Cub Cadet I-Beam Style User Manual

Introduction

The 22" wheeled string trimmer was intended for clearing heavy growth from unimproved land. This model has a blade brake clutch feature. When the control lever is released, the trimmer line will stop rotating, but the engine will continue running. See Figure 1-1.

22” STRING TRIMMER

Model 24A-253-401

1. Bend the pre-cut line in a U shape and insert it through the outer pair of hoops on one side of the spindle, keeping both sides of the “U” equal. See Figure 1-3.

MTD also manufactures an 18" string trimmer that does not have the blade brake clutch feature. When the control lever is released, the engine is stopped as it would be on a conventional lawn mower. The primary difference between the two models is that the control cable on the 22" version is replaced with a simple spring on the 18" model. They are otherwise very similar.

Trimmer Line

The trimmer line is a fixed length and can easily be replaced following the diagram on the front of the trimmer base assembly. See Figure 1-2.

2. Double the lines back through the center hoop. The string will now be in the shape of a pretzel. See Figure 1-4.

1-1

3. Uncross the two lines so that they are roughly parallel.

The line will be trimmed to final length by the blade mounted under the deflector.

. All three nuts and bolts that secure the glide

ball to the spindle assembly can be removed using a pair of 7/16" wrenches.

NOTE

Do not re-use the original hardware, new hardware will be included with the glide ball.

Spindle

NOTE

The spindle cannot be serviced, and must be replaced as a unit if it gets damaged. See Figure 1-6.

• 22" trimmer use .150" line, part number:

• 18" trimmer uses .130" line, part number:

The above numbers are for pre-cut lengths, packaged in a quantity of ten. Bulk line may also be used.

Glide Ball

The glide ball is available as service part number: 982-0143. See Figure 1-5

OEM-743-0110

OEM-743-0111

NOTE

The cutting height is adjusted by sliding the disc that the trimmer line is attached to up or down the spindle shaft.

The disc is held in position by two wing nuts, that must be loosened before making a height adjustment, and retightened to hold that adjustment.

The glide ball remains fixed, and the disc moves in relation to the glide ball.

1-2

The wing nuts cannot be removed from their studs: the threads are peened.

1. Remove the nuts from the four carriage bolts that hold the deflector to the trimmer base using a 7/16" wrench. See Figure 1-7.

2. Rotate the deflector so that the wide part of the center hole in the deflector will fit past the spindle. See Figure 1-8.

Figure 1-9.

4. Remove the belt keeper from the idler pulley by loosening the lock nut with a 1/2" wrench. See Figure 1-10.

3. Remove the deflector. See Figure 1-9.

Figure 1-10.

1-3

5. Remove the V-belt from the idler pulley. See Figure 1-11.

9. Remove the hex nut and hex bolt that hold the tensioner pulley arm to the trimmer base using a 1/2" wrench.

NOTE

Record the mounting hardware as you remove it. See Figure 1-13.

6. Grasp the idler bracket assembly and pull inward until the belt can be removed from the spindle assembly.

The torsion spring applies tension to the belt brake at rest, and must be moved away from the belt for removal.

7. Unhook the “Z” fitting (at the end of the engagement cable) from the idler bracket. See Figure 1-12.

8. Loosen the center hex bolt securing the spindle assembly to the trimmer base from the top, using a 1/2" wrench.

Figure 1-11

NOTE

10. Remove the remaining five bolts which secure the spindle to the trimmer base using a 1/2" wrench.

Three of these bolts will also hold the belt keeper in position. See Figure 1-14.

Figure 1-13.

NOTE

Figure 1-12

Figure 1-14.

11. Remove the center bolt from the spindle.

12. Remove the spindle.

13. Follow instructions in the reverse order to assemble.

1-4

BELT REPLACEMENT

There are two different crankshaft pulleys that have been used in string trimmer production. Some string trimmers have engines equipped with heavy engine flywheels, while other engines have light engine flywheels. Because there is not a conventional blade to add rotating mass to the crankshaft, a flywheel was added to the crankshaft pulley used on the engines that have light engine flywheels. The pulley flywheel is large enough that the belt will not fit over it. The belt will fit over the pulley which does not have a flywheel attached to it. Because of this difference, there are two different procedures for replacing the drive belt. The first steps of both procedures are the same. See Figure 1-15.

NOTE

5. Remove the carriage bolts and the deflector. Remove the belt keeper from the tensioner pulley by loosening the lock nut with a 1/2" wrench.

6. Remove the belt keeper from the tensioner pulley by loosening the lock nut with a 1/2" wrench.

7. Remove the V-Belt from the Idler pulley.

8. Grasp the idler bracket assembly and pull inward until the belt can be removed from the spindle assembly.

NOTE

The torsion spring applies tension to the belt brake at rest, and must be moved away from the belt for removal.

9. Unhook the “Z” fitting (at the end of the engagement cable) from the idler bracket. See Figure 1-16.

Figure 1-15.

IMPORTANT:

been running.

1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug wire.

2. Drain the fuel tank.

3. Position the trimmer so the rear edge of the trimmer base is resting securely on a work bench, and pivot the handle down.

The handle should be securely weighted down, so the trimmer stands on end.

4. Remove the hex nuts from the carriage bolts that secure the deflector shield to the trimmer base using a 7/16" wrench.

Allow the engine to cool if it has

NOTE

Figure 1-16.

10. Loosen, but do not remove the three nuts that secure the belt keeper, and spindle assembly to the trimmer base using a 1/2" wrench.

TRIMMERS WITH PULLEY FLYWHEELS

NOTE

For trimmers equipped with pulley fly wheels, perform steps 1 through 10, then follow these steps;

1-5

1. Secure the pulley flywheel so that it will not spin during removal of the crankshaft bolt. See Figure 1-17.

Figure 1-17.

2. Remove the crankshaft bolt using a 5/8"

wrench.

3. Remove the bolt from the left side of the axle

using a 7/16" wrench.

TRIMMERS WITH STANDARD CRANkSHAFT PULLEYS

NOTE

For trimmers equipped with standard crank-

shaft pulleys, follow steps 1 through 10, then complete these steps;

1. Loosen, but do not remove the remaining nuts that fasten the spindle and belt tensioner bracket to the trimmer base using a 1/2" wrench. See Figure 1-19.

4. Remove the left wheel and slide the right wheel and axle out of the trimmer frame. See Figure 1-18.

Figure 1-18.

5. Roll the belt off of the pulley flywheel.

6. Slip the pulley flywheel off of the engine crank shaft.

Figure 1-19.

2. Loosen, but do not remove the center bolt that fastens the spindle to the trimmer frame using a 1/2" wrench.

3. Loosen, but do not remove the three bolts that hold the engine and engine pulley belt keeper to the trimmer frame, using a 1/2" wrench. See Figure 1-

20.

7. Remove the belt.

Follow the instructions in the reverse order to install the belt.

Figure 1-20.

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4. Roll the belt off of the crankshaft pulley, and slip the belt between the pulley and the rear axle. See Figure 1-21.

Figure 1-21.

5. Remove the belt from the spindle pulley.

6. Follow hte instructions in the reverse order to install the belt.

There is a stop welded to the axle where it passes through the right hand side of the trimmer base. This stop will not allow the axle to slide or rotate. See Figure 1-23.

Figure 1-23.

There is a removable spacer and wave washer between the left hand side wheel and the trimmer base. See Figure 1-24.

The belt has been updated from part number

754-0489 to part number 754-0625. The new belt is more resistant to stretching.

The control cable is secured to the axle, make

certain it is clear of rotating parts.

WHEELS AND AXLE

Each wheel can be removed by taking off a

single bolt and washer, using a 7/16" wrench. See Figure 1-22.

NOTE

Figure 1-24.

To remove the axle;

1. Remove the left hand side wheel bolt.

2. Slide the axle and wheel to the right, as described in the belt removal section.

OTHER FEATURES

Figure 1-22.

The control handle on the 22" model is equipped with a safety lock-out. See Figure 1-

25.

1-7

Figure 1-25.

Figure 1-26.

There is a debris screen over the cooling fan. Its presence is necessary to prevent the cooling fins from getting clogged. Customers should not operate the trimmer without the screen in place. See Figure 1-26.

A single wing nut holds the screen in place, and is easily removed for cleaning.

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CHORE PERFORMERS

2-1. EDGER.

the operation in both positions after making any adjustment to the rod. Secure lower clutch rod with flat washer and hairpin clip when adjustment is correct.

WARNING

When operating the edger, stop engine immediately and readjust the clutch rod if blade turns with blade clutch/depth lever in the disengaged position.

2-1.1 Checking the Clutch Rod Adjustment.

The clutch rod on your edger has been preadjusted at the factory. Before operating the edger, check the adjustment of the clutch rod as follows.

1. Disconnect the spark plug wire and move it away from the spark plug.

2. With the blade clutch/depth control lever in the disengaged position (notch nearest the operator’s position), carefully pull the recoil starter rope. The belt on the edger should not turn. If the belt (and blade) turns, remove the hairpin clip and flat washer, and remove the lower clutch rod from the pivot arm extension. See Figure 2-2. Turn the clutch rod one or two turns clockwise to shorten the rod. Insert lower clutch rod into pivot arm extension, and recheck the adjustment.

3. Check to be certain the blade clutch/depth control lever can be moved to the furthest notch forward. If not, remove the hairpin clip and flat washer, and turn the clutch rod one or two turns clockwise to shorten the rod. Insert lower clutch rod into pivot arm extension, and recheck the adjustment. Be certain to recheck

2-1.2 Belt Removal and Replacement.

1. Remove belt guard assembly at engine pulley by first removing hex nuts and lock washers. See Figure 2-3.

2-1

2. Remove belt guard at spindle assembly by removing two hex bolts, lock washers and hex nuts. See Figure 2-4.

3. Remove old belt and reassemble with new belt, part number 754-0142.

release adjustment lever on pivot bracket and rotate spindle housing. Place adjustment lever in notch desired. See Figure 2-5.

CAUTION

If wheels are not adjusted, the blade will hit the left front wheel causing the belt to slip.

2. When the blade is adjusted toward the horizontal position, the front wheels must also be adjusted. Remove two hairpin clips and slide spacer and wheel to the right. Reinsert hairpin clips.

NOTE

While the belt cover is removed, it is a good idea to apply a little grease to the pivot point on belt cover.

2-1.3 Blade Plane Adjustment.

1. The cutting blade can be adjusted to eight positions from vertical to horizontal. To adjust,

2-2

CHORE PERFORMERS

2-3

2-4

TILLERS

3-1. GENERAL.

For further information regarding this section, refer to Technical Service Video “Chain Case Teardown 410- 420 Tiller.”

3-1.1 Tillers are a precision built machine designed

for seed bed preparation, cultivating, furrowing and mulching. They are engineered to minimize the hardest work in the vegetable or flower garden, to till the soil for planting and cultivating and to perform many other useful labor saving tasks in the garden.

3-1.2 The operation of a tiller can be relatively easy if

the operator understands the basic concept of tilling procedure and the limitations of the equipment. Carefully note the following:

CAUTION

Be sure the area to be tilled is free of damagecausing debris. If you are working in soil of doubtful content, till at SLOW speed and be alert for any obstruction and be ready to release the clutch lever instantly.

1. The tiller is not intended to be used in small, confined spaces where hand spading is more practical. Tillers are designed to operate in open areas where there is a big job to do and where there is freedom of movement.

2. While the tiller can be used on sod covered ground, it is intended to work in open ground. On sod covered ground the tiller will want to buck and run and will require considerable physical effort by the operator.

3. Do not try to hold back on the tiller to restrict its movement. The basic idea is to let the depth bar restrain the forward movement of the tines and in so doing, cause the tines to dig rather than run. Thus, it is essential that you use the depth bar properly.

5. To begin operation of the tiller, proceed as follows:

a. With the depth bar set and staked into the

soil and with the clutch in the neutral position, start the engine.

b. Push down on the handles to drive the

depth bar firmly into the ground.

c. With the engine running at SLOW speed,

tilt the tiller back slightly to lift the tines off the ground, engage the clutch lever slowly to start the tines rotating and then slowly lower the tines into the ground.

