Brother PS100 User's Guide
Operation Manual
Sewing Machine
Product Code: 885-X01/X11/X21
888-X01/X11/X21
Manual de instrucciones
Máquina de coser
Código de producto: 885-X01/X11/X21
888-X01/X11/X21
ENGLISH
ESPAÑOL
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product
support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
Visítenos en http://solutions.brother.com donde hallará consejos para la solución
de problemas así como la lista de preguntas y respuestas más frecuentes.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions
before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To
reduce the risk of electric shock:
1 Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet immediately after
using, when cleaning, when making
any user servicing adjustments
mentioned in this manual, or if you are
leaving the machine unattended.
WARNING - To
reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric
shock, or injury to persons.
2 Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet when making any
adjustments mentioned in the
instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the
machine to the symbol “O” position
to turn it off, then grasp the plug and
pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do
not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the
electrical outlet. Do not use an
extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the
power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has
a damaged cord or plug, if it is not
working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or water is spilled
on the unit. Return the machine to the
nearest authorized dealer or service
center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
•
While the machine is stored or in use if
you notice anything unusual, such as an
odor, heat, discoloration or deformation,
stop using the machine and immediately
unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the machine, be
sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting
the machine by any other part may
damage the machine or result in the
machine falling, which could cause
injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful
not to make any sudden or careless
movements, otherwise you may
injure your back or knees.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any
air openings blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the machine
and foot control free from the build
up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot
controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the
machine directly into the electrical
outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into
any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray)
products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat
source, such as a stove or iron;
otherwise, the machine, power cord
or garment being sewn may ignite,
resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this machine on an
unstable surface, such as an unsteady
or slanted table, otherwise the
machine may fall, resulting in
injuries.
5
Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the
needle. Do not use bent or damaged
needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving
parts. Special care is required around
the machine needle.
1
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• Do not turn on the machine while
pressing down the foot controller.
The machine may start unexpectedly
and cause personal injury or damage
to the machine.
•
Switch the machine to the symbol “O”
position to turn it off when making any
adjustments in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect
needle plate, as it could cause the
needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when
sewing, and follow careful instruction
when freehand stitching so that you
do not deflect the needle and cause it
to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
Your close attention is necessary when
•
the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this machine was
supplied in should be kept out of the
reach of children or disposed of.
Never allow children to play with the
bag due to the danger of suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid
direct sunlight and high humidity
locations. Do not use or store the
machine near a space heater, iron,
halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents
to clean the case. Benzene, thinner,
and scouring powders can damage
the case and machine, and should
never be used.
•
Always consult the operation manual
when replacing or installing any
assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or
other parts to assure correct installation.
8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode)
is damaged, it must be replaced by
authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or
adjustment is required, first follow the
troubleshooting table in the back of
the operation manual to inspect and
adjust the machine yourself. If the
problem persists, please consult your
local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended
use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the
manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and
specifications of this product are
subject to change without notice.
For additional product information,
visit our web site at www.brother.com
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended
for household use.
This appliance is not intended for use by
persons (including children) with
reduced physical, sensory or mental
capabilities, or lack of experience and
knowledge, unless they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning
use of the appliance by a person
responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure
that they do not play with the appliance.
This appliance can be used by
children aged from 8 years and
above and persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental
capabilities or lack of
experience and knowledge if
they have been given
supervision or instruction
concerning use of the appliance
in a safe way and understand
the hazards involved. Children
shall not play with the
appliance. Cleaning and user
maintenance shall not be made
by children without supervision.
