Union Special 200 User Manual
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•
0
U
L
M
I
B
MACHINES
:,NEST
STYLES
200-1
200-2
200-6
200-7
200-8
200-9
200-10
200-15
200-16
200-17
QUALITY
F
0
\
200-21
200-22
200-23
200-24
200-25
200-26
200-27
CATALOG
No.
194-4
Third
Edition
BUTTON
CLASS
200
SEWING
MACHINES
UNION
SPECIAL
CHICAGO
CORPORATION
Catalog
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
No.
194-4
200-1
200—2
200—6
200—7
200-8
ADJUSTING
200—26
LIST
Third
AND
OF
Styles
200-9
200-tO
200-15
200—16
200-17
Edition
OPERATING
PARTS
200-21
200—22
200—23
200-24
200-25
200—27
Union
Rights
UNION
INDUSTRIAL
1962
©
Special
Reserved
SPECIAL
SEWING
CHICAGO
Printed
and
By
1977
Corporation
All
in
Countries
CORPORATION
MACHINES
in
U.S.A.
2
April,
1981
ii)HN’i[I’[(’A’i’i()N
OP
M/\(
‘III
NIS
Each
ni;o’hi;ies,
‘[he
it
LI
tack.
rililis
All
from
the
Tile
I
[igh
production,
of
fiat
and
eyes,
stitches
drive
200—1
coats,
Sews
ligne.
NOTE:
UNION
seriaL
cataLog
references
operator’s
operating
two
on
with
Right
right
is
hole,
and
some
stop
to
shirts,
Can
1
Ligne
SPEC[AL
stamped
nuinher
applies
single
four
for
motion
Left
to
left,
be
in
of’
to
direction,
position
direction
hole,
tacking
styles,
clutch.
Stitching
pajamas,
equipped
equals
LEWIS
the
each
specifically
of
thread,
and
operations.
and
8,
16,
to
.
025
maclone
style
while
plate
machine
APPLICATION
to
such
as
seated
the
pulley
DESCRIPTION
button
shank
6,
buttons.
12,
Single
Flat
Buttons.
and
similar
32
or
sew
parallel
buttons
inch.
on
is
the
right
is
sewing
Lever
or
24
treadle
garments
40
earrwi;
the
stamped
OF
styles
anti
at
the
away
OF
machines.
Attachments
on
operation.
For
stitches.
30
to
Ligne
a
left
side
in
CATALOG
of
machines
left,
machine.
from
MAChINES
adjusted
others,
two
of
60
ligne
equals
style
of
the
forward
the
or
light,
Equipped
1
tinnihe
the
LLt’lll
right
operator.
Sews
available
stitch
Automatic
four
medium
when
inch.
r,
of
side
listed
as
and
all
popular
range
hole
to
specified.
which
the
herein,
jack,
to
sew
to
sew
stitching
buttons
and
heavy
sew
in
eyhiiidei’
ete,
sizes
snaps,
buttons
this
,
are
and
8,
16
cycle,
on
blouses,
materials.
14
class
towit’d
types
hooks
or
taken
cam
to
of’
32
45
200-2
200-6
diagonal
or
200-7
200-8
32
200—9
200-10
stitches
to
high
200-15
cycle.
with
200-16
Recommended
pockets
200-17
Same
Diagonal
back
Same
Back
parallel
Same
Right
cut
cross-over
quality
Same
certain
Tacking,
Same
as
stitches
to
front
as
Front
to
stitches
as
to
in
four
garments,
as
Primarily
on
trousers,
as
Style
200-1,
Stitching
in
four
with8or
Style
200-6,
Stitching
back
200-8,
except
Left Stitching
hole
buttons
stitch
Style
200-1,
used
types
of
Equipped
for
tacking
size
Style
200-16,
except
Flat
hole
16
except
Flat
to
sews
Flat
between
such
except
with
heavy
automatic
with
bows
tickets,
except
Buttons,
buttons,
stitches.
Buttons,
front
6,
Buttons
only.
men’s
as
tacking
on
sews
sews
in
two
12,
Equipped
the
two
equipped
thread
button
blouses,
and
sews
6,
12,
or
Similar
Two
hole
12,
6,
or
Same
or four
or
24
stitches,
With
No
with
rows
sack coats,
with
where
feeders
clamp.
dresses,
similar
12
6
or
24
stitches.
to
Style 200-1,
buttons
24
stitches.
as
Style
hole
Cross-over
special
of
parallel
suit
knife
for
thread
and
for
Sews
operations.
stitches.
200-1,
buttons,
coats,
cutting
cutter
use
8
or
etc.,
can
Stitch.
knife
stitches.
is
with
16
cuffs
except
be
stitched
except
and
ladies’
thread
needed,
stitches
sews
sews
Sews
nipper
Recommended
suits
at
Recommended
necking
back
on
trousers,
16
right
8,
16
parallel
mechanism
and
of
end
attachment,
to
or
to
16,
coats.
stitch
front.
side
32
left
or
/
for
200-21
For
including
32
stitches.
within
Hopper
other
Rochester
Button
dimensions
Fed
Shank
Shank
Hopper
Buttons,
Button
indicated
handles
Similar
Hopper.
self
on
sketch
to
Stitches
molded
on
Style
next
200-6,
back
shank
page.
