Brother CS-8120, CS-8130 Operation Manual

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S3_BrotherE_cover

DIC181p

English

885-S08

XC5252-021

Printed in China

S3_brotherE.book Page A Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Enclosed Accessories

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your retailer.

Accessories

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

● Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model CS-8150.

● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: XA4813-051)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.

* 75/11 2 needles

90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)

No. Part Name

1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-051 14 Screwdriver XC4237-021 2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-051 15 Spool cap (large) 130012-054 3 Monogramming foot “N” X53840-351 16 Spool cap (small) 130013-154 4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-051 17 Extra spool pin XC3834-021 5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-051 18 Spool net XA5523-050 6 Blind stitch foot “R” XC4051-051 19 Foot controller XC1154-021 7 Button fitting foot “M” X59375-151 20 Thread cassette (on machine) XC3664-021

8 Seam ripper X54243-001 21

9 Bobbin (4) SA156 XA5539-151 22 Needle-changing tool XC4551-021

10 Needle set X58358-051 23 Operation manual XC5252-021

11 Twin needle X59296-051 24 Quick reference guide

12 Cleaning brush X59476-051 25 Spool cap (special) XA5752-021 13 Eyelet punch 135793-051

Part Code

U.S.A. Others U.S.A. Others

No. Part Name

Spool cap (orange) (on machine)

Part Code

XC3673-021

XC5256-021,

XC5257-021

Cover A

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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Front view

1 2

1 Thread cassette compartment cover

2 Thread cassette compartment

Insert a thread cassette into the thread cassette compartment.

3 Thread cassette eject lever

Press this lever to eject the installed thread cassette.

4 Thread tension dial

Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the upper thread.

5 Thread cutter

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

6 Arm

7 Flap

Use the flap to create a table. When the sewing machine is not being used, store the machine with the flap folded up. Remove the flap to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.

8 Sliding leg

Pull out the sliding leg during free-arm sewing.

C B

9 Operation buttons

Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine and raise and lower the needle. (page Cover D)

0 Operation panel

Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation panel. (page Cover E)

A Bobbin winder

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

B Bobbin thread spool pin

Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto this spool pin in order to wind the bobbin.

C Bobbin storage compartment

Store the bobbins designed specifically for this sewing machine in this compartment.

D Bobbin winder cover

Open this cover when winding the bobbin.

E Thread guide for bobbin winding

Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread.

Cover B

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———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

Needle and presser foot section

1 Buttonhole lever

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.

2 Needle bar thread hook

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread hook.

3 Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams.

4 Bobbin cover/shuttle

Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin into the shuttle.

5 Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

6 Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching.

7 Presser foot holder

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

Right-side/rear view

1 Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.

2 Balance wheel

Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch.

3 Main power switch

Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine on and off.

4 Power supply jack

Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power supply jack.

5 Foot controller jack

Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.

6 Air vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.

7 Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.

Memo

● Refer to Cover B, D or E pages while you are learning to use your machine.

Cover C

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Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

1 Thread cassette indicator

The indicator lights up or goes off depending on the condition of the sewing machine.

Green: A thread cassette can be inserted. Red: A thread cassette cannot be inserted. Off: The sewing machine has been turned off

or a thread cassette is already inserted.

2 Thread cutter button (Only for models equipped

with the thread cutter button)

Press the thread cutter button after stopping sewing to cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).

3 Needle position button

Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

4 Start/stop button

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51).

5 Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

7 Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.

CAUTION

● Do not press the thread cutter button after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

Note

● Do not press the thread cutter button if there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.

● When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon thread or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine. For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).

6 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 53).

Cover D

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Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.

17345

6892

1 LCD (liquid crystal display)

Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys 2 through 9, described below, to display various items and select the settings. For details, refer to “Understanding the LCD Screens” (page 12).

2 Sewing machine help key

Press this key to display operation information. Simple descriptions on threading the upper thread, installing the bobbin, winding the bobbin and replacing the presser foot can be displayed.

3 Stitch selection key

Press this key to select the desired type of stitch.

4 key

Press this key to add a pattern when sewing combinations of decorative stitches.

5 key

Press this key to remove an added pattern when sewing combinations of decorative stitches.

6 Arrow keys

Use these keys to move in the indicated direction when selecting an item displayed on the screen. In addition,

can be pressed to select a lower setting and can be pressed to select a higher setting.

7 OK key

Press this key to apply the selected item.

8 Back key

Press this key to return to the previous screen.

9 Settings key

Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching, or other settings such as the operation beep.

Cover E

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———————————————————————————————————————————————————Enclosed Accessories

Optional Accessories

The following are available as optional accessories.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5.

1. Side cutter

Part code: SA177, XC3879-002

2. Quilting guide

Part code: SA132, XC2215-002

3. Guide foot

Part code: SA133, XC1957-002

4. Walking foot

Part code: SA140, XC2214-002

5. Quilting foot

Part code: SA129, XC1948-002

Memo

● To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized service center.

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Introduction

Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 6), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.

Sewing Machine Features

1 Thread cassette

Easily thread the upper thread by loading a spool of thread into the thread cassette. In addition, simply insert the thread cassette into the compartment to thread the needle. (page 25)

2 Simple bobbin-winding

The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 18)

3 Built-in stitches

You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches. (page 66)

4 One-touch lower threading

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 22)

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Contents

Enclosed Accessories ................................................................................................ Cover A

Accessories .............................................................................................................................................Cover A

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions .......................................................... Cover B

Front view ...............................................................................................................................................Cover B

Needle and presser foot section ..............................................................................................................Cover C

Right-side/rear view ................................................................................................................................Cover C

Operation buttons .................................................................................................................................. Cover D

Operation panel ...................................................................................................................................... Cover E

Optional Accessories ...........................................................................................................1

Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 2

Sewing Machine Features .................................................................................................... 2

Contents ..............................................................................................................................3

Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................6

GETTING READY ..............................................................................................9

Turning the Machine On/Off ............................................................................................. 10

Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 10

Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11

Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11

Understanding the LCD Screens ........................................................................................ 12

Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................ 13

Changing the Machine Settings ......................................................................................... 14

Changing the settings ......................................................................................................................................14

Changing the needle stop position .................................................................................................................. 16

Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ................................................................................................................ 16

Changing the screen language ......................................................................................................................... 17

Winding/Installing the Bobbin ........................................................................................... 18

Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 18

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 18

Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 22

Upper Threading ............................................................................................................... 24

About the spool of thread ................................................................................................................................ 24

