Brother VX3250F, VX1445, SM1704, SM1400, JX3135F User Manual
...
Operation Manual
Product Code: 888-X64/X74/X77
Sewing Machine
Be sure to read this document before using the machine.
We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.
ENGLISH
ESPAÑOL
Lea este documento antes de utilizar la máquina.
Recomendamos que tenga este documento a mano por si necesita
consultarlo más adelante.
Manual de instrucciones
Product Code (Código de producto): 888-X64/X74/X77
Máquina de coser
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IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions
before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1 Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet immediately after
using, when cleaning, when making
any user servicing adjustments
mentioned in this manual, or if you are
leaving the machine unattended.
WARNING
- To reduce the risk of burns, fire,
electric shock, or injury to persons.
2 Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet when making any
adjustments mentioned in the
instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the
machine to the symbol “O” position
to turn it off, then grasp the plug and
pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do
not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the
electrical outlet. Do not use an
extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the
power is cut.
3 Electrical Hazards:
• This machine should be connected to
an AC power source within the range
indicated on the rating label. Do not
connect it to a DC power source or
inverter. If you are not sure what kind
of power source you have, contact a
qualified electrician.
• This machine is approved for use in
the country of purchase only.
4 Never operate this machine if it has
a damaged cord or plug, if it is not
working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or water is spilled
on the unit. Return the machine to the
nearest authorized Brother dealer or
service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use
if you notice anything unusual, such
as an odor, heat, discoloration or
deformation, stop using the machine
and immediately unplug the power
cord.
• When transporting the machine, be
sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting
the machine by any other part may
damage the machine or result in the
machine falling, which could cause
injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful
not to make any sudden or careless
movements, otherwise you may
injure your back or knees.
5 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any
air openings blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the machine
and foot control free from the build
up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot
controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the
machine directly into the electrical
outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into
any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray)
products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
1
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• Do not use the machine near a heat
source, such as a stove or iron;
otherwise, the machine, power cord
or garment being sewn may ignite,
resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this machine on an
unstable surface, such as an unsteady
or slanted table, otherwise the
machine may fall, resulting in
injuries.
6 Special care is required when
sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the
needle. Do not use bent or damaged
needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving
parts. Special care is required around
the machine needle.
• Do not turn on the machine while
pressing down the foot controller.
The machine may start unexpectedly
and cause personal injury or damage
to the machine.
• Switch the machine to the symbol
“O” position to turn it off when
making any adjustments in the needle
area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect
needle plate, as it could cause the
needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when
sewing, and follow careful instruction
when freehand stitching so that you
do not deflect the needle and cause it
to break.
7 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary
when the machine is used by or near
children.
• The plastic bag that this machine was
supplied in should be kept out of the
reach of children or disposed of.
Never allow children to play with the
bag due to the danger of suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
8 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid
direct sunlight and high humidity
locations. Do not use or store the
machine near a space heater, iron,
halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents
to clean the case. Benzene, thinner,
and scouring powders can damage
the case and machine, and should
never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual
when replacing or installing any
assemblies, the presser feet, needle,
or other parts to assure correct
installation.
9 For repair or adjustment:
• If the light unit (light-emitting diode)
is damaged, it must be replaced by
authorized Brother Service Center.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or
adjustment is required, first follow the
troubleshooting table in the back of
the operation manual to inspect and
adjust the machine yourself. If the
problem persists, please consult your
local authorized Brother Service
Center.
Use this machine only for its intended
use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the
manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and
specifications of this product are
subject to change without notice.
For additional product information,
visit our web site at www.brother.com
2
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SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended
for household use.
FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES
EXCEPT EUROPEAN
COUNTRIES
This appliance is not intended
for use by persons (including
children) with reduced physical,
sensory or mental capabilities,
or lack of experience and
knowledge, unless they have
been given supervision or
instruction concerning use of
the appliance by a person
responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised
to ensure that they do not play
with the appliance.
FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN
COUNTRIES
This appliance can be used by
children aged from 8 years and
above and persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental
capabilities or lack of
experience and knowledge if
they have been given
supervision or instruction
concerning use of the appliance
in a safe way and understand
the hazards involved. Children
shall not play with the
appliance. Cleaning and user
maintenance shall not be made
by children without supervision.
FOR USERS IN THE UK,
EIRE, MALTA AND
CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug
fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to
BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark,
rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never
use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not
suitable for the plug supplied with this
equipment, you should contact your
authorized Brother Service Center to
obtain the correct lead.
3
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CONTENTS
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS .......... 1
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING
MACHINE ..................................5
ACCESSORIES ................................................ 5
Optional accessories .......................................... 5
THE MAIN PARTS .......................................... 6
Flat bed attachment ............................................ 6
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................ 7
Connecting plugs ................................................ 7
Main power and sewing light switch .................. 8
Foot controller .................................................... 8
Checking the needle ........................................... 8
Replacing the needle .......................................... 8
Changing the presser foot ................................. 10
THE CONTROLS .......................................... 11
Pattern selection dial ........................................ 11
Patterns and stitch names ................................. 11
Reverse sewing lever ........................................ 12
THREADING THE MACHINE ....................... 13
Winding the bobbin .........................................13
Lower threading ............................................... 15
Lower threading (for models equipped with a
quick-set bobbin) .............................................. 16
Upper threading ............................................... 17
Using the needle threader (for models equipped
with a needle threader) ..................................... 19
Drawing up the lower thread ............................ 21
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE
COMBINATIONS ......................................... 22
2. SEWING BASICS ....................... 23
Please read before sewing ................................ 23
Starting sewing ................................................. 23
Trial sewing ...................................................... 24
Changing the sewing direction ......................... 24
Sewing thick fabrics .......................................... 24
Sewing thin fabrics ........................................... 25
Sewing stretch fabrics ....................................... 25
Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................... 25
Sewing with a twin needle (Option) .................. 25
Thread tension .................................................. 27
3. BUILT-IN STITCHES ................. 29
Straight stitching ................................................29
Zigzag stitching .................................................29
Blind hem stitching ...........................................30
Overedge stitching ............................................31
Elastic stitching .................................................31
Double action stitching .....................................32
4. SEWING BUTTONHOLES ........ 33
Making a buttonhole .........................................33
Adjusting buttonholes .......................................34
5. USING ATTACHMENTS AND
APPLICATIONS ....................... 35
Zipper insertion .................................................35
Gathering ..........................................................36
Appliqués ..........................................................36
USING OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ............... 37
Sewing buttons ..................................................37
Darning .............................................................38
Using the blind stitch foot .................................39
6. APPENDIX ................................ 40
MAINTENANCE ............................................ 40
Restrictions on oiling .........................................40
Precautions on storing the machine ...................40
Cleaning ...........................................................40
TROUBLESHOOTING .................................. 42
INDEX .......................................................... 45
4
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
ACCESSORIES
We have designed these accessories to help you easily perform most sewing tasks.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
I
A
A
J
J
6. 7.
I
No. Part Name
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
1
2 Buttonhole foot “A” X59369-321
3 Zipper foot “I” XE9369-001
Bobbin
4
(One is on machine)
Part Code
Americas Others
XC4901-121
SA156
SFB: XA5539-151
No. Part Name
Needle set
5
(90/14 needle)
6 Screwdriver XF3557-001
7 Foot controller See page 6
Part Code
Americas Others
3-piece set: XE5328-001
2-piece set: XE7064-001
Note
● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you
purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
M
M
6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
No. Part Name
1 Extra spool pin XG3488-001
Twin needle
2
(2.0/75 needle)
3 Darning Plate XC6063-021
4 Button sewing foot “M” XE2137-001
5 Walking Foot SA107
Americas
Part Code
X57521-021
F034N: XC2165-002
Others
No. Part Name
6 Quilting Foot SA129
7 1/4-inch Quilting Foot SA125
8 Narrow Hemmer Foot SA127
9 Blind Stitch Foot SA134
10 Quilting guide SA132
Americas
Part Code
Others
F005N: XC1948-052
F001N: XC1944-052
F003N: XC1945-052
F018N: XC1976-052
F016N: XC2215-052
Note
● The quilting guide can be inserted into the holes at the back of the walking foot or the black plastic hole
at the top of sewing ankle.
