Chrysler PT Cruiser 2002 User Manual

8A
8B

8E

8F
8G
8H

8I
8J
8L

8M

8N
8O

8P

8Q
8R

8W

11
13
14
19
21
22
23
24
25

GROUP TAB LOCATOR

Introduction
Lubrication & Maintenance

0

Suspension

2

Differential & Driveline

3

Brakes

5

Clutch

6

Cooling

7

Audio
Chime/Buzzer
Electronic Control Modules
Engine Systems
Heated Systems
Horn
Ignition Control
Instrument Cluster
Lamps
Message Systems
Power Systems
Restraints
Speed Control
Vehicle Theft Security
Wipers/Washers
Wiring
Engine

9

Exhaust System and Turbocharger
Frame & Bumpers
Fuel System
Steering
Transaxle
Tires/Wheels
Body
Heating & Air Conditioning
Emissions Control
Component and System Index

Service Manual Comment Forms (Rear of Manual)

PT INTRODUCTION 1

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

BODY CODE PLATE

DESCRIPTION ..........................1

FASTENER IDENTIFICATION

DESCRIPTION ..........................2

FASTENER USAGE

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION - FASTENER USAGE ........5

DESCRIPTION - THREADED HOLE REPAIR . . 5

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

DESCRIPTION ..........................5

METRIC SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION ..........................6

TORQUE REFERENCES

DESCRIPTION ..........................8

BODY CODE PLATE

DESCRIPTION

The Body Code Plate (Fig. 1) is located in the
engine compartment on the plenum behind the right
side strut tower (Fig. 2). There are seven lines of
information on the body code plate. Lines 4, 5, 6, and
7 are not used to define service information. Informa­tion reads from left to right, starting with line 3 in
the center of the plate to line 1 at the bottom of the
plate.

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

DESCRIPTION - VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION

NUMBER .............................9

VEHICLE SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL

DESCRIPTION .........................10

E-MARK LABEL

DESCRIPTION .........................10

VECI LABEL

DESCRIPTION .........................10

MANUFACTURER PLATE

DESCRIPTION .........................10

BODY CODE PLATE LINE 2

DIGITS 1, 2, AND 3

Paint procedure

DIGIT 4

Open Space

DIGITS 5 THROUGH 7

Primary paint

(Refer to 23 - BODY/PAINT - SPECIFICATIONS)
for Body Color Codes.

DIGIT 8 AND 9

Open Space

DIGITS 10 THROUGH 12

Secondary Paint

DIGIT 13 AND 14

Open Space

Fig. 1 BODY CODE PLATE

1 - PRIMARY PAINT
2 - SECONDARY PAINT
3 - VINYL ROOF
4 - VEHICLE ORDER NUMBER
5 - CAR LINE SHELL
6 - PAINT PROCEDURE
7 - ENGINE
8 - TRIM
9 - TRANSMISSION
10 - MARKET
11 - VIN

DIGITS 15 THROUGH 18

Interior Trim Code

DIGIT 19

Open Space

2 INTRODUCTION PT

BODY CODE PLATE (Continued)

DIGIT 5

Market Code

• C = Canada

• B = International

• M = Mexico

• U = United States

DIGIT 6

Open Space

DIGITS 7 THROUGH 23

Vehicle Identification Number

• (Refer to VEHICLE DATA/VEHICLE INFOR­MATION/VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER ­DESCRIPTION) for proper breakdown of VIN code.

Fig. 2 BODY CODE PLATE 2

1 - BODY CODE PLATE
2 - BODY CODE EMBOSS

DIGITS 20, 21, AND 22

Engine Code

• EJD = 1.6L Four Cylinder 16 Valves SOHC Gas-

oline

• ECC = 2.0L Four Cylinder 16 Valves DOHC

Gasoline

• EDJ = 2.2L Four Cylinder Turbo Diesel Engine

• EDZ = 2.4L Four Cylinder 16 Valves DOHC Gas-

oline

• EDV = 2.4L Four Cylinder 16 Valves DOHC

H.O. Turbo Gasoline

DIGIT 23

Open Space

BODY CODE PLATE LINE 1

DIGITS 1, 2, AND 3

Transaxle Codes

• DGL = 41TE 4-Speed Electronic Automatic

Transaxle

• DD5 = NV T350 5-Speed Manual Transaxle

• DDD = GETRAG 288 5-Speed Manual Transaxle

IF TWO BODY CODE PLATES ARE REQUIRED

The last code shown on either plate will be fol­lowed by END. When two plates are required, the
last code space on the first plate will indicate (CTD)

When a second plate is required, the first four
spaces of each line will not be used due to overlap of
the plates.

FASTENER IDENTIFICATION

DESCRIPTION

The SAE bolt strength grades range from grade 2
to grade 8. The higher the grade number, the greater
the bolt strength. Identification is determined by the
line marks on the top of each bolt head. The actual
bolt strength grade corresponds to the number of line
marks plus 2. The most commonly used metric bolt
strength classes are 9.8 and 10.9. The metric
strength class identification number is imprinted on
the head of the bolt. The higher the class number,
the greater the bolt strength. Some metric nuts are
imprinted with a single-digit strength class on the
nut face. Refer to the Fastener Identification and
Fastener Strength Charts (Fig. 3) and (Fig. 4).

DIGIT 4

Open Space

PT INTRODUCTION 3

FASTENER IDENTIFICATION (Continued)

Fig. 3 FASTENER IDENTIFICATION

4 INTRODUCTION PT

FASTENER IDENTIFICATION (Continued)

Fig. 4 FASTENER STRENGTH

PT INTRODUCTION 5

FASTENER USAGE

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION - FASTENER USAGE

WARNING: USE OF AN INCORRECT FASTENER
MAY RESULT IN COMPONENT DAMAGE OR PER­SONAL INJURY.

Fasteners and torque specifications references in
this Service Manual are identified in metric and SAE
format.

During any maintenance or repair procedures, it is
important to salvage all fasteners (nuts, bolts, etc.)
for reassembly. If the fastener is not salvageable, a
fastener of equivalent specification must be used.

DESCRIPTION - THREADED HOLE REPAIR

Most stripped threaded holes can be repaired using
a Helicoilt. Follow the vehicle or Helicoilt recommen­dations for application and repair procedures.

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

DESCRIPTION

The graphic symbols illustrated in the following
International Control and Display Symbols Chart
(Fig. 5) are used to identify various instrument con­trols. The symbols correspond to the controls and dis­plays that are located on the instrument panel.

Fig. 5 INTERNATIONAL CONTROL AND DISPLAY SYMBOLS

1 High Beam 13 Rear Window Washer
2 Fog Lamps 14 Fuel
3 Headlamp, Parking Lamps, Panel Lamps 15 Engine Coolant Temperature
4 Turn Warning 16 Battery Charging Condition
5 Hazard Warning 17 Engine Oil
6 Windshield Washer 18 Seat Belt
7 Windshield Wiper 19 Brake Failure
8 Windshield Wiper and Washer 20 Parking Brake

9 Windscreen Demisting and Defrosting 21 Front Hood
10 Ventilating Fan 22 Rear hood (Decklid)
11 Rear Window Defogger 23 Horn
12 Rear Window Wiper 24 Lighter

6 INTRODUCTION PT

METRIC SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION

The metric system is based on quantities of one,

ten, one hundred, one thousand and one million.

CONVERSION FORMULAS AND EQUIVALENT VALUES

MULTIPLY BY TO GET MULTIPLY BY TO GET

in-lbs x

0.11298

ft-lbs x

1.3558

Inches Hg (60° F) x 3.377 = Kilopascals (kPa) kPa x

psi x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) kPa x 0.145 = psi
Inches x 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) mm x

Feet x

0.3048

Yards x

0.9144

mph x

1.6093

Feet/Sec x

0.3048

mph x

0.4470

Kilometers/Hr. (Km/h) x

0.27778

= Newton Meters
(N·m)

= Newton Meters
(N·m)

= Meters (M) M x 3.281 = Feet

= Meters M x

= Kilometers/Hr.
(Km/h)

= Meters/Sec (M/S) M/S x 3.281 = Feet/Sec

= Meters/Sec (M/S) M/S x 2.237 = mph

= Meters/Sec (M/S) M/S x 3.600 Kilometers/Hr. (Km/h)

The following chart will assist in converting metric
units to equivalent English and SAE units, or vise
versa.

N·m x 8.851 = in-lbs

N·m x

0.7376

0.2961

0.03937

1.0936

Km/h x

0.6214

= ft-lbs

= Inches Hg

= Inches

= Yards

= mph

COMMON METRIC EQUIVALENTS

1 inch = 25 Millimeters 1 Cubic Inch = 16 Cubic Centimeters
1 Foot = 0.3 Meter 1 Cubic Foot = 0.03 Cubic Meter
1 Yard = 0.9 Meter 1 Cubic Yard = 0.8 Cubic Meter
1 Mile = 1.6 Kilometers

Refer to the Metric Conversion Chart to convert

torque values listed in metric Newton- meters (N·m).

Also, use the chart to convert between millimeters
(mm) and inches (in.) (Fig. 6).

PT INTRODUCTION 7

METRIC SYSTEM (Continued)

Fig. 6 METRIC CONVERSION CHART

8 INTRODUCTION PT

TORQUE REFERENCES

DESCRIPTION

Individual Torque Charts appear within many or

the Groups. Refer to the Standard Torque Specifica-

tions Chart for torque references not listed in the
individual torque charts (Fig. 7).

Fig. 7 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

PT INTRODUCTION 9

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER

DESCRIPTION - VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located
on the upper left corner of the instrument panel,
near the left A-Pillar. The VIN consists of 17 charac­ters in a combination of letters and numbers that
provide specific information about the vehicle (Fig.

8). Refer to VIN Code Decoding Chart.

To protect the consumer from theft and possible
fraud the manufacturer is required to include a
Check Digit at the ninth position of the Vehicle Iden­tification Number. The check digit is used by the
manufacturer and government agencies to verify the
authenticity of the vehicle and official documenta­tion. The formula to use the check digit is not
released to the general public.

Fig. 8 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

LOCATION

1 - Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
2 - Instrument Panel

VIN CODE DECODING

POSITION INTERPRETATION CODE = DESCRIPTION

1 Country of Origin 1 = Built in United States by DiamlerChrysler

3 = Built in Mexico by DiamlerChrysler De Mexico

2 Make C = Chrysler
3 Vehicle Type
4 Other F = 1815 - 2267 KG (4000 - 5000 lbs.)

5 Line Y = Cruiser (LHD)

5 - Export Line

6 Series

6 - Export Transmission

7 Body Style 8 = Hatchback

8 Engine

8 - Export Engine

9 Check Digit See explanation in this section.

10 Model Year 3 = 2003
11 Assembly Plant

12 Though 17 Vehicle Build Sequence 6 digit number assigned by assembly plant.

4 = Multi-purpose Passenger Vehicle Less Side Air Bags
8 = Multi-purpose Passenger Vehicle with Side Air Bags

E = Cruiser (LHD)
Z = Cruiser (RHD)
4 = High Line
5 = Premium
6 = Sport
X = Special
B = 4-Speed Automatic
N = 5-Speed Manual

9 = 2.0L 4 Cyl. Gasoline DOHC (MPI)
B = 2.4 L 4 Cyl. 16 Valve Gasoline DOHC
G = 2.4 L 4 Cyl. 16 Valve Gasoline DOHC H.O.
F = 1.6L 4 Cyl. 16V Gasoline SOHC
9 = 2.0L 4 Cyl. Gasoline DOHC (MPI)
U = 2.2L 4 Cyl. Turbo Diesel Engine (MPI)

T = TolucaAssembly
U = Graz Assembly

10 INTRODUCTION PT

VEHICLE SAFETY
CERTIFICATION LABEL

DESCRIPTION

A vehicle safety certification label is attached to
the rear shutface of the driver’s door (Fig. 9). This
label indicates date of manufacture (month and
year), Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) front, Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) rear and the Vehicle Identification
Number (VIN). The Month, Day and Hour of manu­facture is also included.

All communications or inquiries regarding the
vehicle should include the Month-Day-Hour and
Vehicle Identification Number.

Fig. 10 E-MARK LABEL

1 - COUNTRY CODE
2 - REGULATION NUMBER
3 - APPROVAL NUMBER
4 - AMENDMENT NUMBER

Fig. 9 VEHICLE SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL -

TYPICAL

E-MARK LABEL

DESCRIPTION

An E-mark Label (Fig. 10) is located on the rear
shut face of the driver’s door. The label contains the
following information:

• Date of Manufacture

• Month-Day-Hour (MDH)

• Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

• Country Codes

• Regulation Number

• Regulation Amendment Number

• Approval Number

the label in the engine compartment. It cannot be
removed without defacing information and destroying
the label.

The label contains the vehicle’s emission specifica­tions and vacuum hose routings. All hoses must be
connected and routed according to the label.

MANUFACTURER PLATE

DESCRIPTION

The Manufacturer Plate (Fig. 11) is located in the
engine compartment on the passenger side rear cor­ner of the hood. The plate contains five lines of infor­mation:

1. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

2. Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM)

3. Gross Train Mass (GTM)

4. Gross Front Axle Rating (GFAR)

5. Gross Rear Axle Rating (GRAR)

VECI LABEL

DESCRIPTION

All models have a Vehicle Emission Control Infor-

mation (VECI) Label. Chrysler permanently attaches

Fig. 11 MANUFACTURER PLATE

PT LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 1

LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

DESCRIPTION ..........................1

FLUID TYPES

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION - ENGINE OIL AND

LUBRICANTS .........................1

DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLANT ........3

DESCRIPTION - TRANSMISSION FLUID .....3

DESCRIPTION - FUEL REQUIREMENTS .....3

FLUID CAPACITIES

SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES .......5

FLUID FILL/CHECK LOCATIONS

DESCRIPTION ..........................5

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

DESCRIPTION

DaimlerChrysler Corporation uses international
symbols to identify engine compartment lubricant
and fluid inspection and fill locations (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1 INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

FLUID TYPES

DESCRIPTION

LUBRICATION POINTS

DESCRIPTION ..........................5

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES

DESCRIPTION ..........................5

HOISTING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING .......14

JUMP STARTING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - JUMP

STARTING ...........................14

TOWING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOWING ........15

CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERN­MENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION
CENTER IN YOUR AREA.

When service is required, DaimlerChrysler Corpo­ration recommends that only Mopart brand parts,
lubricants and chemicals be used. Mopart provides
the best engineered products for servicing
DaimlerChrysler Corporation vehicles.

Only lubricants bearing designations defined by
the following organization should be used.

• Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)

• American Petroleum Institute (API)

• National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI)

API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED

Use an engine oil that is API Certified (GF-3).
MOPARt provides engine oils, meeting Material
Standard MS-6395, that meet or exceed this require­ment.

DESCRIPTION - ENGINE OIL AND LUBRICANTS

WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.

0 - 2 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE PT

FLUID TYPES (Continued)

SAE VISCOSITY

An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis­cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi­ple viscosities such as 5W-30 or 10W-30. These are
specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade which indi­cates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity range.
Select an engine oil that is best suited to your par­ticular temperature range and variation (Fig. 2).

• SAE 5W-30 engine oil is preferred. SAE 5W-30
engine oils improve low temperature starting and
helps vehicle fuel economy.

Fig. 2 TEMPERATURE/ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY

ENERGY CONSERVING OIL

An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for
gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON­SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con­tainer.

SYNTHETIC ENGINE OILS

There are a number of engine oils being promoted
as either synthetic or semi-synthetic. If you chose to
use such a product, use only those oils that meet the
American Petroleum Institute (API) and SAE viscos­ity standard. Follow the service schedule that
describes your driving type.

MATERIALS ADDED TO ENGINE OIL

The manufacturer does not recommend the addi­tion of any additive to the specified engine oil.

GEAR LUBRICANTS

SAE ratings also apply to multigrade gear lubri­cants. In addition, API classification defines the
lubricants usage. Such as API GL-5 and SAE 75W-

90.

LUBRICANTS AND GREASES

Lubricating grease is rated for quality and usage
by the NLGI. All approved products have the NLGI
symbol (Fig. 4) on the label. At the bottom NLGI
symbol is the usage and quality identification letters.
Wheel bearing lubricant is identified by the letter
“G”. Chassis lubricant is identified by the latter “L”.
The letter following the usage letter indicates the
quality of the lubricant. The following symbols indi­cate the highest quality.

CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION

Standard engine oil identification notations have
been adopted to aid in the proper selection of engine
oil. The identifying notations are located on the front
label of engine oil plastic bottles and the top of
engine oil cans (Fig. 3).

This symbol means that the oil has been certified
by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Diamler­Chrysler only recommends API Certified (GF-3)
engine oils that meet the requirements of Material
Standard MS-6395. Use Mopar or an equivalent oil
meeting the specification MS-6395.

Fig. 3 API SYMBOL

Fig. 4 NLGI SYMBOL

1 - WHEEL BEARINGS
2 - CHASSIS LUBRICATION
3 - CHASSIS AND WHEEL BEARINGS

SPECIALIZED LUBRICANTS AND OILS

Some maintenance or repair procedures may
require the use of specialized lubricants or oils. Con­sult the appropriate sections in this manual for the
correct application of these lubricants.

PT LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 3

FLUID TYPES (Continued)

DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLANT

WARNING: ANTIFREEZE IS AN ETHYLENE GLYCOL
BASE COOLANT AND IS HARMFUL IF SWAL­LOWED OR INHALED. IF SWALLOWED, DRINK
TWO GLASSES OF WATER AND INDUCE VOMIT­ING. IF INHALED, MOVE TO FRESH AIR AREA.
SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT
STORE IN OPEN OR UNMARKED CONTAINERS.
WASH SKIN AND CLOTHING THOROUGHLY AFTER
COMING IN CONTACT WITH ETHYLENE GLYCOL.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. DISPOSE OF
GLYCOL BASE COOLANT PROPERLY, CONTACT
YOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR
LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER IN YOUR
AREA. DO NOT OPEN A COOLING SYSTEM WHEN
THE ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE OR
HOT UNDER PRESSURE, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT. AVOID RADIATOR COOLING FAN WHEN
ENGINE COMPARTMENT RELATED SERVICE IS
PERFORMED, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.

CAUTION: Use of Propylene Glycol based coolants
is not recommended, as they provide less freeze
protection and less boiling protection.

The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and
engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the
radiator where the tube/fin radiator can transfer the
heat to the air.

The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Mopart Antifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equiva­lent ethylene glycol base coolant with hybrid organic
corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled
water to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it
loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush,
and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solu­tion.

The green coolant MUST NOT BE MIXED with
the orange or magenta coolants. When replacing cool­ant the complete system flush must be performed
before using the replacement coolant.

emergency, it should be replaced with the specified
coolant as soon as possible.

DESCRIPTION - TRANSMISSION FLUID

NOTE: Refer to the maintenance schedules in the
Owner’s Manual for the recommended maintenance
(fluid/filter change) intervals for this transaxle.

NOTE: All transaxles have a common transmission
and differential sump. Filling the transaxle accom­modates the differential as well.

TRANSMISSION FLUID

Mopart ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid­Type 9602) is required in the 41TE automatic. Sub­stitute fluids can induce torque converter clutch
shudder.

Mopart ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid­Type 9602) when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed
red so it can be identified from other fluids used in
the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red
color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid
condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin
to look darker in color and may eventually become
brown. This is normal. A dark brown/black fluid
accompanied with a burnt odor and/or deterioration
in shift quality may indicate fluid deterioration or
transmission component failure.

G288 and T350 Manual transaxles require the use
of Mopart ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid)

FLUID ADDITIVES

DaimlerChrysler strongly recommends against the
addition of any fluids to the transmission, other than
those automatic transmission fluids listed above.
Exceptions to this policy are the use of special dyes
to aid in detecting fluid leaks.

Various “special” additives and supplements exist
that claim to improve shift feel and/or quality. These
additives and others also claim to improve converter
clutch operation and inhibit overheating, oxidation,
varnish, and sludge. These claims have not been sup­ported to the satisfaction of DaimlerChrysler and
these additives must not be used. The use of trans­mission “sealers” should also be avoided, since they
may adversely affect the integrity of transmission
seals.

CAUTION: MoparT Antifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be
mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Doing so
will reduce the corrosion protection and may result
in premature water pump seal failure. If non-HOAT
coolant is introduced into the cooling system in an

DESCRIPTION - FUEL REQUIREMENTS

Your engine is designed to meet all emissions reg­ulations and provide excellent fuel economy and per­formance when using high quality unleaded gasoline
having an octane rating of 87. The use of premium
gasoline is not recommended. The use of premium

0 - 4 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE PT

FLUID TYPES (Continued)

gasoline will provide no benefit over high quality reg­ular gasoline, and in some circumstances may result
in poorer performance.

Light spark knock at low engine speeds is not
harmful to your engine. However, continued heavy
spark knock at high speeds can cause damage and
immediate service is required. Engine damage result­ing from operation with a heavy spark knock may
not be covered by the new vehicle warranty.

Poor quality gasoline can cause problems such as
hard starting, stalling and hesitations. If you experi­ence these symptoms, try another brand of gasoline
before considering service for the vehicle.

Over 40 auto manufacturers world-wide have
issued and endorsed consistent gasoline specifications
(the Worldwide Fuel Charter, WWFC) to define fuel
properties necessary to deliver enhanced emissions,
performance and durability for your vehicle. We rec­ommend the use of gasolines that meet the WWFC
specifications if they are available.

REFORMULATED GASOLINE

Many areas of the country require the use of
cleaner burning gasoline referred to as “reformulat­ed” gasoline. Reformulated gasoline contain oxygen­ates, and are specifically blended to reduce vehicle
emissions and improve air quality.

We strongly support the use of reformulated gaso­line. Properly blended reformulated gasoline will pro­vide excellent performance and durability for the
engine and fuel system components.

GASOLINE/OXYGENATE BLENDS

Some fuel suppliers blend unleaded gasoline with
oxygenates such as 10% ethanol, MTBE, and ETBE.
Oxygenates are required in some areas of the country
during the winter months to reduce carbon monoxide
emissions. Fuels blended with these oxygenates may
be used in your vehicle.

line retailer whether or not his/her gasoline contains
MMT.

It is even more important to look for gasoline with­out MMT in Canada because MMT can be used at
levels higher than allowed in the United States.
MMT is prohibited in Federal and California refor­mulated gasoline.

SULFUR IN GASOLINE

If you live in the northeast United States, your
vehicle may have been designed to meet California
low emission standards with Cleaner-Burning Cali­fornia reformulated gasoline with low sulfur. If such
fuels are not available in states adopting California
emission standards, your vehicles will operate satis­factorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but
emission control system performance may be
adversely affected. Gasoline sold outside of California
is permitted to have higher sulfur levels which may
affect the performance of the vehicle’s catalytic con­verter. This may cause the Malfunction Indicator
Lamp (MIL), Check Engine or Service Engine Soon
light to illuminate. We recommend that you try a dif­ferent brand of unleaded gasoline having lower sulfur
to determine if the problem is fuel related prior to
returning your vehicle to an authorized dealer for
service.

CAUTION: If the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL),
Check Engine or Service Engine Soon light is flash­ing, immediate service is required; see on-board
diagnostics system section.

MATERIALS ADDED TO FUEL

All gasoline sold in the United States and Canada
are required to contain effective detergent additives.
Use of additional detergents or other additives is not
needed under normal conditions.

CAUTION: DO NOT use gasoline containing METH­ANOL. Gasoline containing methanol may damage
critical fuel system components.

MMT IN GASOLINE

MMT is a manganese-containing metallic additive
that is blended into some gasoline to increase octane.
Gasoline blended with MMT provide no performance
advantage beyond gasoline of the same octane num­ber without MMT. Gasoline blended with MMT
reduce spark plug life and reduce emission system
performance in some vehicles. We recommend that
gasoline free of MMT be used in your vehicle. The
MMT content of gasoline may not be indicated on the
gasoline pump; therefore, you should ask your gaso-

FUEL SYSTEM CAUTIONS

CAUTION: Follow these guidelines to maintain your
vehicle’s performance:

• The use of leaded gas is prohibited by Federal
law. Using leaded gasoline can impair engine perfor­mance, damage the emission control system, and
could result in loss of warranty coverage.

• An out-of-tune engine, or certain fuel or ignition
malfunctions, can cause the catalytic converter to
overheat. If you notice a pungent burning odor or
some light smoke, your engine may be out of tune or
malfunctioning and may require immediate service.
Contact your dealer for service assistance.

• When pulling a heavy load or driving a fully
loaded vehicle when the humidity is low and the tem-

PT LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 5

FLUID TYPES (Continued)

perature is high, use a premium unleaded fuel to
help prevent spark knock. If spark knock persists,
lighten the load, or engine piston damage may result.

• The use of fuel additives which are now being
sold as octane enhancers is not recommended. Most
of these products contain high concentrations of
methanol. Fuel system damage or vehicle perfor­mance problems resulting from the use of such fuels
or additives is not the responsibility of
DaimlerChrysler Corporation and may not be covered
under the new vehicle warranty.

NOTE: Intentional tampering with emissions control
systems can result in civil penalties being assessed
against you.

FLUID CAPACITIES

SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION

Fuel Tank 57L (15 gal.)
Engine Oil* - 1.6L 4.3L (4.5 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 2.0L 4.3L (4.5 qts.)

Engine Oil* - 2.2L Diesel 7.0L (7.4 qts.)

Engine Oil* - 2.4L 4.8L (5.0 qts.)

Cooling System** - 1.6L,

2.0L, and 2.4L

Cooling System** - 2.2L

Diesel

Automatic Transaxle ­Estimated Service Fill

Automatic Transaxle ­Overhaul Fill Capacity
with Torque Converter

Empty

Manual Transaxle - NV

T350

Manual Transaxle -

Getrag 288

*(includes new filter)
**(Includes heater and coolant recovery bottle filled to

MAX level.)

6.2L (6.5 qts.)

9.0L (9.5 qts.)

3.8L (4.0 qts.)

8.1L (8.6 qts.)

2.4 - 2.7L (2.5 - 2.8 qts.)

2.2L Turbo Diesel: 2.0L
(2.1 qts.)

2.4L Turbo: 1.8L (1.9
qts.)

FLUID FILL/CHECK
LOCATIONS

DESCRIPTION

The fluid check/fill point locations are located in

each applicable service manual section.

LUBRICATION POINTS

DESCRIPTION

Lubrication point locations are located in each

applicable Sections.

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES

DESCRIPTION

Maintenance Schedule Information not included in
this section, is located in the appropriate Owner’s
Manual.

There are three maintenance schedules that show
required service for your vehicle.

First is Schedule “B”—ALL ENGINES.Itisfor
vehicles that are operated under the conditions that
are listed below and at the beginning of the schedule.

• Day or night temperatures are below 0° C

(32° F).

• Stop and go driving.

• Extensive engine idling.

• Driving in dusty conditions.

• Short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles).

• More than 50% of your driving is at sustained

high speeds during hot weather, above 32° C
(90° F).†

• Trailer towing.†L

• Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-

vice).†L

• Off-road or desert operation.

• If equipped for and operating with E-85

(ethanol) fuel.

NOTE: Most vehicles are operated under the condi­tions listed for Schedule (B(.

Second is Schedule “A”—NON TURBO
CHARGED ENGINES. It is for vehicles that are not

operated under any of the conditions listed under
Schedule 9B9—ALL ENGINES.

Second is Schedule “A”—TURBO CHARGED
ENGINES. It is for vehicles that are not operated
under any of the conditions listed under Schedule
9B9—ALL ENGINES.

Use the schedule that best describes your driving
conditions. Where time and mileage are listed, follow
the interval that occurs first.

0 - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE PT

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

CAUTION: Failure to perform the required mainte­nance items may result in damage to the vehicle.

At Each Stop for Fuel

• Check the engine oil level about 5 minutes after
a fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil
level while the vehicle is on level ground will
improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil
only when the level is at or below the ADD or MIN
mark.

• Check the windshield washer solvent and add if
required.

Once a Month

• Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear
or damage.

• Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the
terminals as required.

• Check the fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake
master cylinder, power steering and transaxle and
add as needed.

• Check all lights and all other electrical items for
correct operation.

• Check rubber seals on each side of the radiator
for proper fit.

At Each Oil Change

• Change the engine oil filter.

• Inspect the exhaust system.

• Inspect the brake hoses.

• Inspect the CV joints and front suspension com-

ponents.

• Check the automatic transaxle fluid level.

• Check the manual transaxle fluid level and fill

plug condition.

• Check the coolant level, hoses, and clamps.

• Rotate the tires at each oil change interval

shown on Schedule “A”—NON TURBO CHARGED
ENGINES 10 000 km (6,000 miles), Schedule “A”—
TURBO CHARGED ENGINES 8 000 km (5,000
miles), or every other interval shown on Schedule
“B”—ALL ENGINES 10 000 km (6,000 miles).

SCHEDULE “B”—ALL ENGINES

Follow schedule “B”—All Engines if you usually
operate your vehicle under one or more of the follow­ing conditions. Change the automatic transmission
fluid and filter every 77 000 km (48,000 miles) if the
vehicle is usually operated under one or more of the
conditions marked with an L.

Change the manual transaxle fluid every 77 000
km (48,000 miles) if the vehicle is usually operated
under one or more of the conditions marked with an
†.

• Day or night temperatures are below 0° C

(32° F).

• Stop and go driving.

• Extensive engine idling.

• Driving in dusty conditions.

• Short trips of less than 16.2 km (10 miles).

• More than 50% of your driving is at sustained

high speeds during hot weather, above 32° C
(90° F).†

• Trailer towing.†L

• Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-

vice).†L

• Off-road or desert operation.

• If equipped for and operating with E-85

(ethanol) fuel.

Miles 3,000 6,000 9,000 12,000 15,000 18,000
(Kilometers) (5 000) (10 000) (14 000) (19 000) (24 000) (29 000)

Change engine oil and
engine oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X
Inspect the engine air

cleaner filter.Replace as
necessary.*

Inspect the PCV make-up air
filter. Replace as necessary.

Inspect the generator belt,
and replace as necessary.

Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension.

XXXXX X

X

X

X

X

PT LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 7

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Miles 21,000 24,000 27,000 30,000 33,000 36,000
(Kilometers) (34 000) (38 000) (43 000) (48 000) (53 000) (58 000)

Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X X
Replace the engine air

cleaner filter.

Replace the spark plugs. X
Inspect the tie rod ends and

boot seals.
Inspect the PCV valve and

replace as necessary.*

Replace the PCV make-up
air filter.

Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension.

Inspect the generator belt,
and replace as necessary.

XXXXXX

X

X

X

X

X

X

Miles 39,000 42,000 45,000 48,000 51,000 54,000
(Kilometers) (62 000) (67 000) (72 000) (77 000) (82 000) (86 000)

Change engine oil and
engine oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X
Change the brake fluid. If

vehicle is used for trailer
towing.

Inspect the engine air

cleaner filter. Replace as
necessary.*

Change the automatic
transaxle fluid and filter.

Change the manual transaxle
fluid.

Inspect the PCV make-up air

filter. Replace as necessary.

Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension.

Inspect the generator belt,
and replace as necessary.

X X XXXX

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

0 - 8 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE PT

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Miles 57,000 60,000 63,000 66,000 69,000 72,000
(Kilometers) (91 000) (96 000) (101 000) (106 000) (110 000) (115 000)

Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X X
Replace the engine air

cleaner filter.
Replace the spark plugs and

ignition cables.

Inspect the tie rod ends and
boot seals.

Inspect the PCV valve and

replace if necessary. Not
required if previously
changed. * ‡

Inspect the PCV make-up air
filter. Replace as necessary.

Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension.

Inspect the generator belt,
and replace as necessary.

XXXXXX

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Miles 75,000 78,000 81,000 84,000 87,000 90,000
(Kilometers) (120 000) (125 000) (130 000) (134 000) (139 000) (144 000)

Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X
Inspect the engine air

cleaner filter and replace as
necessary.*

Replace the engine air
cleaner filter.

Replace the spark plugs. X
Inspect the tie rod ends and

boot seals.
Inspect the PCV valve and

replace if necessary. Not
required if previously
changed. * ‡

Replace the engine timing
belt.*

Inspect the PCV make-up air
filter. Replace as necessary.

Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension.

Inspect the generator belt,
and replace as necessary.

XXXXXX

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

PT LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 9

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Miles 93,000 96,000 99,000 100,000 102,000 105,000
(Kilometers) (149 000) (154 000) (158 000) (160 000) (163 000) (168 000)

Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X
Change the brake fluid. If

vehicle is used for trailer
towing.

Inspect the engine air

cleaner filter and replace as
necessary.*

Change the automatic
transaxle fluid and filter.

Change the manual transaxle
fluid.

Flush and replace the engine
coolant at 60 months or
100,000 miles.

Inspect the PCV make-up air

filter. Replace as necessary.

Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension.

Inspect the generator belt,
and replace as necessary.

XXX XX

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

* This maintenance is recommended by the manu­facturer to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.

‡ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.

Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.

0 - 10 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE PT

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

SCHEDULE “A”—NON TURBO CHARGED ENGINES

Miles 6,000 12,000 18,000 24,000 30,000 36,000
(Kilometers) (10 000) (19 000) (29 000) (38 000) (48 000) (58 000)
[Months] [6] [12] [18] [24] [30] [36]

Change engine oil and
engine oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X X
Replace the engine air

cleaner filter.

Replace the spark plugs.
Inspect the tie rod ends and

boot seals.
Replace the PCV make-up

air filter.

Adjust generator drive belt
tension

XXXXX X

X

X
X

X

X

Miles 42,000 48,000 54,000 60,000 66,000
(Kilometers) (67 000) (77 000) (86 000) (96 000) (106 000)
[Months] [42] [48] [54] [60] [66]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXX
Inspect the brake linings. X

Replace the engine air cleaner filter.
Replace the spark plugs and ignition

cables.

Inspect the tie rod ends and boot seals. X
Inspect the PCV valve

and replace, if

X
X

X

necessary.*

Flush and replace the engine coolant at 60
months, regardless of mileage.

Replace the PCV make-up air filter.
Adjust generator drive belt tension. X

X

X

PT LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 11

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Miles 72,000 78,000 84,000 90,000 96,000 102,000
(Kilometers) (115 000) (125 000) (134 000) (144 000) (154 000) (163 000)
[Months] [72] [78] [84] [90] [96] [102]

Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X X
Replace the engine air

cleaner filter.

Replace the spark plugs.
Inspect the tie rod ends and

boot seals.
Inspect the PCV valve

and
replace if necessary. Not
required if previously

XXXXX

X
X
X

X

changed. * ‡

Replace the PCV make-up
air filter.

Replace power steering belt if
necessary.

Adjust or replace, if
necessary, generator drive
belt.

Flush and replace the engine
coolant if not done at 60
months.

Replace engine timing belt.

X

X

X

X

X

* This maintenance is recommended by the manu­facturer to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.

‡ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.

Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.

0 - 12 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE PT

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

SCHEDULE “A”—2.4L TURBO CHARGED ENGINES

Miles 5,000 10,000 15,000 20,000 25,000 30,000
(Kilometers) (8 000) (16 000) (24 000) (32 000) (40 000) (48 000)
[Months] [6] [12] [18] [24]

Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X
Replace the engine air

cleaner filter.

Replace the spark plugs. X
Inspect the tie rod ends and

boot seals.
Replace the PCV make-up

air filter.

Adjust the generator drive belt
tension.

XXXXXX

X

X

X

X

Miles 35,000 40,000 45,000 50,000 55,000
(Kilometers) (56 000) (64 000) (72 000) (80 000) (88 000)
[Months] [30] [36] [42]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXX
Inspect the brake linings. X

Miles 60,000 65,000 70,000 75,000 80,000 85,000
(Kilometers) (96 000) (104 000) (112 000) (120 000) (128 000) (136 000)
[Months] [48] [54] [60] [66]

Change engine oil and engine oil
filter.

Inspect the brake linings. X X
Replace the engine air cleaner

filter.
Replace the spark plugs and

ignition cables.

Inspect the tie rod ends and boot
seals.

Inspect the PCV valve and replace if

necessary. Not required if
previously changed. * ‡

Flush and replace the engine coolant
at 60 months, regardless of mileage.

Replace the PCV make-up air filter. X
Adjust generator drive belt tension. X

XX

X

X

X

X

X

XXX

X

PT LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 13

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Miles 90,000 95,000 100,000 105,000
(Kilometers) (144 000) (156 000) (160 000) (168 000)
[Months] [72] [78] [84]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X X X
Inspect the brake linings. X
Replace the engine air cleaner filter. X
Replace the spark plugs. X
Inspect engine accessory drive belts, replace if

necessary. Adjust the generator drive belt tension if not
replacing belt.

Inspect the tie rod ends and boot seals. X
Inspect the PCV valve and replace if necessary. Not

required if previously changed. * ‡

Flush and replace the engine coolant if not done at 60
months.

Replace the PCV make-up air filter. X
Replace the engine timing belt. X

X

X

X

* This maintenance is recommended by the manu­facturer to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.

‡ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.

Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.

WARNING: You can be badly injured working on or
around a motor vehicle. Do only that service work
for which you have the knowledge and the right
equipment. If you have any doubt about your ability
to perform a service job, take your vehicle to a
competent mechanic.

0 - 14 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE PT

HOISTING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING

Refer to Owner’s Manual provided with vehicle for
proper emergency jacking procedures.

WARNING: THE HOISTING AND JACK LIFTING
POINTS PROVIDED ARE FOR A COMPLETE VEHI­CLE. WHEN THE ENGINE OR REAR SUSPENSION
IS REMOVED FROM A VEHICLE, THE CENTER OF
GRAVITY IS ALTERED MAKING SOME HOISTING
CONDITIONS UNSTABLE. PROPERLY SUPPORT OR
SECURE VEHICLE TO HOISTING DEVICE WHEN
THESE CONDITIONS EXIST.

CAUTION: Do not position hoisting device on sus­pension components, damage to vehicle can result.
Do not attempt to raise one entire side of the vehi­cle by placing a floor jack midway between the
front and rear wheels. This practice may result in
permanent damage to the body.

When properly positioned, a floor jack can be used
to lift the vehicle and support the raised vehicle with
jack stands (Fig. 5).

A floor jack or any lifting device, must never be
used on any part of the underbody other then the
described areas.

JUMP STARTING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - JUMP STARTING

WARNING: REVIEW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
AND WARNINGS IN BATTERY/STARTING/CHARG­ING SECTIONS. DO NOT JUMP START A FROZEN
BATTERY, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT. DO
NOT JUMP START WHEN MAINTENANCE FREE
BATTERY INDICATOR DOT IS YELLOW OR BRIGHT
COLOR. DO NOT JUMP START A VEHICLE WHEN
THE BATTERY FLUID IS BELOW THE TOP OF LEAD
PLATES. DO NOT ALLOW JUMPER CABLE
CLAMPS TO TOUCH EACH OTHER WHEN CON­NECTED TO A BOOSTER SOURCE. DO NOT USE
OPEN FLAME NEAR BATTERY. REMOVE METALLIC
JEWELRY WORN ON HANDS OR WRISTS TO AVOID
INJURY BY ACCIDENTAL ARCING OF BATTERY
CURRENT. WHEN USING A HIGH OUTPUT BOOST­ING DEVICE, DO NOT ALLOW BATTERY VOLTAGE
TO EXCEED 16 VOLTS. REFER TO INSTRUCTIONS
PROVIDED WITH DEVICE BEING USED.

CAUTION: When using another vehicle as a
booster, do not allow vehicles to touch. Electrical
systems can be damaged on either vehicle.

TO JUMP START A DISABLED VEHICLE:

(1) Raise hood on disabled vehicle and visually

inspect engine compartment for:

• Battery cable clamp condition, clean if necessary.

• Frozen battery.

• Yellow or bright color test indicator, if equipped.

• Low battery fluid level.

• Generator drive belt condition and tension.

• Fuel fumes or leakage, correct if necessary.

Fig. 5 Hoisting and Jacking Points

1 - DRIVE ON LIFT
2 - FRAME CONTACT LIFT (SINGLE POST)
2 - CHASSIS LIFT (DUAL POST)
2 - OUTBOARD LIFT (DUAL LIFT)
2 - FLOOR JACK

CAUTION: If the cause of starting problem on dis­abled vehicle is severe, damage to booster vehicle
charging system can result.

(2) When using another vehicle as a booster
source, park the booster vehicle within cable reach.
Turn off all accessories, set the parking brake, place
the automatic transmission in PARK or the manual
transmission in NEUTRAL and turn the ignition
OFF.

(3) On disabled vehicle, place gear selector in park
or neutral and set park brake. Turn off all accesso­ries.

(4) Connect jumper cables to booster battery. RED
clamp to positive terminal (+) or remote terminal.
BLACK clamp to negative terminal (-). DO NOT
allow clamps at opposite end of cables to touch, elec-

PT LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 15

JUMP STARTING (Continued)

trical arc will result. Review all warnings in this pro­cedure.

(5) On disabled vehicle connect RED jumper cable
clamp to positive (+) remote terminal. Connect
BLACK jumper cable clamp to engine ground as
close to the ground cable attaching point as possible
(Fig. 6).

(a) Pull the protective sleeve from the remote

positive terminal.

(b) Connect RED jumper cable clamp to positive
(+) remote terminal. Connect BLACK jumper cable
clamp to engine ground as close to the ground
cable attaching point as possible (Fig. 6).
(6) Start the engine in the vehicle which has the

booster battery, let the engine idle a few minutes,
then start the engine in the vehicle with the dis­charged battery.

TOWING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOWING

WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW TOWING ATTACHMENT
DEVICES TO CONTACT THE FUEL TANK OR LINES,
FUEL LEAK CAN RESULT. DO NOT LIFT OR TOW
VEHICLE BY FRONT OR REAR BUMPER, OR
BUMPER ENERGY ABSORBER UNITS. DO NOT
VENTURE UNDER A LIFTED VEHICLE IF NOT SUP­PORTED PROPERLY ON SAFETY STANDS. DO NOT
ALLOW PASSENGERS TO RIDE IN A TOWED VEHI­CLE. USE A SAFETY CHAIN THAT IS INDEPENDENT
FROM THE TOWING ATTACHMENT DEVICE.

CAUTION: Do not damage brake lines, exhaust sys­tem, shock absorbers, sway bars, or any other
under vehicle components when attaching towing
device to vehicle. Do not attach towing device to
front or rear suspension components. Do not
secure vehicle to towing device by the use of front
or rear suspension or steering components.
Remove or secure loose or protruding objects from
a damaged vehicle before towing. Refer to state and
local rules and regulations before towing a vehicle.
Do not allow weight of towed vehicle to bear on
lower fascia, air dams, or spoilers.

Fig. 6 POSITIVE JUMPER CABLE CLAMP

CONNECTION

1 - BATTERY POSITIVE REMOTE TERMINAL

CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled
vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter will over­heat and could fail.

(7) Allow battery in disabled vehicle to charge to

at least 12.4 volts (75% charge) before attempting to
start engine. If engine does not start within 15 sec­onds, stop cranking engine and allow starter to cool
(15 minutes), before cranking again.

DISCONNECT CABLE CLAMPS AS FOLLOWS:

• Disconnect BLACK cable clamp from engine

ground on disabled vehicle.

• Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery posi-

tive remote terminal.

To avoid damage to bumper fascia and air dams
use of a wheel lift or flat bed towing device (Fig. 7) is
recommended. When using a wheel lift towing device,
be sure the unlifted end of disabled vehicle has at
least 100 mm (4 in.) ground clearance. If minimum
ground clearance cannot be reached, use a towing
dolly. If a flat bed device is used, the approach angle
should not exceed 15 degrees.

Fig. 7 Recommended Towing Devices

1 - WHEEL LIFT
2 - FLAT BED

PT SUSPENSION 2 - 1

SUSPENSION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

FRONT SUSPENSION .....................1

REAR SUSPENSION ......................26

FRONT SUSPENSION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

FRONT SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION - FRONT SUSPENSION .......2

OPERATION - FRONT SUSPENSION .........2

WARNING

WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS ..............2

STANDARD PROCEDURE - LUBRICATION ....2

SPECIFICATIONS

FRONT SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE . . 4
SPECIAL TOOLS

FRONT SUSPENSION ...................4

HUB / BEARING

DESCRIPTION ..........................6

OPERATION ............................6

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WHEEL

BEARING AND HUB ....................6

REMOVAL .............................6

INSTALLATION ..........................6

KNUCKLE

DESCRIPTION - STEERING KNUCKLE .......6

OPERATION - STEERING KNUCKLE .........6

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STEERING

KNUCKLE ............................6

REMOVAL - STEERING KNUCKLE ...........6

DISASSEMBLY - STEERING KNUCKLE

(WHEEL BEARING AND HUB) .............8

ASSEMBLY - STEERING KNUCKLE (WHEEL

BEARING AND HUB) ...................10

INSTALLATION - STEERING KNUCKLE ......11

LOWER BALL JOINT

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BALL JOINT .....12

LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT

REMOVAL .............................12

INSTALLATION .........................12

WHEEL ALIGNMENT .....................52

LOWER CONTROL ARM

DESCRIPTION .........................13

OPERATION ...........................13

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER

CONTROL ARM .......................13

REMOVAL - LOWER CONTROL ARM ........13

DISASSEMBLY

DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(BALL JOINT).........................15

DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(REAR ISOLATOR BUSHING) ............15

ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM (BALL

JOINT)..............................16

ASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(REAR ISOLATOR BUSHING) ............17

INSTALLATION - LOWER CONTROL ARM ....17

STABILIZER BAR

DESCRIPTION .........................19

OPERATION ...........................19

REMOVAL .............................19

INSPECTION ..........................19

INSTALLATION .........................19

STRUT ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION .........................20

OPERATION ...........................20

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT

ASSEMBLY (FRONT) ...................20

REMOVAL .............................20

DISASSEMBLY .........................21

ASSEMBLY ............................24

INSTALLATION .........................24

2 - 2 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

FRONT SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION - FRONT SUSPENSION

This vehicle has a gas pressurized MacPherson

strut type front suspension design (Fig. 1).

The front suspension consists of these major com-

ponents:

• Hub (pressed into bearing)

• Bearing (pressed into steering knuckle)

• Lower control arm (2)

• Stabilizer bar

• Steering knuckle (2)

• Strut assembly (2)

Refer to individual components for additional infor-

mation.

OPERATION - FRONT SUSPENSION

The front suspension allows each front wheel on a
vehicle to adapt to different road surfaces and condi­tions without greatly affecting the opposite wheel
and the ability to control the vehicle. Each side of the
front suspension is allowed to pivot so the vehicle can
be steered in the direction preferred.

When a vehicle strikes a bump, the force is trans­ferred through the hub, bearing, and knuckle, into
the strut assembly to absorb the force and dampen it.
During steering maneuvers, the strut assembly
(through a pivot bearing in the upper strut mount)
and steering knuckle (through the lower ball joint
mounted on the lower control arm) turn as an assem­bly.

WARNING

WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS

WARNING: DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON
BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CON­TAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR
AFTERMARKET LININGS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE
CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN
CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM. EXERCISE CARE
WHEN SERVICING BRAKE PARTS. DO NOT SAND,
OR GRIND BRAKE LINING UNLESS EQUIPMENT
USED IS DESIGNED TO CONTAIN THE DUST RESI­DUE. DO NOT CLEAN BRAKE PARTS WITH COM­PRESSED AIR OR BY DRY BRUSHING. CLEANING
SHOULD BE DONE BY DAMPENING THE BRAKE
COMPONENTS WITH A FINE MIST OF WATER,
THEN WIPING THE BRAKE COMPONENTS CLEAN
WITH A DAMPENED CLOTH. DISPOSE OF CLOTH
AND ALL RESIDUE CONTAINING ASBESTOS
FIBERS IN AN IMPERMEABLE CONTAINER WITH
THE APPROPRIATE LABEL. FOLLOW PRACTICES
PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY

AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA)
FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND DISPOSI­TION OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY CONTAIN
ASBESTOS FIBERS.

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT SHAFT
NUT WHILE STRUT ASSEMBLY IS INSTALLED IN
VEHICLE, OR BEFORE THE COIL SPRING IS COM­PRESSED WITH A COMPRESSION TOOL. THE
SPRING IS HELD UNDER HIGH PRESSURE.

CAUTION: Only frame contact hoisting equipment
can be used on this vehicle. It cannot be hoisted
using equipment designed to lift a vehicle by the
rear axle. If this type of hoisting equipment is used,
damage to rear suspension components will occur.

CAUTION: At no time when servicing a vehicle can
a sheet metal screw, bolt, or other metal fastener be
installed in the shock tower to take the place of an
original plastic clip. It may come into contact with
the strut or coil spring.

CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after
loosening the hub nut, the vehicle is rolled on the
ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be
supported by the tires for a length of time.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - LUBRICATION

There are no serviceable lubrication points on the
front suspension. The front lower ball joints have
grease fittings which have had the head snapped off
by the manufacturer after they have been filled. This
has been done to eliminate the possibility of damag­ing the non-vented seals. Grease will not leak from
the broken grease fittings. The ball joints are sealed
for life and require no maintenance.

CAUTION: No attempt should be made to replace
the ball joint grease fitting with a new fitting, then
filling the ball joint with grease. Damage to the
grease seal can result.

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 3

FRONT SUSPENSION (Continued)

Fig. 1 Front Suspension System

2 - 4 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

FRONT SUSPENSION (Continued)

1 - UPPER MOUNT
2 - VEHICLE STRUT TOWER
3 - OUTER TIE ROD
4 - JAM NUT
5 - STEERING GEAR
6 - CROSSMEMBER
7 - STABILIZER BAR
8 - STABILIZER BAR CUSHION AND RETAINER
9 - BALL JOINT
10 - STABILIZER BAR LINK

SPECIFICATIONS

FRONT SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m

Ball Joint Stud Pinch Bolt 95 70 —
Hub Nut 244 180 —
Disc Brake Caliper Adapter

Knuckle Bolts
Lower Control Arm Front

Pivot Bolt
Lower Control Arm Rear

Pivot Bolt
Stabilizer Bar Cushion

Retainer Bolts

104 77 —

170 125 —

250 185 —

28 21 250

Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 28 21 250
Strut Clevis-to-Knuckle Nuts 54 +

90°

turn
Strut Shaft Nut 75 55 —
Strut-to-Tower Nuts 34 25 —
Tie Rod Adjuster Jam Nut 75 55 —
Tie Rod End-to-Knuckle Nut 54 40 —
Wheel Bearing Retainer

Plate Bolts

28 21 250

Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100 —

Ft.

Lbs.

40 +

90°

turn

Lbs.

11 - HUB
12 - KNUCKLE
13 - STRUT
14 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
15 - COIL SPRING
16 - JOUNCE BUMPER
17 - DUST SHIELD
18 - SPRING SEATAND BEARING
19 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
20 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

In.

Installer, Bearing 5052

Remover/Installer 6644 (-2)

—

Installer 6758

SPECIAL TOOLS

FRONT SUSPENSION

Splitter, Bearing 1130

Installer 6760

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 5

FRONT SUSPENSION (Continued)

Remover 6804

Remover C-4150A

Socket/Wrench Strut Nut 6864

Remover/Installer 6908 (–2)

Press, Ball Joint C-4212F

Installer Adapter C-4698-2

Remover MB-990799

Remover/Installer 8373

Remover MB991113

2 - 6 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

HUB / BEARING

DESCRIPTION

The wheel bearing and hub are pressed into the
steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/KNUCKLE - DESCRIPTION)

OPERATION

The wheel bearing and hub are pressed into the
steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/KNUCKLE - OPERATION)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WHEEL BEARING
AND HUB

The wheel bearing is designed for the life of the
vehicle and requires no type of periodic maintenance.
The following procedure may be used for diagnosing
the condition of the wheel bearing and hub.

With the wheel, disc brake caliper, and brake rotor
removed, rotate the wheel hub. Any roughness or
resistance to rotation may indicate dirt intrusion or a
failed hub bearing. If the bearing exhibits any of
these conditions during diagnosis, the hub bearing
will require replacement. Do not attempt to disas­semble the bearing for repair. If the wheel bearing is
disassembled for any reason, it must be replaced.

Damaged bearing seals and the resulting excessive
grease loss may also require bearing replacement.
Moderate grease weapage from the bearing is consid­ered normal and should not require replacement of
the wheel bearing.

To diagnose a bent hub, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY­DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the procedure on measuring hub
runout.

REMOVAL

The wheel bearing and hub are pressed into the
knuckle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/
KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)

INSTALLATION

The wheel bearing and hub are pressed into the
knuckle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/
KNUCKLE - INSTALLATION)

KNUCKLE

DESCRIPTION - STEERING KNUCKLE

The steering knuckle is a single casting with legs
machined for attachment to the front strut assembly
on the top, lower control arm ball joint on the bot­tom, and steering linkage on the trailing end (Fig. 1).
The steering knuckle also has two machined, drilled

and tapped legs on the leading end casting to support
and align the front disc brake caliper adapter.

The knuckle supports the wheel bearing and hub
(Fig. 1). The wheel hub is pressed into a sealed-for­life wheel bearing that is pressed into the steering
knuckle. A retainer plate also holds the bearing in
place. The hub supports the driveshaft outer constant
velocity (C/V) joint. Each is splined and meshes in
the center of the hub. The outer C/V joint is retained
to the hub using a nut. The nut is locked to the outer
C/V stub shaft using a nut retainer and cotter pin.

The wheel bearing is a Unit 1 type cartridge bear­ing that requires no maintenance. The wheel bearing
can be serviced separately from the hub.

The hub has five studs pressed into its flange.

OPERATION - STEERING KNUCKLE

The steering knuckle pivots with the strut assem­bly between the lower ball joint and the pivot bearing
in the strut assembly. The steering gear outer tie rod
end connects to the trailing end of each knuckle,
allowing the vehicle to be steered.

The center of the knuckle supports the hub, wheel
bearing and axle shaft.

The hub and wheel bearing work together. The
wheel bearing has internal bearings that allow the
hub to rotate with the driveshaft and the tire and
wheel assembly. The hub’s five studs mount the tire
and wheel to the vehicle.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STEERING
KNUCKLE

The front suspension steering knuckle is not a
repairable component of the front suspension. It
must be replaced if found to be damaged in any way.
If it is determined that the steering knuckle is bent
when servicing the vehicle, no attempt is to be made
to straighten the steering knuckle.

REMOVAL - STEERING KNUCKLE

NOTE: Before proceeding, review all Warnings and
Cautions. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT ­WARNING)

(1) Apply the brakes and hold in place.

(2) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(3) Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.

(4) Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring
washer from the hub nut (Fig. 2).

(5) While the brakes are applied, loosen and
remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft (Fig.

2).

(6) Release the brakes.

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 7

KNUCKLE (Continued)

Fig. 2 Hub Nut

1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER

1 - OUTER TIE ROD
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE

Fig. 4 Tie Rod Removal

(7) Remove the front disc brake caliper and
adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the
steering knuckle. Refer to BRAKE ROTOR in the
BRAKE section for the procedure.

(8) Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to
the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end
stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the
nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench (Fig.

3).

Fig. 3 Tie Rod Nut Removal/Installation

1 - OUTER TIE ROD
2 - STUD
3 - NUT

(9) Remove the tie rod end from the steering
knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113 (Fig.

4).

(10) Remove the tie rod heat shield.
(11) Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the

ball joint stud to the steering knuckle (Fig. 5).

Fig. 5 Ball Joint Bolt And Nut

1 - NUT
2 - BOLT
3 - BALL JOINT

CAUTION: The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the
steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap
the bolts out using a pin punch.

(12) Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to

the steering knuckle.

NOTE: Use caution when separating the ball joint
stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal
does not get cut.

2 - 8 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

KNUCKLE (Continued)

(13) Separate the ball joint stud from the steering
knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up
against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle
(Fig. 6).

Fig. 6 Separate Ball Joint From Knuckle

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2-PRYBAR
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT STUD

(1) Remove steering knuckle, hub, and wheel bear­ing as an assembly from the vehicle. (Refer to 2 ­SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)

(2) Three wheel studs across from one another
require removal from the hub flange. Rotate the hub
to align each wheel mounting stud with the notch in
the bearing retainer plate before removal. Using
Remover, Special Tool C–4150A (Fig. 7), press the
three wheel mounting studs out of the hub flange.
Remove the wheel mounting studs from the hub
through the open notch (Fig. 8).

NOTE: Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the
inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the
joint from separating during this operation.

(14) Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft
outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering
knuckle.

NOTE: The cartridge type front wheel bearing used
on this vehicle is not transferable to the replace­ment steering knuckle. If the replacement steering
knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new
bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle.
Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must
be done before installing the steering knuckle on
the vehicle.

(15) If the wheel bearing and hub need removal,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE ­DISASSEMBLY). Do not reuse the wheel bearing.

DISASSEMBLY - STEERING KNUCKLE (WHEEL
BEARING AND HUB)

NOTE: The removal and installation of the wheel
bearing and hub from the steering knuckle is only
to be done with the steering knuckle removed from
the vehicle using the following procedure.

Fig. 7 Special Tool C-4150A

1 - SPECIAL TOOL 4150A
2 - WHEEL MOUNTING STUD
3 - HUB FLANGE
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE

Fig. 8 Stud Removal From Hub

1 - BEARING RETAINER PLATE
2 - NOTCH

(3) Rotate the hub so the stud mounting holes in
the hub are facing in the direction shown in the fig­ure (Fig. 9).

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 9

KNUCKLE (Continued)

(4) Install the Bearing Splitter, Special Tool 1130,
between the hub and the bearing retainer plate as
shown (Fig. 9). Absence of the three wheel mounting
studs allows the bearing splitter to be installed
behind the flange. Hand tighten the nuts to hold
bearing splitter in place on steering knuckle.

Fig. 9 Bearing Splitter Properly Installed

1 - KNUCKLE

(5) Place the steering knuckle face down in an
arbor press supported by the bearing splitter as
shown (Fig. 10).

(8) Remove the three bolts mounting the bearing
retainer plate to the steering knuckle (Fig. 11).
Remove the bearing retainer plate from the steering
knuckle.

Fig. 11 Wheel Bearing Retainer Plate

1 - NOTCH
2 - BOLTS
3 - BEARING RETAINER PLATE

(9) Place the steering knuckle back in the arbor
press face down as shown (Fig. 12). The press sup­port blocks must not obstruct the bearing while it is
being pressed out of the steering knuckle.

(10) Place Remover/Installer, Special Tool
MB-990799 on the outer race of the wheel bearing
(Fig. 12). Press the wheel bearing out of the steering
knuckle.

Fig. 10 Steering Knuckle Positioned In Press

1 - PRESS RAM
2 - HUB

(6) Position Remover/Installer, Special Tool 6644-2,
on the small end of the hub (Fig. 10). Using the arbor
press, remove the hub from the wheel bearing. The
bearing race will normally come out of the wheel
bearing with the hub as it is pressed out of the bear­ing.

(7) Remove the bearing splitter from the steering
knuckle.

Fig. 12 Wheel Bearing Removal

1 - PRESS RAM

(11) Remove the bearing race that is still pressed
onto the hub. To do so, install Bearing Splitter, Spe­cial Tool 1130, between the hub flange and the bear­ing race (Fig. 13). Place the hub, bearing race and
bearing splitter in an arbor press as shown (Fig. 13).

2 - 10 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

KNUCKLE (Continued)

Place Remover/Installer, Special Tool 6644-2 on end
of hub. Press the hub out of the bearing race.

Fig. 14 Wheel Bearing Installation

1 - PRESS RAM

Fig. 13 Bearing Race Removal From Hub

1 - ARBOR PRESS
2 - HUB
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 1130
4 - PRESS BLOCKS (2)
5 - BEARING RACE
6 - SPECIAL TOOL 6644–2

NOTE: For steering knuckle reassembly, (Refer to 2

- SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - ASSEMBLY).

ASSEMBLY - STEERING KNUCKLE (WHEEL
BEARING AND HUB)

(1) Wipe the bore of the steering knuckle clean of

any grease or dirt with a clean, dry shop towel.

(2) Place the steering knuckle in an arbor press
with Installer, Special Tool C-4698-2, supporting the
steering knuckle (Fig. 14).

(3) Place the NEW wheel bearing into the bore of
the steering knuckle. Be sure the wheel bearing is
placed squarely into the bore.

(4) Place Installer, Special Tool 5052, on the outer
race of the wheel bearing (Fig. 14). Press the wheel
bearing into the steering knuckle until it is fully bot­tomed in the bore of the steering knuckle.

(5) Remove the knuckle from the press.

2 - BEARING

(a) Place the studs in the three holes in the hub

flange.

(b) Place the hub in the arbor press supported
by Special Tool C-4698-1, allowing the first stud to
extend down into the tool (Fig. 15).

(c) Press the wheel mounting stud into the hub
flange until it is fully seated against the back side
on the hub flange.

(d) Remove the hub and tool from the press.

(e) Repeat the steps (b), (c) and (d) on the
remaining two studs.

NOTE: Use only the original or identical replace­ment bolts to mount the bearing retainer plate to
the steering knuckle.

(6) Noting the notch location, install the bearing

retainer plate on the steering knuckle as shown (Fig.

11). Install the three bearing retainer mounting
bolts. Tighten the bearing retainer plate mounting
bolts to a torque of 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).

(7) Install the previously removed wheel mounting

studs back into the hub flange. To do so:

Fig. 15 Wheel Mounting Stud Installation

1 - ARBOR PRESS RAM
2 - HUB
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4698–1
4 - NO GAP IS ALLOWED BETWEEN STUD FLANGE AND HUB
HERE
5 - WHEEL MOUNTING STUD

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 11

KNUCKLE (Continued)

(8) Place the steering knuckle with the wheel bear­ing installed back in the arbor press with the smaller
end of Remover/Installer, Special Tool MB-990799,
supporting the inner race of the wheel bearing as
shown (Fig. 16).

(9) Place the hub in the wheel bearing making
sure it is square with the bearing inner race (Fig.

16). Press the hub into the wheel bearing until it is
fully bottomed in the wheel bearing.

Fig. 16 Hub Installation

1 - PRESS RAM
2 - HUB

(10) Remove the steering knuckle and tools from
the press.

(11) Verify the hub turns smoothly without rub­bing or binding.

(12) Install the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE ­INSTALLATION)

once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in
place tighten the nuts to a torque of 53 N·m (40 ft.
lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified
torque is met.

(5) Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering
knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight
away from the steering gear and tie rod end once
installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in
the steering knuckle arm.

(6) Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole
in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attach­ing nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with
a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard
wrench or crowfoot wrench (Fig. 3). To fully tighten
the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a
torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the
stud. Tighten the nut to a torque of 55 N·m (40 ft.
lbs.).

(7) Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and
adapter. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/ME­CHANICAL/ROTOR - INSTALLATION)

(8) Clean all foreign matter from the threads of
the driveshaft outer C/V joint.

(9) Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft
and snug it (Fig. 2).

(10) Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle
brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from
turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m
(180 ft. lbs.)

(11) Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter
pin on the hub nut (Fig. 2). Wrap the cotter pin ends
tightly around the lock nut (Fig. 17).

INSTALLATION - STEERING KNUCKLE

(1) Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the

splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.

(2) Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint
stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with
the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.

(3) Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut
(Fig. 5). Tighten the nut to a torque of 95 N·m (70 ft.
lbs.).

CAUTION: The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install the nuts while holding the
bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.

(4) Position the lower end of the strut assembly in
line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and
align the mounting holes (Fig. 1). Install the two
attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so
that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle

Fig. 17 Correctly Installed Cotter Pin

1 - COTTER PIN
2 - NUT LOCK

(12) Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install
the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a
torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(13) Lower the vehicle.

(14) Set the front toe on the vehicle to required
specification. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

2 - 12 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

LOWER BALL JOINT

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BALL JOINT

With the weight of the vehicle resting on the road
wheels, grasp the headless grease fitting as shown
(Fig. 18). With no mechanical assistance or added
force, attempt to move the grease fitting. If the ball
joint is worn, the grease fitting will move. If move­ment is noted, replace the ball joint.

Fig. 19 Seal Boot Removal

1 - TOOL
2 - SEAL BOOT
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

Fig. 18 Checking Ball Joint Wear

1 - BALL JOINT
2 - HEADLESS GREASE FITTING

CAUTION: No attempt should be made to service
the headless grease fitting on the ball joint. It has
been purposely snapped off by the manufacturer to
avoid over-greasing.

LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL
BOOT

REMOVAL

(1) Remove steering knuckle from vehicle. (Refer
to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE ­REMOVAL)

(2) Using a screwdriver or other suitable tool, pry
seal boot off of ball joint (Fig. 19).

INSTALLATION

(1) Wipe off used grease around ball joint stem.

CAUTION: When installing the sealing boot on the
ball joint, position the upward lip on the seal boot
outside perimeter outward, away from the control
arm once installed (Fig. 20). It is there to help shield
heat from the sealing boot.

Fig. 20 Seal Boot Installation

1 - SEAL BOOT UPWARD LIP
2 - BALL JOINT

(2) Place NEW ball joint seal boot over ball joint
stem. Upward lip located on outside perimeter of seal
boot must point outward, away from control arm
once installed (Fig. 20).

(3) By hand, start sealing boot over sides of the
ball joint.

(4) Position Installer, Special Tool 6758, over seal­ing boot outer diameter as shown (Fig. 20). By hand,
apply pressure to top of Installer until seal boot is
pressed squarely down against top surface of lower
control arm.

(5) Remove tool.

(6) Remove headless grease fitting on ball joint
and replace it with standard zirc-type grease fitting.
Do not discard headless grease fitting.

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 13

LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT (Continued)

CAUTION: It is important to lubricate the ball joint
before installation of steering knuckle to allow
proper venting when the seal is filled. If the ball
joint is lubricated after installation to knuckle, dam­age to the seal can occur.

(7) Using a hand operated pump grease gun, fill
the ball joint seal boot with Mopart Multi-Mileage
Lube or equivalent until grease pushes out past ball
joint stem. Wipe off overfill.

(8) Remove standard zirc-type grease fitting and
reinstall headless grease fitting on ball joint to pre­vent future lubricating. See above caution.

(9) Install steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLATION)

LOWER CONTROL ARM

DESCRIPTION

There is one lower control arm on each side of the
vehicle. Each lower control arm is a stamped steel
unit using rubber isolated pivot bushings to isolate it
from the front suspension crossmember and frame of
the vehicle (Fig. 1) . The rear bushing can be ser­viced separately.

The front of the lower control arm is bolted to the
front crossmember using a bolt through the center of
the rubber pivot bushing. The rear of the lower con­trol arm is mounted to both the front crossmember
and the frame rail of the vehicle using a thru-bolt.
The thru-bolt goes through both the crossmember
and rear lower control arm bushing, threading
directly into a caged nut in the frame rail of the vehi­cle.

The left and right lower control arms are intercon­nected through a linked rubber isolated stabilizer
bar.

The outboard end of each lower control arm con­nects to the steering knuckle using a ball joint.

The lower control arm connects to the steering
knuckle through a ball joint mounted at the outboard
end of the arm (Fig. 1) . The ball joint is pressed into
the lower control arm and has a non-tapered stud
with a notch for steering knuckle pinch bolt clear­ance. The ball joint stud is clamped and locked to the
steering knuckle lower leg using a pinch bolt.

The ball joint is lubricated for life during the man­ufacturing process. Once lubricated for life, the
grease fitting head is snapped off by the manufac­turer. This is done to eliminate the possibility of
lubrication later in the ball joints life thus damaging
the non-vented ball joint seal boot.

The ball joint used on this vehicle is replaceable
and can be serviced as a separate component of the
lower control arm.

OPERATION

The lower control arm supports the lower end of
the steering knuckle and allows for the up and down
movement of the suspension during the jounce and
rebound travel. The lower control arm ball joint con­nects the arm to the steering knuckle.

The ball joint is a pivotal joint on the lower control
arm that allows the knuckle to move up and down,
and turn with ease.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER CONTROL
ARM

Inspect the lower control arm for signs of damage
from contact with the ground or road debris. If the
lower control arm shows any sign of damage, look for
distortion. Do not attempt to repair or straighten a
broken or bent lower control arm. If damaged, the
lower control arm stamping is serviced only as a
complete component.

The serviceable components of the lower control
arm are: the ball joint, the ball joint grease seal and
the lower control arm rear isolator bushing.

Inspect both lower control arm isolator bushings
for severe deterioration and replace as required.
Inspect the ball joint per the inspection procedure in
this section of the service manual and replace as
required. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/
LOWER BALL JOINT - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST­ING).

REMOVAL - LOWER CONTROL ARM

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/FRONT - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.

(3) Remove both stabilizer bar links from the vehi­cle (Fig. 21). Remove each link by holding the upper
retainer/nut with a wrench and turning the link bolt.

(4) Rotate the forward ends of the stabilizer bar
downward. It may be necessary to loosen the stabi­lizer bar cushion retainer bolts a little to ease any
turning resistance.

(5) Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the
ball joint stud to the steering knuckle (Fig. 22).

CAUTION: After removing the steering knuckle from
the ball joint stud, do not pull outward on the
knuckle. Pulling the steering knuckle outward at
this point can separate the inner C/V joint on the
driveshaft. Refer to FRONT DRIVESHAFTS in the
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE group for further
information.

2 - 14 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(b) Remove the drive-belt splash shield fasteners

(Fig. 23). Remove the shield.

(c) Remove the pencil strut from the right front
corner of the crossmember and body of the vehicle
(Fig. 24). Remove the washer behind the strut from
the torque strut bolt.

(d) Remove the bolts mounting the engine torque
strut in place (Fig. 24), then remove the engine
torque strut from the vehicle.

Fig. 21 Stabilizer Bar Links (Typical)

1 - STABILIZER BAR CUSHION RETAINERS
2 - CUSHIONS
3 - FRONT STABILIZER BAR
4 - STABILIZER BAR LINKS

Fig. 22 Ball Joint Bolt And Nut (Typical)

1 - NUT
2 - BOLT
3 - BALL JOINT

NOTE: Use caution when separating the ball joint
stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal
does not get cut.

(6) Separate the ball joint stud from the steering
knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up
against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle
(Fig. 6).

(7) If the right lower control arm is being serviced,
perform the following:

(a) Remove the screws fastening the front fascia
to the reinforcement as necessary in order to
access the drive-belt splash shield forward fastener
screw (Fig. 23).

Fig. 23 Fascia And Splash Shield Fasteners

1 - FASCIA FASTENERS
2 - FASCIA FASTENERS
3 - SPLASH SHIELD FASTENERS

Fig. 24 Strut Mounting

1 - NUT
2 - PENCIL STRUT
3 - NUT
4 - FLAT WASHER
5 - LOWER TORQUE STRUT

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 15

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(8) Remove the front pivot bolt attaching the lower

control arm to the front suspension crossmember
(Fig. 25). Remove the rear pivot bolt attaching the
lower control arm to the front suspension crossmem­ber and frame rail. Remove the lower control arm
from the crossmember.

Fig. 26 Seal Boot Removal

1 - TOOL
2 - SEAL BOOT
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

Fig. 25 Lower Control Arm Attaching Bolts

1 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
2 - FRONT BOLT
3 - CROSSMEMBER
4 - REAR BOLT

DISASSEMBLY

DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM (BALL
JOINT)

NOTE: The removal and installation of the lower
ball joint from the lower control arm is to be done
with the lower control arm removed from the vehi­cle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER
CONTROL ARM - REMOVAL).

(1) Using a screwdriver or other suitable tool, pry

the seal boot off of the ball joint (Fig. 26).

(2) Position the Receiver, Special Tool 6908-2, on a

hydraulic press to support the lower control arm
(Fig. 27). Place the control arm on top of Tool 6908-2
so that the bottom of the ball joint sets into the
Receiver cup.

(3) Place the larger end of the Adapter, Special

Tool 6804, on top of the ball joint as shown (Fig. 27).

(4) Using the hydraulic press, press the ball joint

completely out of the lower control arm, into the
receiver.

(5) Remove the tools, ball joint and arm from the

hydraulic press.

Fig. 27 Ball Joint Removal

1 - PRESS
2 - BALL JOINT

DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(REAR ISOLATOR BUSHING)

NOTE: The removal and installation of the rear iso­lator bushing from the lower control arm is only to
be done with the lower control arm removed from
the vehicle (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/
LOWER CONTROL ARM - REMOVAL). The front iso­lator bushing is not serviceable.

(1) Install the Remover Receiver, Special Tool
8373-1, into the cup of the Ball Joint Press, Special
Tool C-4212F, and tighten the set screw. Install the
Remover Driver, Special Tool 8373-2, on the tip of the
Ball Joint Press screw-drive.

2 - 16 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(2) Place the lower control arm outer flange
against the Receiver as shown (Fig. 28). Tighten the
screw-drive until the Driver contacts the outer cir­cumference of the bushing evenly (Fig. 28). Continue
to tighten the screw-drive until the bushing is
pressed completely out of the lower control arm.

Fig. 29 Ball Joint Alignment

1 - BALL JOINT STUD
2 - NOTCH
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - FRONT ISOLATOR BUSHING

Fig. 28 Removing Bushing

1 - CONTROL ARM ISOLATOR BUSHING
2 - FLANGE

(3) Back off the screw-drive and remove the lower
control arm and isolator bushing from the Receiver.

(4) Remove the driver 8373-2 and receiver 8373-1
from the ball joint press C-4212F.

ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM (BALL
JOINT)

CAUTION: When installing a ball joint in its mount­ing hole in the lower control arm, position the ball
joint so the notch in the ball joint stud is facing the
lower control arm front isolator bushing (Fig. 29).
This will ease assembly of the ball joint to the
steering knuckle when the installation of the pinch
bolt is attempted.

(1) By hand, position ball joint into it’s bore on the
lower control arm (Fig. 29). To avoid binding upon
installation, be sure the ball joint is not cocked in the
bore.

(2) Position the Installer, Special Tool 6758, on a
hydraulic press to support the lower control arm
(Fig. 30). Place the control arm on top of Tool 6758 in
the upside-down position, aligning the ball joint stud
squarely with the Installer’s cup.

(3) Place the larger end of the Adapter, Special
Tool 6804, on top of the ball joint as shown (Fig. 30).

Fig. 30 Ball Joint Installation

1 - PRESS
2 - BALL JOINT

(4) Using the hydraulic press, press the ball joint
into the lower control arm until the shoulder on the
ball joint bottoms against the lower control arm ball
joint bore. Do not apply excessive pressure against
ball joint and lower control arm once the ball joint
bottoms.

(5) Remove the tools and arm from the hydraulic
press.

CAUTION: When installing the sealing boot on the
ball joint, position the upward lip on the outside
perimeter of the seal boot outward, away from the
control arm once installed (Fig. 31). It is there to
help shield heat from the sealing boot.

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 17

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

ASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM (REAR
ISOLATOR BUSHING)

(1) Back the ball joint press C-4212F set screw
outward so it does not extend out into the cup area
(Fig. 32).

Fig. 31 Seal Boot Installation

1 - SEAL BOOT UPWARD LIP
2 - BALL JOINT

(6) Place a new ball joint seal boot over the ball
joint stud. The upward lip located on the outside
perimeter of the seal boot must point outward away
from the control arm once installed (Fig. 31). Start
the sealing boot over the sides of the ball joint by
hand.

(7) Position the Installer, Special Tool 6758, over
the sealing boot outer diameter as shown (Fig. 31).
By hand, apply pressure to the top of the Installer
until the seal boot is pressed squarely down against
the top surface of lower control arm.

(8) Remove the tool.

(9) If not already installed, install standard zirc­type grease fitting in ball joint.

CAUTION: It is important to lubricate the ball joint
before installation of steering knuckle to allow
proper venting when the seal is filled. If the ball
joint is lubricated after installation to knuckle, dam­age to the seal can occur.

(10) Using a hand-operated pump grease gun, fill
the ball joint seal boot with Mopart Multi-Mileage
Lube or equivalent until grease pushes out past ball
joint stem. Wipe off overfill.

(11) Remove standard zirc-type grease fitting and
install headless grease fitting from original ball joint
to prevent future lubricating. See above Caution. Be

sure to properly clean headless grease fitting
prior to installation.

(12) Install the lower control arm. (Refer to 2 ­SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM ­INSTALLATION).

1 - SET SCREW
2 - CUP AREA

(2) Start the bushing in the lower control arm
bushing bore by hand. Position the bushing so the
voids in the rubber are aligned in relationship to the
ball joint as shown (Fig. 33). Place the larger void
toward the ball joint.

(3) Install the Receiver, Special Tool 6760, on the
tip of the Ball Joint Press screw drive.

(4) Place the lower control arm flange against the
cup area of the ball joint press and tighten the screw­drive until the Receiver contacts the outer circumfer­ence of the bushing (Fig. 34). Slowly tighten the
screw-drive until the bushing bottoms in the lower
control arm bushing bore.

(5) Back off the Ball Joint Press screw-drive and
remove the control arm from the press.

(6) Install the lower control arm on the vehicle.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CON­TROL ARM - INSTALLATION)

INSTALLATION - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(1) Position the lower control arm into the cross­member (Fig. 25). Install, but do not fully tighten,
the rear pivot bolt attaching the lower control arm to
the front suspension crossmember and frame rail.
Install, but do not fully tighten, the front pivot bolt
attaching the lower control arm to the front suspen­sion crossmember.

Fig. 32 Set Screw Backed Outward

2 - 18 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

Fig. 34 Installing Bushing

1 - LOWER CONTROL ARM FLANGE
2 - ISOLATOR BUSHING

(b) Install the washer on the end of the stud

extending from the torque strut bolt (Fig. 24).

(c) Install the pencil strut to the right front cor­ner of the crossmember and body of the vehicle
(Fig. 24). Tighten the pencil strut nuts to a torque
of 58 N·m (43 ft. lbs.).

(d) Install the drive-belt splash shield and fas­teners (Fig. 23).

(e) Install the screws fastening the front fascia
to the reinforcement (Fig. 23).
(5) Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut

(Fig. 22). Tighten the nut to a torque of 95 N·m (70
ft. lbs.).

(6) Rotate the forward ends of the stabilizer bar

into mounting position.

(7) Clean the threads of the stabilizer bar link

Fig. 33 Aligning Bushing With Ball Joint

1 - REAR ISOLATOR BUSHING
2 - BALL JOINT
3 - WIDE VOID
4 - NARROW VOID

(2) With no weight on the lower control arm,
tighten the lower control arm rear pivot (and suspen­sion crossmember) bolt to a torque of 250 N·m (185
ft. lbs.), then tighten the lower control arm front
pivot bolt to a torque of 170 N·m (125 ft. lbs.).

(3) Install the ball joint stud into the steering
knuckle aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss
with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint
stud.

(4) If the right lower control arm has been ser­viced, perform the following:

(a) Install the engine torque strut (Fig. 24). To
properly align and tighten the torque strut, (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/TORQUE
STRUT - ADJUSTMENTS).

bolts, then apply Mopart Lock And Seal or equiva­lent to the threads.

(8) Install both stabilizer bar links back on vehicle
(Fig. 21). Start each stabilizer bar link bolt with
bushing from the bottom, through the stabilizer bar,
inner link bushings, lower control arm, and into the
upper retainer/nut and bushing (Fig. 1). Do not fully
tighten the link assemblies at this time.

(9) Lower the vehicle to ground level.

NOTE: It may be necessary to put the vehicle on a
platform hoist or alignment rack to gain access to
the stabilizer bar mounting bolts with the vehicle at
curb height.

(10) Tighten each stabilizer bar link by holding the
upper retainer/nut with a wrench and turning the
link bolt. Tighten each link bolt to a torque of 28
N·m (250 in. lbs.).

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 19

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(11) If previously loosened, tighten the stabilizer
bar cushion retainer bolts to a torque of 28 N·m (250
in. lbs.).

STABILIZER BAR

DESCRIPTION

The stabilizer bar interconnects both front lower
control arms of the vehicle and is attached to the
front suspension crossmember (Fig. 1) .

Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the front sus­pension crossmember is through 2 rubber-isolator
cushion and retainers (Fig. 1) . The stabilizer bar
attachment to the lower control arm is done by uti­lizing an isolated stabilizer bar link at each arm. All
components of the stabilizer bar are serviceable.

OPERATION

The stabilizer bar helps control vehicle body roll.
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one wheel
are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel of the
vehicle through the stabilizer bar.

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/FRONT - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove both stabilizer bar links from the vehi­cle (Fig. 35). Remove each link by holding the upper
retainer/nut with a wrench and turning the link bolt.

(3) Remove the stabilizer bar cushion retainer
bolts and retainers (Fig. 35), and remove the stabi­lizer bar with cushions attached from the vehicle.

(4) To remove the cushions from the stabilizer bar,
peel back each cushion at the slit and roll it off the
bar.

INSPECTION

Inspect for broken, cracked or distorted stabilizer
bar cushions and retainers. Inspect for worn or dam­aged stabilizer bar links (Fig. 1).

INSTALLATION

NOTE: Before stabilizer bar installation, inspect the
cushions and links for excessive wear, cracks, dam­age and distortion. Replace any pieces failing
inspection.

(1) If removed, install the stabilizer bar cushions
on the stabilizer bar utilizing the slit in each cush­ion. Position the cushions at each end of the bar’s
straight beam, just before it begins to curve.

NOTE: Before installing the stabilizer bar, make
sure the bar is not upside-down. The stabilizer bar
must be installed with the curve on the outboard
ends of the bar facing downward to clear the con­trol arms once fully installed (Fig. 36).

Fig. 35 Stabilizer Bar (Typical)

1 - STABILIZER BAR CUSHION RETAINERS
2 - CUSHIONS
3 - FRONT STABILIZER BAR
4 - STABILIZER BAR LINKS

Fig. 36 Downward Curve

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - LINK
3 - DOWNWARD CURVE
4 - CUSHION RETAINER

(2) First, place the stabilizer bar in position on the
front suspension crossmember. The slits in each
cushion must point toward the front of the vehicle
and sit directly on top of the raised beads formed
into the stamping on the crossmember. Next, install
the cushion retainers, matching the raised beads

2 - 20 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

formed into the cushion retainers to the grooves
formed into the cushions. Install the cushion retainer
bolts, but do not completely tighten them at this
time.

(3) Clean the threads of the stabilizer bar link
bolts, then apply Mopart Lock And Seal or equiva­lent to the threads.

(4) Install both stabilizer bar links back on vehicle
(Fig. 35). Start each stabilizer bar link bolt with
bushing from the bottom, through the stabilizer bar,
inner link bushings, lower control arm, and into the
upper retainer/nut and bushing (Fig. 1). Do not fully
tighten the link assemblies at this time.

(5) Lower the vehicle.

NOTE: It may be necessary to put the vehicle on a
platform hoist or alignment rack to gain access to
the stabilizer bar mounting bolts with the vehicle at
curb height.

(6) Tighten each stabilizer bar link by holding the
upper retainer/nut with a wrench and turning the
link bolt. Tighten each link bolt to a torque of 28
N·m (250 in. lbs.).

(7) Tighten the stabilizer bar cushion retainer
bolts to a torque of 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).

STRUT ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION

A Macpherson type design strut assembly is used
in place of the front suspension upper control arm
and upper ball joint (Fig. 1). The bottom of the strut
mounts directly to the steering knuckle using 2
attaching bolts and nuts going through the strut cle­vis bracket and steering knuckle. The top of the strut
mounts directly to the strut tower of the vehicle
using the three threaded studs on the strut assem­blies upper mount.

The strut assembly includes the following compo­nents (Fig. 1):

• Upper mount (rubber isolated)

• Upper spring seat and bearing

• Dust shield

• Jounce bumper

• Coil spring

• Lower spring isolator

• Strut (damper)

Each component is serviced by removing the strut
assembly from the vehicle and disassembling it.

Coil springs are rated separately for each corner or
side of the vehicle depending on optional equipment
and type of vehicle service. If a coil spring requires
replacement, be sure that it is replaced with a spring
meeting the correct load rating for the vehicle and its
specific options.

OPERATION

The strut assembly cushions the ride of the vehicle,
controlling vibration, jounce and rebound of the sus­pension.

The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
proper ride height.

The spring isolators isolate the coil spring at the
top and bottom from coming into metal-to-metal con­tact with the upper mounting seat and the strut.

The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce condition.

The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT ASSEMBLY
(FRONT)

Inspect the strut assembly for the following condi­tions (Fig. 38):

• Inspect for a damaged or broken coil spring.

• Inspect for a torn or damaged strut assembly

dust shield.

• Lift the dust shield and inspect the strut assem­bly for evidence of fluid running from the upper end
of the strut fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a
stream of fluid running down the side and dripping
off lower end of unit). A slight amount of seepage
between the strut shaft and strut shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the strut
assembly.

• Lift the dust shield and inspect the jounce
bumper for signs of damage or deterioration.

• Inspect the clearance between the shock tower
and the coil spring. Make sure no fasteners are pro­truding through the shock tower possibly contacting
the coil spring and strut. Because of the minimum
clearance in this area (Fig. 37), installation of metal
fasteners could damage the coil spring coating and
lead to a corrosion failure of the spring.

CAUTION: At no time when servicing a vehicle can
a sheet metal screw, bolt or other metal fastener be
installed into the shock tower to take the place of
an original plastic clip. Also, do not drill holes into
the front shock tower for the installation of any
metal fasteners into the shock tower area indicated
(Fig. 37).

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/FRONT - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 21

STRUT ASSEMBLY (Continued)

(2) Remove tire and wheel assembly.

(3) If both strut assemblies are to be removed,
mark the strut assemblies right or left according to
which side of the vehicle they were removed from.

(4) Remove the screw securing the ground strap to
the rear of the strut (Fig. 39).

Fig. 37 Shock Tower Area (Typical)

1 - SHOCK TOWER
2 - COIL SPRING
3 - NO SHEET METAL SCREWS, BOLTS, OR ANY OTHER METAL
FASTENERS ARE TO BE INSTALLED INTO SHOCK TOWER IN
THIS AREA. ALSO, NO HOLES ARE TO BE DRILLED INTO
SHOCK TOWER IN THIS SAME AREA.

Fig. 38 Strut Assembly

1 - NUT
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - STRUT
4 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
5 - COIL SPRING
6 - JOUNCE BUMPER
7 - DUST SHIELD
8 - SPRING SEATAND BEARING (WITH SPRING ISOLATOR)
9 - UPPER MOUNT

Fig. 39 Ground Strap And ABS Sensor Bracket

1 - ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR ROUTING BRACKET (IF
EQUIPPED)
2 - GROUND STRAP
3 - GROUND STRAP SCREW
4 - ABS SENSOR BRACKET SCREW (IF EQUIPPED)

(5) If the vehicle is equipped with Antilock brakes
(ABS), remove the screw securing the ABS wheel
speed sensor to the rear of the strut (Fig. 39).

CAUTION: The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the
steering knuckle while removing the nuts, then tap
the bolts out using a pin punch.

(6) Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the
steering knuckle (Fig. 1).

(7) Lower the vehicle just enough to open the
hood, but without letting the tires touch the floor.

(8) Remove the three nuts attaching the upper
mount of the strut assembly to the vehicle’s strut
tower (Fig. 40).

(9) Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.

(10) For disassembly, (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/STRUT - DISASSEMBLY).

DISASSEMBLY

The Strut assembly must be removed from the
vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT ­REMOVAL)

2 - 22 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

STRUT ASSEMBLY (Continued)

Fig. 40 Upper Mounting Nuts

1 - NUTS

For the disassembly and assembly of the strut
assembly, use strut spring compressor, Pentastar Ser­vice Equipment (PSE) tool W-7200, or the equivalent,
to compress the coil spring. Follow the manufactur­er’s instructions closely.

(1) If both struts are being serviced at the same
time, mark the coil spring and strut assembly accord­ing to which side of the vehicle the strut was
removed from, and which strut the coil spring was
removed from.

(2) Position the strut assembly in the strut coil
spring compressor following the manufacturers
instructions. Set the lower hooks (Fig. 41), then set
the upper hooks (Fig. 42). Position the strut clevis
bracket straight outward away from the compressor.
Place a clamp on the lower end of the coil spring, so
the strut is held in place once the strut shaft nut is
removed (Fig. 41).

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT SHAFT
NUT BEFORE THE COIL SPRING IS COMPRESSED.
THE COIL SPRING IS HELD UNDER PRESSURE
AND MUST BE COMPRESSED, REMOVING SPRING
TENSION FROM THE UPPER MOUNT AND PIVOT
BEARING, BEFORE THE SHAFT NUT IS REMOVED.

(3) Compress the coil spring until all coil spring
tension is removed from the upper mount.

CAUTION: Never use impact or high speed tools to
remove the strut shaft nut. Damage to the strut
internal bearings may occur.

Fig. 41 Strut Assembly In Compressor (Lower)

1 - LOWER HOOKS
2 - CLAMP
3 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
4 - CLEVIS BRACKET
5 - SPRING COMPRESSOR

(4) Once the spring is sufficiently compressed,
install Strut Nut Socket, Special Tool 6864, on the
strut shaft retaining nut (Fig. 43). Next, install a
socket on the hex on the end of the strut shaft. While
holding the strut shaft from turning, remove the nut
from the strut shaft.

(5) Remove the upper mount from the strut shaft
(Fig. 44).

(6) Remove the upper spring seat and bearing,
along with the upper spring isolator as an assembly
from the top of the coil spring by pulling them
straight up (Fig. 44). The upper spring isolator can
be separated from the spring seat and bearing once
removed from vehicle.

(7) Remove the dust shield, then the jounce
bumper from the strut shaft by pulling each straight
up (Fig. 44).

(8) Remove the clamp from the bottom of the coil
spring and remove the strut out through the bottom
of the coil spring.

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 23

STRUT ASSEMBLY (Continued)

Fig. 42 Strut Assembly In Compressor (Upper)

1 - NOTCH IN UPPER SEAT
2 - UPPER MOUNT
3 - UPPER HOOKS
4 - CLEVIS BRACKET

Fig. 43 Shaft Nut Removal/Installation

1 - SPRING COMPRESSOR
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6864
3 - UPPER MOUNT

(9) Remove the lower spring isolator from the

lower spring seat on the strut.

Fig. 44 Strut Assembly Components

1 - NUT
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - STRUT
4 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
5 - COIL SPRING
6 - JOUNCE BUMPER
7 - DUST SHIELD
8 - SPRING SEATAND BEARING (WITH SPRING ISOLATOR)
9 - UPPER MOUNT

NOTE: If the coil spring needs to be serviced, pro­ceed with the next step, otherwise, proceed with
step Step 11.

(10) Release the tension from the coil spring by
backing off the compressor drive completely. Push
back the compressor hooks and remove the coil
spring.

(11) Inspect the strut assembly components for the
following and replace as necessary:

• Inspect the strut for any condition of shaft bind-

ing over the full stroke of the shaft.

• Inspect the jounce bumper for cracks and signs

of deterioration.

• Check the upper mount for cracks and distortion

and its retaining studs for any sign of damage.

• Check the upper spring seat and bearing for

cracks and distortion.

• Check for binding of the upper spring seat and

bearing pivot bearing.

• Inspect the dust shield for rips and deteriora-

tion.

2 - 24 FRONT SUSPENSION PT

STRUT ASSEMBLY (Continued)

• Inspect the upper and lower spring isolators for

material deterioration and distortion.

• Inspect the coil spring for any sign of damage to

the coating.

NOTE: For reassembly, (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/STRUT - ASSEMBLY).

ASSEMBLY

NOTE: If the coil spring has been removed from the
spring compressor, proceed with the next step, oth­erwise, proceed with step Step 3.

(1) Place the coil spring in the compressor follow­ing the manufacturers instructions. Before compress­ing the spring, rotate the spring so the end of the top
coil is directly in the front as shown (Fig. 45).

on the lower end of the coil spring and strut, so the
strut is held in place.

(5) Install the jounce bumper on the strut shaft.
The jounce bumper is to be installed with the smaller
end pointing downward toward the lower seat (Fig.

44).

(6) Install the dust shield on the strut shaft (Fig.

44). The bottom of the dust shield will snap to the
retainer on top of the strut housing.

(7) If disassembled, reinstall the upper spring iso­lator on the upper spring seat and bearing.

(8) Install the upper spring seat and bearing on
top of the coil spring. Position the notch formed into
the edge of the upper seat straight out away from the
compressor (Fig. 42). It should line up with the very
end of the coil spring coil.

(9) Install the strut upper mount over the strut
shaft and onto the top of the upper spring seat and
bearing. Position the mount so that the third mount­ing stud on the mount top is inward toward the com­pressor, opposite the clevis bracket.

CAUTION: Never use impact or high speed tools to
install the strut shaft nut. Damage to the strut inter­nal bearings may occur.

Fig. 45 Upper Coil Spring Positioning

1 - UPPER END OF COIL
2 - COIL SPRING
3 - LOWER END OF COIL
4 - SPRING COMPRESSOR

(2) Slowly compress the coil spring until enough

room is available for strut assembly reassembly.

(3) Install the lower spring isolator on the lower

spring seat of the strut.

(4) Install the strut through the bottom of the coil
spring until the lower spring seat contacts the lower
end of the coil spring. Rotate the strut as necessary
until the clevis bracket is positioned straight outward
away from the compressor (Fig. 41). Install the clamp

(10) Loosely install the retaining nut on the strut
shaft. Install Strut Nut Socket (on the end of a
torque wrench), Special Tool 6864, on the strut shaft
retaining nut (Fig. 43). Next, install a socket on the
hex on the end of the strut shaft. While holding the
strut shaft from turning, tighten the strut shaft
retaining nut to a torque of 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.).

(11) Slowly release the tension from the coil spring
by backing off the compressor drive completely. As
the tension is relieved, make sure the upper mount
and seat and bearing align properly. Verify the upper
mount does not bind.

(12) Remove the clamp from the lower end of the
coil spring and strut. Push back the spring compres­sor upper and lower hooks, then remove the strut
assembly from the spring compressor.

(13) Install the strut assembly on the vehicle.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT ­INSTALLATION)

INSTALLATION

(1) Install the strut assembly into the strut tower,
aligning the three studs on the strut upper mount
with the holes in strut tower. Install the three
mounting nuts on the studs (Fig. 40). Tighten the
three nuts to a torque of 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.).

(2) Close the hood of the vehicle.

PT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 25

STRUT ASSEMBLY (Continued)

CAUTION: The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install the nuts while holding the
bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.

(3) Position the lower end of the strut assembly in
line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and
align the mounting holes (Fig. 1). Install the two
attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed so that
the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once
installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place
tighten the nuts to a torque of 53 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque
is met.

(4) If the vehicle is equipped with Antilock brakes
(ABS), attach the ABS wheel speed sensor to the rear

of the strut (rearward ear) using its mounting screw
(Fig. 39). Tighten the mounting screw to a torque of
13 N·m (120 in. lbs.).

(5) Attach the ground strap to the rear of the strut
(forward ear) using its mounting screw (Fig. 39).
Tighten the mounting screw to a torque of 13 N·m
(120 in. lbs.).

(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install and
tighten the wheel mounting nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Next,
repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified
torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(7) Lower the vehicle.

2 - 26 REAR SUSPENSION PT

REAR SUSPENSION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

REAR SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION - REAR SUSPENSION .......26

OPERATION - REAR SUSPENSION .........26

WARNING

WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS .............27

SPECIFICATIONS

REAR SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE . . 28

SPECIAL TOOLS

REAR SUSPENSION ...................28

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR

DESCRIPTION .........................29

OPERATION ...........................29

REMOVAL .............................29

INSPECTION ..........................33

INSTALLATION .........................33

AXLE PIVOT BUSHING

REMOVAL .............................37

INSTALLATION .........................38

HUB / BEARING

DESCRIPTION .........................39

OPERATION ...........................39

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND

BEARING (REAR) .....................39

REMOVAL .............................40

INSTALLATION .........................41

JOUNCE BUMPER

REMOVAL .............................41

INSTALLATION .........................41

SHOCK ABSORBER

DESCRIPTION .........................41

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK

ABSORBER ..........................41

REMOVAL .............................41

INSTALLATION .........................41

SPINDLE

REMOVAL .............................42

INSTALLATION .........................43

SPRING

DESCRIPTION .........................44

REMOVAL .............................44

INSTALLATION .........................45

STABILIZER BAR

DESCRIPTION .........................47

OPERATION ...........................47

REMOVAL .............................47

INSTALLATION .........................47

STABILIZER BAR CUSHIONS

REMOVAL .............................47

INSTALLATION .........................48

STABILIZER BAR LINK

REMOVAL .............................48

INSTALLATION .........................48

WATTS LINK ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION .........................48

OPERATION ...........................49

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATTS LINK

ASSEMBLY ..........................49

WATTS BELL CRANK

REMOVAL .............................49

INSTALLATION .........................49

WATTS LINK

REMOVAL .............................51

INSTALLATION .........................51

REAR SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION - REAR SUSPENSION

The rear suspension design on this vehicle uses
coil springs mounted above a twist beam axle assem­bly (Fig. 1).

The rear suspension consists of these major compo­nents:

• Axle

• Coil spring (2)

• Hub and bearing (2)

• Jounce bumper (2)

• Shock absorber (2)

• Spindle (2)

• Stabilizer bar (Fig. 2)

• Watts link assembly

Refer to individual components for additional infor-

mation.

OPERATION - REAR SUSPENSION

The rear suspension is designed to handle the var­ious load requirements of the vehicle. As the vehicle
moves along traversing bumps and dips, the suspen­sion moves up and down to compensate, allowing for
a comfortable, steady ride.

Refer to individual components for additional infor­mation.

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 27

REAR SUSPENSION (Continued)

Fig. 1 Rear Suspension System

1 - ISOLATORS
2 - JOUNCE BUMPER
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
4 - WATTS LINK (UPPER)

WARNING

WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS

WARNING: DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON
BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CON­TAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR
AFTERMARKET LININGS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE
CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN
CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM. EXERCISE CARE
WHEN SERVICING BRAKE PARTS. DO NOT SAND,
OR GRIND BRAKE LINING UNLESS EQUIPMENT
USED IS DESIGNED TO CONTAIN THE DUST RESI­DUE. DO NOT CLEAN BRAKE PARTS WITH COM­PRESSED AIR OR BY DRY BRUSHING. CLEANING
SHOULD BE DONE BY DAMPENING THE BRAKE

5 - WATTS LINK (LOWER)
6 - BELL CRANK
7 - AXLE
8 - COIL SPRING

COMPONENTS WITH A FINE MIST OF WATER,
THEN WIPING THE BRAKE COMPONENTS CLEAN
WITH A DAMPENED CLOTH. DISPOSE OF CLOTH
AND ALL RESIDUE CONTAINING ASBESTOS
FIBERS IN AN IMPERMEABLE CONTAINER WITH
THE APPROPRIATE LABEL. FOLLOW PRACTICES
PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY
AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA)
FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND DISPOSI­TION OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY CONTAIN
ASBESTOS FIBERS.

2 - 28 REAR SUSPENSION PT

REAR SUSPENSION (Continued)

1 - LINK
2 - STABILIZER BAR
3 - CUSHION
4 - RETAINER

Fig. 2 Stabilizer Bar

DESCRIPTION N·m

Shock Absorber Lower
Mounting Bolt

Shock Absorber Upper
Mounting Bolt

Stabilizer Bar Cushion
Retainer Bolt

Stabilizer Bar Link Bolts And
Nuts

Watts Link Bell Crank Pivot
Bolt

Watts Link Ball Joint Nut 14 +

Watts Link Body Bracket
Bolt

Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100 —

88 65 —

99 73 —

61 45 —

65 48 —

149 110 —

180°
Turn

92 68 —

Ft.

Lbs.

10 +
180°
Turn

SPECIAL TOOLS

REAR SUSPENSION

In.

Lbs.

—

CAUTION: Only frame contact or wheel lift hoisting
equipment can be used on this vehicle. It cannot be
hoisted using equipment designed to lift a vehicle
by the rear axle. If this type of hoisting equipment
is used, damage to rear suspension components
will occur.

NOTE: If a rear suspension component becomes
bent, damaged or fails, no attempt should be made
to straighten or repair it. Always replace it with a
new component.

SPECIFICATIONS

REAR SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m

Axle Bracket-to-Body Bolts 54 40 —
Axle Brake/Spindle Bolts 95 70 —
Axle Parking Brake Cable

Bracket Bolts
Axle Trailing Arm Pivot Bolt 122 90 —
Hub (To Spindle) Nut 217 160 —

11 — 100

Ft.

Lbs.

In.

Lbs.

Remover/Installer 8405

Press, Ball Joint C-4212F

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 29

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
REAR

DESCRIPTION

The steel rear axle on this vehicle is a twist beam
design (Fig. 1) . It has a tubular torsion tube running
through the center of its width. It also has two trail­ing arms, one extending from each end of the axle
forward. Each trailing arm has a rubber pivot bush­ing pressed into it. Two coil spring perches are
mounted to its top surface in line with the rear wheel
center.

OPERATION

The rear axle pivots at the forward end of the trail­ing arms through the bushings. Coil springs mounted
on top of the axle support the trailing end. As the
rear wheels attached to each end of the axle (through
spindles) move over bumps and dips, the axle moves
with the wheels, pivoting at the front while exerting
varying force against the coil springs.

The torsion tube running through the center of the
axle’s width acts as an integral tubular stabilizer bar.
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one rear
wheel are partially transferred to the opposite wheel
to help stabilize body roll.

REMOVAL

NEGATIVE CABLE. ALLOW THE SYSTEM CAPACI­TOR TO DISCHARGE FOR TWO (2) MINUTES. FAIL­URE TO DO THIS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL
AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Unclip the air cleaner cover (two clips) and

move the cover aside.

(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative

cable from its post on the battery.

(3) Block the tire and wheels so the vehicle does
not move once the vehicle parking brake lever is
released.

(4) Remove the transmission shift knob as neces­sary.

(5) Remove the screws attaching the center con­sole, then remove the center console.

(6) Grasp the parking brake lever output cable by
hand and pull upward. Continue pulling on the cable
until an appropriate sized pin punch (drill bit or lock­ing pin) can be inserted sufficiently through the hole
in the left side of the lever mounting bracket (Fig. 3).
This will lock the parking brake automatic adjust­ment mechanism in place and take tension off the
parking brake cables. Slowly release the output
cable. There should now be slack in the cables.

WARNING: THE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTING FEATURE
OF THIS PARKING BRAKE LEVER CONTAINS A
CLOCKSPRING LOADED TO APPROXIMATELY 19
POUNDS. DO NOT RELEASE THE AUTOMATIC
ADJUSTER LOCKOUT DEVICE UNLESS THE REAR
PARKING BRAKE CABLES AND EQUALIZER ARE
CONNECTED TO THE LEVER OUTPUT CABLE.
KEEP HANDS OUT OF AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
SECTOR AND PAWL AREA. FAILURE TO OBSERVE
CAUTION IN HANDLING THIS MECHANISM COULD
LEAD TO SERIOUS INJURY.

WARNING: WHEN REPAIRS TO THE PARKING
BRAKE LEVER OR CABLES ARE REQUIRED, THE
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER MUST BE LOADED AND
LOCKED OUT TO AVOID POSSIBLE INJURY. THE
LEVER ADJUSTMENT MECHANISM CAN BE
LOADED AND LOCKED OUT AS OUTLINED IN THIS
PROCEDURE.

WARNING: THE AIRBAG SYSTEM IS A COMPLEX
ELECTROMECHANICAL UNIT. BEFORE ATTEMPT­ING TO SERVICE ANY COMPONENT NEAR THE
OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER (ORC),
FIRST DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY

Fig. 3 Pin Punch Installed

1 - PARKING BRAKE LEVER
2 - OUTPUT CABLE
3 - PIN PUNCH

(7) Remove the rear parking brake cables from the
parking brake cable equalizer (Fig. 4).

(8) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(9) Remove both rear tire and wheel assemblies
from the vehicle.

2 - 30 REAR SUSPENSION PT

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR (Continued)

(11) On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes:

(a) Remove the bolts securing the disc brake flex

hoses to the axle trailing arms.

(b) Remove the disc brake caliper guide pin
bolts, then the calipers from the disc brake adapt­ers (Fig. 6).

(c) Hang the calipers out of the way using a wire
hanger or bungee cord.

(d) Remove the brake rotor from the rear hub
and bearing.
(12) Remove the dust cap from the rear hub and

bearing (Fig. 5).

(13) Remove the hub and bearing retaining nut

from the spindle, then remove the hub and bearing
(Fig. 5).

(14) On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes,

Fig. 4 Parking Brake Cables At Equalizer

1 - LEVER OUTPUT CABLE
2 - EQUALIZER
3 - REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLES

(10) On vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes:

(a) Remove the bolts securing the drum brake

flex hoses to the axle trailing arms.

(b) Remove the brake drum retaining clips, then

the drums (Fig. 5).

remove the upper return spring, both shoe hold-down
clips, then spread the rear parking brake shoes apart
at the top enough to clear the shoe anchor and
remove the parking brake shoes as an assembly from
the disc brake adapter (Fig. 7).

(15) On vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes,

to remove the parking brake cables from the brake
support plates:

1 - AXLE
2 - SEAL
3 - DRUM BRAKE WITH SUPPORT PLATE
4 - HUB AND BEARING
5 - HUB NUT
6 - BRAKE DRUM
7 - DUST CAP
8 - RETAINER CLIP

Fig. 5 Rear Brake Mounting To Axle

9 - HUB AND BEARING
10 - DISC BRAKE ADAPTER
11 - SEAL
12 - SPINDLE
13 - HUB NUT
14 - BRAKE ROTOR
15 - RETAINER CLIP

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 31

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR (Continued)

(b) Remove the actuating spring between the
brake shoe adjustment lever and the brake shoe
(Fig. 9).

(c) Remove the parking brake cable from the
rear brake support plate. The parking brake cable
can be removed from brake support plate using a

1

⁄2inch box wrench to compress the locking fingers

on the parking brake cable retainer (Fig. 10).

Fig. 6 Rear Disc Brakes

1 - DISC BRAKE ADAPTER
2 - GUIDE PIN BOLTS
3 - HUB AND BEARING
4 - BRAKE ROTOR
5 - RETAINER CLIP
6 - DUST CAP
7 - NUT
8 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER

Fig. 7 Parking Brake Shoes

1 - UPPER RETURN SPRING
2 - SHOE HOLD DOWN CLIPS
3 - ADJUSTER
4 - LOWER REAR SPRING
5 - DISC BRAKE ADAPTER

(a) Remove the parking brake cable from the

parking brake actuating lever (Fig. 8).

Fig. 8 Actuator Lever

1 - PARK BRAKE ACTUATING LEVER
2 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
3 - BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLIES
4 - REAR SPINDLE

Fig. 9 Actuating Spring

1 - BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT LEVER
2 - ADJUSTMENT LEVER ACTUATING SPRING
3 - PARK BRAKE CABLE

2 - 32 REAR SUSPENSION PT

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR (Continued)

Fig. 10 Parking Brake Cable Removal

1 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
2 - 1/288 WRENCH
3 - REAR BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE
4 - PARK BRAKE CABLE RETAINER

(16) To remove the parking brake cable from the
disc brake adapter on vehicles equipped with rear
disc brakes:

(a) Remove the parking brake actuating lever

from the parking brake cable (Fig. 11).

(b) Remove the parking brake cable from the
rear disc brake adapter. The parking brake cable
can be removed from the disc brake adapter using

1

⁄2inch offset box wrench to compress the locking

a
fingers on the parking brake cable retainer (Fig.

12).

Fig. 12 Parking Brake Cable Removal

1 - CABLE RETAINER
2 - OFFSET BOX WRENCH
3 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE

(17) Remove the two bolts on each axle trailing
arm securing the cable and routing brackets to the
arm (Fig. 13).

Fig. 11 Parking Brake Actuator Lever

1 - SHOE ACTUATOR LEVER
2 - SHIELD MOUNTING SCREWS
3 - REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLE

Fig. 13 Cable Routing Bracket Fasteners

1 - CABLE
2 - ARM
3 - FASTENERS

(18) Pull cable through hole in trailing arm.

(19) On vehicles equipped with antilock brakes,
remove the bolts securing the wheel speed sensors to
the disc brake adapters (Fig. 14). Remove the sensors
from the adapters.

(20) Remove the four bolts securing each brake
shoe support plate (drum brakes) or disc brake
adapter, and spindle to the axle (Fig. 5).

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 33

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR (Continued)

INSPECTION

Verify proper torque of all axle fasteners.

Inspect the axle looking for damage or bending. If
damage is evident, the axle must be replaced.

Inspect for broken or cracked welds at each end of
the twist beam within the axle. Inspect for broken or
cracked welds at each axle trailing arm bushing bore.
If a problem is present, the axle must be replaced.

Inspect the bushings at the leading ends of the
axle trailing arms. Look for damage or deterioration
of the bushings. Make sure the bushings are centered
side-to-side in their bore. If a problem exists, the
bushings must be replaced. They can be replaced sep­arately from the axle.

INSTALLATION

(1) If removed, install the trailing arm forward
brackets on each side of the axle in the following

Fig. 14 Wheel Speed Sensor

1 - SHOCK ABSORBER
2 - RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR

(21) On each side of the vehicle, remove the sup­port plate or disc brake adapter, and the spindle from
the axle. Hang the support plate out of the way using
a wire hanger or bungee cord.

(22) Remove the bolt securing the watts link bell
crank to the center of the axle (Fig. 15).

(23) If equipped with a rear stabilizer bar, remove
the bolts securing the stabilizer bar cushion retainers
to the rear axle (Fig. 16), then remove the stabilizer
bar from the axle.

(24) Position a transmission jack or equivalent
under the center of the axle raising it enough to sup­port the axle.

(25) Remove the shock absorber lower mounting
bolts and nuts at the axle (Fig. 15).

(26) Lower the transmission jack until the coil
springs can be removed from the axle.

(27) Remove the coil springs and rubber isolators
(Fig. 15).

(28) Using an awl, scribe a line marking the loca­tion of the axle trailing arm bracket, side-to-side and
front-to-rear, on the body of the vehicle (Fig. 17).

(29) Remove the bolts securing the trailing arm
forward brackets to the body of the vehicle.

(30) Remove the axle from the vehicle.

(31) To remove the trailing arm forward brackets
from the axle, remove the thru-bolts.

way:

(a) From above the axle, place the bracket down
over the axle trailing arm bushing aligning the
hole in the bracket with the center hole in the
bushing (Fig. 15).

(b) From the outboard side of the axle and
bracket, push the thru-bolt through the bracket
and bushing. The trailing arm bracket thru-

bolts must be installed from the outside, in
toward the center of the axle assembly, other­wise the bolt threaded ends will come in con­tact with the body of the vehicle upon axle
installation on vehicle.

(c) Install the nut on the inboard end of the nut.
Tighten the nut until the bracket has resistance
when turned, but still moves independent of the
axle bushing. It must be fully tightened later, once
the vehicle is at curb height.
(2) Center the axle beam on the transmission jack

standing at axle removal height.

(3) Swing the trailing arms up aligning the brack-

ets with the scribed marks made upon removal (Fig.

17), then install all eight mounting bolts (four per
side). Thread the bolts in, but do not fully tighten.

(4) Tap the axle trailing arm brackets as necessary

to align the brackets to the scribed marks, then
tighten the bolts to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).

(5) Install a rubber isolator on each end of the coil

springs wrapping the rubber fingers around the coil
(Fig. 18). Turn the isolators until the rubber abut­ment butts up against the flat end of the spring coil.

2 - 34 REAR SUSPENSION PT

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR (Continued)

Fig. 15 Rear Suspension

1 - ISOLATORS
2 - JOUNCE BUMPER
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
4 - WATTS LINK (UPPER)

NOTE: Both ends of the coil spring are identical.
Either end of the spring can be the top or bottom.

(6) Place the coil springs on top of the axle spring

perches.

(7) The coil springs require proper orientation to
the body when installed. To do this, turn the coil
springs (along with the rubber isolators) until the
flat end of each upper spring coil lines up with an
imaginary line running parallel with the axle beam
as shown (Fig. 19). Also, make sure that the upper
coils end near the outboard sides of the vehicle and
not 180 degrees of that location.

(8) Raise the transmission jack guiding the coil
springs into the spring mounting brackets on the
body of the vehicle. Raise the jack until the shock
absorber lower mounting bolts can be installed

5 - WATTS LINK (LOWER)
6 - BELL CRANK
7 - AXLE
8 - COIL SPRING

though the axle brackets and shock absorber lower
mounting eyes (Fig. 15).

(9) Install the washer and nut on the end of each
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Tighten the
mounting bolts to a torque of 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.).

(10) Remove the jack.

(11) If equipped with a rear stabilizer bar, hook
the lower ends of the stabilizer bar cushion retainers
into the slots in the back of the axle, then rotate the
opposite end of the retainers upward so the mounting
bolts can be installed. Install the mounting bolt
though each cushion retainer into the threads in the
rear axle (Fig. 16). Tighten the rear stabilizer bar
cushion retainer bolts to a torque of 61 N·m (45 ft.
lbs.).

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 35

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR (Continued)

Fig. 18 Isolator Properly Installed

1 - ISOLATOR ABUTMENT
2 - FINGERS

Fig. 16 Stabilizer Bar Mounting

1 - LINK
2 - STABILIZER BAR
3 - CUSHION
4 - RETAINER

Fig. 17 Marking Bracket Location

1 - SCRIBED LINE
2-AWL
3 - BRACKET

CAUTION: When installing the watts links and bell
crank to the axle, make sure the bell crank is right­side-up. When mounted properly, the words “BACK
UP” should be able to be read from the rear over
the top of the axle (Fig. 20).

(12) Install the bolt from the front securing the

watts link bell crank to the center of the axle (Fig.

15). Place the washer and nut on the end of the

mounting bolt and tighten it to a torque of 149 N·m
(110 ft. lbs.).

(13) On each side of the vehicle, Install the spindle
and the support plate (drum brakes) or disc brake
adapter on the end of the axle (Fig. 5).

(14) Clean the threads of the bolts used to mount
the brake shoe support plates or disc brake adapters,
and the spindles to the axle, then apply Mopart Stud
& Bearing Mount Adhesive or equivalent to the bolt
threads or replace with new mounting bolts.

(15) Install the four bolts securing each brake shoe
support plate or disc brake adapter, and the spindle
to the axle. Tighten the mounting bolts to a torque of
95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

(16) On vehicles equipped with antilock brakes,
install the wheel speed sensors in the disc brake
adapters and install the bolts securing them in place
(Fig. 14). Tighten the wheel speed sensor mounting
bolts to a torque of 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).

(17) Guide the end of each parking brake cable
through hole in the trailing arm towards the brake.

(18) Align the cable routing brackets with their
mounts on the trailing arm. Install the two bolts
securing the cable and routing brackets to the trail­ing arm (Fig. 13). Install and tighten the mounting
bolts to a torque of 11 N·m (100 in. lbs.).

(19) On each side of the vehicle, install the park­ing brake cable into the brake support plate or the
rear disc brake adapter. Be sure the locking fingers
on the cable retainer are expanded once the cable is
pushed all the way into the support plate or brake
adapter hole to ensure the cable is securely held in
place.

2 - 36 REAR SUSPENSION PT

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR (Continued)

Fig. 19 Coil Spring Orientation

1 - IMAGINARY LINE

Fig. 20 Bell Crank

1 - INSTALLATION DIRECTION

(20) On vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes,

on each side of the vehicle:

• Install the parking brake cable on the parking

brake cable actuating lever (Fig. 8).

• Install the actuating spring to the brake shoe

and the brake adjustment lever (Fig. 9).

(21) On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes,
on each side of the vehicle:

• Install the parking brake shoe actuator lever on

the parking brake cable (Fig. 11).

• Install the parking brake shoe assemblies on the

disc brake adapter (Fig. 7).

(22) Install a hub and bearing on each rear spin­dle. Install a NEW hub and bearing retaining nut.
Tighten the retaining nuts to a torque of 217 N·m
(160 ft. lbs.).

(23) Install the hub and bearing dust caps.

NOTE: On vehicles with rear drum brakes, before
installing the drum, it may be necessary to adjust
the rear brakes. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/
MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES - ADJUST­MENTS)

(24) On drum brake equipped vehicles, install the
brake drums.

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 37

AXLE - FRONT WHEEL DRIVE REAR (Continued)

(25) On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes

(Fig. 6):

(a) Install the brake rotors.
(b) Install the disc brake calipers.

(c) Install the caliper guide pin bolts, then
tighten them to a torque of 22 N·m (192 in. lbs.).
(26) Install the bolts securing the disc brake flex

hoses or drum brake flex hoses to the axle trailing
arms.

(27) Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies.

Tighten all wheel nuts to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft.
lbs.).

(28) Lower the vehicle.
(29) Install the rear parking brake cables into the

equalizer on the parking brake lever output cable
(Fig. 4).

(30) Ensure that the parking brake cables are cor-

rectly installed on the equalizer and aligned with the
cable track on the parking brake lever.

WARNING: THE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTING FEATURE
OF THIS PARKING BRAKE LEVER CONTAINS A
CLOCKSPRING LOADED TO APPROXIMATELY 19
POUNDS. DO NOT RELEASE THE AUTOMATIC
ADJUSTER LOCKOUT DEVICE UNLESS THE REAR
PARKING BRAKE CABLES AND EQUALIZER ARE
CONNECTED TO THE LEVER OUTPUT CABLE.
KEEP HANDS OUT OF AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
SECTOR AND PAWL AREA. FAILURE TO OBSERVE
CAUTION IN HANDLING THIS MECHANISM COULD
LEAD TO SERIOUS INJURY.

NOTE: The parking brake lever can only be in the
released position when releasing the automatic
adjuster.

(31) Keeping your hands clear of the automatic

adjuster sector and pawl area, firmly grasp the park­ing brake lever pin punch (drill bit or locking pin if a
new mechanism has been installed) (Fig. 3), then
quickly remove it from the parking brake lever mech­anism. This will allow the parking brake lever mech­anism to automatically adjust the parking brake
cables.

(32) Cycle the parking brake lever once to position

the parking brake cables, then return the parking
brake lever its released position.

(33) Check the rear wheels of the vehicle. They

should rotate freely without excessive dragging with
the lever in its released position.

(34) Install the center console and its mounting

screws.

(35) Install the shift knob if previously removed.
(36) Apply the parking brake.
(37) Remove the blocks from the tires and wheels.
(38) Reconnect the battery negative terminal.

(39) Reinstall the air cleaner cover.
(40) Place the vehicle on an alignment rack or

drive-on hoist.

(41) With the vehicle at curb height, tighten both
trailing arm to mounting bracket pivot thru-bolts to
a torque of 122 N·m (90 ft. lbs.).

(42) Check the rear wheel alignment (Refer to 2 ­SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE). If necessary, thrust angle may be
adjusted by loosening the axle training arm bracket
bolts to the body and shifting the axle forward or
rearward, then retightening the bolts to a torque of
54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).

AXLE PIVOT BUSHING

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove both rear tire and wheel assemblies
from the vehicle.

(3) Remove the bolts securing the rear brake flex
hoses (and wheel speed sensor cable on ABS models)
to the vehicle body immediately behind the axle trail­ing arm forward brackets.

(4) Remove the two bolts on each axle trailing arm
securing the parking brake cables and routing brack­ets to the arm (Fig. 13).

(5) Move the parking brake cables from their
mounting positions away from the bottom of the
trailing arm pivot bushing and the forward bracket.

(6) Remove the bolt securing the watts link bell
crank to the center of the axle (Fig. 15).

(7) Position a transmission jack or equivalent
under the center of the axle raising it just enough to
support the axle.

(8) Using an awl, scribe a line marking the loca­tion of the axle trailing arm bracket, side-to-side and
front-to-rear, on the body of the vehicle (Fig. 17).

(9) Remove the bolts securing the trailing arm for­ward brackets to the body of the vehicle.

(10) Using the lower shock mounts as a pivot
point, pry down on the forward end of the trailing
arm and place a block of wood between the top of the
arm and the body of the vehicle just to the rear of
the forward mounting bracket. Be careful not to
pinch any hoses or cables.

(11) Remove the pivot thru-bolt securing the for­ward bracket to the trailing arm.

2 - 38 REAR SUSPENSION PT

AXLE PIVOT BUSHING (Continued)

(12) Place Receiver, Special Tool 8405-1, on Press,

Special Tool C-4212F, and tighten the set screw (Fig.

21).
(13) Place the special tool assembly over the bush-

ing to be replaced as shown (Fig. 21). When properly
installed, the screw drive on the special tool will be
toward the center of the vehicle. Note the curve on
the axle trailing arm. This curve prevents the tool
from being properly installed in the opposite direc­tion.

Fig. 21 Bushing Removal

1 - TRAILING ARM
2 - BUSHING
3 - SCREW DRIVE
4 - CURVE

(14) Tighten the screw drive, pressing the bushing

out of the trailing arm into the receiver.

(15) Remove the tool and the bushing from the

trailing arm. Discard the used bushing.

(16) If the opposite side bushing needs to be

removed, repeat Step 11 through Step 15 on the
opposite bushing.

INSTALLATION

NOTE: To ease and attain proper installation of the
bushing using Special Tool 8405, use MoparT Rub­ber Bushing Installation Lube as indicated in the
following step.

(1) Apply Mopart Rubber Bushing Installation

Lube to the outside edges of the NEW bushing. Also,
lubricate the inside of the Installer, Special Tool
8405-2 with the special lube.

(2) Place the stepped end of the Installer on the

end of the trailing arm bushing sleeve that has the
curved flange at the arm (Fig. 22).

(3) Place the lubricated bushing inside the large

opening in the Installer.

(4) Place the Press, Special Tool C-4212F, with
Receiver, Special Tool 8405-1, installed, over the arm,
Installer and bushing as shown (Fig. 22). When prop­erly installed, the screw drive on the special tool will
be toward the center of the vehicle. Note the curve on
the axle trailing arm. This curve prevents the tool
from being properly installed in the opposite direc­tion.

Fig. 22 Bushing Installation

1 - TRAILING ARM
2 - BUSHING
3 - SCREW DRIVE
4 - CURVE

(5) Tighten the screw drive, pressing the bushing
into the trailing arm sleeve. Do not over-install the
bushing; the bushing can be pushed out the other
side, into the Receiver. Push the bushing in until
freed from the installer and centered in the trailing
arm sleeve. The outer lips of the bushing must hang
out past the end of the sleeve on each side of the
trailing arm.

(6) Remove the tools from the trailing arm.

(7) If the opposite side bushing needs to be
installed, repeat Step 1 through Step 6 on the oppo­site side.

(8) Install the trailing arm forward bracket(s) on
the axle using the following way:

(a) From above the axle, place the bracket down
over the axle trailing arm bushing aligning the
hole in the bracket with the center hole in the
bushing (Fig. 15).

(b) From the outboard side of the axle and
bracket, push the thru-bolt through the bracket
and bushing. The trailing arm bracket thru-

bolts must be installed from the outside, in
toward the center of the axle assembly, other­wise the bolt threaded ends will come in con­tact with the body of the vehicle upon axle
installation on vehicle.

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 39

AXLE PIVOT BUSHING (Continued)

(c) Install the nut on the inboard end of the nut.
Tighten the nut until the bracket has resistance
when turned, but still moves independent of the
axle bushing. It must be fully tightened later, once
the vehicle is at curb height.
(9) Remove the wood block between the arm and

body of the vehicle.

(10) Swing the trailing arms up aligning the

brackets with the scribed marks made upon removal
(Fig. 17), then install all eight mounting bolts (four
per side). Thread the bolts in, but do not fully
tighten.

(11) Tap the axle trailing arm brackets as neces-

sary to align the brackets to the scribed marks, then
tighten the bolts to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).

(12) Remove the jack.

CAUTION: When installing the watts links and bell
crank to the axle, make sure the bell crank is right­side-up. When mounted properly, the words “BACK
UP” should be able to be read from the rear over
the top of the axle (Fig. 20).

(13) Install the bolt from the front securing the

watts link bell crank to the center of the axle (Fig.

15). Place the washer and nut on the end of the
mounting bolt and tighten it to a torque of 149 N·m
(110 ft. lbs.).

(14) Move the parking brake cables to their origi-

nal mounting position below the axle pivot bushing
on the inboard side of the trailing arm.

(15) Align the cable routing brackets with their

mounts on the trailing arm. Install the two bolts
securing the cable and routing brackets to the trail­ing arm (Fig. 13). Install and tighten the mounting
bolts to a torque of 11 N·m (100 in. lbs.).

(16) Make sure the parking brake cable and grom-

met is still in the proper position at the body access
hole.

(17) Install the bolts securing the brake flex hoses

(and wheel speed sensor cable on ABS models) to the
vehicle body immediately behind the axle trailing
arm forward brackets.

(18) Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies.

Tighten all wheel nuts to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft.
lbs.).

(19) Lower the vehicle.
(20) Place the vehicle on an alignment rack or

drive-on hoist.

(21) With the vehicle at curb height, tighten both

trailing arm to mounting bracket pivot thru-bolts to
a torque of 122 N·m (90 ft. lbs.).

HUB / BEARING

DESCRIPTION

The rear wheel bearing and wheel mounting hub
used on this vehicle are a one-piece sealed unit or
hub and bearing assembly. It is permanently lubri­cated when assembled and is sealed for life. There is
no periodic lubrication or maintenance recommended
for these units.

The hub and bearing is mounted on the spindle
which is bolted to the axle (Fig. 23). The hub and
bearing is secured to the spindle using a special nut.

Vehicles equipped with antilock brakes have rear
hub and bearings with the tone wheel for the rear
wheel speed sensors pressed onto the hub.

The only serviceable components of the hub and
bearing are the wheel mounting studs pressed into
the hub.

OPERATION

The hub and bearing adapts the tire and wheel
assembly to the axle mounted spindle. It’s bearing
allows the tire and wheel assembly to rotate freely on
the vehicle. The brake drum or brake rotor mounts to
the hub’s wheel mounting studs aiding in stopping
the vehicle when required.

On vehicles equipped with antilock brakes, the
tone wheel pressed onto the hub allows the brake
system to sense wheel motion.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING (REAR)

The hub and bearing is designed for the life of the
vehicle and requires no type of periodic maintenance.
The following procedure may be used for diagnosing
the condition of the hub and bearing.

With the wheel, disc brake rotor or brake drum
removed, rotate the hub. Any roughness or resistance
to rotation may indicate dirt intrusion or a failed hub
bearing. If the bearing exhibits any of these condi­tions during diagnosis, the hub and bearing will
require replacement. The bearing is not serviceable
alone.

Damaged bearing seals and the resulting excessive
grease loss may also require hub and bearing
replacement. Moderate grease weapage from the
bearing is considered normal and should not require
replacement of the wheel bearing.

To diagnose a bent hub, refer to ROTOR in
BRAKES for the procedure on measuring hub
runout.

2 - 40 REAR SUSPENSION PT

HUB / BEARING (Continued)

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly.

(3) On vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes,
remove the brake drum retaining clips, then the
drum (Fig. 23).

(4) On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes:

(a) Remove the disc brake caliper guide pin
bolts, then the caliper from the disc brake adapter
(Fig. 24).

(b) Hang the caliper out of the way using a wire
hanger or bungee cord.

(c) Remove the brake rotor retaining clips (Fig.

23).

(d) Remove the brake rotor from the rear hub
and bearing.
(5) Remove the dust cap from the hub and bearing

(Fig. 23).

1 - DISC BRAKE ADAPTER
2 - GUIDE PIN BOLTS
3 - HUB AND BEARING
4 - BRAKE ROTOR
5 - RETAINER CLIP
6 - DUST CAP
7 - NUT
8 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER

Fig. 24 Rear Disc Brakes

1 - AXLE
2 - SEAL
3 - DRUM BRAKE WITH SUPPORT PLATE
4 - HUB AND BEARING
5 - HUB NUT
6 - BRAKE DRUM
7 - DUST CAP
8 - RETAINER CLIP

Fig. 23 Rear Brake Mounting To Axle

9 - HUB AND BEARING
10 - DISC BRAKE ADAPTER
11 - SEAL
12 - SPINDLE
13 - HUB NUT
14 - BRAKE ROTOR
15 - RETAINER CLIP

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 41

HUB / BEARING (Continued)

(6) Remove the hub and bearing retaining nut

from the spindle, then remove the hub and bearing
(Fig. 23).

INSTALLATION

(1) Install the hub and bearing on the spindle (Fig.

23). Install a NEW hub and bearing retaining nut.
Tighten the retaining nuts to a torque of 217 N·m
(160 ft. lbs.).

(2) Install the hub and bearing dust caps.
(3) On drum brake equipped vehicles, install the

brake drum.

(4) On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes

(Fig. 24):

(a) Install the brake rotor.

(b) Install the disc brake caliper.

(c) Install the caliper guide pin bolts, then
tighten them to a torque of 22 N·m (192 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the rear tire and wheel assembly.

Tighten all wheel nuts to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft.
lbs.).

(6) Lower the vehicle.

JOUNCE BUMPER

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
ABSORBER

Inspect the shock absorber for damage and evi­dence of fluid running from the upper end of the
fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a stream of
fluid running down the side of the reservoir tube and
dripping off lower end of unit). A slight amount of
seepage between the shaft and shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the shock
absorber.

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

(3) Position a transmission jack or equivalent
under the center of the axle raising it enough to sup­port the axle.

(4) Remove the shock absorber lower mounting
bolt and nut at the axle (Fig. 25).

REMOVAL

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Grasp the jounce bumper and with a twisting
motion, remove the jounce bumper from the bracket
mounted to the body.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: Do not use any type of lubricant to aid in
jounce bumper installation. Premature jounce
bumper failure issues could result.

(1) Carefully twist and push the jounce bumper
into the bracket mounted to the body of the vehicle
until it bottoms in the bracket.

(2) Lower the vehicle.

SHOCK ABSORBER

DESCRIPTION

There is one gas-charged shock absorber on each
side of the rear suspension (Fig. 25). The top of each
shock absorber is bolted to a bracket attached to the
body of the vehicle. The bottom of each shock
absorber is bolted to the rear axle.

Fig. 25 Shock Absorber Mounting

1 - SHOCK ABSORBER

(5) Remove the upper mounting bolt (Fig. 25), then

remove the shock absorber from the vehicle.

INSTALLATION

(1) Install the shock absorber to the vehicle by
first attaching the top shock absorber eye to the body
bracket using the upper mounting bolt (Fig. 25). Do
not fully tighten the bolt at this time.

(2) Raise or lower the jack as necessary until the
shock absorber lower mounting bolt can be installed
though the axle flange and the shock absorber lower
mounting eye (Fig. 25).

2 - 42 REAR SUSPENSION PT

SHOCK ABSORBER (Continued)

(3)

Install the washer and nut on the end of the
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Tighten the lower
mounting bolt to a torque of 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.).

(4) Tighten the upper shock absorber mounting

bolt to a torque of 99 N·m (73 ft. lbs.).

(5) Remove the jack.
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten all

wheel nuts to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(7) Lower the vehicle.

SPINDLE

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/

REAR - WARNING)

(2) Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly.
(3) On vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes:

(a) Remove the bolts securing the drum brake

flex hose to the axle trailing arm.

(b) Remove the brake drum retaining clips, then

the drum (Fig. 26).

(4) On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes:

(a) Remove the bolts securing the disc brake flex

hose to the axle trailing arm.

(b) Remove the disc brake caliper guide pin
bolts, then the caliper from the disc brake adapter
(Fig. 27).

(c) Hang the caliper out of the way using a wire
hanger or bungee cord.

(d) Remove the brake rotor from the rear hub
and bearing.
(5) Remove the dust cap from the rear hub and

bearing (Fig. 26).

(6) Remove the hub and bearing retaining nut

from the spindle, then remove the hub and bearing
(Fig. 26).

(7) Remove the two bolts on each axle trailing arm

securing the parking brake cable and routing brack­ets to the axle trailing arm (Fig. 28).

(8) On vehicles equipped with antilock brakes,

remove the bolt securing the wheel speed sensor to
the disc brake adapter (Fig. 29). Remove the sensor
from the adapter.

(9) Remove the four bolts securing the brake shoe

support plate (drum brakes) or disc brake adapter,
and spindle to the axle (Fig. 26).

1 - AXLE
2 - SEAL
3 - DRUM BRAKE WITH SUPPORT PLATE
4 - HUB AND BEARING
5 - HUB NUT
6 - BRAKE DRUM
7 - DUST CAP
8 - RETAINER CLIP

Fig. 26 Rear Brake Mounting To Axle

9 - HUB AND BEARING
10 - DISC BRAKE ADAPTER
11 - SEAL
12 - SPINDLE
13 - HUB NUT
14 - BRAKE ROTOR
15 - RETAINER CLIP

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 43

SPINDLE (Continued)

Fig. 27 Rear Disc Brakes

1 - DISC BRAKE ADAPTER
2 - GUIDE PIN BOLTS
3 - HUB AND BEARING
4 - BRAKE ROTOR
5 - RETAINER CLIP
6 - DUST CAP
7 - NUT
8 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER

1 - SHOCK ABSORBER
2 - RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR

NOTE: When performing the following step, use
new mounting bolts or clean and apply MoparT
Stud & Bearing Mount Adhesive or equivalent to the
original mounting bolt threads before reuse.

Fig. 29 Wheel Speed Sensor

Fig. 28 Cable Routing Bracket Fasteners

1 - CABLE
2 - ARM
3 - FASTENERS

(10) Move the support plate or disc brake adapter
away from the axle. At the same time, loosen the
spindle from the axle and remove it from the back of
the support plate or disc brake adapter.

INSTALLATION

(1) Place a new seal on the spindle (Fig. 26).

(2) Install the spindle from the back side into the
support plate (drum brakes) or disc brake adapter,
then place it into its mounting position on the end of
the axle (Fig. 26).

(3) Place the support plate (drum brakes) or disc
brake adapter up against the spindle, then install
the four bolts securing the brake shoe support plate
or disc brake adapter, and the spindle to the axle.
Tighten the mounting bolts to a torque of 95 N·m (70
ft. lbs.).

(4) On vehicles equipped with antilock brakes,
install the wheel speed sensor in the disc brake
adapter and install the bolt securing it in place (Fig.

29). Tighten the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt to
a torque of 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).

(5) Align the parking brake cable routing brackets
with their mounts on the trailing arm. Install the
two bolts securing the cable and routing brackets to
the trailing arm (Fig. 28). Install and tighten the
mounting bolts to a torque of 11 N·m (100 in. lbs.).

(6) Install the hub and bearing on the spindle (Fig.

26). Install a NEW hub and bearing retaining nut.
Tighten the retaining nut to a torque of 217 N·m
(160 ft. lbs.).

(7) Install the hub and bearing dust cap.

NOTE: On vehicles with rear drum brakes, before
installing the drum, it may be necessary to adjust
the rear brakes. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/
MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES - ADJUST­MENTS)

(8) On drum brake equipped vehicles, install the
brake drum.

2 - 44 REAR SUSPENSION PT

SPINDLE (Continued)

(9) On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes

(Fig. 27):

(a) Install the brake rotor.
(b) Install the disc brake caliper.

(c) Install the caliper guide pin bolts, then
tighten them to a torque of 22 N·m (192 in. lbs.).
(10)

Install the bolts securing the disc brake flex

hose or drum brake flex hose to the axle trailing arm.

(11) Install the rear tire and wheel assembly.

Tighten all wheel nuts to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft.
lbs.).

(12) Lower the vehicle.

SPRING

DESCRIPTION

The springs used on the rear suspension of this

vehicle are the coil type (Fig. 30). They are mounted

straight above the rear axle beam in line with the
rear wheels. A spring isolator is attached to each end
of the coil springs. Coil springs come in various
heights, be sure the correct spring is in use.

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove both rear tire and wheel assemblies
from the vehicle.

(3) Remove the bolt securing the watts link bell
crank to the center of the axle (Fig. 30).

1 - ISOLATORS
2 - JOUNCE BUMPER
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
4 - WATTS LINK (UPPER)

Fig. 30 Rear Suspension

5 - WATTS LINK (LOWER)
6 - BELL CRANK
7 - AXLE
8 - COIL SPRING

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 45

SPRING (Continued)

(4) If equipped with a rear stabilizer bar, remove
the bolts securing the stabilizer bar cushion retainers
to the rear axle (Fig. 31), then remove the stabilizer
bar from the axle.

Fig. 32 Isolator Properly Installed

1 - ISOLATOR ABUTMENT
2 - FINGERS

Fig. 31 Stabilizer Bar Mounting

1 - LINK
2 - STABILIZER BAR
3 - CUSHION
4 - RETAINER

(5) Position a transmission jack or equivalent
under the center of the axle raising it enough to sup­port the axle.

(6) Remove the shock absorber lower mounting
bolts and nuts at the axle (Fig. 30).

(7) Lower the transmission jack until the coil
springs can be removed from the axle.

(8) Remove the coil springs and rubber isolators
(Fig. 30).

INSTALLATION

(1) Install a rubber isolator on each end of the coil
springs wrapping the rubber fingers around the coil
(Fig. 32). Turn the isolators until the rubber abut­ment butts up against the flat end of the spring coil.

NOTE: Both ends of the coil spring are identical.
Either end of the spring can be the top or bottom.

(3) The coil springs require proper orientation to
the body when installed. To do this, turn the coil
springs (along with the rubber isolators) until the
flat end of each upper spring coil lines up with an
imaginary line running parallel with the axle beam
as shown (Fig. 33). Also, make sure that the upper
coils end near the outboard sides of the vehicle and
not 180 degrees of that location.

(4) Raise the transmission jack guiding the coil
springs into the spring mounting brackets on the
body of the vehicle. Raise the jack until the shock
absorber lower mounting bolts can be installed
though the axle brackets and shock absorber lower
mounting eyes (Fig. 30).

(5) Install the washer and nut on the end of each
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Tighten the
mounting bolts to a torque of 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.).

(6) Remove the jack.

(7) If equipped with a rear stabilizer bar, hook the
lower ends of the stabilizer bar cushion retainers into
the slots in the back of the axle, then rotate the
opposite end of the retainers upward so the mounting
bolts can be installed. Install the mounting bolt
though each cushion retainer into the threads in the
rear axle (Fig. 31). Tighten the rear stabilizer bar
cushion retainer bolts to a torque of 61 N·m (45 ft.
lbs.).

(2) Place the coil springs on top of the axle spring

perches.

CAUTION: When installing the watts links and bell
crank to the axle, make sure the bell crank is right­side-up. When mounted properly, the words “BACK
UP” should be able to be read from the rear over
the top of the axle (Fig. 34).

2 - 46 REAR SUSPENSION PT

SPRING (Continued)

1 - IMAGINARY LINE

Fig. 34 Bell Crank

1 - INSTALLATION DIRECTION

Fig. 33 Coil Spring Orientation

(8) Install the bolt from the front securing the
watts link bell crank to the center of the axle (Fig.

30). Place the washer and nut on the end of the
mounting bolt and tighten it to a torque of 149 N·m
(110 ft. lbs.).

(9) Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten all wheel nuts to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft.
lbs.).

(10) Lower the vehicle.

(11) Verify proper vehicle curb height. (Refer to 2 ­SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 47

STABILIZER BAR

DESCRIPTION

Some versions of this vehicle are equipped with a
rear stabilizer bar. The stabilizer bar interconnects
the rear axle with the frame rails of the vehicle (Fig.

35).

Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the rear frame
rails of the vehicle is through 2 rubber-isolator stabi­lizer bar links. The stabilizer bar attachment to the
axle is done utilizing two rubber isolated cushions
and retainers.

OPERATION

Jounce and rebound movements affecting one side
of the rear suspension are partially transmitted to
the opposite side of the rear suspension to stabilize
body roll.

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove both rear wheel and tire assemblies
from the vehicle.

(3) Remove the nut from the end of each rear sta­bilizer bar link bolt fastening the bar to the link (Fig.

35). Pull the bolt out far enough to free the stabilizer
bar.

(4) While holding the rear stabilizer bar, remove
the bolts securing the cushion retainers to the rear
axle, then remove the cushion retainers, cushions
and stabilizer bar from the vehicle as an assembly.

(5) To remove the cushions from the stabilizer bar,
refer to stabilizer bar cushions found in this section.

INSTALLATION

(1) To install the cushions and retainers on the
stabilizer bar, refer to stabilizer bar cushions found
in this section.

(2) Install the stabilizer bar, cushions and retain­ers on the vehicle as an assembly.

(3) Hook the lower ends of the cushion retainers in
the slot in the back of the axle, then rotate the oppo­site end of the retainers upward so the mounting
bolts can be installed. Install the mounting bolt
though each cushion retainer, into the threads in the
rear axle (Fig. 35). Tighten the rear stabilizer bar
cushion retainer bolts at the axle to a torque of 61
N·m (45 ft. lbs.).

(4) Install each stabilizer bar link bolt and nut
attaching the ends of the stabilizer bar to the links

Fig. 35 Bar And Link Mounting (Right Side Shown)

1 - LINK
2 - STABILIZER BAR
3 - CUSHION
4 - RETAINER

(Fig. 35). Do not tighten the bolt and nut at this
time.

(5) Install both tire and wheel assemblies on the
vehicle. Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half
specification. Repeat the tightening sequence, this
time, to full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(6) Lower the vehicle to ground level (curb height).

(7) Tighten the stabilizer bar link bolts and nuts to
a torque of 65 N·m (48 ft. lbs.).

STABILIZER BAR CUSHIONS

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Remove the rear stabilizer bar from the axle
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR/STABILIZER BAR

- REMOVAL).

(2) Bend back the crimp tab at the top of the
retainer which secures the two halves of each cush­ion retainer together. Remove the retainer halves
(Fig. 35).

(3) The cushions can be removed from the bar uti­lizing the preformed slit in each cushion and peeling
them off the bar.

2 - 48 REAR SUSPENSION PT

STABILIZER BAR CUSHIONS (Continued)

INSTALLATION

(1) Install the cushions on the stabilizer bar by
opening the slit in each cushion and wrapping it
around the bar. When installed properly, the slit in
the cushion should face toward the front of the car
once the bar is installed.

(2) Perform the following on each stabilizer bar
retainer:

(a) Hook the lower end of each retainer halve to

the other (Fig. 35).

(b) Install the two halves of the retainer over
the cushions, matching the contour of each retainer
with its cushion. The slit in the cushion should
face straight toward the forward halve of the
retainer.

(c) Fold the crimp tab on the forward retainer
halve over the rear halve crimping the two halves
together.
(3) Install the stabilizer bar on the rear axle.

(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR/STABILIZER BAR

- INSTALLATION)

STABILIZER BAR LINK

(5) Tighten the stabilizer bar link upper bolt and

lower nut to a torque of 65 N·m (48 ft. lbs.).

WATTS LINK ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION

The watts link assembly consists of a bell crank
mounted to the rear axle and two links extending
from the bell crank to brackets mounted to the body
of the vehicle (Fig. 37).

The cast iron bell crank has a non—serviceable
sealed—for—life bearing mounted in the center of it
through which it is fastened to the axle. It also has
the words “BACK UP” cast into one side of it indicat­ing the installation direction when mounted to the
axle (Fig. 36). Although the pivot may look identical
end to end, it is not and must be installed with the
words “BACK UP” toward the back of the vehicle fac­ing upright in order to avoid premature bearing fail­ure.

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove the appropriate rear wheel and tire
assembly from the vehicle.

(3) Remove the nut and bolt from the lower end of
the stabilizer bar link attaching it to the stabilizer
bar (Fig. 35).

(4) Remove the bolt retaining the link to the rear
frame rail (Fig. 35), then remove the stabilizer bar
link from the vehicle.

INSTALLATION

(1) Reinstall stabilizer bar link, starting the bolt
retaining the link to frame rail (Fig. 35). Do not
tighten the bolt at this time.

(2) Install the lower bolt and nut attaching the
stabilizer bar link to the stabilizer bar (Fig. 35). Do
not tighten the bolt and nut at this time.

(3) Install tire and wheel assembly on the vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Repeat the tightening sequence, this time, to
full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(4) Lower the vehicle to ground level (curb height).

Fig. 36 Bell Crank

1 - INSTALLATION DIRECTION

The upper and lower links both have ball joints on
one end and bushings on the other. The ball joint
ends connect to the bell crank and the bushing ends
connect to a bracket on the body. The upper link
extends from the upper hole machined into the bell
crank to the bracket on the right side of the vehicle.
The lower link extends from the lower hole machined
into the bell crank to the bracket on the left side of
the vehicle. Although the links look like outer tie
rods, no attempt should be made to adjust them.
They are fixed to a set length at the factory and
require no maintenance. The bushings on the links
are not serviceable.

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 49

WATTS LINK ASSEMBLY (Continued)

OPERATION

The watts link assembly serves the same purpose
as a track bar. That is, it is used to control rear axle
lateral movement and provides cross-car location of
the axle. Unlike a track bar, the watts link assembly
offers more consistent handling and stability at vary­ing suspension heights, either lightly loaded or fully
laden. As the suspension lowers or raises, the watts
link assembly compensates by rotating the bell crank
in the desired direction. This rotation simulates
shortening or lengthening of the links. Since there is
one link on each side, the change affects each side of
the suspension evenly.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATTS LINK
ASSEMBLY

Inspect each link looking for signs of contact with
an object that has caused damage to the link. If a
link is bent or damaged, replace it. Do not attempt to
repair or straighten a watts link.

Verify there is not excessive play in the ball joint
end of each link. Check to make sure the ball joint
boots are not torn. Verify the stakes are tightly
securing the ball joint forging to the link. Replace the
links as necessary. Do not attempt to remove the ball
joint from a link or re-stake it. Although it may
appear so, the ball joints cannot be serviced sepa­rately from the watts links.

Inspect the link bushings for signs of damage or
deterioration. If damage or deterioration is present,
replace the link. The isolator bushings cannot be ser­viced separately.

Verify the bell crank is installed properly. From the
rear of the vehicle, the words “BACK UP” should be
able to be read on the upper half of the bell crank
extending above the axle. If not, remove the bell
crank and remount it correctly. If the bell crank is
not correctly mounted, the watts link assembly will
not operate properly.

Inspect the bell crank for signs of damage. Inspect
for excessive play in the bearing. With the links dis­connected, rotate the bell crank. Any roughness or
resistance to rotate may indicate dirt intrusion or a
failed bearing. If the bell crank exhibits any of these
conditions, replace the bell crank.

WATTS BELL CRANK

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) Remove the nut securing the bell crank pivot
bolt in the center of the axle (Fig. 37).

(3) With the bolt still installed, slide the bell crank
away from the axle just enough to remove the nuts
securing both links to the bell crank (Fig. 37).
Remove the nuts.

(4) Install the Remover, Special Tool MB991113, on
each link ball joint at the bell crank and release ball
joint from the bell crank.

(5) Remove the pivot bolt and bell crank from the
vehicle.

INSTALLATION

(1) Install the pivot bolt through the front of the
watts link bell crank (Fig. 37). Make sure the words
“BACK UP” are towards the rear (Fig. 38).

(2) Start the pivot bolt with the bell crank
attached into the front of the axle center mounting
hole (Fig. 37).

CAUTION: Although both ends of the bell crank
appear to be the same, they are not. When install­ing the watts links and bell crank, make sure the
bell crank is properly positioned. When mounted
properly, the words “BACK UP” should be able to
be read from the rear over the top of the axle (Fig.

38).

NOTE: The upper link extends from the right side of
the vehicle to the upper end of the bell crank while
the lower link extends from the left side of the vehi­cle to the lower end of the bell crank.

(3) Install the upper and lower links to the bell
crank (Fig. 37). Install the nuts on the ball joint
studs and tighten them to a torque of 14 N·m (10 ft.
lbs.) plus an additional 180° turn after torque is met.

2 - 50 REAR SUSPENSION PT

WATTS BELL CRANK (Continued)

1 - ISOLATORS
2 - JOUNCE BUMPER
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
4 - WATTS LINK (UPPER)

Fig. 38 Bell Crank

1 - INSTALLATION DIRECTION

Fig. 37 Rear Suspension

5 - WATTS LINK (LOWER)
6 - BELL CRANK
7 - AXLE
8 - COIL SPRING

(4) Slide the bell crank pivot bolt all the way
through the axle.

(5) Place the washer and nut on the end of the
pivot bolt and tighten it to a torque of 149·m (110 ft.
lbs.).

(6) Verify the words “BACK UP” can be read on
the bell crank from the rear over the top of the axle.

(7) Lower the vehicle to the ground.

PT REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 51

WATTS LINK

REMOVAL

NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/REAR - WARNING).

(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE­DURE)

(2) If the lower watts link is being removed, per­form the following first, otherwise proceed to the
next step.

(a) Remove the nut securing the bell crank pivot

bolt in the center of the axle (Fig. 37).

(b) With the bolt still installed, slide the bell
crank away from the axle just enough to remove
the nut securing the lower link to the bell crank
(Fig. 37).
(3) Remove the nut securing the ball joint to the

bell crank (Fig. 37).

(4) Install the Remover, Special Tool MB991113, on

the link ball joint at the bell crank and release ball
joint from the bell crank.

(5) Remove the bolt securing the link to the

bracket on the body of the vehicle. Remove the link.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: When installing the link, DO NOT attempt
to turn the ball joint end of the link independently.

(1) Making sure the ball joint end is positioned

properly for mounting to the bell crank (Fig. 37),
install the link into the bracket on the body of the
vehicle.

(2) Install the bolt (and flag nut for upper link)

securing the link to the bracket, but do not fully
tighten it at this time. It must be tightened when the
vehicle is at curb height.

NOTE: The upper link extends from the right side of
the vehicle to the upper end of the bell crank while
the lower link extends from the left side of the vehi­cle to the lower end of the bell crank.

(3) Install the upper or lower link to the bell crank
(Fig. 37). Install the nut on the ball joint stud and
tighten it to a torque of 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.) plus an
additional 180° turn after torque is met.

(4) If the lower link is the link being installed, per­form the following, otherwise proceed to the next
step.

(a) Slide the bell crank pivot bolt all the way

through the axle.

(b) Place the washer and nut on the end of the
pivot bolt and tighten it to a torque of 149 N·m
(110 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION: Although both ends of the bell crank
appear to be the same, they are not. When install­ing the watts links or bell crank, make sure the bell
crank is properly positioned. When mounted prop­erly, the words “BACK UP” should be able to be
read from the rear over the top of the axle (Fig. 38).

(5) Verify the words “BACK UP” can be read on

the bell crank from the rear over the top of the axle
(Fig. 38). If they cannot be read at this position, the
link or bell crank is not installed properly and must
be removed and reinstalled so that the words “BACK
UP” can be read on the upper rear of the bell crank
once installed.

(6) Lower the vehicle to the ground.
(7) Place the vehicle on an alignment rack or

drive-on hoist.

(8) With the suspension at curb height, tighten the

link mounting bolt at the body bracket to a torque of
92 N·m (68 ft. lbs.).

2 - 52 WHEEL ALIGNMENT PT

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT .......52

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION

AND STEERING ......................55

STANDARD PROCEDURE

STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT

MEASUREMENT ......................57

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil­ity, and proper tire wear.

The method of checking a vehicle’s front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufac­turer and type of equipment used. The manufactur­er’s instructions should always be followed to ensure
accuracy of the alignment, except when
DaimlerChrysler Corporation’s wheel alignment spec­ifications differ.

On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:

Front

• Camber

• Toe

Rear

• Camber

• Toe

Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel
alignment adjustments with the vehicle standing at
its proper curb height specification. Curb height is
the normal riding height of the vehicle. It is mea­sured from a certain point on the vehicle to the
ground or a designated area while the vehicle is sit­ting on a flat, level surface. Refer to Curb Height
Measurement in this section for additional informa­tion.

Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL

ALIGNMENT .........................58

SPECIFICATIONS

WHEEL ALIGNMENT ...................60

sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.

• Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear

at the inside of the tire.

• Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear

on the outside of the tire.

CAMBER

Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea-

Fig. 1 Camber

1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP

PT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 53

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CROSS CAMBER

Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
For example, if the left camber is +0.3° and the right
camber is 0.0°, the cross camber would be +0.3°.

CASTER

Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the steer­ing knuckle in reference to the position of the upper
and lower ball joints. Caster is measured in degrees
of angle relative to a true vertical center line. This
line is viewed from the side of the tire and wheel
assembly (Fig. 2).

• Forward tilt (upper ball joint ahead of lower)

results in a negative caster angle.

• Rearward tilt (upper ball joint trailing lower)

results in a positive caster angle.

Although caster does not affect tire wear, a caster
imbalance between the two front wheels may cause
the vehicle to lead to the side with the least positive
caster.

TOE

Toe is the inward or outward angle of the wheels

as viewed from above the vehicle (Fig. 3).

• Toe-in is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are closer together than the
rear edges.

• Toe-out is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are farther apart than the
rear edges.

Toe-in and toe-out can occur at the front wheels

and the rear wheels.

Toe is measured in degrees or inches. The mea­surement identifies the amount that the front of the
wheels point inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out). Toe
is measured at the spindle height. Zero toe means
the front and rear edges of the wheels on the same
axle are equally distant.

Fig. 2 Caster

CROSS CASTER

Cross caster is the difference between left and

right caster.

Fig. 3 Toe

1 - TOE-IN
2 - TOE-OUT

2 - 54 WHEEL ALIGNMENT PT

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

TOE-OUT ON TURNS

Toe-out on turns is the relative positioning of the
front wheels while steering through a turn (Fig. 4).
This compensates for each front wheel’s turning
radius. As the vehicle encounters a turn, the out­board wheel must travel in a larger radius circle
than the inboard wheel. The steering system is
designed to make each wheel follow its particular
radius circle. To accomplish this, the front wheels
must progressively toe outward as the steering is
turned from center. This eliminates tire scrubbing
and undue tire wear when steering a vehicle through
a turn.

STEERING AXIS INCLINATION (S.A.I.)

Steering axis inclination is the angle between a
true vertical line starting at the center of the tire at
the road contact point and a line drawn through the
center of the upper ball joint (or strut) and the lower
ball joint (Fig. 5). S.A.I. is built into the vehicle and
is not an adjustable angle. If S.A.I. is not within
specifications, a bent or damaged suspension compo­nent may be the cause.

Fig. 4 Toe-Out On Turns

1 - TOE-OUT ON TURNS

DYNAMIC TOE PATTERN

Dynamic toe pattern is the inward and outward toe
movement of the front and rear tires through the
suspension’s jounce and rebound travel. As the vehi­cle’s suspension moves up and down, the toe pattern
varies. Toe pattern is critical in controlling the direc­tional stability of the vehicle while in motion. Front
and rear dynamic toe pattern is preset by the factory
at the time the vehicle is assembled.

It is not necessary to check or adjust front or rear
dynamic toe pattern when doing a normal wheel
alignment. The only time dynamic toe pattern needs
to be checked or adjusted is if the frame of the vehi­cle has been damaged.

Fig. 5 S.A.I. and I.A.

1 - S.A.I.
2 - CAMBER
3 - I.A.

INCLUDED ANGLE (I.A.)

Included angle is the sum of the S.A.I. angle plus
or minus the camber angle, depending on whether or
not the wheel has positive or negative camber (Fig.

5). If camber is positive, add the camber angle to the
S.A.I angle. If camber is negative, subtract the cam­ber angle from the S.A.I. angle. Included angle is not
adjustable, but can be used to diagnose a frame mis­alignment or bent suspension component (spindle,
strut).

PT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 55

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

THRUST ANGLE

Thrust angle is the averaged direction the rear
wheels are pointing in relation to the vehicle’s center
line (Fig. 6). The presence of negative or positive
thrust angle causes the rear tires to track improperly
to the left or right of the front tires (dog tracking).

• Negative thrust angle means the rear tires are

tracking to the left of the front tires.

• Positive thrust angle means the rear tires are

tracking to the right of the front tires.

Improper tracking can cause undue tire wear, a
lead or pull and a crooked steering wheel. Excessive
thrust angle can usually be corrected by adjusting
the rear wheel toe so that each wheel has one-half of
the total toe measurement.

Fig. 6 Thrust Angle

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION AND STEERING

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES POTENTIAL CORRECTIONS

Front End Whine On Turns 1. Defective Wheel Bearing 1. Replace Wheel Bearing

2. Incorrect Wheel Alignment 2. Check And Reset Wheel Alignment

3. Worn Tires 3. Replace Tires

Front End Growl Or
Grinding On Turns

Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns

1. Defective Wheel Bearing 1. Replace Wheel Bearing

2. Engine Mount Grounding
Against Frame Or Body Of Vehicle.

3. Worn Or Broken C/V Joint 3. Replace C/V Joint

4. Loose Wheel Lug Nuts 4. Verify Wheel Lug Nut Torque

5. Incorrect Wheel Alignment 5. Check And Reset Wheel Alignment

6. Worn Tires 6. Replace Tires

1. Loose Wheel Lug Nuts 1. Verify Wheel Lug Nut Torque

2. Worn Or Broken C/V Joint 2. Replace C/V Joint

3. Worn Or Loose Tie Rod Or Ball
Joint

4. Worn Control Arm Bushing 4. Replace Control Arm Bushing

5. Loose Sway Bar Or Upper Strut
Attachment

2. Check For Motor Mount Hitting Frame
Rail And Reposition Engine As Required

3. Tighten Or Replace Tie Rod End Or Ball
Joint

5. Tighten Sway Bar Or Upper Strut
Attachment To Specified Torque

2 - 56 WHEEL ALIGNMENT PT

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES POTENTIAL CORRECTIONS

Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed

Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed

Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating

Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating

1. Defective Wheel Bearing 1. Replace Wheel Bearing

2. Incorrect Wheel Alignment 2. Check And Reset Wheel Alignment

3. Worn Tires 3. Replace Tires

1. Engine Mount Grounding 1. Reposition Engine As Required

2. Worn Or Broken C/V Joint 2. Replace C/V Joint

1. Worn Or Defective Transaxle
Gears Or Bearings

1. Worn Or Broken Engine Mount 1. Replace Engine Mount

2. Worn Or Defective Transaxle
Gears Or Bearings

3. Loose Wheel Lug Nuts 3. Verify Wheel Lug Nut Torque

4. Worn Or Broken C/V Joint 4. Replace C/V Joint

5. Worn Or Loose Ball Joint 5. Tighten Or Replace Ball Joint

6. Worn Or Loose Control Arm
Bushing

7. Loose Crossmember Bolts 7. Tighten Crossmember Bolts To Specified

1. Replace Transaxle Gears Or Bearings

2. Replace Transaxle Gears Or Bearings

6. Tighten To Specified Torque Or Replace
Control Arm Bushing

Torque

Road Wander 1. Incorrect Tire Pressure 1. Inflate Tires To Rcommended Pressure

2. Incorrect Front Or Rear Wheel Toe 2. Check And Reset Front Wheel Toe

3. Worn Wheel Bearings 3. Replace Wheel Bearing

4. Worn Control Arm Bushings 4. Replace Control Arm Bushing

5. Excessive Friction In Steering
Gear

6. Excessive Friction In Steering
Shaft Coupling

7. Excessive Friction In Strut Upper
Bearing

Lateral Pull 1. Unequal Tire Pressure 1. Inflate All Tires To Recommended

2. Radial Tire Lead 2. Perform Vehicle Lead Diagnosis And

3. Incorrect Front Wheel Camber 3. Check And Reset Front Wheel Camber

4. Power Steering Gear Imbalance 4. Replace Power Steering Gear

5. Wheel Braking 5. Correct Braking Condition Causing

5. Replace Steering Gear

6. Replace Steering Coupler

7. Replace Strut Bearing

Pressure

Correction Procedure - Refer To Tires And
Wheels

Lateral Pull

PT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 57

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES POTENTIAL CORRECTIONS

Excessive Steering Free
Play

Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low Tire Pressure 1. Inflate All Tires To Recommended

1. Incorrect Steering Gear
Adjustment

2. Worn Or Loose Tie Rod Ends 2. Replace Or Tighten Tie Rod Ends

3. Loose Steering Gear Mounting
Bolts

4. Loose Or Worn Steering Shaft
Coupler

2. Lack Of Lubricant In Steering
Gear

3. Low Power Steering Fluid Level 3. Fill Power Steering Fluid Reservoir To

4. Loose Power Steering Pump Belt 4. Check and replace automatic belt

5. Lack Of Lubricant In Steering Ball
Joints

6. Steering Gear Malfunction 6. Replace Steering Gear

7. Lack Of Lubricant In Steering
Coupler

1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear

3. Tighten Steering Gear Bolts To The
Specified Torque

4. Replace Steering Shaft Coupler

Pressure

2. Replace Steering Gear

Correct Level

tensioner as necessary. If drive belt is worn
or glazed, replace belt.

5. Lubricate Or Replace Steering Ball Joints

7. Replace Steering Coupler

STANDARD PROCEDURE

STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT

The wheel alignment is to be checked and all align­ment adjustments made with the vehicle at its
required curb height specification.

Vehicle height is to be checked with the vehicle on
a flat, level surface, preferably a vehicle alignment
rack. The tires are to be inflated to the recommended
pressure. All tires are to be the same size as stan­dard equipment. Vehicle height is checked with the
fuel tank full of fuel, and no passenger or luggage
compartment load.

Vehicle height is not adjustable. If the measure­ment is not within specifications, inspect the vehicle
for bent or weak suspension components. Compare
the parts tag on the suspect coil spring(s) to the
parts book and the vehicle sales code, checking for a
match. Once removed from the vehicle, compare the

CURB HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS

VEHICLE FRONT REAR

695mm±8mm 716mm±8mm

ALL

27.37 in. ± 0.32 in. 28.27 in. ± 0.32 in.

coil spring height to a correct new or known good coil
spring. The heights should vary if the suspect spring
is weak.

NOTE: Prior to reading the curb height measure­ment, the front an rear of the vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce by grasping the center of
the rear, then front bumper (or fascia) and jouncing
the vehicle an equal number of times. Release the
bumper at the bottom of the jounce cycle.

(1) Measure from the edge of the wheel opening
fender lip directly above the wheel center (spindle)
down to the floor or alignment rack surface.

(2) When measuring, maximum left-to-right differ­ential is not to exceed 10 mm (0.39 in.).

(3) Compare the measurements to specifications
listed in the following CURB HEIGHT SPECIFICA­TIONS chart.

2 - 58 WHEEL ALIGNMENT PT

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT

PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION

CAUTION: If during the inspection the front suspen­sion crossmember shows any sign of impact dam­age, the steering column lower coupling must be
inspected. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/COLUMN/
STEERING COUPLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)

Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to the vehicle to
ensure proper alignment.

(1) Be sure the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the fuel
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
specifications.

(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac­tory equipment.

(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. The tires are to
be inflated to the recommended air pressure. All tires
must be the same size and in good condition with
approximately the same tread wear.

(4) Check the front tire and wheel assemblies for
excessive radial runout.

(5) Inspect all suspension component fasteners for
looseness and proper torque.

(6) Inspect the lower front ball joints and all steer­ing linkage for looseness and any sign of wear or
damage.

(7) Inspect the rubber bushings on all the suspen­sion components for signs of wear or deterioration. If
any bushings show signs of wear or deterioration,
they should be replaced prior to aligning the vehicle.

(8) Check vehicle curb height to verify it is within
specifications. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP

(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.

(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle, per the alignment equipment manufac­turer’s instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel
alignment is recommended.

NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle’s alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.

(3) Read the vehicle’s current front and rear align­ment settings. Compare the vehicle’s current align-

ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)

REAR CAMBER AND TOE

Rear camber and rear toe settings on this vehicle
are determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle’s suspension components.
This is referred to as Net Build. The result is no
required adjustment of camber and toe after the vehi­cle is built or when servicing the suspension compo­nents. Thus, when performing a wheel alignment, rear
camber and toe are not normally considered adjust­able angles. Although not normally considered adjust­able, rear camber and toe can be changed when
necessary through the use of specially designed shims.
To install shims, use the following procedure.

(1) Raise the vehicle until its tires are off the floor
or alignment rack.

(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

(3) Access the spindle mounting bolts following the
Spindle Removal procedure found in Rear Suspen­sion. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR/SPINDLE ­REMOVAL)

(4) Loosen the four spindle mounting bolts just
enough to slide the adjustment shim in between the
spindle and the axle mounting flange.

NOTE: Each shim is 0.010 in. (0.254 mm) thick. Do
not place more than two shims at any one spindle.

(5) Hook the shim on the mounting bolts utilizing
the slots cut into the shim. Refer to the following list
for shim placement:

• To achieve more positive camber, place the shim

across the two upper mounting bolts.

• To achieve more negative camber, place the shim

across the two lower mounting bolts.

• To achieve more positive toe, place the shim

across the two rearward mounting bolts.

• To achieve more negative toe, place the shim

across the two forward mounting bolts.

(6) Tighten the four mounting bolts to a torque of
95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

(7) Reassemble the rear brake following the Spin­dle Installation procedure found in Rear Suspension.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR/SPINDLE ­INSTALLATION)

(8) Reinstall the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten
the wheel mounting nuts to a torque of 135 N·m (100
ft. lbs.).

(9) Lower the vehicle.

(10) Once rear camber and toe have been set to
specifications, check and adjust the front wheel align­ment as necessary. Refer to FRONT CAMBER AND
CASTER and FRONT TOE within this wheel align­ment service procedure.

PT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 59

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

FRONT CAMBER AND CASTER

Front camber and caster settings on this vehicle
are determined at the time the vehicle is designed,
by the location of the vehicle’s suspension compo­nents. This is referred to as Net Build. The result is
no required adjustment of camber and caster after
the vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension
components. Thus, when performing a wheel align­ment, caster and camber are not normally considered
adjustable angles. Camber and caster should be
checked to ensure they meet vehicle specifications.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT ­SPECIFICATIONS)

If front camber is found not to meet alignment
specifications, it can be adjusted using an available
camber adjustment bolt package. Before installing a
camber adjustment bolt package on a vehicle found
to be outside the specifications, inspect the suspen­sion components for any signs of damage or bending.

No adjustment can be made to the caster setting
on this vehicle. If the vehicle’s caster is not within
alignment specifications, check for damaged suspen­sion components or body parts.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the vehicles
wheel alignment by heating or bending any of the
suspension components.

CAMBER ADJUSTMENT BOLT PACKAGE INSTALLATION

The camber adjustment bolt package contains new
bolts and nuts for attaching the strut clevis bracket
to the steering knuckle. The bolts contained in the
package are slightly undersize allowing for move­ment between the strut clevis bracket and the steer­ing knuckle. The movement allowed by the undersize
bolts provide approximately two degrees of camber
adjustment per side of the vehicle. To install and
adjust the camber adjustment bolt package, follow
the procedure below.

(1) Raise the vehicle until its tires are not support­ing the weight of the vehicle.

CAUTION: The knuckle to strut assembly attaching
bolt shanks are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Remove the nuts while holding the
bolts stationary.

(2) Remove the original upper bolt attaching the
strut clevis bracket to the knuckle (Fig. 7).

(3) Install a bolt from the adjustment package into
the hole where the original bolt was removed. Install
the bolt from the rear.

(4) Install a nut provided in adjustment package
on the replacement bolt. Tighten the nut until it’s
snug, but still allowing the knuckle to slide in the
clevis bracket.

Fig. 7 Front Strut Clevis Bracket Attaching Bolts

1 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET TO STEERING KNUCKLE
ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - LOOSEN THIS BOLT
5 - REMOVE AND REPLACE THIS BOLT

(5) Remove the original lower bolt.

