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GETTING READY
SEWING BASICS
UTILITY STITCHES
APPENDIX
Operation Manual
Computerized Sewing Machine
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Important Safety Instructions
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
This machine is intended for household use.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.
When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing
machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could
cause injuries.
When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,
otherwise you may injure your back or knees.
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4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
5 Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of
children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of
suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
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8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
Save these instructions.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assistance may be required if
used by a person with a disability.
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Contents
Important Safety Instructions .............................................................................................. 1
Introduction ........................................................................................................................8
Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................8
Accessories ..........................................................................................................................9
Included accessories .........................................................................................................................................9
Optional accessories.......................................................................................................................................10
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...................................................................11
Machine..........................................................................................................................................................11
Needle and presser foot section ......................................................................................................................12
Operation buttons...........................................................................................................................................12
Operation panel..............................................................................................................................................13
GETTING READY 15
Turning the Machine On/Off.............................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................16
Turning on the machine..................................................................................................................................17
Turning off the machine..................................................................................................................................17
Understanding the LCD Screens........................................................................................18
Changing the Machine Settings ......................................................................................... 19
Changing the settings ......................................................................................................................................19
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ................................................................................................................21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin...........................................................................................22
Bobbin precautions .........................................................................................................................................22
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................22
Installing the bobbin .......................................................................................................................................26
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................28
Threading the upper thread .............................................................................................................................28
Threading the needle ......................................................................................................................................31
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ................................................................33
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 33
Pulling up the bobbin thread...........................................................................................................................36
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................ 37
Needle precautions.........................................................................................................................................37
Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 38
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 39
Replacing the needle....................................................................................................................................... 39
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................ 41
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 41
Replacing the presser foot ...............................................................................................................................41
Removing the presser foot holder.................................................................................................................... 43
Using the optional walking foot ......................................................................................................................44
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces....................................................................................46
Stitching cylindrical pieces..............................................................................................................................46
Sewing large pieces of fabric........................................................................................................................... 46
SEWING BASICS 49
Sewing...............................................................................................................................50
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 50
Positioning the fabric ......................................................................................................................................51
Starting to sew.................................................................................................................................................52
Securing the stitching......................................................................................................................................54
Cutting the thread ...........................................................................................................................................56
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Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................ 57
Changing the tension of the upper thread........................................................................................................ 57
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch width................................................................................................................................ 58
Adjusting the stitch length ...............................................................................................................................59
Useful Functions................................................................................................................60
Changing the needle stop position ..................................................................................................................60
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches................................................................................................ 60
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................62
Trial sewing ....................................................................................................................................................62
Changing the sewing direction ................................................................................................................................. 62
Sewing curves.................................................................................................................................................62
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................62
Sewing thin fabrics..........................................................................................................................................63
Sewing stretch fabrics......................................................................................................................................63
Sewing an even seam allowance..................................................................................................................... 64
UTILITY STITCHES 65
Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................66
Selecting stitch types and patterns ................................................................................................................... 66
Selecting stitching ...........................................................................................................................................67
Overcasting Stitches ..........................................................................................................71
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ................................................................................... 71
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”.............................................................................................72
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter...............................................................................73
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................75
Basic stitching.................................................................................................................................................75
Blind Hem Stitching .......................................................................................................... 77
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing..................................................................................79
Buttonhole sewing ..........................................................................................................................................80
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 84
Zipper Insertion.................................................................................................................86
Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................86
Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................88
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................91
Stretch stitching...............................................................................................................................................91
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 91
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................93
Appliqué stitching ...........................................................................................................................................94
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 95
Piecing............................................................................................................................................................95
Quilting ..........................................................................................................................................................96
Free-motion quilting........................................................................................................................................97
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller.............................................................................................98
Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................. 100
Triple stretch stitching ...................................................................................................................................100
Bar tack stitching...........................................................................................................................................100
Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................102
Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................103
Fagoting........................................................................................................................................................104
Scallop stitching............................................................................................................................................105
Smocking......................................................................................................................................................105
Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................106
Joining ..........................................................................................................................................................107
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................107
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns .............................................................110
Sewing beautiful patterns ..............................................................................................................................110
Sewing patterns.............................................................................................................................................110
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Combining patterns.......................................................................................................................................111
Repeat sewing patterns..................................................................................................................................112
Checking the selected pattern ....................................................................................................................... 112
Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 113
Saving patterns.............................................................................................................................................. 114
Retrieving a pattern .......................................................................................................................................115
Realigning the pattern ...................................................................................................................................116
APPENDIX 119
Stitch Settings..................................................................................................................120
Utility stitches ...............................................................................................................................................120
Other stitches................................................................................................................................................ 124
Care and Maintenance .................................................................................................... 126
Cleaning the machine surface ................................................................................................................................ 126
Cleaning the race..........................................................................................................................................126
Removing the needle plate............................................................................................................................ 127
Troubleshooting .............................................................................................................. 128
Error messages ..............................................................................................................................................132
Nothing appears in the LCD.......................................................................................................................... 134
Operation beep.............................................................................................................................................134
Cancelling the operation beep ............................................................................................................................... 134
Index ................................................................................................................................136
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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the
“Important Safety Instructions” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the
various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be
accessed for future reference.
Sewing Machine Features
a Easy upper threading
Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition,
the needle can be threaded with a simple operation (page 28).
b One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 26).
c Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 22).
d Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches.
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Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or
damaged, contact your dealer.
Included accessories
The following items should also be included in the box.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
z Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on this machine model
NS80.
z The screw for the presser foot holder is available
through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XA4813-051)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.
26. 27. 28. * 75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle
(gold colored)
No. Part Name
1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033 16 Spool cap (large) 130012-054
2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031 17 Spool cap (medium) XE1372-001
3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 18 Spool cap (small) 130013-154
4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 19 Extra spool pin XE2241-001
5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-051 20 Spool net XA5523-020
6 Blind stitch foot “R” X56409-051
7 Button fitting foot “M” 130489-001 XC8816-021 (other areas)
8 Seam ripper X54243-051 22 Operation manual XE2408-001
9 Bobbin (4) SA156 SFB (XA5539-151) 23 Quick reference guide XE2416-001
10 Needle set X58358-021 24 Accessory bag XC4487-021
11 Twin needle X59296-121 25 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051
12 Cleaning brush X59476-021 26 Stitch pattern plate XE2441-001
13 Eyelet punch 135793-001 27 Stitch pattern plate holder XE2238-001
14 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-051 28 Hard case XE2446-001
15 Screwdriver (small) X55648-051
U.S.A./
Canada
Part Code
Others
No. Part Name
21 Foot controller
Part Code
U.S.A./
Canada
XD0501-021 (EU area)
Others
Accessories 9
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■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate
The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the
presser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the stitch
pattern plate holder, and then attach the holder to the handle of the sewing machine as shown in the
illustration below.
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories.
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6. 7.
8. 9.
No. Part Name
1 Side cutter SA177
2 Quilting guide SA132
3 Wide table SA552
4 Walking foot SA140
5 Quilting foot SA129
6 Adjustable zipper/piping foot SA161
U.S.A./
Canada
Part Code
Others
F054
(XC3879-002)
F016N
(XC2215-002)
WT8
(XE2472-001)
F033N
(XC2214-002)
F005N
(XC1948-002)
F036N
(XC1970-002)
10.
No. Part Name
7 Non stick foot SA114
8 Open toe foot SA147
9 Stitch guide foot “P” SA160
10 1/4 inch quilting foot SA125
1/4 inch quilting foot with
11
guide
11.
U.S.A./
Canada
SA185
Memo
z To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact the nearest authorized dealership.
z All specifications are correct at the time of printing. The part codes are subject to change without
notice.
Part Code
Others
F007N
(XC1949-002)
F027N
(XC1964-002)
F035N
(XC1969-002)
F001N
(XC1944-052)
F057
(XC7416-252)
z Visit your Brother dealer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before
using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Machine
a Bobbin winder (page 22)
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
b Spool pin (page 22, 28)
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
c Thread tension dial (page 57)
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.
d Bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disk (page
22)
Pass the thread around this thread guide and around the
pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.
e Thread take-up lever (page 30)
Slide the thread into the thread take-up lever from the
right side of slot to the left side of slot.
f Thread cutter (page 56)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
g Flatbed attachment (page 46)
Store presser feet and bobbins in the flatbed attachment.
Remove the flatbed attachment when sewing cylindrical
pieces such as sleeve cuffs.
h Operation buttons (page 12)
Use these buttons and the slider to start the sewing
machine and raise and lower the needle.
i Operation panel (page 13)
Use to select stitches and various other stitch settings.
j Handwheel
Turn the handwheel toward you to sew one stitch or to
raise or lower the needle.
k Main power switch (page 17)
Use this switch to turn the sewing machine on and off.
l Power supply jack (page 17)
Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply
jack.
m Foot controller jack (page 52)
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
n Feed dog position switch (page 85)
Use this switch to lower the feed dogs.
o Presser foot lever (page 28)
Raise and lower this lever to raise and lower the presser
foot.
p Thread guide (page 24)
Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
q Thread guide cover (page 24)
Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
r Air vent
This vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
circulate.
s Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 11
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Needle and presser foot section
d Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser
foot in place.
e Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure to the fabric during
sewing. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the
selected stitch.
f Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case
and race.
g Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric.
h Quick lower threader
Begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
i Bobbin cover/race
Remove the bobbin cover to insert the bobbin into the
race.
j Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew
straight seams.
k Needle bar thread guide
a Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader to thread the needle.
b Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
c Presser foot holder
The presser foot is attached to the presser foot holder.
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
guide.
l Presser foot lever
Raise and lower this lever to raise and lower the presser
foot.
m Needle clamp screw
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
a Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a low speed at the beginning of sewing
while the button is continuously pressed. When sewing
is stopped, the needle is lowered into the fabric. For
details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 52).
b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 54).
c Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
d Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to
adjust the sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to reduce
the sewing speed, or slide the speed controller to the
right to increase the sewing speed.
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Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal
display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.
1
2
3
5
4
8
9
@
7
6
A
C
a LCD (liquid crystal display)
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for
incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b
and f through n, described below, to display various
items and select the settings. For details, refer to
“Understanding the LCD Screens” (page 18).
b Settings key
Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for left/
right mirror imaging, or other settings such as the
operation beep.
c Needle position key
Press this key to raise or lower the needle.
d Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key
Press this key to select the automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching setting. Press this key again to
cancel the setting.
e Needle mode selection key (single/twin)
Press this key to select the twin needle sewing setting.
Each time this key is pressed, the setting switches
between single needle sewing and twin needle sewing.
f Stitch width keys
Press or to adjust the stitch width setting.
g Stitch length keys
Press or to adjust the stitch length setting.
B
D
■ Stitch mode keys (h-j)
h Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
Press this key to select the utility stitch assigned to a
numeric key or to retrieve a pattern that has been saved.
Each time this key is pressed, the machine switches
between the preset utility stitch mode and the saved
pattern mode.
i Utility stitch key
Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch,
buttonhole, blind hem stitch, decorative stitch, satin
stitch, or cross-stitch. Use the numeric keys to type in
the number of the desired stitch.
j Character/utility decorative stitch key
Press this key to select character stitch mode or utility
decorative stitch mode, where patterns can be
combined. Each time this key is pressed, the machine
switches between utility decorative stitch mode and
character stitch mode.
k Memory key
Press this key to save stitch patterns, such as combined
patterns, in the sewing machine's memory.
l OK key
Press this key to apply the selection or perform the
operation.
m Cancel/clear key
Press this key to cancel the operation and return to the
previous screen.
In addition, pressing this key removes the last pattern
added when combining characters or decorative
stitches.
n Numeric keys
Use these keys to quickly select one of the ten most
often used stitches. When selecting other stitches, use
these keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 13
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1 GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ..................................................................................16
Turning on the machine .....................................................................................17
Turning off the machine ..................................................................................... 17
Understanding the LCD Screens..............................................................................18
Changing the Machine Settings ...............................................................................19
Changing the settings .........................................................................................19
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD...................................................................21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin................................................................................. 22
Bobbin precautions ............................................................................................22
Winding the bobbin ...........................................................................................22
Installing the bobbin ..........................................................................................26
Upper Threading .....................................................................................................28
Threading the upper thread................................................................................28
Threading the needle..........................................................................................31
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)..................33
Using the twin needle ........................................................................................33
Pulling up the bobbin thread..............................................................................36
Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................37
Needle precautions ............................................................................................37
Needle types and their uses................................................................................38
Checking the needle...........................................................................................39
Replacing the needle ..........................................................................................39
Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................41
Presser foot precautions .....................................................................................41
Replacing the presser foot ..................................................................................41
Removing the presser foot holder ......................................................................43
Using the optional walking foot ......................................................................... 44
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................46
Stitching cylindrical pieces.................................................................................46
Sewing large pieces of fabric..............................................................................46
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GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
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Turning on the machine
Prepare the included power cord.
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
a
off (the main power switch is set to “ ”), and
then plug the power cord into the power
supply jack on the right side of the machine.
Insert the plug of the power cord into a
b
household electrical outlet.
a Main power switch
b Power cord
Press the right side of the main power switch
c
on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
a
Press the left side of the main power switch on
b
the right side of the machine (set it to “ ”).
X The sewing lamp and the LCD go off when
the machine is turned off.
Unplug the power cord from the electrical
c
outlet.
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
cord.
Unplug the power cord from the power supply
d
jack.
1
X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on
when the machine is turned on.
Note
z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power cord.
When restarting the sewing machine, follow
the necessary procedure to correctly operate
the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact
a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Turning the Machine On/Off 17
Page 19
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Understanding the LCD Screens
The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the
selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly. The LCD displays the following
information.
1
2
4
a Presser foot that should be used
b Stitch mode
c Twin needle/needle stop position
d Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitches
e Selected stitch
f Stitch length (mm)
g Stitch width (mm)
5
6
73
Memo
z For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error
messages” (page 132).
18
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Changing the Machine Settings
Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.
Press or (Stitch length keys) until the
Changing the settings
The general procedure for changing machine settings
is described below.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Press (Settings key) in the operation
b
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
c
stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set
is displayed.
a Stitch length keys
1
1
Press or (Stitch width keys) until the
d
desired setting is selected.
X The setting is changed.
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
e
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Changing the Machine Settings 19
Page 21
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ List of stitch or machine attributes
The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the
corresponding reference page.
Attribute Icon Details Reference
Check pattern Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 112
Mirror imaging Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 113
Repeated/
single sewing
Initial needle
position
Stitch width
control
Buzzer
LCD brightness Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. page 21
Vertical pattern
adjustment
Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or
repeatedly.
Select the straight stitch that is automatically selected
when the machine is turned on.
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing
speed controller.
Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each
operation.
Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. page 116
page 112
-
page 98
page 134
Memo
z The icon shown highlighted above is the default setting.
20
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Adjusting the brightness of
the LCD
The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.
Press (Settings key) in the operation
a
panel, and then press or (Stitch length
keys) until is displayed.
X The screen for changing the brightness of the
LCD appears.
To make the LCD brighter, press (Stitch
b
width key). To make the LCD darker, press
(Stitch width key).
1
X The brightness of the LCD is changed.
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
c
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Changing the Machine Settings 21
Page 23
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this
sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).
1
4
23
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
a
a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide
b Pretension disk
c Bobbin winder shaft
d Bobbin
a Actual size
b This model
c Other model
d 11.5 mm (7/16 inch)
Memo
z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
22
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Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so
b
that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch
in the bobbin.
Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into
place.
a
b
a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right until
c
it snaps into place.
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
e
the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unwinds correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
f
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the
right, as shown, with the rounded side on the
left.
CAUTION
1
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
d
spool pin.
a
b
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread
may catch on the slit in the spool and the
needle may break.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23
Page 25
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
Memo
z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,
use the small spool cap, and leave a small
space between the cap and the spool.
h
from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,
and then pass the thread under the thread guide
cover with your left hand.
b
c
a
a Spool cap (small)
b Spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
z When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
thread, place the spool net over the spool
before placing the spool of thread onto the
spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the
size of the spool.
When the spool net is used, the tension of
a Thread guide cover
Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the
i
hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and
then wind the thread counterclockwise
between the discs, pulling it in as far as
possible.
a
the upper thread will slightly increase. Be
sure to check the thread tension. For details,
refer to “Adjusting the Thread Tension”
(page 57).
1
2
3
4
a Spool net
b Spool
c Spool cap
d Spool pin
While holding the spool with your right hand,
g
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread under the thread guide.
1
a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide
b Pretension disk
Note
z Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk.
While using your left hand to hold the thread
j
that was passed through the bobbin-winding
thread guide, use your right hand to wind the
end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin
five or six times.
a Thread guide
24
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Pass the end of the thread through the slit in
k
the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the
thread to the right to cut it.
a
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
CAUTION
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If
the bobbin is wound without cutting the
thread using the cutter built into the slit in
the bobbin winder seat, the bobbin may
not be wound correctly. In addition, the
thread may become tangled in the bobbin
or the needle may bend or break when
the bobbin thread starts to run out.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
l
(for a faster sewing speed).
When the bobbin winding becomes slow, press
n
(start/stop button) once to stop the
machine.
CAUTION
● When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
stop the machine, otherwise the sewing
machine may be damaged.
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
o
to the left, and then remove the bobbin from
the shaft.
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
p
original position.
1
a Sewing speed controller
Press (start/stop button) once.
m
X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is
wound around the bobbin.
a start/stop button
Memo
z When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
bobbin, the machine will make a clicking
sound; this is not a malfunction.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25
Page 27
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press (needle position button) once or
a
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
twice to raise the needle, and then raise the
presser foot lever.
CAUTION
● Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
a Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
●
The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not
operate correctly. Use only the included
bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part
code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).
1
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
c
ab
4
23
a Actual size
b This model
c Other model
d 11.5 mm (7/16 inch)
● Before installing the bobbin or replacing
the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing
machine, otherwise injuries may occur if
start/stop button is accidentally pressed
and the machine starts sewing.
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.
a Bobbin cover
b Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
Remove the bobbin cover.
d
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold
e
the end of the thread with your left.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
26
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Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that
f
the thread unwinds to the left side, and then
pull the thread firmly under the tab with your
left hand.
a
a Tab
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
CAUTION
● Be sure to install the bobbin so that the
thread unwinds in the correct direction,
otherwise the thread may break or the
thread tension will be incorrect.
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.
Guide the thread through the slot, and then
g
pull it toward you to cut it with the cutter.
a
b
a Slot
b Cutter
X The cutter cuts the thread.
• Make sure that the thread is correctly passed
through the flat spring of the bobbin case. If it
is not inserted correctly, reinstall the thread.
1
a
a Flat spring
Reattach the bobbin cover.
h
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover (A), and then lightly press down
on the right side (B).
B
AA
X The lower threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in “Upper Threading” (page 28).
Memo
z You can begin sewing without pulling up the
bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up
the thread according to the procedure in
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 36).
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 27
Page 29
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.
a Spool pin
b Mark on handwheel
CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread,
carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled and the needle may
bend or break.
● The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
● Use appropriate thread and needle
combinations. For details on appropriate
needle and thread combinations, refer to
“Needle types and their uses” (page 38).
● Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or
thicker cannot be used with the needle
threader.
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used,
refer to “Threading the needle manually
(without using the needle threader)”
(page 33).
Memo
z The order that the machine should be
threaded is indicated by a solid line on the
sewing machine. Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.
Threading the upper thread
Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then
thread the machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a
a Presser foot lever
CAUTION
● If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded.
28
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Press (needle position button) once or
c
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The needle is at the correct height when the
mark on the handwheel is at the top, as
shown below. Check the handwheel and, if
this mark is not at this position, press
(needle position button) until it is.
a
a Mark on handwheel
Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
e
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
f
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the
right, as shown, with the rounded side on the
left.
1
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
d
spool pin.
a
b
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread
may catch on the slit in the spool and the
needle may break.
Upper Threading 29
Page 31
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
While holding the spool with your right hand,
g
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread under the thread guide.
1
a Thread guide
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
h
from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled
out, and then pass the thread under the thread
guide cover with your left hand.
Pass the thread into the thread take-up lever
j
from the right to the left.
a
a Thread take-up lever
Memo
z If the needle is not raised, the thread take-up
lever cannot be threaded. Be sure to press
the needle position button to raise the
needle before threading the thread take-up
lever.
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread
k
guide.
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, and pulling the thread into
the guide from right to left.
a
a Thread guide cover
Thread the machine by guiding the thread
i
along the path indicated by the number on the
machine.
a
a Needle bar thread guide
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the
l
presser foot.
a
a Presser foot lever
30
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Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the
b
Threading the needle
left side of the machine.
This section describes how to thread the needle.
Memo
z The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker
cannot be used with the needle threader.
z The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle.
z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer
to “Threading the needle manually (without
using the needle threader)” (page 33).
Pull the end of the thread, which has been
a
passed through the needle bar thread guide, to
the left (A), and then firmly pull it from the
front (B) through the slit in the thread guide
disk.
a
1
a Thread cutter
Note
z When using thread that quickly winds off the
spool, such as metallic thread, it may be
difficult to thread the needle if the thread is
cut.
Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter,
pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of
thread after passing it through the thread
guide disks (marked “7”).
1
a
B
a Thread guide disk
b Thread guide
a 80 mm (3 inches) or more
b
A
Upper Threading 31
Page 33
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Lower the needle threader lever on the left
c
side of the machine, and then slowly return the
lever to its original position.
a
a Needle threader lever
X The thread is passed through the eye of the
needle.
Note
z If the needle was not completely threaded,
but a loop in the thread was formed in the
eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop
through the eye of the needle to pull out the
end of the thread.
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
d
thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the
rear of the machine.
a
a 5 cm (2 inches)
X The upper threading is finished.
Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to
begin sewing.
Note
z If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
to press (needle position button) to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.
CAUTION
● When pulling out the thread, do not pull
it with extreme force, otherwise the
needle may break or bend.
32
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Threading the needle manually
(without using the needle threader)
When using special thread, thread with a thickness of
130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twin needle
which cannot be used with the needle threader,
thread the needle as described below.
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread
a
guide.
• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page
28).
Lower the presser foot lever.
b
a
a Pressor foot lever
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
c
from front to back.
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
spool pin and the spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
ab
a Twin needle
b Extra spool pin
CAUTION
● Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-121). Use of any other needle
may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the twin needle. If the needle threader is
used with the twin needle, the sewing
machine may be damaged.
1
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
d
thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the
rear of the machine.
Install the twin needle.
a
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 39).
Thread the upper thread for the left needle
b
eye.
• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page
28).
Manually thread the left needle with the upper
c
thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
Upper Threading 33
Page 35
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Insert the extra spool pin into the end of the
d
bobbin winder shaft.
a Bobbin winder shaft
b Extra spool pin
c Thread spool
Install the thread spool and thread the upper
e
thread.
Memo
z When setting the thread spool, set it so that
the thread winds off from the front of the
spool.
Thread the upper thread for the right side in
f
the same way that the upper thread for the left
side was threaded.
Without passing the thread through the needle
g
bar thread guide, manually thread the right
needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
h
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Turn on the sewing machine.
i
1
a Thread guide cover
• For details, refer to step h through j of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 28).
X The LCD comes on.
34
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Select a stitch.
j
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
Press (Needle mode selection key).
k
Start sewing.
l
• For details on starting to sew, refer to
“Starting to sew” (page 52).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
Note
z When using the twin needle, the stitches
may become bunched together, depending
on the types of thread and fabric that are
used. If this occurs, increase the stitch
length. For details on adjusting the stitch
length, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length”
(page 59).
1
X or (Twin needle icon) appears in
the screen, and the twin needle can now be
used.
• To return to single needle sewing, press
(Needle mode selection key) until the icon
switches to or .
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the twin needle setting is not cancelled.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select the twin needle setting, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
CAUTION
● When changing the sewing direction,
press (needle position button) to raise
the needle from the fabric, and then raise
the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.
Otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
● Do not try turning the fabric with the
twin needle left down in the fabric,
otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
Upper Threading 35
Page 37
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the
e
Pulling up the bobbin thread
bobbin thread under the presser foot toward
the rear of the machine.
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
a
• Refer to steps
a through e of “Installing the
bobbin” (page 26).
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
b
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
Reattach the bobbin cover.
f
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover (A), and then lightly press down
on the right side (B).
B
While lightly holding the upper thread with
c
your left hand with the needle in the up-
AA
position, press (needle position button)
twice to lower and raise the needle.
1
a Needle position button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
d
out the end of the bobbin thread.
36
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
1
Replacing the Needle 37
Page 39
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Fabric Type/Application
Broadcloth Cotton thread
Medium
weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick
fabrics
Stretch
fabrics
Easily frayed fabrics
Flannel,
Gabardine
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Corduroy Synthetic thread
Thread
Type Weight
60–80
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Silk thread 50
Lawn Cotton thread
60–80
Denim Cotton thread 30–50
50–60
Tweed Silk thread
Jersey
Thread for knits 50–60
Tricot
Cotton thread
50–80
Size of Needle
75/11–90/14
65/9–75/11
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11–90/14
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
For top-stitching
Memo
z The lower the thread number, the thicker the
thread, and the higher the needle number,
the thicker the needle.
z Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped
stitches easily occur.
z Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the
fabric being sewn.
z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
38
Silk thread 50
Synthetic thread
50–60 90/14–100/16
Silk thread
CAUTION
● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table
above. If the combination of the fabric,
thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics
(such as denim) with thin needles (such as
65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or
break. In addition, the stitching may be
uneven or puckered or there may be
skipped stitches.
Page 40
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
1
2
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
■ Correct needle
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to
be straight according to the instructions in “Checking
the needle”.
Press (needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
1
1
a Flat surface
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
1
a Flat surface
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if (start/stop
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
Lower the presser foot lever.
c
a
a Presser foot lever
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, place fabric
or paper under the presser foot to prevent
the needle from falling into the hole in the
needle plate.
Replacing the Needle 39
Page 41
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
d
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw toward you (counterclockwise) to
remove the needle.
a
a Needle clamp screw
b Screwdriver
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
b
While holding the needle with your left hand,
f
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear
e
of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
a
a Needle stopper
40
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions
concerning the presser feet.
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the
type of stitch that you wish to sew,
otherwise the needle may hit the presser
foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically
for this sewing machine. Use of any other
presser foot may result in injuries or
damage to the machine.
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to
“Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side
cutter” (page 73).
Press (needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
1
CAUTION
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if (start/stop
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
a
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
Replacing the Presser Foot 41
Page 43
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press the black button at the back of the
d
presser foot holder.
a
b
a Black button
b Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
Place a different presser foot below the holder
e
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
a
b
c
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
g
presser foot is securely attached.
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Zigzag foot “J”
Button fitting foot “M”
a Presser foot holder
b Notch
c Pin
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
f
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.
a Presser foot lever
b Presser foot holder
c Notch
d Pin
a
b
c
a Presser foot lever
d
X The presser foot is attached.
Monogramming foot “N”
Blind stitch foot “R”
z For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 120).
42
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Hold the presser foot holder in place with your
b
Removing the presser foot
holder
right hand, and then tighten the screw using
the screwdriver in your left hand.
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
■ Removing the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
b
holder screw.
a
b
c
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
a
left side of the presser bar.
a
a Screwdriver
Note
z
If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
1
a
b
a Presser bar
b Presser foot holder
Replacing the Presser Foot 43
Page 45
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Using the optional walking
foot
With the optional walking foot, both pieces of fabric
are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the
presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that
are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when
sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when
quilting.
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
■ Attaching the walking foot
Remove the presser foot holder.
a
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 43).
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
b
onto the needle clamp screw.
a
CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle
may touch the presser foot, causing it to
bend or break.
●
Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch
the presser foot. If the needle hits the
presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Note
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.
■ Removing the walking foot
Press (needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
b
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser
c
foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
with the screwdriver.
a Presser foot holder screw
a
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
a
44
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot
d
holder screw, and then remove the walking
foot.
a
a Presser foot holder screw
Attach the presser foot holder.
e
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 43).
Memo
z Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
z The optional walking foot is available
through your Brother dealer.
1
Replacing the Presser Foot 45
Page 47
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces
When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
a
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
b
arm, and then sew from the top.
Sewing large pieces of fabric
The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of
fabric easier.
Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide
a
table.
Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
b
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,
c
install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
46
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Install the wide table.
c
Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into
place. The lower right corner section of the
wide table extends over the front section of the
sewing machine bed.
a Lower right corner
b Sewing machine bed
1
Note
z The optional wide table is available through
your Brother dealer.
Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to
d
adjust their height so the wide table will be
level with the sewing machine bed.
2
Install the flat bed attachment back in its
f
original position.
1
CAUTION
● Do not move the sewing machine while
the wide table is attached, otherwise
damage or injuries may occur.
When you are finished using the wide table,
e
remove it.
While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it
off to the left.
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 47
Page 49
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
48
Page 50
2 SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Sewing.....................................................................................................................50
General sewing procedure .................................................................................50
Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................51
Starting to sew ...................................................................................................52
Securing the stitching .........................................................................................54
Cutting the thread ..............................................................................................56
Adjusting the Thread Tension..................................................................................57
Changing the tension of the upper thread ..........................................................57
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ....................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch width ..................................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................59
Useful Functions......................................................................................................60
Changing the needle stop position .....................................................................60
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................62
Trial sewing........................................................................................................62
Changing the sewing direction
Sewing curves ....................................................................................................62
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................... 62
Sewing thin fabrics ............................................................................................. 63
Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................................................................63
Sewing an even seam allowance ........................................................................64
.............................................................................62
..........................................60
Page 51
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Use the correct presser foot for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle
may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● When sewing, make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle
may break or bend.
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
1 Turn on the machine.
2 Select the stitch.
3 Attach the presser foot.
4 Position the fabric.
5 Start sewing.
6 Cut the thread.
Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine,
refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 17).
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on
selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 67).
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing
the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric,
refer to “Positioning the fabric” (page 51).
Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 52).
Cut the thread at the end of sewing. For details on cutting the thread,
refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 56).
↓
↓
↓
↓
↓
50
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Lower the presser foot lever.
The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.
Press (needle position button) once or
b
twice to raise the needle.
e
a
a Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
2
a Needle position button
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
c
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
While holding the end of the thread and the
d
fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) with your right
hand to lower the needle to the starting point
of the stitching.
Sewing 51
Page 53
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press (start/stop button) once.
Starting to sew
b
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the sewing speed controller or the foot
controller.
Note
Important:
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start
sewing.
■ Using the operation buttons
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button (start/stop button).
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
a
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
• If you continue to hold
pressed immediately after the sewing starts,
the machine will sew at a slow speed.
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
c
d
■ Using the foot controller
(start/stop button) once.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
X For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 56).
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
(start/stop button)
52
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
When connecting the foot controller, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent
the machine from accidentally being started.
Page 54
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
b
the side of the sewing machine.
a Foot controller jack
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
z Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model NS80.
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
e
press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
1
a Slower
b Faster
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
When the end of the stitching is reached,
f
completely release the foot controller.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
2
2
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
d
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller will be the foot controller’s
maximum sewing speed.
Sewing 53
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SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
When you are finished sewing, raise the
g
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
56).
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start
sewing.
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needle stays up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 60).
Securing the stitching
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
a
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
CAUTION
● Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
● Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
Press (start/stop button) or press down on
b
the foot controller.
At this time, if
down, the machine sews at a low speed.
(start/stop button) is held
54
a Start/stop button
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
X The machine starts sewing.
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press (reverse/
c
reinforcement stitch button).
Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
held down until you reach the beginning of the
stitching.
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X While (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is held down, reverse stitches are
sewn.
After sewing back to the beginning of the
d
stitching, release (reverse/reinforcement
stitch button).
X The machine stops sewing.
Press (start/stop button), or press down
e
on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
f
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are
sewn.
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
g
release (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).
X The machine stops sewing.
Press (start/stop button), or press down
h
on the foot controller.
At this time, if (start/stop button) is held
down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
i
sewing machine stops.
Press (start/stop button) or release foot
controller.
1
3
1
2
5
4
6
2
a Beginning of stitching
b End of stitching
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
When sewing stitches other than straight or
zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse
stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement
stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5
stitches on top of each other.
2
X While (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is held down, reverse stitches are
sewn.
1
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching
2
Memo
z Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 120).
Sewing 55
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SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads with
the thread cutter on the side of the machine.
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
a
sewing machine is stopped, if the needle is not
raised, press (needle position button) once
to raise the needle.
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a
a Presser foot lever
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
c
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
a
a Thread cutter
56
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they
are equal.
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen
Changing the tension of the
upper thread
the upper thread.
You may need to change the thread tension,
depending on the fabric and thread being used.
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
1
2
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
■ Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
4
1
2
■ Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
5
1
2
3
4
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten
the upper thread.
2
3
5
4
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
Note
z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it
may not be possible to set the correct thread
tension. If the correct thread tension cannot
be achieved, rethread the upper thread and
insert the bobbin correctly.
Adjusting the Thread Tension 57
Page 59
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a
stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of
values within which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
Adjusting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to
make the stitch wider or narrower.
–
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
+
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
To make the stitch width narrower, press
c
(Stitch width key). To make the stitch width
wider, press (Stitch width key).
Memo
z To reset the stitch width to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
z If the straight stitch (left needle position or
triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing
the stitch width changes the needle position.
Increasing the width moves the needle to the
right; reducing the width moves the needle
to the left.
z The sewing machine can be set so that the
stitch width can easily be changed with the
sewing speed controller. For details, refer to
“Satin stitching using the sewing speed
controller” (page 98).
z indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
X The stitch width is changed.
58
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
To make the stitch length shorter, press
Adjusting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch
longer or shorter.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
c
(Stitch length key). To make the stitch length
longer, press (Stitch length key).
X The stitch length is changed.
–
+
2
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
Memo
z To reset the stitch length to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
z indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 59
Page 61
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Changing the needle stop
position
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is
stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead
leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Press (Needle position key).
b
X or (Needle stop position icon)
appears in the screen, and the machine is
now set to stop with the needle in the raised
position.
Automatically sewing reverse/
reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and
end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or
reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch
that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
• To return the machine to the setting where
the needle is stopped in the lowered position,
press (Needle position key) until the
icon changes to or .
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the needle stop position setting is not
cancelled.
60
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press (Automatic reverse/reinforcement
c
stitch key).
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
X (Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch
icon) appears in the screen, and the sewing
machine is set for automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching.
• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching off, press (Automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitch key) until the icon
disappears.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
e
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
2
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
d
then press (start/stop button) once.
a Start/stop button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
Memo
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT be
sewn until (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is pressed. (start/stop button)
may be pressed to stop stitching when
needed such as for pivoting corners.
Useful Functions 61
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SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips
when sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After a stitch is selected, the machine automatically
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that was
selected.
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
a
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine stopped
sewing, press (needle position button) to
lower the needle.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
b
fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
“Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 64).
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Sewing thick fabrics
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
c
sewing.
62
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
Page 64
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
a
b
a Sewing direction
b Misalignment
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
a
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
lever.
Press the black button (presser foot holding
b
pin) on the left side of zigzag foot “J”. Keep
the button held in and lower the presser foot.
a
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
c
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to
feed.
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
CAUTION
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under
the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When
you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
2
a Black button
Note
z The presser foot needs to be in a level
position before pressing the black button
(presser foot holding pin) on the left side of
zigzag foot “J”.
a
a Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.
a
a Basting
Useful Sewing Tips 63
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SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing an even seam
allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1
2
a Seam
b Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8
inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
1
2
a Seam
b Presser foot
c Centimeters
d Inches
e Needle plate
f 16 mm (5/8 inch)
64
5
4
3
6
Page 66
3 UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Selecting Stitching ............................... 66
Selecting stitch types and patterns
Selecting stitching ..........................67
Overcasting Stitches ............................71
Sewing overcasting stitches
using overcasting foot “G”............. 71
Sewing overcasting stitches
using zigzag foot “J” ......................72
Sewing overcasting stitches
using the optional side cutter .........73
Basic Stitching ..................................... 75
Basic stitching ................................75
Blind Hem Stitching ............................ 77
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing....79
Buttonhole sewing.......................... 80
Button sewing ................................84
Zipper Insertion................................... 86
Inserting a centered zipper ............86
Inserting a side zipper....................88
Sewing Stretch Fabrics
and Elastic Tape................................... 91
Stretch stitching ............................. 91
Elastic attaching .............................91
Appliqué, Patchwork
and Quilt Stitching ..............................93
Appliqué stitching ..........................94
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching
Piecing ...........................................95
Quilting..........................................96
Free-motion quilting....................... 97
Satin stitching using the sewing
speed controller ............................. 98
.......66
.........95
Reinforcement Stitching ....................100
Triple stretch stitching..................100
Bar tack stitching..........................100
Eyelet Stitching..................................102
Decorative Stitching ..........................103
Fagoting........................................104
Scallop stitching ...........................105
Smocking......................................105
Shell tuck stitching .......................106
Joining ..........................................107
Heirloom stitching........................107
Sewing the Various Built-In
Decorative Patterns ...........................110
Sewing beautiful patterns............. 110
Sewing patterns ............................110
Combining patterns ......................111
Repeat sewing patterns.................112
Checking the selected pattern ......112
Mirror imaging the pattern...........113
Retrieving a pattern...................... 115
Realigning the pattern ..................116
Page 67
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Preset utility stitch
Selecting stitch types and
patterns
A stitch can be selected from the following types
available.
Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct
select (by pressing the key for a specific stitch) or
number selection (by entering the number for the
stitch pattern).
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to
“Stitch Settings” (page 120).
■ Direct selection
The most frequently used utility stitches
have been assigned to the numeric keys.
These stitches can be selected simply by
pressing the key.
Saved patterns
Frequently used patterns and combined
patterns can be saved on the machine's
memory and easily retrieved using
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key) and
the numeric keys. For details, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 114).
After pressing (Preset utility stitch/saved
pattern key) to select the stitch mode, press the
numeric key assigned with the desired stitch.
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:
preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern
mode . When the machine is turned on or
when the (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
key) is pressed, the machine enters preset utility
stitch mode, indicated by in the lower-left
corner of the screen. To enter saved pattern
mode, indicated by in the lower-left corner
of the screen, press the (Preset utility stitch/
saved pattern key). Each press of (Preset
utility stitch/saved pattern key) switches the mode
between the preset utility stitch mode and
saved pattern mode .
1
/
■ Number selection
After pressing (Utility stitch key) or
(Character/utility decorative stitch key) to select
the stitch mode, use the numeric keys to type in
the number for the desired stitch.
1
2
/
3
a Utility stitch key
b Character/utility decorative stitch key
c Numeric keys
Utility stitches (No.01-80)
There are 80 utility stitches, including
straight stitches, overcasting stitches,
buttonhole stitches, decorative stitches,
satin stitches and cross-stitches.
2
a Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
b Numeric keys
66
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Character stitches (No.01-55)
There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.
If (Character/utility decorative stitch key) is
pressed once, character stitch mode is selected.
Character stitches are sewn in the Gothic font.
Utility decorative stitches (No.01-62)
Some utility stitches can be used as
decorative stitches. There are 62 of these
stitches.
Multiple patterns can be combined in the utility
decorative stitch mode .
If (Character/utility decorative stitch key) is
pressed once, character stitch mode is
selected. If (Character/utility decorative
stitch key) is pressed twice, utility decorative
stitch mode is selected. Each press of
(Utility decorative/character stitch key) switches
the mode between character stitch mode
and utility decorative stitch mode .
Selecting stitching
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch. Ten of the most often used utility stitches can
quickly be selected with the numeric keys.
Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch
(left needle position) is selected.
The machine can also be set to select the straight
stitch (center needle position). For details, refer to
“Changing the settings” (page 19).
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
a
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
a Stitch pattern plate
3
Determine which presser foot should be used
b
with the selected stitch.
The presser feet are stored in the accessory
compartment.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
Attach the presser foot.
c
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Turn on the sewing machine.
d
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected in the LCD.
After selecting the stitch mode, select the
e
stitch pattern.
Selecting Stitching 67
Page 69
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ With direct selection
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:
preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern
mode .
Press (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
a
key) to select the stitch mode.
: Preset utility stitch
The 10 stitch patterns printed on the
numeric keys can be selected directly.
appears in the lower-left corner of the
screen when the machine is turned on or
when (Preset utility stitch/saved
pattern key) is pressed.
: Saved patterns
The 3 stitch patterns saved with the
numeric keys can be selected directly.
appears in the lower-left corner of the
screen when (Preset utility stitch/
saved pattern key) is pressed.
X When a direct selection mode is selected,
appears in the screen.
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen
for selecting the stitch appears with the icon
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
However, when the machine is turned on,
appears only in the lower-left corner of
the screen and does not appear in the center
of the screen.
■ With number selection
There are three modes of stitches that can be
selected by number: utility stitch mode ,
character stitch mode and utility decorative
stitch mode .
Press the stitch mode key for the stitch that
a
you wish to use.
Utility stitches
80 utility stitches, including decorative
stitches, satin stitches and cross-stitches,
are available.
Character stitches
55 letters, symbols and numbers are
available in the Gothic font.
When (Character/utility decorative
stitch key) is pressed once.
Utility decorative stitches
62 utility decorative stitches are available.
When (Character/utility decorative
stitch key) is pressed twice.
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen
for selecting the stitch appears with the icon
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
Example: utility decorative stitches
Example: preset utility stitch
Press the key assigned with the stitch to select
b
the stitch.
• Continue with step f (on page 69).
68
Memo
z When pressing a stitch mode key multiple
times, continue pressing the key after the
icon for the stitch mode appears in the
lower-left corner of the screen.
Page 70
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Use the numeric keys to type in the two-digit
b
number for the desired stitch.
For stitches 01 through 09, the stitch can also
be selected by using the numeric keys to type in
a one-digit number, then pressing (OK
key).
X After the entered number appears in the
center of the screen, the stitch is selected.
Example
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
• If the first number (tens when entering two-
digit numbers, ones when entering one-digit
numbers) was incorrectly entered, press
(Cancel/clear key) to erase the entered
number.
• If an incorrect two-digit number was entered,
an error beep is sounded, and the entered
number is cleared.
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
f
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, begin on page 71.
■ To select a different stitch
Check the icon in the lower-left corner of the
screen for the current mode.
The current mode is indicated.
To select a stitch in the same mode as the
current one
• In the utility stitch mode, simply type in the
number for the desired stitch.
• In the decorative stitch mode and character
stitch mode, press (Cancel/clear key) to
cancel the stitch, and then type in the
number for the desired stitch.
• However, if the currently selected stitch was
sewn at least one time, typing in a stitch
number switches to the new stitch, even if
the previous stitch was not canceled.
Memo
z Patterns can be combined by selecting a
different decorative stitch while a stitch is
selected. For details, refer to “Saving
patterns” (page 114).
3
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
Memo
z For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length” (page 58).
Selecting Stitching 69
Page 71
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
To select a stitch in a different mode as the
current one
• After selecting a different mode, type in the
number for the desired stitch. (Refer to steps
e on pages 67 through 69.)
When switching from the utility stitch mode to
the decorative stitch or character stitch mode or
the other way around, all stitches that have been
selected are erased so that a new stitch can be
selected. A screen similar to the one shown
below appears, allowing you to confirm whether
or not to erase the stitches.
• To erase the stitch and select a different one,
press (OK key), and then change the
stitch mode.
• To stop the current stitch from being erased,
press (Cancel/clear key) to return to the
previous screen.
Memo
z After changing stitch settings such as the
stitch length and width or after combining
patterns, the stitch pattern can be saved with
its current settings. For details, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 114).
70
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Fifteen stitches are
available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the
presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
Pattern
Stitch Name
08
Overcasting
stitch
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
c
09
10
Numeric
Key
–
G
Preventing fraying in
medium weight and
thin fabrics
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and
fabrics that fray easily
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
e
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
a Needle drop point
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.0
(1/16)
(3/32)
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(1/16–3/16)
1
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
Presser
Foot
3
G
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
d
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
a
a Guide
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
Overcasting Stitches 71
Page 73
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Six stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.
Numeric
Key
–
Preventing fraying
(center baseline/
reverse stitching)
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and
stretch fabrics
Stitch Name
Zigzag stitch
(center
needle
position)
2-point
zigzag stitch
3-point
Pattern
05
06
07
zigzag stitch
Overcasting
stitch
11
12
13
Preventing fraying in
–
stretch fabrics
Preventing fraying in
–
thick fabrics and
stretch fabrics
Preventing fraying in
–
stretch fabrics
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
d
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
Presser
Foot
J
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
72
a
a Needle drop point
a
a
Page 74
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Four stitches can
be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
Stitch Name
Overcasting
stitch
Pattern
01
08
09
21
Application
Sewing straight stitches while
cutting the fabric
Preventing fraying in thin and
medium weight fabrics while
cutting the fabric
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
Sewing zigzag stitches while
cutting the fabric
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
(0)
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.5
(3/32)
(1/64–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
1.4
(1/16)
Presser
Foot
0.2–5.0
1.0–4.0
S
1.0–4.0
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
When using the side cutter, adjust the stitch width setting to a value within the range indicated in the table
above.
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
d
onto the needle clamp screw.
3
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Lower the presser foot lever, and then
b
manually thread the needle.
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the
needle threader is used with the side cutter,
the sewing machine may be damaged.
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
e
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
b
a
a Notch in presser foot holder
b Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
Overcasting Stitches 73
Page 75
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
f
side cutter is securely attached.
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
g
and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.
Select a stitch.
h
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in
i
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
1
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
j
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
a
a Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
k
sewing.
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
a 2 cm (3/4 inch)
74
1
a 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Memo
z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
z After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
z The optional side cutter is available through
your Brother dealer.
Page 76
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
Numeric
Key
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or
pintucks (left baseline/
reverse stitching)
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or
pintucks (center
baseline/reverse
stitching)
Reinforcing seams
and sewing stretch
fabrics
Stitch Name
Straight stitch
(left needle
position)
Straight stitch
(center
needle
position)
Triple stretch
stitch
Pattern
01
02
03
Basic stitching
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
(0)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0
(0)
g
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
56).
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.5
(3/32)
(3/32)
(3/32)
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
(1/16–3/16)
0.2-5.0
0.2-5.0
1.5–4.0
Presser
Foot
J
3
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
d
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
e
beginning of the stitching.
Start sewing.
f
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
(page 54).
Basic Stitching 75
Page 77
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ Changing the needle position
The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle
position) and the straight stitch (center needle
position).
12
a Straight stitch (left needle position)
b Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left
needle position) is set to its standard setting
(0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm
(1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between
0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
1
0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0
543
6
2
a Stitch width setting
b Distance from the needle position to the right
side of the presser foot
c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width”
(page 58).
76
Page 78
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Numeric
Key
–
Application
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight
fabrics
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
Stitch Name
Blind hem
stitch
Pattern
14
15
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
a
hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch)
from the edge of the fabric.
4
2
1
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting stitching
c Desired edge of hem
d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and
b
then position the fabric with the wrong side
3
facing up.
2
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
00
– 3← →3
(0)
00
– 3← →3
(0)
Attach blind stitch foot “R”.
e
2.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
R
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
f
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
R
a
a Wrong side of fabric
b Fold of hem
c Guide
b
c
Presser
Foot
R
3
1
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select a stitch.
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Blind Hem Stitching 77
Page 79
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly
g
catches the fold of the hem.
R
a Needle
b Needle drop point
c Fold of hem
1
–
+
b
a
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
The needle is too far to the right.
Press (of the Stitch width keys) to
increase the stitch width so that the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
c
1 2
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width, refer
to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length”
(page 58).
a Stitch width
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
The needle is too far to the left.
Press (of the Stitch width keys) to
decrease the stitch width so that the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
1 2
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
h
presser foot guide.
Remove the basting stitching.
i
1 2
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
78
Page 80
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Ten stitches are available for sewing one-step
buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons.
Stitch Name
Buttonhole
stitch
Button-
sewing stitch
Pattern
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
53
Numeric
Key
Application
Horizontal
buttonholes on thin
–
and medium weight
fabrics
Horizontal
buttonholes on areas
–
that are subject to
strain
Horizontal
–
buttonholes on thick
fabrics
Buttonholes with bar
tacks on both ends for
stabilized fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch
–
or knit fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch
–
fabrics
– Bound buttonholes
Keyhole buttonholes
–
for thick or plush
fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes
–
for medium weight
and thick fabrics
Horizontal buttonhole
–
for thick or plush
fabrics
– Button sewing
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
6.0
(15/64)
5.0
(3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
1.0
(1/16)
1.5
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
––M
Presser
Foot
3
A
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 79
Page 81
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1
1
1
a Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
1
2
5
3
4
A
a Button guide plate
b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
1
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
a
and length of the buttonhole.
a
a Marks on fabric
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
b
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
b
be put through the buttonhole.
80
Page 82
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
2
3
a Presser foot scale
b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of
button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of
15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm
(3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set
to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
Position the fabric with the front end of the
e
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on
the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1
A
2
a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in
the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
3
1
2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Select a stitch.
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
a
a Do not reduce the gap.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
f
possible.
a
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 81
Page 83
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
g
your left hand, and then start sewing.
1
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,
h
and then remove the fabric.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
i
position.
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
j
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.
1
a Pin
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and
k
open the buttonhole.
a Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
CAUTION
● When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
● Do not use the seam ripper in any other
way than how it is intended.
■ Changing the density of the stitching
Adjust the stitch length.
–
+
1
a Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
82
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 59).
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), decrease the density of the
stitching.
Page 84
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ Changing the stitch width
Adjust the stitch width.
–
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
+
Memo
z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select stitch 46 or 47.
c
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
d
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
e
gimp thread.
Lower the presser foot lever and the
f
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
g
thread to remove any slack.
3
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use
a gimp thread.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
a
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely
tie it.
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
h
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
i
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
Note
z If gimp thread is not available use a thread
or cord of at least 12 weight.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 83
Page 85
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
f
Button sewing
the distance between the holes in the button.
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
Measure the distance between the holes in the
a
button to be attached.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
b
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
machine on the base, to (to the left as
seen from the rear of the machine).
a
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Select stitch
d
53
.
Place the button into button fitting foot “M”.
g
a
a Button
X The button is held in place.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
Turn the handwheel toward you
h
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
If it seems as if the needle will hit the button,
remeasure the distance between the holes in
the button. Adjust the stitch width to the
distance between the button holes.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Attach button fitting foot “M”.
e
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
84
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Page 86
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Start sewing.
i
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so
that the speed will be slow).
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• If additional strength is needed to secure the
button, perform the button-sewing operation
twice.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
j
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching
to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it
with the bobbin thread.
■ Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,
a
and then pull the shank lever toward you.
1
a Shank lever
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread
b
with plenty of excess, wind it around the
thread between the button and the fabric, and
then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching on
the wrong side of the fabric.
3
When you are finished attaching the button,
k
slide the drop feed lever to (to the right
as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise
the feed dogs.
a
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
Memo
z The feed dog position switch is normally set
to the right side (as seen from the rear of
machine).
z The feed dogs come up when you start
sewing again.
Cut off any excess thread.
c
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 85
Page 87
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
Stitch Name
Straight stitch
(center
needle
position)
Pattern
02
Numeric
Key
Application
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed
seams and pintucks
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Presser
Foot
I
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side
zipper are described below.
Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the
c
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
fabric.
1
against each other.
3
2
b
4
a
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c
a Right side of fabric
b Stitching
c End of zipper opening
c Wrong side of fabric
d End of zipper opening
Press open the seam allowance from the
d
wrong side of the fabric.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches
b
up to the zipper opening.
1
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
75).
86
a Wrong side of fabric
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
e
and then baste the zipper in place.
2
1
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting stitching
c Zipper
Page 88
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Select stitch
f
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
02
.
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
g
of zipper foot “I”.
1
I
2
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Topstitch around the zipper.
h
1
2
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c Basting stitching
d End of zipper opening
3
4
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Remove the basting stitching.
i
3
Zipper Insertion 87
Page 89
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press open the seam allowance from the
d
Inserting a side zipper
wrong side of the fabric.
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this
type of zipper application for side openings and back
openings.
a
b
c
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the
b
fabric.
1
1
a Wrong side of fabric
Press the seam allowance so that the right side
e
(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).
1
2
a Wrong side of fabric
b 3 mm (1/8 inch)
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of
f
the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
3
2
4
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c Wrong side of fabric
d End of zipper opening
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches
c
up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
75).
2
1
a Zipper teeth
b Basting stitching
Select stitch
g
02
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
88
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Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
h
of zipper foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
1
I
2
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
i
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
of the zipper.
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
k
baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
1
a Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
l
of zipper foot “I”.
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step
h, change it to the left pin.
1
I
2
3
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
j
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
a Pin on the left side
b Needle drop point
Topstitch around the zipper.
m
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the side
of the presser foot.
3
2
1
a Right side of fabric
b End of zipper opening
c Reverse stitches
d Beginning of stitching
e Basting stitching
4
5
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Zipper Insertion 89
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
n
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
Remove the basting stitching.
o
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Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Name
Stretch stitch
2-point
zigzag stitch
3-point
zigzag stitch
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
Pattern
04
06
07
31
Numeric
Key
–
–
Application
Stretch fabrics
Attaching elastic
Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
1.0
(1/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16)
(1/16)
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
1.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
0.2–4.0
0.2–4.0
0.2–4.0
Presser
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Select stitch
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
04
.
J
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
a
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
Foot
J
3
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
d
1
2
a Elastic tape
b Pin
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 91
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
d
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
e
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
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Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Name
Zigzag stitch
Appliqué
stitch
Piecing
straight stitch
Pattern
05
21
16
22
23
18
19
26
Numeric
Key
Application
Attaching appliqués
(center baseline/
reverse stitching)
Appliqué quilting,
–
free-motion quilting,
satin stitching
– Attaching appliqués
Attaching appliqués
–
and binding
Attaching appliqués
–
and binding
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm
–
(1/4 inch) from the
right edge of the
presser foot)
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm
–
(1/4 inch) from the left
edge of the presser
foot)
–
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5
(1/16)
1.5
(1/16)
5.5
(7/32)
1.5
(1/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
1.4
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.8
(1/16)
1.8
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.2
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Presser
Foot
3
J
Joining stitch
Mock hand
quilting stitch
Quilting
stippling
27
28
20
Patchwork stitching
–
–
Straight stitch quilting
–
that looks hand
quilting
24
– Stippling
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0
(0)
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 93
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
Appliqué stitching
f
J
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
a
allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and
3/16 inch).
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
1
foot” (page 41).
Turn the handwheel toward you
g
(counterclockwise), and then begin sewing
around the edge of the appliqué, making sure
that the needle drops just outside of the
a Seam allowance
appliqué.
Place a pattern made of thick paper or
b
stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then
fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
• Remove the thick paper after pressing the
seam allowance.
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it
c
onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
1
a Basting stitching
Turn on the sewing machine.
d
Select a stitch.
e
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
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Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
a
place it over the lower piece.
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
b
pattern spans over both pieces.
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
a
fabric that you wish to piece together.
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select stitch
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
d
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
18
or
19
.
J
3
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
e
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with
the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
18
.
1
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 95
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
Quilting
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
19
.
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
1
optional quilting guide.
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Select a stitch.
c
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
• For details, refer to “Selecting Stitching”
(page 66).
Memo
z To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
Attach the walking foot.
d
• For details, refer to “Using the optional
walking foot” (page 44).
Place one hand on each side of the presser
e
foot, and hold fabric taut while sewing.
Note
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.
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■ Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the
a
hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser
foot holder.
Walking foot
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using
the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved
freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
b
holder.
• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder”
(page 43).
3
Presser foot holder
Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that
b
the guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.
Note
z The optional quilting guide is available
through your Brother dealer.
Secure the quilting foot with the presser foot
c
holder screw.
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
a
c
b
a Pin on quilting foot
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
d
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
a
a Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 97
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UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of
e
the machine on the base, to (to the left as
seen from the rear of the machine).
Satin stitching using the
sewing speed controller
A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the
stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is
set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the
a
sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly
and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed
is adjusted with the foot controller.
Connect the foot controller.
a
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
a Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of
the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
f
stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, and
g
then move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
b
c
52).
Turn on the sewing machine.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
a Pattern
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
h
lever to (to the right as seen from the rear
of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.
a
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at
the right.
a
Press (Settings key) in the operation
d
panel.
X The settings screen appears.
Press or (Stitch length keys) until
e
is displayed.
X The screen for specifying that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller appears.
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— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press or (Stitch width keys) to select
f
g
h
.
To return to , press or (Stitch
width keys).
X The machine is now set so that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller.
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Select stitch
21
.
When you are finished sewing, set the stitch
j
width control setting back to OFF.
Memo
z
Although the stitching result differs depending
on the type of fabric being sewn and the
thickness of the thread being used, for best
results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3
and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).
While sewing, slide the sewing speed
i
controller to adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the width
narrower. Slide the controller to the right to
make the width wider.
a Narrower
b Wider
12
• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot
controller.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 99
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