Volvo P 120 Service Manual

P 120

DESCRIPTION

P 120, 4-DOOR
Body frame

The Volvo P 120 has an integral body so that there

A

i

s

no chassis frame. The body is composed of a

number of pressed steel plates, each of which forms
part of the supporting construction.

The body can be suitably divided up into the floor,

side sections, rear section, scuttle, roof, front mud-

guards, doors, luggage compartment and bonnet.
The floor and frame sections (Fig. 1) consist of a

front and rear floor plate (1 and 4) and an inner

cantrail (2), front and rear cross-members (8 and 6),

tunnel (3) and scuttle (Fig, 2). The floor plates are
welded together with the rear seat support. The

tunnel (3), which accommodates the propeller shaft

i

s spot-welded to the floor plates. The rear floor

plate has a longitudinal reinforcing member (5)

on each side at the bottom and between these a

number of cross-members. One of the cross-mem­bers (6) is provided with an attachment (7) for the

rear axle tie rod, There is a flanged hole in the rear

floor plate for mounting the fuel tank, the upper

part of which forms part of the floor in the luggage
compartment. The scuttle section (Fig. 2) consists

of the bulkhead (7), wheel arches (5), front upper

cross-member (4) and side plates (3), as well as
l

ower cross-members (1 and 2). The bulkhead forms

the front transverse wall of the body and is shaped

with welded end pieces. Two front side members
(8)

project from the front floor. At the front they

are joined together by means of a cross-member

(2) and at the rear they are connected to the front

cross-member under the front seats. Upper side

members (6) project from the upper corner between

the bulkhead and front pillar. These are spot wel­ded to the front pillar, the front side plate and

wheel arch plates. The front axle member and

bumper support bars are attached to the side
members.

Fig. 2.

Scuttle section

Fig. 1.

Floor section (2- and 4-door)

1.

Front floor plate

2.Inner cantrail

3.

Tunnel

4.

Rear floor plate

5.

Reinforcing

member

6.

Rear cross-member

7.

Attachment for rear

8.

axle tie rod

Front cross-member

2.

Front lower
cross-member
Front lower

3.

cross-member
Side plate

4.

Front upper

5.

cross-member
Wheel arch

6.

Upper side member

7.

Bulkhead

8.

Front side member

P 120

The front end is bolted to the upper side mem-

bers, front cross-member and front pillar. The front
mudguards are pressed in one piece and bolted
to the wheel arch plate. The front section forms
the front part of the front end as well as the air
duct to the radiator. The body is noise- and heat-

i

nsulated. The insulation consists of "waffle" board

which is stuck on to the plate.

Bonnet

The bonnet is pivoted at the rear on two hinges.

I

n the closed position, the bonnet is secured by a
bonnet lock fitted on the front section. The lever
for the bonnet lock is operated by means of a

control

placed underneath the dashboard inside

the vehicle.

Doors sand openings

The doors are built up of an outer and inner plate

together with door arch which is flanged and spot-

welded in one unit. The hinges are fitted to the

i

nner plate. The doors are adjustable both longitu-

dinally,

vertically

and laterally. The doors are
provided with a door check. This consists of a flat
bar attached to the door pillar and runs against a
roller in the door. In the open position the flat
bar obstructs the movement of the roller and thus
li

mits the movement of the door. The door checks
are fitted to the doors with screws. The press­button of the outside door handles operates a lever
which in turn disengages a rotating toothed roller
(tumbler). The inside door handles are fitted to the
remote control which is attached to the inner door
plate with screws. The handle transmits the move­ment to the toothed roller by means of a link rod.
The lock insert is fitted in the press-button on the
door handle. The doors can be locked from inside
the vehicle by pressing down the locking knobs.
The window winders are of the cable and chain
type. The movement of the window winding handle

i

s transmitted to the window itself by a cable and
chain which are joined together forming an endless
"drive

This is mounted on two pulleys and a

sprocket. The lower pulley is provided with a spring

device for tensioning.
The luggage compartment lid is built up of an outer

and inner plate. The catch for the locking device
i

s fitted on the lower edge of the luggage compart­ment lid. The hinges are fitted at the upper edge
of the lid. The hinges are bolted to the plate under
the rear window through a reinforcing plate. The

Fig. 4.

Roof section (2- and 4-door)

On 4-door models the side section (Fig. 3)
consists of the front pillar (9), intermediate pillar (11),
rear pillar (6), intermediate and outer cantrails (8
and 7), roof former (1), windscreen pillar (10), rear
wheel arch (2) with wheel arch member (5), rear
mudguard (4), back plate and joining plate (3). The
cantrail and wheel arch member are manufactured
of galvanized sheet metal.
The roof section (Fig. 4) consists of a number of
pressed steel plates. The roof plates form the
upper part of the scuttle section, windscreen open­i

ng, the roof itself, the opening for the rear window
and the upper limit of the luggage compartment.
The front mudguards, front section and bonnet
make up the front end.

Fig. 3.

Side section (4-door)

l

uggage compartment lid is counter-balanced with
torsion rods and can be set in any position when
opening. On chassis up to number 20999, the lock-

i

ng device is placed on the body below the lid,

and on vehicles with effect from chassis number
21000, the locking device is fitted on the lid.

Interior fittings and upholstery

FRONT SEATS, LATE PRODUCTION

The front seats are built up on a tubular frame. The
padding consists of foam plastic which is covered

by fabric-backed vinyl. The seat can be adjusted

l

ongitudinally by releasing the catch (3, Fig. 5), and
sliding the seat. The seat can be adjusted vertically
at the attachment (4) which is provided with holes
at different heights. The seat can be tilted to the
desired position by means of the adjusting device

(5).

The backrest inclination is variably adjustable
by means of the handwheel (2) which operates an
eccentric. The seat is provided with an adjustable
l

umbar support (see Fig. 7), the tension of which

Bild 5.

Front seat (4-door)

1.

