Brother CS7205 Operation Manual

APPENDIX

UTILITY STITCHES

SEWING BASICS

KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE

Operation Manual

Product Code: 885-E35

Sewing Machine

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.
We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before
attempting to use the machine.

DANGER

- To reduce the risk of electric shock:

Always unplug the machine from the electrical

1

outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments
mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving
the machine unattended.

WARNING

- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or
injury to persons.

Always unplug the machine from the electrical

2

outlet when making any adjustments mentioned
in the instruction manual:

•Tounplugthemachine,switchthemachinetothe

symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the
plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not
pull on the cord.

•Plugthemachinedirectlyintotheelectricaloutlet.

Do not use an extension cord.

•Alwaysunplugyourmachineifthepoweriscut.

Electrical Hazards:

3

•ThismachineshouldbeconnectedtoanAC

power source within the range indicated on the

ratinglabel.DonotconnectittoaDCpower

source or inverter. If you are not sure what kind
of power source you have, contact a qualified
electrician.

•Thismachineisapprovedforuseinthecountryof

purchase only.

Never operate this machine if it has a damaged

4

cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if
it has been dropped or damaged, or water is
spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the
nearest authorized dealer or service center for
examination, repair, electrical or mechanical
adjustment.

•Whilethemachineisstoredorinuseifyou

notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the
machine and immediately unplug the power cord.

•Whentransportingthemachine,besuretocarryit

by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part
may damage the machine or result in the machine
falling, which could cause injuries.

•Whenliftingthemachine,becarefulnottomake

any sudden or careless movements, otherwise you
may injure your back or knees.

Always keep your work area clear:

5

• Neveroperatethemachinewithanyairopenings

blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the build up
of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Donotstoreobjectsonthefootcontroller.

• Donotuseextensioncords.Plugthemachine

directly into the electrical outlet.

• Neverdroporinsertanyobjectintoanyopening.

• Donotoperatewhereaerosol(spray)products

are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.

• Donotusethemachinenearaheatsource,such

as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power
cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting
in fire or an electric shock.

• Donotplacethismachineonanunstable

surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwise the machine may fall, resulting in
injuries.

Special care is required when sewing:

6

• Alwayspaycloseattentiontotheneedle.Donot

use bent or damaged needles.

• Keepfingersawayfromallmovingparts.Special

care is required around the machine needle.

• Switchthemachinetothesymbol“O”position

to turn it off when making any adjustments in the
needle area.

• Donotuseadamagedorincorrectneedleplate,

as it could cause the needle to break.

• Donotpushorpullthefabricwhensewing,and

follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause
it to break.

1

This machine is not a toy:

7

• Yourcloseattentionisnecessarywhenthe

machine is used by or near children.

• Theplasticbagthatthismachinewassupplied

in should be kept out of the reach of children or
disposed of. Never allow children to play with
the bag due to the danger of suffocation.

• Donotuseoutdoors.

For a longer service life:

8

• Whenstoringthismachine,avoiddirectsunlight

and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen
lamp, or other hot objects.

• Useonlyneutralsoapsordetergentstocleanthe

case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should
never be used.

• Alwaysconsulttheoperationmanualwhen

replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser
feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct
installation.

For repair or adjustment:

9

• Ifthelightunit(light-emittingdiode)isdamaged,

it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

• Intheeventamalfunctionoccursoradjustment

is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect
and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized
Brother dealer.

SAVE THESE

INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT
EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance is not intended for use by persons

(includingchildren)withreducedphysical,sensory

or mental capabilities, or lack of experience
and knowledge, unless they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the
appliance by a person responsible for their safety.

Childrenshouldbesupervisedtoensurethatthey

do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance can be used by children
aged from 8 years and above and persons
with reduced physical, sensory or mental
capabilities or lack of experience and
knowledge if they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning
use of the appliance in a safe way and

understandthehazardsinvolved.Children
shallnotplaywiththeappliance.Cleaning

and user maintenance shall not be made
by children without supervision.

Use this machine only for its intended use as
described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer
as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of
this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web
site at www.brother.com

2

FOR USERS IN THE

UK, EIRE, MALTA AND

CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

•Intheeventofreplacingtheplugfuse,useafuse

approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.

•Alwaysreplacethefusecover.Neveruseplugs

with the fuse cover omitted.