6. The rotation speed of the tines is determined by the engine speed and thus is controlled by the throttle control. Tilling should be done at SLOW engine speed and increased only if the ground conditions permit.

7. Under some ground conditions the tiller may want to bog down. In this case raise and lower the handles. This motion helps the tines dig out and move forward and also releases some of the restraint of the depth bar.

8. Do not try tilling ground that is overly wet. Wait until the ground is dry enough to crumble rather freely.

9. Till using a criss-cross pattern. Till in one direction with parallel paths and then till across them at a 90 degree angle.

10. In making the first cut in untilled ground, the tiller will track a straight path rather easily. However, on subsequent passes, there will be a tendency for the tines to work toward the loose soil. Moving the handles side to side should help maintain a straight path. If you use a criss-cross pattern you need not till the parallel paths as close and therefore the straight path problem is practically eliminated.

4. To use the tiller, move it (with the depth bar up or in the released position) to the area to be tilled. Once in position, lower the depth bar or wheels to the approximate digging depth you want. If you are going to dig deep on untilled ground it is better to make several passes, digging deeper on each pass.

3-2. MODEL 031 FRONT TINE TILLER.

3-2.1 This tiller has been manufactured with 2 HP

and 3 HP engines. The 2 HP tiller is Model

020. The 3 HP is 030. Model 031 is basically the same as the 030 except for the handle panel and controls. The chain case is sealed at the factory and there is no need to check the

3-1

TILLERS

3-1. GENERAL.

For further information regarding this section, refer to Technical Service Video “Chain Case Teardown 410- 420 Tiller.”

3-1.1 Tillers are a precision built machine designed

3-1.2 The operation of a tiller can be relatively easy if

the operator understands the basic concept of tilling procedure and the limitations of the equipment. Carefully note the following:

CAUTION

5. To begin operation of the tiller, proceed as follows:

a. With the depth bar set and staked into the

soil and with the clutch in the neutral position, start the engine.

b. Push down on the handles to drive the

depth bar firmly into the ground.

c. With the engine running at SLOW speed,

tilt the tiller back slightly to lift the tines off the ground, engage the clutch lever slowly to start the tines rotating and then slowly lower the tines into the ground.

8. Do not try tilling ground that is overly wet. Wait until the ground is dry enough to crumble rather freely.

9. Till using a criss-cross pattern. Till in one direction with parallel paths and then till across them at a 90 degree angle.

3-2. MODEL 031 FRONT TINE TILLER.

3-2.1 This tiller has been manufactured with 2 HP

and 3 HP engines. The 2 HP tiller is Model

020. The 3 HP is 030. Model 031 is basically the same as the 030 except for the handle panel and controls. The chain case is sealed at the factory and there is no need to check the

3-1

grease level. If the case is disassembled the grease can be replaced. See Figure 3-1. For a summary of specifications for Model 031, see Table 3-1.

2. With clutch grip released (neutral position), pull starter cord several times. The tines should not turn. If they do, adjust the hex nuts at the clutch cable bracket. Check again for correct adjustment.

3-2.2 Clutch Adjustment.

Adjust clutch as follows:

3-2.3 Belt System.

1. The clutch idler disengages the belt when you release the clutch control lever. This will disengage the tines and allow the tiller to be in a neutral position. See Figure 3-2.

2. If the engine pulley is removed note how it is assembled. The hub is to the inside. Check the V-belt alignment between the engine pulley and chain case pulley.

Note the following:

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire from spark plug and ground it against engine block (secure in V slot) before making any adjustments or performing maintenance.

NOTE

Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.

1. Hold the clutch grip so that the grip is down against the handle. Adjust clutch control cable so that the slack is taken out of the control wire. Tighten two hex nuts at cable support bracket. Control wire should now be straight.

3-2.4 Belt Removal and Replacement.

1. Remove belt cover assembly by removing one hex nut and lock washer, one self-tapping screw, one hex bolt, flat washer and hex nut and one hex bolt and external lock washer.

2. Lift belt cover assembly off tiller. Be careful not to bend or kink clutch cable.

3. Remove belt and position new belt on engine pulley and chain case pulley. See Figure 3-2.

4. Upon reassembly of belt cover, place belt over top of idler pulley and between engine pulley and weld pin on belt cover assembly.

5. Fasten belt cover assembly in position. Secure with the hardware removed in step 1.

3-2

When tilling, leave approximately 8 inches of untilled soil between the first and second tilling paths, then make the third path between the first and second as shown. In some soils, the desired depth is obtained the first time over the garden. In other soils, the desired depth is obtained by going over the garden two or three times. In the latter case, the depth stake should be lowered before each succeeding pass over the garden. Passes should be made across the length and width of the garden alternately. Rocks which are turned up should be removed from the garden area. See Figure 3-

3-2A.1 CONTROLLING SPEED AND TILLING

DEPTH:

1. Depth Stake Adjustment: The depth stake acts as a brake for the tiller and controls the depth and speed at which the machine will operate. Remove the clevis pin and hairpin clip to raise or lower depth stake. See Figure 3-4.

By increasing the depth of the depth stake, the forward speed of the machine is reduced, and the working depth is increased. When the depth stake is raised, the working depth of the machine is reduced and the forward speed is increased.

2. Handle Pressure: Further control of tilling depth and travel speed can be obtained by variation of pressure on the handles. A downward pressure on the handles will reduce the working depth and increase the forward speed. An upward pressure on the handles will increase the working depth and reduce the forward speed. The type of soil and working conditions will determine the actual setting of the depth stake and the handle pressure required.

3. Throttle Control: The throttle control lever adjusts the engine speed and stops the engine. With the throttle control pushed completely to the right, the carburetor is in START or FAST position. Pulling the throttle back reduces the engine speed to IDLE. Pull the throttle completely back to stop the engine.

Use maximum engine speed for deep tilling. Move the throttle control to IDLE when transporting the tiller.

Model Series 035

3-2A.2 CULTIVATING

3-3

For cultivating, a two to three inch depth is desirable. The throttle should be set to control forward movement to a slow walking speed.

With the outer tines installed, the working width of the machine is 18 inches. For cultivation, this may be reduced to 14 inches by removing the outer tines. Use a 3/8" wrench to remove the two self-tapping screws on the outside of the tines. Replace the first tine removed as shown. See Figure 3-6.

When laying out plant rows, be sure to allow enough width to permit cultivation between the rows. In growing corn or similar crops, checkrow planting will permit cross cultivation and practically eliminate hand hoeing. See Figure 3-9.

The minimum tilling width is 10 inches. Remove both sets of outer tines by removing the two self-tapping screws on the outside of the tines. See Figure 3-8.

3-4

Chain Case

and sealed at the factory. It requires no checking unless the chain case is disassembled. To fill with grease, lay the right half of the chain case on its side. Add 10 ounces of Benalene #372-0 grease and assemble the left half to the right half.

—The chain case is pre-lubricated

3-5

3-6

3-2.5 Disassembly of Tine Chain Case.

as follows:

1. Remove chain case from tiller.

2. Remove self-tapping screws, hex bolts, lock washers and hex nuts from the outer edge of chain case.

3. Remove hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut from the center of chain case.

Proceed

6. Separate halves of the chain case housing. Be careful not to damage the chain case gasket. Replace if necessary.

NOTE

The drive system has 2 chain reduction steps. Each step reduces the speed and increases the torque or power down to the axle shaft. The reduction is done with the use of a #35 chain to a #420 chain.

7. Push input shaft inward slightly. Lift up on hub sprocket assembly and remove the #35 chain from the sprocket. See Figure 3-13.

4. Remove self-tapping screws from bearing housing. See Figure 3-12.

Figure 3-12.

5. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

NOTE

This will allow slack in the other chain which can be removed by lifting off the sprockets. The hub sprocket assemblies will also be removed from the housing during this procedure.

8. To disassemble the hub sprocket assembly, slide the spacer out of the bearing. On an arbor press place a spacer or similar tool on the OD of the bearing and press bearing out of hub sprocket assembly. See Figure 3-14.

3-7

CAUTION

Both bearings must be pressed from the outside towards the center of housing. Pressure should be exerted on the outer race or damage will result causing premature failure.

11. Inspection of Parts.

a. Inspect chains for breakage or bent clips

(master links).

b. Inspect sprockets and shafts for excessive

wear or breakage.

c. Inspect bearings on input and output

shafts for excessive wear.

9. To remove the tine shaft assembly simply pull the complete assembly out of the housing. See Figure 3-15.

NOTE

The chain case is lubricated with 10 ounces of plastilube #0 grease to keep the bearings and chains operating in a constant lubrication bath.

CAUTION

When reassembling, make certain the step spacer and washer are positioned properly or damage to the shaft assembly and/or bearings will result.

10. Remove bearings from the housing using an arbor press. See Figure 3-16.

d. Inspect spacers and washers for exces-

sive wear.

3-2.6 Chain Case Seal and Bearing Replacement.

Proceed as follows:

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground against engine.

1. On a bench or suitable surface, block up the chain case so that the tines clear the bench.

2. Remove the hardware which secures the tines to the shaft and remove from unit.

3-8

NOTE

The dust caps have a molded lip on the ID which seats into a groove in the bearing hub allowing for a tight fit.

3. Carefully pry off dust caps from housing assembly.

5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller housing with self-tapping screws removed in step 3.

6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard removed in step 2.

3-3. Model 310/700 Tiller.

4. Pry old seal out of housing assembly and slide off shaft.

5. Remove any rust or foreign material from shaft and thoroughly clean to avoid damage or contamination to seal or bearing.

6. Apply a generous amount of oil to shaft and new seal and carefully slide seal into position. Make certain the new seal is completely seated against the shaft bearing.

7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are fully seated on the bearing hub.

8. Reattach the tines with the hardware removed in step 3.

3-2.7 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

3-3.1 This tiller has forward speed only. There is no

reverse. The chain case has a two step reduction. The V-belt goes from a small engine pulley to a large input on the chain case. The chain case is sealed at the factory and there is no need to check or change the lubricant unless the chain case has been disassembled for repair. See Figure 3-17. For a summary of specifications for Model 310/700, see Table 3-

1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from input shaft.

2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure bearing housing to tiller housing.

3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

NOTE

Pressure should be applied to the outer race of the bearing and the housing should be secured properly. Any force exerted on the inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.

4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with a new bearing.

3-3.2 The most common mistake made on any tiller

is assembling the tines backwards. THE SHARP EDGE OF THE TINES MUST ENTER THE SOIL FIRST.

3-9

NOTE

The dust caps have a molded lip on the ID which seats into a groove in the bearing hub allowing for a tight fit.

3. Carefully pry off dust caps from housing assembly.

5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller housing with self-tapping screws removed in step 3.

6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard removed in step 2.

3-3. Model 310/700 Tiller.

4. Pry old seal out of housing assembly and slide off shaft.

5. Remove any rust or foreign material from shaft and thoroughly clean to avoid damage or contamination to seal or bearing.

6. Apply a generous amount of oil to shaft and new seal and carefully slide seal into position. Make certain the new seal is completely seated against the shaft bearing.

7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are fully seated on the bearing hub.

8. Reattach the tines with the hardware removed in step 3.

3-2.7 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

3-3.1 This tiller has forward speed only. There is no

1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from input shaft.

2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure bearing housing to tiller housing.

3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

NOTE

Pressure should be applied to the outer race of the bearing and the housing should be secured properly. Any force exerted on the inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.

4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with a new bearing.

3-3.2 The most common mistake made on any tiller

is assembling the tines backwards. THE SHARP EDGE OF THE TINES MUST ENTER THE SOIL FIRST.

3-9

3-3.3 Clutch Adjustment.

2. After removing three screws, lift off belt cover.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine before performing any adjustments, repairs or maintenance.

NOTE

Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.