Adjustment of lumbar support

2.

Adjustment of backrest inclination

3.

Longitudinal adjustment

4.

Adjustment of seat height

5.

Adjustment of seat inclination

P 120

i

s

adjusted with a screw (1, Fig. 5 and 3, Fig. 7)
on each side of the backrest. The seat cushions are
attached to the seat frame by means of press­fasteners.

REAR SEAT
The rear seat and backrest are built up in principle

i

n the same way as the front seats, although in this

case the seat frame consists of a wooden frame.

DOOR UPHOLSTERY
The door upholstery consists of wood-fibre sheeting

lined

with non-woven padding and covered with
upholstery material. It is secured to the door by
means of clips. The front armrest is made of moul­ded plastic and is screwed to the inner plate of the
door.

HEADLINING

The headlining consists of plastic material stretched

on roof ribs and secured in retainers fitted on the
upper limit of the body sides.

COVERING FOR BULKHEAD AND FLOOR

The sides of the bulkhead are lined with millboard
which is attached with clips. The bulkhead is

covered with plastic-lined felt matting. The floor is
covered with rubber mats.

Bumpers

The bumpers are composed of three parts and the
upper joints are provided with overriders. The bum-

pers are fitted on four support bars, of which the

front ones are attached to the front side members

and the rear ones to the rear side members.

8-3

P120

P 120,2-DOOR

Body frame

The body frame is largely similar to that of the

4-door model. However, the side part is altered
so that there is no longer an intermediate pillar

and the rear mudguard (3, Fig. 6) is extended. The

side section consists of front and rear door pillars

(7 and 4), intermediate and outer cantrails (6 and

5), roof former (1), windscreen pillar (8), rear wheel
arch (2) and rear mudguard (3).

Bonnet

See the 4-door model.

Doors and openings

See the 4-door model.

Interior fittings and upholstery

FRONT SEATS

The front seats on the 2-door vehicle can be

hinged forwards in order to facilitate entry to the

rear seats. They are provided with catches (4) in
order to prevent tilting forwards (see Fig, 7).

OTHER INTERIOR FITTINGS

Concerning other fittings and the bumpers, see the
4-door model.

P 120 STATION WAGON
Body frame

The front end is the same as that on the 2-door and

4-door models, The floor section (Fig. 8) consists of

the front (11), intermediate (3) and rear (4) floor

plates, tunnel, inner cantrail (1), side members (6),
front (10), intermediate (8) and rear (5) cross-mem-

bers.

The front and intermediate floor plates are welded

together at the rear seat support. The tunnel is

spot-welded to the front floor plate (11). Two rear
side members (6) are welded to the lower side of

the intermediate (3) and rear (4) floor plates, one

on each side, and between these a number of
cross-members.

One of the cross-members (8) is

provided with an attachment (9) for the rear axle

tie rod. Both the rear side members are provided
with attachments for the rear axle support arms.

The spare wheel well (7), which is provided with

a lid in the floor, is welded on the lower side of

the rear floor plate. There is a flanged hole in this

for the fuel tank.

Fig. 6.

Side section (2-door)

1.

Roof former

2.

Rear wheel arch

3.

Rear mudguard

4.

Rear pillar

5.

Outer cant rail

6.Intermediate cant rail

7.

Front pillar

8.

Windscreen pillar

P 120

Fig. 9.

Side section, Station Wagon

1.

Roof former

2.Inner frame for side
window

3.

Upper rear pillar

4.

Rear mudguard

5.

Rear intermediate
pillar

6.

Rear wheel arch

7.

Front intermediate
pillar

8.

Outer cantrail

9.

I

ntermediate cantrail

10.

Front pillar

Fig. 7.

Front seat (2-door)

1.

Adjustment of seat inclination

2.

Adjustment of seat height

3.

Adjustment of lumbar support

4.

Longitudinal adjustment of seat

5.

Adjustment of backrest inclination

The scuttle section is similar to that on the 2- and

4-door models.

The side section (Fig. 9) consists of the front pillar

(10), intermediate pillar (7), rear section, interme-

diate (9) and outer (8) cantrails, inner and outer

roof formers (1) and windscreen pillar. The rear

section is composed of the rear wheel arch (6), rear
mudguard (4), inner frame (2) for rear side window

and upper (3) and lower rear pillar. The upper part

of the rear mudguard is extended upwards and

forms the outer frame for the rear side window.

Fig. 8.

Floor section,

Station

Wagon

1. I

nner cantrail

2.

Rear seat support

3. I

ntermediate floor plate

4.

Rear floor plate

5.

Cross-member

6.

Side member

7.

Spare wheel well

8.

Cross-member

9.

Attachment for rear axle
support arms

10.

Cross-member

11.

Front floor plate

8-S

P 120

Fig. 10.

Roof section, Station Wagon

Fig. 11.

Catch device for rear seat, Station Wagon

1.

Eccentric

2.

Pull rods

3.

Catch sleeve

4.

Handle

The roof section (Fig. 10) consists of the roof

plate,

windscreen member, two roof arches and

rear member.

Doors and openings

The doors on the Station Wagon are similar to those
on the 4-door model. The tailgate consists of an
upper and lower part. The hinges of the upper
tailgate are attached to the rear edge of the roof

section and those of the lower tailgate are bolted
i

n the rear cross-member. The inside of the lower
tailgate is provided with a cover plate and mat
which are attached by means of screws. Both tail-

gate sections are locked by means of a common
l

ock which is bolted on to the lower tailgate. Each

of the tailgate sections is provided with a support
for holding it in the open position. Opening of the
upper tailgate is facilitated by means of a gas
spring, i.e. a piston which runs in an enclosed gas­filled

cylinder. There are four different opening

positions.

Interior fittings and upholstery

FRONT SEATS

See the corresponding section for the 4-door
model.