•Iftheavailableelectricaloutletisnotsuitablefor

the plug supplied with this equipment, you should
contact your authorized dealer to obtain the
correct lead.

CONTENTS

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ............. 1

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING

MACHINE ........................................... 4

ACCESSORIES ...................................................4

Included accessories .............................................. 4

Optional accessories .............................................. 5

Accessory compartment ......................................... 5

Flip chart (For models equipped with a flip chart) ... 5

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR

FUNCTIONS ..................................................... 6

The main parts ....................................................... 6

Needle and presser foot section ............................. 6

Operation buttons .................................................. 7

Operation panel ..................................................... 7

Spool pin................................................................ 8

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................... 9

Power supply precautions ...................................... 9

Power supply ......................................................... 9

Foot controller........................................................ 9

Sewing speed controller (for models

equipped with the start/stop button) ......................10

Changing the needle stop position.........................10

Changing the initial needle position ......................10

Cancelling the operation beep...............................11

THREADING THE MACHINE .......................... 11

Winding the bobbin ..............................................11

Lower threading ....................................................14

Upper threading ....................................................16

Drawing up the lower thread .................................19

REPLACING THE NEEDLE ............................... 20

Needle precautions .............................................. 20

Needle types and their uses ................................. 20

Checking the needle ............................................ 20

Replacing the needle ............................................ 21

Sewing with the twin needle ................................ 21

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT .................... 23

Replacing the presser foot .................................... 23

Removing the presser foot holder ......................... 24

2. SEWING BASICS ............................... 25

SEWING .......................................................... 25

General sewing procedure ................................... 25

Selecting a stitch .................................................. 25

Adjusting the stitch length and width.................... 26

Starting to sew ...................................................... 26

Thread tension ..................................................... 28

USEFUL SEWING TIPS .................................... 29

Trial se wing .......................................................... 29

Changing the sewing direction ............................. 29

Sewing curves ...................................................... 29

Sewing thick fabrics ............................................. 29

Sewing hook-and-loop fastener tape .................... 30

Sewing thin fabrics ............................................... 30

Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................... 30

Stitching cylindrical pieces ....................................31

3. UTILITY STITCHES ............................ 32

OVERCASTING STITCHES ............................... 32

Using zigzag foot ................................................. 32

Using overcasting foot .......................................... 32

BASIC STITCHING .......................................... 33

BLIND HEM STITCHING ................................. 33

BUTTONHOLE SEWING ................................. 35

Button sewing ...................................................... 38

ZIPPER INSERTION ......................................... 39

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND

ELASTIC TAPE .................................................40

Stretch stitching .................................................... 40

Elastic attaching ................................................... 40

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND

QUILT STITCHING .......................................... 41

Appliqués ..............................................................41

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ............................41

Piecing ................................................................. 42

Quilting ................................................................ 42

Free-motion quilting ............................................. 43

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING ....................... 44

Triple stretch stitching ........................................... 44

Bar tack stitching .................................................. 44

DECORATIVE STITCHING .............................. 45

Fagoting ............................................................... 46

Scallop stitching ................................................... 46

Smocking ............................................................. 46

Shell tuck stitching ............................................... 47

Joining .................................................................. 47

Heirloom stitching ................................................ 48

SEWING CHARACTERS (for models

equipped with character stitches) ................... 48

Sewing beautiful patterns ..................................... 48

Selecting characters ............................................. 48

Checking characters ............................................. 51

Deleting characters .............................................. 51

Sewing the character stitches ............................... 51

ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models

equipped with character stitches) ................... 52

4. APPENDIX ......................................... 53

STITCH SETTINGS ........................................... 53

Utility stitches ...................................................... 53

Satin stitches ........................................................ 58

Character stitches (for models

equipped with character stitches) ......................... 59

MAINTENANCE .............................................. 60

Restrictions on oiling ............................................ 60

Precautions on storing the machine ...................... 60

Cleaning the machine surface ............................... 60

Cleaning the race ................................................. 60

TROUBLESHOOTING ..................................... 61

Frequent troubleshooting topics ............................61

Upper thread tightened up ................................... 62

Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric ................. 62

Incorrect thread tension ....................................... 62

Fabric is caught in the machine and

cannot be removed .............................................. 63

Error message “E6” appears in the LCD ................ 65

List of symptoms .................................................. 67

ERROR MESSAGES ..........................................71

Operation beep .................................................... 71

INDEX ............................................................. 72

3

1

Note

o

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

ACCESSORIES

Included accessories

After opening the box, check that the following
accessories are included. If any item is missing or
damaged, contact your dealer.