3
front
to
buttons
except
and
from
prepared
sews
14
for
and
8,
16,
or
to
30
higne
DES
C
IUPTJON
OF
MACI
[INES
(continued)
200-22
200-23
left
Same
APP[LOX,
(SO
OVERLAPPING)
•I5O
(THIS
VERY
For
Rochester
garments
on
furnished.
available
as
AS
NOT
WIDTH
IMPORTANT)
Hopper
So-Thru
where
two
or
Sample
Rochester
Style
four
200-21,
.065
TO
GET
IS
Flat
Fed
Button
continued
hole
button
So-Thru
except
SHARP
Buttons.
Hopper.
use
buttons
must
Button
sews
±po4
CORNERS
Similar
of
similar
and
be
submitted
Hoppers.
225
For
sews
6,
12,
SIZES
to
use
size
8,
or
1
Style
on
buttons
16,
with
24
14-30
NO.
200-1,
shirts,
or
stitches.
45
is
32
order.
LIGNE
212
DRILL
except
pajamas,
required.
stitches.
•
See
INCLUSIVE
-
.082
prepared
blouses,
Stitches
No
button
Page
35
•05(
DIA.
to
right
for
receive
or
clamp
list
any
to
of
200-24
200-25
200-26
200-27
of
this
for
200-1
Same
Right
coats,
material.
stitches
diagonal
used
Same
Produces
produce
14
to
Right
coats,
material.
buttons
By
the
book,
which
Can
necking
shirts,
on
1/2
24
45
ligne.
shirts,
10
selection
they
be
operations.
Style
as
Left
to
Sews
four
and
there
cycle
as
Style
12
stitches
stitches
to
Left
Sews
to
40
many
are
used for
200-23,
Stitching
pajamas
right
hole
or8stitches.
pajamas
right
buttons
no
is
200-1,
on
on
Stitching
to
to
L[gnc.
of
the
proper
of
these
described.
shank
except
Flat
and
left,
tacking
two
four
Shank
and
left,
machine
A
buttons,
Buttons.
similar
16
and
stitch
Equipped
except
hole
hole
similar
8,
16,
OTHER
attachments,
Styles
list
of
sews
when
buttons
buttons
Buttons.
6,
garments
:J2
or
sews
these
snaps,
parallel
used
previous
to
right
in
in
garments
::2
or
APPLICATIONS
can
variations
12,
For
this
sew
the
the
For
parallel
listed
be
hooks
24
or
two
of
way,
to
buttons
to
half
full
shank
of
and
used
and
stitches.
hole
buttons
light,
stitches.
the
cross-over.
14
to
left,
light,
12
cycle.
cycle.
buttons
stitches.
illustrated
for operations
follows:
eyes,
medium
Can
cross-over
45
ligne.
or
It
Equipped
medium
Equipped
tacking,
on
24
also
on
in
dresses,
and
also
Machine
parallel
may
dresses,
and
the
other
heavy
be
used
stitch
cannot
be
to
sew
heavy
to
sew
Parts
than
shanking,
blouses,
weight
for
will
stitches.
used
buttons
blouses,
weight
shank
section
those
16
be
be
to
and
200-2
Same
variations
as
for
Style
200-1.
4
200—6
(biii
and
be
ice
used
ipopo
k
for
oil!
shank
rat
CRACP
buttons,
ions
I
;inc]
niwd)
t
shank—
eyes,
drapery
rings,
laRki
ug,
(Con
()NS
[CA
I.
hooks
200—]
200—8
200—P
200—10
200—
and
200—16
rings.
200—17
starts.
seconds
tile
Page
Same
Can
Same
Can
IuCan
neck
(bun
Same
These
at
Most
fact
14,
ing
machines
Use
1000
of
they
will
var
used
he
var
used
be
used
be
opera
used
he
variations
a
good
tile
are
be
ions
Lt
Co
oils
i
i
at
for
for
1
t
for
should
grade
Fahrenheit.
oiling
painted
beneficial.
as
snaps
r
as
shanking
shank
Oils
two
as
places
for
for
for
be
of
red.
,
buttons,
ho
straight
Style
drapery
Style
operations
buttons,
e
1
Style
oiled
on
However,
OILING
the
200—6.
rings
200—8.
snaps
200—16.
twice
mineral
machines
,
,
sti
telied
daily,
reference
Lacking
hooks
before
oil
are
and
back
of
readily
to
,
a
the
and
eves
to
tile
Saybolt
sluanking
,
tacking,
front
morning
identifiable
oiling
only,
viscosity
diagram
ope
and
ions
rat
shanking
and
drapery
afternoon
of
because
Fig.
90
13,
,
and
125
to
of
on
open
places.
of
grease
pulley
greasing
are
short
should
of
the
a
stay
Please
the
Also
should
oiled.
