Whirlpool WET4027HW Technical Specs

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

Voltage Measurement Safety Information

When performing live voltage measurements, you must do the following:

 Verify the controls are in the off position so that the appliance does not start when energized.  Allow enough space to perform the voltage measurements without obstructions.  Keep other people a safe distance away from the appliance to prevent potential injury.  Always use the proper testing equipment.  After voltage measurements, always disconnect power before servicing.

IMPORTANT: Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) Sensitive Electronics

ESD problems are present everywhere. Most people begin to feel an ESD discharge at approximately 3000V. It takes as little as 10V to destroy, damage, or weaken the main control assembly. The new main control assembly may appear to work well after repair is ﬁnished, but a malfunction may occur at a later date due to ESD stress.

 Use an anti-static wrist strap. Connect wrist strap to green ground connection point or

unpainted metal in the appliance

-OR Touch your ﬁnger repeatedly to a green ground connection point or unpainted metal

in the appliance.

 Before removing the part from its package, touch the anti-static bag to a green ground

connection point or unpainted metal in the appliance.

 Avoid touching electronic parts or terminal contacts; handle electronic control assembly

by edges only.

 When repackaging main control assembly in anti-static bag, observe above instructions.

This service data sheet is intended for use by persons having electrical, electronic, and mechanical experience and knowledge at a level generally considered acceptable in the appliance repair trade. Any attempt to repair a major appliance may result in personal injury and property damage. The manufacturer or seller cannot be responsible, nor assume any liability for injury or damage of any kind arising from the use of this data sheet.

Contents

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE — “For Technicians only”

Diagnostic Guide ......................................... 2

Activating the Service Diagnostic

Test Modes (Washer) .................................. 2

Diagnostic Test Modes (Washer) ............. 3–5

Customer Viewable Fault Codes (Washer) ....5

Fault/Error Codes (Washer) ..................... 6, 7

Automatic Test Mode (Washer) .................... 8

Manual Test Mode (Washer) ........................ 9

PART NO. W11082888C

Washer Troubleshooting Guide ............ 10, 11

Washer Troubleshooting Tests ............. 12–18

Washer Main Control Connectors & Pinouts ..12

Dryer Troubleshooting Guide ..................... 19

Dryer Troubleshooting Tests ................ 20–24

Component Locations &

Washer Speciﬁcations ............................... 25

Wiring and Timer Diagrams ................. 26–28

PAGE 1

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE

Before servicing, check the following:

Make sure there is power at the wall outlet. Has a household fuse blown or circuit breaker

tripped? Was a regular fuse used? Inform customer that a time-delay fuse is required.

Is dryer vent properly installed and clear

of lint or obstructions?

Are both hot and cold water faucets open

and water supply hoses unobstructed?

Make sure drain hose is not sealed into

drain pipe, and that there is an air gap for ventilation. Ensure drain height is between 39" (991 mm) and 8' (2.4 m) above the ﬂoor.

All tests/checks should be made with a

VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter) or DVM (digital-voltmeter) having a sensitivity of 20,000 Ω per volt DC or greater.

Resistance checks must be made with washer/

dryer unplugged or power disconnected.

IMPORTANT: Avoid using large

diameter probes when checking harness connectors as the probes may damage the connectors upon insertion.

Check all harnesses and connections before

replacing components. Look for connectors not fully seated, broken or loose wires and terminals, or wires not pressed into connectors far enough to engage metal barbs.

A potential cause of a control not

functioning is corrosion or contamination on connections. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity across suspected connections.

ACTIVATING THE SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES (WASHER)

1. Be sure the washer/dryer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off).

NOTE: After initial power is applied, wait 10 seconds before activating Service Diagnostic Test Modes.

2. Perform the following sequence of movement using the cycle selector knob. NOTE: AFTER RESET, sequence “a” through “e” must be completed within 6 seconds.

RESET - Rotate cycle selector knob



  





counterclockwise one or more clicks to clear sequence.

a. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise

one click and wait ½ second.

b. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise

one click and wait ½ second.

c. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise

one click and wait ½ second.

d. Rotate cycle selector knob

counterclockwise one click and wait ½ second.

e. Rotate cycle selector knob

clockwise one click.

DIAGNOSTIC LED – MAIN CONTROL (WASHER)

A troubleshooting tool has been implemented onto the main control board—a diagnostic LED. LED ON – The Control is detecting correct incoming line voltage and the processor is functioning. LED OFF – Control malfunction. Perform TEST #1: Main Control, page 12, to verify main control functionality.

LED Location

Figure 1

SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES (WASHER)

These tests allow factory or service personnel to test and verify all inputs to the main control board. You may want to do a quick and overall checkup of the washer with these tests before going to speciﬁc troubleshooting tests.

PAGE 2

Successful activation of Diagnostic Test

Modes will be indicated by all status LEDs (except for Lid Lock) ﬂashing ON and OFF in half-second intervals. NOTE: LED names may vary between makes and models.

Legend: = ON = OFF

0.5 Seconds ON

Sense Wash Rinse Drain Done Fill Spin

0.5 Seconds OFF

Figure 2 - Status LEDs ﬂashing ON and OFF

 If the status LEDs do not display as

described above, the sequence may not have been completed within 6 seconds. Repeat step 2 to ensure this was not the cause. If still unsuccessful, see Unsuccessful Entry, page 3.

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES

3. There are several accessible Diagnostic Test Modes shown in the chart below. To select the desired Mode of Operation, turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs match the mode desired to enter.

MODE

(Status LED names may vary

between makes and models)

Fault Code Display Mode Automatic Test Mode Manual Test Mode Calibration Mode Sales Demo Mode UI Test Mode SW Version Display Mode Factory Diagnostics Mode Tachometer Ve rification

Dry Factory Diagnostics Factory Cal Test Cycle AATCC Cycle NVH Cycle

STATUS LEDs

WASH

RINSE

DRAIN

SPIN

DISPLAY

(Only on models

with a display)

DONE

02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 14 15

4. Press the START button to enter desired mode of operation.

Refer to the following pages for detailed information on each mode of operation:



FAULT CODE DISPLAY MODE: Page 3



AUTOMATIC TEST MODE: Page 4



MANUAL TEST MODE: Page 4



CALIBRATION MODE: Page 4



SALES DEMO: NOT FOR SERVICE USE*



UI TEST MODE: Page 4



SW VERSION DISPLAY MODE: Page 5



FACTORY DIAGNOSTICS: NOT FOR SERVICE USE.* If accessed, washer must be recalibrated (see Calibration Mode)



TACHOMETER VERIFICATION MODE: Page 5



DRY FACTORY DIAGNOSTICS: NOT FOR SERVICE USE*



FACTORY CAL TEST CYCLE: NOT FOR SERVICE USE*



AATCC CYCLE: NOT FOR SERVICE USE*



NVH CYCLE: NOT FOR SERVICE USE*

*Press and hold START for 3 seconds to exit.