(For U.S.A. only)

• Foot controller: Model T

• This foot controller can be used on the machine

with product code 885-E35. The product code is
mentioned on the machine rating plate.

• The screw of the presser foot holder is available
through your authorized dealer. (Part code:
XG1343- 001)

• The included accessories vary depending on the
machine model.

1.

4.

7.

M

2.

J

5.

N

8. 9.

M

3.

A

6.

I

G

R

No. Part Name

1 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XZ513 4 - 001
2 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033
3 Overcasting foot “G” XC30 98-0 31
4 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810 -031
5 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021
6 Blind stitch foot “R” XE2650-001
7 Button tting foot “M” XE 2137-001
8 Seam ripper XZ5082-001

Bobbin (4)

9

(One is on machine.)
10 Needle set XC8834-021
11 Twin nee dle 131096-121

Ball point needle
12

(gold colored)
13 Cleaning brush X59 476 -021
14 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074 - 0 51
15 Spool cap (large) 130 012- 024

Spool cap (medium)
16

(on machine)
17 Spool cap (small) 130013-124
18 Extra spool pin XE2241-001

19 Foot controller

Part Code

Americas

SA156

XD0501-121 (EU area)

Others

SFB:

XA5539-151

XD0360 -021

XE13 72-001

XC8816-071
(Other areas)

Mem

• About zigzag foot “J”;
Press the black button when it is difficult for thick

seams to be fed, for example, at the beginning of
sewing thick fabrics. (Page 29)

1 Black but ton

10. 11.

75/11 1 needle
90 / 14 1 ne e dle
100/16 1 needle

12.

90 / 14 1 ne e dle

15. 16. 17.

18. 19.

4

13. 14.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Note

Note

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to
be purchased separately. Depending on the model
you purchased, the following accessory may be
included.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5.

No. Part Name

1 Walking foot S A14 0

2 Quilting foot SA129

3 1/4-inch quilting foot SA125

4 Quilting guide SA132

5 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001

Part Code

Americas

Others

F033N:

XC2214-052

F005N:

XC194 8- 052

F001N:

XC194 4-052

F016N:

XC2215-052

For models equipped with an open type flat bed
attachment

Open the compartment as illustrated below.

Flat bed attachment

1

Storage compartment

2

• Store the accessories in the compartment when
they are not used.

Flip chart (For models equipped
with a flip chart)

For models equipped with a flip chart on the front
panel

1

1

Accessory compartment

For models equipped with a slide type flat bed
attachment

Slide the flat bed attachment as illustrated below to
open it.

Flat bed attachment

1

Storage compartment

2

• Put the accessories in the bag, and then store the
bag inside the compartment when they are not
used. If the accessories are not in a bag, they may
fall out, and be lost or damaged.

1 Notch

For models equipped with a flip chart on the top
panel

1

1 Notch

5

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS
AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

The illustrations in this operation manual may differ
from the actual machine.

The main parts

1 Bobbin winder (page 11)
2 Upper tension-control dial (page 28)
3 Bobbin-winding thread guide and pre-tension disc

(p age 11)

4 Thread take-up lever (page 17)
5 Thread cutter (page 27)
6 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

(page 5 and 31)

7 Operation buttons (page 7)
8 Operation panel (page 7)
9 Spool pin (page 8, 11 and 16)
< Handwheel

This is used to manually raise and lower the needle.

A Air vent

This vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.

B Main power and sewing light switch (page 9)
C Jack/socket connector (page 9)

D Foot controller (page 9)
E Foot controller jack/socket (page 9)
F Feed dog position lever (page 38 and 43)
G Presser foot lever (page 16)
H Thread guide (page 12 and 17)
I Thread guide cover (page 17)
J Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.

Needle and presser foot section

1 Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle

threader) (page 18)

2 Buttonhole lever (page 36 and 45)
3 Presser foot holder

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

4 Presser foot holder screw

Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser
foot holder in place.

5 Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.

6 Needle plate cover release

Use when removing the needle plate cover.