Tubes
The
Needles
shank,
Generally
be
button,
button
note
hinged
note
is
base
that
furnished
be
place
is
grease
of
recommended
for
and
speaking,
used.
thickness
is
that
covers
there
removed,
indicated
may
speed
these
long
making
In
be
to
it
will
with
be
machines
with
the
of
used.
and
is
the
the
by
ordered
of
extra
the
material,
be
tilt
label
a
machine,
grease
the
these
are
shortest
selection,
necessary
machine
on
level
letter
under
SPEED
machines
NEEDLES
divided
short
the
and
shank.
needle
amount
to
remove
on
its
pulley
periodically,
checked
‘TAfl
part
is
into
in
the
No.
1500
three
required
consideration
of
shanking
arm
side
which
and
diagram.
28604
R.P.M.
cover
to reach
reads
replenished
P.
categories
to
perform
should
required,
the
and s-ide
some
HGrease
plug
screw
if
other
All
—
short,
a
given
be
given
and
cover,
of
the
Her&’.
in
recuuired.
places
long
operation
to
the
whether
oiling
the
and
tube
A
shown
with
height
or
to
Tile
not
5
the
height
long
the
extra
be
set
catalog.
For
shank
Available
Blade
Dia.
•
036”
•
040”
•
044”
•
049”
•
057”
For
use
needle
For
use
long
In
changing
to
the
of
the
needles
29S—090/036
29S—100/040
29S—1l0/044
29S—125/049
with
with
with
needle
proper
buttons,
work
Short
large
extra
extra
from
support
for
short
with
short
timing
the
the
diameter
large
extra
to
lines
NEEDLES
diameter
block
Class
29LSS-090/036
29LSS-100/040
29LSS-ll0/044
29LSS—125/049
29LSS-140/054
shank
diameter
short
long
of
should
200
Long
With
Short
Shank
shank
recommended.
is
needles,
described
as
(Continued)
the
machines
buttons,
shank
shank
button,
considered.
be
29LES-J
29LES—110/044
29LES—125/049
buttons
is
recommended.
or
vice
in
are:
and
versa,
the
the
Long
With
Extra
Short
Shank
high
and
adjusting
thickness
00/040
work
high
the
needle
the
of
Extra
With
Short
29ELS-l10/044
29ELS—125/049
support
work
instructions
support
bar
shank,
Long
Extra
Shank
block,
height
block,
must
in
this
and
the
sewed
and
sample
read:
it
as
tighten
has
Unless
off
Machine
200—15
200—16
Selection
the
type
To
have
needle,
“100
When
wiligo,
set
A
cross
been
instructions
and
200—1
200—2
200—6
200—7
200—8
200—9
200—10
of
Needles,
changing
with
screw
hole
inserted
shipped
Style
proper
of
button
needle
or
used.
orders
the
Type
the
the
long
securely.
drilled
as
far
to
the
contrary
with
the
following
Needle
29S—
100
040
/
29S—100/040
29LSS-110/044
29LSS—110/044
29LSS—110/044
29LSS—100/040
29LSS—110/044
29S—100/040
29S—110/044
needle
type
needle,
in
as
size
promptly
number
29LSS-110/044”.
CHANGING
make
groove
the
needle
it
will
is
determined
and
should
sure
to
the
bar
go.
are
received,
needle
accurately
be
NEEDLES
that
front
can
specifications:
Machine
200—17
200—21
200-22
200—23
200-24
200—25
200—26
200—27
size
by
forwarded.
it
is
inserted
and
the
also
be
machines
Style
thread,
of
filled,
spot
used
an
A
in
or
scarf
to
determine
in
Class
Needle
29S—
29LSS—110/044
29LSS—110/044
29S—100/040
29S—100/040
29S—100/040
29S-100/040
29LES—110/044
weight
empty
complete
the
needle
to
200
110/044
of
container,
order
bar
the
rear,
if
the
will
material,
would
as
needle
be
a
far
and
Immediately
discard
any
needle
which
6
may
have
hooked
a
or
blunt
point.
lip.
‘Jo
13,
Lb
iad
Page
iuaeli
Ui.
‘l’i
I
RIAI).[NC1
ii
IC,
)UI.
ill
S
IOJ)
position,
ADJUSTING
and
thread
ill
accordance
with
cliagrani.
opu
‘I
‘
b
I
operated,
operating
With
set
so
plunger
obtain
to
there
the
pulley
set
CAUTION
i’ations
ALb
depress
direction.
the
that
lever
this
is
1/32
is
screw
UntIl
—
machine
there
bracket
setting.
inch
pressed
(L)
Do
L’eady
ZB
A—
I
ig.
the
is
clearance
is
nut
run
to
H
1
operating
in
stop
3/8
(B).
Lock
intowards
securely
the
sew.
ADJUSTING
position,
inch
Loosenthe
the
between
tightened.
machine
-.P’
treadle,
clearance
back
machine.
nut.
ball
the
back
Lindel’
with
one
produce
and
ence
position’’
in
pawl
position
and
CLUTCH
stop
between
lock
Adjust
(G)
Lock
power
The
a
pressure
automatically
In
the
is
This
Fig.