2
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,
MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
CONTENTS
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...........1
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING
MACHINE .................................. 4
ACCESSORIES .................................................4
Optional accessories .......................................... 4
THE MAIN PARTS ...........................................5
Flat bed attachment ............................................ 5
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................ 6
Connecting plugs ............................................... 6
Main power and sewing light switch .................. 7
Foot controller .................................................... 7
Checking the needle ........................................... 7
Replacing the needle .......................................... 7
Changing the presser foot ................................... 8
THE CONTROLS .............................................9
Pattern selection dial .......................................... 9
Patterns and stitch names ................................... 9
Reverse sewing lever ........................................ 10
THREADING THE MACHINE .......................11
Winding the bobbin ......................................... 11
Lower threading ............................................... 13
Upper threading ............................................... 14
Drawing up the lower thread ............................ 16
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE
COMBINATIONS .........................................17
2. SEWING BASICS ......................18
Please read before sewing ................................ 18
Starting sewing ................................................. 18
Trial sewing ...................................................... 19
Changing the sewing direction ......................... 19
Sewing thick fabrics ......................................... 19
Sewing thin fabrics ........................................... 20
Sewing stretch fabrics ....................................... 20
Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................... 20
Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ................. 20
Thread tension ................................................. 22
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with
the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the
plug supplied with this equipment, you should
contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct
lead.
3. BUILT-IN STITCHES ................. 23
Straight stitching ............................................... 23
Zigzag stitching ................................................. 23
Blind hem stitching ........................................... 24
Shell tuck stitching ............................................ 25
Elastic stitching .................................................25
Double action stitching ..................................... 26
Decorative stitching .......................................... 26
4. SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND
BUTTONS ............................... 27
Making a buttonhole ......................................... 27
Adjusting buttonholes ....................................... 28
Sewing buttons .................................................29
5. USING ATTACHMENTS AND
APPLICATIONS ....................... 30
Zipper insertion ................................................ 30
Gathering ..........................................................31
Darning ............................................................31
Appliqués .........................................................32
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ........................... 33
Using the walking foot ...................................... 33
Using the quilting guide .................................... 34
Using the quilting foot ...................................... 34
Using the 1/4-inch quilting foot ........................ 35
Using the narrow hemmer foot ......................... 35
Using the blind stitch foot .................................37
6. APPENDIX ................................ 38
MAINTENANCE ........................................... 38
Restrictions on oiling ........................................ 38
Precautions on storing the machine .................. 38
Cleaning ...........................................................38
TROUBLESHOOTING .................................. 40
INDEX .......................................................... 43
3
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Note
1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
ACCESSORIES
We have designed these accessories to help you easily perform most sewing tasks.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7. 8. 9.
1
No. Part Name
Zigzag foot “J”
1
(on machine)
2 Buttonhole foot “A” X59369-321
3 Zipper foot “I” XE9369-001
4 Darning Plate XC6063-021
5 Button sewing foot “M” XE2137-001
● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.
Part Code
Americas Others
XC4901-121
No. Part Name
Bobbin
6
(One is on machine)
Needle set
7
(90/14 needle)
8 Oval screwdriver XE5241-001
9 Foot controller See page 5
Part Code
Americas Others
3-piece set: XE5328-001
2-piece set: XE7064-001
SA156
SFB:
XA5539-151
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you
purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7. 8.
No. Part Name
1 Extra spool pin XE2241-001
Twin needle
2
(2.0/75 needle)
3 Walking Foot SA107
4 Quilting Foot SA129
Part Code
Americas Others
X57521-021
F034N:
XC2165-002
F005N:
XC1948-052
No. Part Name
5 1/4-inch Quilting Foot SA125
6 Narrow Hemmer Foot SA127
7 Blind Stitch Foot SA134
8 Quilting guide SA132
Part Code
Americas Others
F001N:
XC1944-052
F003N:
XC1945-052
F018N:
XC1976-052
F016N:
XC2215-052
4
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
0
A
D
C
E
F
B
THE MAIN PARTS
1 Bobbin winder (Page 11)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the
lower thread.
2 Spool pin (Page 11, 14)
This holds the spool of thread.
3 Upper tension-control dial (Page 22)
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
4 Thread guide (Page 11, 14)
This is used when winding the thread onto the
bobbin and then threading the machine.
5 Thread take-up lever (Page 15)
6 Thread cutter (Page 19)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut
them.
7 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
(Page 5)
8 Presser foot (Page 8)
9 Reverse sewing lever (Page 10)
Push this lever to stitch in the reverse direction.
0 Pattern selection dial (Page 9)
Rotate the dial in either direction to choose the
stitch you want.
A Handwheel
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
B Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw (Page 28)
C Main power and sewing light switch (Page 7)
You can turn the main power and sewing light
switch on and off.
D Foot controller jack / socket (Page 6)
Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the
machine to the power supply.