7 Needle plate cover
8 Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

9 Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the

quickset bobbin)

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin
thread.

0 Bobbin cover
A Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.

B Needle bar thread guide (page 18)
C Presser foot lever

Raises and lowers the presser foot.

D Needle clamp screw

6

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

8

5

:

7

Operation buttons

The operation buttons differ depending on the
sewing machine model.

1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

Press this button to sew reverse stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down
to sew in the opposite direction. For details, refer to
“Sewing reinforcement stitches” (page 27).

■Buttons provided on some models

2 Start/stop button

Press this button to start or stop sewing. The machine
sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while
the button is pressed. When sewing is stopped, the
needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to
“Starting to sew” (page 26).

3 Needle position button

Press this button to raise or lower the needle.

4 Sewing speed controller

Slide this controller to adjust the sewing speed.

Operation panel

3 Stitch length adjustment key

Press the “–” side to reduce the stitch length;
press the “+” side to increase the stitch length.

4 Stitch width adjustment key

Press the “–” side to reduce the stitch width; press
the “+” side to increase the stitch width.

■Keys and indicators provided on some models

<For models equipped with satin stitches and 1
font type of character stitches>

578 6

5 Stitch category selection key (Page 25 and 49)

Press this key to select desired stitch category.

6 Utility stitch indicator

Lights up when the utility stitch is selected with
the stitch category selection key.

7 Satin stitch indicator

Lights up when the satin stitch is selected with the
stitch category selection key.

8 Character stitch indicator (for models equipped with

character stitches)

Lights up when the character stitch is selected
with the stitch category selection key.

<For models equipped with satin stitches and 2
font types of character stitches>

6

1

The operation panel allows you to select a stitch and
specify how the stitch will be sewn. The operation
panel differs depending on the sewing machine
model.

1 LCD (liquid crystal display)

The number of the selected stitch (1), the presser
foot type to be used (2), the stitch length (mm)
(3), the stitch width (mm) (4), and the auto
reverse/reinforcement (5) are displayed here.

2 Stitch selection keys (Page 25)

Select the number for the stitch that you wish to
use.

9

5 Utility stitch key (Page 25)

Selects the desired type of utility stitches.

6 Utility stitch indicator

Lights up when the utility stitch is selected with
the utility stitch key.

7 Satin stitch indicator

Lights up when the satin stitch is selected with the
utility stitch key.

8 Character stitch key (Page 50)

Selects the desired font type of character stitches.

9 Character stitch indicator (Gothic font)

Lights up when the character stitch (Gothic font) is
selected with the character stitch key.

: Character stitch indicator (Script font)

Lights up when the character stitch (Script font) is
selected with the character stitch key.

7

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

CAUTION

Spool pin

Press down on the spool pin lever to raise the spool
pin.

• Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,

otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.

■Storing the spool cap

The included spool cap (large, medium, small)
can be stored by attaching it to the spool pin as
illustrated below.

■Installing the spool pin

Insert the tab on the spool pin into the hole.

1

Push the spool pin down until it locks into

2

place.

1
2

Hole
Tab

■Storing the spool pin

When placing the cover on the sewing machine
or if the spool pin will not be used, return the
spool pin to its storage position.

Press until it clicks.

8

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

WARNING

CAUTION

o

Note

USING YOUR SEWING
MACHINE

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions
concerning the power supply.

• Use only regular household electricity for the

power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the
machine.

• Make sure that the plugs on the power cord

are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet
and the power supply jack on the machine.
Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.

• Do not insert the plug on the power cord into

an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

• Turn off the main power and remove the plug

in the following circumstances:

· When you are away from the machine

· After using the machine

· When the power fails during use

· When the machine does not operate
correctly due to a bad connection or a
disconnection

· During electrical storms

Power supply

Insert the plug into a wall outlet.

1

1

2

1

Set the main power switch to “I”.

2

XThe sewing light comes on when the

machine is turned on.

Mem

•When the machine is turned on, the needle
and the feed dogs will make sound when
they move; this is not a malfunction.

To turn off the machine, set the main power

3

switch to “”.

XThe sewing light goes off when the machine

is turned off.

2

1

Main power
switch
Jack/socket
connector

• Use only the power cord included with this
machine.

• Do not use extension cords or multi-plug
adapters with many other appliances plugged
in to them. Fire or electric shock may result.

• Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric
shock may result.

• When unplugging the machine, always turn off
the main power first. Always grasp the plug
to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the
cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or
electric shock.

• Do not allow the power cord to be cut,
damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled,
twisted, or bundled.

Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do

not subject the cord to heat. These things may
damage the cord and cause fire or electric
shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the
machine to your authorized dealer for repairs
before continuing use.

• Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to
be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.

•If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the sewing
machine and unplug the power supply cord.

(For U.S.A. only)

•This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade
wider than the other). To reduce the risk of
electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does
not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.

If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician

to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the
plug in any way.

Foot controller

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket.

Foot controller jack/socket

1

9

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

CAUTION

CAUTION

Note

o



o

Changing the needle stop position

• When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.

Depress the foot controller to start sewing, and
adjust the sewing speed by changing the pressing
force.

Slower

Faster

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the
foot controller when the machine is not in use.

• Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build
up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause
a fire or an electric shock.

•When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/

stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only
for models equipped with the start/stop button).

Sewing speed controller (for
models equipped with the start/
stop button)

Slide the sewing speed controller to select

1

the desired sewing speed.

Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the
needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead,
the machine can be set to leave the needle raised
when sewing is stopped.

Turn off the sewing machine.

1

Holding the “–” side of (1) pressed, turn

2

on the sewing machine.

After the sewing machine has turned on,

3

release the “–” side of

XThe needle stop position changes to the

raised position.

(1).

Mem

•Perform the same operation to change the needle
stop position to the lowered position.

Changing the initial needle position

Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected when the sewing machine
is turned on. The initial needle position can be
changed to the straight stitch (center needle position).

Turn off the sewing machine.

1

Holding the “+” side of (2) pressed, turn

2

on the sewing machine.

Slower Faster

Sewing speed controller

1

• Thespeedsetusingthesewingspeed

controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.

10

After the sewing machine has turned on,

3

release the “+” side of

XThe initial needle position changes to the

center needle position.

(2).

Mem

•The specified initial needle position is maintained
after the machine is turned off.

•Perform the same operation to change the initial
needle position to the left needle position.

Cancelling the operation beep

o

CAUTION

CAUTION

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
beep each time a key is pressed. This setting can be
changed so that the machine does not beep.

Turn off the sewing machine.

1

Holding the “–” side of (3) pressed,

2

turn on the sewing machine.



After the sewing machine has turned on,

3

release the “–” side of

XThe machine is now set so that it will not

beep.

(3).

Mem

•Perform the same operation to change the setting
so that machine beeps.

THREADING THE MACHINE

• Only use the bobbin that comes with this
machine or bobbins of the same type (part
code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). Using other
bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
SA156 is Class 15 type bobbin.

Actual size

11. 5 mm

(7/ 16 inch)

This model

Press down on the spool pin lever to swing

1

up the spool pin. Then remove the spool cap.

Spool pin

1

Spool cap

2

Other models

1

Winding the bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto
the bobbin.

•For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page

13.

Bobbin-winding thread guide

1

Bobbin winder shaft

2

Bobbin

3

• Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,
otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.

• Be sure to raise the spool pin when winding
the bobbin. The thread may become tangled if
the bobbin winder is used without raising the
spool pin.

Fully insert the spool of thread for the

2

bobbin, and then slide the spool cap onto the
spool pin.

•The thread should be unwound from the
bottom to the front.

11

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

CAUTION

o

1

56

Note

CAUTION

• If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned
correctly, the thread may become tangled
around the spool pin or the machine may be
damaged.

• Three spool cap sizes are available. Choose a
spool cap that best fits the size of spool being
used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool,
the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or
the machine may be damaged.

Bobbin-winding thread guide

3

Make sure that the thread passes under the
pre-tension disk.

4

Mem

•When sewing with fine, cross-wound
thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a
small space between the cap and the spool.

3

Pass the thread as illustrated bellow.

3

Thread guide

1

2

Spool cap

1

(small)
Spool (cross-

2

wound thread)
Space

3

Hook

4

Pre-tension disk

5

Pull it in as far as possible.

6

•Make sure that the thread is pulled as far as
possible into the pre-tension disk, otherwise
the bobbin may not be wound cleanly.

Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft and

4

slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn
the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the spring
on the shaft slides into the notch in the bobbin.

•Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (2-3/4 to
3-15/16 inches) of thread.

Spring on the shaft

1

Notch

2

7 – 10 cm

3

(3 – 4 inches)

• Pull the thread taut and hold the end of the
thread straight up. If the thread is too short,
not pulled taut or held at an angle, injuries
may occur when the thread is wound around
the bobbin.

Thread guide cover

2

12

Turn on the sewing machine.

5

While holding the end of the thread, gently

6

press the foot controller or press
stop button) (for models equipped with
the start/stop button) to wind the thread
around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the
machine and trim the excess thread.

(start/

Note

•When using the foot controller to operate

CAUTION

o

CAUTION

1

2

the sewing machine, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.

•When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start /stop button).

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Mem

•When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the thread
around the bobbin, the machine will make a
clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

•The needle bar does not move when you slide the
bobbin winding shaft to the right.

1

1 1 cm (3/8 inch)

• Make sure you follow the instructions carefully.
If you do not cut the thread completely, and
the bobbin is wound, when the thread runs
low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause
the needle to break.

(For models equipped with the sewing speed

7

controller)
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast).

Sewing speed

1

controller

Press the foot controller or press to start.

8

1

• Not winding the bobbin properly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, and may break
the needle.

Wound evenly

1

■For models equipped with the fast bobbin
winding system

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft

1

so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin. Then slide the shaft to
the right.

Notch

1

Spring

2

Wound poorly

2

or

When the bobbin seems full and begins

9

spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
controller or press

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

10

to the left and remove the bobbin.

(For models equipped with the sewing speed

11

controller)
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position.

.

Follow steps 1 through 3 of the procedure

2

in “Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread
around the pre-tension disk (page 11).

Wind the free end of the thread clockwise

3

around the bobbin five or six times.

13

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

CAUTION

Note

o

CAUTION

1

2

o

Pull the thread and pass it through the slit in

4

the bobbin winder seat.

Slit (with built-in cutter)

1

XThe thread is cut to a suitable length.

• Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the
bobbin is wound without cutting the thread
using the cutter built into the slit, the thread
may become tangled in the bobbin or the
needle may bend or break when the bobbin
thread starts to run out.

(For models equipped with the sewing speed

5

controller)
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast).

(For models equipped with the sewing speed

10

controller)
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position.

Mem

•When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the thread
around the bobbin, the machine will make a
clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

•The needle bar does not move when you slide the
bobbin winding shaft to the right.

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

•For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 15.

• Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the
thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle
and resulting in injury.

1

Turn on the sewing machine.

6

Press the foot controller or press to start.

7

•When using the foot controller to operate
the sewing machine, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.

•When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start /stop button).

When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take

8

your foot off the foot controller or press

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

9

to the left, and then remove the bobbin from
the shaft.

Sewing speed
controller

.

Wound evenly

1

• Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine. If you accidentally step
on the foot controller and the machine starts
to sew, you could be injured.

Wound poorly

2

Mem

•The direction for feeding
the bobbin thread is
indicated by marks on
the needle plate cover.
Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.

Raise the needle to its highest position

1

by turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) or press
position button) (for models equipped with
the needle position button), and raise the
presser foot lever.

Turn off the sewing machine.

2

(needle

14

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

12

CAUTION

o

12

CAUTION

Slide the button and open the cover.

3

Cover

1

Slide button

2

Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in

4

the direction shown by the arrow.

• Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread
unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause
the thread tension to be incorrect or break the
needle.

■For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

Mem

•The direction for feeding the bobbin thread is
indicated by marks on the needle plate cover. Be
sure to thread the machine as indicated.

Raise the needle to its highest position

1

by turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) or press
presser foot lever.

Turn off the sewing machine.

2

Slide the button and open the cover.

3

, and raise the

Cover

1

Slide button

2

1

Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin

5

down with your finger, and then pass the
thread through the slit, as shown.

•If the thread is not correctly inserted, it may
cause incorrect thread tension (page 28).

Replace the bobbin cover.

6

•Replace the cover so that the end of the
thread comes out from the left side of the
cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).

Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in

4

the direction shown by the arrow.

• Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread
unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause
the thread tension to be incorrect or break the
needle.

While lightly holding down the bobbin, guide

5

the thread through the slit (1 and 2).