Loading the spool into the thread cassette ....................................................................................................... 25

Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 28

Using the extra spool pin ................................................................................................................................30

Thread the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ..................................................................... 31

Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 32

Pulling up the bobbin thread ...........................................................................................................................35

Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................36

Needle precautions .........................................................................................................................................36

Needle types and their uses ............................................................................................................................. 36

Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 37

Replacing the needle .......................................................................................................................................38

Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................41

Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 41

Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 41

Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 43

Using the optional walking foot ......................................................................................................................44

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces .................................................................................................. 46

Free-arm sewing .............................................................................................................................................. 46

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

SEWING BASICS .............................................................................................47

Sewing ............................................................................................................................... 48

General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 49

Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 50

Starting to sew .................................................................................................................................................51

Securing the stitching ......................................................................................................................................53

Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 55

Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................ 56

Changing the tension of the upper thread ........................................................................................................ 56

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length .............................................................................. 57

Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 57

Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 58

Useful Functions ................................................................................................................59

Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ....................................................................................... 59

Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 61

Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 61

Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 61

Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 61

Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 62

Sewing thin fabrics .......................................................................................................................................... 63

Sewing stretch fabrics ......................................................................................................................................63

Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 63

UTILITY STITCHES ..........................................................................................65

Selecting Stitching ............................................................................................................. 66

Stitch types ...................................................................................................................................................... 66

Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 66

Overcasting Stitches .......................................................................................................... 68

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ...................................................................................68

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” ............................................................................................. 69

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 70

Basic Stitching ................................................................................................................... 72

Basting ............................................................................................................................................................ 72

Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 72

Blind Hem Stitching .......................................................................................................... 74

Buttonhole Stitching .......................................................................................................... 76

Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 77

Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................80

Zipper Insertion ................................................................................................................. 82

Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 82

Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................83

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................ 86

Stretch stitching ............................................................................................................................................... 86

Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 86

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................88

Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 89

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 90

Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 90

Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 91

Free-motion quilting ........................................................................................................................................ 92

Satin stitching .................................................................................................................................................. 94

Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................... 95

Triple stretch stitching ..................................................................................................................................... 95

Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 95

Darning ........................................................................................................................................................... 97

Eyelet Stitching .................................................................................................................. 99

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Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................ 100

Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................ 101

Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 102

Smocking ...................................................................................................................................................... 102

Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 103

Joining .......................................................................................................................................................... 104

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................105

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns .............................................................108

Sewing beautiful patterns .............................................................................................................................. 108

Sewing patterns ............................................................................................................................................. 108

Combining patterns ....................................................................................................................................... 109

Repeat sewing patterns .................................................................................................................................. 110

Checking the selected pattern ....................................................................................................................... 111

Changing the pattern length .......................................................................................................................... 111

Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 112

Storing a pattern ............................................................................................................................................ 113

Realigning the pattern ................................................................................................................................... 114

APPENDIX .....................................................................................................117

Stitch Settings .................................................................................................................. 118

Utility stitches ...............................................................................................................................................118

Other stitches ................................................................................................................................................ 123

Maintenance ....................................................................................................................124

Cleaning the machine surface .......................................................................................................................124

Cleaning the shuttle ...................................................................................................................................... 124

Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................126

Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 130

Nothing appears in the LCD .......................................................................................................................... 131

Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 131

Cancelling the operation beep ...................................................................................................................... 132

Index ............................................................................................................................... 133

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Important Safety Instructions

When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:

Read all instructions before using.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “{” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch the machine to the symbol “{” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.

17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.

18. If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT

If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug.

NOTE

The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.

The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code:

Blue Neutral

Brown Live

As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.

The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or colored black or blue.

The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or colored red or brown.

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE

Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE

For safe operation

1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts.

2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:

• Operation is completed

• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts

• A power failure occurs during use

• Maintaining the machine

• Leaving the machine unattended

3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.

4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

For a longer service life

1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

3. Do not drop or hit the machine.

4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

For repair or adjustment

In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com

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1 GETTING READY

The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.

Turning the Machine On/Off .................................................................................10

Understanding the LCD Screens ............................................................................. 12

Changing the Machine Settings ..............................................................................14

Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...............................................................................18

Upper Threading ....................................................................................................24

Replacing the Needle .............................................................................................36

Replacing the Presser Foot .....................................................................................41

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces....................................................................................... 46

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Turning the Machine On/Off

This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING

●

Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

CAUTION

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to

them. Fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to

remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,

or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a

fire may result.

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Turning on the machine

Make sure that the sewing machine is turned

off (the main power switch is set to “O”), and then plug the power supply cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.

Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a

household electrical outlet.

1 Power supply jack

Press the right side of the main power switch

on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).

Turning off the machine

When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.

Make sure that the machine is not sewing.

Press the left side of the main power switch on

the right side of the machine (set it to “{”).

X The sewing lamp goes off when the

machine is turned off.

Unplug the power supply cord from the

electrical outlet.

Grasp the plug when unplugging the power supply cord.

Unplug the power supply cord from the

power supply jack.

X The sewing lamp comes on when the

machine is turned on.

Fold the flap at the front of the sewing

machine down toward you.

Note

● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A only)

● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Turning the Machine On/Off 11

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Understanding the LCD Screens

The LCD screen, located on the front of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly. When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.

4 5

1 Presser foot that should be used 2 Single or twin needle 3 Selected stitch 4 Stitch length (mm) 5 Stitch width (mm)

Memo

● For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error messages” (page 130).

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Checking machine operating procedures

Simple descriptions on replacing the presser foot, threading the upper thread, winding the bobbin and installing the bobbin can be displayed in the LCD.

Turn on the sewing machine.

X The LCD comes on.

Press (sewing machine help key) in the

operation panel.

When you are finished with the help screen,

press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Note

● For details on each topic, refer to the corresponding page in this Operation Manual.

X The sewing machine help screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

the image illustrating desired topic is selected.

1 Replacing the presser foot 2 Threading the upper thread 3 Winding the bobbin 4 Installing the bobbin

Press (OK key).

X The first screen describing the procedure for

the selected topic appears.

To display the next screen, press . To

return to the previous screen, press .

 Example: Upper threading

Understanding the LCD Screens 13

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Changing the Machine Settings

Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.

Press (OK key).

Changing the settings

The general procedure for changing machine settings is described below.

Turn on the sewing machine.

X The LCD comes on.

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Press (settings key) in the operation

panel.

X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

the stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set is selected.

Press (OK key).

X A screen containing settings for the selected

attribute appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

the desired setting is selected.