REAR SEAT

The rear seat is built up of springs on a frame and
has foam plastic padding which is covered with
vinyl. The seat cushion is provided with two hinges
at the lower front edge and can if necessary be
tipped up against the front seats. It is covered with
a

mat underneath and forms the front limit of the

l

oading space when in the tipped-up position.

The backrest consists of a back plate fitted with

rubber bands. The padding consists of foam plastic
and the upholstery of fabric-backed vinyl. The rear
side of the back plate is provided with a mat and
when folded down forms an extension of the floor
i

n the loading space. The backrest is locked in the
normal position by a spring-loaded catch device,
see Fig. 11, the handle (4) of which operates the
l

atches through an eccentric (1) and pull rods (2).
The lower corners of the backrest rest partly on a
fixed catch and partly (on the left-hand side) on a
sprung catch.

Bumpers

The bumpers are the same as on the 4-door model
except that the rear overriders serve as footsteps,
the upper sides of which are rubber-covered.

P 120

REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

FRONT END
Front mudguards

The front mudguard is removed by taking out the
following screws: the screw between the mudguard

and stay at the lower side member, the screw bet-

ween the mudguard and body side behind the
above-mentioned stay, the screws in the front side
section and the screws in the upper side member.
I

n addition, the headlamp with leads must be re­moved. Concerning removing the headlamp, see
Part 3. Fitting is done in the reverse order.

Front section

The front section is attached to the front mudguards,
wheel arch plates and the upper and lower cross­members.
When removing, take out the headlamps, the screws
between the front section and splash guard under
the headlamp, the screws in the upper and lower
cross-members and the screws in the wheel arch
plates.

Bonnet and bonnet lock

The bonnet is attached by means of screws in each
hinge. The bonnet is removed by taking out the
screws between the hinges and bonnet. The hinges
are attached to the body with four screws each.
All the holes in the hinges are oval in order to
permit the bonnet to be adjusted.
There are two types of bonnet lock. The early pro­duction lock (up to chassis number about 10 000)

i

s illustrated in Fig. 12. The bonnet lock is adjusted
as follows.
When the bonnet is locked the U-shaped catch
should lie right inside the lock catch groove and
the measurement B, Fig. 12 must not exceed 3 mm

(0.12").

Any adjustment should be made on the

catch itself. It should be adjusted vertically so that

the gap between the bonnet and the front section

Fig. 13.

Bonnet lock, late production

of the body is 4.5 ± 1 mm (0.18 ± 0.04"). The tension
of the safety catch spring should be at least 0.1 kg
(0.22 lb.) measured at D, Fig. 12, in order to move
it from its rest position.

8--

7

P 120

8-8

Fig. 14.

Door check

When the bonnet is closed, the U-shaped catch
should meet the safety catch as close to the top as

possible, but not so high as to cause the hook
to be pushed forwards, measurement C, Fig. 12.
A small adjustment of 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08") can
be made by bending the safety catch. If a larger
adjustment is found to be necessary, this means
that the whole locking device has been displaced.

I

n this case the complete bonnet lock must be reset.
The late production lock, with effect from chassis
number about 10000, is illustrated in Fig. 13.
The lock can be adjusted laterally and longitudinal-

l

y since the

holes in the front section are larger than
the diameter of the attaching screws. The length
of the latch is adjustable by means of nuts. The
l

atch and spring are lubricated with grease.

DOORS
Removing front door

1.

Remove the door check, see Fig. 14. The
attaching bolts for this are accessible after
the side insulation material on the body has
been removed. The door check can also be
removed by unscrewing the guide roller and
pulling it off. In order to get at the guide
roller, the door upholstery must be removed
see under "Removing the door handle and
upholstery".

2.

Unscrew the four countersunk screws which
hold the door to the upper and lower hinges.
The door sealing strip must be moved in order
to get at the hinge screws. This is done by
releasing the two plates over the hinges
to which the strip is glued and carefully pulling
to one side, see Fig. 15. When doing this,
make sure that the rubber strip does not come
away from the plate or door.

Fig. 16.

Removing armrest

VOLVO

25255

Fig. 15.

Plate over hinge

Fitting the door is done in the reverse order
to removing. Since the holes in the door are
l

arger than the diameter of the bolt, and the
nut plates are movable, the hinge attachment
can be adjusted both vertically and laterally.
The door is adjusted longitudinally at the
hinge attachments in the body.

Removing rear door

(See also under "Removing front door")

1.

Remove the door check. The attaching bolt
for this is accessible after the rubber plug in
the centre pillar has been removed.

2.

Remove the plates over the hinges.

VOLVO

23235

P 120

Fig. 18.

Window winder with circlip

3.

Remove the screws in the hinges and lift off

the door.

The holes in the centre pillar are larger than
the diameter of the bolts. When running nuts
are used, this enables the door to be adjusted
both vertically and laterally.

Removing door handle and upholstery

1.

Remove the armrest, which is attached with two
screws accessible from underneath the armrest,
see Fig. 16.

2.

Remove the door handle and window winding

handle. These are removed by prising out the

l

ocking washer which holds them with tool

SVO 2297,

see Fig.

1

7.

The window winder,

l

ocking washer and circlip are illustrated in

Fig. 18.

3.

Remove the upper trim moulding. This is

attached to the door edges by four screws,
see Fig. 19.

Fig. 19.

Removing the upper trim moulding

Fig. 17.

Removing and fitting the window winder

P 120

8-10

Fig. 22.

Removing the lock handle

VOLVO

23210

Fig. 20. Removing the door upholstery

VOLVO

23211

Fig. 21.

Removing upper screw for guide rail

VOLVO

23256

4.

Remove the door upholstery by carefully app-

l

ying a screwdriver or similar under the pad­ded edge and then prising outwards, when
the upholstery will come away, see Fig. 20.

5.

Remove the paper protectors which are fitted
over the holes in the inner plate of the door.

Door locks and door handles

REMOVING DOOR LOCKS AND LOCK HANDLES

Carry out operations 1-5 under "Removing the
door upholstery".