1. With clutch lever released (in up position), adjust the bottom nut at the cable bracket so there is 1/2 inch of slack in the control wire. See Figure 3-18. Tighten upper nut against bracket. Squeeze clutch lever against handle. The control wire should now be straight.

3. Slip belt off chain case pulley first then off idler pulley. Remove belt from engine pulley. See Figure 3-20.

4. To reassemble new belt, first place belt over engine pulley. Be sure belt is inside two pins at engine pulley.

5. Belt must be over top of idler pulley. Slip end of belt over chain case pulley.

2. Secure end of spark plug wire in the V slot on the engine. With clutch grip released (neutral position), pull starter cord several times. The tines should not turn. If they do, adjust hex nuts at clutch cable bracket. Check again for correct adjustment.

3-3.4 Belt Removal and Replacement.

NOTE

Your tiller has been engineered with a belt made of special material (Kevlar Tensile). It should not be replaced with an off-the-shelf belt.

1. Remove the belt cover by removing three selftapping screws. A 3/8 inch wrench is required. See Figure 3-19.

6. Reassemble belt cover.

3-3.5 Disassembly of Tine Chain Case.

1. Remove chain case from tiller.

3-10

2. Remove self-tapping screws, hex bolts, lock washers and hex nuts from the outer edge of chain case.

3. Remove hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut from the center of chain case.

4. Remove self-tapping screws from bearing housing. See Figure 3-21.

5. Slide bearing housing and bearing off the input shaft.

NOTE

This will allow slack in the other chain which can be removed by lifting off the sprockets. The hub sprocket assemblies will also be removed from the housing during this procedure.

8. To disassemble hub sprocket assembly, slide spacer out of bearing. On an arbor press remove bearing by placing a spacer or similar tool on the OD of bearing and press out. See Figure 3-24.

6. Separate the halves of the chain case housing. Be careful not to damage chain case gasket. Replace if necessary.

NOTE

The drive system has 2 chain reduction steps. Each step reduces the speed and increases the torque or power down to the axle shaft. The reduction is done with the use of a #35 chain to a #50 chain. See Figure 3-22.

7. Push input shaft inward slightly. Lift up on hub sprocket assembly and remove #35 chain from the sprocket. See Figure 3-23.

9. To remove tine shaft assembly simply pull the complete assembly out of the housing. See Figure 3-25.

3-11

CAUTION

When reassembling, make certain the step spacers and washers are positioned properly or damage to the shaft assembly and/or bearings will result. (Cupped side faces sprocket.)

NOTE

The chain case is lubricated with 12 ounces of plastilube #0 grease to keep the bearings and chains operating in a constant lubrication bath.

10. Remove bearings from housing using an arbor press. See Figure 3-26.

NOTE

Both bearings must be pressed from the outside towards the center of housing as shown. Pressure should be exerted on the outer race or damage will result causing premature failure.

3-3.6 Chain Case Seal and Bearing Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. On a bench or suitable surface, block up chain case so that tines/wheels clear the bench.

2. Remove the hardware which secures the tines to shaft and remove from unit.

3. Carefully pry off dust caps from housing assembly.

NOTE

The dust caps have a molded lip on the ID which seats into a groove in the bearing hub allowing for a tight fit.

4. Pry old seals out of housing assembly and slide off shaft.

5. Remove any rust or foreign material from shaft and thoroughly clean to avoid damage or contamination to seal.

6. Apply a generous amount of oil to shaft and new seal and carefully slide seal into position. Make certain new seal is completely seated against shaft bearing.

3-12

7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are fully seated on the bearing hub.

8. Reattach tines/wheels with the hardware removed in step 3.

3-3.7 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from input shaft.

2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure bearing housing to tiller housing.

3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with a new bearing.

CAUTION

Pressure should be applied to the outer race of the bearings and the housing should be secured properly. Any force exerted on the inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.

5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller housing with self-tapping screws removed in step 3.

3-4.1 Forward Drive Belt Removal and Replace-

ment.

1. Remove belt guard by removing four hex selftapping screws.

2. Press down on left side of tine shield and slip off belt guard.

3. Remove forward drive belt from beneath belt retainer.

4. Roll belt off transmission pulley.

5. Remove belt from around engine pulley and lift it off idler pulley. See Figure 3-28.

6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard removed in step 2.

3-4. MODEL 381 TILLER. See Figure 3-27 and

Table 3-3.

NOTE

Make certain the forward drive belt is assembled with the wide side of the belt away from transmission and engine pulleys.

3-13

8. Reattach tines/wheels with the hardware removed in step 3.

3-3.7 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from input shaft.

2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure bearing housing to tiller housing.

3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with a new bearing.

CAUTION

Pressure should be applied to the outer race of the bearings and the housing should be secured properly. Any force exerted on the inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.

5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller housing with self-tapping screws removed in step 3.

3-4.1 Forward Drive Belt Removal and Replace-

ment.

1. Remove belt guard by removing four hex selftapping screws.

2. Press down on left side of tine shield and slip off belt guard.

3. Remove forward drive belt from beneath belt retainer.

4. Roll belt off transmission pulley.

5. Remove belt from around engine pulley and lift it off idler pulley. See Figure 3-28.

6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard removed in step 2.

3-4. MODEL 381 TILLER. See Figure 3-27 and

Table 3-3.

NOTE

Make certain the forward drive belt is assembled with the wide side of the belt away from transmission and engine pulleys.

3-13

6. Reassemble the new belt following instructions in reverse order.

5. Reassemble new belt following instructions in reverse order.

3-4.2 Reverse Drive Belt Removal and Replace-

ment.

1. To remove reverse drive belt, first remove forward drive belt as instructed in the previous paragraph.

2. Remove reverse drive belt from beneath belt retainer.

3. Roll belt off transmission pulley. Remove it from beneath forward idler bracket. See Figure 3-29.

3-4.3 Disassembly of Tine Chain Case.

Disassemble as follows:

1. Remove chain case from tiller.

2. Remove self-tapping screws, hex bolts, lock washers and hex nuts from the outer edge of chain case.

3. Remove hex bolt, lock washers, and hex nut from center of the chain case. See Figure 3-31.

4. Remove hex nut which secures reverse idler pulley to idler bracket. Slide idler pulley out and remove belt. See Figure 3-30.

NOTE

Make certain reverse drive belt is assembled with the wide side of the belt against transmission and engine pulleys.

4. Remove self-tapping screws from bearing housing. See Figure 3-32.

5. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

6. Separate the halves of chain case housing. Be careful not to damage chain case gasket. Replace if necessary. See Figure 3-33.

3-14

NOTE

The chain case is lubricated with 16 ounces of plastilube #0 grease to keep the bearings and chains operating in a constant lubrication bath.

The drive system has 3 chain reduction steps. Each step reduces the speed and increases the torque or power down to the axle shaft. The reduction is done with the use of the #41 chain to a #420 chain to a #50 chain.

7. Remove the middle #420 chain by lifting off one end from sprocket bearing sleeve assembly and the other end from sprocket shaft. See Figure 3-34.

9. To disassemble hub sprocket assemblies, slide spacer out of bearing. On an arbor press remove bearing by placing a spacer or similar tool on the OD of bearing and press out. See Figure 3-36.

8. Remove the second #50 chain from tine shaft. The sprocket bearing sleeve assembly can also be removed. See Figure 3-35.

3-15

10. To remove tine shaft assembly simply pull complete assembly out of housing. See Figure 3-37.

CAUTION

When reassembling, make certain the step spacer and washer are positioned properly or damage to the shaft assembly and/or bearings will result. (Cupped side faces sprocket.)

11. Remove keyed input shaft from sprocket sleeve assembly as shown. See Figure 3-38.

3-4.4 Chain Case Seal and Bearing

Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. On a bench or suitable surface, block up chain case so that the tines clear the bench.

2. Remove the hardware which secures tines to shaft and remove from the unit.

NOTE

12. Remove the third #420 chain from sprocket and sprocket shaft. The sprocket sleeve assembly can also be removed.

CAUTION

Both bearings must be pressed from the outside towards the center of housing. Pressure should be exerted on the outer race or damage will result causing premature failure.

13. Remove bearings from housing using an arbor press. See Figure 3-39.

The dust caps have a molded lip on the ID which seats into a groove in the bearing hub allowing for a tight fit.

3. Carefully pry off dust caps from housing assembly.

4. Pry old seals out of housing assembly and slide off shaft.

5. Remove any rust or foreign material from shaft and thoroughly clean to avoid damage or contamination to seal or bearing.

6. Apply a generous amount of oil to shaft and new seal and carefully slide seal into position.

3-16

Make certain new seal is completely seated against shaft bearing.

7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are fully seated on bearing hub.

8. Reattach tines with the hardware removed in step 3.

5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller housing with self-tapping screws removed in step 3.

6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard removed in step 2.

3-5. Tiller Models 340 And 390.

3-4.5 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from input shaft.

2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure bearing housing to tiller housing.

3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

NOTE

Pressure should be applied to the outer race of the bearing and the housing should be secured properly. Any force exerted on the inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.

4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with a new bearing.

3-5.1 The design of these tillers is new in concept

due to the fact that the transmissions are designed and manufactured for replacement (complete only) and are not as repairable component. They are lubricated and sealed at the factory. No further lubrication is required and should, if not abused, provide years of problem free service.

3-5.2 Tiller Model 340 is the same as Model 390

except that the 390 has a reverse control. It has an additional belt, reverse assembly control cable and pulleys. See Figures 3-30, 3-31, 3-32 and Table 3-4.

CAUTION

This tiller has been engineered with a belt made of special material (Kevlar Tensile) for longer life and better performance. It should not be replaced with an off-the-shelf belt. If belt replacement is required, order belt or belts by part number from your nearest authorized service dealer. Forward Drive Belt—Part No. 7540428, Reverse Drive Belt (Model 390 only)— Part No. 754-0429.

3-17

Make certain new seal is completely seated against shaft bearing.

7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are fully seated on bearing hub.

8. Reattach tines with the hardware removed in step 3.

5. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller housing with self-tapping screws removed in step 3.

6. Reassemble pulleys, belt and belt guard removed in step 2.

3-5. Tiller Models 340 And 390.

3-4.5 Input Shaft Bearing Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. To replace bearing on tine chain case assembly, remove belt guard, belts and pulleys from input shaft.

2. Remove self-tapping screws which secure bearing housing to tiller housing.

3. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

NOTE

Pressure should be applied to the outer race of the bearing and the housing should be secured properly. Any force exerted on the inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.

4. Press bearing out of housing and replace with a new bearing.

3-5.1 The design of these tillers is new in concept

3-5.2 Tiller Model 340 is the same as Model 390

except that the 390 has a reverse control. It has an additional belt, reverse assembly control cable and pulleys. See Figures 3-30, 3-31, 3-32 and Table 3-4.

CAUTION

3-17

3-18

3-19

DRIVE SYSTEM THE 390 SERIES TILLER IS THE SAME AS THE 340 EXCEPT THAT IT HAS REVERSE DIRECTION ALSO. THE REVERSE IS 104 RPM. THE TRANSMISSION ON THE 340/390 IS NOT A REPAIRABLE COMPONENT BUT IS EASILY REMOVED AND REPLACED SHOULD SERVICING BE REQUIRED.

3-20

3-5.3 Tine Width Adjustment.

1. The tilling width before adjustment is 22 inches. See Figure 3-43.

NOTE

The forward clutch cable is the cable which is attached closer to the rear of the tiller. If the spring has come loose, reattach.

2. The tilling width can be increased to 24 inches by removing the clevis pins and hairpin clips. Sliding the outer tines out 1-inch and securing in this position with clevis pins and hairpin clips. See Figure 3-44.

3. For cultivation, reduce the tine width to 13 inches by removing the outer tines completely. See Figure 3-45.

3-5.4 Forward Clutch Control Cable Attachment.

Attach the end of the forward cable to bracket underneath handle assembly as follows:

1. Loosen hex nut on threaded rod near the end of cable, and move it up the rod as far as it will go.

2. Unthread rod from the rest of the cable. Hook Z end of rod into bracket underneath handle assembly.

CAUTION

Do not overtighten control cable. Too much tension may cause it to break when engaged.