Unsuccessful Entry

If entry into diagnostic test mode is unsuccessful, refer to the following indication and action:

Indication: None of the LEDs turn on. Action: Press START button to enter setting mode.

 If indicators come on, repeat steps

1 through 4 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Modes. NOTE: Rotating the dial too fast or too slow will affect entry.

 If no indicators come on after pressing the

START button, go to TEST #1, page 12.

EXITING THE SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES

Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds at any time to exit diagnostic test modes.

Washer will exit diagnostic test modes after 5 minutes of inactivity or unplugging the power cord.

FAULT CODE DISPLAY MODE (Pgs 6–7)

To access fault/error codes, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:

“Done” LED On

Sense Wash Rinse Drain Done Fill Spin

Press the START button to enter Fault Code Display Mode. The status LEDs ﬂash on and off.

1. To view last four fault codes:



Turn cycle selector knob clockwise

to view fault codes in the order of most recent to oldest. (Refer to Fault/Error Code charts on pages 6 & 7.)

NOTE: A fault/error code will be removed from memory if it does not reoccur after 10 consecutive wash cycles.

2. To clear fault codes:



Turn cycle selector knob until the status LEDs

ﬂash ON and OFF (see ﬁgure 2, page 2).

 Press and hold the START button

for 3 seconds to clear all fault codes and exit Fault Code Display Mode.

Fault/Error Code Display Method

Fault/error codes are displayed by alternating the state of the Status LEDs in one second intervals. All fault/error codes have an F# and an E#. The F# indicates the suspect System/Category and the E# indicates the suspect Component system.

If the Sense/Fill LED is ON, the Fault Number is represented; if OFF, the Error Number is represented (see example below). The remaining LEDs (Wash, Rinse, Drain/Spin, and Done) represent the fault and error code in binary. (See Fault/Error Code Charts on pages 6 & 7 for more information.) = ON.

STATUS LEDs

Frame Number

SENSE

FILL

WASH

RINSE

SPIN

DONE

Fault / Error Code

1F 8421F2

DRAIN

3E 8421E3

Repeat…

LED names may vary between makes and models.

Frame Timing (sec.)

0.5 .5

0.5 .0

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

PAGE 3

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

AUTOMATIC TEST MODE (Page 8)

To access Automatic Test Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:

“Drain/Spin” LED On

Sense Wash Rinse Drain Done Fill Spin

NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models.

Press the START button to begin the automatic test. See page 8 for order of automatic test.

Upon entering the automatic test mode, the

washer will perform an automatic test with water cycles to check major washer functions.

Pressing the START button will manually

advance to the next step.

Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds

at any time to exit Automatic Test mode.

IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with lid lock enabled to perform test.

MANUAL TEST MODE (Page 9)

To access Manual Test Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:

“Drain/Spin” & “Done” LEDs On

Sense Wash Rinse Drain Done Fill Spin

Press the START button to enter Manual Test Mode. See page 9 for manual test mode.

Upon entering the manual test mode,

the washer will have all outputs OFF.

The cycle selector knob is used to select

the output to be tested.

The Start button will activate/deactivate

the selected output.

When the selected output is activated, the

corresponding status LEDs ﬂash ON & OFF.

Press and hold the START button for 3

seconds at any time to exit Manual test mode.

IMPORTANT: As a safety feature, the lid must be closed with lid lock enabled to activate either Agitate or Spin Test.

NOTE: Multiple outputs may be activated simultaneously.

NOTE: Outputs left on will time-out after 5 minutes.

CALIBRATION MODE

NOTE: Calibration only applies to models that do not have level selection.

IMPORTANT: Calibration must be performed when any of the following components have been replaced: Main Control, Basket, Drive Assembly, Suspension, Motor, and Capacitor. Not performing calibration will result in poor wash performance.

Do NOT interrupt calibration, disturb washer,

or remove power; otherwise, calibration must be repeated.

Lid must be down to perform test. Basket must be empty to perform test

(no water or clothes).

Calibration cycle runs for approximately

2–4 minutes.* Cycle completes when lid unlocks and washer enters standby mode.

*If Calibration Mode is run on a washer

with a porcelain basket, the time necessary to complete the calibration may be longer.

NOTE: Before beginning calibration, check the drive system to verify that the cam on the splutch is moving freely and not binding.

To access Calibration Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:

“Rinse” LED On

Sense Wash Rinse Drain Done Fill Spin

NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models.

Press the START button to begin washer calibration. All status LEDs will turn on.

UI TEST MODE

To access UI (User Interface) Test Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:

“Rinse” & “Drain/Spin” LEDs On

(1)Sense (2)Wash (3)Rinse (4)Drain (5)Done

(1) Fill (4)Spin

NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models. Use LED # identiﬁcations.

Press the START button to begin the UI test.

Upon entering the UI test mode, all status

LEDs will be turned ON.

Pressing the Start button will turn on and

off all status LEDs, or toggle the state of each status LED independently. (Example: if 2 are on, and 3 are off, then 2 will be turned off and 3 turned on.)

PAGE 4

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

When rotating the cycle selector knob, each

click “indent” toggles the “Done” (5) LED.

Turning the rotary switches will toggle

the following status LEDs on and off.

• Rotary Switch #1 – toggles (1) Sense/Fill LED

• Rotary Switch #2 – toggles (2) Wash LED

• Rotary Switch #3 – toggles (3) Rinse LED

• Rotary Switch #4 – toggles (4) Drain/Spin LED

NOTE: The number and location of rotary

switches varies between makes and models. Switches are read from left to right, the leftmost switch being #1.

Press and hold the START button for

3 seconds at any time to exit UI test mode.

Washer will exit UI test mode after

5 minutes of inactivity or unplugging the power cord.

SOFTWARE VERSION DISPLAY MODE

To access Software Version Display Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:

“Rinse,” “Drain/Spin,” and “Done” LEDs On

Sense Wash Rinse Drain Done Fill Spin

NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models.

Press the START button to begin software display mode.

Upon entering the software version display

mode, the Major, Minor, and Test version numbers for the software are displayed by alternating the state of the Status LEDs in one second intervals; the process repeats following a pause.