1.

Unscrew the two screws which hold the guide

rail for the window. The screws are accessible

from the edge of the door as shown in Fig.

21.

Lift out the guide rail.

2.

Unscrew the three screws which hold the inner

handle mechanism (remote control).

3.

Lift

off the link arm between the lock knob

roller

mechanism and disconnect the link for

the outer handle from the roller mechanism.

4.

Unscrew the four screws on the edge of the

door which hold the toothed roller mecha-

nism.

5.

Lift off the door with remote control.

6.

The door handle is removed by unscrewing the

t

wo screws which hold it, see Fig. 22. The

screws are accessible from the inside of the
door and are most easily removed after the
window has been let down or taken out, see
under "Window winder with mechanism".

Fig. 23. Dismantling the lock handle

VOLVO

23212

DISMANTLING THE DOOR HANDLES

1.

Unscrew the two screws which hold the press­button and lock plunger to the door handle,

see Fig. 23.

2.

Press out the locking pins as shown in Fig. 24.

3.

Turn the key backwards and forwards a few

ti

mes in the press-button at the same time as

pulling outwards, when the lock plunger will

release and can be pulled out as shown in

Fig. 25.

FITTING AND ADJUSTING THE LOCKS

Front door

1.

Fit the lock (10, Fig. 26) with remote control
(12) in the door without tightening the screws.

2.

Adjust measurement A, Fig. 28 to 15±0.5 mm

(0.59 ± 0.02") by turning the lock. Tighten the
l

ock hard. If it is not possible to obtain the
correct measurement for A by turning the lock

after it has been tightened up as near to A as

possible, the remaining adjustment is done

by bending the lever (5). Measurement A must

be checked within the specified tolerances.

3.

The remote control (12) with split pin (11)

fitted is pushed backwards so that the lever

(9) stops against the lock (10). The remote
control is screwed on in this position. Remove

the split pin (11).

4.

Fit the lever (7) for the inner locking knob (15).

Fig. 26.

Adjusting the front door lock

1.

Outer handle

2.

Lock nut

3.

Adjusting screw

4.

Pin (for checking)

5.

Lever

6.

Link

7.

Lever.

8.

Lever

9.

Lever

10.Lock

11.

Split pin

12.

Remote control

13.

Locking spring

14.

Lever

15.

Locking knob

VOLVO

23244

Fig. 25.

Press-button dismantled

P 120

VOLVO

23243

Fig. 24.

Pressing out the locking pin

VOLVO

1

01 44

8-11

P 120

Rear door

1.

Fit the lock (11, Fig. 27) with remote control
(13) in the door without tightening the screws.

2.

Adjust measurement A, Fig. 28 to 17±0.5 mm
(0.67 ± 0.02") by turning the lock. Tighten the
l

ock hard. If it is not possible to obtain the

correct measurement for A by turning the lock

after it has been tightened up as near to A as

possible, the remaining adjustment is done by
bending the lever (5). Measurement A must be
checked within the specified tolerances.

3.

The remote control (13) with split pin (12)
fitted is pushed backwards so that the lever
(10) stops against the lock (11). The remote
control is screwed on in this position. Remove
the split pin (12).

4.

Fit the lever (17) and connect the link (16)
to the lever (1).

5.

Set the lever (7) in the locked position, i.e.
backwards against the lock and lever (14) in
the rear catch position. Check through the
control hole (12) that the lever moves fully
to the catch position. In this position the lever

(14) is locked to the link (16) with screws at
the clips (15). Check that the link (16) does
not rub against the inner plate of the door.
On the other hand it must not be bent out so
much that it rubs against the screws of the
i

nner trim moulding.

Fig. 27.

Adjusting the rear door lock

1.

Outer handle

2.

Locknut

3.

Adjusting screw

4.

Pin (for checking)

5.

Lever

6.

Link

7.

Lever

8.

Lever

9.

Locking spring

10.

Lever

11.

Lock

12.

Split pin

13.

Remote control

14.

Lever

15.

Clip

16.

Link

17.

Lever

18.

Locking knob

8-12

Fig. 29.

Striker block

'

Fig. 28.

Adjusting measurements for lock

FITTING AND ADJUSTING THE OUTER HANDLES

Front door, early production

1.

Check that measurement B, Fig. 28=15± 1 mm
(0.59±0.04"). Adjust if necessary. Tighten the
l

ocknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig. 26.

2.

Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on.

3.

Connect the link (6) to the lever (14). Adjust­ment is done by selecting one of the three
holes so that the recess and hole in the outer

handle coincide. This is done by inserting a
pin (4) into the hole in the outer handle as
shown in the figure. They should come in

line

when the locking knob (15) is pressed
down, i.e. the lever (7) is pressed down and
the lever (8) moved backwards against the
l

ock.

Late production

1.

Check that the measurement B, Fig. 28=

1

5±

1

mm (0.59 ± 0.04"). Adjust if necessary.

Tighten the locknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig.

26.

2.

Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on.

3.

Connect the link (6) with the lever (14). The

l

ever in the handle is set in such a position
that a pin (4) (3 mm=0.12") can be inserted
i

n the hole in the handle. Adjusting is done
by screwing the link up or down so that the
l

oop of the link (6) comes in line with the
l

ever (14) on the lock.

Rear door

Late production

1.

Check that the measurement B, Fig. 28= 15±

1

mm

(0.59±0.04").

Adjust if necessary.

Tighten the locknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig.

27.

2.

Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on.

3.

Connect the link (6) with the lever (8). The
l

ever in the handle is set in such a position
that a pin (4) (3 mm=0.12") can be inserted
i

n the hole in the handle. Adjusting is done
by screwing the link up or down so that the

l

oop of the link (6) comes in line with the
l

ever (8) on the lock.

P 120

Inner locking knob

With the locking knob in the pressed-down posi­tion,

measurement C, Fig. 28 should be 12± 1 mm

(0.47 ± 0.04") for both the front and rear door.