5
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1
2
3
4
7
8
9
0
A
6
C
B
H
G
K
D
5
I
E
F
J
THE MAIN PARTS
1
1 Bobbin winder (Page 13)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the
lower thread.
2 Spool pin (Page 13, 17)
This holds the spool of thread.
3 Thread guide (Page 13, 17)
This is used when winding the thread onto the
bobbin and then threading the machine.
4 Thread take-up lever (Page 18)
5 Hole for extra spool pin (Page 26)
This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with
the twin needle.
6 Upper tension-control dial (Page 27)
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
7 Thread cutter (Page 24)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut
them.
8 Needle threader (Page 19)
(This is only available on certain models.)
9 Quick-set bobbin (Page 16, 21)
(This is only available on certain models.)
0 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
(Page 6)
A Presser foot (Page 10)
B Reverse sewing lever (Page 12)
Push this lever to stitch in the reverse direction.
C Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw (Page 34)
D Pattern selection dial (Page 11)
Rotate the dial in either direction to choose the
stitch you want.
E Handwheel
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
F Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the
machine is being used.
G Main power and sewing light switch (Page 8)
You can turn the main power and sewing light
switch on and off.
H Foot controller jack / socket (Page 7)
Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the
machine to the power supply.
I Presser foot lever (Page 17)
Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
J Handle
Carry the machine by its handle when transporting.
K Foot controller (Page 8)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
start and stop sewing.
Foot Controller:
Model KD-1902 for 110-120V area
KD-1902 for 110-127V area (Brazil only)
Model KD-2902 for 220-240V area
The foot controller part code differs depending on the
country or region. Contact your Brother dealer or the
nearest authorized Brother Service Center.
Flat bed attachment
The accessories can be stored in a compartment inside
the flat bed attachment.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
1
open it.
1 Flat bed attachment
2 Storage compartment
2
1
6
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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Note
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
●
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
●
Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or
bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized Brother Service Center for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise
a fire may result.
Connecting plugs
Connect the foot controller plug to the
1
machine.
Connect the power supply plug to a wall
2
outlet.
7
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the main
power and unplug the power supply cord.
When restarting the sewing machine, follow
the necessary procedure to correctly operate
the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to
fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the
plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse
the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.
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Main power and sewing
light switch
This switch turns the main power and sewing light on or off
1
2
1 Turn on (toward the ‘I’ mark)
2 Turn off (toward the ‘O’ mark)
CAUTION
●
Do not turn on the machine while pressing
down the foot controller. The machine
may start unexpectedly and cause
personal injury or damage to the machine.
Foot controller
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder,
the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your
foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.
1
2
1 Slower
2 Faster
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot
controller when the machine is not in use.
CAUTION
● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to
build up on the foot controller. Doing so
could cause a fire or an electric shock.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot Controller: Model KD-1902
This foot controller can be used on the
machine with product code 888-X64/X74/
X77.
The product code is mentioned on the
machine rating plate.
Checking the needle
The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp
for smooth sewing.
.
■ Checking the needle correctly
Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface.
Check the needle from the top and the sides.
Dispose of any bent needles safely.
2
1 Parallel space
2 Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)
Replacing the needle
CAUTION
● Always turn off the machine before you
change the needle. Otherwise, injuries
may occur if the foot controller is
accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.