X The setting is changed.

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■ List of stitch or machine attributes

The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the corresponding reference page.

Attribute Icon Details Reference

Automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching

Specifies automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching. page 59

Check pattern

Left/right mirror imaging

Pattern length

Repeated/ single sewing

Needle position

Twin needle sewing

Stitch width control

Language

Buzzer

LCD brightness

Vertical pattern adjustment

Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 109

Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 112

Adjusts the length of satin stitches. page 111

Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or repeatedly.

Specifies where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped.

Specifies the twin needle. page 32

Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller.

Allows the language used in the screens to be changed.

Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each operation.

Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. page 16

Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. page 114

page 110

page 16

page 94

page 17

page 130

Changing the Machine Settings 15

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Changing the needle stop position

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.

Press (settings key) in the operation

panel, and then press , , and (arrow keys) until is selected.

Press (OK key).

X The screen for changing the needle stop

position appears.

Press to select .

To return to , press .

Adjusting the brightness of the LCD

The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.

Press (settings key) in the operation

panel, and then press , , and (arrow keys) until is selected.

Press (OK key).

X The screen for changing the brightness of

the LCD appears.

To make the LCD brighter, press (–). To

make the LCD darker, press (+).

X The brightness of the LCD is changed.

X The machine is now set to stop with the

needle in the raised position.

Press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

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Changing the screen language

The language used in the screens that are displayed can be changed to one of the many available.

Press (settings key) in the operation

panel, and then press , , and (arrow keys) until is selected.

Press (OK key).

X The screen for changing the language of the

screens appears.

Press or until the desired language is

selected.

The language can be changed to one of the available: English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Italian, Danish, Norwegian, Finnish, Swedish, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Korean or others.

X The language of the screens is changed.

Press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Changing the Machine Settings 17

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.

Bobbin precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.

CAUTION

● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing

machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

● The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older

models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Older model

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.

Turn on the sewing machine.

Open the bobbin winder cover at the top on

the right side of the sewing machine.

Swing up the bobbin thread spool pin.

Move the bobbin thread spool pin up as far as possible.

1 Bobbin thread spool pin

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin.

1 Notch 2 Bobbin winder shaft spring

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Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto

the bobbin thread spool pin.

Slide the spool cap onto the bobbin thread

spool pin.

With the rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the bobbin thread spool pin as far as possible until the right side of the spool touches the right end of the bobbin thread spool pin.

CAUTION

● Two spool cap sizes are available,

allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break.

Note

● If a spool of thread 12 mm (1/2 inch) in diameter and 75 mm (3 inch) high is inserted onto the bobbin thread spool pin, use the special spool cap.

1 12 mm (1/2 inch) 2 75 mm (3 inch)

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 19

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

While using your left hand to hold the end of

Memo

● When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the enclosed spool net over

the thread that wraps around the thread guide for bobbin winding, use your right hand to wind the free end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.

the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool.

1 Spool net 2 Spool 3 Spool pin 4 Spool cap

Pull out some thread, and then thread the

thread guide for bobbin winding.

Hold the thread with both hands, and then securely pass the thread as far as possible into the two slits in the thread guide.

Pull the thread to the right and pass it through

the slit in the bobbin winder seat.

1 Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

CAUTION

● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If

the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

(so that the speed will be fast).

1 Thread guide for bobbin winding 2 Two slits

1 Sewing speed controller

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Press (start/stop button) once.

1 Start/stop button

X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is

wound around the bobbin.

X The bobbin spins slowly when it is full.

When the bobbin begins spinning slowly,

Press (start/stop button) once.

X The sewing machine stops.

Use scissors to cut the end of the thread

wound around the bobbin.

Remove the spool cap and spool.

Swing down the bobbin thread spool pin,

close the bobbin winder cover, and then slide the sewing speed controller back to its original position.

Memo

● When the sewing machine is started or the balance wheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.

Remove the bobbin from the shaft.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 21

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Remove the bobbin cover.

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

Hold the bobbin with your right hand and

hold the end of the thread with your left.

CAUTION

Use a bobbin thread that has been

●

correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.

Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the

thread unrolls to the left.

● The bobbin was designed specifically for

this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Older model

• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.

Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right

hand, and then guide the thread as shown with your left hand.

Memo

● The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the needle plate is indicated by marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.

1 Bobbin cover 2 Latch

X The bobbin cover opens.

CAUTION

● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with

your finger and unroll the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

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Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and

then pull the thread out toward the front.

1 Cutter

X The cutter cuts the thread.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

X The lower threading is finished.

Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in “Upper Threading” (on the next page).

Memo

● You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 35).

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Upper Threading

In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described.

CAUTION

● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is

not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.

When using the extra spool pin, attach either the

About the spool of thread

With this sewing machine, a spool of thread can be loaded into the enclosed thread cassette, and then the thread cassette can be threaded. Information about the spools of thread is described below.

■ Spools that can be loaded into the thread cassette

Normally, a spool of thread is loaded into the thread cassette and used. The spools that can be loaded must have a diameter smaller than the orange spool cap and a height shorter than the mark on the cover of the thread cassette.

large or small white spool cap, depending on the size of the spool. Use the spool cap with a diameter that is slightly larger than the diameter of the spool.

1 Spool cap (large) 2 Spool cap (small) 3 Spool

1 Spool cap (orange) 2 Spool 3 Mark on thread cassette compartment cover

■ Spools that cannot be loaded into the thread cassette

When using spools that cannot be loaded into the thread cassette, use the enclosed extra spool pin.

Memo

● For details on using the extra spool pin, refer to “Using the extra spool pin” (page 30).

● When using a spool of cross-wound thread, install the small white spool cap with some space between the cap and the spool.

1 Spool cap (small) 2 Gap 3 Spool

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CAUTION

Two spool cap sizes are available,

●

Loading the spool into the thread cassette

Load the spool of thread into the enclosed thread cassette to prepare the upper thread.

Memo

● The order for threading the thread cassette is indicated on the thread cassette. Also check the markings on the thread cassette while threading it.

Turn on the sewing machine.

Open the thread cassette compartment cover

at the top on the left side of the machine.

Upper Threading 25

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Push the thread cassette eject lever on the left

side of the machine toward the back.

1 Thread cassette eject lever

X The thread cassette is raised.

• If the sewing machine is turned off, the thread cassette will not be ejected correctly.

Remove the thread cassette.

Place the spool for the upper thread onto the

spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the thread unwinds from the left, as seen from the top.

