined spaces where hand spading is more
practical. Tillers are designed to operate in
open areas where there is a big job to do and
where there is freedom of movement.
2. While the tiller can be used on sod covered
ground, it is intended to work in open ground.
On sod covered ground the tiller will want to
buck and run and will require considerable
physical effort by the operator.
3. Do not try to hold back on the tiller to restrict its
movement. The basic idea is to let the depth
bar restrain the forward movement of the tines
and in so doing, cause the tines to dig rather
than run. Thus, it is essential that you use the
depth bar properly.
5. To begin operation of the tiller, proceed as follows:
a. With the depth bar set and staked into the
soil and with the clutch in the neutral position, start the engine.
b. Push down on the handles to drive the
depth bar firmly into the ground.
c. With the engine running at SLOW speed,
tilt the tiller back slightly to lift the tines off
the ground, engage the clutch lever slowly
to start the tines rotating and then slowly
lower the tines into the ground.
6. The rotation speed of the tines is determined
by the engine speed and thus is controlled by
the throttle control. Tilling should be done at
SLOW engine speed and increased only if the
ground conditions permit.
7. Under some ground conditions the tiller may
want to bog down. In this case raise and lower
the handles. This motion helps the tines dig out
and move forward and also releases some of
the restraint of the depth bar.
8. Do not try tilling ground that is overly wet. Wait
until the ground is dry enough to crumble
rather freely.
9. Till using a criss-cross pattern. Till in one direction with parallel paths and then till across
them at a 90 degree angle.
10. In making the first cut in untilled ground, the
tiller will track a straight path rather easily.
However, on subsequent passes, there will be
a tendency for the tines to work toward the
loose soil. Moving the handles side to side
should help maintain a straight path. If you use
a criss-cross pattern you need not till the parallel paths as close and therefore the straight
path problem is practically eliminated.
3
4. To use the tiller, move it (with the depth bar up
or in the released position) to the area to be
tilled. Once in position, lower the depth bar or
wheels to the approximate digging depth you
want. If you are going to dig deep on untilled
ground it is better to make several passes, digging deeper on each pass.
3-2. MODEL 031 FRONT TINE TILLER.
3-2.1 This tiller has been manufactured with 2 HP
and 3 HP engines. The 2 HP tiller is Model
020. The 3 HP is 030. Model 031 is basically
the same as the 030 except for the handle
panel and controls. The chain case is sealed at
the factory and there is no need to check the
3-1
TILLERS
3-1. GENERAL.
For further information regarding this section,
refer to Technical Service Video “Chain Case
Teardown 410- 420 Tiller.”
3-1.1 Tillers are a precision built machine designed
for seed bed preparation, cultivating, furrowing
and mulching. They are engineered to minimize the hardest work in the vegetable or
flower garden, to till the soil for planting and
cultivating and to perform many other useful
labor saving tasks in the garden.
3-1.2 The operation of a tiller can be relatively easy if
the operator understands the basic concept of
tilling procedure and the limitations of the
equipment. Carefully note the following:
CAUTION
Be sure the area to be tilled is free of damagecausing debris. If you are working in soil of
doubtful content, till at SLOW speed and be
alert for any obstruction and be ready to
release the clutch lever instantly.
1. The tiller is not intended to be used in small,
confined spaces where hand spading is more
practical. Tillers are designed to operate in
open areas where there is a big job to do and
where there is freedom of movement.
2. While the tiller can be used on sod covered
ground, it is intended to work in open ground.
On sod covered ground the tiller will want to
buck and run and will require considerable
physical effort by the operator.
3. Do not try to hold back on the tiller to restrict its
movement. The basic idea is to let the depth
bar restrain the forward movement of the tines
and in so doing, cause the tines to dig rather
than run. Thus, it is essential that you use the
depth bar properly.
5. To begin operation of the tiller, proceed as follows:
a. With the depth bar set and staked into the
soil and with the clutch in the neutral position, start the engine.
b. Push down on the handles to drive the
depth bar firmly into the ground.
c. With the engine running at SLOW speed,
tilt the tiller back slightly to lift the tines off
the ground, engage the clutch lever slowly
to start the tines rotating and then slowly
lower the tines into the ground.
6. The rotation speed of the tines is determined
by the engine speed and thus is controlled by
the throttle control. Tilling should be done at
SLOW engine speed and increased only if the
ground conditions permit.
7. Under some ground conditions the tiller may
want to bog down. In this case raise and lower
the handles. This motion helps the tines dig out
and move forward and also releases some of
the restraint of the depth bar.
8. Do not try tilling ground that is overly wet. Wait
until the ground is dry enough to crumble
rather freely.