 For example, if the s/w version is 02.01.17,

the following sequence would be displayed:

16 8 4 2 1

Sense Wash Rinse Drain Done Fill Spin

Press and hold the START button for

3 seconds at any time to exit software version display mode.

01 17

TACHOMETER VERIFICATION MODE

To access Tachometer Veriﬁcation Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:

“Wash” and “Done” LEDs On

Sense Wash Rinse Drain Done Fill Spin

NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models.

Press the START button to begin tachometer veriﬁcation mode.

Tachometer veriﬁcation uses the status

LEDs to represent the tachometer frequency (basket RPM).

 For example, slowly turn the basket

by hand; as the basket turns, the DONE, DRAIN/SPIN, RINSE, and WASH status LEDs will illuminate one at a time in a visually repeating cycle. The LED timing is derived from the tachometer signal itself.

Press and hold the START button for

3 seconds at any time to exit tachometer veriﬁcation mode.

CUSTOMER VIEWABLE FAULT CODES (WASHER)

There are three fault codes that may be visible to the customer indicated by the following Status LEDs:

WASH LED ON (Long Fill Fault) – Refer to

“No Fill, Long Fill” on page 7 for information.

DRAIN/SPIN LED ON (Long Drain Fault) –

Refer to “Long Drain” on page 7 for information.

LID LOCK LED FLASHING CONTINUOUSLY

(Lid Lock Fault) – Run TEST #3: Drive System on page 13. According to the result, refer to “Basket Speed Fault,” “Shifter Fault,” “Motor Fault,” or “Motor Unable to Reach Target RPM” on page 7. Finally, refer to “Lid Lock Fault” on page 6.

FOR SERVICE FAULT AND ERROR CODES,

CONTINUE TO PAGES 6 AND 7

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

PAGE 5

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

8421

FAULT/ERROR CODES (WASHER) — See page 3 to access Fault Code Display Mode. = ON

FAULT/ERROR CODE – DESCRIPTION

Status LEDs

Explanation & Recommended Procedure

(Status LED names may vary between makes and models)

SENSE

FILL*

WASH

RINSE

F0E0 – NO FAULT

DRAIN

8421 Off

F0E2 – OVERSUDS CONDITION DETECTED

Fault is displayed when suds prevent the basket from spinning up to speed or the pressure sensor detects rising suds level. The main control will flush water in attempt to clear suds. If the water flush is unable to correct the problem, this may indicate:

• Not using HE detergent.

• Excessive detergent usage.

• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?

• Mechanical friction on drive mechanism or basket (clothing between basket and tub).

F0E4 – HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE – RINSE CYCLE

Fault is displayed when washer detects water temperature 105°F (40°C) or higher during rinse cycle.

• Hot water getting in. Make sure inlet hoses are connected correctly.

F0E5 – OFF BALANCE LOAD DETECTED

Fault is displayed when an off balance condition is detected.

• Check for weak suspension. Basket should not bounce up and down more than once when pushed.

• Clothing should be distributed evenly when loading.

F1E1 – MAIN CONTROL FAULT

Indicates a main control fault.

• See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

F1E2 – MOTOR CONTROL FAULT

Indicates a fault of the motor control section of the main control.

• See TEST #3b: Drive System – Motor, page 14.

F2E1 – STUCK KEY

One or more keys on the User Interface were actuated for 15 consecutive seconds.

• Fault occurs during Diagnostic Test Mode if a stuck key is detected.

• See TEST #4: Console and Indicators, page 16.

F2E3 – SWITCH MISMATCH

The switches do not match the console or are not operating correctly.

• Fault occurs during Diagnostic Test Mode if a switch mismatch is detected.

• See TEST #4: Console and Indicators, page 16.

F3E1 – PRESSURE SYSTEM FAULT

Fault is displayed when the Main Control detects an out of range pressure signal.

• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?

• See TEST #5: Water Level, page 16.

F5E1 – LID SWITCH FAULT

Fault is displayed if lid is in locked state, but lid switch is open; control not sensing the strike in the lid lock.

• User presses Start with lid open.

• The main control cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly.

• Strike not assembled correctly on the lid.

• Lid lock bezel not installed correctly (must be square to embossing and flush to top).

• See TEST #7: Lid Lock, page 18.

F5E2 – LID LOCK FAULT

Fault is displayed if lid lock has not moved into locked position or motor cannot be powered.

• Lid is not closed completely due to interference.

• Check for lock interference with lock striker.

• Wash media buildup (detergent, lint, etc.) is preventing the lock mechanism from sliding.

• Main control detects open lid switch when attempting to lock.

• Main control cannot determine if lid lock is in a locked state.

• See TEST #7: Lid Lock, page 18.

* If the Sense/Fill LED is ON, the fault code is represented; if OFF, the error code is represented.

ERROR NUMBERFAULT NUMBER

Status LEDs

DONE

SENSE

SPIN

FILL*

WASH

RINSE

DRAIN

DONE

SPIN

PAGE 6

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

FAULT/ERROR CODES (WASHER) (cont.) — See page 3 to access Fault Code Display Mode. = ON

FAULT/ERROR CODE – DESCRIPTION

Status LEDs

Explanation & Recommended Procedure

(Status LED names may vary between makes and models)

WASH

RINSE

SENSE

FILL*

F5E3 – LID UNLOCK FAULT

Fault is displayed if lid lock has not moved into unlocked position or motor cannot be powered.

• Check for lock interference with lock striker.

• Main control cannot determine if lid lock is in an unlocked state.

• See TEST #7: Lid Lock, page 18.

F5E4 – LID NOT OPENED BETWEEN CYCLES

Fault is displayed if the following conditions occur:

• User presses Start after several consecutive washer cycles without opening lid.

• See TEST #7: Lid Lock, page 18.

F7E1 – BASKET SPEED FAULT

Fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine speed of basket, or speed changes too quickly.

• See TEST #3: Drive System, page 13.

• Calibration—run Calibration Mode, page 4.

• Locked rotor—check that basket, impeller, and motor can rotate freely.

• Check harness connections from main control to motor and shifter.

• See TEST #3a: Drive System–Shifter, page 13.

• Control not sensing the basket move in spin—run Tachometer Verification Mode, page 5.

• Bad motor capacitor, motor or capacitor connector disconnected, or broken wires to motor or capacitor.

• Belt is off or pulley is loose—check drive belt. Verify that belt is fully installed on both pulleys. Also, check that the pulleys are fastened securely to the motor shaft and agitator shaft.

• See TEST #3b: Drive System–Motor, page 14.

• For more details, see document W10606242.

F7E5 – SHIFTER FAULT

Fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine position of shifter.

• See TEST #3: Drive System, page 13.

• Check harness connections from main control to motor and shifter.

• Observe shifter operation.

• See TEST #3a: Drive System–Shifter, page 13.

F7E6 – MOTOR FAULT

Indicates an open clockwise or counterclockwise circuit of the motor.

• See TEST #3: Drive System, page 13.

• See TEST #3b: Drive System–Motor, page 14.

F7E7 – MOTOR UNABLE TO REACH TARGET RPM

Fault is displayed when basket speed sensor detects that target RPM was not reached.

• See TEST #3: Drive System, page 13.

• Mechanical friction on drive mechanism or basket (clothing between basket and tub).

• Weak motor or run capacitor, or no connection to run capacitor.

• Load off balance. Clothing should be distributed evenly when loading.

• See TEST #3b: Drive System–Motor, page 14.

F8E1 – NO FILL, LONG FILL

Fault is displayed when the water level does not change for a period of time OR water is present but main control does not detect the water level changing.

• Is water supply connected and turned on?

• Low water pressure; fill times longer than six minutes. Are hose screens plugged?

• Check for proper drain hose installation. Is water siphoning out of the drain hose?

• Drain hose must not be more than 4.5" (114 mm) into the drain pipe.

• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?

• See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.

F8E3 – OVERFLOW CONDITION

Fault is displayed when main control senses water level that exceeds the washer’s capacity.

• May signify problem with inlet water valves.

• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?

• Onboard pressure transducer fault.

• Check for proper drain hose installation. Is water siphoning out of the drain hose? Drain hose must not be more than

4.5" (114 mm) into the drain pipe. Make sure drain hose is not seated into drain pipe, and that there is an air gap for ventilation. Ensure drain height is between 39" (991 mm) and 8' (2.4 m) above the floor.

• See TEST #2: Valves, page 13 and TEST #5: Water Level, page 16.

F8E5 – HOT, COLD REVERSED

Fault is displayed when the hot and cold inlet hoses are reversed.

• Make sure inlet hoses are connected correctly.

• See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.

F9E1 – LONG DRAIN

Fault is displayed when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on for 10 minutes.

• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? Check tub sump under impeller for obstructions.

• Is the drain hose height greater than 8' (2.4 m)?

• Too much detergent.

• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?

• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #6: Drain Pump, page 17.

* If the Sense/Fill LED is ON, the fault code is represented; if OFF, the error code is represented.

F E

DONE

DRAIN

SPIN

ERROR NUMBERFAULT NUMBER

Status LEDs

SENSE

FILL*

E482148

WASH

RINSE

DRAIN

SPIN

421

4421

DONE

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

PAGE 7

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

AUTOMATIC TEST MODE (WASHER) — See page 4 to access Automatic Test Mode. = ON

Press the START button to begin the Automatic Test. IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed and locked to perform Automatic Test.

FUNCTION

STATUS LEDs

Est. TIME

Recommended Procedure

(Status LED names may vary between makes and models)

LID WILL LOCK

Motor must be at “0” RPM. If lid does not lock, go to Manual Test: Lid Lock, page 9.

COLD VALVE WILL ACTUATE

If water is not present, go to Manual Test: Cold Valve, page 9.

HOT VALVE WILL ACTUATE

If water is not present, go to Manual Test: Hot Valve, page 9.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT

Washer will pause for 5 seconds.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT

Hot water valve will actuate for the specified time period.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT

Cold water valve will actuate for the specified time period.

HOT & COLD VALVE WILL ACTUATE

Hot & cold water valves will actuate for the specified time period.

SHIFTER MOVES TO AGITATION POSITION

If motor does not agitate, go to Manual Test: Gentle or Heavy Agitation, page 9.

MOTOR AGITATES

If motor does not agitate, go to Manual Test: Gentle or Heavy Agitation, page 9.

DRAIN PUMP WILL ACTUATE

If water is not draining, go to Manual Test: Drain, page 9.

WASH

RINSE

DRAIN

SPIN

4 1

421

8 1

8 2

DONE

In Seconds

LID LOCK

~5–15

~30–40

SHIFTER MOVES TO SPIN POSITION

If basket is not turning, go to Manual Test: Low or High Spin, page 9.

MOTOR SPINS

If basket is not turning, go to Manual Test: Low or High Spin, page 9.

LID REMAINS LOCKED UNTIL WASHER SENSES A STOPPED BASKET

Basket must stop spinning (0 RPM) before test continues to next phase. Time for basket to stop spinning may vary from 30 seconds up to 2 minutes.

LID WILL UNLOCK AND CYCLE COMPLETES

If lid does not unlock, go to Manual Test: Lid Lock, page 9.

PAGE 8

8 2 1

84 1

842

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

~5–15

~30–45

~3 min

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

MANUAL TEST MODE (WASHER) — See page 4 to access Manual Test Mode. = ON

Pressing the START button will activate/deactivate each output. When the output is activated, the corresponding Status LEDs will ﬂash. IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed and locked to perform SPIN & AGITATE tests.

OUTPUT

Output Details

NOTE: Outputs will time-out after 5 minutes.

LID LOCK

Lock and unlock the lid. NOTES: When lock is enabled, the “Lid Lock” LED will turn ON. Will only lock when lid is closed. Will only unlock when basket RPM is 0. If lid is not closed, washer will flash status LEDs on and off.

• If lid does not lock or unlock, go to TEST #7: Lid Lock, page 18.

COLD VALV E

Turns ON and turns OFF cold water valve.

• If valve does not turn on, go to TEST #2: Valves, page 13.

HOT VALV E

Turns ON and turns OFF hot water valve.

• If valve does not turn on, go to TEST #2: Valves, page 13.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT

If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.

STATUS LEDs

WASH

RINSE

DRAIN

SPIN

DONE

LID LOCK

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT

If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT

If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT

If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.

DRAIN

Turns ON and turns OFF the drain pump.

• If pump does not turn on, go to TEST #6: Drain Pump, page 17.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT

If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.

LOW SPIN – To perform test, lid must be closed and locked. Spins basket from 0 to 500 RPM. NOTE: Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition.

IMPORTANT: To activate Low Spin, RPM must read “0” and lid must be closed with lid lock enabled.

If lid is not closed, status LEDs will flash on and off. IMPORTANT: Water in tub must be drained before test.

• If motor does not spin, go to TEST #3a & 3b: Drive System (Shifter & Motor), pages 13 & 14.

HIGH SPIN – To perform test, lid must be closed and locked. Spins basket from 0 to maximum RPM. NOTE: Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition.

IMPORTANT: To activate High Spin, RPM must read “0” and lid must be closed with lid lock enabled.

If lid is not closed, status LEDs will flash on and off. IMPORTANT: Water in tub must be drained before test.

• If motor does not spin, go to TEST #3a & 3b: Drive System (Shifter & Motor), pages 13 & 14.

GENTLE AGITATION – To perform test, lid must be closed and locked.

Shifts from idle motor to gentle CW/CCW agitation. NOTE: Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition. IMPORTANT: To activate Gentle Agitation, RPM must read “0” and lid must be closed with lid lock enabled. If lid is not

closed, status LEDs will flash on and off.

• If motor does not agitate, go to TEST #3a & 3b: Drive System (Shifter & Motor), pages 13 & 14.

HEAVY AGITATION – To perform test, lid must be closed and locked. Shifts from idle motor to heavy CW/CCW agitation. NOTE: Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition.

IMPORTANT: To activate Heavy Agitation, RPM must read “0” and lid must be closed with lid lock enabled. If lid is not

closed, status LEDs will flash on and off.

• If motor does not agitate, go to TEST #3a & 3b: Drive System (Shifter & Motor), pages 13 & 14.

2 1

8 On

8 2 1

8 4

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

PAGE 9

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

WASHER TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE NOTE: Always check for error codes ﬁrst (pgs. 6–7).

Some tests will require accessing components. See Figures 7 & 8, page 19, for component locations. For detailed troubleshooting procedures, refer to “Troubleshooting Tests” beginning on page 12.

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE

WON’T POWER UP

•No operation

• No Status LEDs

WON’T START CYCLE

No response when Start button is pressed.

UI WON’T ACCEPT SELECTIONS

WON’T FILL

OVERFILLS

WON’T AGITATE

WON’T SPIN

No power to washer.

Connection problem between AC power cord and power harness. Main control not properly installed in console. Main control problem.

Lid not closed.

User Interface problem.

Main control problem. User Interface problem.

Main control problem. No water supplied to washer.

Plugged filter/screen.

Drain hose installation. Valve problem. Main control problem.

Pressure hose. Valve problem. Washer requires calibration. Onboard pressure transducer. Main control problem.

Water covering impeller? Is lid open during the cycle?

Drive belt. Harness connections.

Shifter problem.

Motor problem.

Tachometer problem. No tub movement or tub speed out of normal

Main control problem. Is lid lock showing open during

the cycle? Drive belt. Harness connections.

Shifter problem.

Motor problem.

Tachometer problem. No tub movement or tub speed out of normal

Main control problem.

Check power at outlet, check circuit

breakers, fuses, or junction box connections.

Check the AC plug, power harness, and main control for continuity. See TEST #4: Console and Indicators, page 16. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

Check for interference with lid. Lid must be closed for cycle to start.

See TEST #4: Console and Indicators, page 16. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

1. Check water connections to washer.

2. Verify hot and cold water supply is on. Check for plugged filter or screen in the water valve or hoses. Check for proper drain hose installation. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

See TEST #5: Water Level, page 16. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13. Perform washer calibration on page 4. See TEST #5: Water Level, page 16. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

See TEST #5: Water Level, page 16. Check for interference with lid. Lid must be closed.

Verify that drive belt is not damaged. Check harness connections between main control and drive system. See TEST #3a: Drive System – Shifter, page 13. See TEST #3b: Drive System – Motor, page 14.

range (obstruction/belt/motor). See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

See TEST #7: Lid Lock, page 18.

Verify that drive belt is not damaged. Check harness connections between main control and drive system.

See TEST #3a: Drive System – Shifter, page 13. See TEST #3b: Drive System – Motor, page 14.

range (obstruction/belt/motor). See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

CHECKS & TESTS

PAGE 10

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

WASHER TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE (continued)

Some tests will require accessing components. See Figures 7 & 8, page 19, for component locations. For detailed troubleshooting procedures, refer to “Troubleshooting Tests” beginning on page 12.

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE

INCORRECT WATER TEMPERATURE

WON’T DRAIN

CYCLE TIME LONGER THAN EXPECTED

POOR WASH PERFORMANCE

Please reference Use & Care Guide

Water hose installation.

Valve problem. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13. Main control problem. Drain hose installation.

Standpipe position. Ensure drain height is between 39" (991 mm)

Plugged drain hose. Obstructions to drain pump.

Harness connections.

Drain pump. Main control problem. Oversuds. 1. Verify use of HE detergent.

Off balance. 1. Load is off balance.

Drain hose installation. Check for proper drain hose installation. Make

Standpipe position. Ensure drain height is between 39" (991 mm)

Draining slowly. Check for pump or drain hose obstructions. Water pressure drop. Results in longer fill time. Friction or drag on drive. Check motor and bearings; check for

Weak suspension. Basket should not bounce up and down

Oversuds.

Load is tangling.

Incorrect water level.

Clothes wet after cycle is complete (not water saturated, but very damp).

Load not rinsed.

Not cleaning clothes.

Fabric damage.

Wrong option or cycle selection.

Make sure inlet hoses are connected properly.

See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12. Check for proper drain hose installation. Make

sure it is not inserted more than 4.5" (114 mm). Make sure drain hose is not sealed into drain pipe, and that there is an air gap for ventilation.

and 8' (2.4 m) above the floor. Check drain hose for obstructions.

Check tub sump under agitator plate & basket for obstructions.

Check harness connections between main control and drain pump.

See TEST #6: Drain Pump, page 17. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

2. Excessive detergent usage.

2. Balance ring water leak.

sure it is not inserted more than 4.5" (114 mm). Make sure drain hose is not sealed into drain pipe, and that there is an air gap for ventilation.

and 8' (2.4 m) above the floor.

clothes between tub and basket.

more than once when pushed.

1. Verify use of HE detergent.

2. Excessive detergent usage.

1. Washer not loaded properly.

2. Perform washer calibration on page 4.

1. Perform washer calibration on page 4.

2. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.

3. See TEST #5: Water Level, page 16.

1. Overloaded washer.

2. Oversuds (see above).

3. Items caught in tub sump.

4. Weak suspension.

5. Shifter not moving into position

6. Cold/Rinse water >105°F.

7. See TEST #6: Drain Pump, page 17.

1. Check proper water supply.

2. Not using HE detergent.

3. Washer not loaded properly.

4. Shifter not moving into position

5. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.

1. Washer not loaded properly.

2. Not using HE detergent.

3. Not using correct cycle.

4. Shifter not moving into position

1. Washer overloaded.

2. Bleach added incorrectly.

3. Sharp items in tub. Refer customer to Use & Care Guide.

CHECKS & TESTS

(see TEST #3a).

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

PAGE 11

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

WASHER TROUBLESHOOTING TESTS TEST #1: Main Control

This test checks for incoming and outgoing supplies to and from the main control. This test assumes that proper voltage is present at the outlet.

1. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power.

2. Remove console to access main control.

3. Verify that ALL connectors are inserted

all the way into the main control.

4. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power.

5. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black

probe to J5-2 (Neutral) and red probe to J5-1 (L1).

If 120VAC is present, go to step 6. If 120VAC is not present, check the AC

power cord and power harness for continuity (See Figure 9).

6. Is the “Diagnostic LED” ON or OFF? (See Figure 3 below for LED location.)

ON: (+5VDC present) continue to step 7. OFF: (+5VDC missing) proceed to step 8.

7. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect black probe to J12-4 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J12-1 (+12VDC).

If +12VDC is present, main control

supplies are good.

If +12VDC is not present, go to step 8.

8. Check if shifter assembly is affecting the main control DC supplies.

a. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power. b. Remove connector J12 from main control. c. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power. d. Repeat steps 6 and 7. Perform the +12VDC

check inside header J12 on the board – do not short pins together.

Main Control Board Connectors & Pinouts (Figure 3)

J12

J12-4 GRY –5VDC (CIRCUIT GND) J12-3 BLU SHIFTER POSITION INPUT J12-2 PNK RPM INPUT

SHIFTERVALVES



J12-1 BLK +12VDC

J9-8 OPEN J9-7 OPEN J9-6 OPEN J9-5 BLU COLD VALVE (N) J9-4 W COMMON (L1) J9-3 OPEN J9-2 OPEN



J9-1 RED HOT VALVE (N)

J5-2 BLK NEUTRAL



J5-1 BLK L1

POWER

HARNESS

ROTARY ENCODERS

LID LOCK

DRAIN MOTOR

J3-6 BLK ROW 2 J3-5 BLK ROW 3 J3-4 BLK COLUMN 0 J3-3 RED COLUMN 1 J3-2 RED COLUMN 2



J3-1 RED COLUMN 3

J6-3 RED LOCK SWITCH J6-2 WHT L1



J6-1 BLU LID SWITCH/LOCK SOLENOID

J2-6 RED MOTOR CW WINDING (N) J2-5 ORN MOTOR CCW WINDING (N) J2-4 BK/W MOTOR (L1 COMMON) J2-3 LT BLU DRAIN PUMP MOTOR (N) J2-2 BK/W L1 COMMON



J2-1 BRN SHIFTER MOTOR (N)

 = represents

pin 1

J5 Power Harness

PAGE 12

J12 Shifter



J3 Rotary Encoders



J2 Drain/

Motor

J6 Lid

Lock



J9 Valves

Diagnostic LED

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

tuoniPevlaV

J9, 5 & 4evlaV dloC

Component

Shifter Motor

J2 Connector Pinout

J2, 1 & 2

 If one or more DC voltages are still missing,

go to step 9.

 If the DC voltages return, check for short in

harness between main control and shifter assy.

 If harness and connections are good,

replace shifter assembly.

9. Main Control has malfunctioned. a. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power. b. Replace the main control. c. Reassemble all parts and panels. d. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power.

Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

TEST #2: Valves

This test checks the electrical connections to the valves, and the valves themselves.

1. Check the relays and electrical connections to the valves by performing the Cold and Hot Valve tests under Manual Test Mode on page 9. Each test activates and deactivates the selected valve. The following steps assume one (or more) valve(s) did not turn on.

2. For the valve(s) in question check the individual solenoid valves:

a. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power. b. Remove console to access main control. c. Remove connector J9 from main control.

Refer to main control diagram on page 12.

d. Check harness connection to solenoid valves.

3. Check resistance of the valve coils across

the following J9 connector pinouts:

J9, 1 & 4evlaV toH

Resistance should be 890–1.3k Ω.

If resistance readings are tens of ohms



outside of range, check lower washer harness connector according to diagram. If still outside of range, replace the valve assembly.

If resistance readings are within range,



replace main control and calibrate washer. Perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

TEST #3: Drive System

1. Activate Service Diagnostic Test Mode, retrieve any fault/error codes, and clear them. If the displayed error codes are F7-E1, F7-E5, or motor speed codes, there is likely a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue.

2. Once the error codes are cleared, enter Manual Test Mode and run the Heavy Agitation test; if the motor runs after 15–20 seconds, there is not a problem with the motor, capacitor, control, or wiring harness connections (although the black wire from the shifter to the control should still be checked).

NOTE: The speed wheel in the transmission only turns during the spin cycle.

3. While in Manual Test Mode, try to get the washer to spin; if the motor hums brieﬂy and then shuts down (with the lid lock indicator blinking), go to Fault Code Display Mode and look for shifter or basket speed errors, which verify an issue with the shifter/sensor assembly (optical sensor is not reading the motor speed).

TEST #3a: Drive System – Shifter

This test checks connections, shifter motor, switch, and optical sensor.

NOTE: Refer to Figure 4, “Shifter Assembly Strip Circuit” on page 14 for tests and measurements.

IMPORTANT: Drain water from tub before accessing bottom of washer.

Functional Check:

1. Check the shifter and electrical connections

by performing both the Spin AND Agitate test under Manual Test Mode on page 9. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.

2. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power.

3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.

If basket turns freely, go to step 4.

 

If basket does not turn freely, determine what

is causing the mechanical friction or lockup.

4. Remove console to access main control.

5. Visually check that the J12 and J2 connectors

are inserted all the way into the main control.



If visual checks pass, go to step 6.



If connectors are not inserted properly,

reconnect J12 and J2 and repeat step 1.

Shifter Motor: NOTE: Before starting the electrical check,

verify that the cam on the splutch is moving freely and not binding.

6. Remove connector J2 from main control. With an ohmmeter, verify resistance of the shifter motor across the following J2 connector pinouts:

Resistance should be 2k to 3.5k Ω.



If values are correct, reconnect J2 and

proceed to step 7.

 If values are open or out of range, check

lower washer harness connector according to diagram. If the values are still open or out of range, go to step 13.

7. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power.

8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the

black probe to J2-2 (L1) and red probe to J2-1 (N). Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode on page 9.

IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with Lid Lock enabled to run the SPIN and AGITATE tests.

NOTE: It will take 4–15 seconds for the shifter to change states.

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

PAGE 13

 If 120VAC is present, go to step 9.

Shifter to Main Control & Drain Pum

Shifter connector Pin 6 to lower harness connector Pin 5 to main control J2-1

 If 120VAC is not present, go to step 17.