1 Spool

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

With the rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the top, slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible until the down side of the spool touches the down end of the spool pin.

Pull the cover of the thread cassette out

toward you, and then pull off the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.

1 Spool cap (orange) 2 Spool pin 3 Cover

• Only the orange spool cap should be placed on the spool pin in the thread cassette.

CAUTION

● If the spool or the spool cap is not

positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.

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While holding the end of the thread with your

right hand and the thread cassette with your left hand, close the cover.

Pass the thread through the slit in the top of

the thread cassette.

Follow arrow 2 indicated on the thread cassette.

• When using special thread such as metallic thread, use the thumb of your left hand to press down on the area indicated in the illustration to create an opening that allows for easier threading.

1 Push 2 Gap

Pass the thread along the bottom of the thread

cassette.

Follow arrow 4 indicated on the thread cassette.

Pull the thread to the left and pass it through

the slit along the left side of the thread cassette.

Follow arrow 3 indicated on the thread cassette.

Pass the thread through the notch in the

lower-right corner of the thread cassette, and then pull the thread to the left.

Follow arrow 5 indicated on the thread cassette.

1 Notch

Upper Threading 27

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Pull the thread under the disc at the front in

the lower-left corner and around to the right,

Threading the needle

and then cut the thread with the cutter.

Follow arrow 6 indicated on the thread cassette.

In this section, the procedures for installing the thread cassette and threading the needle are described. The needle threader is used to thread the needle at the same time that the thread cassette is inserted.

Memo

● The needle threader can be used with

sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.

● Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or less

cannot be used with the needle threader.

● The needle threader cannot be used with

the wing needle or the twin needle.

● If the needle threader cannot be used, refer

to “Threading the needle manually” (page 31).

1 Disc 2 Cutter

X The spool of thread is now loaded in the

thread cassette.

Note

● Be sure to cut the thread as described above, otherwise the needle threader cannot be used to thread the needle.

Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit

up in green.

1 Thread cassette indicator

If the thread cassette indicator is lit up in red, the needle has not been raised to the correct

position. Press (needle position button)

once to raise the needle.

1 Needle position button

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• If the needle is not raised to the correct

position, the needle cannot be threaded with the needle threader. Be sure to check that the thread cassette indicator is lit up in green before inserting the thread cassette.

Insert the thread cassette into the thread

cassette compartment.

Slowly press down on the thread cassette until it clicks into place.

1 Needle bar thread hook

X At the same time that the thread cassette is

inserted, the needle is threaded.

X The thread cassette indicator goes off.

• If the needle could not be threaded or the thread was not passed through the needle bar thread hook, refer to “Loading the spool into the thread cassette” (page 25) and perform the procedure again starting from step

1 Push here

CAUTION

● The needle threader is operated when the

needle is threaded. Be sure to keep your hands and other items away from the needle, otherwise injuries may occur.

Raise the presser foot lever, carefully pull on

the loop of thread passed through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.

Pass the thread through the presser foot, and

then pull out about 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

1 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch)

X The upper threading is finished.

Upper Threading 29

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Close the thread cassette compartment cover.

Using the extra spool pin

When using spools with a size that cannot be loaded into the thread cassette, use the enclosed extra spool pin.

X Now that the upper threading and the lower

threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.

Note

Place the spool of thread onto the extra spool

pin.

● When inserting the thread cassette into its compartment, slowly press it down.

● If the sewing machine could not be threaded, try performing the procedure again starting from loading the spool of thread into the thread cassette.

1 Extra spod pin 2 Spool

Slide the spool cap for the size of the spool

onto the spool pin.

1 Spool cap

• For more details, refer to “About the spool of thread” (page 24).

Insert the tabs on the extra spool pin into the

holes on the top of the thread cassette.

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Thread the thread cassette with the thread

from the spool on the extra spool pin.

Thread the needle manually (without using the needle threader)

When using special thread, thread with a thickness of 130/20 or less, the wing needle or the twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.

Remove the needle.

• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 38).

• When using the wing needle, the twin

needle or thread that cannot be used with the needle threader, be sure to remove the needle, otherwise the machine may be damaged.

• For more details, refer to “Loading the spool into the thread cassette” (page 25).

Insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool

pin attached) into the thread cassette compartment.

Use both hands to press down on both sides of the extra spool pin.

X At the same time that the thread cassette is

inserted, the needle is threaded.

X The extra spool pin is now installed.

Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit

up in green, and then insert the thread cassette into the thread cassette compartment.

• For details, refer to (page 28).

X Pass the thread through the needle bar

thread hook.

1 Needle bar thread hook

Install a needle.

• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 38).

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle

from front to back.

1 through 2

Upper Threading 31

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Load the spool for the second thread color

Using the twin needle

onto the extra spool pin.

Using the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different colors. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the enclosed twin needle and the extra spool pin. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

CAUTION

Only use the twin needle (Part code :

●

X59296-051). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can

easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Do not try installing the twin needle

while the thread cassette is not installed, otherwise the needle may break or damage to the machine may result.

• For more details, refer to steps in “Using the extra spool pin” (page 30).

Use the two threads to thread the thread

cassette, and then cut the threads.

Thread the thread cassette along arrows 3 through 6, indicated on the thread cassette.

1 through 4

Remove the needle.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the Needle” (page 36).

Load the spool for the first thread color into

the thread cassette.

Thread the thread cassette up to arrow 2, indicated on the thread cassette.

• For more details, refer to steps in “Loading the spool into the thread cassette” (page 25).

1 through 9

• For more details, refer to steps

0 through c

in “Loading the spool into the thread cassette” (page 25).

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Insert the thread cartridge (with the extra

spool pin attached) into the thread cassette compartment.

• For more details, refer to step the extra spool pin” (page 30).

X Pass both threads through the needle bar

thread hook.

• The needle threader cannot be used. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

Install the twin needle.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 36).

5 in “Using

Remove the thread for the right side of the

stitch from the needle bar thread hook, and then use it to thread the right needle.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

CAUTION

● When using the twin needle, be sure to

attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Turn on the sewing machine.

Manually thread the left needle with the

thread for the left side of the stitch.

• For details, refer to “Thread the needle manually” (page 31).

X The LCD comes on.

Press (settings key) in the operation panel.

X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

is selected.

Upper Threading 33

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Press (OK key).

X The screen for selecting the twin needle

appears.

Press to select .

To return to , press .

X The twin needle can now be used.

