BROTHER F410 User Manual

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Operation Manual
Sewing Machine
Product Code: 888-F10/H32
Be sure to read this document before using the machine. We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing this machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”, and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electrical shock
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, making any user
servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electrical shock, or injury to
persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction
manual.
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if there is a power failure.
3Electrical Hazards:
• This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or converter. If you are not sure what kind of power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.
• This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.
4Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, has been dropped or
damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized Brother dealer for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, which may cause a personal injury.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
5Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert foreign objects in any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
6Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when free motion stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
7This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
8For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the Operation Manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
9For repair or adjustment:
• If the light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by an authorized Brother dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the Operation Manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in the manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our website at www.brother.com
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT EUROPEAN COUNTRIES
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA
AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark,
rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your
authorized Brother dealer to obtain the correct lead.
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ABOUT THIS MANUAL
ABOUT THIS MANUAL
This manual was written for several machine models. The illustrations of the machine in this manual may differ from the actual design. In addition, since the specifications differ depending on the model, some functions described in this manual may apply to only some models.
WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE
B Basic operations
After purchasing your machine, be sure to read this section first. This section provides details on the initial setup procedures as well as descriptions of this machine’s more useful functions.
Chapter 1 GETTING READY
To learn the operation of the principal parts and the screens
Chapter 2 STARTING TO SEW
To learn how to prepare for sewing and basic sewing operations
Page B-2
Page B-31
S Sewing
This section describes procedures for using the various utility stitches as well as other functions. It provides details on basic machine sewing in addition to the more expressive features of the machine, such as sewing tubular pieces and buttonholes.
Chapter 1 SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES
Tips for sewing attractive finishes and various fabrics
Chapter 2 UTILITY STITCHES
Sew pre-programmed frequently used stitches
Page S-2
Page S-6
D Decorative sewing
This section provides instructions on sewing character stitches and decorative stitches as well as on adjusting and editing them.
Chapter 1 CHARACTER / DECORATIVE STITCHES
The variety of stitches widen your creativity
Page D-2
A Appendix
This section provides important information for operating this machine.
Chapter 1 MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described.
Page A-2
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CONTENTS
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION.................................................. i
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ................. i
ABOUT THIS MANUAL ...................................... iv
WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE.... iv
B Basic operations
Chapter 1 GETTING READY 2
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...... 2
Machine ................................................................................ 2
Needle and presser foot section .................................................. 4
Operation buttons .................................................................. 4
Operation panel and operation keys ...................................... 5
Using the flat bed attachment ................................................ 6
Included accessories .............................................................. 7
Optional accessories .............................................................. 8
Turning the Machine On/Off................................ 9
Turning on the machine....................................................... 10
Turning off the machine ....................................................... 10
LCD .................................................................... 11
Viewing the LCD ................................................................. 11
Adjusting input sensitivity for operation keys ....................... 12
Winding/Installing the Bobbin............................ 13
Winding the bobbin ............................................................. 13
Installing the bobbin ............................................................ 16
Upper Threading ................................................ 19
Threading the upper thread.................................................. 19
Threading the needle ........................................................... 21
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle
threader) .............................................................................. 22
Pulling up the bobbin thread................................................ 23
Using the twin needle .......................................................... 23
Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations ................. 26
Replacing the Needle ......................................... 27
Checking the needle ............................................................ 27
Replacing the needle ........................................................... 27
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................. 29
Replacing the presser foot.................................................... 29
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder ................... 30
Chapter 2 STARTING TO SEW 31
Sewing................................................................ 31
Stitch selection methods ...................................................... 31
Selecting a stitch pattern ...................................................... 32
Sewing a stitch..................................................................... 33
Sewing reinforcement stitches.............................................. 35
Automatic reinforcement stitching ....................................... 35
Reinforcement priority ......................................................... 37
Setting the Stitch ................................................ 38
Setting the stitch width ......................................................... 38
Setting the stitch length ........................................................ 38
Setting the thread tension ..................................................... 39
Useful Functions................................................. 40
Automatically cutting the thread (Only on models with
automatic thread cutting key)............................................... 40
Adjusting the presser foot pressure ....................................... 41
Stitch Setting Chart ............................................ 42
S Sewing
Chapter 1 SEWING ATTRACTIVE
FINISHES 2
Sewing Tips .......................................................... 2
Trial sewing............................................................................ 2
Changing the sewing direction
Sewing curves ........................................................................ 2
Sewing cylindrical pieces ....................................................... 2
Sewing an even seam allowance ............................................ 3
Sewing Various Fabrics ........................................ 4
Sewing thick fabrics ............................................................... 4
Sewing thin fabrics................................................................. 4
Sewing stretch fabrics............................................................. 5
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics .............................................. 5
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener tape....................................... 5
Chapter 2 UTILITY STITCHES 6
Basic Stitching...................................................... 6
Basting ................................................................................... 6
Basic stitching ........................................................................ 6
Blind Hem Stitching ............................................. 8
Overcasting Stitches .......................................... 11
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ........ 11
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”.................. 12
Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter
(sold separately with some models) ...................................... 12
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing .................. 14
Buttonhole sewing................................................................ 14
Button sewing ...................................................................... 17
Zipper Insertion ................................................. 20
Inserting a centered zipper ................................................... 20
Inserting a side zipper .......................................................... 21
Zipper/piping Insertion ...................................... 24
Inserting a centered zipper ................................................... 24
Inserting a piping.................................................................. 25
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape............. 26
Stretch stitching.................................................................... 26
Elastic attaching ................................................................... 26
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching........... 27
Appliqué stitching ................................................................ 27
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching........................................... 28
Piecing................................................................................. 28
Quilting................................................................................ 30
Free motion quilting............................................................. 31
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller .................. 32
Reinforcement Stitching..................................... 33
Triple stretch stitching .......................................................... 33
Bar tack stitching.................................................................. 33
Darning................................................................................ 34
Eyelet Stitching .................................................. 36
Decorative Stitching .......................................... 37
Fagoting ............................................................................... 37
Scallop stitching................................................................... 38
Smocking ............................................................................. 38
Shell tuck stitching ............................................................... 39
Joining.................................................................................. 39
Heirloom stitching................................................................ 40
.................................................. 2
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CONTENTS
D Decorative sewing
Chapter 1 CHARACTER / DECORATIVE
STITCHES 2
Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns
Selecting stitch patterns .......................................................... 2
Deleting a pattern................................................................... 3
Sewing attractive finishes ....................................................... 3
Basic sewing .......................................................................... 4
Combining patterns................................................................ 5
Checking the selected pattern................................................. 6
Repeating combined patterns ................................................. 6
Saving a pattern...................................................................... 6
Retrieving a pattern ................................................................ 7
Realigning the pattern ............................................................ 7
A Appendix
Chapter 1 MAINTENANCE AND
TROUBLESHOOTING 2
Care and Maintenance.......................................... 2
Restrictions on oiling.............................................................. 2
Precautions on storing the machine........................................ 2
Cleaning the LCD screen........................................................ 2
Cleaning the machine surface ................................................ 2
Cleaning the race ................................................................... 2
Troubleshooting.................................................... 5
Frequent troubleshooting topics ............................................. 5
Upper thread tightened up ..................................................... 5
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric .................................. 6
Incorrect thread tension.......................................................... 7
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed ........ 8
If the thread becomes tangled under the bobbin winder seat
Error message “E06” appears in the LCD .............................. 13
List of symptoms................................................................... 15
Error messages...................................................................... 21
Operation beep.................................................................... 22
Index .................................................................. 23
.... 2
..... 11
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Basic
operations
This section provides details on the initial setup procedures as well as descriptions of this machine’s more useful functions.
Page number starts with “B” in this section.
Chapter1 GETTING READY....................................................B-2
Chapter2 STARTING TO SEW ..............................................B-31
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
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Chapter 1
GETTING READY
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the machine and their functions are described below. Before using the machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts and their locations.
Machine
Front view
The appearance of the machine differs depending on the model.
1 Top cover
Open the top cover to place the spool of thread on the spool pin.
2 Thread guide plate
Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when threading the upper thread.
3 Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk
Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.
4 Spool cap
Use the spool cap to hold the spool of thread in place.
5 Spool pin
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
6 Bobbin winder
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
7 LCD (liquid crystal display)
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages appear in the LCD. (page B-11)
8 Operation panel
From the operation panel, stitch settings can be selected and edited, and operations for using the machine can be selected. (page B-5)
9 Operation buttons and sewing speed controller
Use these buttons and the slide to operate the machine. (page B-4)
0 Flat bed attachment
Insert the presser foot accessory tray into the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment. Remove the flat bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.
A Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
B Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader lever to thread the needle.
C Thread tension dial
Use the dial to adjust the upper thread tension. (page B-39)
B-2
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
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Right-side/rear view
The appearance of the machine differs depending on the model.
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c
d
1 Handwheel
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch.
2 Presser foot pressure dial
Adjust the amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric.
3 Handle
Carry the machine by its handle when transporting.
4 Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.
5 Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to raise and lower the feed dogs. (page S-31)
6 Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the machine on and off.
7 Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power supply jack.
8 Foot controller
Depress the foot controller to control the speed of the machine. (page B-34)
9 Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the machine is being used.
0 Foot controller jack
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.
B
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-3
Page 12
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
CAUTION
Needle and presser foot section
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1 Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
2 Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams.
3 Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race.
4 Bobbin cover/bobbin case
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
5 Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
6 Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.
7 Presser foot holder
The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.
8 Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot in place. (page B-30)
9 Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks or when darning.
d
a
c
Operation buttons
b
a
b
1 “Start/Stop” button
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The machine stitches at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “STARTING TO SEW” on page B-31. The button changes color according to the machine’s operation mode.
Green: The machine is ready to sew or is sewing.
Red: The machine can not sew.
Orange: The machine is winding the bobbin thread, or
2 Reverse stitch button
For straight, zigzag, and elastic zigzag stitch patterns that use reverse stitches, the machine will sew reverse stitches at low speed only while holding down the Reverse stitch button. The stitches are sewn in the opposite position. For other stitches, use this button to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing. Press and hold this button, and the machine sews 3 stitches in the same spot and stops automatically. (page B-35)
3 Reinforcement stitch button
Use this button to sew a single stitch repeatedly and tie-off. For character/decorative stitches, press this button to end with a full stitch instead of at a mid-point. The LED light beside this button lights up while the machine is sewing a full motif, and automatically turns off when the sewing is stopped. (page B-
35)
4 Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
5 Thread cutter button
(Equipped on some models.)
Press the thread cutter button after sewing is stopped to cut
both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to
j under “Sewing a stitch” on page B-34.
step
6 Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.
c
de
f
the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right side.
B-4
• (Only on models with (Thread cutter button)) Do not press (Thread cutter button) after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
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Note
Operation panel and operation keys
0 Memory key
Press to save stitch pattern combinations to machine memory. For details, refer to “Saving a pattern” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
A OK key
Press to apply the selection, perform the operation or add a stitch pattern.
B Numeric keys
Use these keys to quickly select one of the ten most often used stitches. When selecting other stitches, use these keys to enter the number of the desired stitch.
C Back key
Press this key to cancel the operation and return to the previous screen. In addition, pressing this key removes the last pattern added when combining characters or decorative stitches.
D Character stitch key
Press to select a character stitch.
E Decorative stitch key
Press to select a decorative stitch.
F Utility stitch key
Press to select a utility stitch.
G Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
Press to select the utility stitch assigned to a numeric key or to retrieve a pattern that has been saved.
H Stitch width keys/Pattern check keys
Press to adjust the stitch width or to check stitch pattern combinations in the LCD.
B
GETTING READY
1 LCD (liquid crystal display)
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for incorrect operations appear in the LCD. For details, refer to “LCD” on page B-11
2 Stitch length keys
Press to adjust the stitch length in the LCD.
3 Automatic thread cutting key
(Equipped on some models.)
Press to select the automatic thread cutting function.
4 Automatic reverse/reinforcement key
Press to use the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching function.
5 Initial needle position key
Press to select either “1 Straight stitch (Left)” or “3 Straight stitch (Middle)” as the utility stitch that is automatically selected when the machine is turned on.
6 Single/repeat sewing key
Press to choose single pattern or continuous patterns.
7 Needle position key
Press to select the needle stop position (the needle position for when the machine is not being operated) to be up or down.
8 Width control key
Press to allow the stitch width to be adjusted using the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to “Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller” in the “Sewing” section.