● Only use sewing machine needles for
home use. Other needles may bend or
break and cause injury.
● Never sew with a bent needle. A bent
needle will easily break and cause injury.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
Lower the presser foot lever.
3
1 Presser foot lever
1
1
1
8
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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CAUTION
CAUTION
1
2
3
1
● Before replacing the needle, place fabric
or paper under the presser foot to
prevent the needle from falling into the
hole in the needle plate.
Hold the needle with your left hand, and
4
then use a screwdriver to turn the needle
clamp screw counterclockwise to remove
the needle.
1 Use a screwdriver
• Do not use excessive force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
With the flat side of the needle toward the
5
back of the machine, insert the needle
until it touches the needle stopper. Next,
tighten the needle clamp using a
screwdriver.
● Make sure you insert the needle until it
touches the stopper, and securely tighten
the needle clamp screw with a
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
9
1 Use a screwdriver
2 Needle stopper
3 Needle
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Note
CAUTION
1
2
1
2
Put a different presser foot on the needle
4
Changing the presser foot
CAUTION
●
Always turn off the machine before you
change the presser foot. If you leave the
power on and step on the controller, the
machine will start and you may be injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot for
the stitch pattern you have chosen. If
you use the wrong presser foot, the
needle may strike the presser foot and
bend or break, and may cause injury.
● Only use presser feet that have been
designed to be used with this machine.
Using any other presser foot may cause
accident or injury.
You will have to change the presser foot depending on
what you want to sew and how.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the presser foot lever.
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
plate so that the bar on the presser foot is
in line with the slot on the shank.
Lower the presser foot lever and fix the
5
presser foot onto the shank. If the presser
foot is in the correct place, the bar should
snap in.
1 Shank
2 Bar
■ Presser foot installation orientation
1
3
Remove the presser
foot by pulling it
vertically downward.
1 Presser foot holder
2 Presser foot
Press the black
|
button at the back of
|
the presser foot
|
holder to release the
|
presser foot.
|
|
|
|
or
1
|
|
2
|
3
|
|
|
1 Black button
|
2 Presser foot holder
|
3 Presser foot
● Depending on the type of presser foot
holder, the method of releasing the presser
foot will vary.
● If the presser foot is not installed with
the correct orientation, the needle may
strike the presser foot, which may bend
or break the needle and cause injury.
10
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1
2
3
4
6
7
9
10
13
141516
17
1
2
3
5
7
8
9
THE CONTROLS
Pattern selection dial
CAUTION
When you use the pattern selection dial
●
to choose a pattern, raise the needle by
turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up. If the needle is in
the down position when you turn the
pattern selection dial, the needle, presser
foot or fabric may be damaged.
To choose a stitch, simply turn the pattern selection dial
in either direction.
1 Pattern selection dial
2 Chosen pattern number
Patterns and stitch names
Pattern
Stitch Name
Preset Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
0.5 (1/32)
4-STEP AUTOMATIC
BUTTONHOLE
5 (3/16)
0.7 (1/32)
ZIGZAG STITCH 1.8 (1/8)
1.5 (1/16)
ZIGZAG STITCH 3.3 (3/16)
4
2 (1/16)
ZIGZAG STITCH 5 (3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
ZIGZAG (SATIN)
STITCH
6
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
5 (3/16)
1.6 (1/16)
Reference
Page
33
29, 36, 37,
39
29, 36, 37,
39
29, 36, 37,
39
29, 36
29, 38
—
1
8
*1 : Stitch nos. 15-17 are only available on certain
models.
