
iPhone 6 Plus Audio Control and Rocker
Switch Cable Replacement
Replace the Audio Control and Rocker Switch Cable in your iPhone 6 Plus.
Written By: Walter Galan
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INTRODUCTION
Use this guide to replace the audio control and rocker switch cable.
TOOLS:
Tweezers (1)
P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone (1)
iSclack (1)
iFixit Opening Tools (1)
Suction Handle (1)
iOpener (1)
Plastic Cards (1)
SIM Card Eject Tool (1)
Phillips #000 Screwdriver (1)
PARTS:
iPhone 6 Plus Audio Control Cable (1)
iPhone 6 Plus Upper Cable Bracket (1)
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Step 1 — Pentalobe Screws
Before disassembling your iPhone,
discharge the battery below 25%. A
charged lithium-ion battery can
catch fire and/or explode if
accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before
beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.6 mm P2
Pentalobe screws next to the
Lightning connector.
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Step 2 — iSclack Opening Procedure
The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6
Plus that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack,
skip down two steps.
If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed
for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.
Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.
Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.
Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, near the home button.
Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly
onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may
help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.
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Step 3
Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups,
pulling the front panel up from the rear case.
The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone enough to separate the pieces, but not enough
to damage any of the display cables.
Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 7.
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Step 4 — Front Panel Assembly
If you don't have an iSclack, use a
single suction cup to lift the front
panel:
Press a suction cup onto the
screen, just above the home
button.
Be sure the cup is pressed
securely onto the screen to get a
tight seal.
If your display is badly cracked,
covering it with a layer of clear
packing tape may allow the
suction cup to adhere.
Alternatively, very strong tape
may be used instead of the
suction cup. If all else fails, you
can superglue the suction cup to
the broken screen.
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Step 5
While holding the iPhone down with
one hand, pull up on the suction cup
to slightly separate the front panel
assembly from the rear case.
Take your time and apply firm,
constant force. The display
assembly is a much tighter fit
than most devices.
Using a plastic opening tool, begin
to gently pry the rear case down,
away from the display assembly,
while continuing to pull up with the
suction cup.
There are several clips attaching the
front panel assembly to the rear
case, so you may need to use a
combination of the suction cup and
plastic opening tool to free the front
panel assembly.
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Step 6
Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Step 7
Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the
phone as a hinge.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while
you're working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue
strain on the display cables.
In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.
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Step 8
Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge, allowing the front panel
assembly to swing open like a book.
During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front
panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
Step 9
Remove the following Phillips
screws from the battery connector
bracket:
One 2.3 mm screw
One 3.1 mm screw
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Step 10
Remove the metal battery connector
bracket from the iPhone.
Step 11
Use a clean fingernail or the edge of
an opening tool to gently pry the
battery connector up from its socket
on the logic board.
Take care to only pry up on the
battery connector, and not the
socket on the logic board. If you pry
up on the logic board socket, you
may break the connector entirely.
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Step 12
Remove the following Phillips
screws securing the front panel
assembly cable bracket:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw
One 2.9 mm screw
Do not attempt to insert longer
screws into the red marked screw
holes. Doing so may result in
irreparable damage to the logic
board.
Step 13
Remove the front panel assembly
cable bracket from the logic board.
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Step 14
In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets
on the logic board.
While still supporting the front panel, use a fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to disconnect
the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector.
Step 15
Disconnect the home button cable connector.
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Step 16
Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.
When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result
in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply
reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to
disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
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Step 17
Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end
of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the
component and cause digitizer damage.
Step 18
Remove the front panel assembly
from the rear case.
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Step 19 — Battery
Peel back the first battery adhesive
tab from the bottom right edge of the
battery.
Use your fingers or blunt tweezers.
Be extra careful when working near
the battery; puncturing a lithium-ion
battery can release dangerous
chemicals and cause a fire.
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Step 20
Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together
and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
Very slowly, pull and stretch one adhesive strip away from the battery, toward the bottom of the
iPhone.
Allow the strip to stretch out before pulling any harder. If you can't feel it stretching, ease up, or
it will break.
Pull at as low of an angle as you can without snagging the adhesive strip on any of the
components along the lower edge of the phone.
Don't press down on the battery as you pull the strip.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling slowly until it releases and
slips out from underneath the battery.
If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers
to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove
the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.
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Step 21
Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the other side of the battery.
Again, pull and slowly stretch the adhesive tab to slide it out from between the battery and the rear
case.
Continue pulling the adhesive tab until it releases completely from the battery. If it breaks, try to
retrieve the remaining length and continue pulling, or proceed as instructed below.
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Step 22
Peel back the final battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery. Gently pull the battery
adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from
between the battery and the rear case.
Place one hand over the battery as the final strip comes out, or it may fling the battery out of the
iPhone.
Continue pulling until the final strip comes free from the iPhone.
If you removed all three adhesive strips successfully, continue to step 24. Otherwise, if the
adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, apply a few drops of high
concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken
adhesive strip(s).
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a
spudger to gently lift the battery.
Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to
further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
Do not pry against the logic board, or you may permanently damage your iPhone. Do not pry
under the topmost section of the battery, near the volume up button and mute switch, or you
may damage the audio controls cable, which is adhered to the rear case just beneath the
battery.
For alternative methods to unstick the battery, continue with the next step below .
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Step 23 — Alternative methods to unstick the battery from the case
If the battery remains stuck to the
rear case, prepare an iOpener or
use a hair dryer to heat the rear
case directly behind the battery.
Then, use a plastic opening tool
to gently lift the battery.
Overheating the iPhone may
ignite the battery.
Alternatively, a piece of dental floss
may be used to separate the battery
from the rear case. A stronger
alternative to dental floss is an
unwound guitar string, such as a
0.009 E string from a 12-string set.
Thread the floss or string
underneath one end of the battery
and pull side to side in a sawing
motion to separate the adhesive.
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Step 24
Remove the battery from the
iPhone.
If your replacement battery came in
a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve
before installation by pulling it away
from the the ribbon cable.
If there's any alcohol solution
remaining in the phone, carefully
wipe it off or allow it to air dry before
installing your new battery.
Before you adhere the replacement
battery, temporarily reconnect the
battery connector to the logic board
socket. This ensures that the battery
is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it,
and continue reassembling your
device.
If your new battery doesn’t have
adhesive preinstalled, refer to this
guide to replace the adhesive strips.
Perform a hard reset after
reassembly. This can prevent
several issues and simplify
troubleshooting.
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Step 25 — Antenna Assembly
Remove the following screws
securing the antenna bracket to the
rear case:
One 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw
One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw
Step 26
Grasp the antenna bracket with a
pair of tweezers and lift it off the
iPhone.
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Step 27
Carefully pry the antenna connector
up off the logic board with a plastic
opening tool.
Step 28
Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and gently lift it from its retaining clip on the
logic board.
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Step 29
The two connectors may be coupled by a single adhesive tab. If this is the case, then they may
detach as a pair.
Disconnect the power button cable and audio control cable connectors from their respective
sockets on the logic board.
Step 30
Remove the following screws
securing the top cellular antenna to
the rear case:
One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw
Two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Step 31
Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the top cellular antenna out of the iPhone.
During reassembly, make sure to place the small washer in the top left corner of the antenna
assembly.
Step 32 — Audio Control and Rocker Switch Cable
Use a pair of tweezers to peel the single adhesive tab that resides on top of both the power button
and audio control/rocker switch cable connectors.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Step 33
Remove the following screws
securing the audio control and
rocker switch cable to the rear case:
Two 2.0 mm Phillips #00 screws
One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw
Step 34
Grasp the audio control and rocker switch cable with a pair of tweezers.
Slowly peel the audio control and rocker switch cable off the rear case.
Peel with care. The cable is secured to the rear case with mild adhesive.
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