9 Twin needle key
Press to use the twin needle. For details, refer to “Using the twin needle” on page B-23.
• The operation keys of this machine are capacitive touch sensors. Operate the keys by directly touching them with your finger. The response of the keys varies according to the user. The pressure exerted on the keys does not affect the response of the keys.
• Since the operation keys react differently depending on the user, adjust the setting for the input sensitivity. (page B-12)
• When using an electrostatic touch pen, make sure that its point is 8 mm or more. Do not use a touch pen with a thin point or a unique shape.
Basic operations B-5
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
1
1
2
b
a
Using the flat bed attachment
Pull the top of the flat bed attachment to open the accessory compartments.
The shape of the flat bed attachment differs depending on the machine model.
A presser foot accessory tray is stored in the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment.
1 Storage space of the flat bed attachment 2 Presser foot accessory tray
B-6
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
Note
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G
I
R
A
/
Included accessories
Included accessories may differ from the table below depending on your model. For more details on included accessories and their part codes of your machine, refer to the Quick Reference Guide.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
B
N
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.
Buttonhole foot “A”
13. 14.
Monogramming foot “N” Overcasting foot “G” Zipper foot “I” Blind stitch foot “R” Button fitting foot “M”
Needle set
*1
Twin needle
*2
Bobbin (4) (One is on machine.)
15. 16. 17.
Seam ripper Cleaning brush
Eyelet punch
18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.
Spool cap (medium) (2) (One is on machine.)
24. 25. 26.
Screwdriver
Spool cap (small) Thread spool insert (mini
*3
king thread spool)
Disc-shaped screwdriver Horizontal spool pin Spool cap (large)
Spool net Bobbin case
(on machine)
Foot controller
M
GETTING READY
Accessory bag Operation Manual Quick Reference Guide
*1
75/11 2 needles, 90/14 2 needles, 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
*2
2/11 needle
*3
Either of the two is included with this machine.
• (For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 888-F10. The product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.
Basic operations B-7
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
Memo
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Optional accessories differ depending on your model. For more optional accessories and their part codes, refer to the Quick Reference Guide.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Quilting foot Walking foot 1/4" quilting foot 1/4" quilting foot with guide Quilting guide Side cutter “S”
7. 8. 9. 10.
O
Roller foot Free motion open toe
quilting foot “O”
L-shaped screwdriver Straight stitch foot and
needle plate set
• To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your authorized Brother dealer.
• All specifications are correct at the time of printing. Please be aware that some specifications may change without notice.
• A variety of feet are available to enable different types of stitching and finishes. Visit your nearest authorized Brother dealer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.
• Always use accessories recommended for this machine.
B-8
Page 17
Turning the Machine On/Off
WARNING
CAUTION
Turning the Machine On/Off
• Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire,
electric shock, or damage to the machine.
• Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power
cord receptacle on the machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.
• Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
• Turn the main power to OFF and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
When you are away from the machine After using the machine When the power fails during use When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms
• Use only the power cord included with this machine.
• Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with any other appliances plugged into them. Fire or
electric shock may result.
• Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
• When unplugging the machine, always turn the main power to OFF first. Always grasp the plug to remove
it from the electrical outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
• Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord, or cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized Brother dealer for repairs before continuing use.
• Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise, a fire may
result.
• When leaving the machine unattended, either the main switch of the machine should be turned to OFF or
the plug must be removed from the electrical outlet.
• When servicing the machine or when removing covers, the machine must be unplugged.
•(For U.S.A. only)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized electrical outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the electrical outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper electrical outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
B
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-9
Page 18
Turning the Machine On/Off
Memo
1
2
Turning on the machine
Make sure that the machine is turned off (the main
a
power switch is set to “ ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.
Insert the plug of the power cord into a household
b
electrical outlet.
1 Power supply jack 2 Main power switch
Press the right side of the main power switch on the
c
right side of the machine to turn the machine on (set it to “I”).
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
a
Press the main power switch on the right side of the
b
machine in the direction of the “ ” symbol to turn the machine off.
The light, LCD and the “Start/Stop” button light up
when the machine is turned on.
• When the machine is turned on, the needle and the feed dogs will make a sound when they move; this is not a malfunction.
• If the machine is turned off in the middle of sewing in the “Sewing” function, the operation will not resume after turning the power on again.
B-10
Page 19
LCD
8
2 1
B A 9
76543
0
8
2
1
D C
763
LCD
Viewing the LCD
When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on, and the following screen is displayed.
The screen is changed using the keys below the LCD.
Utility stitch screen Character/Decorative stitch screen (refer to the “Decorative sewing” section)
No. Display Item Name Explanation Page
1 Stitch category Shows the category of the currently selected stitch pattern.
: Preset utility stitch
: Utility stitch
: Decorative stitch
: Character stitch (Gothic font)
: Character stitch (Handwriting font)
: Character stitch (Outline)
: Character stitch (Japanese font)
2 Presser foot Shows presser foot to be used. B-29
3 Single/repeat sewing Shows single or continuous pattern sewing mode setting.
: Single sewing mode
: Repeat sewing mode
4 Reinforcement priority
5 Width control Shows that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller. S-32
6 Needle position setting Shows single or twin needle mode setting, and the needle stop position.
7 Initial needle position Shows either “1 Straight stitch (Left)” or “3 Straight stitch (Middle)” as the utility
8 - Stitch number Shows the number of the currently selected stitch pattern. B-42
9 Automatic thread cutting
0 Automatic reverse/
A Stitch length Shows the stitch length of the currently selected stitch pattern. B-38
B Stitch width Shows the stitch width of the currently selected stitch pattern. B-38
C - Total number Shows the total number of characters that are being combined. D-5
D - Position number Shows the position of the selected stitch number. D-5
(Equipped on some models)
reinforcement stitching
Shows that reinforcement priority has been set to “ ”.
: Single needle/down position
: Single needle/up position
: Twin needle/down position
: Twin needle/up position
stitch that is automatically selected when the machine is turned on.
: Straight stitch (Left)
: Straight stitch (Middle)
Shows automatic cutting for both the upper and the bobbin threads after sewing. B-40
Shows automatic reverse or reinforcement stitching after a pattern is sewn. B-35
B-31
D-6
B-37
B-5
B-5
B
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-11
Page 20
LCD
1
Note
Note
Adjusting input sensitivity for operation keys
You can adjust the sensitivity of the operation keys to five levels. Display the settings screen to set desired level.
Adjust the input sensitivity by pressing the “-” or “+”
d
key.
• The lower the setting, the less sensitive the keys will be; the higher the setting, the more sensitive the keys will be. The default setting is “3”.
• We recommend selecting the highest setting if an electrostatic touch pen is being used.
Press any of the operation keys, other than the “-” or
e
“+” key to check the sensitivity. When the key responds, “ ” blinks.
1 Operation keys
Turn off the machine.
a
While pressing (Reinforcement stitch button) on
b
the operation panel, turn on the sewing machine.
Press the “-” or “+” key to select “ ”.
c
Turn off the machine, then turn it on again.
f
• Before turning off the machine, press any of the keys, other than “-” or “+” key. Otherwise the machine may not save the setting.
If the machine does not respond when an operation key is pressed
Turn machine off, then hold down (Needle position button) and turn on the machine to reset the settings. Turn off the machine, and then adjust the settings again.
B-12
Page 21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
CAUTION
Memo
Memo
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
• Only use the Bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) designed specifically for this machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
• The included bobbin was designed specifically for this machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). SA156 is Class15 type bobbin.
* Made of plastic
1 This model 2 Other models 3 11.5 mm (approx. 7/16 inch)
• The shape of the bobbin winder guide post will differ depending on your model; however, this should not affect the operating procedure. This manual describes the procedure for models with a key-shaped bobbin winder guide post.
1
1 Bobbin winder guide post (oval)
1
1 Bobbin winder guide post (key)
B
GETTING READY
• When the foot controller is connected, bobbin winding can be started and stopped with the foot controller.
Winding the bobbin
This section describes how to wind thread onto a bobbin.
Open the top cover.
a
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the
b
spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into place.
1
2
1 Notch 2 Bobbin winder shaft spring
Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the arrow
c
until it snaps into place.
.
• The “Start/Stop” button lights up in orange.
Basic operations B-13
Page 22
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
CAUTION
1
2
Memo
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool
d
pin.
• When using the spool as shown below, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.
1 Spool pin 2 Spool cap
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto the spool
e
pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
f
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
c
a
1 Spool cap (small) 2 Spool (cross-wound thread) 3 Space
• When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool.
1
3
b
2
• If the spool or the spool cap is not installed correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin, causing the needle to break.
• Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the machine may be damaged. When using mini king thread spool, use the thread spool insert (mini king thread spool). For details on thread spool insert (mini king thread spool), refer to “Memo” on page B-14.
4
1 Spool net 2 Spool 3 Spool cap 4 Spool pin
• If a spool of thread whose core is 12 mm (1/2 inch) in diameter and 75 mm (3 inches) high is inserted onto the spool pin, use the thread spool insert (mini king thread spool).
1 Thread spool insert (mini king thread spool) 2 12 mm (1/2 inch) 3 75 mm (3 inches)
B-14
Page 23
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
Note
1
1
2
3
Note
CAUTION
Note
1
While holding the thread near the spool with your right
g
hand, as shown, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
1
1 Thread guide cover
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate, and then
h
pull it to the right.
While holding the thread with your left hand, wind the
j
thread that was pulled out clockwise around the bobbin five or six times with your right hand.
• Make sure that the thread between the spool and the bobbin is pulled tight.
• Be sure to wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin, otherwise the thread will become wrapped around the bobbin winder shaft.
Pass the end of the thread through the guide slit in the
k
bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it.
B
GETTING READY
1 Thread guide plate
Pass the thread under the hook on the thread guide,
i
and then wind it counterclockwise under the pretension disk.
1 Thread guide 2 Pretension disk 3 Pull it in as far as possible
• Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disk.
1 Guide slit in bobbin winder seat
(with built-in cutter)
• Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right.
l
1
1 Speed controller
• Bobbin winding speeds may vary depending on
type of thread being wound on bobbin.
Basic operations B-15
Page 24
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
Note
CAUTION
Memo
Memo
Memo
CAUTION
Turn on the machine.
m
Press the “Start/Stop” button once to start winding the
n
bobbin. When the foot controller is plugged in, press down on the foot controller.
1
1 “Start/Stop” button
• When winding transparent nylon thread on the bobbin, stop bobbin winding when the bobbin is 1/2 to 2/3 full. If the bobbin is fully wound with transparent nylon thread, the pressure may create fractures to the plastic bobbin. This will lead to irregular stitches or possible breakage to bobbin.
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and then
q
remove the bobbin from the shaft.
• If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right side, the needle will not move. (Sewing is impossible.)
Slide the sewing speed controller back to desired
r
sewing speed position.
Remove the spool for the bobbin thread from the spool
s
pin.
• When the machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
When the bobbin winding becomes slow, press the
o
“Start/Stop” button once to stop the machine. When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your foot from the foot controller.
• When the bobbin winding becomes slow, stop the machine, otherwise the machine may be damaged.
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread wound around
p
the bobbin.
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread. You can begin sewing immediately without pulling up the bobbin thread by simply inserting the bobbin in the bobbin case and guiding the thread through the slit in the needle plate cover.
• For details on sewing after pulling up the bobbin thread, for example, when making gathers or with free motion quilting, refer to “Pulling up the bobbin thread” on page B-23.
• Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
B-16
• Before inserting or changing the bobbin, be sure to turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts operating.
Page 25
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to
CAUTION
2
1
Memo
a
raise the needle.
Turn off the machine.
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
• The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
B
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
d
1 Bobbin cover 2 Latch
Remove the bobbin cover.
e
Hold the bobbin with your right hand with the thread
f
unwinding to the left, and hold the end of the thread with your left hand. Then, with your right hand, place the bobbin in the bobbin case.
While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right
h
hand (1), guide the thread through the slit in the needle plate cover (2) and lightly pull it with your left hand (3).
• The thread enters the tension spring of the bobbin case.
GETTING READY
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right hand
g
(1), and then guide the end of the thread around the tab of the needle plate cover with your left hand (2).
1 Tab
• Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unwind the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right
i
hand (1), continue guiding the thread through the slit with your left hand (2) Then, cut the thread with the cutter (3).
Basic operations B-17
Page 26
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
Note
Memo
1
1
2
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through the
tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
1 Tension-adjusting spring
Reattach the bobbin cover.
j
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
The bobbin threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in “Upper Threading” on page B-19.
• You can begin sewing without pulling up the
bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” on page B-23.
B-18
Page 27
Upper Threading
CAUTION
Note
1
1
1
• Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break. When using mini king thread spool, use the thread spool insert (mini king thread spool). For more information regarding the choice of spool caps for your thread choice, see page B-14.
Upper Threading
Turn on the machine.
a
Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot.
b
1 Presser foot lever
The upper thread shutter opens so the machine can
be threaded.
B
GETTING READY
• When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
• Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
• Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct combination of needles and threads, refer to “Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations” on page B-26.
Threading the upper thread
a
1 Shutter
• If the presser foot is not raised, the machine cannot be threaded.
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to
c
raise the needle.
1 Needle position button
The needle is correctly raised when the mark on the
handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the
handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press (Needle position button) until it is.
When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions.
1 Mark on handwheel
Turn off the machine.
d
Basic operations B-19
Page 28
Upper Threading
CAUTION
1
2
1
Note
a
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool
e
pin.
1 Spool pin 2 Spool cap
Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
f
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
While holding the thread lightly with your right hand,
i
pass the thread under the thread guide plate, and then pull it up.
1 Thread guide plate
Pass the thread through the thread channel in the order
j
shown below.
• If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
g
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
While holding the thread lightly with your right hand,
h
pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
1 Shutter
• If the presser foot has been lowered and the shutter is closed, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot to open the shutter before threading the machine. In addition, before removing the upper thread, be sure to raise the presser foot to open the shutter.
• This machine is equipped with a window that allows you to check the position of the take-up lever. Look through this window and check that the thread is correctly fed through the take-up lever.
1 Thread guide cover
B-20
Page 29
Upper Threading
Memo
1
2
2
1
a
b
Note
1
a
1
Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide.
k
The thread can easily be slid behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand, as shown. Make sure that the thread is passed through to the left of the tab of the needle bar thread guide.
1 Needle bar thread guide 2 Tab
Threading the needle
• The needle threader can be used with machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle.
• When thread such as transparent nylon monofilament or specialty threads are used it is not recommended to use the needle threader.
• If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to “Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)” on page B-22.
Pull the end of the thread, which has been passed
a
through the needle bar thread guide, to the left, then pass the thread through the notch of the threader thread guide a, and then firmly pull the thread from the front and insert it into the slit of the threader thread guide disk marked “7” all the way b.
• Make sure that the thread passes through the notch of the threader thread guide.
Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the left side of
b
the machine.
1 Cutter
• If the thread is pulled through and cannot be cut correctly, lower the presser foot lever so that the thread is held in place before cutting the thread. If this operation is performed, skip step
• When using thread that quickly winds off the spool, such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut. Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out about 8 cm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it through the threader thread guide disks (marked “7”).
1
1 8 cm (approx. 3 inches) or more
B
GETTING READY
c.
1 Notch of the threader thread guide 2 Threader thread guide disk
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the presser foot.
c
1 Presser foot lever
Basic operations B-21
Page 30
Upper Threading
Note
CAUTION
CAUTION
Lower the needle threader lever on the left side of the
d
machine until it clicks, and then slowly return the lever to its original position.
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)
When using specialty thread, such as transparent nylon thread, a wing needle or a twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.
Thread the machine until you reach the eye of the
a
needle.
• For details, refer to “Threading the upper thread” on page B-19.
1 Hook 2 Needle threader lever
The hook is rotated and passes the thread through the
eye of the needle.
• If the needle is not raised to its highest position, the needle threader cannot thread the needle. Turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the needle is at its highest position. The needle is correctly raised when the mark on the handwheel is at the top, as shown under step page B-19.
Carefully pull the end of thread that was passed
e
through the eye of the needle.
If the needle was not completely threaded, but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.
c on
Lower the presser foot lever.
b
1
1 Presser foot lever
Insert the thread through the eye of the needle from
c
front to back.
• When pulling out the thread, do not pull it with extreme force, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the thread
f
through and under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (approx. 2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
1
1 5 cm (approx. 2 inches)
• Make sure you turn the power off while threading the needle manually. Otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts operating.
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the thread
d
through and under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (approx. 2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
B-22
Page 31
Pulling up the bobbin thread
Memo
CAUTION
1
2
When making gathers or before free motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
Refer to “Threading the upper thread” (page B-19) to
a
thread the machine with the upper thread and thread the needle.
Follow steps d to f “Installing the bobbin” (page B-
b
16) for installing the bobbin to insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
Upper Threading
Reattach the bobbin cover.
g
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
Using the twin needle
B
GETTING READY
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
c
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
While lightly holding the upper thread with your left
d
hand, press (Needle position button) twice to lower and then raise the needle.
The bobbin thread is looped around the upper thread
and can be pulled up.
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the
e
end of the bobbin thread.
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the horizontal spool pin and the appropriate spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” beginning on page B-42.
• Traditionally a twin needle is also used for creating pin tucks. Contact your nearest authorized Brother dealer to obtain the optional pin tuck foot for your machine (SA194, F069: XF5832-001).
Pull up the bobbin thread, pass it under the presser
f
foot and pull it about 10 cm (4 inches) toward the back of the machine, making it even with the upper thread.
• Only use the twin needle (2/11 needle, part code: X59296-121). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the machine may be damaged.
Install the twin needle.
a
• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” on page B-27.
Thread the upper thread for the left needle eye.
b
• For details, refer to steps “Threading the upper thread” on page B-19.
a through k of
Basic operations B-23
Page 32
Upper Threading
1
CAUTION
CAUTION
Manually thread the left needle with the upper thread.
c
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.
Insert the horizontal spool pin onto the bobbin winder
d
shaft.
Insert the horizontal spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
Thread the upper thread in the same way that the
g
upper thread for the left side was threaded.
1
1 Thread guide cover
• For details, refer to steps h through j of
“Threading the upper thread” on page B-19.
Without passing the thread through the needle bar
h
thread guide, manually thread the right needle.
Insert the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back.
1 Bobbin winder shaft
Swing the spool pin toward the left so that it is
e
horizontal.
Place the upper thread spool for the needle on the right
f
side onto the horizontal spool pin, and then secure it with the spool cap.
The thread should unwind from the front at the bottom of the spool.
12
1 Spool cap 2 Spool
• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the machine may be damaged.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
i
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” on page B-29.
• When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”. If bunched stitches occur, use monogramming foot “N” or attach stabilizer material.
Turn on the machine and select a stitch.
j
• For stitch selection see “Selecting a stitch pattern” on page B-32.
• See “Stitch Setting Chart” on page B-42 for stitches that use a twin needle.
• When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
B-24
Page 33
Press to turn on the twin needle mode.
CAUTION
Note
CAUTION
k
Make sure that appears on the LCD.
• When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Start sewing.
l
• For details on starting to sew, refer to “STARTING TO SEW” on page B-31.
Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.
Upper Threading
B
GETTING READY
• When changing the sewing direction, press (Needle position button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.
• Do not try turning the fabric while the twin needle is down in the fabric, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Basic operations B-25
Page 34
Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations
CAUTION
Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations
• Needles that can be used with this machine: Home sewing machine needles (size 65/9 - 100/16) * The larger the number, the larger the needle. As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer.
• Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight * Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. It may cause machine to malfunction. * The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. As the numbers increase, the thread gets finer.
• The machine needle and thread that should be used depends on the type and thickness of the fabric. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
- The combinations shown in the table provide a general guideline. Be sure to sew trial stitches on the actual number of
layers and type of fabric to be used in your project.
- The machine needles are consumables. For safety and best results, we recommend replacing the needle regularly. For
details on when to replace the needle, refer to “Checking the needle” on page B-27.
• In principle, use a fine needle and thread with lightweight fabrics, and a larger needle and heavier thread with heavyweight fabrics.
• Select a stitch appropriate for the fabric, and then adjust the stitch length. When sewing lightweight fabrics, make the stitch length finer (shorter). When sewing heavyweight fabrics, make the stitch length coarser (longer). (page B-38) When sewing stretch fabrics, refer to “Sewing stretch fabrics” in the “Sewing” section.
Fabric Type/Application
Lightweight fabrics
Medium weight fabrics
Heavyweight fabrics
Stretch fabrics (knit fabrics, etc.)
For top-stitching
Lawn, georgette, challis, organdy, crepe, chiffon, voile, gauze, tulle, lining, etc.
Broadcloth, taffeta, gabardine, flannel, seersucker, double gauze, linen, terry cloth, waffle weave, sheeting, poplin, cotton twill, satin, quilting cotton, etc.
Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas, etc.
Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas, tweed, corduroy, velour, melton wool, vinyl-coated fabric, etc.
Jersey, tricot, T-shirt fabric, fleece, interlock, etc.
Cotton thread,
Cotton thread,
Cotton thread
Cotton thread,
Cotton thread,
Polyester thread,
Polyester thread,
Cotton thread
Thread
Type Weight
Polyester
thread
Silk thread
Polyester
thread
Silk thread
Polyester
thread,
Polyester
thread
Silk thread
Silk thread
60 - 90
50 - 80
60 - 90
50 - 60
30 100/16
60
30 - 50
50
30 90/14 - 100/16
50 - 60 75/11 - 90/14
Transparent nylon thread
Use a home sewing machine topstitching needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
Size of needle
65/9 - 75/11
75/11 - 90/14
90/14 - 100/16
Ball point needle
75/11 - 90/14
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Fine stitches
1.8-2.5
(1/16-3/32)
Regular stitches
2.0-3.0
(1/16-1/8)
Coarse stitches
2.5-4.0
(3/32-3/16)
Setting appropriate for
the fabric thickness
Setting appropriate for
the fabric thickness
• The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the preceding table. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
B-26
Page 35
Replacing the Needle
CAUTION
CAUTION
1
2
1
1
Note
CAUTION
Note
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
• Only use recommended home sewing machine
needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Checking the needle
Replacing the Needle
• Replace the needle in cases such as the four described below:
1 If an unusual sound is produced when the needle
enters the fabric while sewing trial stitches at low speed. (The tip of the needle may be broken.)
2 If stitches are skipped. (The needle may be bent.) 3 After completing one project, such as a piece of
clothing.
4 After using three full bobbins of thread.
Replacing the needle
Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle”.
B
GETTING READY
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.
1 Flat side 2 Needle type marking
• If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to
a
raise the needle.
Turn off the machine.
b
• Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts operating.
Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to cover
c
the hole in the needle plate.
• Before replacing the needle, cover the hole in the
needle plate with fabric or paper to prevent the needle from falling into the machine.
Lower the presser foot.
d
1 Flat surface
Basic operations B-27
Page 36
Replacing the Needle
CAUTION
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use a
e
screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.
• The needle clamp screw can also be loosened or tightened with the disc-shaped (or L-shaped) screwdriver.
2
1 Screwdriver 2 Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the machine may be damaged.
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the
f
machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.
1
1
1 Needle stopper
While holding the needle with your left hand, use the
g
screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.
Turn the screw toward the back of the machine (clockwise).
• Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.
B-28
Page 37
Replacing the Presser Foot
CAUTION
CAUTION
a
b
2
3
4
1
1
Replacing the Presser Foot
Place a different presser foot below the holder so that
e
the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.
B
• Use the presser foot appropriate for the type
of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
• Only use presser feet designed specifically for
this machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
Replacing the presser foot
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to
a
raise the needle.
Turn off the machine.
b
• Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to
turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts operating.
Raise the presser foot lever, if necessary.
c
Press the black button at the back of the presser foot
d
holder.
1
4
2
3
1 Presser foot holder 2 Notch 3 Pin 4 Presser foot type
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser
f
foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.
1 Presser foot lever 2 Presser foot holder 3 Notch 4 Pin
The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the presser
g
foot is securely attached.
J
GETTING READY
1 Black button 2 Presser foot holder
1 Presser foot lever
Basic operations B-29
Page 38
Replacing the Presser Foot
Note
13
2
CAUTION
Note
Attaching the presser foot holder
• When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser
foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the machine, attach the correct presser foot, turn machine back on and then select the desired stitch again.
Zigzag foot “J”
Monogramming foot “N”
Overcasting foot “G”
Buttonhole foot “A”
Blind stitch foot “R”
Button fitting foot “M”
Side cutter “S”
• For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” on page B-42.