2
12
11
5
*1
*1
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
*1
Position)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
1.8 (1/8)
29, 38
—
2 (1/16)
29, 38
—
3 (1/8)
29, 35, 36,
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
11
—
38, 39
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10
11
13
14
16
17
Pattern
Stitch Name
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Left Needle Position)
12
BLIND HEM STITCH 5 (3/16)
ELASTIC STITCH 5 (3/16)
STRETCH BLIND
HEM STITCH
15
OVEREDGE STITCH 5 (3/16)
Preset Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
4 (3/16)
—
2.5 (3/32)
—
2 (1/16)
1 (1/16)
2 (1/16)
5 (3/16)
2 (1/16)
Reference
Page
29, 38
29, 36, 38
30, 39
31
30, 39
31
Reverse sewing lever
You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and
reinforcing seams.
To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in as
far as possible and hold it in that position while you
lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward, release
the reverse sewing lever. The machine will then sew
forward.
The length of reverse stitches is fixed at 2 mm (1/16
inch).
1
1 Reverse sewing lever
1
1.2 (1/16)
DOUBLE ACTION
STITCH
BRIDGING STITCH 5 (3/16)
5 (3/16)
1.2 (1/16)
32
32
12
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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CAUTION
3
2
1
1 Pull the thread
in completely.
THREADING THE MACHINE
Winding the bobbin
● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models,
the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). Using other bobbins may
cause damage to the machine. SA156 is Class 15 type bobbin.
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model Other models
1 Pre-tension disk 2 Bobbin winder shaft 3 Bobbin
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of
1
thread on this pin.
While holding the thread from the spool
2
with your right hand, pass the thread
toward you, in the groove on the thread
guide. Then, pass the thread around the
pre-tension disk and pull the thread in
completely.
13
CAUTION
● If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread
may tangle on the spool pin.
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CAUTION
CAUTION
Note
CAUTION
3
1
2
1
2
Pass the end of the thread through the hole
3
on the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.
Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder
4
shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to
the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by
hand, until the projection slides into the
notch of the bobbin.
• Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3-4 inches)
of thread from the hole on the bobbin.
1 Projection
2 Notch
3 7-10 cm (3 – 4 inches)
● Pull the thread taut and hold the end of
the thread straight up. If the thread is too
short, not pulled taut or held at an angle,
injuries may occur when the thread is
wound around the bobbin.
Turn on the machine.
5
CAUTION
●
Do not turn on the machine while pressing
down the foot controller. The machine
may start unexpectedly and cause
personal injury or damage to the machine.
While holding the end of the thread,
6
gently press the foot controller to wind
the thread around the bobbin a few times.
Then stop the machine.
Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.
7
• Leave 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thread from the hole
on the bobbin.
1
1 1 cm (1/2 inch)
●
Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the excess thread
completely before winding the bobbin, when
the thread runs low it may tangle around the
bobbin and cause the needle to break.
Press the foot controller to start.
8
When the bobbin seems full and begins
9
spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
controller.
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder
0
shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.
●
When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the thread
around the bobbin, the machine will make a
clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
● Not winding the bobbin properly may
cause the thread tension to loosen, and
may break the needle.
1
1 Wound evenly
2 Wound poorly
14
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
1
1
1
2
Hold the end of the thread, push the
5
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
• For more details on using the quick-set
bobbin, see page 16.
Make sure you turn off the machine
●
bobbin down with your finger, and then
pass the thread through the slit, as shown.
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
while threading. If you accidentally step
on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.
Prepare the bobbin wound properly
1
before threading the lower thread.
• See page 13 for the details about bobbin
winding.
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and raise the presser
foot lever.
Remove the bobbin cover by sliding it and
3
lift toward you.
1 Tension-adjusting spring
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the
6
projection into the bobbin race retainer
groove and push closed.
1 Bobbin cover
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out
4
in the direction shown by the arrow.
CAUTION
●
Make sure you set the bobbin so the
thread unrolls in the right direction. If
the thread unrolls in the wrong direction,
it may cause the thread tension to be
incorrect or break the needle.
15
1 Groove
2 Projection
• Make sure that the end of the thread comes
out from the cover toward the rear of the
machine (as shown in the illustration).