9. Till using a criss-cross pattern. Till in one direction with parallel paths and then till across
them at a 90 degree angle.
10. In making the first cut in untilled ground, the
tiller will track a straight path rather easily.
However, on subsequent passes, there will be
a tendency for the tines to work toward the
loose soil. Moving the handles side to side
should help maintain a straight path. If you use
a criss-cross pattern you need not till the parallel paths as close and therefore the straight
path problem is practically eliminated.
3
4. To use the tiller, move it (with the depth bar up
or in the released position) to the area to be
tilled. Once in position, lower the depth bar or
wheels to the approximate digging depth you
want. If you are going to dig deep on untilled
ground it is better to make several passes, digging deeper on each pass.
3-2. MODEL 031 FRONT TINE TILLER.
3-2.1 This tiller has been manufactured with 2 HP
and 3 HP engines. The 2 HP tiller is Model
020. The 3 HP is 030. Model 031 is basically
the same as the 030 except for the handle
panel and controls. The chain case is sealed at
the factory and there is no need to check the
3-1
grease level. If the case is disassembled the
grease can be replaced. See Figure 3-1. For a
summary of specifications for Model 031, see
Table 3-1.
2. With clutch grip released (neutral position), pull
starter cord several times. The tines should not
turn. If they do, adjust the hex nuts at the
clutch cable bracket. Check again for correct
adjustment.
3-2.2 Clutch Adjustment.
Adjust clutch as follows:
3-2.3 Belt System.
1. The clutch idler disengages the belt when you
release the clutch control lever. This will disengage the tines and allow the tiller to be in a
neutral position. See Figure 3-2.
2. If the engine pulley is removed note how it is
assembled. The hub is to the inside. Check the
V-belt alignment between the engine pulley
and chain case pulley.
Note the following:
WARNING
Disconnect spark plug wire from spark plug
and ground it against engine block (secure in V
slot) before making any adjustments or performing maintenance.
NOTE
Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.
1. Hold the clutch grip so that the grip is down
against the handle. Adjust clutch control cable
so that the slack is taken out of the control
wire. Tighten two hex nuts at cable support
bracket. Control wire should now be straight.
3-2.4 Belt Removal and Replacement.
1. Remove belt cover assembly by removing one
hex nut and lock washer, one self-tapping
screw, one hex bolt, flat washer and hex nut
and one hex bolt and external lock washer.
2. Lift belt cover assembly off tiller. Be careful not
to bend or kink clutch cable.
3. Remove belt and position new belt on engine
pulley and chain case pulley. See Figure 3-2.
4. Upon reassembly of belt cover, place belt over
top of idler pulley and between engine pulley
and weld pin on belt cover assembly.
5. Fasten belt cover assembly in position. Secure
with the hardware removed in step 1.
3-2
When tilling, leave approximately 8 inches of
untilled soil between the first and second tilling
paths, then make the third path between the
first and second as shown. In some soils, the
desired depth is obtained the first time over the
garden. In other soils, the desired depth is
obtained by going over the garden two or three
times. In the latter case, the depth stake
should be lowered before each succeeding
pass over the garden. Passes should be made
across the length and width of the garden alternately. Rocks which are turned up should be
removed from the garden area. See Figure 3-
5.
3
3-2A.1 CONTROLLING SPEED AND TILLING
DEPTH:
1. Depth Stake Adjustment: The depth stake acts
as a brake for the tiller and controls the depth
and speed at which the machine will operate.
Remove the clevis pin and hairpin clip to raise
or lower depth stake. See Figure 3-4.
By increasing the depth of the depth stake, the
forward speed of the machine is reduced, and
the working depth is increased. When the
depth stake is raised, the working depth of the
machine is reduced and the forward speed is
increased.
2. Handle Pressure: Further control of tilling
depth and travel speed can be obtained by
variation of pressure on the handles. A downward pressure on the handles will reduce the
working depth and increase the forward speed.
An upward pressure on the handles will
increase the working depth and reduce the forward speed. The type of soil and working conditions will determine the actual setting of the
depth stake and the handle pressure required.
3. Throttle Control: The throttle control lever
adjusts the engine speed and stops the
engine. With the throttle control pushed completely to the right, the carburetor is in START
or FAST position. Pulling the throttle back
reduces the engine speed to IDLE. Pull the
throttle completely back to stop the engine.
Use maximum engine speed for deep tilling.
Move the throttle control to IDLE when transporting the tiller.
Model Series 035
3-2A.2 CULTIVATING
3-3
For cultivating, a two to three inch depth is
desirable. The throttle should be set to control
forward movement to a slow walking speed.