Turn off the machine.
a
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-left side of
c
the presser bar.
Hold the presser foot holder in place with your right
d
hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
Turn the screw toward you (clockwise).
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the walking foot and quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
Turn off the machine.
a
Remove the presser foot.
b
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” on page B-29.
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot holder
c
screw.
Turn the screw toward the back of the machine (counterclockwise).
• The presser foot holder screw can also be loosened or tightened with the disc-shaped (or L-shaped) screwdriver.
1
1 Screwdriver
• Be sure to securely tighten the presser foot holder screw, otherwise the presser foot holder may fall off and the needle may strike it, causing the needle to bend or break.
• If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
1 Screwdriver 2 Presser foot holder 3 Presser foot holder screw
B-30
Page 39
Sewing
CAUTION
1
214
2
3
Chapter 2
STARTING TO SEW
Sewing
• While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
• Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
• Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
Stitch selection methods
A stitch can be selected from the following methods available.
Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct select (by pressing the designated key for a specific stitch) or number selection (by entering the number for the stitch pattern).
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to the Quick Reference Guide.
B
STARTING TO SEW
1 Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key 2 Numeric keys
Number selection
After pressing (Utility stitch key), (Decorative
stitch key) or (Character stitch key) to select the stitch mode, use the numeric keys to type in the number for the desired stitch.
Direct selection
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes listed
below. Each press of switches the modes.
Preset utility stitch
The most frequently used utility stitches have been assigned to the numeric keys. These stitches can be selected simply by pressing the designated key. For details, refer to “Preset utility stitches” on page B-46.
Saved patterns
Frequently used patterns and combined patterns can be saved in the machine’s memory and easily
retrieved using (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key). For details, refer to “Saving a pattern”
and “Retrieving a pattern” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
1 Utility stitch key 2 Decorative stitch key 3 Character stitch key 4 Numeric keys
Utility stitches
There are various utility stitches, including straight
stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole stitches.
Decorative stitches
There is one decorative stitch mode.
For details, refer to “Selecting stitch patterns” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
Basic operations B-31
Page 40
Sewing
Character stitches
There are four character stitch modes:
, Gothic font mode
, Handwriting font mode
, Outline font mode
, Japanese font mode For details, refer to “Selecting stitch patterns” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
Selecting a stitch pattern
When selecting a utility stitch
Press .
a
When selecting from the preset utility stitches
Since various stitches have been assigned to the numeric keys, these stitches can be selected simply by pressing the designated numeric key.
Check that appears on the screen.
a
If a different icon is displayed, press .
is displayed on the LCD screen.
Enter the number of the desired stitch using numeric
b
keys, and then press .
• For number of each stitch, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” on page B-42 or the Quick Reference Guide.
• Depending on the stitch number, the stitch may be selected without pressing .
• When using one-digit numbers and it is entered incorrectly, press to erase the entered number.
The selected stitch number is displayed on the LCD
screen.
Press the numeric key on which the desired stitch is
b
printed.
When selecting a character/decorative stitch
After pressing or on the operation panel the necessary number of times, enter a number. For more details, refer to “Selecting stitch patterns” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
B-32
Page 41
Sewing a stitch
Note
CAUTION
Memo
Memo
Turn the main power to ON and press (Needle
a
position button) to raise the needle.
Select the desired stitch following the procedure
b
described in “Selecting a stitch pattern” on page B-32.
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic reverse/
c
reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.
• For details on adjusting the stitch width and length, refer to “Setting the stitch width” on page B-38 and “Setting the stitch length” on page B-38.
Install the presser foot.
d
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the Presser Foot” on page B-29.
• When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears on the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the machine, attach the correct presser foot, turn machine back on and then select the desired stitch again.
• The black button on the left side of zigzag foot “J” should be pressed only if the fabric does not feed or when sewing thick seams. For details, refer to “Sewing thick fabrics” in the “Sewing” section. Normally, you can sew without pressing the black button.
Lower the presser foot.
f
You do not have to pull up the bobbin thread.
Adjust the sewing speed with the sewing speed
g
controller.
You can use this controller to adjust sewing speed during sewing.
b
1 Fast 2 Slow
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing.
h
Guide the fabric lightly by hand.
a
Sewing
B
STARTING TO SEW
• Always use the correct presser foot. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, possibly resulting in injury. Refer to page B-42 for presser foot recommendations.
Set the fabric under the presser foot. Hold the fabric
e
and thread with your left hand, and rotate the handwheel counterclockwise or press (Needle position button) to set the needle in the sewing start position.
• When the foot controller is being used, you cannot start sewing by pressing the “Start/Stop” button.
Press the “Start/Stop” button again to stop sewing.
i
Basic operations B-33
Page 42
Sewing
CAUTION
1
Note
CAUTION
Memo
Memo
Trim the upper and lower threads.
j
When using the thread cutter
When using the thread cutter on the left side of the machine or scissors to cut the threads, press (Needle position button) to raise the needle, raise the presser foot, and then pull out the fabric before cutting the threads.
• When cutting thread such as nylon monofilament thread, or other decorative threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine.
When the needle has stopped moving, raise the presser
k
foot and remove the fabric.
Using the foot controller
You can also use the foot controller to start and stop sewing.
• Do not allow fabric pieces and dust to collect in the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.
• When the foot controller is being used, you
cannot start sewing by pressing the “Start/Stop” button.
• Bobbin winding can be started and stopped with
the foot controller.
Turn off the machine.
a
When the thread cutter button is used (only on models with a thread cutter button)
Press .
1 Thread cutter button
The needle will return to the up position
automatically.
• Do not press (Thread cutter button) after the threads have been cut. Doing so could tangle the thread or break the needle and damage the machine.
• Do not press (Thread cutter button) when there is no fabric set in the machine or during machine operation. The thread may tangle, possibly resulting in damage.
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the
b
machine.
1
1 Foot controller jack
Turn on the machine.
c
Slowly depress the foot controller to start sewing.
d
• The speed that is set using the sewing speed controller will be the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.
B-34
Release the foot controller to stop the machine.
e
Page 43
Sewing
Memo
Memo
Memo
Sewing reinforcement stitches
Reverse/reinforcement stitches are generally necessary at the
beginning and end of sewing. You can use (Reverse stitch button) to sew reverse/reinforcement stitches (Refer to “Stitch
Setting Chart” under the column for “Reverse button” on page B-42.).
While pressing will sew 3 to 5 reinforcement stitches at that point and then
stop.
1 Reverse stitch button 2 Reinforcement stitch button
If the automatic reinforcement stitch is selected, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing when the “Start/Stop” button is
pressed. Press (Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement stitch button) to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches automatically at the end of sewing.
(Reinforcement stitch button), the machine
1 2
Automatic reinforcement stitching
After selecting a stitch motif, turn on the automatic reinforcement stitching function before sewing, and the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the stitch motif) at the beginning and end of sewing. Refer to the table on page B-36.
Select a stitch pattern.
a
Press to set the automatic reinforcement stitching
b
function.
appears on the LCD.
• Some stitches, such as buttonholes and bar tacks, require reinforcement stitches at the beginning of sewing. If you select one of these stitches, the machine will automatically turn on
this function ( appears on the LCD when the stitch is selected).
B
STARTING TO SEW
1 Reverse stitch 2 Reinforcement stitch
The operation performed when the button is pressed differs depending on the selected pattern. Refer to the table in “Automatic reinforcement stitching” on page B-35.
• While pressing (Reinforcement stitch button) when sewing character/decorative stitch pattern, you can end sewing with a completed motif
instead of at the midpoint of a stitch motif.
• The green light on the left of (Reinforcement stitch button) lights up while the machine is sewing a full motif, and it automatically turns off when the sewing is stopped.
Set the fabric in the start position and begin sewing.
c
1 Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches
(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue sewing.
• When selecting the stitches below, the machine will automatically sew reverse stitches at the beginning of the stitch.
• If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause sewing, press it again to continue. The machine will not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches again.
Basic operations B-35
Page 44
Sewing
Memo
Press (Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement
d
stitch button).
1 Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
The machine will sew reverse stitches (or
reinforcement stitches) and stop.
• To turn off the automatic reinforcement stitching
function, press so that in the LCD screen is no longer displayed.
The operation performed when the button is pressed differs depending on the selected pattern. Refer to the following table for details on the operation that is performed when the button is pressed.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is not active while selecting stitches such as examples shown below:
Reverse stitch
button
Machine starts sewing the stitches and only sews reverse stitches while holding the Reverse stitch button.
Reinforcement
stitch button
Machine sews 3 - 5 reinforcement stitches while holding the Reinforcement stitch button.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is active while selecting stitches such as examples shown below:
Machine sews reverse stitches at the beginning and end of sewing.
Machine sews reverse stitches at the beginning and reinforcement stitches at the end of sewing.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is active while selecting stitches such as examples shown below:
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is not active while selecting utility stitches other than the straight or zigzag stitches.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is active while selecting utility stitches other than the straight or zigzag stitches.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is not active while selecting character/ decorative stitches.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is active while selecting character/decorative stitches.
Reverse stitch
button
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and reverse stitches at the end of sewing.
Machine sews 3 - 5 reinforcement stitches while holding the Reverse stitch button.
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing.
Machine starts sewing and then sews reinforcement stitches while holding the Reverse stitch button.
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and sews reinforcement stitches when the Reverse stitch button is pressed.
*
Reinforcement
stitch button
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing.
Machine sews 3 - 5 reinforcement stitches while holding the Reinforcement stitch button.
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing.
Machine starts sewing at the beginning, then completes the pattern when the Reinforcement stitch button is pressed and sews reinforcement stitches at the end of sewing.
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning, then completes the pattern when the Reinforcement stitch button is pressed and sews reinforcement stitches at the end of sewing.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is not active while selecting stitches such as examples shown below:
B-36
Machine starts sewing the stitches and only sews reverse stitches while holding the Reverse stitch
*
button.
Machine starts sewing the stitches and sews 3 - 5 reinforcement stitches while holding the Reinforcement stitch button.
* If (Reinforcement priority) in the settings screen
is turned on, reinforcement stitches are sewn instead of reverse stitches. Refer to “Reinforcement priority” on page B-37.
Page 45
Reinforcement priority
When set to “ ”within the settings screen, reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and/or end of sewing reinforcement stitch patterns, even if (Reverse stitch button) has been pressed. For details, refer to
“Automatic reinforcement stitching” on page B-35.
Turn off the machine.
a
While pressing (Reinforcement stitch button) on
b
the operation panel, turn on the sewing machine.
Press the “-” or “+” key to select “ ”.
c
Sewing
B
STARTING TO SEW
Press the “-” or “+” key to set to “ ”.
d
Turn off the machine, then turn it on again.
e
Basic operations B-37
Page 46
Setting the Stitch
Memo
CAUTION
Memo
Setting the Stitch
This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width and stitch length for each stitch. However, you can change their settings or adjust them by following the procedure described in this section.
Setting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.
• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Setting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch coarser (longer) or finer (shorter).
Each press of “-” makes the zigzag stitch narrower.
Each press of
“+” makes the zigzag stitch wider.
• If the straight stitch or triple stretch stitch was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left.
• When the stitch width is changed from the
standard setting, around disappears. When the stitch width is reset back to the
standard setting, reappears around .
means the setting cannot be adjusted.
Each press of “-” makes the stitch length finer (shorter).
Each press of “+” makes the stitch length coarser (longer).
• When the stitch length is changed from the
standard setting, around disappears. When the stitch length is reset back to the standard
setting, reappears around .
means the setting cannot be adjusted.
B-38
Page 47
Setting the Stitch
Note
1
2
3
4
5
Note
Note
5
1
2
3
4
Setting the thread tension
You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.
Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
1
2
3
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread
Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight. Loosen the thread tension.
4
Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose. Tighten the thread tension.
• If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper Threading” on page B-19 and rethread the upper thread.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread 5 The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the
fabric.
Pushing the thread tension dial toward the right makes the thread tension tighter.
B
STARTING TO SEW
• If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Installing the bobbin” on page B-16 and rethread the bobbin thread.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread 5 The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the
fabric.
Pushing the thread tension dial toward the left makes the thread tension looser.
• If the upper thread is not threaded correctly or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it may not be possible to set the correct thread tension. If the correct thread tension cannot be achieved, rethread the upper thread and insert the bobbin correctly.