• Draw up the lower thread before starting
sewing. Refer to “Drawing up the lower
thread” on page 21 after threading the upper
thread.
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Note
1
2
2
3
1
1
1
2
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the
Lower threading (for
models equipped with a
3
projection into the race retainer groove
and push closed.
quick-set bobbin)
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
This feature is only available on certain models.
Follow steps 1 to 4 from “Lower
1
threading” on page 15.
While lightly holding down the bobbin
2
with your right hand as shown, guide the
thread through the slit (1 and 2). Then,
pull the thread toward you to cut it with
the cutter (3).
• At this time, check that the bobbin easily
rotates counterclockwise.
1 Slit
2 Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)
1 Groove
2 Projection
• Start sewing after threading the lower and
upper thread. When sewing gathers or darts,
you can draw up the lower thread by hand so
that some thread will be left over. Refer to the
steps in “Drawing up the lower thread”
(page 21).
1
● If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
1 Tension-adjusting spring
16
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
4
3
2
2
1
5
1
1
Upper threading
1 Spool pin
2 Thread guide (back)
3 Thread guide (front)
● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is
4 Thread take-up lever
5 Mark on the handwheel
not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
● Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
● Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct
combination of needles and threads, refer to “FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE
COMBINATIONS” on page 22.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
1 Presser foot lever
Raise the needle by turning the
3
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine can not be threaded.
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of
4
thread on this pin.
CAUTION
● If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread
may tangle on the spool pin and cause
the needle to break.
1 Mark on the wheel
17
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Memo
Note
1
1
2
3
4
5
1
1
1
While holding the thread from the spool
5
with your right hand, pass the thread
toward you, in the groove on the thread
guide.
• Make sure that the spring in the groove
catches the thread.
1 Spring
Feed the upper thread as shown in the
6
following illustration.
Make sure you guide the thread through
7
the thread take-up lever from right to left
as shown in the following illustration.
Put the thread behind the guide above the
8
needle.
• The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the
thread in your left hand, then feeding the
thread with your right hand.
1
1 Needle bar thread guide
Thread the needle from front to back
9
leaving a thread tail of about 5 cm
(2 inches).
• If your sewing machine is equipped with a
needle threader, use the needle threader to
thread the needle (see next section).
1
1 Thread take-up lever
● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
upper thread can not be wrapped around
the thread take-up lever. Make sure you
raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up.
1 5 cm (2 inches)
● Make sure you raise the presser foot lever
and the thread take-up lever before you feed
the upper thread.
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
18
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
1
2
1
2
3
While lowering the needle threader lever,
Using the needle threader
4
hook the thread onto the guide.
(for models equipped with
a needle threader)
This feature is only available on certain models.
The needle threader can be used with a
●
75/11 through 100/16 home sewing
machine needle. However, the needle
threader cannot be used with a 65/9
home sewing machine needle. When
using special thread such as transparent
nylon thread or metallic thread, the
needle threader cannot be used.
● Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or
thicker cannot be used with the needle
threader.
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used,
refer to “Upper threading” on page 17.
Follow steps 1 to 8 from “Upper
1
threading” on page 17 before using the
needle threader.
Lower the presser foot lever.
2
Make sure that the mark on the wheel
3
points up as shown in the following
illustration.
1
1 Mark on the wheel
1 Needle holder
2 Needle threader lever
1 Needle holder
2 Needle threader lever
3 Guide
Pull down the needle threader lever as
5
much as possible, and then turn the lever
toward the back of the machine (away
from you). Make sure that the hook passes
through the eye of the needle and grabs
the thread.
19
1 21
1 Hook
2 Thread
• Hold the thread in front of the needle to
make sure that the hook grabs it.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Note
1
1
While lightly holding the thread, turn the
6
needle threader lever toward the front of
the machine (toward you). The hook will
pull the thread through the needle.
Raise the needle threader lever.
7
Pull the loop of the thread passed through
8
the eye of the needle toward the rear of
the machine.
Pass the end of the thread through the
0
presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm
(2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the
machine.
1 5 cm (2 inches)
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
1
1 Loop of thread
CAUTION
● Be careful not to pull on the thread with
force or it may bend the needle.
● If the thread does not pass through the
eye of the needle, start from step
again.
Raise the presser foot lever.
9
3
20
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
1
1
2
2
1
2
Drawing up the lower
thread
While lightly holding the end of the upper
1
thread, slowly turn the handwheel toward
you (counterclockwise) by hand to lower
and then raise the needle.
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the
2
lower thread.
1 Upper thread
2 Lower thread
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both
3
threads and put them toward the back of
the machine under the presser foot.
■ For models equipped with a quick-set
bobbin
You can begin sewing immediately without drawing
up the bobbin thread.
When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the
lower thread by hand so that some thread will be
left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put
the bobbin back in.
Remove the bobbin cover, and then
1
reinstall the bobbin.
Pass the thread along the slit in the
2
direction of the arrow, and leave it there
without cutting it.
• The bobbin cover should still be removed.
Draw up the lower thread as described in
3
the previous steps
Replace the bobbin cover.
4
1 to 3.
21
1 Upper thread
2 Lower thread
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Note
Memo
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS
Fabric Type/Application
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick fabrics
Stretch fabrics
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
Broadcloth Cotton thread
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Lawn Cotton thread
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Denim Cotton thread
Corduroy Synthetic thread
Tweed Silk thread
Jersey
Tricot
Type Size
Thread for knits 50–60
Cotton thread
Silk thread 50
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thread
Size of Needle
60–90
60–90
30 100/16
50
50–60
50–90
30 100/16
50–60 75/11–90/14
75/11–90/14
65/9–75/11
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(gold colored)
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
1
● Never use a thread weighted #20 or lower. It may cause machine malfunction.
● The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the
needle.
■ Ball point needle
Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
■ Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
CAUTION
●
Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table.
Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle
(65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam
to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.
22
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
1
1
2 SEWING BASICS
Please read before sewing
● To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep
your hands away from moving parts.
● Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and
you may be injured.
● Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured.
● Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing. The needle
may break and you may be injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may hit the
presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured.
● When you turn the handwheel by hand, always turn it toward you (counterclockwise).
Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric, and
you may be injured.
● Do not start sewing without placing the fabric under the presser foot, otherwise the presser
foot may be damaged.
Raise the presser foot lever.
Starting sewing
Turn on the machine.
1
5
2
3
4
23
CAUTION
●
Do not turn on the machine while pressing
down the foot controller. The machine
may start unexpectedly and cause
personal injury or damage to the machine.
Raise the needle by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
Turn the pattern selection dial to select a
stitch (see page 11).
Change the presser foot (see page 10).
1 Presser foot lever
Place the fabric under the presser foot,
6
pass the thread under the presser foot,
and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of
thread toward the rear of the machine.
1 5 cm (2 inches)
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
CAUTION
1
1
While holding the end of the thread and
7
the fabric with your left hand, turn the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) with your right hand
to lower the needle to the starting point of
the stitching.
Trial sewing
A trial piece of fabric should be sewn. Use a piece of
fabric and thread that are the same as those used for
your project, and check the thread tension and stitch
length and width.
Changing the sewing
direction
Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the
point where you want to change the sewing direction,
Lower the presser foot lever.
8
1 Presser foot lever
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
9
and then raise the presser foot lever. Using the needle
as a pivot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot lever,
and then continue sewing.
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser
foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot,
The machine starts sewing.
Take your foot off the foot controller.
0
The machine stops sewing.
• You can use reverse sewing for back tacking
and reinforcing seams by pressing the reverse
sewing lever. Refer to “Reverse sewing lever”
on page 12 for the details.
Raise the needle by turning the
a
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise).