(K)
To
turn
motion
nut
screw
and
screw
Class
cycling
6,
made
1
against
release
the
the
(C),
the
during
12,
followinç
position
with
so
pulley
plunger
bottom
and
(E)
thin
with
the
200
mechanism,
on
the
24,
to
‘
is
the
the
the
that
and
of
adjust
in
section
nut(H).
following
machines
operating
or
8,
stops.
instructions,
the
machine
that
stop
plunger
machine
it
may
stop
(A,
Fig.
the
cam
lever
of
16,
which
motion
motion
plunger
the
lever
Make
are
which,
(A).
be
1)
front
(F)
adjusting
equipped
treadle,
32
stitches
in
is
disc
from
manually
disc
should
and
nut
so
(F)
sure
with
refer
stop
shown
and
stop
in
be
the
(D)
that
when
that
(PRIOR
With
loosen
(A,
rotate
between
cam.
Depress
out
of
complete
tion.
distance
highest
This
trip
lever
it
be
ADJUSTING
TOSER.
the
the
Fig.
2)
cam
roller
stop
revolutions
Release
between
point
adjustment
and
necessary
to
position,
two
in
secure
the
on
STOP
machine
socket
stop
(C)
treadle
treadle
plunger
disc
moving
to
NO.
motion
1
and
and
in
(B).
is
move
MOTION
in
head
32
/
front
to
rotate
operating
made
lever
lever
1368377)
stop
set
cam
inch
clearance
of
take
pulley
and
Fig.
(A,
The
by
up
position,
screws
(B)
slot
machine
direc
measure
3)
distance
loosening
or
down
down,
and
in
two
and
depress
should
to
secure
7
p
clamp
the
be
C
3/32
screw
the
treadle
inch.
3/32
Fig.
(D,
while
,(
Fig.
inch
—.
2
2)
clearance.
making
NI
in
stop
adjustment.
motion
Should
Iffective
Assembly
With
2A)
lig.
elongated
“right
front
the
NOTE:
Depress
complete
between
1/4
be
stop
Should
adiustment.
motion
the
and
cam”
of
1.
revolutions
plunger
inch.
become
it
with
has
machine
screw
slot
(I))
slot
This
associated
the
Adjustment
trip
Retighten
been
(as
as
in
dimension
treadle
(A,
necessary
AI)J
Serial
incorporated,
in
(13).
viewed
required
cam
adjustments.
in
operating
Fig.
lever
clamp
No.
stop
(D);
to
3A)
can
and
USTIN(
position,
Rotate
Fig.
in
to
tighten
MUST
take
and
be
moving
move
to
screw
STOP
1368377,
for
“left
2A)
obtain
set
remain
machine
direction.
the
made
the
which
cam”
1/32
highest
by
lever
lever
(F).
I\IOTI(
an
loosen
and
screws
constant:
out
Release
loosening
up
)N
‘improved’’
following
the
the
counterclockwise
(C)
tighten
stop
point
or
clearance
(A).
down
depress
inch
of
down,
(Conlin
two
screw
regardless
position,
treadle
disc
on
clamp
to
ued)
Stop
instructions
socket
screw
attain
Motion
(B).
between
and
(13).
the
head
Rotate
of
then
measure
The
(F,
sp3cified
treadle
Cam
set
to
other
rotate
distance
Fig.
apply:
screws.
the
cam
roller
the
while
(e:
and
of
top
(C)
(1)
related
pulley
distance
should
2A)
in
clearance.
making
r
(A
its
and
and
or
two
the
Step
Step
Step
NOTE:
SOFT
1.
2.
3.
Withthemachineinsto?position,
Advance
(B).
“right
the
to
above.
1
machine
disc
catch
“left
to
(A
reference
shoe
the
properly,
and
rotating
by
the
denoting
cam”(C,Fig.
the”right
and
knob
using
(H)
I,
2.
NOTE
Operate
adjusted
the
Should
checked
not
position),
retard
relative
screws
With
adjusting
cam
“left
cam”
machine
stops.
pawl
disc
B).
to
has
STOP
carn’(C)
(D).
and
the
Should
(K,
disc
and pawl,
cam
cam”(D).
(A,
been
upper
the
impact
2A)
Fig.
ADJUSTMENT
by
Retighten
check
this
Fig.
towards
is
advanced
by
5)
replaced
or
loosen
rotating
the
and
condition
stop
1)
the
rotating
Refer
under
lower
screws
noise
the
machine
to
screw
by
hole
screws
it
clockwise,
(A
and
stop
beyond
motion
will
noticeably
still
short
it
“STITCH
of
operator
has
proper
counterclockwise,
NOTE
in
1
(G,
“eft
(A,
Fig.
SLIGHTLY,
after
13)
parformance.
exist,
not
plunger
if the
and
reached
not
setting.To
above,
SETTINGS”,
2A)
Fig.
cam”(C),
2A)
decrease
repeat
(A),
before
which
as
and
relative
referring
(this
plunger
its
stopped
correct:
SLIGHTLY,
securing
the
secures
applicable.
screw
When
when
Step
can
stitch
to
1.
be
does
cJ7jzñ
Fig.
2A
8
Fig.