Press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again, and

appears in the lower-left corner of the

screen.

Note

● Even after the sewing machine is turned off,

the twin needle setting is not cancelled.

CAUTION

Start sewing.

• For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51).

X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to

each other.

Note

● When changing the sewing direction, press

(needle position button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.

CAUTION

● Do not try turning the fabric with the

twin needle left in the fabric, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to

select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Select a stitch.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn

with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

CAUTION

● When using the twin needle, be sure to

select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

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Pulling up the bobbin thread

When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

Pull out about 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch) of the

bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.

Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.

• Refer to steps bobbin” (page 22).

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.

Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

While lightly holding the upper thread with

your left hand, press (needle position button) twice to raise the needle.

1 through 5 of “Installing the

Reattach the bobbin cover.

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

1 Needle position button

X The bobbin thread is looped around the

upper thread and can be pulled up.

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull

out the end of the bobbin thread.

Upper Threading 35

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Replacing the Needle

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION

Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or

●

damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Fabric Type/Application

Medium

weight fabrics

Thin

fabrics

Thick

fabrics

Stretch

fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

For top-stitching

Broadcloth Cotton thread

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel,

Gabardine

Lawn Cotton thread

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread

Denim Cotton thread

Corduroy Synthetic thread

Tweed Silk thread

Jersey

Tricot

Type Size

Silk thread

Thread for knits

Cotton thread

Silk thread

Synthetic thread

Silk thread

Thread

Size of Needle

–80

75/11–90/14

–80

–50

–60

–80

30 90/14–100/16

65/9–75/11

90/14–100/16

Ball point needle

(golden colored)

75/11–90/14

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

S3_brotherE.book Page 37 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Memo

● The smaller the thread number, the thicker

the thread, and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.

● Use the ball point needle when sewing on

stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with

transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.

● A 75/11 needle is already installed when

the sewing machine is purchased.

CAUTION

● The appropriate fabric, thread and

needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

1 Flat side 2 Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

1 Flat surface

■ Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

1 Flat surface

Replacing the Needle 37

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

Replacing the needle

use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the

Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined

needle.

to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle”.

Press (needle position button) once or

twice to raise the needle.

1 Screwdriver 2 Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

1 Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

CAUTION

● Before replacing the needle, be sure to

turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Lower the presser foot lever.

With the flat side of the needle toward the

rear of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.

1 Needle stopper

1 Presser foot lever

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While holding the needle with your left hand,

use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION

Be sure to insert the needle until it

●

touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

■ Using the needle-changing tool

Use the enclosed needle-changing tool to replace the needle as described below.

Pass the needle through the hole in the

needle-changing tool.

Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the

fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.

Using the screwdriver, loosen the needle

clamp screw.

Replacing the Needle 39

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Lower the needle-changing tool.

X The needle can be removed from the needle

bar.

Insert the new needle into the hole in the

needle-changing tool.

Insert the needle with the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine.

Insert the needle until it touches the needle

stopper, and then use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.

X The needle is installed.

Lower the needle-changing tool off of the

needle.

Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the

fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.

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Replacing the Presser Foot

The presser foot presses down on the fabric.

Presser foot precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.

CAUTION

Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the

●

needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.

● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser

foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

Press (needle position button) once or

twice to raise the needle.

1 Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

CAUTION

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure

to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Raise the presser foot lever.

1 Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

Replacing the Presser Foot 41

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Press the black button at the back of the

presser foot holder.

1 Black button 2 Presser foot holder

X The presser foot holder releases the presser

foot.

Place a different presser foot below the holder

so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read.

1 Presser foot holder 2 Notch 3 Pin

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the

presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

presser foot is securely attached.

Note

● When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

Buttonhole foot “A”

Overcasting foot “G”

Zigzag foot “J”

Button fitting foot “M”

Monogramming foot “N”

Blind stitch foot “R”

Side cutter “S”

● For details on the presser foot that should be

used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

1 Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is attached.

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Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.

■ Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Hold the presser foot holder in place with

your right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

1 Screwdriver

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

holder screw.

1 Screwdriver 2 Presser foot holder 3 Presser foot holder screw

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

Align the presser foot holder with the lower-

left side of the presser bar.

Note

● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

Replacing the Presser Foot 43

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Using the optional walking foot

With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.

■ Attaching the walking foot

Remove the presser foot holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (on the previous page).

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

onto the needle clamp screw.

CAUTION

● Be sure to securely tighten the screw

with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the

balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Note

● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.

■ Removing the walking foot

Press (needle position button) once or

twice to raise the needle.

1 Connecting fork 2 Needle clamp screw

Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser

foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.

1 Presser foot holder screw

1 Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

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Raise the presser foot lever.

1 Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot

holder screw, and then remove the walking foot.

1 Presser foot holder screw

Attach the presser foot holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 43).

Memo

● Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement

stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot. For details on the stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

Replacing the Presser Foot 45

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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces

Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.

Then, install the flap back to its original

Free-arm sewing

Removing the flap allows for free-arm sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs.

Slide the flap off to the left.

position.

X With the flap removed, free-arm sewing is

possible.

Pull the sliding leg (at the bottom of the

machine) out toward you.

1 Sliding leg

• During free-arm sewing, be sure to pull out the sliding leg.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

arm, and then sew from the top.

When you are finished with free-arm sewing,

push the sliding leg back into position.

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2 SEWING BASICS

The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.

Sewing ....................................................................................................................48

Adjusting the Thread Tension .................................................................................56

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ...................................................................57

Useful Functions ....................................................................................................59

Useful Sewing Tips ................................................................................................. 61

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing

Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION

● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,

keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise injuries may occur.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the

needle may break.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or

bend.

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General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

2 Select the stitch.

4 Position the fabric.

5 Start sewing.

6 Cut the thread.

Turn on the

machine.

Attach the presser

foot.

Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 11).

↓

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

↓

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

↓

Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric” (page 50).

↓

Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51).

↓

Cut the thread at the end of sewing. For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).

Sewing 49

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Positioning the fabric

Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.

Turn on the sewing machine.

Lower the presser foot lever.

The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.

Press (needle position button) once or

twice to raise the needle.

1 Needle position button

Place the fabric under the presser foot.

• If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

While holding the end of the thread and the

fabric with your left hand, turn the balance wheel toward you with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

1 Presser foot lever

X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

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Starting to sew

Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the operation buttons or the foot controller.

■ Using the operation buttons

Sewing can be started and stopped using the

operation button (start/stop button).