3. Thread rod back into cable until cable is straight. Do not tighten it enough to put any tension on spring.

4. Thread hex nut down against the end of cable to lock rod in this position.

3-21

3-5.5 Reverse Clutch Control Cable Attachment

(Model 390 only).

loose, attach the end of the reverse cable to the reverse drive lever above the handle assembly in the same manner as you attached the forward cable.

The reverse clutch cable is the cable which is attached closer to the front of the tiller.

If the spring has come

NOTE

3-5.6 Clutch Adjustment.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire from spark plug to prevent accidental starting. Secure the end of spark plug wire in V slot on the engine.

1. Engage and release the forward drive clutch lever, then the reverse drive clutch lever (model 390 only). If an excessive noise is heard when releasing either drive clutch lever, the cable may be too loose. Adjust either the forward or reverse clutch cable by loosening the hex nut, threading the rod into the cable one or two turns, then tightening the nut.

2. With the clutch(es) in neutral (levers released), pull the starter rope several times. The tines should not turn. If they turn forward, loosen hex nut on forward drive cable (beneath the handle assembly). Unthread rod from cable several turns. Tighten hex nut and check again for correct adjustment. If the tines turn in reverse, adjust the reverse cable (above the handle panel) in the same manner. See Figure 3-46.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. Remove two self-tapping screws and flat washers from the front of belt cover. Remove hex stop nut and flat washer from side of belt cover. Remove belt cover. See Figure 3-47.

3-5.7 Reverse Drive Belt Removal and Replace-

ment (Model 390 only).

engineered with belts made of special material (Kevlar Tensile). They should not be replaced with an off-the-shelf belt. If belt replacement is required, order belt or belts by part number. Remove and replace reverse drive belt as follows:

This tiller has been

3-22

2. Lift belt off transmission pulley and engine pulley.

3. Remove hex nut which secures reverse idler pulley to idler bracket. Slide idler pulley out and remove belt. See Figure 3-48.

out from between belt keepers. Remove belt. See Figure 3-49.

4. Reassemble new belt following instructions in reverse order. Make certain reverse drive belt is assembled with the wide side of belt against transmission and engine pulleys. Be certain to adjust clutch control as instructed in the final clutch adjustment section.

3-5.8 Forward Drive Belt Removal and

Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. Remove belt cover as instructed in step 1 of previous subsection.

2. To remove forward drive belt on 390 models, first remove reverse drive belt as instructed previously.

3. Remove belt from idler pulley and from around chain case pulley.

5. Install new belt following instructions in reverse order. Make certain forward drive belt is assembled with the wide side of belt away from transmission and engine pulleys. Be certain to adjust clutch control as instructed in the final clutch adjustment section.

NOTE

Upon reassembly, make certain the belt is routed in between belt keepers at engine pulley and over idler pulley.

3-6. TILLER MODELS 402 AND 405. See Figure

3-50 and Table 3-5.

4. Using a 9/16 inch wrench, remove hex bolt which secures engine pulley. Slide pulley half

3-23

3-24

1. Remove belt cover by removing four self-tapping screws. See Figure 3-51.

3-6.1 Belt Tension Adjustment for Drive and Tine

Clutches.

sion may be required due to normal stretch and wear on the belt. Adjustment is needed if the tines seem to hesitate while tilling, but the engine maintains the same speed. Adjust as follows:

1. Loosen hex nuts at cable bracket on handle.

Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.

2. With clutch lever released, adjust bottom nut so that there is only a slight amount of slack in control wire.

3. Tighten upper nut against bracket.

3-6.2 Removal and Replacement of Long Tine

Belt.

Periodic adjustment of the belt ten-

NOTE

2. Lift belt from under flat idler pulley.

3. Remove wire belt guard. See Figure 3-52.

4. Loosen, but do not remove, hex bolts on rear engine pulley. See Figure 3-53.

Your tiller has been engineered with belts made of special material (Kevlar Tensile) for longer life and better performance. They should not be replaced with an off-the-shelf belt.

3-25

1. Remove belt cover by removing four self-tapping screws. See Figure 3-51.

3-6.1 Belt Tension Adjustment for Drive and Tine

Clutches.

sion may be required due to normal stretch and wear on the belt. Adjustment is needed if the tines seem to hesitate while tilling, but the engine maintains the same speed. Adjust as follows:

1. Loosen hex nuts at cable bracket on handle.

Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.

2. With clutch lever released, adjust bottom nut so that there is only a slight amount of slack in control wire.

3. Tighten upper nut against bracket.

3-6.2 Removal and Replacement of Long Tine

Belt.

Periodic adjustment of the belt ten-

NOTE

2. Lift belt from under flat idler pulley.

3. Remove wire belt guard. See Figure 3-52.

4. Loosen, but do not remove, hex bolts on rear engine pulley. See Figure 3-53.

Your tiller has been engineered with belts made of special material (Kevlar Tensile) for longer life and better performance. They should not be replaced with an off-the-shelf belt.

3-25

5. Slip engine pulley out until belt can be removed.

6. Install new belt.

3-6.3 Removal and Replacement of Short Drive

Belt.

1. Remove tine belt as instructed in previous paragraph.

2. Remove hex bolt, lock washer and flat washer from rear engine pulley. Slip rear engine pulley off engine.

3. Loosen two set screws on front engine pulley. See Figure 3-54.

NOTE

Do not lose square key on engine shaft.

4. Remove lock nut on V-idler pulley.

5. Slide front engine pulley and V-idler pulley out. See Figure 3-55.

6. Remove belt and install new belt. Be sure belt is routed around guide pins. See Figure 3-56.

NOTE

Belt must be between V-idler pulley and idler bracket.

3-26

NOTE

Upon reassembly, refer to your owners guide for correct assembly of wire belt guard for your model tiller.

NOTE

If the V-idler or flat idler pulleys are removed for any reason, be sure to install with hub side against idler bracket. See Figure 3-57.

The drive system has three chain reduction steps. Each step reduces the speed and increases the torque or power down to the axle shaft. The reduction is done with the use of a #35 chain to a #420 chain and again to another #420 chain.

NOTE

3-6.4 Disassembly of Wheel Chain Case.

semble as follows:

1. Remove chain case from tiller.

2. Remove self-tapping screws, two hex bolts, lock washers and nuts from the outer edge of the chain case.

3. Remove one hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut from the center of chain case.

4. Remove remaining hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut from the center of chain case.

5. Remove self-tapping screws from bearing housing.

6. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

7. Separate halves of the chain case housing. Be careful not to damage chain case gasket. Replace if necessary. See Figure 3-58.

Disas-

The chain case is lubricated with 10 ounces of plastilube #0 grease to keep the bearings and chains operating in a constant lubrication bath.

8. Push input shaft inward slightly. Lift up on the hub sprocket assembly and remove #35 chain from sprocket. This will allow slack in the other chains which can be removed by lifting off the sprockets.

The hub sprocket assemblies can also be removed from the housing during this procedure. See Figure 3-59.

9. To disassemble hub sprocket assemblies slide spacer out of bearing. On an arbor press remove bearing by placing a spacer or similar tool on the OD of bearing and press out. See Figure 3-60.

3-27

CAUTION

When reassembling, make certain the step spacer and washers are positioned properly or damage to the shaft assembly and/or bearings will result. (Cupped side faces sprocket.)

11. Remove bearings from housing using an arbor press as shown. See Figure 3-62.

10. To remove the wheel shaft assembly simply pull the complete assembly out of the housing. See Figure 3-61.

NOTE

Both bearings, one plastic and one bronze, must be pressed from the outside towards the center of the housing.

3-28

3-6.5 Disassembly of Tine Chain Case.

ble as follows:

1. Remove chain case from tiller.

2. Remove self-tapping screws, hex bolts, lock washers and hex nuts from the outer edge of chain case.

3. Remove hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut from the center of chain case.

4. Remove self-tapping screws from bearing housing. See Figure 3-63.

Disassem-

NOTE

The chain case is lubricated with 12 ounces of plastilube #0 grease to keep the bearings and chains operating in a constant lubrication bath.

7. Push input shaft inward slightly. Lift up on hub sprocket assembly and remove #35 chain from sprocket. This will allow slack in the other chain which can be removed by lifting off the sprockets. The hub sprocket assemblies will also be removed from the housing during this procedure. See Figure 3-65.

5. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

6. Separate the halves of chain case housing to obtain access to reduction chains. Be careful not to damage chain case gasket. Replace if necessary. See Figure 3-64.

NOTE

8. To disassemble hub sprocket assembly, slide spacer out of bearing. On an arbor press remove bearing by placing a spacer or similar tool on the OD of bearing and press out. See Figure 3-66.

The drive system has 2 chain reduction steps. Each step reduces the speed and increases the torque or power down to the axle shaft. The reduction is done with the use of a #35 chain to a #50 chain.

3-29

9. To remove tine shaft assembly simply pull complete assembly out of housing. See Figure 3-67.

CAUTION

Both bearings must be pressed from the outside towards the center of housing as shown. Pressure should be exerted on the outer race or damage will result causing premature failure.

3-6.6 Dust Cap Removal and Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. On a bench or suitable surface, block up chain case so that tines/wheels clear the bench.

2. Remove the hardware which secures tines/ wheels to shaft and remove from unit.

NOTE

CAUTION

When reassembling, make certain step spacers and washers are positioned properly or damage to the shaft assembly and/or bearings will result. (Cupped side faces sprocket.)

10. Remove bearings from housing using an arbor press as shown. See Figure 3-68.

The dust caps have a molded lip on the ID which seats into a groove in the bearing hub allowing for a tight fit.

3. Carefully pry off dust caps from housing assembly.

4. Pry old dust caps out of housing assembly and slide off shaft.

5. Remove any rust or foreign material from shaft and thoroughly clean to avoid damage or contamination to seal or bearing.

6. Apply a generous amount of oil to shaft and new seal and carefully slide seal into position. Make certain new seal is completely seated against shaft bearing.

7. Reassemble dust caps making certain they are fully seated on bearing hub.

8. Reattach tines/wheels with the hardware removed in step 3.

NOTE

To replace the bearing on tine chain case assembly, the belt guard, pulleys and side plate must be removed.

3-6.7 Input Shaft Bearing Removal and Replace-

ment.

3-30

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. Remove self-tapping screws which secure bearing housing to tiller housing.

2. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

CAUTION

Pressure should be applied to the outer race of bearing and the housing should be secured properly. Any force exerted on the inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.

3. Press bearing out of housing and replace with a new bearing.

4. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller housing with self-tapping screws removed in step 2.

1. Loosen hex nut at cable bracket on handle. See Figure 3-70

CAUTION

Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.

5. Replace belt guard, pulleys and side plate if applicable.

3-7. TILLER MODELS 403 AND 406 WITH

REVERSE DRIVE. See Figure 3-69.

3-7.1 This is a 4 HP reverse direction tine unit. This

section also covers the model 406 5 HP unit. Product description is the same as the 402 and 405 units with the exception that the 403 and 406 units have reverse direction drive.

2. With the clutch lever released, adjust the bottom nut so that there is only a slight amount of slack in the control wire.

3. Tighten upper nut against bracket.

3-7.3 Belt Removal and Replacement.

1. Remove belt cover by removing four self-tapping screws. See Figure 3-71.

3-7.2 Belt Tension Adjustment for Drive and Tine

Clutches. Periodic adjustment of belt tension

may be required due to normal stretch and wear on belt. Adjustment is needed if tines seem to hesitate while tilling, but the engine maintains the same speed. Adjust as follows:

2. To remove tine belt, lift up on idler pulley and slip belt off tine chain case pulley. Remove belt from the two-step engine pulley. See Figure 3-

72.

3-31

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. Remove self-tapping screws which secure bearing housing to tiller housing.

2. Slide bearing housing and bearing off input shaft.

CAUTION

Pressure should be applied to the outer race of bearing and the housing should be secured properly. Any force exerted on the inner race will result in bearing damage or premature failure.

3. Press bearing out of housing and replace with a new bearing.

4. Reattach bearing and bearing housing to tiller housing with self-tapping screws removed in step 2.

1. Loosen hex nut at cable bracket on handle. See Figure 3-70

CAUTION

Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.

5. Replace belt guard, pulleys and side plate if applicable.

3-7. TILLER MODELS 403 AND 406 WITH

REVERSE DRIVE. See Figure 3-69.

3-7.1 This is a 4 HP reverse direction tine unit. This

section also covers the model 406 5 HP unit. Product description is the same as the 402 and 405 units with the exception that the 403 and 406 units have reverse direction drive.

2. With the clutch lever released, adjust the bottom nut so that there is only a slight amount of slack in the control wire.

3. Tighten upper nut against bracket.

3-7.3 Belt Removal and Replacement.

1. Remove belt cover by removing four self-tapping screws. See Figure 3-71.

3-7.2 Belt Tension Adjustment for Drive and Tine

Clutches. Periodic adjustment of belt tension

may be required due to normal stretch and wear on belt. Adjustment is needed if tines seem to hesitate while tilling, but the engine maintains the same speed. Adjust as follows:

2. To remove tine belt, lift up on idler pulley and slip belt off tine chain case pulley. Remove belt from the two-step engine pulley. See Figure 3-

72.

3-31

3. To remove reverse drive belt, lift up on small idler pulley. Slip belt off outside sheave of wheel chain case pulley. Remove belt from two-step engine pulley. See Figure 3-73.

6. Lift forward drive belt off forward engine pulley and remove. See Figure 3-75.

NOTE

4. Loosen (do not remove) hex nut at the top of wire belt keeper. See Figure 3-74.

5. Pull bottom of wire belt keeper out and then upward, pivoting it away from the forward engine pulley.

When reassembling belts, be certain belts are routed around all belt keeper pins.

7. Reassemble new belts, following instructions in reverse order. See Figure 3-76.

3-32

3-7.4 Disassembly of Wheel Chain Case. Refer to

paragraph 3-6.4.

NOTE

If V-idler or flat idler pulleys are removed for any reason, be sure to install with hub side against idler bracket. See Figure 3-77.

3-7.5 Disassembly of Tine Chain Case. Refer to

paragraph 3-6.5.

3-7.6 Dust Cap Removal and Replacement. Refer

to paragraph 3-6.6.

3-33

3-7.7 Input Shaft Bearing Removal and Replace-

ment. Refer to paragraph 3-6.7.

3-8. TILLER MODELS 410 AND 420 (Figure 3-

78).

3-34

3-8.1 Belt Removal and Replacement.

NOTE

CAUTION

Do not use an off-the-shelf belt.

Your tiller has been engineered with a belt made of special material (Kevlar Tensile) for longer life and better performance. It should not be replaced with an off-the-shelf belt.

If belt replacement is required, order belt or belts by part number from your nearest authorized dealer. Part No. 754-0438—V Belt

1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug wire against the engine.

2. Remove the belt cover from the left side of the tiller as follows.

a. Remove two torx head screws from the top

of belt cover.

b. Remove two hex cap nuts and flat washers

from front side of the belt cover. Remove hex nut and flat washer at the back of the cover.

Upon reassembly, make certain the belt is routed over the idler pulley and inside of belt keepers at engine pulley. See Figure 3-79.

3-8.2 Attaching the Clutch Cable.

1. Route the clutch cable through the cable clip underneath the handle. Remove one hex nut from the threaded casing on the end of the cable. See Figure 3-80.

3. Remove the belt keeper assembly located behind the engine pulley by removing two hex bolts and lock washers. See Figure 3-79.

4. Remove belt. Reassemble new belt, following instructions in reverse order.

2. Slip the wire through the slot on the cable bracket underneath the handle. Push the end of the casing up through the cable bracket. Rethread the hex nut on the end of the cable. Do not tighten at this time.

3. Pull the cable upwards to obtain slack, and hook the “Z” end of the cable into the bracket on the clutch control (beneath the handle panel) as shown in Figure 3-80 (from right to left). Thread hex nut back onto the end of the cable casing.

NOTE

Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.

3-8.3 Final Clutch Adjustment. IMPORTANT: Ser-

vice the engine with oil and gasoline before checking this adjustment. Refer to the separate engine manual packed with your tiller.

1. Position the tiller so the front counterweight is against a solid object, such as a wall. With the

3-35

gear selection lever in NEUTRAL, start the engine.

2. Standing on the right side of the tiller, visually examine the belt (inside the belt cover). It should not be turning. If the belt turns with the unit in neutral, adjust by moving the hex nut below the cable bracket down a few turns. See Figure 3-80. Tighten the upper hex nut against the bracket.

3. Now move the shift lever to FORWARD (Wheels Forward) position. Carefully engage the clutch by squeezing the clutch handle against the handle. The wheels should spin.

4. If the wheels do not spin with the unit in forward, adjust by moving the hex nut which is above the cable bracket up a few turns. Tighten the bottom hex nut against the bracket. See Figure 3-80. Recheck both adjustments, and readjust as necessary.

3-8.4 Handle Adjustment (See Figure 3-81). The

handle may also be adjusted to the height desired. Loosen the handle height adjustment lock a few turns. Pivot handle up or down to desired position. Tighten lock.

On Model 420, the handle may also be adjusted to be in line with the tiller, or swung to the left or right so the operator is not walking in the freshly tilled soil. To adjust the handle position from side to side, pull the handle adjustment handle back, pivot the tiller handle to desired position and release the handle.

3-8.5 Gear Selection Handle. The gear selection

handle is located on the front of the handle assembly (right hand handle on Model 420). It is used to select NEUTRAL, REVERSE, or one of the FORWARD modes. Shift only with clutch handle disengaged (released). Pull or push the handle so that the indicator on top of the shift cover points to the operating mode desired. See Figure 3-81. (Rock unit if it is difficult to shift.)

REVERSE—Reverse wheel drive only. NEUTRAL—Transmission is in neutral. FORWARD Modes:

Wheels Forward—Forward wheel drive only. Tines Reverse —Forward wheel drive and reverse tine drive.

WARNING

Make certain unit is in NEUTRAL when starting the engine.

3-8.6 Chain Case Removal.

1. Remove the hairpin clip, rubber washer and flat washer from the bottom of the gear shift rod. Slide the rod out of the handle. See Figure 3-82.

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2. Remove the self-tapping screw and casing clamp which holds the throttle cable to the engine. Disconnect the throttle control cable “Z” fitting from the throttle lever. See Figure 3-

83.

4. Remove belt from gear case pulley. (Not necessary to remove belt from engine.) Disconnect the clutch cable from idler bracket and remove the gear case pulley. See Figure 3-85.

3. Remove the belt cover and shift cover as an assembly. Remove the nuts from the belt cover and the nut and bolt securing the shift cover bracket to the gear case. See Figure 3-84.

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5. Remove bolts and nuts securing the LH and RH tine shield brackets, located on inside front of the tine shield. Remove the nuts and bolts on top rear of chain case. Separate rear assembly from case. Remove the tines. See Figure 3-86.

7. Roll the case assembly back away from the frame. Remove the reinforcement plate and idler bracket, the shift bracket, tines and wheels from the gear case. See Figure 3-88.

NOTE

During assembly, loosely replace all nuts and bolts to ensure proper fit. With all fasteners in place, tighten securely.

6. Remove the bolts and nuts at the front of the gear case (two at top and three at front and two on bottom). Separate case from frame. See Figure 3-87.

NOTE

It is not necessary to remove the engine from the frame to change a gear case.

After chain case repairs are completed or a replacement case is procured, reassemble in reverse order of steps above.

When installing the shift bracket, do not force the bracket onto the shaft.

3-8.7 Disassembly and Reassembly.

1. Lay the transmission on its right side. Provide support as needed. See Figure 3-89.

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2. Inspect and clean the tine shaft and wheel shaft. Polish to remove any nicks or burrs. See Figure 3-90.

3. Remove the 17—1/4-20 taptite screws. See Figure 3-91.

5. Remove the reinforcement bracket and flat washer. See Figure 3-93.

6. Remove the cover support. See Figure 3-94.

4. Remove the 7/16-14 hex nut and bell washer. See Figure 3-92.

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7. Remove the cover support brackets. See Figure 3-95.

8. Remove the cable support bracket. See Figure 3-96.

9. Split the housing and remove the upper half by sliding evenly over the wheel and tines shafts. See Figure 3-97.

11. Remove the two washers and the 45 tooth gear. See Figure 3-99.

12. Remove the sprocket assembly simultaneously with the tine shaft assembly and roller chain. See FIgure 3-100.

10. Remove the gasket. See Figure 3-98.

NOTE

The welded side of the tine shaft sprocket is on the bottom.

13. Remove the cup spacer and flat washer from the tine shaft. See Figure 3-101.

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14. Remove the wheel shaft assembly, Part No. 611-0023, along with washer and spacer. See Figure 3-102.

Units produced prior to mid-1994: If rear wheel drive is periodically lacking, the large spacer, Part No. 750-0987, should be installed. See Figure 3-104.

17. Lift the drive shaft assembly until the shift fork is removed from the clutch collar. See Figure 3-105.

15. Remove the washer, spacer, gear idler assembly, and spacer from the jackshaft. See Figure 3-103.

16. Lift the large spacer off the 10 tooth spur gear.

NOTE

18. Remove the complete drive shaft assembly, Part No. 611-0015, along with chain and sprocket. See Figure 3-106.

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19. Complete drive shaft chain and sprocket disassembled. See Figure 3-107.

20. Remove the shift fork retaining ring and remove the shift fork from the housing. See Figure 3-108.

jackshaft with the reverse gear and spacer in place.

a. Slide the sprocket approximately halfway

down the spur gear with the chain already around the drive shaft sprocket.

b. Feed the chain around the sprocket.

c. Install the drive shaft while turning it

slightly to align it with the reverse gears.

d. The shift forks must also be put into the

clutch collar as you install the drive shaft.

e. Do not force the shift forks into the collar.

This could cause the collar to break.

f. Install the spacer, gear idler assembly,

spacer and washer onto the jackshaft.

g. Install the spacer, washers and wheel shaft

assembly.

h. Install the flat washer and cup spacer over

the tine shaft hole.

NOTE

Remove remaining gears and spacers from the jackshaft.

21. Clean grease and debris from both housings, gears and assemblies.

22. Replace any worn or broken parts.

23. To remove jackshafts from housing, remove the 7/16-14 lock nuts on the outside of the housing.

24. For reassembly, reverse disassembly instructions.

i. With the welded side of the tine shaft

sprocket down, assemble the roller chain, and sprocket assembly together and install into the housing.

j. Install the 45 tooth gear and two washers.

k. Install the gasket.

l. Using two and one half 16 ounce tubes (40

ounces) of Shell Durina grease, Part No. 737- 0148, thoroughly coat all gear surfaces and chain.

m. Install the housing by sliding it evenly over

the wheel and tine shafts.

n. Install the cover support.

o. Install the cable support.

p. Install the 7/16-14 lock nuts. Torque to 12-

15 ft-lbs. Do not overtighten.

q. Install the flat washer and reinforcement

bracket.

r. Install the bell washer and 7/16-14 hex nut.

NOTE

When assembling the drive shaft and intermediate shaft chain, place the spur gear over the

s. Install the 17—1/4-20 taptite screws.

t. Bench test the chain case to ensure proper

engagement of all gears.

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3-9. TILLER MODELS 430 AND 447.

3-9.1 Dual direction rear tines make the Model 430

exceptionally versatile. For light tilling, set the sixteen 13-inch diameter tines to turn forward. When stability is required for heavier tilling, set

tines to turn in reverse direction. Powered by a three-step gear reduction chain drive transmission, the reverse direction tines dig deep into the soil, doing in one pass what other rear tine tillers require several passes to complete. See Figure 3-109 and Table 3-5.