3A
—
complete
n:i.eiunc
Liy
.[urti
unLL[
coming
loosen
turn
machine
screws
Loosen
cams
timing
iii
(D)
securely,
rfhe
machine
link,
p
iirst
these
pulley
(B)
(A)
lines
bed,
I.
revolutions
on
pulLey
screws
].nLO
View
in
again
is
arc
the
in
(C)
Itetighten
button
in
stop
it
two
ope
at
its
in
two
I.e
5
iii
in
arc
Sc
rati.i
view.
to
III
(ic
o)e1:aLiIig
LcceSSItilc,
ec
w5,
ig
in
stop
screws
Lake
01
in-
either direction
on
cams
all
whh
four
ADJUSTING
clamp
lilting
position,
)C
I
eec
position
the
(
i
iaeii
atLng
(lirertiodi
iig.
(A,
Conlinue
on
Li
and
U)
to
timing
cam
sc
link
lip
‘r[IVIiNG
on
inc
(I
LecuLon.
4)
and
1:0
until
and
turn
align
pins
CWS
CLAMP
iig.
(E,
on
the
L
fork
CAMS
ol
to1)
S
oosen
LIFTING
is
4)
lever
in
pos
knurled
proper
(F)
it
LINK
is
ii,
and
Screw
Fig.
position,
engaged
3
rotate
(J,
in
when,
the
pn
Fig.
slot
[Icy
with
1)
of
two
and
the
the
Forward
screw
Adjustment
moving
The
or
24
(G)
fork
cams
stitches
in
and
lever
lever
and
or
backward
(Ii)
and
the
on
fork
shaft,
of
COMBINATIONS
gears
8,
16,
furnished
or
w
H
ad,j
ustment
moving
lever
32
0
(F)
stitches,
of
lever
is
made
OF
STITCHES AVAILABLE
with the
depending
the
on
link
is
accomplished
shaft,
loosening
by
Class
are
1,
2,
obtained
With
8
stitches
for
With
200
on
four
stitches per
3.
With
stitches per
SETTING
screws
machines
Style,
the
as
follows:
one
half
cycle
per
button,
buttons,
hole
one
cycle
of
button,
two
cycles
of
button.
FOR
EIGHT STITCHES
by
in
will
loosening
collars
produce
clamp
(J)
6,
These combinations
cam
Cannot
shaft,
shaft,
OR
shaft,
12
24
be
or
or
of
cam
cam
SIX
and
12,
6
used
or
16
32
Figure
position
stitches,
slot,
At
at the
simply
this
bottom
point,
Fig,
pull
out
the
the
open,
position,
The
stitch
gap
knob
4
the
slot
stitch
will
arid
adjusting
be
of
gap
on
the
(B)
(B)
and
adjusting
is
(A)
9
shows
5
set
closed.
and
for
raise
the
knob
To
12
it
change
to
machine
or
16
(A)
is
the
in
stitches,
at
its
6
to
top
of
stop
low
or
the
8
SETTING
FOR
SIX
OR
EIGHT
STITCHES
(continued)
When
possible
hold
24
to
(A,
Fig.
stitch
the
screw
will
in
lever
or
32
5)
(F).
have to
setting
relation
down,
(D)
stitches,
to
the
adjusting
should
It
be
for
Fio’.5
front.
knob
re-cycled
6
to
raise
HO
the
be
or
the
machine
(A)
at
3,
or
lever
latch
F
If
the
and move
the
once
or
12
(D).
(C)
must
machine
bottom
to
bring
as
16
be
it
as
stitches,
make
To
high
stitches,
position
(A,
the
the
Gap
in
is
to
the
shown
screw
the
latch(C)
this
adjustment,
will
SIXTEEN
changing
the
with
towards
5)
adjusting
of
now
FOR
6
or
of
Fig.
proper
go,
machine
the
its
8
stitch
its
5.
as
it
SETTING
When
Fig.
stitch
bottom
will
(B)
SETTING
THIRTY
Whenchangingfrom6or
position
stop
in
the
bottom
in
into
(F)
must
and
FOR
STITCHES
from
stitch
the
knob
slot
closed,
be
TWENTY
TWO
with
slot.
it
If
position.
be
loosen
retighten
TWELVE
6
or8to
must
adjusting
front.
(A)
as
shown
STITCHES
stitch
position,
Check
is
not,
set
as
screw
screw
OR
be
Pull
and
move
in
FOUR
8,
or
adjusting
pull
position
the
high
12
or
in
stop
knob
out
it
Fig.
OR
12
or
knob
out
machine
as
(E),
(E).
16
on
to
5.
16,
on
of
Loosen
If,
properly,
adjusted.
(C).
corner
is
latch
Run
nut
lines
pair
pair.
complete
line
which
lower
clamp
clamp
Turn
at
the
(C)
screw(G)
(L).
Whenusingshortneedles,
on
of
Take
With
of
length
edge
To
screw
must
after
the
To
pulley
of
gap
top.
down
the
timing
machine
revolutions
the
each
raise
screw(E)
of
adjustment,
this
position
do
this,
in
is
(H)
Raise
against
lightly
ADJUSTING
needle
lines;
outofstop
needle
of
the
or
(C),
of
needle
needle
lower
move
against
pair
rest
andmovelatch(C)
of
the
loosen
operating
lever
screw
in
needle
bar
the
against
NEEDLE
for
extra
operating
its
in
lines
is
used,
bar
the
under
down
bar;
for
bar
timing
the
stop
screws
direction
roller
against
(D)
(F),
use
long
long
position,
lowest
(A,
bushing.
bar,
to
desired
needle
machine
(J)
and
lever(D)
BAR
the
upper
needles,
needles,
direction.
position,
Fig.
should
loosen
bar
downas
screw
(E
until
and
lever
tighten
and
6),
be
height,
clamp.
faras
does
and
use
turnpulley
not
(G)
G)
outside
the
screw
(K),
screw
lock
and
pair
the
use
the
the
depending
even
needle
must
in
of
with
and
it
cycle
latch
front
move
(E).
with
timing
middle
lower
two
upper
the
bar
retightcn
willgo.
be
(F)
on
clamp
Retightenscrew
.0
—
/
r
screw
screws.
(E).
B
L
6
and
The
—
‘H
take-up
take-up
rr
T’
Fig.
(B)
slot
The
in
needle
the
needle
bar
bar
is
correctly
bushing
positioned
freely,
when
10
the needle
set
screw
(D)
enters
the
AI)I
IISTIN(1
NIII)IJ
HAH,
(lLiiuu(I)
rrta
-
rII1
Icom
iViakesnrc
so
set
at
any
Adj
and
(B)
NOTE:
plate,
This
neec[
Take
pulley
reaches
it
bushing
needles,
timing
LLS
has
not
position
iowei’
that
ponL
ustm
moving
TIM
feed
been
be
machine
two
is
lines,)
A
I
d(;
it
ilocs
of
cut
[NG
Vig,
plate,
done
removed
complete
its
midway
(When
ol.
edge
N1NG
that
its
is
feed
NEED
3
lowest
the
the
needle
to
i’iII)
the
not
tn:avel,
made
pLate
shows
and
clarity
for
to
out
of
revolutions
position,
between
machine
Line
Iced
mt,erlere
l.oos
by
Wirf.[I
Ii
the
button
make
stop
the
ha
hush
lliaeIniliu(l
PT
plate
with
cuing
desired
to
machine
clamp
only,
the
position,
in
then,
upper
is
iing
surl’aue
(A,
i
the
two
JQQ
with
removed,
These
adjustments,
and
operating
raise
pair
equipped
is
setto
1g.
7)
ineedte
sc
cc
position,
needle
parts
rotate
of
with
of
is
ws
direction,
until
it
timing
a
the
long
cylinder
the
lines
needles,
I.
Lower
lower
on
Line
the
au
hase
i.
edge
bar
use
tory,
the
is
7
needle
01
when
the
3
the
lower
Tine
1/32
using
distatien
bar
needle
innulics,
I
until
bar
short
pair
of
Loosen
Insert
forward,
and
needle,
To
sleeve
sliding
cam
coincides
sure
the
needle
direction
the
needle,
a
make
forward
on
in the
that
needle
screw
There
approximately
this
slightly
the
shaft
direction
cam
bar
the
Retighten
the
is
with
the
of
guard
driver
should
adjustment,
during
t1j
Fig.
timing
is
against
at
its
needle
clamp
behind
be
and
necessary
8
lowest
until
clamp
screw(A,
the
the
only
002
,
inch,
loosen
retighten
adjustment,
to
-—Z4
on
line
the
sleeve,
position,
there
screw
loop
slightest
set
one
secure
the
sleeve
is
a
(A)
Fig.
positioning
amount
screws
of
the
Now,
loosen
the
positioning
one
of
sleeve
Rotate
until
is
the
even
bushing,
point
on
of
the
in the
screw
is
the
its
point
clamp
and
(D),
Turn
and
slide
clearance
securely,
and
8)
(A,
screws
proper
the
back
lower
with
the
backside
sleeve.
(E)
9
smallest
and
screw.
rotate
(F),
pulley
the
the
slide
finger
of
clearance
Fig,
enough to
screws
clearance
finger
screws
so
the pulley
timing
the
lower
Rotate
hook
is
and
Loosen
and
slide
amount
the
Loosen
cam
Tighten
in
needle
of
about,002
needle
(C)
in
9)
(C)
and
in
that
the
at
needle,
screws
operating
guard
guard
and
between
the
sleeve
prevent
in
cam(D)
between
the
needle,
the
cam
it
contacts
in
operating
line
on
of
edge
sleeve
the
center
tightenboth
hook
hook
of
(G)
clearance
and
setscrew
so
that
(B,
inch between
pull
and
the
the
(B)
collar
so
ret
its
in
cam,
direction
Fig,
(B)
the
the
(B),
the
needle
needle
so
of
the
screws
that
ighten
(C)
timing
forward,
finger
finger
slide
sleeve
and
slide
the
Tighten
slide
the
cam.
direction
that
needle
clamp
there
between
hook
in
making
until
in
8)
it
loop
the
bar
bar
the
(A)
cam
line
the
arid
11
buLi
a(Ijus
\V
id
Lnicnt,
ith
or
CL\\IP
distance
be
lower
1/
2
inch
rod
between
(i’ig,
(D),
7),
the
bottom
make
To
of’
t.Iit
this
OV
plate
and
13LTTON
normal
the
should
raise
iiIICil’I’
position,
stop
m
p
loosen
ulilno
lu
Liii’
c
in
the
set
in
Lop
of
screw
the
teed
(C),
L
[tetu:i’n
pi.n
stop
the
neec[lc
clearance
re-cycle,
to
On
button
mately
the
of
desired
(E,
Styles
clamp,
1/2
clamp
height,
6
the
Vig.