Basic operations B-39
Page 48
Useful Functions
Memo
Useful Functions
Automatically cutting the thread (Only on models with automatic thread cutting key)
Once you have reached the end of the stitching, press
e
(Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement stitch
button) once.
The machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called “programmed thread cutting”. If programmed thread cutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set.
Turn on the machine.
a
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch pattern” on page B-32.
Press .
c
and appear in the LCD, and the machine is
set for programmed thread cutting and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.
• To turn programmed thread cutting off, press .
If stitching, such as buttonholes and bar tacking, that includes reinforcement stitching has been selected, this operation is unnecessary.
After the reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching
has been done, the machine stops, and the thread is cut.
1
32
1 The point where the “Start/Stop” button was pressed.
2 The point where (Reverse stitch button) or
(Reinforcement stitch button) was pressed.
3 The thread is cut here.
• Programmed thread cutting will not be performed if the “Start/Stop” button is pressed while sewing.
Press (Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement stitch button) at the end of the stitching.
• If the power is turned off, programmed thread cutting will be turned off.
Set the fabric in place, and press the “Start/Stop”
d
button once.
Stitching will begin after reverse stitches or
reinforcement stitches are sewn.
B-40
Page 49
Adjusting the presser foot pressure
1
You can adjust the presser foot pressure (the amount of pressure applied to the fabric by the presser foot) with the presser foot pressure dial.
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the presser foot.
a
1 Presser foot lever
Turn the presser foot pressure dial at the back of the
b
machine to adjust the pressure of the presser foot.
The presser foot pressure can be set to one of four levels (between 1 and 4). The higher the number, the greater the pressure will be.
Useful Functions
B
STARTING TO SEW
When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to 3
c
(standard).
Basic operations B-41
Page 50
Stitch Setting Chart
Note
Stitch Setting Chart
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.
*1
Patterns printed on the numeric keys on the machine can be selected directly. For details, refer to “Preset utility stitches” on page B-46.
*2
For free motion quilting, use free motion open toe quilting foot “O” (sold separately with some models).
*3
When automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching has been set, the stitch will begin with reinforcement stitch.
If reinforcement priority has been set to “ ”, the machine will sew reinforcement stitches at the end of stitching and then stop.
• The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with the walking foot.
Stitch Stitch name
Stitch
number
*1
01
*1
02
*1
03
*1
04
*1
05
*1
06
07
*1
08
*1
09
10
11
*1
12
*1
13
14
Straight stitch (Left)
Straight stitch (Left)
Straight stitch (Middle)
Straight stitch (Middle)
Triple stretch stitch
Stem stitch
Basting stitch
Zigzag stitch
Zigzag stitch
Zigzag stitch (Right)
2 steps elastic zigzag stitch
3 steps elastic zigzag stitch
Overcasting stitch G
Overcasting stitch G
Presser
foot
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
Stitch width
Applications
General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.
General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.
General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.
General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.
General sewing for reinforcement and decorative topstitching
Reinforced stitching, sewing and decorative applications
Basting 0.0 (0)
For overcasting, mending. 3.5 (1/8)
For overcasting, mending. 3.5 (1/8)
Start from right needle position, zigzag sews to left.
Overcasting (medium weight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic
Overcasting (medium, heavyweight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic
Reinforcing of light and medium weight fabrics
Reinforcing of heavyweight fabric
[mm (inch)]
Auto.
Manual
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16)
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16)
5.0 (3/16)
2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16)
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Auto.
Manual
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
-NO
1.4 (1/16)
0.0 - 5.0 (0 - 3/16)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0 - 5.0 (0 - 3/16)
1.4 (1/16)
0.3 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
needle
Twin
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
NO
NO
Reverse
button
Reverse
Reverse
Reverse
Reverse
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reverse
Reverse
Reverse
Reverse
Reverse
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
*3
*3
*3
*3
*3
*3
B-42
Page 51
Stitch Setting Chart
Stitch Stitch name
Stitch
number
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
Overcasting stitch G
Overcasting stitch
Overcasting stitch
Overcasting stitch
Overcasting stitch
With side cutter
With side cutter
With side cutter
With side cutter
With side cutter
Piecing stitch (Right)
Piecing stitch (Middle)
Hand-look quilting stitch
Quilting appliqué zigzag stitch
Quilting appliqué stitch
Quilting stippling stitch
Blind hem stitch
Blind hem stretc h stitch R
Blanket stitch
Presser
foot
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
S
S
S
S
S
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
R
J
Stitch width
Applications
Reinforcing of medium, heavyweight and easily friable fabrics or decorative stitching.
Reinforced seaming of stretch fabric
Reinforcing of medium stretch fabric and heavyweight fabric, decorative stitching
Reinforcement of stretch fabric or decorative stitching
Stretch knit seam 5.0 (3/16)
Straight stitch while cutting fabrics
Zigzag stitch while cutting fabrics
Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics
Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics
Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics
Piecework/patchwork 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) right seam allowance
Piecework/patchwork
Quilting stitch made to look like hand quilting when using transparent nylon thread for the upper thread and a thread color matching the quilt for the bobbin thread. Sew with a tight thread tension so that the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric. Use a needle between 90/14 and 100/16.
Zigzag stitch for quilting and sewing on appliqué quilt pieces
Quilting stitch for invisible appliqué or attaching binding
Background quilting 7.0 (1/4)
Hemming woven fabrics
Hemming stretch fabric
Appliqués, decorative blanket stitch
[mm (inch)]
Auto.
Manual
5.0 (3/16)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 2.5
(0 - 3/32)
3.5 (1/8)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
3.5 (1/8)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
5.0 (3/16)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
5.0 (3/16)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
5.5 (7/32)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.5 (1/16)
0.0 - 3.5 (0 - 1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
00
-3 - 3
00
-3 - 3
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Auto.
Manual
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
4.0 (3/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
4.0 (3/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0 - 5.0
(0 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0 - 5.0
(0 - 3/16)
1.8 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
Twin
needle
NO
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
OK ( J )
Reverse
button
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reverse
Reverse
Reinforce-
ment
Reverse
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
B
STARTING TO SEW
*3
*3
*3
Basic operations B-43
Page 52
Stitch Setting Chart
Stitch Stitch name
Stitch
number
Shell tuck edge
34
stitch
Satin scallop
35
stitch
Patchwork join
36
stitch
Patchwork
37
double overlock stitch
Couching stitch
38
Smocking stitch
39
Feather stitch
40
Fagoting cross
41
stitch
Tape a t t a c h i ng
42
stitch
Ladder stitch
43
Rick-rack stitch
44
Decorative stitch
45
Serpentine stitch
46
Hemstitching
47
zigzag
Hemstitching
48
Hemstitching
49
Hemstitching
50
Hemstitching
51
Hemstitching
52
Hemstitching
53
Hemstitching
54
Presser
foot
*2
J
*2
N
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
J
*2
N
*2
N
*2
N
*2
N
*2
N
*2
N
*2
N
*2
N
*2
N
Stitch width
Applications
[mm (inch)]
Auto.
Manual
Shell tuck edge finish on fabrics
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorating collar of blouse, edge of handkerchief
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Patchwork stitches, decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Patchwork stitches, decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative stitching, attaching cord and couching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Smocking, decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Fagoting, decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Fagoting, bridging and decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Attaching tape to seam in stretch fabric
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative top stitching 4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative stitching 5.5 (7/32)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative stitching and attaching elastic
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative hems, top stitching
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative hems, lace attaching pin stitch
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative hems 3.0 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Decorative hems daisy stitch 6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Heirloom, decorative hems 5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Heirloom, decorative hems 5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Heirloom, decorative hems 6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Heirloom, decorative hems 6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Auto.
Manual
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.1 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
3.5 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
3.5 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
4.0 (3/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
Twin
needle
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
NO
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
NO
NO
NO
NO
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
NO
Reverse
button
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
B-44
Page 53
Stitch Setting Chart
Stitch Stitch name
Stitch
number
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
Hemstitching
Hemstitching
Hemstitching
Narrow rounded buttonhole stitch A
Narrow squared buttonhole stitch A
Stretch buttonhole stitch A
Heirloom buttonhole stitch A
Bound buttonhole stitch A
Keyhole buttonhole stitch A
Keyhole buttonhole stitch A
Darning stitch
Darning stitch
Bar tack stitch
Button sewing stitch M
Eyelet stitch
Presser
foot
*2
N
*2
N
*2
N
A
A
A
N
Stitch width
Applications
Heirloom, decorative hems 4.0 (3/16)
Heirloom, decorative hems 5.0 (3/16)
Decorative hems and bridging stitch
Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics
Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch or woven fabrics
Buttonholes for heirloom and stretch fabrics
The first step in making bound buttonholes
Buttonholes in heavyweight or thick fabrics for larger flat buttons
Buttonholes with vertical bar tack for reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics
Darning of medium weight fabric
Darning of heavyweight fabric 7.0 (1/4)
Reinforcement at opening of pocket, etc.
Attaching buttons 3.5 (1/8)
For making eyelets, holes on belts, etc.
[mm (inch)]
Auto.
Manual
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
5.0 (3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
5.0 (3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
6.0 (15/64)
3.0 - 6.0
(1/8 - 15/64)
6.0 (15/64)
3.0 - 6.0
(1/8 - 15/64)
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 6.0
(0 - 15/64)
7.0 (1/4)
3.0 - 7.0
(1/8 - 1/4)
7.0 (1/4)
3.0 - 7.0
(1/8 - 1/4)
7.0 (1/4)
2.5 - 7.0
(3/32 - 1/4)
2.5 - 7.0
(3/32 - 1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
1.0 - 3.0
(1/16 - 1/8)
2.5 - 4.5
(3/32 - 3/16)
7.0 (1/4)
7.0 6.0 5.0 (1/4 15/64
3/16)
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Auto.
Manual
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
0.4 (1/64)
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
0.4 (1/64)
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
1.0 (1/16)
0.5 - 2.0
(1/32 - 1/16)
1.5 (1/16)
1.0 - 3.0
(1/16 - 1/8)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 4.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 2.5
(1/64 - 3/32)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 2.5
(1/64 - 3/32)
0.4 (1/64)
0.3 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
7.0 (1/4)
7.0 6.0 5.0 (1/4 15/64
3/16)
Twin
needle
NO
OK ( J )
OK ( J )
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
Reverse
button
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
Reinforce-
ment
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
B
STARTING TO SEW
Basic operations B-45
Page 54
Stitch Setting Chart
Preset utility stitches
The most frequently used utility stitches have been assigned to the numeric keys. These stitches can be selected simply by pressing the designated key while in the preset utility stitch mode.
Preset utility
stitches
Stitch name
Straight stitch (Left)
Straight stitch (Left)
Straight stitch (Middle)
Straight stitch (Middle)
Zigzag stitch
Zigzag stitch
Triple stretch stitch
Stem stitch
Overcasting stitch
3 steps elastic zigzag stitch
Stitch number
01
02
03
04
08
09
05
06
13
12
B-46
Page 55
Sewing
CAUTION
This section describes procedures for using the various utility stitches as well as other functions. It provides details on basic sewing in addition to the more expressive features of the machine, such as sewing tubular pieces and buttonholes. Page number starts with “S” in this section.
Chapter1 SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES......................... S-2
Chapter2 UTILITY STITCHES................................................... S-6
• Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts operating. For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the Presser Foot” in the “Basic operations” section.
Page 56
Sewing Tips
Chapter 1
SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES
Sewing Tips
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
Sewing curves
Sew slowly while slightly changing the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to “Sewing an even seam allowance” on page S-3.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the machine.
a
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle
remains up when the machine stops sewing, press (Needle position button) to lower the needle.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric.
b
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue sewing.
c
Sewing cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment allows for free-arm sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs.
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
a
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the free arm,
b
and then sew from the top.
S-2
Page 57
Sewing Tips
1
2
1
2
3
When you are finished with free arm sewing, install the
c
flat bed attachment back in its original position.
Sewing an even seam allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1 Seam 2 Presser foot
Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot (sold separately with some models)
Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric aligned with a desired position of markings on the stitch guide foot.
Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking on the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
For stitches with a left needle position (Stitch width: 0.0 mm)
S
SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES
1 Seam 2 Presser foot 3 Centimeters 4 Inches 5 Needle plate 6 1.6 cm (5/8 inch)
1 Seam 2 Stitch guide foot 3 Markings
Sewing S-3
Page 58
Sewing Various Fabrics
b
a
dc
Memo
CAUTION
Sewing Various Fabrics
Sewing thick fabrics
If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
The presser foot lever can be raised to two different positions. If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot, for example, when sewing together thick fabrics, raise the presser foot lever to its highest position so that the fabric can be placed under the presser foot.
While holding zigzag foot “J” level, push in and hold
c
the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side), and lower the presser foot lever.
1
1 Presser foot locking pin (black button)
Release the presser foot locking pin (black button).
d
The presser foot remains level, allowing the fabric to
be fed.
If the fabric does not feed
When sewing thick fabric such as denim or quilting, the fabric may not feed at the start of sewing if the presser foot is not level, as shown below. In this case, use the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side) of zigzag foot “J” so that the presser foot remains level while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed smoothly. If the presser foot misalignment is too large, place thick paper or fabric (with the same thickness as the fabric being sewn) under the heel of the presser foot to be able to start sewing smoothly.
1 Sewing direction 2 Misalignment 3 Fabric being sewn 4 Fabric or thick paper
Raise the presser foot lever.
a
Align the beginning of stitching, and then position the
b
fabric.
After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will return to
its original angle.
• You may find adjusting the presser foot pressure dial helpful when sewing thick fabrics.
• If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics such as chiffon, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. Move the needle (be sure to use a fine needle) to the furthest left or right hand position so that the fabric does not get pulled down into the feed dog area. If this occurs or there is shrinkage of the stitching, place non-woven water-soluble stabilizer under the fabric and sew them together. Using the straight stitch needle plate* and straight stitch foot* is also effective when sewing thin fabrics.
* Sold separately with some models.
S-4
1
1 Water-soluble stabilizer (non-woven)
Page 59
Sewing stretch fabrics
1
1
1
Note
CAUTION
Note
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric. If the stitching is misaligned, place non­woven water-soluble stabilizer under the fabric and sew them together.
Sewing Various Fabrics
• The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with the walking foot. When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.
• When using the walking foot, test sew on a scrap piece of leather or vinyl that is to be used in project to make sure foot does not leave any marks.
S
1 Basting
For best results when sewing on knit fabrics use the stretch stitches. Also be sure to use a needle for knits (Ball point needle (gold colored)). The recommended stitches and their stitch numbers are indicated below.
Stitch
11
05
* 06*
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
12
42
*
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics
When sewing fabrics that may stick to the presser foot, such as leather or vinyl fabrics, replace the presser foot with the walking foot*, non stick foot* or roller foot*.
* Sold separately with some models.
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener tape
• Use only the adhesive-free hook-and-loop fastener tape which is designed for sewing. When the glue adheres to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.
• If the hook-and-loop fastener tape is sewn with the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may bend or break.
• Before sewing, baste together the fabric and the
hook-and-loop fastener tape.
Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-and-loop fastener tape by turning the handwheel and lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener tape before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook-and-loop fastener tape at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-loop fastener tape, replace the needle with the needle size for thicker fabrics. For details, refer to “Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations” in the “Basic operations” section.
SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES
1 Leather
If the leather or vinyl fabric sticks to the flat bed attachment, sew with copy paper or tracing paper placed on top of the flat bed attachment so the fabric moves smoothly.
If the paper is positioned so that it does not cover the needle plate, the paper will not be sewn together with the fabric.
1 Copy paper or tracing paper
1 Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener tape
Sewing S-5
Page 60
Basic Stitching
Memo
J
Chapter 2
UTILITY STITCHES
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams.
Stitch name Stitch
Basting stitch 07
Straight stitch (Left)
Straight stitch (Middle)
Straight stitch (Middle)
Triple stretch stitch
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Stitch number
01
*
02*
*
03
04*
*
05
Basic stitching
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
a
Presser foot
J
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select a stitch.
c
Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the
d
stitching.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start sewing.
e
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
f
Basting
Sew basting with the preset stitch length of 5 mm (3/16 inch).
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
J
Select stitch .
b
Start sewing.
c
• If the basting threads fall out of the fabric, pull up the bobbin thread before sewing, and then pull the upper thread and bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the back of the machine (refer to “Pulling up the bobbin thread” in the “Basic operations” section). Hold the upper thread and bobbin thread when beginning to sew, and when finished sewing, cut the threads leaving an excess amount of thread. Finally, hold the upper thread and bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching while arranging the fabric.
S-6
Page 61
Changing the needle position
12
0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0
34 5
6
1
2
The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).
1 Straight stitch (left needle position) 2 Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
Basic Stitching
S
UTILITY STITCHES
1 Stitch width setting 2 Distance from the needle position to the right side of the
presser foot
3 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) 4 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) 5 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) 6 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” in the “Basic operations” section.
Sewing S-7
Page 62
Blind Hem Stitching
Memo
3
1
3
6
5
1
1
2
7
4
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem.
Stitch name Stitch
Blind hem stitch 31
Blind hem stretch
stitch
Stitch number
32
• When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved.
Turn the skirt or pants wrong side out.
a
2
1
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Edge of fabric 4 Bottom side
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and
b
press.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of Fabric 3 Edge of fabric
4
4 Desired edge of hem
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
1
1
1
3
2
2
2
3
<Seen from the side>
Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm (3/16
c
inch) from the edge of the fabric, and then baste it.
1 Wrong side of fabric
3
Presser foot
R
1
5
1
1
6
2
2
2
2 Right side of fabric 3 Edge of fabric 4 Desired edge of hem 5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
4
6 Basting
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.
d
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Edge of fabric 4 Desired edge of hem 5 5 mm (3/16 inch) 6 Basting 7 Basting point
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the fabric with
e
the wrong side facing up.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric
4
1
1
1
6
3
1
1
5
2
3 Edge of fabric 4 Desired edge of hem 5 Basting point 6 Basting
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
S-8
<Seen from the side>
Attach blind stitch foot “R”.
f
Select or .
g
Remove the flat bed attachment to use the free arm.
h
Page 63
Slide the item that you wish to sew onto the free arm,
Memo
1
2
i
make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, and then start sewing.
Blind Hem Stitching
• Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the left needle drop point does not catch the fold. If the needle catches too much of the fold, the fabric cannot be unfolded and the seam appearing on the right side of the fabric will be very large, leaving an unattractive finish. If you experience either of these cases, perform the following instructions to solve the problem.
1 Free arm
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded hem
j
against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Fold of hem 3 Guide
Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches
k
the fold of the hem.
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold
The needle is too far to the left. Decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
Example: Thick fabric
Example: Normal fabric
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric
S
UTILITY STITCHES
1 Needle drop point
When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width.
1 Thick fabric 2 Normal fabric
Sewing S-9
Page 64
Blind Hem Stitching
Note
1
2
If the needle does not catch the hem fold
The needle is too far to the right. Increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
Example: Thick fabric
Example: Normal fabric
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric
Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot
l
guide.
Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop sewing when you
m
are finished, and raise the presser foot and needle to remove the fabric by pulling it back.
• Be sure to pull the fabric backward after finished sewing. If you pull the fabric toward side or forward, the presser foot may be damaged.
Remove the basting stitching and reverse the fabric.
n
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric
S-10
Page 65
Overcasting Stitches
G
a
1
CAUTION
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying.
Overcasting Stitches
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Stitch name Stitch
Overcasting stitch
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
a
Stitch number
*
13
15
• After the stitch width is adjusted, rotate the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). Check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may break and cause injury.
Presser foot
G14
e
1 The needle should not touch the center bar
• If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, the needle may strike the presser foot.
Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop sewing when you are finished, and raise the presser foot and needle to remove the fabric by pulling it back.
S
UTILITY STITCHES
Select a stitch.
b
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against
c
the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
1 Guide
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot
d
guide.
1 Needle drop point
Sewing S-11
Page 66
Overcasting Stitches
J
a
1
Note
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Stitch name Stitch
Zigzag stitch
Zigzag stitch (Right) 10
2 steps elastic zigzag
stitch
3 steps elastic zigzag
stitch
Overcasting stitch
Stitch number
*
08
11
12
*
16
17
18
19
J
Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter (sold separately with some models)
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five utility stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
Presser foot
• Thread the needle manually when using the side
cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the needle threader.
Stitch name Stitch
With side cutter
Stitch number
20
21
22
23
Presser foot
S
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Select a stitch.
b
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the needle
c
dropping off the edge at the right.
1 Needle drop point
24
Side cutter
Remove the presser foot.
a
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter onto the
b
needle clamp screw.
a
b
1 Connecting fork 2 Needle clamp screw
1 Needle drop point
S-12
Page 67
Overcasting Stitches
Note
Memo
1
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin is aligned
c
with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.
b
a
1 Notch in presser foot holder 2 Pin
• When it is hard to set under the presser foot holder, fit the pin on the side cutter into the notch of the presser foot holder raising up the presser foot lever higher.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the side
d
cutter is securely attached.
Position the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on
h
top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot.
a
1 Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.
• If the fabric is not feeding properly, gently guide fabric under foot the same as with regular sewing feet.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start sewing.
i
S
UTILITY STITCHES
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, and then
e
pull it out toward the rear of the machine.
Select a stitch.
f
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in the fabric
g
at the beginning of the stitching.
1
1 2 cm (3/4 inch)
A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line , the seam
allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13-oz. denim.
• After using the side cutter, clean it by removing any lint or dust.
• If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric, use a piece of cloth to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.
Sewing S-13
Page 68
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Buttonhole sewing
Stitch name Stitch
Narrow rounded
buttonhole stitch
Narrow squared
buttonhole stitch
Stretch buttonhole
stitch
Heirloom buttonhole
stitch
Bound buttonhole
stitch
Keyhole buttonhole
stitch
Keyhole buttonhole
stitch
Button sewing stitch 68 M
Stitch number
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Presser foot
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
A
1 Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used to create buttonholes, are indicated below.
1
2
5
3
4
A
1 Button guide plate 2 Presser foot scale 3 Pin 4 Marks on buttonhole foot 5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
S-14
Page 69
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
2
1
Memo
a
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position and length
a
of the buttonhole.
1
1 Marks on fabric 2 Buttonhole sewing
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole foot “A”,
b
and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.
2
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
Position the upper thread under the presser foot by guiding thread through the hole in the presser foot before attaching the buttonhole foot “A”.
Select a stitch.
d
Position the fabric with the front end of the buttonhole
e
mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
1
A
2
3
1 Mark on fabric (front) 2 Red marks on buttonhole foot 3 Upper thread
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot.
S
UTILITY STITCHES
If the button does not fit in the button guide plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
2
3
1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of buttonhole (diameter + thickness of button) 3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
1 Do not reduce the gap.
• If there is difficulty in aligning the marks, slowly turn the handwheel toward you to check where the needle will enter the fabric, and then align the mark on the fabric with that point.
1 10 mm (3/8 inch) 2 15 mm (9/16 inch)
The size of the buttonhole is set.
Sewing S-15
Page 70
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Memo
Memo
CAUTION
1
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.
f
• If the automatic thread cutting setting was selected before sewing, the machine will automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. For details, refer to “Automatically cutting the thread” in the “Basic operations” section.
a
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left
g
hand, and then start sewing.
Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.
a
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at the end
b
of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.
1
1 Pin
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open
c
the buttonhole.
1 Seam ripper
Cut the thread.
h
When using the cutter on the left side of the machine
• When using the thread cutter on the left side of the machine or scissors to cut the threads, press
(Needle position button) to raise the needle, raise the presser foot, and then pull out the fabric before cutting the threads.
Cut the threads with the thread cutter by pulling fabric and threads toward the back of the machine; then up and over to the left side of the machine, placing threads on the top of the thread cutter and gently pulling down. The threads will then cut.
When the thread cutter button is used (only on models with a thread cutter button)
Press once. Raise the presser foot, and then remove the fabric.
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
1
1 Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.
• When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.
• Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended.
S-16
Page 71
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Memo
a
Changing the density of the stitching
Adjust the stitch length.
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch length” in the “Basic operations” section.
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.
Changing the stitch width
Adjust the stitch width.
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” in the “Basic operations” section.
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
Select stitch or .
d
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the gimp
e
thread.
Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole lever,
f
and then start sewing.
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp thread to
g
remove any slack.
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp thread to the
h
wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.
S
UTILITY STITCHES
• Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of buttonhole foot
a
“A” shown in the illustration.
It fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.
b
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the machine. Buttons with two or with four holes can be attached.
Measure the distance between the holes in the button
a
to be attached.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the feed dog
b
position switch, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
1 Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
Attach button fitting foot “M”.
c
Sewing S-17
Page 72
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
CAUTION
Memo
Select stitch .
d
(Only on models with (Automatic thread cutting key))
Since the end of the thread will be tied off later, do not set the machine for programmed thread cutting.
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as the
e
distance between the holes in the button.
Place the button in the position where it will be sewn,
f
and lower the presser foot lever.
a
1 Button
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the machine, and then sew them in the same way.
Start sewing.
h
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow).
The machine automatically stops after sewing
reinforcement stitches.
(Only on models with (Thread cutter button))
Do not press .
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin
i
thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to
g
check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
If it seems as if the needle will hit the button, remeasure the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the buttonholes.
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
When you are finished attaching the button, slide the
j
feed dog position switch, to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
• The feed dogs come up when you start sewing again.
S-18
Page 73
1
Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely.
Place the button into button fitting foot “M”, and then
a
pull the shank lever toward you.
1 Shank lever
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread with
b
plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching at the wrong side of the fabric.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
S
UTILITY STITCHES
Cut off any excess thread.
c
Sewing S-19
Page 74
Zipper Insertion
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
1
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
2
1
I
Zipper Insertion
Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of
d
the fabric.
Stitch name Stitch
Straight stitch (Middle)
Stitch number
03
*
Presser foot
J, I
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.
1 Right side of fabric 2 Stitching 3 End of zipper opening
1 Wrong side of fabric
Align the seam with the center of the zipper, and then
e
baste the zipper in place.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Basting stitching 3 Zipper
Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of the
f
basting on the outside.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
b
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of
c
the fabric.
1 Basting stitching 2 Reverse stitches 3 Wrong side of fabric 4 End of zipper opening
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Zipper basting 3 Outside basting 4 5 cm (2 inches)
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper
g
foot “I”.
1 Pin on the right side 2 Needle drop point
S-20
Page 75
Zipper Insertion
CAUTION
CAUTION
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
1
Select stitch .
h
• When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward (
counterclockwise)
to check that the needle
you
does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Topstitch around the zipper.
i
Inserting a side zipper
Stitching is visible on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings.
1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
b
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.
S
UTILITY STITCHES
1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 Basting stitching 4 End of zipper opening
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
Remove the basting stitching.
j
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of
c
the fabric.
1
3
2
4
1 Basting stitching 2 Reverse stitches 3 Wrong side of fabric 4 End of zipper opening
Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of
d
the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
Sewing S-21
Page 76
Zipper Insertion
CAUTION
1
2
2
1
CAUTION
1
Press the seam allowance so that the right side (the side
e
that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 3 mm (1/8 inch)
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of the
f
fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
1 Zipper teeth 2 Basting stitching
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the extra 3
i
mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of
j
the zipper, stop the machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever.
Open the zipper and continue sewing.
k
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper
g
foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.
1
I
2
1 Pin on the right side 2 Needle drop point
Select stitch .
h
• When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (
counterclockwise)
to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then baste
l
the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
1 Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin of
m
zipper foot “I”.
If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in
g, change it to the left pin.
step
1
S-22
I
2
1 Pin on the left side 2 Needle drop point
Page 77
Topstitch around the zipper.
CAUTION
1
2
3
4
5
n
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.
1 Right side of fabric 2 End of zipper opening 3 Reverse stitches 4 Beginning of stitching 5 Basting stitching
Zipper Insertion
S
UTILITY STITCHES
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not
touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of
o
the zipper, stop the machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever.
Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper, and
p
then continue sewing.
Sewing S-23
Page 78
Zipper/piping Insertion
Note
a
CAUTION
Left sewing position
Right sewing position
1
a
Zipper/piping Insertion
A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.
Stitch name Stitch
Straight stitch (Left)
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
**Adjustable zipper/piping foot (sold separately with some
models)
Stitch number
01
***
Inserting a centered zipper
Refer to step af of “Inserting a centered zipper”
a
on page S-20.
Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder to
b
attach the screw-on adjustable zipper/piping foot (sold separately with some models).
• For details on removing the presser foot holder, refer to “Removing and attaching the presser foot holder” in the “Basic operations” section.
Slide the presser foot over to either the left or right
e
feed dog.
Presser foot
Change the needle position so that the needle does not
f
touch the presser foot.
For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” in the “Basic operations” section.
1 Needle drop point
• Make sure that the thread between the spool and the bobbin is pulled tight.
Select stitch .
c
Loosen the positioning screw on the back of the presser
d
foot.
• After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Securely tighten the positioning screw using a
g
screwdriver.
1 Positioning screw
1 Positioning screw
S-24
Page 79
Zipper/piping Insertion
CAUTION
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
Topstitch around the zipper.
h
1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 Basting stitching 4 End of zipper opening
After sewing, turn them over.
d
S
UTILITY STITCHES
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
Remove the basting stitching.
i
Inserting a piping
Place the piping between two layers of fabric, right
a
sides together, as shown below.
1 Fabric 2 Piping 3 Fabric
Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable zipper/
b
piping foot on page S-24.
Sew along the piping.
c
Sewing S-25
Page 80
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
J
CAUTION
1
2
J
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stitch name Stitch
Stem stitch
Stitch number
06
*
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric.
a
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.
Presser foot
2 steps elastic zigzag
stitch
3 steps elastic zigzag
stitch
Tape attaching stitch 42
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
12
11
*
Stretch stitching
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Select stitch .
b
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
c
J
1 Elastic tape 2 Pin
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select a stitch.
c
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while stretching the
d
tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
S-26
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
Page 81
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Memo
Note
1
J
Stitch name Stitch
Zigzag stitch
Stitch number
08
*
Presser foot
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Place a pattern made of thick paper or stabilizer on the
b
back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
Quilting appliqué
zigzag stitch
Blanket stitch 33
Quilting appliqué
stitch
Piecing stitch (Right) 25
Piecing stitch (Middle) 26
Patchwork join stitch 36
Patchwork double
overlock stitch
Couching stitch 38
Hand-look quilting
stitch
Quilting stippling
stitch
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
28
29
37
27
30
S
UTILITY STITCHES
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or fuse it onto the
c
fabric that it will be attached to.
J
1 Basting stitching
• If glue is used to hold the appliqué in place on the fabric, do not apply glue to areas that will be sewn with the machine. If glue adheres to the needle or bobbin case, the machine may be damaged.
• Patterns showing a “Q” in the table above are for quilting and those showing a “P” are for piecing.
Appliqué stitching
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam allowance
a
between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/16 inch).
1 Seam allowance
1
Attach the zigzag foot “J” or the open toe foot (sold
d
separately with some models) shown below.
Zigzag foot “J” Open toe foot
Select a stitch.
e
Sewing S-27
Page 82
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Memo
J
1
1
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise),
f
and then begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.
When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric
a
that you wish to piece together.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned with the
d
edge of the fabric.
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it
a
over the lower piece.
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the pattern
b
spans over both pieces.
For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the
fabric, and sew using stitch .
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, set the stitch width to 1.5 mm and sew using stitch
.
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
• To change the width of the seam allowance (needle position), adjust the stitch width. For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” in the “Basic operations” section.
S-28
Page 83
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
a
b
c
1
Piecing using the 1/4" quilting foot with guide (sold separately with some models)
This quilting foot can sew an accurate 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch seam allowance. It can be used for piecing together a quilt or for topstitching.
Press , and then attach the 1/4” quilting foot with
a
guide.
Use the guide and marks on the presser foot to sew
b
accurate seam allowances.
Piecing a 1/4 inch seam allowance
Sew keeping the edge of the fabrics against the guide.
b
Topstitching quilting, 1/8 inch
Sew with the edge of the fabric aligned with the left side of the presser foot end.
S
UTILITY STITCHES
1 Surface of fabric 2 Seam 3 1/8 inch
Using the 1/4" quilting foot (sold separately with some models)
If the 1/4" quilting foot is used, seams can be sewn with a seam allowance of 6.4 mm (1/4 inch).
a
1 Guide 2 1/4 inch
Creating an accurate seam allowance
Use the mark on the foot to begin, end, or pivot 1/4 inch from edge of fabric.
a
e
b
c
e
d
1 Align this mark with edge of fabric to begin. 2 Beginning of stitching 3 End of stitching 4 Opposite edge of fabric to end or pivot 5 1/4 inch
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric
a
that you wish to piece together.
Attach the 1/4" quilting foot.
b
Select stitch .
c
Align the mark at the upper edge of the 1/4" quilting
d
foot with the upper edge of the fabric.
Align the right edge of the fabric with the right edge of the narrow part of the 1/4" quilting foot.
1
2
1 Mark on 1/4" quilting foot 2 Beginning of stitching
When sewing with a seam allowance, align the left edge of the narrow part of the 1/4" quilting foot with the fabric edge.
1 Seam (3.2 mm (1/8 inch))
Sewing S-29
Page 84
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Note
2
3
1
CAUTION
a
b
Start sewing.
e
When the end of the stitching is reached, stop the
f
machine.
Sew until the mark at the lower edge of the 1/4" quilting foot aligns with the lower edge of the fabric.
1 6.4mm (1/4 inch) 2 End of stitching 3 Mark on 1/4" quilting foot
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot onto the
c
needle clamp screw.
1 Connecting fork 2 Needle clamp screw
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser foot
d
holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.
a
Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the walking foot* and the quilting guide*.
* Sold separately with some models.
• Thread the needle manually when using the walking foot, or attach the walking foot only after threading the needle using the needle threader.
• When quilting, use a 90/14 home sewing machine needle.
• The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with the walking foot.
• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.
• When using the walking foot, test sew on a scrap piece of fabric that is to be used in project.
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
a
1 Presser foot holder screw
• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.
• Before starting to sew, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Select a stitch.
e
Place one hand on each side of the presser foot, and
f
then evenly guide the fabric while sewing.
and
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder.
b
• For details, refer to “Removing and attaching the presser foot holder” in the “Basic operations” section.
S-30
Page 85
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
CAUTION
Note
a
a
b
c
a
b
c
Using the quilting guide (sold separately with some models)
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced.
Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the hole at the
a
rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder.
Walking foot
Presser foot holder
Using free motion open toe quilting foot “O”* or quilting foot*
* Sold separately with some models.
The free motion open toe quilting foot “O” or quilting foot is used for free motion quilting with zigzag or decorative stitches or for free motion quilting of straight lines on fabric with an uneven thickness. Various stitches can be sewn using free motion open toe quilting foot “O”. For details on the stitches that can be used, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” in the “Basic operations” section.
Free motion open
toe quilting foot “O”
Slide the feed dog position switch, located at the rear
a
of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
Quilting foot
S
UTILITY STITCHES
Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that the guide
b
aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.
Free motion quilting
We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a consistent speed. You can adjust the sewing speed with the speed control slide on the machine.
• With free motion quilting, control the feeding speed of the fabric to match the sewing speed. If the fabric is moved faster than the sewing speed, the needle may break or other damage may result.
1 Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
The feed dogs are lowered.
Select a stitch.
b
Remove the presser foot holder.
c
• For details, refer to “Removing and attaching the presser foot holder” in the “Basic operations” section.
Attach the quilting foot by positioning the pin of the
d
quilting foot above the needle clamp screw and aligning the lower-left of the quilting foot and the presser bar.
1 Pin 2 Needle clamp screw 3 Presser bar
• Make sure that the quilting foot is not slanted.
Sewing S-31
Page 86
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
CAUTION
Memo
J
Memo
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand,
e
and tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver with your left hand.
1 Presser foot holder screw
• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the included screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the quilting foot, causing it to bend or break.
Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then
f
move the fabric at a consistent pace in order to sew uniform stitches roughly 2.0 mm - 2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 inch - 3/32 inch) in length.
Press to turn on the stitch width control function.
c
The machine is now set so that the stitch width can
be controlled with the sewing speed controller.
1 Stitch
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog position
g
switch lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
• Do not be discouraged with your initial results.
The technique requires practice.
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller
A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width of a satin stitch. If the machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted with the foot controller.
Connect the foot controller.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
d
While sewing, slide the sewing speed controller to
e
adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make the width wider.