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3.8.2 Clutch Adjustment.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine before performing any adjustments, repairs or maintenance.

NOTE

Do not overtighten control wire. Too much tension may cause it to break.

1. With clutch lever released (in up position), adjust the bottom nut at the cable bracket so there is only a slight amount of slack in the control wire. See Figure 3-110. Tighten upper nut against bracket. Squeeze clutch lever against handle. The control wire should now be straight.

3-9.3 Belt Removal and Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine.

1. Remove belt cover from the left side of tiller as follows.

a. Remove two self-tapping screws and flat

washers from the top of belt cover.

b. Remove hex nut and flat washer from the

side of the belt cover.

c. Remove hex nut and flat washer at the bot-

tom of the front of cover. See Figure 3-111.

NOTE

Your tiller has been engineered with a belt made of special material (Kevlar Tensile) for longer life and better performance. It should not be replaced with an off-the-shelf belt. If belt replacement is required, order belt or belts by part number from your nearest authorized dealer. Part No. 754-0434, V belt, is new for 1995 and prior.

2. Remove hex bolt (belt keeper) located beneath engine pulley.

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3. Remove belt. Reassemble new belt following instructions in reverse order.

NOTE

Upon reassembly, make certain the belt is routed over idler pulley and inside of belt keepers at engine pulley. See Figure 3-112.

2. Remove knobs from control rod and handle adjustment rod. See Figure 3-114.

3-9.4 Disassembly of Tiller.

WARNING

Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against engine before performing any repairs.

1. Remove counterweight from the front of tiller by removing two hex bolts, flat washers, 1/2 inch lock washers and hex nuts. See Figure 3-

113.

3. Remove cotter pin from the end of handle adjustment rod at positioner bracket. Remove handle adjustment rod. See Figure 3-115.

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4. Remove cotter pin from hooked end of control rod at indicator bracket. See Figure 3-116.

5. Remove roll pin from indicator bracket. See Figure 3-117.

6. Remove shift cover by removing two self-tapping screws and flat washers. See Figure 3-

118.

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7. Cut the cable tie holding the throttle control cable at shifting shaft in top of chain case. See Figure 3-119.

8. Remove belt cover from left side of tiller as follows. See Figure 3-120.

c. Remove hex nut and flat washer from weld

bolt at the bottom of the front of the belt cover.

9. Remove hex lock nut from weld bolt on idler bracket and unhook spring. See Figure 3-121.

10. Loosen bottom hex nut on drive cable and remove drive cable from cable bracket. See Figure 3-122.

a. Remove two self-tapping screws and flat

washers from the top of belt cover.

b. Remove hex nut and flat washer from hex

bolt which goes through the frame and middle of the belt cover (head of bolt is inside the frame rail on the other side of the tiller). Two 9/16 inch wrenches are required.

11. Remove throttle control cable from the engine by removing self-tapping screw and casing clamp. Unhook Z end of cable. See Figure 3-

123.

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12. Remove handle by removing handle adjustment crank and two belleville washers, hex nut and hex bolt. See Figures 3-124 and 3-125.

13. Remove depth bar, by removing clevis pin and hairpin cotter. See Figure 3-126.

14. Remove handle pivot and positioner bracket as one assembly by removing four hex bolts, lock washers and hex nuts. See Figure 3-127.

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15. Remove tine shield by removing two hex bolts, lock washers and hex nuts at the back of tine shield. See Figure 3-128.

16. Remove eight bolts, lock washers and hex nuts at front bottom edge of tine shield and reinforcement bracket. Lift off tine shield. See Figure 3-129.

18. Remove drive belt by holding the belt tight (close to the engine). Remove hex bolt, lock washer, flat washer and spacer at engine pulley. Slide one half of split belt off. See Figure 3-

131.

17. Remove tine assemblies from tine shaft on chain case by removing clevis pin and hairpin cotters. Slide tine assemblies off tine shaft. See Figure 3-130.

19. To remove engine from engine mounting rails, remove four hex bolts, lock washers and hex nuts. See Figure 3-132.

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20. Remove wheels from wheel shaft by removing hex bolt and belleville washer. See Figure 3-

133.

22. Remove two tine shield mounting brackets from chain case.

23. Remove belt cover mounting bracket from chain case.

24. Remove two engine mounting rails from chain case.

3-9.5 If you get a tiller that is hard to roll on a floor,

you can loosen the three jackshaft bolts and roll the tiller back and forth to help align the gears. Tighten nuts when finished. This also will help shorten break in time for the chain case.

3-9.6 Disassembly of Chain Case.

1. Remove twelve self-tapping screws from around the outside edge of chain case. See Figure 3-135.

21. Remove V-pulley by removing hex bolt and flat washer. Hold pulley with belt. See Figure 3-

134.

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2. Remove three hex nuts and flat washers.

3. Remove two gear case brackets. See Figure 3-136.

NOTE

It is not necessary to remove dust covers or bearing housing to gain access into chain case.

4. Now the two chain case housings can be separated by using two screwdrivers to pry upward. You may also need to tap on the tine shaft and wheel shaft with a mallet.

5. Remove, clean and inspect gasket. Replace if necessary. See Figure 3-137.

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7. Remove three spacers. See Figure 3-97.

8. Lift out spur gear from jackshaft. Clean and inspect spur gear for any damage; replace if necessary. See Figure 3-140.

NOTE

Carefully retain flat spacer washer on top of the 30 and 44 tooth spur gear assembly. This is necessary for proper gear spacing.

9. Lift out spur gear assembly #50 chain and tine shaft assembly. Clean and inspect gears for any damage. Replace if necessary.

10. Remove the 30 and 44 tooth spur gear and flat washer. Clean and inspect gears for any damage. Replace if necessary.

11. Remove gear hub. See Figure 3-141.

12. Lift out wheel shaft assembly, 55 tooth spur gear assembly and #420 chain. Clean and inspect all parts for damage. Replace if necessary. See Figure 3-142.

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13. Remove detent shaft assembly and 16 tooth spur gear assembly. Clean and inspect parts for damage. Replace if necessary. See Figure 3-143.

14. Remove shifting bracket and spacer. See Figure 3-144.

NOTE

Hub side of spur gear goes up upon reassembly.

16. Remove flat washer, spacer, three flat washers and three jackshafts from housing. See Figure 3-146.

NOTE

In 1989 and earlier production the shift bracket could slide out. In 1990 and later production there is a snap ring on the shifting bracket on the outer side of the housing to help absorb shock during shipping. This will help avoid damage to the shifting bracket that would cause loss of shifting capability.

15. Remove the 30 tooth spur. Clean and inspect for damage. Replace if necessary. See Figure 3-145.

17. To reassemble chain case, reverse preceding steps.

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450 SERIES DUAL DIRECTION REAR TINE TILLER

Removing the Tiller from the Carton

1. Remove the staples from the top of the carton using a pair of pliers. See Figure 3-147.

2. Carefully slice the carton tape sealing the top of the carton using a utility knife.

NOTE

There are many ways to remove the unit from the carton. Perform this step in a manner that best suits you, and make certain the control cable does not get bent or kinked during removal. See Figure 3-149.

3. Grasp the top flaps of the carton and pivot them outward.

4. Remove all loose components from the carton and set them aside. See Figure 3-148.

5. Remove all packing materials.

7. Remove and read all of the manuals. See Figure 3-150.

8. Fill out the registration form.

9. Locate the model and serial label and record this information in your owners manual and on the registration form. See Figure 3-151.

6. Remove the tiller from the carton.

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Depth Stake Installation

1. Tilt the tiller forward and rest it on the front counterweight.

2. Locate the depth stake and remove the “T” knob, flat washer, and hex bolt from the depth stake. See Figure 3-152.

3. Remove the clevis pin and hairpin from the depth stake.

NOTE

Make certain the depth stake is inserted with the “L” portion facing rearward.

5. Secure the depth stake to the depth stake bracket using the clevis pin and hairpin removed earlier.

NOTE

Insert the clevis pin from right to left, through the second hole from the top of the depth stake.

6. Insert the hex bolt from the left, through the top hole of the depth stake, and secure it from the right using the flat washer and “T” knob removed earlier.

7. Slowly lower the tiller rearward until it is resting on the depth stake.

Handle Installation

1. Remove both hex cap screws and flange lock nuts from the handle brackets using two 1/2" wrenches and two 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 3-154.

4. Raise the tine shield hinge flap and insert the depth stake (from below) up through the rear of the upper tine shield directly in front of the spacer. See Figure 3-153.

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NOTE

DO NOT remove the lower rear hex cap screw and flange lock nut securing the handle brackets and spacer.

2. Locate and align the lower handle assembly mounting holes with the holes in the handle brackets.

3. Secure the lower handle assembly to the handle brackets with the hex cap screws and flange lock nuts removed earlier, using two 1/2" wrenches and two 9/16” wrenches.

NOTE

The smaller hex cap screw is inserted in the front mounting hole.

Clutch Cable Installation

1. Route the clutch cable up the left side of the handle assembly.

2. Loosen the jam nut securing the eyebolt to the threaded cable end using a 7/32” wrench and a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 3-155.

3. Unscrew and remove the eyebolt from the threaded cable end.

4. Slide the threaded cable end up through the center of the upper handle assembly mounting hole and snap the retainer in place. See Figure 3-156.

NOTE

Spread the outer retainer tabs using a small flat-blade screwdriver.

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5. Thread the eyebolt into the threaded cable end several turns. See Figure 3-157.

6. Secure the eyebolt to the clutch bail with the cap screw, flat washers, and elastic lock nut using a 7/16” socket and a 7/16” wrench.

NOTE

If the bail closes with no resistance and the clutch cable does not straighten out, tighten the threaded cable end two turns at a time until the bail closes to the handle bar comfortably with a slight amount of resistance.

8. Secure the eyebolt to the threaded cable end with the jam nut loosened earlier using a 7/32” wrench and a 3/8” wrench.

NOTE

DO NOT over tighten the clutch control cable or damage may occur.

IMPORTANT: Make certain the Clutch Cable Adjustment is performed prior to operating the tiller.

Shift Control Rod Installation

7. Grasp the bail and slowly close it to the upper handle bar assembly.

NOTE

If the bail has too much resistance and does not want to close to the upper handle bar, loosen the threaded cable end two turns at a time until the bail closes to the handle bar comfortably with a slight amount of resistance. See Figure 3-158.

1. Remove the hairpins from the ends of the shift control rod.

2. Identify the long and short angled ends of the shift control rod.

3. Make certain the rubber washer is in place on each end.

4. Insert the short angled end of the shift control rod through the indicator bracket and secure it with the hairpin removed earlier. See Figure 3-

159.

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5. Insert the long angled end of the shift control rod through the gear selector handle and

secure it with the hairpin removed earlier. See Figure 3-160.

Neutral Clutch Cable Adjustment

IMPORTANT: Make certain the engine has

been serviced with oil and gasoline prior to performing this adjustment. Refer to the separate engine manual.

NOTE

DO NOT place fingers under the belt cover.

5. The belt should not have any motion. If the belt has motion, proceed to step 6. If the belt does not have motion, perform the Primary Forward Clutch Cable Adjustment Section.

6. If the belt has motion with the tiller in neutral, and the engine running, loosen the jam nut securing the eyebolt to the threaded cable end using a 7/32” wrench and a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 3-162.

1. Position the front counterweight up against a solid object. See Figure 3-161.

2. Make certain the gear selector indicator bracket is in the NEUTRAL position.

3. Start the engine.

7. Loosen the eyebolt two full rotations at a time, checking the belt for motion.

8. When the proper adjustment has been achieved, tighten the hex jam nut down securing the eyebolt to the threaded cable end using a 7/32” and a 3/8” wrench.

Primary Forward Clutch Cable Adjustment

WARNING

Make certain the engine has been serviced with oil and gasoline prior to performing this adjustment. Refer to the separate engine manual.