•At this time, check that the bobbin easily
rotates counterclockwise.

Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it
with the cutter (3).

15

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Note

1

o

CAUTION

CAUTION

Slit

1

Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

2

•If the thread is not correctly inserted
through the tension-adjusting spring of the
bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread
tension (page 28).

• When threading the upper thread, carefully
follow the instructions. If the upper threading
is not correct, the thread may become tangled
or the needle may bend or break.

• Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.

• Use the needle and the thread in the correct

combination. For details on the correct
combination of needles and threads, refer to
“Needle types and their uses” (page 20).

Turn on the sewing machine.

1

Raise the presser foot, using the presser foot

2

lever.

Presser foot lever

1

Tension-adjusting spring

1

Replace the bobbin cover.

6

Mem

•You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want to
draw up the bobbin thread before you start to
sew, follow to the procedure in “Drawing up the
lower thread” (page 19).

Upper threading

Set the upper thread and thread the needle.

•For details on the needle threader, see page 18.

• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded correctly.

Raise the needle in the following way.

3

or

1 Turn the handwheel so

that the mark on the
wheel points up.

•If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine cannot be threaded. Be
sure to raise the needle before threading the
sewing machine.

Press down on the spool pin lever to swing

4

up the spool pin. Then remove the spool cap.

2 Press the Needle position

button (for the models
equipped with this button).

Spool pin

1

Mark on the handwheel

2

16

Spool pin

1

Spool cap

2

CAUTION

• Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,

CAUTION

o

1

2

otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.

• Be sure to raise the spool pin when winding
the bobbin. The thread may become tangled if
the bobbin winder is used without raising the
spool pin.

Fully insert the spool for the upper thread

5

onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

•The thread should be unwound from the
bottom to the front.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Pass the thread as illustrated below.

6

Thread guide

1

1

• If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned
correctly, the thread may become tangled
around the spool pin or the machine may be
damaged.

• Three spool cap sizes are available. Choose a
spool cap that best fits the size of spool being
used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool,
the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or
the machine may be damaged.

Mem

•When using the spool as shown below, use
the small spool cap, and leave a small space
between the cap and the spool.

3

1 Spool cap

(small)

2 Spool (cross-

wound thread)

3 Space

Thread guide cover

2

Feed the upper thread as illustrated below.

7

Make sure to guide the thread through the

8

thread take-up lever from right to left.

Thread take-up lever

1

17

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

o

CAUTION

Note

CAUTION

Mem

•Iftheneedleisnotraised,thethreadtake­uplevercannotbethreaded.Besureto
raisetheneedlebeforethreadingthesewing
machine.

Put the thread behind the needle bar thread

9

guide.



1

Needlebarthreadguide

1

Turn off the sewing machine.

10

• Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine without using the
needle threader (for models equipped with the
needle threader). If you accidentally step on
the foot controller and the machine starts to
sew, you could be injured.

Thread the needle from front to back and pull

11

out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread.

■Using the needle threader (for models
equipped with the needle threader)

• The needle threader can be used with a 75/11
through 100/16 home sewing machine needle.
However, the needle threader cannot be used
with a 65/9 home sewing machine needle.
When using special thread such as transparent
nylon thread or metallic thread, the needle
threader cannot be used.

• Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or thicker
cannot be used with the needle threader.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle.

• If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to
“Upper threading” (page 16).

Follow steps 1 through 10 of the procedure

1

in “Upper threading”.

Lower the presser foot lever.

2

While lowering the needle threader lever,

3

hook the thread onto the guide.

Needleholder

1

Needlethreader

2

lever
Guide

3

15cm(2inches)

•Ifthethreadtake-upleverislowered,theupper
threadcannotbewrappedaroundthethread
take-uplever.Makesureyouraisethepresserfoot
leverandthethreadtake-upleverbeforeyoufeed
theupperthread.

•Ifyouincorrectlyfeedthethreadyoumaycause
sewingproblems.

18

Fully lower the needle threader lever.

4

XThehookpassesthroughtheeyeofthe

needle,andcatchthethread.

Hook

1

Thread

2

Release the needle threader lever. Then pull

CAUTION

Note

5

the loop of the thread.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

or

Loop of thread

1

• Be careful not to pull on the thread with force

or it may bend the needle.

• If the thread does not pass through the eye of

the needle, start from step 3 again.