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
Pull the fabric to the left side of the
c
machine, and then pass the threads
through the thread cutter to cut them.
.
raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the
presser foot to its highest position.
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
2
1 Thread cutter
24
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
Note
1
1
1
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the
fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you
have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
1 Stabilizer material or paper
● When you are finished with free-arm
sewing, install the flat bed attachment back
in its original position.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto
2
the arm, and then sew from the top.
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.
1 Basting
Stitching cylindrical
pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew
cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or hardto-reach areas.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
1
release it.
1 Flat bed attachment
With the flat bed attachment removed,
free-arm sewing is possible.
Sewing with a twin needle
(Option)
We have designed your machine so you can sew with
this needle and two top threads. You can use the same
color or two different colors of thread for making
decorative stitches.
Twin needle Extra spool pin
CAUTION
● Use only twin needles that have been
made for this machine (part code:
X57521-021:2.0/75 with a 2 mm width).
Other needles could break and damage
the machine.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike
the presser foot.
● Do not sew with bent needles. The
needle could break and injure you.
■ Attaching the twin needle
Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single
needle (see page 8–9). The flat side of the needle
should face toward the back and the rounded side
should face toward you.
25
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Note
CAUTION
CAUTION
■ Attaching the extra spool pin
Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of the
machine. Put the second spool of thread onto the
extra spool pin.
1 First spool
2 Second spool
■ Twin needle threading
You should thread each needle separately.
Models equipped with a needle threader
● You cannot use the needle threader to
thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the
twin needle by hand, from front to back.
Using the needle threader may damage the
machine.
Use the thread from the first spool to
1
thread the machine to the needle bar
thread guide.
The path for threading the machine to the
needle bar thread guide is the same as for
normally threading the machine (for a single
needle). See page 18 for more details.
Thread the left needle from front to back.
2
Use the thread from the second spool to
3
thread the machine to the thread take-up
lever.
The path for threading the machine to the thread
take-up lever is the same as for normally
threading the machine (for a single needle). See
page 18 for more details.
Thread the right needle from front to
4
back.
Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar
thread guide.
3
2
1
1 Left needle thread passes through the needle
bar thread guide.
2 Right needle thread passes in front of the needle
bar thread guide.
3 Needle bar thread guide
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
5
For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Changing the presser foot” on page 10.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Turn on the machine.
6
● Do not turn on the machine while
pressing down the foot controller. The
machine may start unexpectedly and
cause personal injury or damage to the
machine.
2
26
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—————
CAUTION
Memo
Note
1
2
3
4
5
Select a stitch.
7
After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the
●
Thread tension
The tension of the thread will affect the quality of your
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change
fabric or thread.
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
● We recommend that you do a test sample
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
needle may bend or break.
● The twin needle should only be used
with the Straight Stitch (Center Needle
Position) and the Zigzag Stitch (1.5 mm
(1/16 inch) width). Do not use the twin
needle with any other stitches.
Start sewing.
8
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting
sewing” on page 23.
Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
■ Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too little
tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers
on your fabric.
2
1
1 Surface of fabric
2 Back of fabric
3
4
3 Upper thread
4 Lower thread
■ Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
CAUTION
● When changing the sewing direction, be
sure to raise the needle from the fabric,
and then raise the presser foot lever and
turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle
may break or the machine may be
damaged.
27
● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to “Lower threading” on
page 15 and rethread the bobbin thread.
1 Surface of fabric
2 Back of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Lower thread
5 Loops appear on
surface of fabric
Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension
control dial to a lower number.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Note
■ Upper tension is too loose
Loops appear on the back of the fabric.
● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded,
the upper thread may be too loose. In this
case, refer to “Upper threading” on page 17
and rethread the upper thread.
5
2
1
1 Surface of fabric
3
4
Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper tension
control dial to a higher number.
2 Back of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Lower thread
5 Loops appear on back
of fabric
2
28
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