1. Position the front counterweight up against a solid object. See Figure 3-163.

4. Standing on the right side of the tiller, examine the belt (inside the belt cover) for motion.

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2. Place the gear selector indicator bracket in the Forward Wheel Drive position.

3. Standing behind the tiller, grasp the upper handle bar assembly with two hands.

1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug wire against the engine.

2. Remove the hairpin and clevis pin securing the left wheel assembly to the wheel shaft.

3. Slide the left wheel assembly away from the belt cover.

NOTE

Do not remove the left wheel assembly.

4. Remove both torx screws securing the top of the belt cover to the tiller casing using a male T27 torx. See Figure 3-164.

4. Slowly engage the bail to the upper handle bar assembly and make certain the drive wheels are spinning.

5. If the wheels do not spin, loosen the hex jam nut securing the eyebolt to the threaded clutch cable end using a 7/32” and a 3/8” wrench.

6. Tighten the threaded cable end two complete rotations at a time, checking the clutch bail engagement for spinning tires.

7. When the proper adjustment has been achieved, tighten the hex jam nut down securing the eyebolt to the threaded cable end using a 7/32” wrench and a 3/8” wrench.

IMPORTANT: Perform the Neutral Clutch Cable Adjustment section prior to operating the tiller.

Secondary Forward Clutch Cable Adjustment

IMPORTANT: Perform the Primary Forward

Clutch Cable Adjustment section prior to performing this section.

5. Remove the acorn lock nut and flat washer securing the side belt cover to the tiller casing using a 7/16” socket.

6. Remove the hex screw securing the belt cover to the engine mounting bracket using a 3/8” socket.

7. Remove the belt cover from the tiller.

8. Remove the hex screw, lock washer, and flat washer securing the input pulley to the input shaft using a 7/16” socket. See Figure 3-165.

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9. Remove the input pulley from the input shaft.

10. Loosen the lower jam nut securing the threaded clutch cable end to the tiller case bracket using two 1/2" wrenches. See Figure 3-166.

ward Clutch Cable Adjustment section prior to operating the tiller.

Idler Pulley Rod Adjustment

IMPORTANT: After the Primary and Secondary

Forward Clutch Cable Adjustment sections have been performed, the belt may be excessively stretched. When the belt stretches, the idler pulley rod may need to be adjusted. See Figure 3-167.

11. Rotate the lower hex nut until it is flush with the threaded clutch cable end and tighten the upper jam nut to the bracket.

12. Secure the upper jam nut to the tiller case bracket using two 1/2" wrenches.

13. Assemble the input pulley and the belt cover to the tiller in the reverse order above.

IMPORTANT: Perform the Neutral Clutch Cable Adjustment section and the Primary For-

1. Make certain the engine is off and the clutch bail is released.

2. Shift the gear selector to all the forward modes.

NOTE

If the indicator bracket touches the idler pulley rod (with the clutch control bail disengaged), perform the following steps:

3. Disconnect and ground the spark plug wire against the engine.

4. Remove the hairpin and clevis pin securing the left wheel assembly to the wheel shaft.

5. Slide the left wheel assembly away from the belt cover.

6. Remove both torx screws securing the top of the belt cover to the tiller casing using a male T27 torx. See Figure 3-168.

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7. Remove the acorn lock nut and flat washer securing the side belt cover to the tiller casing using a 7/16” socket.

8. Remove the hex screw securing the belt cover to the engine mounting bracket using a 3/8” socket.

13. Shift the gear selector to all the forward modes.

14. Assemble the tiller in the reverse order above.

Tire Pressure

1. Remove the valve stem cap. See Figure 3-

170.

9. Remove the belt cover from the tiller.

10. Remove the hairpin and wave washer securing the idler pulley rod to the idler bracket using a pair of needle-nose pliers. See Figure 3-169.

11. Move the idler pulley rod to the lower hole in the idler bracket.

2. Place a tire gauge over the end of the valve stem and push down.

3. Record the pressure (P.S.I.).

4. Examine the side walls of the tire and identify the manufacturer’s recommended pressure.

5. Inflate or deflate the tires until the recommended tire pressure has been achieved.

NOTE

Recommended tire pressure for this tiller is 20 P.S.I.

Gear Selector Positions

The shift selector handle is mounted left of center on the upper handle bar.

a. By applying pressure to the shift selector han-

dle, the shift rod rotates the indicator bracket, thus selecting a geared position in the transmission. See Figure 3-171.

12. Secure the idler pulley rod to the idler bracket with the wave washer and hairpin removed earlier.

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b. The shift cover label clearly states the gear the

tiller is in, and what direction the tines will rotate. See Table 3-6 below.

1. The tilling depth is controlled by the depth stake that can be adjusted to five different settings.

NOTE

Never engage the clutch bail while shifting.

Depth Stake and Side Shield Positions

WARNING

When operating the tiller for the firsttime, use the depth stake setting that gives 1 inch of tilling depth (second hole from top). See Figure 3-172.

NOTE

The side shields must be adjusted along with the depth stake. See Figure 3-173.

2. To adjust the depth stake, remove the hairpin and clevis pin.

3. Move the depth stake up or down to the desired height and secure it into place.

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4. To adjust the side shields, remove the front wing nut and loosen the rear wing nut.

5. Pivot the side shields to the desired position and secure the wing nuts.

6. When breaking up sod and performing shallow cultivation, use the setting which gives 1” of tilling depth (second hole from the top).

NOTE

Make certain the side shields are lowered to the lowest setting.

7. To increase depth, raise the depth stake and side shields.

8. When tilling loose soil, the depth stake can be raised to its highest position (bottom adjustment hole).

NOTE

Make certain both side shields are raised to the highest setting.

9. When transporting the tiller, lower the depth stake and secure it in the top adjustment hole.

Belt Replacement

IMPORTANT: This tiller has been engineered

to use a belt made of Kevlar Tensile for longer life and better performance. The proper part number belt for this tiller is Part No. 754-0434.

1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug wire against the engine.

2. Remove the hairpin and clevis pin securing the left wheel assembly to the wheel shaft.

3. Slide the left wheel assembly away from the belt cover.

4. Remove both torx screws securing the top of the belt cover to the tiller casing using a male T27 torx. See Figure 3-174.

5. Remove the acorn lock nut and flat washer securing the side belt cover to the tiller casing using a 7/16” socket.

6. Remove the hex screw securing the belt cover to the engine mounting bracket using a 3/8” socket.

7. Remove the belt cover from the tiller.

8. Remove both hex screws and washers securing the belt keeper bracket to the engine using a 1/2" socket. See Figure 3-175.

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9. Loosen the center lock jam nut and hex cap screw securing the idler belt keeper to the idler pulley.

10. Remove the V-belt from the unit.

11. Install a new belt in the reverse order above.

NOTE

Make certain the V-belt is installed properly between the pulleys and the belt keepers.

12. Perform all Clutch Cable Adjustments prior to operating the tiller.

Problem Solving Pathfinder

Problem: Wheels Do Not Rotate Under Power

Exterior Gear Case Assembly Inspection

1. Are the hairpins and clevis pins securing the wheel assemblies to the wheel shafts? See Figure 3-176.

a. Fix: Proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assem-

bly Inspection.

3. Is the spiral pin securing the indicator bracket to the shift lever? See Figure 3-178.

a. Fix: Install hairpins and clevis pins.

2. Does the shift lever lock into each gear selection? See Figure 3-177.

a. Fix: Install a new spiral pin.

4. Is the clutch control cable adjusted properly? See Figure 3-179.

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a. Fix: Perform the Clutch Cable Adjustment sec-

tions.

5. Is the V-belt worn or stretched? See Figure 3-

180.

8. Is the input pulley secured to the input shaft? See Figure 3-181.

a. Fix: Secure the input pulley using a hex bolt,

lock washer, and flat washer.

9. Does the input pulley rotate the input shaft? See Figure 3-182.

a. Fix: Perform the Belt Replacement section.

6. Is the V-belt routed correctly?

a. Fix: Remove the belt cover and verify that the

V-belt is routed correctly.

7. Does the engine pulley rotate the crankshaft of the engine?

a. Fix: Remove the engine pulley halves and

replace.

a. Fix: Remove the input pulley and inspect the

engagement splines. If worn, replace the input pulley.

10. When the indicator bracket is locked into a wheel drive position, and the input pulley is rotated, does the wheel shaft assembly rotate? See Figure 3-183.

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a. Fix: Replace the snap ring and run through all

the gear selector positions. Test the unit in normal

11. With the spring pin and indicator bracket removed, does the shift lever have a snap ring securing it in place? See Figure 3-184.

Interior Gear Case Assembly Inspection

NOTE

Perform the Tiller Gear Case Assembly Removal and the Gear Case Separation sections prior to performing the interior inspection.

1. Inspect the “L” portion of the shift lever where it engages into the shift fork. See Figure 3-185.

CAUTION

Internal damage may have occurred to the shift lever because of the missing snap ring. If damaged, proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assembly Inspection section.

a. Fix: Replace the snap ring and run through all

the gear selector positions. Test the unit in normal operating conditions to make certain internal damage did not occur. If damage, proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assembly Inspection section.

2. Is the “L” portion of the shift lever bent and not allowing the shift fork to move through all detent positions?

a. Fix: Proceed to the Shift Lever Replacement

section.

REVERSE WHEELS:

1. Using a drift punch, rotate the shift lever to the reverse drive position (all the way down). See Figure 3-186.

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NOTE

9. Does the 30T spur gear rotate the 11T inner gear assembly?

The detent shaft must be held in place to move the shift fork.

2. Slowly rotate the hexed input shaft counterclockwise and inspect the following functions:

NOTE

Replace any of the following components that are found to be worn or damaged.

3. Does the 16T spur gear rotate with the hexed input shaft?

4. Does the 16T spur gear or hexed input shaft have extensive wear or damage?

5. Does the 16T spur gear rotate the 30T reverse idler spur gear on the reverse jack shaft? See Figure 3-187.

10. Does the 11T inner gear assembly have extensive wear or damage?

11. Does the 11T inner gear assembly rotate the 44T spur gear on the wheel reduction jack shaft.

12. Does the 44T spur gear have extensive wear or damage?

13. Does the 44T spur gear rotate the 10T wheel input sprocket assembly? See Figure 3-188.

6. Does the 30T reverse idler spur gear have extensive wear or damage?

7. Does the 30T reverse idler spur gear rotate the 30T spur gear on the center jack shaft?

8. Does the 30T spur gear have extensive wear or damage?

14. Does the 10T wheel input sprocket assembly have extensive wear or damage?

NOTE

This is a gear and sprocket component.

15. Does the wheel input sprocket assembly rotate the #420 chain?

16. Does the #420 chain have extensive wear or damage?

17. Does the #420 chain rotate the 33T wheel shaft assembly? See Figure 3-189.

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18. Does the 33T wheel shaft assembly have extensive wear or damage?

19. Does the weld securing the 33T gear to the wheel shaft assembly appear to have any defects? See Figure 3-190.

NOTE

The detent shaft must be held in place to move the shift fork.

2. Slowly rotate the hexed input shaft counterclockwise and inspect the following functions:

NOTE

Replace any of the following components that are found to be worn or damaged.

3. Does the 16T spur gear rotate with the hexed input shaft?

4. Does the 16T spur gear or hexed input shaft have extensive wear or damage?

5. Does the 16T spur gear rotate the lower 44T spur gear on the center jack shaft?

6. Does the 44T spur gear have extensive wear or damage?

FORWARD WHEELS:

1. Using a drift punch, rotate the shift lever to the forward drive position (first position up past neutral). See Figure 3-191.

7. Does the 44T spur gear rotate the 11T inner gear assembly?

8. Does the 11T inner gear assembly have extensive wear or damage?

9. Does the 11T inner gear assembly rotate the 44T spur gear on the wheel reduction jack shaft? See Figure 3-192.

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10. Does the 44T spur gear have extensive wear or damage?

