INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSOWNER’ S GUIDE &
Thru-Hull: 1kW with Temperature Sensor
Tilted Element™ Depth Transducer
Tilt Angles: 0°, 12°, 20°
Models: B164, B175H, B175HW, B175L, B175M,
SS164, SS175H, SS175HW, SS175L, SS175M
Pairs: B264N, B264W, SS264N, SS264W
U.S. Patent No. 7,369,45; 8,582,393. UK Patent No. 2 414 077
Follow the precautions below for optimal
product performance and to reduce the risk of
property damage, personal injury, and/or death.
WARNING: Always install the two set screws with
marine sealant applied to the threads. This will hold
17-458-01 rev. 09 04/22/15
the hull nut firmly in place. Failure to do so may allow
the hull nut to become loose.
WARNING: Always wear safety goggles and a dust
mask when installing.
WARNING: Immediately check for leaks when the
boat is placed in the water. Do not leave the boat
unchecked for more than three hours. Even a small
leak may allow considerable water to accumulate.
WARNING: Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—
Be sure the washer contacts the hull. Do not tighten
the hull nut with the washer against the isolation
bushing, as the housing will not be firmly installed. If
necessary, sand the isolation bushing until the washer
rests against the hull.
CAUTION: CHIRP transducer—Do not install in the
engine compartment or other hot place. The
transducer may fail if it overheats.
CAUTION: CHIRP transducer—Always operate the
transducer in water. Operating in air will allow the
transducer to overheat resulting in failure.
CAUTION: The arrow on the top of the transducer
must point toward the keel or centerline of the boat.
This will align the angle of the element inside the
transducer with the deadrise angle of your hull.
CAUTION: Never install a metal transducer on a
vessel with a positive ground system.
CAUTION: Never pull, carry, or hold the transducer by
its cable; this may sever internal connections.
CAUTION: Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—
Stainless steel housing must be isolated from a metal
hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion. Use the isolation
bushing supplied.
CAUTION: Never use solvents. Cleaner, fuel, sealant,
paint, and other products may contain solvents that can
damage plastic parts, especially the transducer’s face.
IMPORTANT: For optimal performance, apply marine
sealant to the entire inside surface of the spacer. This
will fill the gap between the spacer and the sidewall of
the transducer preventing vibration.
IMPORTANT: Read the instructions completely
before proceeding with the installation. These
instructions supersede any other instructions in your
instrument manual if they differ.
Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.
Part No._________________Date___________Frequency________kHz
Applications
• Bronze housing recommended for fiberglass or wood hulls.
Never install a bronze housing in an aluminum hull, because
electrolytic corrosion will occur.
• Stainless steel housing compatible with all hull materials.
Recommended for metal hulls to prevent electrolytic corrosion
provided the stainless steel housing is isolated from the metal hull.
Match Tilt Angle of Transducer to Deadrise
Be sure your transducer model matches the deadrise angle of
your hull at the selected mounting location. The tilt angle is printed
on the top of the transducer (see Figure 1). To measure the
deadrise angle of your hull at the selected mounting location, use
an angle finder or a digital level (see Figure 2).
• 0° transducer for deadrise angles from 0° to 7°
• 12° transducer for deadrise angles from 8° to 15°
• 20° transducer for deadrise angles from 16° to 24°
tilt angle
Figure 1. Top of transducer (0° model shown)
Copyright © 2008 - 2012 Airmar Technol ogy Corp.
transom view
Figure 2. Deadrise angle of the hull
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technol ogy Corp.
slope of hull
deadrise angle
parallel to waterline
Tools & Materials
Safety goggles
Dust mask
Angle finder
Electric drill with 10mm (3/8") or larger chuck capacity
Drill bit: 3mm or 1/8"
Hole saw: 95mm or 3-3/4" (fiberglass or wood hull)
105 mm or 4" (metal hull)
Grinder (some installations)
Sandpaper
Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)
File (installation in a metal hull)
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)
Allen wrench: 3/16"
Slip-joint pliers
Grommet(s) (some installations)
Cable ties
Water-based anti-fouling paint (mandatory in salt water)
Installation in a cored fiberglass hull (see page 4):
Hole saw for hull interior: 115mm or 4-1/2"
Fiberglass cloth and resin
or Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy
• Outboard and I/O—Mount just forward of the engine(s).
• Inboard—Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s).
• Stepped hull—Mount just ahead of the first step.
• Boat capable of speeds above 25kn (29MPH)—Review the
installation location and operating results of similar boats before
proceeding.
Installation
Hole Drilling & Dry Fitting
Cored fiberglass hull—Follow separate instructions on page 4.
1. From inside the hull, using the hull nut as a guide to ensure
ample space, mark the center point. Then drill a 3mm or 1/8"
pilot hole. If there is a rib, strut, or other hull irregularity near the
selected mounting location, drill from the outside.
2. Using a 95mm or 3-3/4" hole saw, cut a hole from outside of the
hull perpendicular to the hull surface. It may be necessary to
enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or file.
Mounting Location
CAUTION: Do not mount in line with or near water intake or
discharge openings, or behind strakes, fittings, or hull
irregularities that will disturb the water flow.
• The water flowing under the hull must be smooth with a
minimum of bubbles and turbulence (especially at high speeds).
• The transducer must be continuously immersed in water.
• The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or
propeller shaft(s).
• Choose a location away from interference caused by power and
radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other
machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower
the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that
can be used.
• Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with a minimum of
178 mm (7") of space for the height of the housing, installing the
spacer, and tightening the nut and set screws.
• CHIRP transducer—Mount in a cool well-ventilated area away
from the engine to avoid overheating.
• Pairs—Mount the transducers across from one another on
opposite sides of the centerline (keel) (see Figure 4).
Boat Types (see Figure 3)
Planing hull powerboats—Mount well aft, near the centerline,
and well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to ensure that the
transducer will be in contact with the water at high speeds. The
starboard side of the hull where the propeller blades are moving
downward is preferred.
Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—Use a 105 mm or 4"
hole saw to accommodate the isolation bushing. It may be
necessary to enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or file.
3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to
ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is
any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild
household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.
Metal hull—Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.
4. Dry fit the transducer to determine if the spacer must be cut.
From outside the hull, push the housing through the mounting hole
(see Figure 5). From inside, slide one of the washers onto the
housing. Slide the spacer onto the housing with the open end
facing the hull. Add the remaining washer. Be sure a minimum
of THREE threads are showing on the housing above the
washer. If not, cut the spacer to make it shorter. When cutting
the spacer, be sure to cut the open end (see Figure 6).
pigtail
2
outboard and I/O
stepped hull
Figure 3. Best location for the transducer
Copyright © 2007 - 2011 Airmar Technol ogy Corp.
inboard
200kHz 50kHz
Figure 4. Connecting a Pair—single transmission line
Copyright © 2008 Airmar Technolog y Corp.