E Presser foot lever (Page 14)
Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
F Foot controller (Page 7)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
start and stop sewing.
Foot Controller:
Model KD-1902 for 110-120V area
KD-1902 for 110-127V area (Brazil only)
Model KD-2902 for 220-240V area
The foot controller part code differs depending on the
country or region. Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
Flat bed attachment
The accessories can be stored in a compartment inside
the flat bed attachment.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
1
open it.
1 Flat bed attachment
2 Storage compartment
1
2
5
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Note
a
b
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise
a fire may result.
1
Connecting plugs
Connect the foot controller plug to the
1
machine.
Connect the power supply plug to a wall
2
outlet.
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the main
power and unplug the power supply cord.
When restarting the sewing machine, follow
the necessary procedure to correctly operate
the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to
fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the
plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse
the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.
6
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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Note
CAUTION
2
1
1
2
1
2
1
Main power and sewing
light switch
This switch turns the main power and sewing light on or off.
1 Turn on (toward the ‘I’ mark)
2 Turn off (toward the ‘O’ mark)
CAUTION
●
Do not turn on the machine while pressing
down the foot controller. The machine
may start unexpectedly and cause
personal injury or damage to the machine.
Foot controller
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder,
the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your
foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.
1 Slower
2 Faster
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot
controller when the machine is not in use.
CAUTION
● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to
build up on the foot controller. Doing so
could cause a fire or an electric shock.
Checking the needle
The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp
for smooth sewing.
■ Checking the needle correctly
Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface.
Check the needle from the top and the sides.
Dispose of any bent needles safely.
1 Parallel space
2 Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)
Replacing the needle
● Always turn off the machine before you
change the needle. Otherwise, injuries
may occur if the foot controller is
accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.
● Only use sewing machine needles for
home use. Other needles may bend or
break and cause injury.
● Never sew with a bent needle. A bent
needle will easily break and cause injury.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
Lower the presser foot lever.
3
7
(For U.S.A. only)
●
Foot Controller: Model KD-1902
This foot controller can be used on the machine
with product code 885-X11, 885-X21, 888-X11
and 888-X21.
The product code is mentioned on the machine
rating plate.
1 Presser foot lever
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CAUTION
2
3
1
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, place fabric
or paper under the presser foot to
prevent the needle from falling into the
hole in the needle plate.
Hold the needle with your left hand, and
4
then use an oval screwdriver to turn the
needle clamp screw counterclockwise to
remove the needle.
21
1 Use an oval screwdriver
2 Needle clamp screw
• Do not use excessive force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
With the flat side of the needle toward the
5
back of the machine, insert the needle
until it touches the needle stopper. Next,
tighten the needle clamp using an oval
screwdriver.
CAUTION
● Make sure you insert the needle until it
touches the stopper, and securely tighten
the needle clamp screw with an oval
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.
Changing the presser foot
● Always turn off the machine before you
change the presser foot. If you leave the
power on and step on the controller, the
machine will start and you may be
injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot for
the stitch pattern you have chosen. If
you use the wrong presser foot, the
needle may strike the presser foot and
bend or break, and may cause injury.
● Only use presser feet that have been
designed to be used with this machine.
Using any other presser foot may cause
accident or injury.
You will have to change the presser foot depending on
what you want to sew and how.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the presser foot lever.
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
Press the black button at the back of the
3
presser foot holder to release the presser
foot.
1
Install the twin needle in the same way.
1 Use an oval
screwdriver
2 Needle stopper
3 Needle
1
2
3
Put a different presser foot on the needle
4
plate so that the bar on the presser foot is
in line with the slot on the shank.
1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder
3 Presser foot
8
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
2
1
Lower the presser foot lever and fix the
5
presser foot onto the shank. If the presser
foot is in the correct place, the bar should
snap in.
2
1 Shank
2 Bar
1
THE CONTROLS
Pattern selection dial
CAUTION
● When you use the pattern selection dial
to choose a pattern, raise the needle by
turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up. If the needle is in
the down position when you turn the
pattern selection dial, the needle, presser
foot or fabric may be damaged.
To choose a stitch, simply turn the pattern selection dial
in either direction.
1 Pattern selection dial
2 Chosen pattern number
■ Presser foot installation orientation
CAUTION
● If the presser foot is not installed with
the correct orientation, the needle may
strike the presser foot, which may bend
or break the needle and cause injury.
Patterns and stitch names
■ 17 Stitches
1
10
9
Pattern
Stitch Name
4-STEP AUTOMATIC
BUTTONHOLE
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
2
3 4
11
12
1
2
3
5
6
13 14 15 16 17
Preset Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
0.5 (1/32)
5 (3/16)
1.6 (1/16)
—
1.8 (1/16)
—
7
8
Reference
Page
27
23, 31
23, 31
9
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6
7
8
9
10
11
13
15
1
Pattern
Stitch Name
4
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
5
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Left Needle Position)
ZIGZAG STITCH 1.5 (1/16)
ZIGZAG STITCH 3 (1/8)
Preset Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
2 (1/16)
2.5 (3/32)
4 (3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.7 (1/32)
1.5 (1/16)
Reference
Page
23, 31
—
23, 30, 31,
33, 34, 35,
—
—
—
37
23, 31
23, 31, 33,
34
23, 29, 32,
33, 37
23, 29, 32,
33, 37
Pattern
Stitch Name
14
STRETCH BLIND
HEM STITCH
SCALLOP STITCH 5 (3/16)
16
DOUBLE ACTION
STITCH
17
BRIDGING STITCH 5 (3/16)
Reverse sewing lever
You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and
reinforcing seams.
To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in as
far as possible and hold it in that position while you
lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward, release
the reverse sewing lever. The machine will then sew
forward.
The length of reverse stitches is fixed at 2 mm
(1/16 inch).
Preset Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
2 (1/16)
5 (3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
1.2 (1/16)
5 (3/16)
1.2 (1/16)
Reference
Page
24, 37
26
26
26
1
ZIGZAG STITCH 5 (3/16)
ZIGZAG (SATIN)
STITCH
12
SHELL TUCK STITCH 5 (3/16)
ELASTIC STITCH 5 (3/16)
2 (1/16)
0.5 (1/32)
5 (3/16)
2 (1/16)
1 (1/16)
23, 29, 32,
33, 37
23, 32, 33
25
25
1 Reverse sewing lever
10
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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CAUTION
1
3
2
1 Pull the thread
in completely.
1
THREADING THE MACHINE
Winding the bobbin
CAUTION
● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models,
the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). Using other bobbins may
cause damage to the machine.
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model Other models
Actual size
1 Pre-tension disk 2 Bobbin winder shaft 3 Bobbin
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of
1
thread on this pin.
While holding the thread from the spool
2
with your right hand, pass the thread
toward you, in the groove on the thread
guide. Then, pass the thread around the
pre-tension disk and pull the thread in
completely.
11
1 Pre-tension disk
● If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread
may tangle on the spool pin.
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CAUTION
CAUTION
Note
3
1
2
1
Pass the end of the thread through the
3
hole on the bobbin from the inside of the
bobbin.
Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder
4
shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to
the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by
hand, until the spring on the shaft slides
into the notch of the bobbin.
• Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3 - 4
inches) of thread from the hole on the
bobbin.
1 Spring on the shaft
2 Notch
3 7-10 cm (3 - 4 inches)
● Pull the thread taut and hold the end of
the thread straight up. If the thread is too
short, not pulled taut or held at an angle,
injuries may occur when the thread is
wound around the bobbin.
While holding the end of the thread,
6
gently press the foot controller to wind
the thread around the bobbin a few times.
Then stop the machine.
Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.
7
• Leave 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thread from the hole
on the bobbin.
1 1 cm (1/2 inch)
● Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the excess
thread completely before winding the
bobbin, when the thread runs low it may
tangle around the bobbin and cause the
needle to break.
Press the foot controller to start.
8
1
Turn on the machine.
5
CAUTION
● Do not turn on the machine while
pressing down the foot controller. The
machine may start unexpectedly and
cause personal injury or damage to the
machine.
When the bobbin seems full and begins
9
spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
controller.
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder
0
shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.
●
When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the thread
around the bobbin, the machine will make a
clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
12
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
1
1
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out
4
CAUTION
● Not winding the bobbin properly may
in the direction shown by the arrow.
cause the thread tension to loosen, and
may break the needle.
1 Wound evenly
2 Wound poorly
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
● Make sure you turn off the machine
while threading. If you accidentally step
on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.
Prepare the bobbin wound properly
1
before threading the lower thread.
• See page 11 for the details about bobbin
winding.
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and raise the presser
foot lever.
Remove the bobbin cover by sliding it and
3
lift toward you.
1
2
CAUTION
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the
thread unrolls in the right direction. If
the thread unrolls in the wrong
direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the
needle.
Hold the end of the thread, push the
5
bobbin down with your finger, and then
pass the thread through the slit, as shown.
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
1 Tension-adjusting spring
13
1 Bobbin cover
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CAUTION
1
2
4
3
2
2
1
5
1
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the
6
projection into the race retainer groove
and push closed.
1 Groove
2 Projection
Upper threading
1 Spool pin
2 Thread guide (back)
3 Thread guide (front)
• Make sure that the end of the thread comes
out from the cover toward the rear of the
machine (as shown in the illustration).
• Draw up the lower thread before starting
sewing. Refer to “Drawing up the lower
thread” on page 16 after threading the upper
thread.
4 Thread take-up lever
5 Mark on the handwheel
1
● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is
not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
● Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
● Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct
combination of needles and threads, refer to “FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE
COMBINATIONS” on page 17.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
1 Presser foot lever
14
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
Memo
1
1
1
1
Raise the needle by turning the
3
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine can not be threaded.
1 Mark on the wheel
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of
4
thread on this pin.
● If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread
may tangle on the spool pin and cause
the needle to break.
While holding the thread from the spool
5
with your right hand, pass the thread
toward you, in the groove on the thread
guide.
• Make sure that the spring in the groove
catches the thread.
Feed the upper thread as shown in the
6
following illustration.
Make sure you guide the thread through
7
the thread take-up lever from right to left
as shown in the following illustration.
1 Thread take-up lever
● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
upper thread can not be wrapped around
the thread take-up lever. Make sure you
raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up.
15
1 Spring
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Note
1
1
1
2
Put the thread behind the guide above the
8
needle.
• The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the
thread in your left hand, then feeding the
thread with your right hand.
Drawing up the lower
thread
While lightly holding the end of the upper
1
thread, slowly turn the handwheel toward
you (counterclockwise) by hand to lower
and then raise the needle.
1 Needle bar thread guide
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the
2
lower thread.
1
Thread the needle from front to back
9
leaving a thread tail of about 5 cm
(2 inches).
2
1
1
1 5 cm (2 inches)
● Make sure you raise the presser foot lever
and the thread take-up lever before you feed
the upper thread.
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
2
1 Upper thread
2 Lower thread
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both
3
threads and put them toward the back of
the machine under the presser foot.
1 Upper thread
2 Lower thread
16
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
Note
Memo
CAUTION
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS
Fabric Type/Application
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick fabrics
Stretch fabrics
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
● Never use a thread weighted #20 or lower. It may cause machine malfunction.
● The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the
needle.
Broadcloth Cotton thread
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Lawn Cotton thread
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Denim Cotton thread
Corduroy Synthetic thread
Tweed Silk thread
Jersey
Tricot
Type Size
Thread for knits 50–60
Cotton thread
Silk thread 50
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thread
Size of Needle
60–90
60–90
30 100/16
50
50–60
50–90
30 100/16
50–60 75/11–90/14
75/11–90/14
65/9–75/11
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(gold colored)
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
■ Ball point needle
Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
The factory recommended needle is “HG-4BR” (Organ). Schmetz needles “JERSEY BALL POINT” 130/705H SUK
90/14 may be used as a substitute.
■ Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table.
●
Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle
(65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam
to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.
17
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CAUTION
1
2 SEWING BASICS
Please read before sewing
CAUTION
● To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep
your hands away from moving parts.
● Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and
you may be injured.
● Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured.
● Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing. The needle
may break and you may be injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may hit the
presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured.
● When you turn the handwheel by hand, always turn it toward you (counterclockwise).
Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric, and
you may be injured.