Shifter Switch:

9. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the

black probe to J12-4 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J12-3 (Shifter Switch). In manual test mode, switch between Spin and Agitate modes. Voltage should toggle between 0 and +5VDC.

SPIN = +5 VDC AGITATE = 0 VDC

 If voltage corresponds to setting, go to step 10.  If voltage does not switch, check lower

harness connector according to diagram. If voltage still does not switch, go to step 12.

Optical Sensor:

10. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the

black probe to J12-4 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J12-1 (+12VDC).

 If +12VDC is present, go to step 11.  If +12VDC is not present, check lower

harness connector according to diagram. If +12VDC is still not present, go to step 17.

11. Activate Tachometer Veriﬁcation Mode from the Service Diagnostic Test Modes (see page 5). Slowly turn the basket by hand. The four status LEDs should illuminate one at a time to represent basket RPM.

 If the tachometer is not veriﬁed, go to step 12.  If the tachometer is veriﬁed, go to step 17.

12. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power.

13. Tilt washer/dryer back to access the

bottom of the washer and the drive motor area.

14. Visually check the electrical connections to the shifter.

 If visual check passes, go to step 15.  If connections are loose, reconnect the

electrical connections and repeat step 1.

15. With an ohmmeter, check the harness for continuity between the shifter and main control using the pinouts in the following chart.

 If there is continuity, go to step 16.  If there is no continuity, replace the lower

or upper washer harness and repeat step 1.

Main Control

J5-2

Shifter Motor

TRIAC

Circuit Ground

+12VDC

Figure 4 - Shifter Assembly Strip Circuit (Shifter Switch: Open = SPIN, Closed = AGITATE)

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

Shifter connector Pin 1 to lower harness connector Pin 2 to main control J12-2

Shifter connector Pin 2 to lower harness connector Pin 4 to main control J12-1

Shifter connector Pin 3 to lower harness connector Pin 6 to main control J2-2

Shifter connector Pin 4 to lower harness connector Pin 1 to main control J12-3

Shifter connector Pin 5 to lower harness connector Pin 3 to main control J12-4

16. Replace the shifter assembly. a. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power. b. Replace shifter assembly. c. Reassemble all parts and panels. d. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power.

Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

17. If the preceding steps did not correct the problem, replace the main control.

a. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power. b. Replace the main control. c. Reassemble all parts and panels. d. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power.

Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

TEST #3b: Drive System – Motor

This test checks the motor, motor windings, wiring, and start capacitor.

NOTE: Refer to Figure 5, “PSC Motor Strip Circuit” on page 15 for tests and measurements.

IMPORTANT: Drain water from tub before accessing bottom of washer.

1. Check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Gentle or Heavy Agitation test under Manual Test Mode on page 9. Verify that the basket is spinning in a clockwise direction while performing Low or High Spin test under Manual Test Mode on page 9. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.

2. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power.

3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.

 If basket turns freely, go to step 4.  If basket does not turn freely, determine what

is causing the mechanical friction or lockup.

4. Remove console to access main control.

5. Visually check that the J12 and J2 connectors

are inserted all the way into the main control.

Shifter Assy

J2-1

J12-4 J12-1

Motor Resistance 2k to 3.5k ohms

Pin 5

Pin 6

120VAC

Motor

Pin 5

Pin 2

Shifter Switch

Optical Sensor

Pin 3

Pin 4

Pin 3

Pin 1

Pin 6

Pin 1

Pin 2

Main Control

J2-2

J12-3Pin 4

J12-2

Shifter Position

Input

RPM Input

J5-1

PAGE 14

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

Motor Winding J2 Pinout

Size

Resistance

Motor Harness Check

Motor Winding Motor Pinout

Size

Resistance

 If visual checks pass, go to step 6. 

If connectors are not inserted properly,

reconnect J12 and J2 and repeat step 1.

6. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power. Run the Gentle Agitation test under Manual Test Mode on page 9.

7. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J2-4 (L1) and red probe to J2-6 (CW Winding).

 If 120VAC is cycling ON during CW rotation,

go to step 8.

 If 120VAC is not present, go to Test #1:

Main Control, page 12.

8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J2-4 (L1), red probe to J2-5 (CCW Winding).

 If 120VAC is cycling ON during CCW

rotation, go to step 9.

 If 120VAC is not present, go to Test #1:

Main Control, page 12.

9. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power.

10. Remove connector J2 from main control.

With an ohmmeter, check resistance of motor windings across the following J2 connector pinouts:

NOTE: If the console has a cycle selector knob and 4 rotary switches, the motor size is 1/3 HP.

CW Winding J2, 4 & 6

1/4 HP

CCW Winding J2, 4 & 5

CW Winding J2, 4 & 6

1/3 HP

CCW Winding J2, 4 & 5

Lower harness

connector, 8 & 9

Lower harness

connector, 8 & 10

Lower harness

connector, 8 & 9

Lower harness

connector, 8 & 10

5 to 9.5 Ω

3.5 to 6 Ω

 If values are open or out of range, go to step 11.  If values are correct, go to step 15.

11. Tilt washer/dryer back to access drive system.

12. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and shifter. Verify that the wires between the motor and the harness are connected this way: Black-white/ White, Orange/Yellow, and Red/Red.

 If visual check passes, go to step 13.  If connections are loose, reconnect the

electrical connections, reassemble motor cover, and repeat step 1.

13. With an ohmmeter, check the harness for continuity between the main control, motor, and run capacitor using the following test points.

Motor connector Pin 1 to chassis ground Motor connector Pin 3 to lower harness connector Pin 10 to main control J2-5

Motor connector Pin 3 to run capacitor Pin 3 Motor connector Pin 4 to lower harness connector Pin 9 to main control J2-6

Motor connector Pin 4 to run capacitor Pin 1 Motor connector Pin 2 to lower harness connector Pin 8 to main control J2-4

 If there is continuity, go to step 14.  If there is no continuity, replace the lower

or upper washer harness (depending on where the issue was) and repeat step 1.

14. With an ohmmeter, check resistance of motor windings at the following motor connections.

NOTE: If the console has a cycle selector knob and 4 rotary switches, the motor size is 1/3 HP.

1/4 HP

1/3 HP

CW Winding Pins 4 & 2

CCW Winding Pins 3 & 2

CW Winding Pins 4 & 2

CCW Winding Pins 3 & 2

5 to 9.5 Ω 5 to 9.5 Ω

3.5 to 6 Ω

 If values are open or out of range, replace

motor.

 If values are correct, go to step 15.

15. Test Motor Run Capacitor. NOTE: A faulty capacitor may cause the motor to “hum,” not start, or turn slowly.

a. Discharge the capacitor by touching the leads of a 20,000 Ω resistor to the two terminals.

b. Disconnect the wires from the capacitor terminals.

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

Main Control

Pin 9

J2-6

CW TRIAC

J5-2

CCW TRIAC

* 1/3 HP Motor – Each Winding 3.5 to 6 ohms/ * 1/4 HP Motor – Each Winding 5 to 9.5 ohms

Run Cap/

Inductor

J2-5

Pin 10

Figure 5 - PSC Motor Strip Circuit (shown in On position)

PSC Motor

Pin 2

Pin 1

Main Control

Pin 8

J2-4

Main Relay

J5-1

Pin 4

CW Winding*

CCW Winding*

Pin 3

PAGE 15

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

c. With an ohmmeter, measure across the terminals and note reading.

 If a steady increase in resistance is noted,

continue to step 16.

 If the capacitor is either shorted or open,

replace capacitor, calibrate, and repeat step 1.

16. If the preceding steps did not correct the motor problem, replace the main control.

a. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power. b. Replace the main control. c. Reassemble all parts and panels. d. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power.

Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

TEST #4: Console and Indicators

Console and Indicators Check:

This test is performed when any of the following situations occurs during “UI Test Mode” on page 4.

3None of the LEDs light up 3One or more Status LEDs are ﬂashing 3Turning rotary switch does not toggle LED

None of the LEDs light up:

1. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power.

2. Access the main control and visually check

that ALL connectors are inserted all the way into their respective headers.

3. Visually check that the main control assembly is properly inserted in the console.

4. If both visual checks pass, follow procedure under TEST #1, “Main Control” on page 12 to verify supply voltages.

5. To verify repair, activate the Service Diagnostic Mode, and then perform UI Test Mode on page 4.

One or more Status LEDs are ﬂashing:

If one or more of the status LEDs are ﬂashing (on and off in 0.5 second intervals), refer to the following notes to identify the switch(es) in question. Reference the wiring diagram on page 26 when performing the following procedures.

a. Verify the switch connector is inserted all the way into the main control.

b. Check the harness between the switch and main control for continuity. Check for shorts.

c. Replace the switch.

NOTE 1: The number and location of rotary

switches varies between makes and models. NOTE 2: Regardless of location, switches are

read from left to right, the left-most switch being #1.

NOTE 3: Each rotary switch and the cycle selector knob is represented by the following status LEDs:

• Rotary Switch #1 – toggles (1) Sense/Fill LED

• Rotary Switch #2 – toggles (2) Wash LED

• Rotary Switch #3 – toggles (3) Rinse LED

• Rotary Switch #4 – toggles (4) Drain/Spin LED

• Cycle Select Knob – toggles (5) Done LED NOTE 4: Status LED names may vary between

makes and models. Use LED # identiﬁcation.

(1)Sense (2)Wash (3)Rinse (4)Drain (5)Done

(1) Fill (4)Spin

Turning rotary switch does not toggle LED:

Perform the procedures under “One or more Status LEDs are ﬂashing.”

TEST #5: Water Level

This test checks the water level sensing components. The washer has an on-board pressure transducer. NOTE: Usually, if the pressure transducer malfunctions, the washer will generate a long ﬁll, or long drain error.

1. Check the functionality of the pressure transducer by running a small load cycle. The valves should turn off automatically after sensing the correct water level in the tub. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.

2. Drain the tub until all water has been removed.

3. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power.

4. Remove console to access controls.

5. Check hose connection between the

pressure transducer and the pressure dome attached to the tub. Make sure barbed connector between hoses is correctly assembled.

6. Check to ensure hose is routed correctly in the dryer and the lower washer cabinet and not pinched or crimped by the back panel.

PAGE 16

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY

Component

Drain Pum

J2, 2 & 3

J2 Connector Pinout

Main Control to Drain Pum

Drain pump Pin 2 to lower harness connector Pin 6 to main control J2-2

7. Verify there is no water, suds, or debris in the hose or dome. Disconnect hose from main control and blow into hose to clear water, suds, or debris.

8. Check hose for leaks. Replace if needed.

9. Replace the main control and calibrate

washer. Perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

TEST #6: Drain Pump

Perform the following checks if washer does not drain.

NOTE: Refer to Figure 6, “Drain Pump Strip Circuit” for tests and measurements.

IMPORTANT: Drain water from tub before accessing bottom of washer.

1. Check for obstructions in the usual areas. Clean and then perform step 2.

2. Check the drain pump and electrical connections by performing the Drain Test under Manual Test Mode on page 9. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.

3. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power.

4. Remove console to access main control.

5. Visually check that the J2 connector is

inserted all the way into the main control.



If visual check passes, go to step 6.



If connector is not inserted properly,

reconnect J2 and repeat step 2.

6. Remove connector J2 from main control. With an ohmmeter, verify resistance values shown below across the following J2 connector pinouts:

Resistance should be 14–25 Ω.



If values are open or out of range,

check lower harness connector, pin 7 & 6. If values are still open or out of range, go to step 7.



If values are correct, go to step 11.

7. Tilt washer/dryer back to access drain pump. Verify pump is free from obstructions.

8. Visually check the electrical connections at the drain pump.



If visual check passes, go to step 9.



If connections are loose, reconnect the

electrical connections and repeat step 2.

9. With an ohmmeter, check harness for continuity between the drain pump and main control. See chart below.

Drain pump Pin 1 to lower harness connector Pin 7 to main control J2-3



If there is continuity, go to step 10.



If there is no continuity, replace the lower

or upper washer harness (depending on where the issue was) and repeat step 2.

10. With an ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the two pump terminals. Resistance should be 14–25 Ω.

If values are open or out of range, replace



the pump motor.



If the resistance at the pump motor is

correct, go to step 11.

11. If there is a stuck pump, check for a blown board. If the board has a blown R69 surge resistor, check for stuck or shorted pump motor; if OK, check all other loads with input to the board.

12. If the preceding steps did not correct the drain problem, replace the main control.

a. Unplug washer/dryer or disconnect power. b. Replace the main control. c. Reassemble all parts and panels. d. Plug in washer/dryer or reconnect power.

Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

N L1

DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY

Main Control Main Control

Drain Pump Motor Relay

J2-3J5-2 J2-2Pin 1 Pin 2 J5-1

Figure 6 - Drain Pump Strip Circuit

Drain Pump Motor

Pin 7

Motor Resistance 14 to 25 ohms

120VAC

Motor

Pin 6

Main Relay

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