(6) Install a bolt from the adjustment package into
the bottom hole of the strut clevis bracket. Install the
bolt from the rear.

(7) Install a nut provided in adjustment package
on the replacement bolt. Tighten the nut until it’s
snug.

(8) Reinstall the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten
the wheel mounting nuts to a torque of 135 N·m (100
ft. lbs.)

(9) Perform the above procedure to opposite strut
as required.

(10) Lower the vehicle and jounce the front and
rear of the vehicle.

(11) Adjust the front camber to the preferred set­ting by pushing or pulling on the top of the tire.
When camber is set to specifications, tighten the
upper and lower strut clevis bracket bolts. Again
jounce the front and rear of the vehicle, then verify
the camber settings.

(12) Torque front strut clevis bracket-to-steering
knuckle attaching bolts to 53 N·m (40 ft. lbs.), plus
an additional 1/4 turn after the torque is met.

(13) Once camber is within specifications, adjust
toe to meet the preferred specification setting. Refer
to FRONT TOE within this wheel alignment service
procedure.

2 - 60 WHEEL ALIGNMENT PT

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

FRONT TOE

(1) Center the steering wheel and lock it in place

using a steering wheel clamp.

CAUTION: Do not twist the inner tie rod-to-steering
gear rubber boots while turning the inner tie rod
during the front toe adjustment.

(2) Loosen the tie rod adjusting jam nuts (Fig. 8).
Grasp each inner tie rod at its splines and rotate it
one way or the other until the front wheel toe is set
to the preferred specification. (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)

(3) Tighten tie rod adjusting jam nuts to a torque
of 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.).

(4) Make sure the inner tie rod-to-steering gear
rubber boots are not twisted. If twisted, loosen the
boot clamp at the inner tie rod and move the boot as
necessary.

(5) Remove steering wheel clamp.

(6) Remove the alignment equipment.

(7) Road test the vehicle to verify the steering
wheel is straight and the vehicle does not pull or
wander.

1 - OUTER TIE ROD
2 - INNER TIE ROD SPLINES
3 - JAM NUT

NOTE: All wheel alignments are to be set with the
vehicle at curb height. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

Fig. 8 Jam Nut Locations (Typical)

SPECIFICATIONS

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

NOTE: All specifications are given in degrees.

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE

CAMBER 0.00° -0.40° to +0.40°
Cross Camber (Maximum Side-To-

Side Difference)
CASTER +2.45° +1.45° to +3.45°

Cross Caster (Maximum Side-To-Side
Difference)

TOTAL TOE* +0.10° 0.00° to +0.20°

REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE

CAMBER 0.00° -0.25° to +0.25°
TOTAL TOE* +0.20° +0.00° to +0.40°
THRUST ANGLE 0.00° -0.30° to +0.30°
Note:

* TOTAL TOE is the sum of both the left and right wheel toe settings. TOTAL TOE must be equally split between
each front wheel to ensure the steering wheel is centered after setting toe. Positive toe (+) is toe-in and negative
toe (2) is Toe-out.

0.00° 0.50

0.00° 1.00°

PT DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE 3 - 1

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page

HALF SHAFT ............................1

HALF SHAFT

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

HALF SHAFT

DESCRIPTION ..........................1

OPERATION ............................2

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALFSHAFT

DIAGNOSIS ...........................3

REMOVAL

REMOVAL—EXCEPT DIESEL AND TURBO

MODELS .............................4

REMOVAL—DIESEL AND TURBO MODELS . . 6

INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION—EXCEPT DIESEL AND

TURBO MODELS.......................8

HALF SHAFT

DESCRIPTION

All Models Except Diesel and Turbo

1.6L, 2.0L and 2.4L naturally aspirated models
equipped with either an automatic or manual trans­mission use an unequal-length halfshaft system. The
system incorporates two halfshaft assemblies (left
and right) that consist of an inner and outer constant
velocity (CV) joint and a solid interconnecting shaft
(Fig. 1). The right halfshaft is longer than the left
due to transaxle packaging and powertrain design.

INSTALLATION—DIESELAND TURBO

MODELS ............................10

SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE ..............12

SPECIAL TOOLS

HALFSHAFT .........................12

CV BOOT - INNER

REMOVAL .............................13

INSTALLATION .........................14

CV BOOT - OUTER

REMOVAL .............................18

INSTALLATION .........................19

Halfshafts used on both the right and left sides of
the vehicle use a tuned rubber damper weight
mounted to the interconnecting shaft (Fig. 1). The
damper weight applications vary by which side of the
vehicle the halfshaft is located on and the transmis­sion application of the vehicle. When replacing a
halfshaft, be sure the replacement halfshaft has the
same damper weight as the original.

3 - 2 HALF SHAFT PT

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 1 Unequal Length Halfshaft System

1 - STUB AXLE 8 - OUTER C/V JOINT
2 - OUTER C/V JOINT 9 - RIGHT HALFSHAFT
3 - OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT 10 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT BOOT
4 - TUNED RUBBER DAMPER WEIGHT 11 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
5 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT - RH 12 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
6 - OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT 13 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT BOOT
7 - STUB AXLE 14 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT - LH

Diesel and Turbo Models

Vehicles equipped with the 2.2L Turbo Diesel and
the 2.4L Turbo Gasoline utilize an equal-length half­shaft system. The system incorporates two halfshaft
assemblies (left and right) that consist of an inner
and outer constant velocity (CV) joint and a solid
interconnecting shaft, and an intermediate shaft/
bearing assembly as shown in (Fig. 2)

The left halfshaft uses a tuned-rubber damper
weight mounted to the interconnecting shaft (Fig. 2).
When replacing a halfshaft, be sure the replacement
halfshaft has the same damper weight as the origi­nal.

Both halfshaft assemblies use the same type of
inner and outer joints. The inner joint of both half­shaft assemblies is a tripod joint, and the outer joint
of both halfshaft assemblies is a Rzeppa joint. Both
tripod joints and Rzeppa joints are true constant
velocity (C/V) joint assemblies. The inner tripod joint
allows for the changes in halfshaft length through
the jounce and rebound travel of the front suspen­sion.

On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
C/V joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to
determine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.

The left halfshaft inner tripod joint and the inter­mediate shaft are both splined into the transaxle side
gears. The inner tripod joints are retained using a

snap ring located in the stub shaft of the tripod joint.
The outer C/V joint has a stub shaft that is splined
into the wheel hub and retained by a hub nut, nut
lock, wave washer and cotter pin (Fig. 3).

NOTE: This vehicle does not use a rubber–lip bear­ing seal as on previous front–wheel–drive cars to
prevent contamination of the front wheel bearing.
On these vehicles, the face of the outer C/V joint
fits deeply into the steering knuckle, using a close
outer C/V joint–to–steering knuckle fit. This design
deters direct water splash on bearing seal while
allowing any water that gets in, to run out the bot­tom of the steering knuckle bearing bore. It is
important to thoroughly clean the outer C/V joint
and the wheel bearing area in the steering knuckle
before it is assembled after servicing.

OPERATION

Halfshaft assemblies are designed to transmit
power from the transaxle to the front wheels, while
allowing for powertrain and suspension flex.

PT HALF SHAFT 3 - 3

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 2 Halfshaft and Intermediate Shaft (2.2L TD Shown—2.4L Turbo Similar)

1 - HALFSHAFT (LH)
2 - TRANSAXLE
3 - INTERMEDIATE SHAFT

Fig. 3 Driveshaft Retaining Hardware

1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALFSHAFT
DIAGNOSIS

VEHICLE INSPECTION

(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard

tripod joint and outboard C/V joint; this is a sign of

4 - BOLT (3)
5 - HALFSHAFT (RH)

inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam­age.

NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS

A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could
be caused by one of the following conditions:

(1) Loose hub nut. Using a click-style torque
wrench, torque hub nut to 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.).

(2) Damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps, which is evident by the
presence of grease slung outward from the joint. This
will result in the loss and/or contamination of the
joint grease, resulting in inadequate lubrication of
the joint.

(3) Noise may also be caused by another compo­nent of the vehicle coming in contact with the half­shafts.

CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION

This noise may be a result of one of the following
conditions:

(1) A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of
the halfshaft assembly, which is evident by the pres­ence of grease slung outward from the joint. This will
result in the loss and/or contamination of the joint
grease, resulting in inadequate lubrication of the
joint.

3 - 4 HALF SHAFT PT

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

(2) A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer
joint of the halfshaft assembly. This may be accom­panied by the visible loss of grease.

(3) A damaged or worn halfshaft C/V joint. Isolate
the noise to one side of the vehicle. Replace only the
affected side. Replacing both halfshafts is not neces­sary.

SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION

(1) A worn or damaged halfshaft inner tripod joint.
Isolate the condition to one side of the vehicle.
Replace only the affected side. Replacing both half­shafts is not necessary.

(2) A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner
tripod joint only). Isolate the condition to one side of
the vehicle. Replace only the affected side. Replacing
both halfshafts is not necessary.

(3) Improper wheel balance.

1 - WHEEL/TIRE ASSY.
2 - LUG NUT (5)
3 - HUB

Fig. 4 Wheel and Tire Removal

VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS

(1) Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the
backside of the wheel(s).

(2) Out of balance front tires or wheels.

(3) Improper tire and/or wheel runout.

REMOVAL

REMOVAL—EXCEPT DIESEL AND TURBO
MODELS

CAUTION: Boot sealing is vital to retain special
lubricants and to prevent foreign contaminants
from entering the C/V joint. Mishandling, such as
allowing the assemblies to dangle unsupported, or
pulling or pushing the ends can cut boots or dam­age C/V joints. During removal and installation pro­cedures, always support both ends of the halfshaft
to prevent damage.

CAUTION: The halfshaft, when installed, acts as a
bolt and secures the front hub/bearing assembly. If
vehicle is to be supported or moved on its wheels
with a halfshaft removed, install a PROPER–SIZED
BOLT AND NUT through front hub. Tighten bolt and
nut to 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.). This will ensure that
the hub bearing cannot loosen.

(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.

(2) Place transaxle in gated park.

(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.

(4) Remove wheel and tire assembly (Fig. 4).

(5) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, and spring
washer, and hub nut from the end of the outer C/V
joint stub axle (Fig. 5).

Fig. 5 Halfshaft Hub Nut & Retaining Hardware

1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER

(6) If equipped with ABS, disconnect the front
wheel speed sensor and secure harness out of the
way.

(7) Remove nut and bolt (Fig. 6) retaining ball
joint stud into steering knuckle.

NOTE: Use caution when separating ball joint stud
from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not
get damaged.

(8) Separate ball joint stud from steering knuckle
by prying down on lower control arm (Fig. 7).

NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner
C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow half­shaft to hang by inner C/V joint, halfshaft must be
supported.

PT HALF SHAFT 3 - 5

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 6 Steering Knuckle at Lower Control Arm Ball

Joint

1 - NUT
2 - BOLT
3 - BALL JOINT

Fig. 7 Separating Lower Control Arm from Steering

Knuckle

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2-PRYBAR
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT STUD

(9) Remove halfshaft from steering knuckle by
pulling outward on knuckle while pressing in on half­shaft. Support outer end of halfshaft assembly. If dif­ficulty in separating halfshaft from hub is
encountered, do not strike shaft with hammer,
instead use puller 1026 to separate (Fig. 8).

(10) Support outer end of the halfshaft assembly.

(11) Remove the inner tripod joints from the side
gears of the transaxle using a punch to dislodge the
inner tripod joint retaining ring from the transaxle
side gear. If removing the right side inner tripod
joint, position the punch to the inner tripod joint
extraction groove (if equipped). Strike the punch

Fig. 8 Separating Halfshaft from Hub/Bearing

1 - PULLER 1026
2 - HALFSHAFT

sharply with a hammer to dislodge the right inner
joint from the side gear. If removing the left side
inner tripod joint, position the punch to the inner tri­pod joint extraction groove (Fig. 9). Strike the punch
sharply with a hammer to dislodge the left inner tri­pod joint from the side gear.

NOTE: Removal of the inner tripod joints is made
easier if you apply outward pressure on the joint as
you strike the punch with a hammer. DO NOT PULL
ON INTERCONNECTING SHAFT TO REMOVE, AS
THE INNER JOINT WILL BECOME SEPARATED.

(12) Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting
shaft of halfshaft assembly (Fig. 10). Remove inner
tripod joint from transaxle by pulling it straight out
of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal. When

removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap
ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to
tripod joint oil seal. When tripod joint is
removed from transaxle, some fluid will leak
out.

CAUTION: The halfshaft, when installed, acts as a
bolt and secures the front hub/bearing assembly. If
vehicle is to be supported or moved on its wheels
with a halfshaft removed, install a PROPER–SIZED
BOLT AND NUT through front hub. Tighten bolt and
nut to 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.). This will ensure that
the hub bearing cannot loosen.

3 - 6 HALF SHAFT PT

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

CAUTION: The halfshaft, when installed, acts as a
bolt and secures the front hub/bearing assembly. If
vehicle is to be supported or moved on its wheels
with a halfshaft removed, install a PROPER–SIZED
BOLT AND NUT through front hub. Tighten bolt and
nut to 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.). This will ensure that
the hub bearing cannot loosen.

(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.

(2) Place transaxle in gated park.

(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.

(4) Remove wheel and tire assembly (Fig. 11).

Fig. 9 Disengaging Left Inner Tripod Joint from

Transaxle

1 - FRONT SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER
2 - PUNCH
3 - TRANSAXLE
4 - HALFSHAFT INNER TRIPOD JOINT
5 - NOTCH

Fig. 10 Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle

1 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
2 - TRANSAXLE
3 - SPLINE
4 - OIL SEAL
5 - SNAP RING
6 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT

REMOVAL—DIESEL AND TURBO MODELS

CAUTION: Boot sealing is vital to retain special
lubricants and to prevent foreign contaminants
from entering the C/V joint. Mishandling, such as
allowing the assemblies to dangle unsupported, or
pulling or pushing the ends can cut boots or dam­age C/V joints. During removal and installation pro­cedures, always support both ends of the halfshaft
to prevent damage.

Fig. 11 Wheel and Tire Removal

1 - WHEEL/TIRE ASSY.
2 - LUG NUT (5)
3 - HUB

(5) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, and spring
washer, and hub nut from the end of the outer C/V
joint stub axle (Fig. 12).

Fig. 12 Halfshaft Hub Nut & Retaining Hardware

1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER

(6) If equipped with ABS, disconnect the front
wheel speed sensor and secure harness out of the
way.

PT HALF SHAFT 3 - 7

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

(7) Remove nut and bolt (Fig. 13) retaining ball

joint stud into steering knuckle.

Fig. 13 Steering Knuckle at Lower Control Arm Ball

Joint

1 - NUT
2 - BOLT
3 - BALL JOINT

NOTE: Use caution when separating ball joint stud
from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not
get damaged.

(9) Remove halfshaft from steering knuckle by
pulling outward on knuckle while pressing in on half­shaft. Support outer end of halfshaft assembly. If dif­ficulty in separating halfshaft from hub is
encountered, do not strike shaft with hammer,
instead use puller 1026 to separate (Fig. 15).

(8) Separate ball joint stud from steering knuckle

by prying down on lower control arm (Fig. 14).

Fig. 14 Separating Lower Control Arm from Steering

Knuckle

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2-PRYBAR
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT STUD

NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner
C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow half­shaft to hang by inner C/V joint, halfshaft must be
supported.

Fig. 15 Separating Halfshaft from Hub/Bearing

1 - PULLER 1026
2 - HALFSHAFT

(10) Support outer end of the halfshaft assembly.

NOTE: When left halfshaft is removed from trans­axle, some fluid may leak out.

NOTE: Removal of the inner tripod joints is made
easier if you apply outward pressure on the joint as
you strike the punch with a hammer. DO NOT PULL
ON INTERCONNECTING SHAFT TO REMOVE, AS
THE INNER JOINT WILL BECOME SEPARATED.

(11) Remove halfshaft(s) (Fig. 16) (Fig. 17). Left
halfshaft: While applying outward pressure on joint

by hand, dislodge inner tripod joint from differential
side gear by striking outward with a punch at extrac­tion groove. When removing tripod joint and half­shaft, do not let spline or snap ring drag across
sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
Right halfshaft: Slide inner tripod joint off of inter­mediate shaft. If difficulty is encountered, dislodge
joint from intermediate shaft using punch.

(12) If intermediate shaft is to be removed, remove
three (3) intermediate shaft bearing-to-bracket bolts
(Fig. 16). 2.4L turbo models utilize two (2) interme-

3 - 8 HALF SHAFT PT

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 16 Halfshaft and Intermediate Shaft—2.2L Turbo Diesel

1 - HALFSHAFT (LH)
2 - TRANSAXLE
3 - INTERMEDIATE SHAFT

diate shaft bearing-to-bracket bolts. Remove interme­diate shaft bearing/shaft assembly from transaxle.

CAUTION: The halfshaft, when installed, acts as a
bolt and secures the front hub/bearing assembly. If
vehicle is to be supported or moved on its wheels
with a halfshaft removed, install a PROPER–SIZED
BOLT AND NUT through front hub. Tighten bolt and
nut to 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.). This will ensure that
the hub bearing cannot loosen.

INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION—EXCEPT DIESEL AND TURBO
MODELS

CAUTION: Boot sealing is vital to retain special
lubricants and to prevent foreign contaminants
from entering the C/V joint. Mishandling, such as
allowing the assemblies to dangle unsupported, or
pulling or pushing the ends can cut boots or dam­age C/V joints. During removal and installation pro­cedures, always support both ends of the halfshaft
to prevent damage.

4 - BOLT (3)
5 - HALFSHAFT (RH)

(1) Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing
surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal
sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean trans­mission lubricant.

(2) Holding halfshaft assembly by tripod joint and
interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into trans­axle side gear as far as possible by hand.

(3) Carefully align tripod joint with transaxle side
gears. Then grasp halfshaft interconnecting shaft
and push tripod joint into transaxle side gear until
fully seated. Test that snap ring is fully engaged

with side gear by attempting to remove tripod
joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is
fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will
not be removable by hand.

(4) Clean all debris and moisture out of steering
knuckle (Fig. 18).

(5) Ensure that front of outer C/V joint, which fits
into steering knuckle (Fig. 19), is free of debris and
moisture before assembling into steering knuckle.

(6) Slide halfshaft back into front hub. Install
steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud (Fig. 20).

PT HALF SHAFT 3 - 9

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 17 Halfshaft and Intermediate Shaft—2.4L Turbo Models

1 - HALFSHAFT (LH)
2 - TRANSAXLE
3 - BOLT

Fig. 18 Steering Knuckle to C/V Joint Sealing Area

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - WHEEL BEARING
3 - FRONT HUB
4 - THIS AREA OF THE STEERING KNUCKLE IS TO BE FREE OF
ALL DEBRIS AND MOISTURE BEFORE INSTALLING HALFSHAFT
IN STEERING KNUCKLE

NOTE: At this point, the outer joint will not seat
completely into the front hub. The outer joint will be

4 - INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
5 - HALFSHAFT (RH)
6 - BOLT (2)

Fig. 19 Outer C/V Joint Inspection

1 - OUTER C/V JOINT
2 - THIS AREA OF OUTER C/V JOINT MUST BE FREE OF ALL
DEBRIS AND MOISTURE, BEFORE INSTALLATION INTO
STEERING KNUCKLE.

pulled into hub and seated when the hub nut is
installed and torqued.

(7) Install a NEW steering knuckle to ball joint
stud bolt and nut (Fig. 20). Tighten the nut and bolt
to 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

3 - 10 HALF SHAFT PT

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 22 Wheel and Tire Installation

1 - WHEEL/TIRE ASSY.

Fig. 20 Halfshaft Installation Into Hub And Knuckle

1 - NUT
2 - BOLT
3 - BALL JOINT

2 - LUG NUT (5)
3 - HUB

INSTALLATION—DIESEL AND TURBO MODELS

(8) Clean all foreign matter from threads of half­shaft outer stub axle. Install washer and hub nut
onto the threads of the stub axle and tighten nut to
244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 21) .

(9) Install spring washer, nut lock, and cotter pin
(Fig. 21).

Fig. 21 Halfshaft Retaining Hardware

1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER

(10) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install
front wheel lug nuts (Fig. 22) and tighten to 128 N·m
(100 ft. lbs.).

(11) Check for correct fluid level in transaxle
assembly.

(12) Lower vehicle.

(13) Connect battery negative cable.

CAUTION: Boot sealing is vital to retain special
lubricants and to prevent foreign contaminants
from entering the C/V joint. Mishandling, such as
allowing the assemblies to dangle unsupported, or
pulling or pushing the ends can cut boots or dam­age C/V joints. During removal and installation pro­cedures, always support both ends of the halfshaft
to prevent damage.

(1) If removed, install intermediate shaft/bearing
assembly (Fig. 16) (Fig. 17). Install and torque bear­ing-to-bracket bolts to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.).

(2) Install halfshaft(s). Left halfshaft: Thoroughly
clean spline and oil seal sealing surface on left tripod
joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tri­pod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
While holding halfshaft assembly by tripod joint and
interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into trans­axle as far as possible by hand. Carefully align tripod
joint with transaxle side gears. Then grasp halfshaft
interconnecting shaft and push tripod joint into
transaxle side gear until fully seated. Test that snap
ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to
remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap
ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will
not be removable by hand. Right halfshaft: Thor­oughly clean right halfshaft tripod joint spline, as
well as intermediate shaft spline. While holding half­shaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting
shaft, install tripod joint onto intermediate shaft as
far as possible by hand.

(3) Clean all debris and moisture out of steering
knuckle (Fig. 23).

(4) Ensure that front of outer C/V joint, which fits
into steering knuckle (Fig. 24), is free of debris and
moisture before assembling into steering knuckle.

PT HALF SHAFT 3 - 11

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

(6) Install a NEW steering knuckle to ball joint
stud bolt and nut (Fig. 25). Tighten the nut and bolt
to 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

Fig. 23 Steering Knuckle to C/V Joint Sealing Area

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - WHEEL BEARING
3 - FRONT HUB
4 - THIS AREA OF THE STEERING KNUCKLE IS TO BE FREE OF
ALL DEBRIS AND MOISTURE BEFORE INSTALLING HALFSHAFT
IN STEERING KNUCKLE

Fig. 25 Halfshaft Installation Into Hub And Knuckle

1 - NUT
2 - BOLT
3 - BALL JOINT

Fig. 24 Outer C/V Joint Inspection

1 - OUTER C/V JOINT
2 - THIS AREA OF OUTER C/V JOINT MUST BE FREE OF ALL
DEBRIS AND MOISTURE, BEFORE INSTALLATION INTO
STEERING KNUCKLE.

(5) Slide halfshaft back into front hub. Install

steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud (Fig. 25).

NOTE: At this point, the outer joint will not seat
completely into the front hub. The outer joint will be
pulled into hub and seated when the hub nut is
installed and torqued.

(7) Clean all foreign matter from threads of half­shaft outer stub axle. Install washer and hub nut
onto the threads of the stub axle and tighten nut to
244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 26) .

(8) Install spring washer, nut lock, and cotter pin
(Fig. 26).

Fig. 26 Halfshaft Retaining Hardware

1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER

(9) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install
front wheel lug nuts (Fig. 27) and tighten to 128 N·m
(100 ft. lbs.).

3 - 12 HALF SHAFT PT

HALF SHAFT (Continued)

(11) Lower vehicle.

(12) Connect battery negative cable.

Fig. 27 Wheel and Tire Installation

1 - WHEEL/TIRE ASSY.
2 - LUG NUT (5)
3 - HUB

(10) Check for correct fluid level in transaxle

assembly.

SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.

Bolt, Intermediate Shaft

Bearing-to-Bracket

Nut, Driveshaft-to-Hub/

Bearing

Nut, Knuckle-to-Ball Joint

Bolt

Nut, Wheel to Hub 128 95 —

28 21 —

244 180 —

95 70 —

SPECIAL TOOLS

HALFSHAFT

Boot Clamp Installer C-4975A

Puller 1026