● Do not start sewing without placing the fabric under the presser foot, otherwise the presser
foot may be damaged.
Raise the presser foot lever.
Starting sewing
Turn on the machine.
1
5
1
2
● Do not turn on the machine while
pressing down the foot controller. The
machine may start unexpectedly and
cause personal injury or damage to the
machine.
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
Turn the pattern selection dial to select a
3
stitch (see page 9).
Change the presser foot (see page 8).
4
1 Presser foot lever
Place the fabric under the presser foot,
6
pass the thread under the presser foot,
and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of
thread toward the rear of the machine.
1 5 cm (2 inches)
18
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
1
1
1
2
While holding the end of the thread and
7
the fabric with your left hand, turn the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) with your right hand
to lower the needle to the starting point of
the stitching.
Trial sewing
A trial piece of fabric should be sewn. Use a piece of
fabric and thread that are the same as those used for
your project, and check the thread tension and stitch
length and width.
Changing the sewing
direction
Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the
point where you want to change the sewing direction,
Lower the presser foot lever.
8
1 Presser foot lever
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
9
and then raise the presser foot lever. Using the needle
as a pivot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot lever,
and then continue sewing.
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser
foot
X The machine starts sewing.
Take your foot off the foot controller.
0
X The machine stops sewing.
• You can use reverse sewing for back tacking
and reinforcing seams by pressing the reverse
sewing lever. Refer to “Reverse sewing lever”
on page 10 for the details.
Raise the needle by turning the
a
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise).
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
Pull the fabric to the left side of the
c
machine, and then pass the threads
through the thread cutter to cut them.
.
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot,
raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the
presser foot to its highest position.
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
19
1 Thread cutter
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Note
1
1
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the
fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you
have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
1 Stabilizer material or paper
● When you are finished with free-arm
sewing, install the flat bed attachment back
in its original position.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto
2
the arm, and then sew from the top.
2
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.
1 Basting
Stitching cylindrical
pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew
cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or hardto-reach areas.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
1
release it.
1
1 Flat bed attachment
X With the flat bed attachment removed,
free-arm sewing is possible.
Sewing with a twin needle
(Option)
We have designed your machine so you can sew with
this needle and two top threads. You can use the same
color or two different colors of thread for making
decorative stitches.
1 Twin needle 2 Extra spool pin
CAUTION
● Use only twin needles that have been
made for this machine (part code:
X57521-021:2.0/75 with a 2 mm width).
Other needles could break and damage
the machine.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike
the presser foot.
● Do not sew with bent needles. The
needle could break and injure you.
■ Attaching the twin needle
Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single
needle (see page 7–8). The flat side of the needle
should face toward the back and the rounded side
should face toward you.
20
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
CAUTION
■ Attaching the extra spool pin
Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the bobbin
winder shaft. Install the second thread spool onto
the extra spool pin.
1 Bobbin winder shaft
2 Extra spool pin
3
3 Thread spool
2
1
■ Twin needle threading
You should thread each needle separately.
Thread the left needle.
1
Follow the same instructions for threading a
single needle (see page 14).
Thread the right needle.
2
Thread the right needle in the same way that
you threaded the left needle using the thread
from the spool on the extra spool pin, but do not
pass the thread through the guide above the
needle before you pass it through the eye of the
right needle.
3
2
1
1 Left needle thread passes through the needle
bar thread guide
2 Right needle thread passes in front of the needle
bar thread guide
3 Needle bar thread guide
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
3
For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Changing the presser foot” on page 8.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Turn on the machine.
4
CAUTION
● Do not turn on the machine while
pressing down the foot controller. The
machine may start unexpectedly and
cause personal injury or damage to the
machine.
Select a stitch.
5
● After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
● The twin needle should only be used
with the Straight Stitch (Center Needle
Position) and the Zigzag Stitch (1.5 mm
(1/16 inch) width). Do not use the twin
needle with any other stitches.
Start sewing.
6
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting
sewing” on page 18.
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
CAUTION
● When changing the sewing direction, be
sure to raise the needle from the fabric,
and then raise the presser foot lever and
turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle
may break or the machine may be
damaged.
21
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Memo
Note
Note
1
2
3
4
5
■ Upper tension is too loose
Thread tension
The tension of the thread will affect the quality of your
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change
fabric or thread.
● We recommend that you do a test sample
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
■ Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too little
tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers
on your fabric.
2
1
3
4
1 Surface of fabric
2 Back of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Lower thread
Loops appear on the back of the fabric.
● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded,
the upper thread may be too loose. In this
case, refer to “Upper threading” on page 14
and rethread the upper thread.
5
2
1
3
4
Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper tension
control dial to a higher number.
1 Surface of fabric
2 Back of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Lower thread
5 Loops appear on back
of fabric
■ Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
2
● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to “Lower threading” on
page 13 and rethread the bobbin thread.
1 Surface of fabric
2 Back of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Lower thread
5 Loops appear on
surface of fabric
Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension
control dial to a lower number.
22
BUILT-IN STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
3
6
8
10
1
2
3 BUILT-IN STITCHES
■ Zigzag stitch
Straight stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams.
2
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
1.6 (1/16)
Stitch Name Pattern
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch,
and then start sewing.
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Left Needle Position)
■ Top stitching and stretch materials
You can use a straight stitch for top stitching and
sewing lightweight fabrics.
1.8 (1/16)
4
5
7
2 (1/16)
2.5 (3/32)
4 (3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
Zigzag stitching
9
Stitch
Length
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Zigzag Stitch 0.7 (1/32) 1.5 (1/16)
Zigzag Stitch 1.5 (1/16) 3 (1/8)
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
We recommend that you sew using the Straight
Stitch at the beginning and end of Zigzag Stitches.
(This acts as a reinforcement stitch.)
■ Zigzag (Satin) Stitch
You can use the Zigzag (Satin) Stitch for making
decorative stitches.
When sewing a Zigzag (Satin) Stitch, use a slightly
looser upper-thread tension to produce more
beautiful stitches.
With the pattern selection dial, the Zigzag (Satin)
Stitch (number 11) can be set to one of three stitch
lengths. The middle position is the setting for the
standard stitch length.
1 For a shorter stitch length, turn the pattern
selecting dial to the left position of Zigzag
(Satin) Stitch (number 11).
2 For a longer stitch length, turn the pattern
selecting dial to the right position of Zigzag
(Satin) Stitch (number 11).
Zigzag Stitch 2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)
Zigzag (Satin)
Stitch
11
0.5 (1/32) 5 (3/16)
23
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Memo
1
2
1
2
1
3
3
4
2
6
1
1
1
1
1
2
3
4
5
Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about
3
Blind hem stitching
Stitch Name Pattern
Stretch Blind
Hem Stitch
● When the size of cylindrical pieces is too
small to slide onto the arm or the length is
too short, the fabric will not feed and
desired results may not be achieved.
Reverse the skirt or pants.
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Bottom side
4 Edge of fabric
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of
2
the hem, and press.
<Seen from the side>
Stitch
Length
[mm (inch)]
14
2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)
1
1 Wrong side of
fabric
2 Right side of
fabric
3 Edge of fabric
4 Desired edge of
hem
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
2
3
4
5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the
fabric, and then baste it.
1 Wrong side of
4
3
1
1
1
<Seen from the side>
Fold back the fabric inside along the
4
basting.
2
5
2
2
2
4
5
1
6
1
1
<Seen from the side>
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the
5
fabric with the wrong side facing up.
fabric
2 Right side of
fabric
3 Edge of fabric
4 Basting stitching
5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
6
6 Desired edge of
hem
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
1 Wrong side of
fabric
2 Edge of fabric
3 Basting
4 5 mm (3/16 inch)
3
5 Desired edge of
hem
6 Right side of
fabric
7 Basting point
<Thick fabric>
7
<Normal fabric>
1 Wrong side of
fabric
2 Right side of
fabric
3 Basting
4 Edge of fabric
5 Desired edge of
hem
6 Basting point
<Thick fabric>
3
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
Remove the flat bed attachment and make
6
free-arm sewing possible.
• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to
“Stitching cylindrical pieces” (Page 20).
24
BUILT-IN STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
1
1
2
3
1
2
12
1
2
13
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto
7
the arm, make sure that the fabric feeds
correctly, and then start sewing.
Shell tuck stitching
Stitch Name Pattern
[mm (inch)]
Stitch
Length
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
1 Arm
After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the
8
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) until the needle has
moved from the right side to the left.
Position the fabric under the presser foot,
9
and then adjust the fabric position until
the needle slightly catches the fold of the
hem when the needle comes to the left
end of the stitch.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Fold of hem
3 Needle drop point
1
0
a
2
3
1 Needle
2 Needle drop point
3 Fold of hem
Lower the presser foot lever.
Sew at a slow speed holding the fabric
with your hands, so that the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
Remove the basting stitching and turn the
b
fabric right side up.
Shell Tuck
Stitch
The Shell Tuck Stitch can be used to sew a picot (lacelike) edge on lightweight fabric.
Adjust the thread tension so that it is
1
tighter than normal.
Place the fabric under the presser foot so
2
that it will be sewn along the bias, with
2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)
the straight stitches sewn on the seamline
and the zigzag stitches sewn slightly over
the folded edge.
Sew at a slow speed.
3
1 Straight stitches
2 Zigzag stitches
Elastic stitching
Stitch Name Pattern
Elastic Stitch 1 (1/16) 5 (3/16)
You can use the Elastic Stitch for mending, sewing
elastic or joining fabric. Each is explained below.
Stitch
Length
[mm (inch)]
■ Mending
Place the reinforcement fabric under the
1
area you want to mend.
• Use the basting pins to hold the
reinforcement fabric.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric
25
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16
15
Following the line of the tear, sew using
2
the Elastic Stitch as shown.
Double action stitching
■ Sewing elastic
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of
1
the fabric.
As you sew, stretch the elastic in front of
2
and behind the presser foot.
■ Joining fabric
You can use the Elastic Stitch to join two pieces of
fabric together and it is very effective when sewing
knitted fabrics. If you are using nylon thread, the
stitch will not be visible.
Put the edge of the two pieces of fabric
1
together and center them under the
presser foot.
Sew them together using the Elastic Stitch.
2
Make sure you keep the two fabric edges
close together.
• Use the basting pins to hold the two fabric
edges close together.
Stitch Name Pattern
Double Action
Stitch
Bridging Stitch 1.2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)
These stitches are used for joining two pieces of fabric,
such as when making patchwork.
Example: Patchwork with Double Action Stitch
17
Stitch
Length
[mm (inch)]
1.2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
1
2
3
1 Desired seamline
2 Straight Stitch
3 Double Action Stitch
Decorative stitching
Stitch Name Pattern
Stitch
Length
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
3
Scallop Stitch 0.5 (1/32) 5 (3/16)
26
SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
Memo
1
1
2
4 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS
CAUTION
● Always turn off the machine before
replacing the presser foot. Otherwise,
injuries may occur if the foot controller
is accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.
Making a buttonhole
Stitch
Pattern
● We recommend that you practice making a
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before
you try it on an actual garment.
● When making buttonholes on soft fabrics,
place a stabilizer material on the underside
of the fabric.
Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position and
1
length of the buttonhole on the fabric.
Length
[mm
(inch)]
0.5 (1/32) 5 (3/16)
1
Stitch
Width
[mm
(inch)]
2
Foot
Button-
hole
Foot “A”
CAUTION
● If the presser foot is not installed with
the correct orientation, the needle may
strike the presser foot, which may bend
or break the needle and cause injury.
(See page 8 for the correct presser foot
orientation.)
You need to sew the front bar tack first.
3
Line the bar tack mark under the center of
the presser foot and match it up to the
two lines on the presser foot.
1 Front of chalk mark
2 Red lines
■ Making a Buttonhole
Step Sewn section Pattern
Step 1
(Front bar tack)
1. Set the pattern selection dial to “a”.
2. Lower the presser foot and sew 5 to 6 stitches.
3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left
side of the stitches and then raise the needle from
the material.
Step 2
(Left side)
1 Marks on fabric
2 Buttonhole sewing
Attach the buttonhole foot and push the
2
frame back until it stops with the plastic
insert at the front of the frame.
27
1. Turn the pattern selection dial to “b”.
2. Sew the length of the tailor’s chalk line.
3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left
side of the stitch and then raise the needle.
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