Narrower Wider
• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot controller.
When you are finished sewing, press to turn off
f
the stitch width control function.
S-32
• Although the stitching result differs depending on the type of fabric being sewn and the thickness of the thread being used, for best results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).
Page 87
Reinforcement Stitching
J
a
Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Stitch name Stitch
Triple stretch stitch
Bar tack stitch 67
Darning stitch
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Stitch number
*
05
65
66
J
A
Triple stretch stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes and inseams.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Presser foot
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
a
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
2
3
1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of bar tack 3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1–1/8 inches) can be sewn.
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Position the fabric so that the opening of the pocket
d
faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.
S
UTILITY STITCHES
Select stitch .
b
Start sewing.
c
Bar tack stitching
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below.
1
1 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size.
1 Do not reduce the gap.
Sewing S-33
Page 88
Reinforcement Stitching
Memo
a
2
1
1
2
4
3
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.
e
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
Darning
1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left
f
hand, and then start sewing.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, and
g
then cut the threads.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.
h
• If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Setting the stitch length” in the “Basic operations” section.
1 Reinforcement stitching
Determine the desired length of the darning.
a
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of darning 3 5 mm (3/16 inch) 4 7 mm (1/4 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) can be sewn.
Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
S-34
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
b
Select stitch or .
c
Page 89
Reinforcement Stitching
a
a
Memo
Position the fabric so that the needle is 2 mm (1/16
d
inch) in front of the area to be darned.
1
2
1 Tear 2 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, and
g
then cut the threads.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.
h
• If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Setting the stitch length” in the “Basic operations” section.
S
UTILITY STITCHES
1 Do not reduce the gap.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.
e
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left
f
hand, and then start sewing.
Sewing S-35
Page 90
Eyelet Stitching
1
2
3
Memo
Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn.
Stitch name Stitch
Eyelet stitch 69 N
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
a
Select stitch .
b
Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch length to
c
select the desired eyelet size.
1 7 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) 2 6 mm (approx. 15/64 inch) 3 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
Stitch number
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” and “Setting the stitch length” in the “Basic operations” section.
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the center of the
f
eyelet.
Presser foot
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.
• If thin thread is used, the stitching may be too open. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice before removing the fabric, one on top of the other.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the
d
stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.
Start sewing.
e
Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
S-36
Page 91
Decorative Stitching
J
The utility stitches contain the following decorative stitches.
Stitch name Stitch
Patchwork join stitch 36
Patchwork double
overlock stitch
Couching stitch 38
Shell tuck edge stitch 34
Stitch number
37
J
Decorative Stitching
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
Presser foot
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric along their
a
seams.
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by about 4
b
mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water­soluble stabilizer.
If you draw a line down the middle of the thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is easier.
3
S
UTILITY STITCHES
Smocking stitch 39
Feather stitch 40
Fagoting cross stitch 41
Satin scallop stitch 35
48
50
Hemstitching
52
56
Ladder stitch 43
Rick-rack stitch 44
Decorative stitch 45
Serpentine stitch 46 N
1
2
1 Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer 2 Basting stitching 3 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
N
Select stitch or .
d
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
J
e
Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along
f
the center of the two pieces of fabric.
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
g
Sewing S-37
Page 92
Decorative Stitching
J
1
Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeated pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of projects.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
a
Select stitch .
b
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure not to
c
sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm (3/8 inch).
c
1 1 cm (3/8 inch)
• Do not use reverse/reinforcement stitching or thread cutting.
• At the end of the stitching, the thread is pulled out about 5 cm (2 inches).
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
d
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
• For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn.
Trim along the stitches.
d
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Select stitch , or .
e
Stitch between the straight stitches.
f
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
g
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the stitch
b
length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch length” and “Setting the thread tension” in the “Basic operations” section.
• For details, refer to “Pulling up the bobbin thread” in the “Basic operations” section.
S-38
Page 93
Decorative Stitching
J
1
J
1
1
2
3
a
Shell tuck stitching
The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
Fold the fabric along the bias.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch , and then increase the thread tension.
c
Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly
d
off the edge of the fabric.
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces of fabric,
b
and then open up the seam allowances.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 7 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance 3 Straight stitch
Select stitch , or .
c
S
UTILITY STITCHES
1 Needle drop point
Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks down to one
e
side.
Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces up, and
d
then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.
1 Right side of fabric
Sewing S-39
Page 94
Decorative Stitching
CAUTION
N
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics.
Install the wing needle.
a
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the Needle” in the “Basic operations” section.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back. For details, refer to “Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)” in the “Basic operations” section.
Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”. This gives beautiful results with fabrics that have a loose weave.
The procedure for creating drawnwork is described below.
Drawnwork
Pull out several threads from two sections of the fabric,
a
separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Select a stitch.
c
The stitches that can be used are , , or .
• When sewing with the wing needle, select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less.
Start sewing.
d
1
1 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
d
• When sewing with the wing needle, select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (
counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
S-40
Page 95
Decorative
CAUTION
sewing
This section provides instructions on sewing character stitches and decorative stitches as well as on adjusting and editing them. Page number starts with “D” in this section.
The screen display and machine illustration may vary slightly, depending on the machine model.
Chapter1 CHARACTER / DECORATIVE STITCHES................ D-2
• Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the machine, otherwise injuries may
occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts operating. For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the Presser Foot” in the “Basic operations” section.
Page 96
Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns
Chapter 1
DECORATIVE STITCHES
Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns
When selecting a character stitch
Selecting stitch patterns
CHARACTER /
This machine is equipped with the decorative stitches and character stitches.
When selecting a decorative stitch
The category contains the following four types of stitches:
• Decorative stitches:
• Satin stitches:
• 7 mm satin stitches:
• Cross stitch stitches:
Press .
a
a
Press repeatedly to display the icon of the desired font.
• Each time the is pressed, it changes the font in the following order.
...
Icon Font
Gothic
Handwriting
Outline
Japanese
is displayed on the LCD screen.
Enter the number of the desired stitch using numeric
b
keys, and then press .
• For number of each stitch, refer to the Quick Reference Guide.
• Depending on the stitch number, the stitch may be selected without pressing .
• When using one-digit numbers and it is entered
incorrectly, press to erase the entered number.
The number for the selected stitch appears in the
LCD.
The icon for the selected font appears in the LCD.
Enter the number of the desired character stitch using
b
numeric keys.
• For number of each stitch, refer to the Quick Reference Guide, and then press .
• Depending on the stitch number, the stitch may be selected without pressing .
• When a digit is incorrectly pressed, press to erase the entered number.
The number for the selected stitch appears on the
LCD.
D-2
Page 97
Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns
Memo
Note
Deleting a pattern
To remove a selected pattern, press on the operation panel.
The selected pattern is removed.
Sewing attractive finishes
To achieve attractive results when sewing character/decorative stitches, check the table below for the proper fabric/thread/needle combinations.
• Other factors, such as fabric thickness, stabilizer material, etc., also have an effect on the stitch, so you should always sew a few trial stitches before beginning your project.
• It may be necessary to adjust the pattern, depending on the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed. Adjust the pattern while sewing trial stitches on a scrap piece of fabric that is the same as what is used in your project. Refer to “Realigning the pattern” on page D-7.
• When sewing satin stitch patterns, there may be shrinking or bunching of stitches, so be sure to attach a stabilizer material.
• Guide the fabric with your hand to keep the fabric feeding straight and even during sewing.
Fabric When sewing on stretch fabrics, lightweight
fabrics, or fabrics with coarse weaves, attach stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric. An alternative would be to place the fabric on thin paper such as tracing paper.
D
CHARACTER / DECORATIVE STITCHES
• If a new pattern is selected without deleting the previously selected one, the first and second patterns are combined. (Refer to “Combining patterns” on page D-5.)
• If two patterns or more have been already selected, the pattern that was selected last is removed.
• You can delete the entire combined pattern by
pressing .
1 Fabric 2 Stabilizer 3 Thin paper
Thread #50 - #60
Needle With lightweight, regular, or stretch fabrics: the Ball
point needle (golden colored) 90/14 With heavyweight fabrics: home sewing machine needle 90/14
Presser foot Monogramming foot “N”.
Using zigzag foot “J” or other presser feet may give inferior results.
Twin needle You can sew with twin needle (2/11) when you
select 7 mm satin stitch pattern. In this case, use zigzag foot “J”.
Decorative sewing D-3
Page 98
Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns
Memo
Memo
Note
Basic sewing
Select a decorative/character stitch pattern.
a
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Place the fabric under the presser foot, pull the upper
c
thread out to the side, press (Needle position button) to lower needle into fabric and then lower the presser foot.
• When sewing character stitches, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of each character.
• When sewing is completed, trim any excess thread between letters.
Press the “Start/Stop” button to begin sewing.
d
• If the fabric is pulled or pushed during sewing, the pattern may not turn out correctly. Guide the fabric with your hand to keep the fabric feeding straight and even during sewing.
Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop sewing.
e
Press (Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement
f
stitch button) to sew reinforcement stitches.
• When sewing some patterns, the needle will temporarily pause in the raised position while the fabric is fed due to the operation of the needle bar separation mechanism which is used in this machine. At such times, a clicking sound different from the sound generated during sewing will be heard. This sound is normal and is not the sign of a malfunction.
D-4
Page 99
Combining patterns
b
a
c
Memo
You can sew names, etc., by combining character stitches. Character stitches and decorative stitches can also be combined.
Example:
Selecting stitches:
Stitch pattern Category Stitch number
13
L12
E5
A1
F6
13
Press to display “ ”.
a
Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns
Use the numeric keys to enter “5”, and then press .
e
And add “A” (No. 1) and “F” (No. 6).
Press to display “ ”.
f
Use the numeric keys to enter “13”.
g
D
CHARACTER / DECORATIVE STITCHES
Use the numeric keys to enter “13”.
b
1 Stitch number 2 Position number 3 Total number
Press to display “ ”.
c
Use the numeric keys to enter “12”.
d
• To remove a selected pattern, press on the operation panel. The pattern that was selected last is removed.
After combining the patterns, check the entered
h
characters and their order before stitching.
• For details, refer to “Checking the selected pattern” on page D-6.
After all of the desired patterns are selected, start
i
sewing.
The order in which the patterns are selected is the
order that they will be sewn.
• Up to 70 patterns can be combined.
• If multiple patterns have been combined, the sewing machine stops once all the selected patterns displayed in the LCD have been sewn. To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, refer to “Repeating combined patterns” on page D-6.
• The combined pattern can be stored for later use. For details, refer to “Saving a pattern” on page D-6.
• You can delete all patterns being combined by
pressing while combining patterns.
• If you mistakenly press while combining
patterns, press or , and then enter “00” by using the numeric key. You can retrieve the
patterns that you combined before you pressed
. If necessary, save the retrieved pattern in the
machine's memory. For details, refer to “Saving a pattern” on page D-6.
Decorative sewing D-5
Page 100
Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns
Memo
e
d
a
c
b
e
d
a
c
b
Note
Memo
Checking the selected pattern
You can check the combined patterns.
Press the “-” or “+” key, and confirm the pattern.
a
• You can check the stitch number and the order of the patterns.
on the LCD screen turns to , and you can
now sew the specified pattern repeatedly.
If pressed again, it turns to (single sewing), and
machine will stop sewing at end of combined patterns.
• If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is stopped.
• If the sewing machine is turned off, the repeated/single sewing setting returns to its default setting.
Saving a pattern
Combined patterns can be stored for later use. Since stored patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is turned off, they can be recalled at any time. Only one pattern combination can be stored.
1 Stitch number 2 Category 3 Total number 4 Position number 5 Pattern check keys
• The combined pattern can be stored for later use. For details, refer to “Saving a pattern” on page D-6.
Repeating combined patterns
When multiple stitch patterns are combined, the sewing machine will stop stitching after the last entered pattern number appears on screen has completed sewing. Use the following operations to sew a combined pattern repeatedly.
After the patterns have been combined, press .
a
Create the combined pattern that you wish to store.
a
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns” on page D-5.
Press on the operation panel.
b
• Do not turn off the sewing machine while the pattern is being stored, otherwise the pattern data may be lost.
• When a pattern is saved in the machine where an existing pattern is already saved, the stitch is overwritten.
• Once the pattern has been saved in pocket, it can not be deleted without overwriting. When you wish to clear saved pattern, press without selecting a pattern.
D-6
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