will
between
Too
200—16.
the
inch
canbe
Fig,
ichine
m
7).
not
tacking
between
The
9
to
purpose
Its
strike
the
stop
much
200-17,
changed
clampholder
A
A
stop
button
the
pin
clearance
clamp
it
and
byloosening
C
position,
is
and
which
should
feeciplate
the
will
to
or
prevent
any
the
will
are
turn
clamp
At
between
(A,
roller
screw
affect
relation
described,
2
1/
and
and
other
button
cause
equipped
set
be
lock
have
Take
pulley
this
Pig,
(13),
inch,
roller
check
overthrow
so
with
nut
to
be
in
is
point,
(C)
the
to
part
clamp
the
that
machine
and
i.nachLne
in
operating
furthest
its
the
and
10)
Adjustment
and
moving
height
the
but
interference
no
will
the
the
of
holder
button
with
there
turning
removed
out
there
button
the
feed
for
occur,
position
of
button
tacking
a
is
in
to
of
the
the
will
to
a
stop
clamp
make
of
stop
direction
Ltion
pos
must
clamp
button
macic
is
(A)
rod
the
plate
normal
between
of
button
clamp,
cause
strike
clamp
distance
position,
be
up.
button
as
the
clamp
rod
this
position,
until
to
the
clearance
lifting
clamp
loosening
by
This
clamp
previously
setting
lifting
button
Insufficient
machine
the
the
instead
approxi
of
Position
or
in
adjustment.
button
rcai’,
lifting
will
clamp
that
so
needle,
of
out
mid
rod
in
oF
rod
a
to
The
drop the
to
FOR
FOUR
Accurately
holes
the
indicator
(A,
Fig.
distance
the
to
With
button
the
stop
the
that
so
(J)
jaws.
Take
needle
the
be
shifted
to
adjustment,
The
necessary
pin,
stop
feed
HOLE
of
the
Fig,
(G,
the
to
11)
between
machine
the
inthe
lever
(I-I,
the
machine
the
enters
slightly
graduations
to
deviate
corresponding
plate
holder
POSITIONING
BUTTONS
measure
button,
7)
and
graduations
the
in
jaws
button
of
Fig,
is
out
center
the
to
on
slightly
the
stop
the
7)
holes
held
of
the
off
distance
and
spring
position,
clamp,
means
by
stop
of
secure
indicator
the
from
to(E,
latch
AND
Fig.
when
ADJUSTING
between
the
set
indicator
corresponding
button,
the
in
insert
adjust
and
screw
of
loosely
by
position,
this
hole
condition,
each
scales
them,
pivot
the
and
in
7),
the
the
shouldbe
machine
BUTTON
turn
button,
are
slowly
Loosen
only
onlyas
set
reached
has
CLAMP
Fig,
hand
by
button
The
screws
approximate,
10
low
to
(K)
stop
make
clamp
and
as
to
necessary
position,
sure
may
make
may
it
that
have
the
be
12
POSITIONING
AND
LAM
A
HUTTON
C
P
(continued)
FOR
Set
clista!lce
two
clots
br
as
When
back
pivot
set
spring
proper
sponcling
button,
the
spring
lever
The
tension
in
relation
only
a
Take
direction,
Check the
as
close
made
the
illustration
is
used
discs
Loosen
TWO
pvoL
between
at
Four’
sewing
to
front
indicator
graduations
to
Push
is
not
regular
(B)
light
machine
as
loosening
by
only
inthe
screw
hOLE
Lndicator
leFt
hole
on
indicator
distance
in
indicator
illustrated.
and
to
the
tension
and
position
possible
on
same
(G)
BUTTONS
holes
end
buttons.
two
Styles
(A,
the
thread
controls
types
thread
(Fig.
Style 200-10,
manner
of
on
lever
(A,
is
out
screw
to
of
scale
hole
(G,
Fig.
scales,
between
Fig.
of
required.
of
of
to
12),
make
(G,
button,
buttons
200-6,
Fig.
located
tension
the
thread,
stop
machine
the
the
tension
(E)
another
in
this
I’ig.
.
(B)
200—7,
7)
to
11)
corre
holes
under
11).
tightness
position,
tension
and
and
which
adjustment.
to
7)
and
set
Continue
from
and
the
of
This
THREAD
Fig.