STRIKER BLOCK

The striker block (Fig. 29) is made of steel and

fitted

with

a floating nut plate. The block is
adjustable since the holes in the body have a
l

arger diameter than that of the attaching screws.

The vertical position of the striker block is checked

by closing the door with the press-button of the

outer handle pressed in, when the dowel pin should
slide correctly into the striker block. N.B. This should
be done immediately after the striker block has

been fitted.

Ventilation windows

REMOVING AND FITTING

The ventilation window is built in with one of the
guide rails for the winding window. A suitable pro­cedure for removing the ventilation window with
sealing strips is as follows:

1.

Carry out operations 1-

5 under "Removing

the door upholstery".

2.

Unscrew the five screws which hold the win­dow to the door and door arch, see Figs. 30

and 31.

VOLVO

1

01 040

Fig. 30.

Attaching screw for ventilation window

8

1

3

P 120

8-

1

4

Fig. 31.

Upper attaching screw for ventilation

window

3.

Unscrew the screws which hold the guide rail
for the winding window, see Fig. 32. This only
applies to the extended guide rail on the front
doors.

4.

Remove the upper guide strip with a screw-

driver as shown in Fig. 33.

5.

Lift up the window as shown in Fig. 34.

Fig. 33. Removing upper guide strip

VOLVO

1

01 039

VOLVO

23250

Fig. 32.

Attaching screw for winding window

guide rail

VOLVO

23246

Fig. 34.

Lifting out the ventilation window

Window winder with mechanism

REMOVING AND FITTING

Carry out operations 1-5 under "Removing the

door upholstery".

Carry out operations 1-5 under "Ventilation win­dows, removing and fitting".

1.

Remove the clip which holds the carrier on the
winding cable to the rail under the window
and lift it up as shown in Fig. 35. On the rear
doors there is no carrier and the clip fits

directly on the winding chain.

2.

Release the cable tensioning device by
slackening the nut for the catch screw on the
l

ower pulley. Lift off the cable and chain.

3.

If

necessary remove the upper pulley, lower

pulley

with tensioning device and winding
sprocket itself. The winding sprocket is remov­ed by unscrewing the four screws, Fig. 36,
after which the sprocket with shaft is lifted out.

Before fitting the winding window, make sure
that the guide strips and seals are in good
condition.

Worn or

,

damaged parts must be

replaced.

The cable for the winding mechanism should

be tensioned well but not too hard. Lubricate
the cable and chain with grease and the pulley
and winding sprocket with oil.
After fitting, check that the window runs easily
i

n the guide rails.

VOLVO

23248

Fig. 35.

Removing clip for carrier

Sealing strips

A.

BONDED STRIPS

The following procedure is recommended when fitt­i

ng new rubber strips:

1.

Remove the old strips.

2.

All traces of old adhesive should be care-

fully removed from the metal surfaces with

petrol or similar. It is most important to carry

this

out carefully since no residue from old

adhesive must be left on the metal, but at the

same time care must be taken to make sure

that the paintwork is not damaged by the
solvent

used.

(Requirements:

clean

rags,

wooden putty knife).

3.

The new rubber strips should be thoroughly

cleaned with petrol, methylated spirit or simi­l

ar. (Requirements: clean rags, fibre brush).

4.

After they have dried, the rubber strips should

be

coated with Dekalin TH or equivalent and

then allowed to dry to a non-tacky state, which

usually takes about 15 minutes. (Requirements:

thick hair brush).

5.

The metal surfaces to which the rubber strips
are to be attached are then coated with
Dekalin TH. (Requirements: thick hair brush).

6.

The treated and non-tacky rubber strips are
then pressed on to the newly-coated adhesive
on the metal.

7.

The rubber strips should be pressed firmly
against the metal surfaces so that there is no
air trapped in the joints.
N.B.

Wait for at least 15 minutes after the strips

have been applied before closing the door.

P 120

VOLVO

23249

Fig. 36.

Removing sprocket

B.

STRIPS ATTACHED WITH FASTENING RAIL

On late production vehicles the sealing strip is
attached by means of a fastening rail which is spot­welded to the door.
The sealing strip is removed by pulling it outwards,
when the ridge of the strip releases from the rail.
When fitting the sealing strip, one of the ridges is

placed in position in the rail, after which the other
ridge is pressed down into the rail with the help
of a screwdriver. This is moved along the rail as
shown in Fig. 37.

Fig. 37.

Fitting sealing strip for door

8-15

P 120

Luggage compartment lid, 2- and

4-door models

The luggage compartment lid is mounted on two

hinges, both of which are attached by means of

three screws to the inner plate of the lid and with

t

wo screws to the plate under the rear window.
The holes in the part of the hinges fitted in the lid
are oval so as to permit longitudinal adjustment. In
order to obtain lateral adjustment the holes in the
body under the rear window are made larger than
the diameter of the screws. These screws are access­i

ble after the insulating material round the edge of
the rear window has been removed.
When removing the luggage compartment lid, ten­sion

must first be removed from the torsion rods
which support the lid.
Apply tool

SVO 2572

as shown in Fig.

38

and prise
down the loop on the torsion rod until the catch
releases.

Move aside the catch and let the torsion

rod move back. Remove the torsion rod attachment

i

n the body. The other end of the tool is used as

shown in Fig.

39.

Prise upwards with the tool so
that the bent part of the torsion rod slides out of
the groove. Hold the tool in this position and grasp

the middle of the torsion rod with one hand and

pull it outwards as shown in Fig.

39

so that it
releases from the bracket when the tool is moved
back and the torsion rod is relieved of tension.

The locking device on vehicles with chassis num-

bers lower then

21000

isattached with two screws
and a circlip on the body under the luggage
compartment lid. The locking device is released
by pressing in the lockable press button. The lock­i

ng clamp on the lower edge of the luggage com­partment lid is adjustable in order to permit varia­tion

of the tightness with which the lid can be

l

ocked.
When removing the lock, the two screws at the
edge of the luggage compartment opening in the
body are removed as well as the circlip round the
l

ock press-button, see Fig. 40.

When fitting, the
circlip is first fitted and then the screws. Make sure
that the rubber washer round the lock button seals
properly.
The locking device on vehicles with effect from
chassis

21000

isattached to the luggage compart­ment lid by means of screws. The catch fitting is
attached to the body with two screws. The lock is
adjusted by screwing the link

(5,

Fig. 41) up or
down. The lock cylinder (2) is attached to the
handle with a nut. The catch fitting is provided
with oval holes in order to permit adjustment.

8-

1

6

Fig.

38.

Releasing the torsion rod

Fig.

39.

Removing the torsion rod

VOLVO
1

01 060

VOLVO

1

01 061

23235

Fig. 40.

Removing circlip for lock press-button

TAILGATE, STATION WAGON

Upper tailgate

REMOVING THE UPPER TAILGATE

1.

Unscrew the upper support from the tailgate.

2.

Late production. Unscrew the gas spring from

the tailgate.

3.

Carefully pull down the headlining at the rear
edge beginning in the middle and continuing

outwards towards the corners. The teazel strip

at the corners is bent out slightly with a putty

knife. The fabric is then carefully lifted off the

projection of the teazel strip with the help

of the putty knife. Remove the headlining

fabric up to the rear stretcher as shown in

Fig. 42.

P 120

4.

Unscrew the nuts for the hinges and remove
the latter.

FITTING THE UPPER TAILGATE

1.

Place the hinges with packings in position.

Screw on the nuts, adjust the position of the

tailgate and tighten the nuts.

2.

Fold the plastic strip for the headlining as

shown in Fig. 43 and press it up into position
with the help of the putty knife. Attach the

fabric at the corners as shown in Fig. 44.

3.

Adjust the teazel strip against the body with

a hammer and piece of rubber as shown in

Fig. 45.

VOLVO

1

00 954

Fig. 42.

Headlining fabric removed to expose

upper tailgate hinge nuts

Fig. 43. Folding and fitting rear plastic strip

VOLVO

1

00 951

817

Fig. 41.

Lock for luggage compartment

li

d,

l

ate production

1.

Handle

5.

Link

2.

Lock cylinder

6.

Guide spring

3.

Lock mechanism

7.

Lock

4.

Rubber bush

8.

Catch fitting

P 120

VOLVO

100 953

Fig.

44.

Fitting headlining fabric in corner

8-

1

8

Fig. 45.

Adjusting teazel strip

Fig. 46.

Window moulding

A. Indentations

B.

Rubber strip

C.

Sealing compound

D.

Rubber strip

VOLVO

1

00 952

TRIM MOULDINGS

Waist mouldings

The waist mouldings, and the upper trim moulding

for the door on the

P 120

2-door model, are

attached

with clips. The mouldings are removed

with the help of a putty knife with which they are

carefully unfastened. Before fitting the mouldings,
the holes should be filled with sealing compound.

Window mouldings

REMOVING

Wind down the window. Apply masking tape or
similar as shown in Fig.

47

i

n order to protect the
paintwork. From inside, place a screwdriver under
the rear edge of the moulding in line with the in­dentations which secure it, see Figs. 46 and 48. Prise

carefully upwards with the screwdriver and at the

same time pull outwards and downwards with the
hand so that the rear retaining spring can be hooked
off

with SVO

2297,

see Fig.

49.

Carefully pull out

the moulding backwards.

FITTING

Stick the profile rubber strips at both ends of the

window moulding and apply sealing compound

along the inner section of the moulding, see Fig.46.
Place the retaining springs in position and apply
sealing compound as shown in Fig. 50. Push the
window moulding in position under the rubber strip
of the ventilation window as shown in Fig. 51. Lift
the inner ridge of the moulding over the metal
edge of the door and press down so that the inden­tations, Fig. 46, locate in the holes in the sheet

metal edge. Press up the retaining springs with

SVO 2297,

see Fig. 52.

Moulding for rear side window,
Station Wagon

When fitting the clips for the moulding, one of the
l

egs is inserted in the recess in the moulding, the
clip pressed together and the other leg inserted.
Apply sealing compound over the fastenings and
press the moulding into position.

Fig. 47.

Application of masking tape

Fig, 48.

Removing window moulding

Fig. 49.

Removing spring

P 120

Fig. 50. Position of springs

Fig. 51.

Fitting window moulding

Fig. 52. Fitting spring

8--19

P 120

Fig. 53.

Removing trim moulding

8--

2

0

Fig. 55.

Removing trim moulding

VOLVO
199 969

VOLVO

1

00 968

Fig. 54.

Removing trim moulding from rubber strip

VOLVO

1

00 966

Trim mouldings, windscreen

REMOVING

1.

Remove the trim moulding from the rubber
strip

by inserting a moistened nylon putty

knife

between the strips and moving it all,
round, see Fig. 53. (Do not pull off the trim
moulding).

2.

Push over the joining pieces to one of the
halves of the moulding.

3.

Remove the trim moulding by prising out the

ridge

of the rubber strip from the trim mould­i

ng with a moistened wooden putty knife and
releasing the trim moulding in the middle with
another putty knife as shown in Fig. 54. Prise
off the moulding carefully while releasing the
rubber strip with the other putty knife, see Fig.

55.

FITTING
Moisten a 4.0 mm (5/32") leather cord in soap solu­tion or paraffin and place it in the groove of the
rubber strip for the trim moulding. Place one half
of the trim moulding in position and hold it there
while pulling the leather cord out upwards over
the

moulding so that it is pressed against the

rubber strip as shown in Fig.

56.

Push on the

j

oining pieces and repeat the procedure with the
other half of the moulding. Adjust the position of
the joining pieces over the joints.

Trim mouldings, rear window

[

2- and 4-door models]

REMOVING

1.

Push the joining pieces at the lower corners

backwards. Release the lower trim moulding
by pressing it upwards out of the rubber strip
with a wooden putty knife. Pull the trim
moulding upwards carefully and follow round
with the putty knife.

2.

Release the side mouldings in the same way
with the putty knife and remove them. Remove
the angular joining pieces by pulling them
downwards and turning inwards at the same
ti

me.

3.

Remove the upper trim moulding in the same

way as the lower one.

FITTING

1.

Moisten a 4.0 mm (5/32") feather cord in soap
solution or paraffin

and place it in the groove

of the rubber strip for the trim moulding. Start

and finish at one of the upper corners.

i

ngs".

3.

Release the rubber strip both from the wind-

screen and sheet metal by inserting a wooden

putty knife moistened in synthetic washing
solution (the putty knife should be moistened
now and then during the course of the work)
between the rubber strip and windscreen and
between the rubber strip and sheet metal
respectively.

4.

Start removing the rubber strip in the upper
l

eft-hand corner by prising the rubber strip
over the sheet metal edge from inside and
at the same time carefully pulling out the strip
from outside with a pair of grips as shown in
Fig. 57. Then carefully pull off the strip by
hand all round as shown in Fig. 58 and remove
the windscreen.
Remove all sealing compound from the sheet
metal. If it has dried on, first carefully scrape
off the sealing compound and then wash clean
with naphtha. Check that the sheet metal edge

is

not deformed. If the sealing compound has
not dried on, clean the rubber strip with naph­tha, otherwise replace it.

FITTING THE WINDSCREEN

1.

Place the windscreen on a stand as shown
i

n Fig. 59. Moisten the outer edge of the
windscreen and fit the rubber strip starting
at one of the corners. Adjust the strip so that
it lies correctly all round.

Fig. 57.

Releasing rubber strip

Fig. 58.

Removing rubber strip

P 120

VOLVO

1

00 967

VOLVO

1

00 910

8-21

Fig. 56. Fitting trim moulding

2.

Place the upper trim moulding in position and
press it up against the rubber strip. Pull out
the leather cord and press in the trim mould­i

ng at the same time. Fit the angular joining

pieces.

3.

Press on the side mouldings and push them
up into the joining pieces. Fit the side mould-

i

ngs in the same way as the upper trim

moulding.

4.

Fit the lower trim moulding in the same way
as the upper one. Fit the lower joining pieces.

WINDOWS
Windscreen

REMOVING THE WINDSCREEN

1.

Remove the interior rear view mirror, interior
trim

mouldings round the windscreen and the
windscreen wiper arms. Place protective pad­ding over the bonnet, front seats and back­rests.

2.

Remove the trim mouldings as described in
operations 1-3, "Removing the trim mould-

P 120

8-

2 2

Fig. 60. Placing cord in rubber strip

Fig. 61.

Fitting windscreen

VOLVO

24813

Fig. 62.

Applying sealing compound

VOLVO

1

01 141

Fig. 59.

Stand for windscreen when fitting

rubber strip

A.

Sheet of plywood,15

mm(19/32")

B.

Foam plastic, 1-1.5"

C.

Storage compartment

D.

Hooks for sealing compound gun

2.

Fit a cord (preferably terylene) of a suitable
size in the groove of the rubber strip for the

sheet metal edge, beginning at the top centre

as shown in Fig, 60.

3.

Place the windscreen in position with rubber
strip fitted.

Wearing working gloves, carefully
strike the windscreen a few blows with the
palm of the hand so that it makes good con­tact all round. Then carefully pull out the cord
from inside.

4.

This

will

cause the rubber strip to "creep"
over the sheet metal edge as shown in Fig. 61.
It

may sometimes be necessary to adjust the

position of the windscreen with the palm of
the hand. If the cord is difficult to pull out, this
may cause damage to the strip, in which case
strike the windscreen from inside with the

palm of the hand and vice versa if the rubber

strip does not "creep" over the edge of the

sheet metal properly.

5.

Check that the rubber strip seals well all

round. If necessary adjust the position of the

windscreen both vertically and laterally by
striking with the palm of the hand.

6.

Fit the trim mouldings as previously described.

7.

Seal the joints between the rubber strip and

windscreen and rubber strip and sheet metal

with sealing compound using a gun with a flat

nylon nozzle as shown in Fig, 62. Make sure

that the sealing compound fills the joint well.

Scrape off surplus sealing compound and

wash the windscreen and sheet metal with

naphtha and then polish clean.

8.

Fit the interior trim mouldings, rear view mirror

and windscreen wiper arms.

Rear window

REMOVING AND FITTING

See the corresponding sections under the heading
"Windscreen".

Rear ventilation window, 2-door model

REMOVING

Unscrew the two safety belt attaching bolts, remove
the entry handle and lift off the cover plate, after
which the ventilation window hinge screws are
accessible, see Fig. 63.

SEATS

Front seats

REMOVING, EARLY PRODUCTION

Lift

out the seat cushion. Press down the catch for

adjusting the longitudinal position of the seat and

push the seat forwards until the slide rails release
from the frame. It may be necessary to lift the pull

wire for the catch halfway between the slide rails.

An intermediate production type has a plastic wed-

ge which limits the movement of the catch. This

wedge must be taken out before the seat can be
removed.

REMOVING, LATE PRODUCTION

Unfasten the press-button which holds the seat
cushion to the frame and remove the seat cushion.

Unscrew the four attaching screws for the slide rails.

Lift off the seat.

ADJUSTING THE FRONT SEAT, LATE PRODUCTION

1.

The inclination of the seat is adjusted with the
eyebolt (1, Fig. 64) at the front edge of the

seat. Slacken the adjusting screw and adjust

the eyebolt to the desired position.

2.

The height of the seat is adjusted by attaching

the rail in a suitable hole in the bracket (2).

3.

The lumbar support is adjusted with the screw
(3).

On a number of earlier vehicles with lum-

bar support where the adjusting device does

not have a countersink, the adjusting screw

can most easily be found by pressing the up­holstery at the adjusting screw hole slightly

downwards and backwards.

Rear seat, Station Wagon

REMOVING THE BACKREST

Release the catch and tip the backrest slightly for-

wards.

Move aside the nylon washer at the lower

l

eft-hand corner of the backrest and insert a narrow

screwdriver as shown in Fig. 65. Press in the conical
catch pin and lift out the backrest.

Fig, 63.

Attachment of rear ventilation window

Fig. 64.

Front seat

1.

Adjustmentofseat inclination

2.

Adjustmentofseat height

3.

Adjustment of lumbar support

4.

Longitudinal adjustmentofseat

5.

Adjustment of backrest inclination

P 120

8-23

P 120

Fig. 65.

Releasing catch for removing rear seat

backrest on Station Wagon

824

Fig. 66.

Underside of rear seat backrest,

Station

Wagon

VOLVO

1

01 0:8

VOLVO

1

00 955

To remove the upholstery, undo the lacing at the
l

ower edge, open the zip-fastener, after which the
upholstery can be removed, see Fig. 66.
When fitting the backrest, place the nylon washer
on the pin and fit the right-hand pin in position.
Move the left-hand, conical pin towards the upper

side of the fitting, move the nylon washer over the
fitting

and press down the seat. If necessary, the

catch can be moved aside with a screwdriver.

REMOVING LOCK MECHANISM FOR BACKREST

The lock mechanism is accessible after the lacing
at the lower edge of the backrest has been undone,
the zip-fastener opened, see Fig. 66, and the up­holstery removed.

UPHOLSTERY

Repairing inner roof (headlining)

STRETCHING THE HEADLINING FOR REMOVING
SMALL HOLES AT THE OUTER EDGE

Inmost cases where there are small holes at the
outer edge of the headlining it is sufficient just to
stretch it.

1.

Remove the interior light, sun visors, rear view
mirror and upper part of the windscreen trim
moulding.

Remove the side mouldings as

shown in Fig. 67.

2.

Release the trim strip. Prise out the teazel strip
with the help of a putty knife.

3.

Pull out the trim strip as shown in Fig. 68 and

remove the headlining from the teazel strip
with the help of a putty knife.

4.

Stretch the headlining so that the damaged

part can be tucked in behind the teazel strip

as shown in Fig. 69. The headlining should be

stretched

well,

but not too hard so that it

wrinkles.

5.

Place the trim strip•i

n position and knock the
teazel strip against the side of the body with
the help of a hammer and piece of rubber as
shown in Fig. 70.

6.

Fit the interior light, sun visors, rear view
mirror and trim mouldings for the windscreen,
see Fig. 71.

Fig. 67. Inner trim mouldings removed

Fig. 68.

Headlining and trim strip released

Fig. 69.

Stretching the headlining

Fig. 70.

Knocking in the teazel strip

Fig. 71.

Fitting sun visor

Fig. 72.

Cutting away the headlining

P 120

8-25

P 120

REPLACING THE HEADLINING, 2- AND 4-DOOR
VEHICLES

1.

Remove the interior light, sun visors, rear view
mirror and upper part of the trim moulding for
the

windscreen. Release the side mouldings

as shown in Fig. 67.

2.

Cut away the old headlining as shown in Fig.

72.

3.

Remove the trim strip and remainder of the old

headlining.

4.

Adjust the teazel strip so that it fits well against
the trim strip and check the screws of the teazel

strip.

5.

Fit the stretchers in the new headlining. N.B.
The stretchers are numbered 1-5 with 1 at
the front next to the windscreen. Make sure
that the stretchers are provided with rubber
caps at the ends.

6.

Fit the headlining starting at the back, see
Fig. 73. The rear stretchers are attached with
clips,

one on each side. The other stretchers
are placed on the sheet metal edge over the
doors. The stretchers should stand vertically.

7.

Fold over the plastic strip and fit above the

windscreen as shown in Fig. 74.

8.

Fit the headlining above the rear window
as described in point 7. The seam running

across at the back should come at an equal

distance from both the corners of the rear
window, see Fig. 75.

9.

Stick the headlining to the body metal at the

rear window and to the wheel arch plate.

10.Fit the sun visors, see Fig. 71.

11.

Stretch up the headlining in the teazel strip.
This is done stretcher by stretcher beginning

on both sides with stretcher 1, then stretcher

2, 3 and so on. The headlining is pushed in

and straight upwards so that there are no
creases at the windscreen or rear window. Do
not secure the headlining along the whole
side but leave a piece at the front edge as
shown in Fig. 71.

12.Fit the trim strip.
1

3.

Knock the teazel strip against the body side
with a hammer and piece of rubber as shown
i

n Fig. 70.

14.

Cut out a hole for the interior light. Pull out
the wires and fit the interior light.

15.

Secure the remaining part of the headlining

at the corners of the windscreen.

16.

Fit the windscreen trim moulding.

8-26

Fig. 73.

Fitting rear clip

Fig. 74.

Folding over and fitting the plastic strip

Fig. 75.

Headlining ready for stretching

P 120

Fig. 77.

Removing trim moulding for windscreen

Fig. 76.

Stretching the headlining and attaching

to teazel strip

Instrument panel

REMOVING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL

The instrument panel is secured to the body with screws. These are accessible after the front doors have

been opened and the inner trim moulding for the windscreen removed as shown in Fig. 77.

SPECIAL TOOLS FOR CARRYING OUT WORK ON THE BODY

SVO 2572

SVO 2297

SVO 2486

SVO 2297 Tool for removing clips on door and

window winder handles, and for
removing and fitting spring clips
for window mouldings.

SVO 2486 Tool for fitting plate nut.

SVO 2572 Tool for removing and fitting torsion

stay for luggage compartment lid.

8-21