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

press (start/stop button) once.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

down (in the fabric).

When you are finished sewing, raise the

needle, and then cut the threads.

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).

■ Using the foot controller

Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller.

1 Sewing speed controller

Press (start/stop button) once.

1 Start/stop button

X The machine starts sewing.

Turn off the sewing machine.

When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on

the side of the sewing machine.

1 Foot controller jack

• If you continue to hold the start/stop button pressed immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

● Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model CS-8150.

Sewing 51

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Turn on the sewing machine.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

1 Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly

press down on the foot controller.

Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

When you are finished sewing, raise the

needle, and then cut the threads.

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).

Memo

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the

start/stop button cannot be used to start or stop sewing.

● When sewing is stopped, the needle

remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the needle stop position” (page 16).

CAUTION

● Do not allow thread or dust to

accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

● Do not place objects on the foot

controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur.

● If the machine is not to be used for a long

period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

Slower

Faster

• Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.

X The machine starts sewing.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

completely release the foot controller.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

lowered (in the fabric).

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Securing the stitching

When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.

After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press

(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.

1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch

button is held pressed, reverse stitches are sewn.

Press (start/stop button) or press down

on the foot controller.

At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.

1 Start/stop button

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51).

X The machine starts sewing.

After sewing back to the beginning of the

stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement stitch button.

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (start/stop button), or press down

on the foot controller.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.

While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button is depressed, reverse stitches are sewn.

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,

release (reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (start/stop button), or press down

on the foot controller.

At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

After sewing to the end of the stitching, the

sewing machine stops.

Release the start/stop button or foot controller.

1 Beginning of stitching 2 End of stitching

■ Sewing reinforcement stitches

When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,

pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches

on top of each other.

1 Reverse stitching 2 Reinforcement stitching

Memo

● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

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Cutting the thread

When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.

When you wish to finish the stitching and the

sewing machine is stopped, press (needle position button) once to raise the needle.

1 Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

■ Using the thread cutter button (Only for models equipped with the thread cutter button)

When you wish to finish the stitching, press

(thread cutter button) once.

1 Thread cutter button

X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

1 Presser foot lever

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

1 Thread cutter

1 Presser foot lever

CAUTION

● Do not press the thread cutter button

after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

Note

● Do not press the thread cutter button if there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.

● When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon thread or other special thread, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine.

Sewing 55

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Adjusting the Thread Tension

The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal.

Turn the thread tension dial downward to loosen

Changing the tension of the upper thread

If the thread and needle combination is correct for the type of fabric being sewn (according to “Needle types and their uses” on page 36), the thread tension will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate setting. However, if the preset thread tension does not give the desired result or if you are sewing with special thread or on special fabric, use the thread tension dial on the left side of the machine to adjust the tension of the upper thread.

■ Correct thread tension

The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

the upper thread.

■ Upper thread is too loose

If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread 5 The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of

the fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial upward to tighten the upper thread.

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread

■ Upper thread is too tight

If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread 5 The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of

the fabric.

Tight

Loose

1 Thread tension dial

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Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length

The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

Adjusting the stitch width

The stitch width can be adjusted with the arrow keys.

Turn on the sewing machine.

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the

standard settings (highlighted) appear.

Memo

● To reset the stitch width to its standard setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.

● If the straight stitch (left needle position or triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left.

● The sewing machine can be set so that the stitch width can easily be changed with the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to “Satin stitching” (page 94).

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly

turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

To make the stitch width narrower, press

(–). To make the stitch width wider, press (+).

X The stitch width is changed.

–

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

Adjusting the Thread Tension/Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Adjusting the stitch length

The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow keys.

Turn on the sewing machine.

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the

standard settings (highlighted) appear.

Memo

● To reset the stitch length to its standard setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.

CAUTION

● If the stitches are bunched together,

increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

To make the stitch length shorter, press (–).

To make the stitch length longer, press (+).

X The stitch length is changed.

–

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

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Useful Functions

Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

Turn on the sewing machine.

Press to select .

To return to , press .

X The machine is now set to automatically

sew reverse/reinforcement stitches.

Press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again, and

appears in the lower-left corner of the

screen.

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Press (settings key) in the operation panel.

X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

is selected.

Press (OK key).

X The screen for specifying automatic reverse/

reinforcement stitching appears.

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is cancelled.

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

then press (start/stop button) once.

1 Start/stop button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the machine starts sewing.

Useful Functions 59

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

After reaching the end of the stitching, press

(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)

once.

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the sewing machine stops.

Memo

● Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the end of the stitching.

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Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing direction

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine

stopped sewing, press (needle position button) to lower the needle.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to “Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 63).

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

fabric.

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

sewing.

Useful Sewing Tips 61

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing thick fabrics

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching

Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.

1 Sewing direction

CAUTION

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)

thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

When you encounter a seam that is too thick

to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever.

Press the black button on the left side of the

foot. Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot.

Release the button. The foot will lock in place

level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.

X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the

foot will return to its normal position.

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Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

1 Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

1 Basting

Sewing an even seam allowance

To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.

■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot

Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.

1 Seam 2 Presser foot

■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking

The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

1 Seam 2 Presser foot 3 Centimeters 4 Inches 5 Needle plate 6 16 mm (5/8 inch)

Useful Sewing Tips 63

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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3 UTILITY STITCHES

The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.

Selecting Stitching .................................................................................................. 66

Overcasting Stitches ............................................................................................... 68

Basic Stitching ........................................................................................................72

Blind Hem Stitching ............................................................................................... 74

Buttonhole Stitching ............................................................................................... 76

Zipper Insertion ..................................................................................................... 82

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape .................................................................86

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ............................................................... 88

Reinforcement Stitching .........................................................................................95

Eyelet Stitching ....................................................................................................... 99

Decorative Stitching ............................................................................................. 100

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns .................................................. 108

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Selecting Stitching

You can select any of the various types of stitching available.

Stitch types

A total of 4 groups of stitch types (utility stitches, decorative stitches, satin stitches and cross-stitches ) are available. For details on the types of stitches available, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

■ Utility stitches

There are 67 utility stitches, including straight stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole stitches.

■ Decorative stitches

There are 31 decorative stitches, including hearts, leaves and flowers.

■ Satin stitches

There are 16 satin stitches.

■ Cross-stitches

There are 5 types of cross-stitches.

Selecting stitching

Using the operation panel keys, select the desired stitch from those shown in the LCD. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected.

Determine the stitch that you wish to use.

• Refer to “Stitch types” (at the left).

Determine which presser foot should be used

with the selected stitch.

The presser feet are stored in the accessory compartment.

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 118).

Attach the presser foot.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Turn on the sewing machine.

X The straight stitch (left needle position) is

shown selected in the LCD.

Press (stitch selection key) in the

operation panel.

X The screen containing the various types of

stitches appears.

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Press , , and (arrow keys) until

the type of stitch that you wish to use is selected.

Press (OK key).

X The screen containing the various stitches in

the selected stitch type appears.

■ Understanding the screen

Note

● When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

Memo

● For details on adjusting the stitch width and

length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 57).

1 Selected stitch type 2 Number of stitches in the selected stitch type

• To select a different stitch type, press (back key).

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

the stitch that you wish to use is selected.

Press to return to the previous screen. Press to display the next screen.

Press (OK key).

X The stitch is selected.

If necessary, specify the setting for automatic

reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.

• For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, refer to the following pages.

Selecting Stitching 67

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Overcasting Stitches

Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”

Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Preventing fraying in medium weight

Application

and thin fabrics

Overcasting

stitch

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily

Attach overcasting foot “G”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the

presser foot guide.

1 Needle drop point

Presser

Foot

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric

against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

1 Guide

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly

turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

S3_brotherE.book Page 69 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”

Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch

(center

Pattern

needle

position)

Zigzag stitch (right needle

position)

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Overcasting

stitch

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

Application

Preventing fraying (center baseline/ reverse stitching)

Preventing fraying (right baseline/ reinforcement stitching)

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.3–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Presser

Foot

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Sew along the edge of the fabric with the

needle dropping off the edge at the right.

1 Needle drop point

Overcasting Stitches 69

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter

Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

Stitch Name

Overcasting

stitch

Pattern

Sewing straight stitches while cutting

Application

the fabric

Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric

Preventing fraying in thin and

mediumweight fabrics while cutting the fabric

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

(0)

0.0–2.5

(0–3/32)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.0–4.0 (0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin

is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.

Presser

Foot

Remove the presser foot.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter

onto the needle clamp screw.

1 Connecting fork 2 Needle clamp screw

1 Notch in presser foot holder 2 Pin

X The side cutter is attached.

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Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

side cutter is securely attached.

CAUTION

● If the thread cassette is to be installed

with the side cutter attached, be sure to lower the presser foot lever. If the presser foot lever remains raised, the needle threader will hit the presser foot, which may result in damages.

Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,

and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine.

Position the fabric in the side cutter.

The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.

1 Guide plate

• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.

Lower the presser foot lever, and then start

sewing.

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly

turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in

the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

1 2 cm (1/16 inch)

X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching

is sewn.

• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the seam allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).

1 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Memo

● The side cutter can cut as much as one layer

of 13-oz. denim.

● After using the side cutter, clean it by

removing any lint or dust.

● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,

use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.

Overcasting Stitches 71

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Basic Stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.

Stitch Name

Basting

stitch

Straight

stitch (left

needle

position)

Pattern

Temporarily securing

Basic stitching and sewing gathers or

pintucks (left baseline/reverse

Application

stitching)

Basic stitching and sewing gathers or

pintucks (left baseline/reinforcement stitching)

Straight

stitch

(center

needle

Basic stitching and sewing gathers or

pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching)

position)

Triple

stretch

stitch

Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch fabrics

Basting

Sew basting with a stitch length of 5 mm (3/16 inch).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

––

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

––

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Basic stitching

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

Presser

Foot

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select stitch 6.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51).

1 5 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

beginning of the stitching.

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Start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51).

• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 53).

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).

■ Changing the needle position

The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).

0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

543

1 Stitch width 2 Distance from the needle position to the right

side of the presser foot

3 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) 4 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) 5 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) 6 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

1 Straight stitch (left needle position) 2 Straight stitch (center needle position)

When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 57).

Basic Stitching 73

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S3_brotherE.book Page 74 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Blind Hem Stitching

Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

Stitch Name

Blind hem

stitch

Pattern

Blind hem stitching on mediumweight

Application

fabrics

Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Basting stitching 3 Desired edge of hem 4 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

3← – 3→

(0)

0.0

3← – 3→

(0)

Attach blind hem foot “R”.

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

Presser

Foot

Fold back the fabric along the basting, and

then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Basting

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Fold of hem 3 Guide

S3_brotherE.book Page 75 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Adjust the stitch width until the needle

slightly catches the fold of the hem.

1 Needle drop point

–

1 Stitch width

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold

The needle is too far to the left. Press (of the arrow keys) to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold

The needle is too far to the right. Press (of the arrow keys) to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric

• For details on changing the stitch width, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 57).

Sew with the fold of the hem against the

presser foot guide.

Remove the basting stitching.

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric

Blind Hem Stitching 75

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S3_brotherE.book Page 76 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Buttonhole Stitching

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing on buttons and one-step buttonholes.

Stitch Name

Buttonhole

stitch

Pattern

Horizontal buttonholes on thin and

Application

mediumweight fabrics

Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain

Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics

Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

Bound buttonholes

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for mediumweight and thick fabrics

Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

5.0

(3/16)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

Presser

Foot

Button-

sewing

stitch

Button sewing

3.5

(1/8)

2.5–4.5

(3/32–3/16)

–– M

S3_brotherE.book Page 77 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Buttonhole sewing

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

1 Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position

and length of the buttonhole.

1 Marks on fabric

1 Button guide plate 2 Presser foot scale 3 Pin 4 Marks on buttonhole foot 5 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole

foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

Buttonhole Stitching 77

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of buttonhole

(Diameter + thickness of button)

3 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.

1 Do not reduce the gap.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

possible.

1 10 mm (3/8 inch) 2 15 mm (9/16 inch)

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Position the fabric with the front end of the

buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

1 Mark on fabric 2 Red marks on buttonhole foot

1 Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

your left hand, and then start sewing.

X Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops

S3_brotherE.book Page 79 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Raise the presser foot lever, remove the

fabric, and then cut the thread.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

position.

Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at

the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.

1 Pin

Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin

and open the buttonhole.

CAUTION

● When opening the buttonhole with the

seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.

■ Changing the density of the stitching

Adjust the stitch length.

–

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 58).

• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.

■ Changing the stitch width

Adjust the stitch width.

–

1 Seam ripper

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

1 Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 57).

Memo

● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch

length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

Buttonhole Stitching 79

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a

Button sewing

gimp thread.

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the

button to be attached.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the

drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select stitch 46 or 47.

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

gimp thread.

Lower the presser foot lever and the

buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

thread to remove any slack.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.

1 Drop feed lever

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach button-sewing foot “M”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the

gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole.

Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

S3_brotherE.book Page 81 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.

1 Button

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

Select stitch

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle

does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Start sewing.

X The sewing machine automatically stops

after sewing reinforcement stitches.

• If additional strength is needed to secure the button, perform the button-sewing operation twice.

• Do not press the thread cutter button.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the

stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as

the distance between the holes in the button.

Turn the balance wheel toward you to check

that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.

Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

When you are finished attaching the button,

slide the drop feed lever to (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

Buttonhole Stitching 81

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Zipper Insertion

A zipper can be sewn in place.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Application

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Presser

Foot

Auto Manual Auto Manual

Straight

stitch (center

needle

Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks

––

(3/32)

2.5

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

position)

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.

Press open the seam allowance from the

Inserting a centered zipper

wrong side of the fabric.

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.

1 Wrong side of fabric

1 Right side of fabric 2 Stitching 3 End of zipper opening

Align the seam with the center of the zipper,

and then baste the zipper in place.

Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight

stitches up to the zipper opening.

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching” (page 72).

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

edge of the fabric.

1 Basting stitching 2 Reverse stitches 3 Wrong side of fabric 4 End of zipper opening

1 Basting stitching 2 Wrong side of fabric 3 Zipper

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

of zipper foot “I”.

1 Pin on the right side 2 Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

S3_brotherE.book Page 83 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Select stitch 3.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

CAUTION

● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to

select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Topstitch around the zipper.

Inserting a side zipper

Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper for side openings and back openings.

1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 End of zipper opening

1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 Basting stitching 4 End of zipper opening

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle

does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Remove the basting stitching.

The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.

Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight

stitches up to the zipper opening.

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching” (page 72).

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

edge of the fabric.

1 Basting stitching 2 Reverse stitches 3 Wrong side of fabric 4 End of zipper opening

Press open the seam allowance from the

wrong side of the fabric.

1 Wrong side of fabric

Zipper Insertion 83

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Press the seam allowance so that the right side

(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 3 mm (1/8 inch)

Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge

of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

1 Zipper teeth 2 Basting stitching

CAUTION

● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to

Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the

extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

of zipper foot “I”.

If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.

1 Pin on the right side 2 Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select stitch 3.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle

does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing.

S3_brotherE.book Page 85 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and

then baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

1 Basting stitching

Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin

of zipper foot “I”.

If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in step

6, change it to the left pin.

When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever.

Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,

and then continue sewing.

1 Pin on the left side 2 Needle drop point

Topstitch around the zipper.

Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.

1 Right side of fabric 2 End of zipper opening 3 Reverse stitches 4 Beginning of stitching 5 Basting stitching

Zipper Insertion 85

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Application

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

Stretch

stitch

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Elastic-

attaching

stitch

Stretch fabrics

Attaching elastic

Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics

1.0

(1/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

Presser

Foot

Select stitch 5.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Sew the fabric without stretching it.

1 Elastic tape 2 Pin

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

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Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.

While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

CAUTION

●

When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch

Appliqué

stitch

Piecing

straight

stitch

Joining

stitch

Pattern

Attaching appliqués (center baseline/

Application

reverse stitching)

Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching

Attaching appliqués

Attaching appliqués and binding

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam

allowance of 6.5 mm from the right edge of the presser foot)

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam

allowance of 6.5 mm from the left edge of the presser foot)

Patchwork stitching

Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

1.5

(1/16)

5.5

(7/32)

1.5

(1/16)

4.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.2

(1/16)

1.6

(1/16)

1.6

(1/16)

1.2

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.2

(1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

Presser

Foot

Mock hand

quilting

stitch

Quilting stippling

Straight stitch quilting that looks hand quilting

Stippling

0.0 (0)

7.0

(1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.6

(1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

S3_brotherE.book Page 89 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM

Appliqué stitching

Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam

allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/16 inch).

1 Seam allowance

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then

begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.

Place a pattern made of thick paper on the

back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.

• Remove the thick paper after pressing the seam allowance.

Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it

onto the fabric that it will be attached to.

When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.

1 Basting stitching

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching

Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and

place it over the lower piece.

Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the

pattern spans over both pieces.

Piecing

Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a

6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the

fabric that you wish to piece together.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select stitch

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned

with the edge of the fabric.

■ For a seam allowance on the right side

Align the right side of the presser foot with the

edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch

1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

■ For a seam allowance on the left side

Align the left side of the presser foot with the

edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch

1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

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Memo

● To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width.

Quilting

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide.

Baste the fabric to be quilted.

Attach the walking foot.

• For details, refer to “Using the optional walking foot” (page 44).

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

Place one hand on each side of the presser

foot, and then evenly stretch the fabric while sewing.

Note

● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at

a speed between slow and medium.

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 91

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Using the optional quilting guide

Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that

Free-motion quilting

are equally spaced.

With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.

Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at

the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder.

 Walking foot

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

holder.

• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 43).

Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side

of the presser bar.

The pin on the quilting foot should be

 Presser foot holder

positioned over the needle clamp screw.

Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt

guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.

1 Pin on quilting foot 2 Presser foot holder screw 3 Needle clamp screw

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right

hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

1 Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION

● Be sure to securely tighten the screws

with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

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Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear

of the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).

1 Feed dog position switch

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a

stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed

lever to (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at the left.

Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and

then move the fabric to follow the pattern.

Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of sewing.

1 Pattern

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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Satin stitching

A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted with the foot controller.

Connect the foot controller.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Turn on the sewing machine, and then press

(settings key) in the operation panel.

X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (arrow keys) until

is selected.

Select stitch

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66).

While sewing, slide the sewing speed

controller to adjust the stitch width.

Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make the width wider.

Narrower

Wider

• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot controller.

When you are finished sewing, set the stitch

width control setting back to OFF.

Press (OK key).

X The screen for specifying that the stitch

width can be controlled with the sewing speed controller appears.

Press to select .

To return to , press .

X The machine is now set so that the stitch

width can be controlled with the sewing speed controller.

Press (OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Memo

● Although the stitching result differs

depending on the type of fabric being sewn and the thickness of the thread being used, for best results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).

Brother CS-8120, CS-8130 Operation Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual