INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSOWNER’S GUIDE &
Thru-Hull, Depth
Transducer
Low Profile, Flush, and Retractable Models
WARNING: Always wear safety goggles and a dust
mask when installing to avoid personal injury.
WARNING: Immediately check for leaks when the
boat is placed in the water. Do not leave the boat
unchecked for more than three hours. Even a small
17-006-01 rev. 11 01/26/11
leak may allow considerable water to accumulate.
WARNING: Retractable models—The O-rings must
be intact and well lubricated to make a watertight seal.
WARNING: Retractable models—Always attach the
safety wire to prevent the insert or blanking plug from
backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails
or is screwed on incorrectly.
WARNING: B117 and P319—Do not use the spacer
if there is insufficient space to tighten the nut or it is
within 11mm (1/2") of the top of the housing.
WARNING: Stainless steel housing in metal hull—
Be sure the washer contacts the hull. Do not tighten
the hull nut with the washer against the isolation
bushing, as the housing will not be firmly installed. If
necessary, sand the isolation bushing until the washer
rests against the hull.
CAUTION: Never pull, carry, or hold the transducer by
its cable; this may sever internal connections.
CAUTION: Never use solvents. Cleaners, fuel,
sealants, paint, and other products may contain strong
solvents, such as acetone, which attack many
plastics, greatly reducing their strength.
CAUTION: Plastic housing—Never use a fairing with
a plastic housing; the protruding sensor would be
vulnerable to damage from impact.
CAUTION: Metal housing—Never install a metal
housing on a vessel with a positive ground system.
CAUTION: Stainless steel housing in metal hull—
Stainless steel must be isolated from a metal hull to
prevent electrolytic corrosion. Use the isolation
bushing supplied.
IMPORTANT: Read the instructions completely
before proceeding with the installation. These
instructions supersede any other instructions in your
instrument manual if they differ.
Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.
Part No._________________Date___________Frequency________kHz
low profile
P319
retractable
low profile
B17
flush
P219
Applications
• Plastic housing recommended for fiberglass or metal hull only.
Never install a plastic transducer in a wood hull, since swelling
of the wood can possibly fracture the plastic.
• Bronze housing recommended for fiberglass or wood hull.
Never install a bronze housing in an aluminum hull, because
electrolytic corrosion will occur.
• Stainless steel housing compatible with all hull materials.
Recommended for aluminum hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion
provided the stainless steel housing is isolated from the metal hull.
• Accommodates up to a 20° deadrise angle.
Tools & Materials
Safety goggles
Dust mask
Electric drill with 10mm (3/8") or larger chuck capacity
Drill bit: 3mm or 1/8"
Hole saw (see table opposite)
Countersink tool (installing a flush housing)
Sandpaper
Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)
File (installation in a metal hull)
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)
Additional washer [for aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4") thick]
Slip-joint pliers (installing a metal housing)
Grommet(s) (some installations)
Cable ties
Water-based anti-fouling paint (mandatory in salt water)
Installation in a cored fiberglass hull (see page 4):
Hole saw for hull interior: (see table on this page)
Fiberglass cloth and resin
or Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy
Identify Your Model
The model name is printed on the cable tag.
Model
(Housing)
Low Profile:
B22, B117,
P19, P319
P5 161mm 6-3/8”) 51 mm or 2" 60 mm or 2-3/8"
Flush:
B21, P219, P269
Retractable:
B17, B21
P17, P217, P314
Retractable:
SS577
Minimum
Headroom
95 mm (3-3/4") 51 mm or 2" 60 mm or 2-3/8"
100 mm (4") 51 mm or 2" 60 mm or 2-3/8"
200 mm (8") 51 mm or 2" 60 mm or 2-3/8"
200 mm (8")
Outside Hull
Hole Saw Size
51 mm or 2"
in a fiberglass or
wood hull
57 mm or 2-1/4"
in a metal hull
Cored Fiberglass Hull
Hull Interior
Hole Saw Size
60 mm or 2-3/8"
large displacement hulls
outboard and I/O
fin keel sailboats
planing hulls
small displacement hulls
stepped hull
Installation
Hole Drilling
Cored fiberglass hull—Follow separate instructions on page 4.
1. Drill a 3 mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib,
strut, or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting
location, drill from the outside.
2. Using the appropriate size outside hull hole saw, cut a hole
perpendicular to the hull from outside the boat (see table on page 1).
Flush housing—Use a countersink tool to make a “seat” in the hull.
3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to
ensure that the marine sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If
there is any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with
either mild household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol)
before sanding.
Metal hull—Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.
full keel sailboats
Figure 1.
Best location for transducer
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technolog y Corp.
Mounting Location
CAUTION: Do not mount near water intake or discharge openings
or behind strakes, fittings, or hull irregularities.
• The water flowing under the hull must be smooth with a
minimum of bubbles and turbulence (especially at high speeds).
• The transducer must be continuously immersed in water.
• The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or
propeller shaft(s).
• Choose a location away from interference caused by power and
radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other
machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower
the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that
can be used.
• Choose a location with a minimal deadrise angle, so the
transducer beam will be aimed at the bottom.
• Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with adequate
headroom for the height of the housing, tightening the nuts, and
removing any insert (see the table below).
Hull Types (see Figure 1)
• Displacement hull powerboats—Locate amidships near the
centerline. The starboard side of the hull where the propeller
blades are moving downward is preferred.
• Planing hull powerboats—Mount well aft, on or near the
centerline, and well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to
ensure that the transducer will be in contact with the water at
high speeds. The starboard side of the hull where the propeller
blades are moving downward is preferred.
Outboard and I/O—Mount just forward of the engine(s).
Inboard—Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s).
Stepped hull—Mount just ahead of the first step.
Boat capable of speeds above 25kn (29 MPH)—Review the
installation location and operating results of similar boats before
proceeding.
• Fin keel sailboats—Mount on or near the centerline and
forward of the fin keel 300 – 600 mm (1–2').
• Full keel sailboats—Locate amidships and away from the keel
at the point of minimum deadrise.
2
Bedding
CAUTION; Be sure the surfaces to be bedded are clean and dry.
Apply a 2mm (1/16") thick layer of marine sealant around the
flange of the housing that will contact the hull and up the sidewall
of the housing (see Figure 2). The sealant must extend 6mm
(1/4") higher than the combined thickness of the hull, washer, any
spacer, and the hull nut. This will ensure there is sealant in the
threads to seal the hull and to hold the hull nut securely in place.
Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—The stainless steel
housing must be isolated from the metal hull to prevent electrolytic
corrosion. Slide the isolation bushing onto the housing (see
Figure 3). Apply additional marine sealant to the surfaces of the
bushing that will contact the hull, filling any cavities in and around
the bushing.
Installing
NOTE: Ignore any arrows on the housing, insert, and blanking plug.
1. From outside the hull, push the housing into the mounting hole
using a twisting motion to squeeze out excess marine sealant.
2. From inside the hull, slide the washer onto the housing (see
Figure 2).
B117 and P319—Also slide the spacer onto the housing and
rest it against the washer. Do not use the spacer if there is
insufficient space to tighten the nut or it is within 11 mm (1/2") of
the top of the housing.
Aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4") thick—If necessary, use
an additional rubbery, fiberglass, or plastic washer. Never use
bronze since electrolytic corrosion will occur. Never use wood
since it will swell, possibly fracturing the plastic housing.
Stainless steel transducer in metal hull—Be sure the washer
contacts the hull. Do not tighten the hull nut with the washer
against the isolation bushing, as the housing will not be firmly
installed. If necessary, sand the isolation bushing until the
washer rests against the hull (see Figure 3).
3. Screw the hull nut in place.
Plastic housing—If your housing has wrenching flats, do not
clamp tightly possibly causing the housing to fracture.
Plastic hull nut—Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
Metal hull nut—Tighten with slip-joint pliers.
Cored Fiberglass Hull—Do not over tighten, crushing the hull.
Wood hull—Allow the wood to swell before tightening the hull nut.
4. Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull to
ensure smooth water flow over the transducer.
plastic, bronze, or stainless steel housing
fiberglass hull
(P319/ B117 shown)
housing
hull nut
(plastic/metal)
spacer
washer
hull
flush housing
retractable insert
(P217 shown)
pull ring
transducer insert
safety wire
cap nut
housing
hull nut
washer
hull
fiberglass or wood hullfiberglass or wood hull
metal housing
retractable insert
(B17 shown)
pull ring
transducer insert
safety wire
cap nut (plastic)
housing
hull nut
washer
hull
marine sealant on flange and
side wall of housing
marine sealant on flange and
side wall of housing
Figure 2. Bedding and installing
Copyright © 2006 - 2010 Airmar Tech nology Corp.
Retractable Models
1. After the marine sealant cures, inspect the O-rings on the
transducer insert (replace if necessary) and lubricate them with
the silicone lubricant supplied. The O-rings must be intact and
well lubricated to make a watertight seal.
2. Slide the insert into the housing. Seat the insert into place with a
twisting motion until the key fits into the notch. Be careful not to
rotate the housing and disturb the marine sealant. Screw the
cap nut in place and hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
D/DT800—Be sure the insert is fully inserted into the housing.
Screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are engaged.
Continue to tighten the cap nut completely for a watertight seal.
3. Attach the safety wire to prevent the insert from backing out in
the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is screwed on
incorrectly (see Figure 2 or 3).
Plastic housing—Attach the safety wire to one eye in the hull nut.
Keeping the wire taut throughout, lead the wire in a
counterclockwise direction and thread it through one eye in the cap
nut, the pull ring/eye in the insert, the second eye in the cap nut,
and the second eye in the hull nut. Twist the wire securely to itself.
Metal housing—Wrap one end of the safety wire tightly around
the housing and twist it together with the long end. Keeping the
wire taut throughout, lead the wire straight up and through the
eye in the cap nut. Loop the wire through the pull ring/eye in the
insert and twist it securely to itself.
Cable Routing & Connecting
CAUTION: If your transducer came with a connector, do not
remove it to ease cable routing. If the cable must be cut and
spliced, use Airmar’s splash-proof Junction Box No. 33-035 and
follow the instructions provided. Removing the waterproof
connector or cutting the cable, except when using a water-tight
junction box, will void the sensor warranty.
1. Route the cable to the instrument, being careful not to tear the
cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other
parts of the boat. Use grommets to prevent chafing. To reduce
electrical interference, separate the transducer cable from other
electrical wiring and the engine. Coil any excess cable and
secure it in place using cable ties to prevent damage.
2. Refer to the echosounder owner’s manual to connect the
transducer to the instrument.
marine sealant on flange and
side wall of housing
Checking for Leaks
When the boat is placed in the water, immediately check around
the thru-hull transducer for leaks. Note that very small leaks may
not be readily observed. Do not leave the boat in the water for
more than 3 hours before checking it again. If there is a small
leak, there may be considerable bilge water accumulation after 24
hours. If a leak is observed, repeat “Bedding” and “Installing”
immediately (see page 2).
Installation in a Cored Fiberglass Hull
The core (wood or foam) must be cut and sealed carefully. The
core must be protected from water seepage, and the hull must be
reinforced to prevent it from crushing under the hull nut allowing
the housing to become loose.
CAUTION: Completely seal the hull to prevent water seepage into
the core.
1. Drill a 3 mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib, strut,
or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting location, drill from
the outside. (If the hole is drilled in the wrong location, drill a second hole
in a better location. Apply masking tape to the outside of the hull over the
incorrect hole and fill it with epoxy.)
stainless steel housing in a metal hull
marine sealant on flange and
and isolation bushing where it contacts hull
Figure 3. Bedding and installing
Copyright © 2006 - 2011 Airmar Techn ology Corp.
(SS577 shown)
sidewall of housing
insert
cap nut
(plastic)
safety wire
housing
hull nut
washer
hull
(metal)
isolation
bushing
3
9-12 mm
pour in
casting
epoxy
hull thickness
(3/8- 1/2")
larger than the
hole through the
hull’s outer skin
inner skin
core
outer skinsolid or hollow cylinder
Figure 4. Preparing a cored fiberglass hull
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technol ogy Corp.
2. Using the appropriate size outside hull hole saw, cut a hole from outside
the hull through the outer skin only (see table on page 1) (see Figure 4).
3. From inside the hull using the appropriate size hull interior hole saw, cut
through the inner skin and most of the core (see table on page 1). The core
material can be very soft. Apply only light pressure to the hole saw after
cutting through the inner skin to avoid accidentally cutting the outer skin.
4. Remove the plug of core material, so the inside of the outer skin and the
inner core of the hull is fully exposed. Sand and clean the inner skin,
core, and the outer skin around the hole.
5. If you are skilled with fiberglass, saturate a layer of fiberglass cloth with
a suitable resin and lay it inside the hole to seal and strengthen the
core. Add layers until the hole is the correct diameter.
Alternatively, a hollow or solid cylinder of the correct diameter can be
coated with wax and taped in place. Fill the gap between the cylinder and
hull with casting epoxy. After the epoxy has set, remove the cylinder.
6. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to ensure
that the marine sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is any
petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild household
detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.
7. Proceed with “Bedding” and “Installing” on page 2.
Maintenance, Parts & Replacement
Anti-fouling Paint
Surfaces exposed to salt water must be coated with anti-fouling
paint. Use water-based anti-fouling paint only. Never use ketone
based anti-fouling paint, since ketones can attack many plastics
possibly damaging the transducer. Apply anti-fouling paint every 6
months or at the beginning of each boating season.
Retractable models—Paint the following surfaces:
• Outside wall of the insert below lower O-ring and exposed end
• Bore of the housing up 30 mm (1-1/4”)
• Exterior flange of the housing
• Blanking plug below the lower O-ring including the exposed end
Cleaning
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the transducer’s
surface, reducing its performance within weeks. Clean the surface
with a Scotch-Brite® scour pad and mild household detergent,
being careful to avoid making scratches. If the fouling is severe,
lightly wet sand it with fine grade wet/dry paper.
Retractable Models: Blanking Plug
1. The O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a
watertight seal. On the blanking plug, inspect the O-rings
(replace if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone
lubricant supplied or petroleum jelly (Vaseline®).
2. Remove the transducer insert from the housing by removing the
safety wire and unscrewing the cap nut (see Figure 2).
3. With the blanking plug ready in one hand, pull the transducer
insert most of the way out. Remove the insert and rapidly
replace it with the blanking plug. Seat it into place with a
pushing twisting motion until the key fits into the notch in the
housing. With practice, only 250ml (10 oz.) of water will enter the
boat. Screw the cap nut in place and hand tighten only. Do not
over tighten.
D/DT800—Being sure the blanking plug is fully inserted into the
housing, screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are
engaged. Continue to tighten the cap nut completely for a
watertight seal. Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
4. Reattach the safety wire to prevent the blanking plug from
backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is
screwed on incorrectly.
Retractable Models: O-rings
O-rings must be free of abrasions and cuts to ensure a watertight
seal. On the insert and blanking plug, inspect the O-rings (replace
if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone lubricant
supplied or petroleum jelly (Vaseline®).
Retractable Models: Winterizing
After the boat has been hauled for winter storage, remove the
blanking plug to let the water drain away before reinserting it. This
will prevent any water from freezing around the blanking plug and
possibly cracking it.
Replacement Transducer & Parts
The information needed to order a replacement Airmar transducer
is printed on the cable tag. Do not remove this tag. When
ordering, specify the part number, date, and frequency in kHz. For
convenient reference, record this information on the top of page one.
Lost, broken, or worn parts should be replaced immediately.
D/DT800 O-rings 33-519-01
Model
B17
B21
B22
B117
P5 04-002
P17 33-417 (plastic, low profile) 04-004 04-234-1 (plastic) 33-414
P19
P219
P269
P217
P314
P319 04-646-01 (spacer) 04-004 — —
SS577
Housing Kit, Washer,
Spacer, or Isolation Bushing
33-100 (bronze, low profile)
33-224-01 (bronze, flush)
04-646-01 (spacer) 02-030 — —
—04-004——
33-217 (plastic, flush)
33-092-01 (plastic, flush)
33-495-01 (stainless steel,
04-186-1 (bushing)
low profile)
Hull Nut Cap Nut
02-030
04-004 04-234-1 (plastic) 33-414
20-570-01 04-234-1 (plastic) 33-414
04-234-1 (plastic)
02-131-01 (bronze)
Obtain parts from your instrument manufacturer or marine dealer.
Gemeco Tel: 803-693-0777
(USA) Fax: 803-693-0477
email: sales@gemeco.com
Airmar EMEA Tel: +33.(0)2.23.52.06.48
(Europe, Middle East, Africa) Fax: +33.(0)2.23.52.06.49
email: sales@airmar-emea.com
Blanking
Plug
33-414
®
AIRMAR
4
TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION
35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA
www.airmar.com
Copyright © 2006 - 2011 Airmar Technology Corp. All rights reserved.
Loading...