With the outer tines installed, the working width
of the machine is 18 inches. For cultivation,
this may be reduced to 14 inches by removing
the outer tines. Use a 3/8" wrench to remove
the two self-tapping screws on the outside of
the tines. Replace the first tine removed as
shown. See Figure 3-6.
When laying out plant rows, be sure to allow
enough width to permit cultivation between the
rows. In growing corn or similar crops, checkrow planting will permit cross cultivation and
practically eliminate hand hoeing. See Figure
3-9.
The minimum tilling width is 10 inches.
Remove both sets of outer tines by removing
the two self-tapping screws on the outside of
the tines. See Figure 3-8.
3-4
Chain Case
and sealed at the factory. It requires no checking unless the chain case is disassembled. To
fill with grease, lay the right half of the chain
case on its side. Add 10 ounces of Benalene
#372-0 grease and assemble the left half to the
right half.
—The chain case is pre-lubricated
3
3-5
3-6
3-2.5 Disassembly of Tine Chain Case.
as follows:
1. Remove chain case from tiller.
2. Remove self-tapping screws, hex bolts, lock
washers and hex nuts from the outer edge of
chain case.
3. Remove hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut
from the center of chain case.
Proceed
6. Separate halves of the chain case housing. Be
careful not to damage the chain case gasket.
Replace if necessary.
NOTE
The drive system has 2 chain reduction steps.
Each step reduces the speed and increases
the torque or power down to the axle shaft. The
reduction is done with the use of a #35 chain to
a #420 chain.
7. Push input shaft inward slightly. Lift up on hub
sprocket assembly and remove the #35 chain
from the sprocket. See Figure 3-13.
3
4. Remove self-tapping screws from bearing
housing. See Figure 3-12.
Figure 3-12.
5. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input
shaft.
NOTE
This will allow slack in the other chain which
can be removed by lifting off the sprockets.
The hub sprocket assemblies will also be
removed from the housing during this procedure.
8. To disassemble the hub sprocket assembly,
slide the spacer out of the bearing. On an
arbor press place a spacer or similar tool on
the OD of the bearing and press bearing out of
hub sprocket assembly. See Figure 3-14.
3-7
CAUTION
Both bearings must be pressed from the outside towards the center of housing. Pressure
should be exerted on the outer race or damage will result causing premature failure.
11. Inspection of Parts.
a. Inspect chains for breakage or bent clips
(master links).
b. Inspect sprockets and shafts for excessive
wear or breakage.
c. Inspect bearings on input and output
shafts for excessive wear.
9. To remove the tine shaft assembly simply pull
the complete assembly out of the housing. See
Figure 3-15.
NOTE
The chain case is lubricated with 10 ounces of
plastilube #0 grease to keep the bearings and
chains operating in a constant lubrication bath.
CAUTION
When reassembling, make certain the step
spacer and washer are positioned properly or
damage to the shaft assembly and/or bearings will result.
10. Remove bearings from the housing using an
arbor press. See Figure 3-16.
d. Inspect spacers and washers for exces-
sive wear.
3-2.6 Chain Case Seal and Bearing Replacement.
Proceed as follows:
WARNING
Disconnect spark plug wire and ground against
engine.
1. On a bench or suitable surface, block up the
chain case so that the tines clear the bench.
2. Remove the hardware which secures the tines
to the shaft and remove from unit.
3-8
NOTE
The dust caps have a molded lip on the ID
which seats into a groove in the bearing hub
allowing for a tight fit.
3. Carefully pry off dust caps from housing
assembly.
5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller
housing with self-tapping screws removed in
step 3.
6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard
removed in step 2.
3-3. Model 310/700 Tiller.
4. Pry old seal out of housing assembly and slide
off shaft.
5. Remove any rust or foreign material from shaft
and thoroughly clean to avoid damage or contamination to seal or bearing.
6. Apply a generous amount of oil to shaft and
new seal and carefully slide seal into position.
Make certain the new seal is completely
seated against the shaft bearing.
7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are
fully seated on the bearing hub.
8. Reattach the tines with the hardware removed
in step 3.
3-2.7 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.
WARNING
Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it
against engine.
3-3.1 This tiller has forward speed only. There is no
reverse. The chain case has a two step reduction. The V-belt goes from a small engine pulley to a large input on the chain case. The
chain case is sealed at the factory and there is
no need to check or change the lubricant
unless the chain case has been disassembled
for repair. See Figure 3-17. For a summary of
specifications for Model 310/700, see Table 3-
2.
3
1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from
input shaft.
2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure
bearing housing to tiller housing.
3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input
shaft.
NOTE
Pressure should be applied to the outer race of
the bearing and the housing should be secured
properly. Any force exerted on the inner race
will result in bearing damage or premature failure.
4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with
a new bearing.
3-3.2 The most common mistake made on any tiller
is assembling the tines backwards. THE
SHARP EDGE OF THE TINES MUST ENTER
THE SOIL FIRST.
3-9
NOTE
The dust caps have a molded lip on the ID
which seats into a groove in the bearing hub
allowing for a tight fit.
3. Carefully pry off dust caps from housing
assembly.
5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller
housing with self-tapping screws removed in
step 3.
6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard
removed in step 2.
3-3. Model 310/700 Tiller.
4. Pry old seal out of housing assembly and slide
off shaft.
5. Remove any rust or foreign material from shaft
and thoroughly clean to avoid damage or contamination to seal or bearing.
6. Apply a generous amount of oil to shaft and
new seal and carefully slide seal into position.
Make certain the new seal is completely
seated against the shaft bearing.
7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are
fully seated on the bearing hub.
8. Reattach the tines with the hardware removed
in step 3.
3-2.7 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.
WARNING
Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it
against engine.
3-3.1 This tiller has forward speed only. There is no
reverse. The chain case has a two step reduction. The V-belt goes from a small engine pulley to a large input on the chain case. The
chain case is sealed at the factory and there is
no need to check or change the lubricant
unless the chain case has been disassembled
for repair. See Figure 3-17. For a summary of
specifications for Model 310/700, see Table 3-
2.
3
1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from
input shaft.
2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure
bearing housing to tiller housing.
3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input
shaft.
NOTE
Pressure should be applied to the outer race of
the bearing and the housing should be secured
properly. Any force exerted on the inner race
will result in bearing damage or premature failure.
4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with
a new bearing.
3-3.2 The most common mistake made on any tiller
is assembling the tines backwards. THE
SHARP EDGE OF THE TINES MUST ENTER
THE SOIL FIRST.
3-9
3-3.3 Clutch Adjustment.
2. After removing three screws, lift off belt cover.
WARNING
Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it
against engine before performing any adjustments, repairs or maintenance.
NOTE
Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.
1. With clutch lever released (in up position),
adjust the bottom nut at the cable bracket so
there is 1/2 inch of slack in the control wire.
See Figure 3-18. Tighten upper nut against
bracket. Squeeze clutch lever against handle.
The control wire should now be straight.
3. Slip belt off chain case pulley first then off idler
pulley. Remove belt from engine pulley. See
Figure 3-20.
4. To reassemble new belt, first place belt over
engine pulley. Be sure belt is inside two pins at
engine pulley.
5. Belt must be over top of idler pulley. Slip end of
belt over chain case pulley.
2. Secure end of spark plug wire in the V slot on
the engine. With clutch grip released (neutral
position), pull starter cord several times. The
tines should not turn. If they do, adjust hex
nuts at clutch cable bracket. Check again for
correct adjustment.
3-3.4 Belt Removal and Replacement.
NOTE
Your tiller has been engineered with a belt
made of special material (Kevlar Tensile). It
should not be replaced with an off-the-shelf
belt.
1. Remove the belt cover by removing three selftapping screws. A 3/8 inch wrench is required.
See Figure 3-19.
6. Reassemble belt cover.
3-3.5 Disassembly of Tine Chain Case.
1. Remove chain case from tiller.
3-10
2. Remove self-tapping screws, hex bolts, lock
washers and hex nuts from the outer edge of
chain case.
3. Remove hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut
from the center of chain case.
4. Remove self-tapping screws from bearing
housing. See Figure 3-21.
5. Slide bearing housing and bearing off the input
shaft.
3
NOTE
This will allow slack in the other chain which
can be removed by lifting off the sprockets.
The hub sprocket assemblies will also be
removed from the housing during this procedure.
8. To disassemble hub sprocket assembly, slide
spacer out of bearing. On an arbor press
remove bearing by placing a spacer or similar
tool on the OD of bearing and press out. See
Figure 3-24.
6. Separate the halves of the chain case housing.
Be careful not to damage chain case gasket.
Replace if necessary.
NOTE
The drive system has 2 chain reduction steps.
Each step reduces the speed and increases
the torque or power down to the axle shaft. The
reduction is done with the use of a #35 chain to
a #50 chain. See Figure 3-22.
7. Push input shaft inward slightly. Lift up on hub
sprocket assembly and remove #35 chain from
the sprocket. See Figure 3-23.
9. To remove tine shaft assembly simply pull the
complete assembly out of the housing. See
Figure 3-25.
3-11
CAUTION
When reassembling, make certain the step
spacers and washers are positioned properly
or damage to the shaft assembly and/or bearings will result. (Cupped side faces sprocket.)
NOTE
The chain case is lubricated with 12 ounces of
plastilube #0 grease to keep the bearings and
chains operating in a constant lubrication bath.
10. Remove bearings from housing using an arbor
press. See Figure 3-26.
NOTE
Both bearings must be pressed from the outside towards the center of housing as shown.
Pressure should be exerted on the outer race
or damage will result causing premature failure.
3-3.6 Chain Case Seal and Bearing Replacement.
WARNING
Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it
against engine.
1. On a bench or suitable surface, block up chain
case so that tines/wheels clear the bench.
2. Remove the hardware which secures the tines
to shaft and remove from unit.
3. Carefully pry off dust caps from housing
assembly.
NOTE
The dust caps have a molded lip on the ID
which seats into a groove in the bearing hub
allowing for a tight fit.
4. Pry old seals out of housing assembly and
slide off shaft.
5. Remove any rust or foreign material from shaft
and thoroughly clean to avoid damage or contamination to seal.
6. Apply a generous amount of oil to shaft and
new seal and carefully slide seal into position.
Make certain new seal is completely seated
against shaft bearing.
3-12
7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are
fully seated on the bearing hub.
8. Reattach tines/wheels with the hardware
removed in step 3.
3-3.7 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.
WARNING
Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it
against engine.
1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from
input shaft.
2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure
bearing housing to tiller housing.
3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input
shaft.
4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with
a new bearing.
CAUTION
Pressure should be applied to the outer race of
the bearings and the housing should be
secured properly. Any force exerted on the
inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.
5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller
housing with self-tapping screws removed in
step 3.
3
3-4.1 Forward Drive Belt Removal and Replace-
ment.
1. Remove belt guard by removing four hex selftapping screws.
2. Press down on left side of tine shield and slip
off belt guard.
3. Remove forward drive belt from beneath belt
retainer.
4. Roll belt off transmission pulley.
5. Remove belt from around engine pulley and lift
it off idler pulley. See Figure 3-28.
6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard
removed in step 2.
3-4. MODEL 381 TILLER. See Figure 3-27 and
Table 3-3.
NOTE
Make certain the forward drive belt is assembled with the wide side of the belt away from
transmission and engine pulleys.
3-13
8. Reattach tines/wheels with the hardware
removed in step 3.
3-3.7 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.
WARNING
Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it
against engine.
1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from
input shaft.
2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure
bearing housing to tiller housing.
3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input
shaft.
4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with
a new bearing.
CAUTION
Pressure should be applied to the outer race of
the bearings and the housing should be
secured properly. Any force exerted on the
inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.
5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller
housing with self-tapping screws removed in
step 3.
3
3-4.1 Forward Drive Belt Removal and Replace-
ment.
1. Remove belt guard by removing four hex selftapping screws.
2. Press down on left side of tine shield and slip
off belt guard.
3. Remove forward drive belt from beneath belt
retainer.
4. Roll belt off transmission pulley.
5. Remove belt from around engine pulley and lift
it off idler pulley. See Figure 3-28.
6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard
removed in step 2.
3-4. MODEL 381 TILLER. See Figure 3-27 and
Table 3-3.
NOTE
Make certain the forward drive belt is assembled with the wide side of the belt away from
transmission and engine pulleys.
3-13
6. Reassemble the new belt following instructions
in reverse order.
5. Reassemble new belt following instructions in
reverse order.
3-4.2 Reverse Drive Belt Removal and Replace-
ment.
1. To remove reverse drive belt, first remove forward drive belt as instructed in the previous
paragraph.
2. Remove reverse drive belt from beneath belt
retainer.
3. Roll belt off transmission pulley. Remove it
from beneath forward idler bracket. See Figure
3-29.
3-4.3 Disassembly of Tine Chain Case.
Disassemble as follows:
1. Remove chain case from tiller.
2. Remove self-tapping screws, hex bolts, lock
washers and hex nuts from the outer edge of
chain case.
3. Remove hex bolt, lock washers, and hex nut
from center of the chain case. See Figure 3-31.
4. Remove hex nut which secures reverse idler
pulley to idler bracket. Slide idler pulley out and
remove belt. See Figure 3-30.
NOTE
Make certain reverse drive belt is assembled
with the wide side of the belt against transmission and engine pulleys.
4. Remove self-tapping screws from bearing
housing. See Figure 3-32.
5. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input
shaft.
6. Separate the halves of chain case housing. Be
careful not to damage chain case gasket.
Replace if necessary. See Figure 3-33.
3-14
Loading...