(A,
materials,
in
accordance
releasinglever
discs
moving
tension
is
lever(C)
peoper graduation
sprlng
I
12)
of
the
rotate
(D)
the
adjusted
with
TENSION
releasing
adjustment
•f
is
button.
and
thickness
pulley
without
lever
is
adjusted
indicator
located
with
in
Fig.
behind
The
complete
two
threading
Fig,
(C,
contacting
in
(C)
lever
relation
for
on
(A,
of
tension
of
buttons
the
(F)
to
the
scale
Iig,
button
11
12)
required
corresponding
on
11)
(-
the
automatic
required
used.
turns
diagram
to
see
them. Adjustment
is
shown.
the
automatic
regular
circle
clamp
—
in
that
direction,
This
tension
the
same
I.
thread
will
vary
Normally,
operating
(Fig.
it
comes
lever
tension
discs.
to
with
13).
is
In
1
1I
using
rise
until
dimension
To
has
risen
in
needle
until
the
short
make
B
I
needles.
dimension
should
this
to
the
lever
tension
N
Fi
g.
be
2
adjustment,
heights
and
hub
releases,
M
‘
2
12
When
XI
1/8
described
is
+
turn
mE
R
using
1
15/16
1/32
turn
needle
K
in1i,
pulley
above.
long
+
I
1/32
lever
tightness
of
automatic
the
upstroke,
lower
+
upper
dimension
needles,
inch.
operating
in
Loosen
shaft
13
AUTOMATIC THREAD
The
the
With
thread
1/32
automatic
fabric.
the
edge
inch
needle
the
For
the
(H,
the
of
thread
when
has
of
above
‘X’
T
needle
extra
direction
two
Fig.
stitch
tension
tension
the
risen
its
bevelled
bar
bushing
(Fig.
bar
hexagonal
12)
tension controls
to
the
long
until
with
on
nut
needle
a
top
14)
must
head
TENSION
the
(A,
should
point
top
edge
as
on
be
needles,
the
a
screw
under side
Fig.
release
bar,
where
is
shown
machines
allowed
needle
screws
on
1
9/16
of
driver
the
14)
its
the
the
at
to
this
bar
(B)
O1L
GEARS
REMOVE
WORKING
ALL
COVER
AND
PARTS
OIL
THREADING
DIAGRAM
LEWIS
CLASS
AND
FOR
200
OILING
OIL
NEEDLE
BAR
HERE
Fig.
13
14
I
head
be
ru—checked,
11,
node
tension
101(1
screws
iiiter
ide
rs
nut
thu
iuud1.e
(K,
re—checking,
of.
(A,
tie
I
‘ig.
A
1i’I)\’IATlC
luvu
‘ig,
fabric,
11).
V
1.1).
shaft
it
the
This
is
situation
‘[‘H
in
is
[ound
this
READ
position
an
that
TES1O
extremely
excessively
can
be
while
important
helped
(continued)
retighitening
adjustment,
large
by
loops
applying
the
still
moore
two
hexagotia
and
exist
tension
sh1ohI)(I
on
the
at
The
holds
clamp
break
200—10,
holds
The
is
3/
block
required
The
pulled
for
the
With
the
at
off
the
so
thread
64
mcli
(K)
through
first
thread
thread
the
the
the
thread
that
when
direction
thread
the
Tl[ItEAD
nipper
so
conclusion
thread
thread
at
the
knife
nipper
clearance
the
pull-off
the
tensions,
stitch
machine
that
nipper
the
nipper
to
of
N1PPE
(J,
the
of
at
can
should
between
make
lever
the
out
It
[ig.
raising
the
sewing
the
button,
also
middle
cut
be
is
open,
the
THREAD
(M,
at
the
following
of
stop
pinches
12)
of
pinches
of
the
the
cross—over
set
so
that
and
it
the
Loosen
adjustment.
Fig,
end
cycle,
position,
pull-off
pulled
and
the
button
On
will
Style
cycle
and
sewing
there
nipper
PULL-OFF
controls
12)
of
stitching
a
there
lever
taut
against
screw
(M)
-
(L)
LEVER
the
cycle,
should
and
the
the
and
amount
be
thread
1
move
to
provide
no
thread,
—
Fig.
the
contact
guides
14
of
thread
sufficient
when
nipper
(N),
between
thread
the
B
(J)
which
thread
in
1
the
is
the
is
,—
has
to
a
upper
Place
Take
entered
point
needle
Fig.
machine
machine
feed
where
bar
15
out
plate
the
bushing
in
of
seven
lower
stop
stop
edge
(see
and
on
rear
the
a
move
tional
middle
over
(A,
position
position
times,
of
dimension
two
its
This
moving
If,
the
of
right
If
too
hole
the
On
Style
adjustment
stitch.
Fig.
for
and
Continue
bevelled
adjustment
when
right
a
four
as
much
button,
pull-off
the
of
15)
starting
turn
“X”,
15
block
sewing,
side
hole
described
thread
or
200-10,
cycle
Loosen
in
cam
pulley
turning
top
Fig.
(R)
of
button,
the
lever
which
during
point
in
is
is
made
forward
too
two
a
above.
tail
left
to
the
three
(B).
operating
pulley
1
7/
14).
much
move
is
rear
the
pull-off
causes
the
of
until
inches
8
loosening
by
or
back.
thread
hole
button,
the
visible
of
left,
lever
it
cutting
socket
subsequent
direction
needle
from
pull-off
on
the
a
four
to
function
screw
is
tail
or
the
left
hole
has
of
the
head
adjustment.
until
has
bar
top
the
visible
lever
side
button,
an
cross
screws
needle
right
addi
in
risen
of
(P)
to
of
the
the
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