Raise the presser foot lever.

6

Presser foot

1

lever

Pass the end of the thread as illustrated

7

below.

1 Turn the handwheel so

that the mark on the
wheel points up.

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the

3

lower thread.

Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both

4

threads and pull them toward the back of the
machine under the presser foot.

2

Press the Needle position
button (for the models
equipped with this button).

1
2

1
2

1

Upper thread
Lower thread

Upper thread
Lower thread

1

•If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause
sewing problems.

Drawing up the lower thread

Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.

1

Upper thread

1

While holding the end of the upper thread,

2

raise the needle in the following way.

5 cm (2 inches)

■For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

You can begin sewing immediately without drawing
up the bobbin thread. When sewing gathers or
darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand
so that some thread will be left over. Before you
draw up the lower thread, put the bobbin back in.

Pass the thread along the slit in the direction

1

of the arrow, and leave it there without
cutting it.

•The bobbin cover should still be removed.

Draw up the lower thread as described in

2

steps 1 to 4.

Replace the bobbin cover.

3

19

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

CAUTION

Note

o

CAUTION

1

2

4

5

REPLACING THE NEEDLE

This section provides information on sewing machine
needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions
concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to
observe these precautions is extremely dangerous.

• Only use home sewing machine needles. Use

of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.

• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can

easily break, possibly resulting in injury.

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used
depends on the fabric and thread thickness.

Fabric Type/

Application

Broadcloth

Medium
weight
fabrics

Thin
fabrics

Thick
fabrics

Stretch
fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

For top-stitching

Flannel,
Gabardine

Lawn

Georgette

Challis, Satin

Denim

Tweed Silk thread
Jersey

Tricot

Thread

Type Size

Cotton
thread

Synthetic
thread

Silk thread 50

Cotton
thread

Synthetic
thread

Silk thread 50
Cotton

thread
Synthetic

thread

Thread for
knits

Cotton
thread

thread
Silk thread 50
Synthetic

thread
Silk thread

60–90

60–90

30 100/ 16
50

50– 60

50– 60

50–90

30 100/ 16

50– 60 75/11–90/14

Size of

Needle

75/11–90/14Taffeta

65/9–75/11

90/14–100/16Corduroy

Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(gold colored)

65/9 – 90/ 14Synthetic

Mem

•The lower the thread number, the thicker the
thread; and the higher the needle number, the
thicker the needle.

■Ball point needle

Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch
fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily
occur.
Use the ball point needle for best results when
sewing patterns using monogramming foot “N”.

■Transparent nylon thread

Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the
fabric or thread.

• The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table on the
left page. If the combination of the fabric,
thread and needle is not correct, particularly
when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with
thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle
may bend or break. In addition, the stitching
may be uneven or puckered or there may be
skipped stitches.

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.

Flat side

1

Needle type

2

marking

Flat surface

3

3

3

Even

4

Not even

5

•Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may
cause malfunctions.

20

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

CAUTION

CAUTION

Note

CAUTION

Replacing the needle

Raise the needle in the following way.

1

or

1 Turn the handwheel so

that the mark on the
wheel points up.

Turn off the sewing machine.

2

• Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off

the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may
occur if the foot controller or the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.

Lower the presser foot lever.

3

2

Press the Needle position
button (for the models
equipped with this button).

•Do not apply strong force when loosening or
tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise
certain parts of the sewing machine may be
damaged.

With the flat side of the needle toward the

5

rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.

Needle stopper

1

Tighten the needle clamp screw by turning it

6

clockwise.

1

Presser foot

1

lever

• Before replacing the needle, place fabric or paper
under the presser foot to prevent the needle from
falling into the hole in the needle plate.

Remove the needle by turning the needle

4

clamp screw counterclockwise.

Disc-shaped screwdriver

1

Needle clamp screw

2

•If the needle clamp screw is loosened too
much, the needle clamp (which holds the
needle) may fall off. Therefore, do not
loosen the needle clamp screw too much.

•Install the twin needle in the same way.

• Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the
needle stopper and securely tighten the needle
clamp screw with the disc-shaped screwdriver,
otherwise the needle may break or damage
may result.

Sewing with the twin needle

You can sew with this needle and two top threads.
You can use the same color or two different colors of
thread for making decorative stitches.

Twin needle

1

Extra spool pin

2

21