11. Does the 44T spur gear rotate the 10T wheel input sprocket assembly?

16. Does the 33T wheel shaft assembly have extensive wear or damage?

17. Does the weld securing the 33T gear to the wheel shaft assembly appear to be broken or defective? See Figure 3-194.

12. Does the 10T wheel input sprocket assembly have extensive wear or damage?

NOTE

This is a gear and sprocket component.

13. Does the 10T wheel input sprocket assembly rotate the #420 chain?

14. Does the #420 chain have extensive wear or damage?

15. Does the #420 chain rotate the 33T wheel shaft assembly? See Figure 3-193.

Problem: Tines Do Not Rotate Under Power

Exterior Gear Case Assembly Inspection

1. Are the hairpins and clevis pins securing the tine assemblies to the tine shaft? See Figure 3-

195.

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a. Fix: Install the hairpins and clevis pins.

2. Does the shift lever lock into each gear selection? See Figure 3-196.

a. Fix: Proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assem-

bly

a. Fix: Perform the Clutch Cable Adjustment sec-

tions.

3. Is the spiral pin securing the indicator bracket to the shift lever? See Figure 3-197.

• Fix: Install a new spiral pin.

4. Is the clutch control cable adjusted properly? See Figure 3-198.

5 Is the V-belt worn or stretched? See Figure 3-199.

a. Fix: Perform the Belt Replacement section.

6. Is the V-belt routed correctly?

Fix: Remove the belt cover and verify that the V-belt is routed correctly.

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7. Does the engine pulley rotate the crankshaft of the engine?

a. Fix: Remove the engine pulley halves and

replace.

8. Is the input pulley secured to the input shaft? See Figure 3-200.

a. Fix: Secure the input pulley using a hex bolt,

lock washer, and flat washer.

9. Does the input pulley rotate the input shaft? See Figure 3-201.

a. Fix: Remove the input pulley and inspect the

engagement splines. If worn, replace the input pulley.

a. Fix: Proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assem-

bly Inspection.

11. With the spring pin and indicator bracket removed, does the shift lever have a snap ring securing it in place? See Figure 3-203.

CAUTION

10. When the indicator bracket is locked into a wheel drive and tine rotation position, and the input pulley is rotated, does the tine shaft assembly rotate with the drive shaft assembly? See Figure 3-202.

Internal damage may have occurred to the shift lever because of the missing snap ring.

a. Fix: Replace the snap ring and run through all

the gear selector positions. Test the unit in normal operating conditions, to make certain internal damage did not occur. If damaged, proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assembly Inspection section.

Interior Gear Case Assembly Inspection

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NOTE

Perform the Tiller Gear Case Assembly Removal and the Gear Case Separation sections prior to performing the interior inspection.

1. Inspect the “L” portion of the shift lever where it engages into the shift fork. See Figure 3-204.

2. Is the “L” portion of the shift lever bent?

a. Fix: Proceed to the Shift Lever Replacement

section.

TINES REVERSE - Forward Drive

NOTE

Replace any of the following components that are found to be worn or damaged.

3. Does the 16T spur gear rotate with the hexed input shaft?

4. Does the 16T spur gear or hexed input shaft have extensive wear or damage?

5. Does the 16T spur gear rotate the upper 44T spur gear?

6. Does the 44T spur gear have excessive wear or damage?

IMPORTANT: This section is specific to TINE OPERATIONS, NOT wheel drive.

1. Using a drift punch, rotate the shift lever to the tines reverse - forward wheel drive position (both 44T spur gears on center jack shaft engaged into 16T input spur gear). See Figure 3-204.

7. Does the 44T spur gear rotate the 9T tine input sprocket assembly? See Figure 3-205.

8. Does the 9T tine input sprocket assembly have excessive wear or damage?

NOTE

The detent shaft must be held in place to move the shift fork.

2. Slowly rotate the hexed input shaft counterclockwise and inspect the following functions:

This is a gear and sprocket component.

9. Does the 9T tine input sprocket assembly rotate the #50 chain?

10. Does the #50 chain have extensive wear or damage?

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11. Does the #50 chain rotate the 18T tine shaft assembly? See Figure 3-206.

NOTE

12. Does the 18T tine shaft assembly have extensive wear or damage?

13. Does the weld securing the 18T gear to the tine shaft assembly appear to be broken or defective? See Figure 3-207.

TINES FORWARD - Forward Drive

IMPORTANT: This section is specific to TINE

OPERATIONS, NOT wheel drive.

1. Using a drift punch, rotate the shift lever to the tines forward wheel drive position (all the way up). See Figure 3-208.

The detent shaft must be held in place to move the shift fork.

2. Slowly rotate the hexed input shaft counterclockwise and inspect the following functions:

NOTE

Replace any of the following components that are found to be worn or damaged.

3. Does the 16T spur gear rotate with the hexed input shaft?

4. Does the 16T spur gear or hexed input shaft have extensive wear or damage?

5. Does the 16T spur gear rotate the wide 30T forward tine idler gear assembly?

6. Does the wide 30T idler gear assembly have extensive wear or damage?

7. Does the wide 30T idler gear assembly rotate the 30T spur gear on the center jack shaft?

8. Does the 30T spur gear have extensive wear or damage?

9. Does the 30T spur gear rotate the 9T tine input sprocket assembly?

10. Does the 9T tine input sprocket assembly have excessive wear or damage?

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11. Does the 9T tine input sprocket rotate the #50 chain? See Figure 3-209.

Problem: Tiller Will Not Go Into Neutral

12. Does the #50 chain have extensive wear or damage?

13. Does the #50 chain rotate the 18T tine shaft assembly? See Figure 3-210.

14. Does the 18T tine shaft assembly have extensive wear or damage?

15. Does the weld securing the 18T gear to the tine shaft assembly appear to be broken or defective? See Figure 3-211.

Exterior Gear Case Assembly Inspection

1. Does the shift lever lock into each gear selection? See Figure 3-212.

a. Fix: Proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assem-

bly Inspection section.

2. Is the spiral pin securing the indicator bracket to the shift lever? See Figure 3-213.

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a. Fix: Install a new spiral pin.

3. Is the V-belt too tight, binding up the input pulley?

a. Fix: Perform the Clutch Cable Adjustment sec-

tions.

4. Is the V-belt routed correctly? See Figure 3-

214.

a. Fix: Proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assem-

bly Inspection.

6. With the spring pin and indicator bracket removed, does the shift lever have a snap ring securing it in place? See Figure 3-216.

a. Fix: Remove the belt cover and verify that the

V-belt is routed correctly.

5. When the indicator bracket is locked into the neutral drive position, and the input pulley is rotated, does the drive shaft assembly rotate? See Figure 3-215.

CAUTION

Internal damage may have occurred to the shift lever because of the missing snap ring.

a. Fix: Replace the snap ring and run through all

the gear selector positions. Test the unit in normal operating conditions, to make certain internal damage did not occur. If damaged, proceed to the Interior Gear Case Assembly Inspection section.

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Interior Gear Case Assembly Inspection

NOTE

Perform the Tiller Gear Case Assembly Removal and the Gear Case Separation sections prior to performing the interior inspection.

1. Inspect the “L” portion of the shift lever where it engages into the shift fork.

2. Is the “L” portion of the shift lever bent? See Figure 3-217.

NOTE

The detent shaft must be held in place to move the shift fork.

a. Fix: Proceed to the Shift Lever Replacement

section.

NEUTRAL

1. Using a drift punch, rotate the shift lever to the neutral position (16T input spur gear not engaged into any gears). See Figure 3-218.

2. Slowly rotate the hexed input shaft counterclockwise and inspect the following functions:

NOTE

Replace any of the following components that are found to be worn or damaged.

1. Does the 16T spur gear rotate with the hexed input shaft?

2. Does the 16T spur gear or hexed input shaft have extensive wear or damage?

3. Does the shift lever move the shift fork and 16T input spur gear up and down the input shaft freely?

Gear Case Removal

1. Support the front counterweight from below using a suitable jack. See Figure 3-219.

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2. Remove both sets of hex nuts, lock washers, and flat washers securing the front counterweight to the gear case assembly using a 3/4" socket and a 3/4" wrench. See Figure 3-220.

3. Remove the front counterweight.

4. Remove the lock nut securing the idler pulley assembly to the idler bracket using a 9/16” socket and a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 3-221.

5. Remove the hex cap screw, flanged idler pulley, and idler belt keeper from the idler bracket.

6. Roll the V-belt off of the input pulley. See Figure 3-222.

7. Remove all three self tapping washer head screws securing the engine to the gear case assembly using a 1/2" socket. See Figure 3-

223.

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NOTE

Two self tapping screws on the right side and one on the left.

8. Remove the hex bolt, bell washer, and hex nut securing the left rear corner of the engine base to the gear case assembly using a 1/2" socket and a 1/2" wrench.

NOTE

11. Remove the spiral pin securing the indicator bracket to the shift lever using a drift punch and hammer. See Figure 3-225.

12. Remove both female torx screws securing the shift cover to the gear case assembly using a T27 torx.

13. Remove the clutch control cable from the eyebolt using a 7/32” wrench and a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 3-226.

The left rear mounting hole is slotted for engine alignment.

9. Remove both hairpins securing the ends of the shift rod to the indicator bracket and shift lever handle. See Figure 3-224.

14. Compress the snap retainer securing the clutch control cable to the upper handle bar and remove the cable using a pair of pliers. See Figure 3-227.

10. Remove the shift rod.

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15. Remove and discard the zip tie securing the clutch control cable to the lower handle bar.

16. Remove the T-knob, flat washer, and hex screw from the depth stake. See Figure 3-228.

17. Remove the hairpin and clevis pin securing the depth stake to the tine shield bracket.

NOTE

DO NOT remove the lower rear hex cap screw and flange lock nut securing the handle brackets and spacer.

20. Remove the handle assembly from the unit.

21. Place chocks in front of the wheels to keep them from rolling. See Figure 3-230.

18. Remove the depth stake.

19. Remove both hex cap screws and flange lock nuts from the handle brackets using two 1/2" wrenches and two 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 3-229.

22. Place the tiller in gear using a center drift punch for leverage.

23. Tilt the tiller forward and place a jack-stand under the center of the gear case assembly.

24. Remove the plastic wing nuts securing the side tine shield covers and adjustable tine shields.

25. Remove the side tine shield covers and adjustable tine shields.

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26. Remove the clevis pins and hair pins securing the right and left tine assemblies. See Figure 3-231.

27. Remove both tine assemblies from the tine shaft assembly.

NOTE

The outer two hex bolts are shorter then the middle two hex bolts.

29. Remove all four hex bolts securing the right portion of the shoulder spacer bracket to the tine shield and gear case assembly using a 1/ 2" socket and a 1/2" wrench. See Figure 3-

233.

NOTE

Make certain the tine shaft is lubricated during assembly.

28. Remove all four hex bolts securing the left portion of the shoulder spacer bracket to the tine shield and gear case assembly using a 1/2" socket and a 1/2" wrench. See Figure 3-232.

NOTE

The outer two hex bolts are shorter than the middle two hex bolts.

30. Remove all four hex nuts, lock washers, and carriage bolts securing the handle brackets to the tine shield using a 9/16” socket. See Figure 3-

234.

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31. Remove the right rear hex bolt, flat washer, and lock nut securing the rear tine shield to the gear case assembly using a 1/2" socket and a 1/2" wrench. See Figure 3-235.

32. Remove the left rear hex bolt (rear shield stop), flat washer, and lock nut securing the rear tine shield to the gear case assembly using a 1/2" socket and a 1/2" wrench. See Figure 3-236.

33. Remove the tine shield assembly from the gear case assembly.

34. Remove both clevis pins and hair pins securing the wheel assemblies to the wheel shaft assembly. See Figure 3-237.

NOTE

Lubricate the wheel shaft during assembly.

35. Remove both wheel assemblies.

36. Assemble the tiller in the reverse order above.

Gear Case Separation

1. Remove the hex screw, lock washer, and flat washer securing the input pulley to the input shaft using a 7/16” socket. See Figure 3-238.

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Cub Cadet I-Beam Style User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual