Thank you for purchasing this Trend Perfect Butt™.
The following symbols are used throughout these instructions:
Denotes risk of personal injury, loss of life or damage to the
tool in case of non-observance of the instructions.
INTENDED USE
This accessory is intended to be used to scribe in work surfaces
flooring or shelves to match uneven walls. It includes four wheel
sizes to allow for different situations. The end cap can also be
used to mark the worktop offset when using Trend worktop jigs.
SAFETY
Please read and understand the safety points at the end of this
instruction as well as the powertool instructions before use.
INTRODUCTION
The Perfect Butt™ was designed to overcome a problem
frequently encountered by tradesmen and enthusiasts alike when
scribing in work surfaces, flooring or shelves to match uneven
walls. Instead of using a scrap of wood with a pencil jammed into
a hastily drilled hole, this innovative tool takes the guess work out
of what used to be a hit and miss chore. The pencil simply
remains in the centre of any of the four tracing wheels allowing an
accurate profile to be easily drawn every time.
Tip: Before committing yourself to cutting an expensive worktop or
some other material, practice profile marking and cutting on scrap
material such as cardboard, plywood or MDF offcuts. This will
ensure that you develop the correct technique and build
confidence.
ITEMS ENCLOSED & DESCRIPTION OF PARTS
A. Ø29mm tracing wheel x1
B. Ø50mm tracing wheel x1
C. Ø70mm tracing wheel x1
D. Ø90mm tracing wheel x1
E. Shaft x1
F. Pencil spring x1
Note: If you need to reduce the pressure of the pencil, the
retaining cap may be partially unscrewed, or alternatively
the pressure may be reduced by shortening the length of
the pencil.
G. Pencil x1
H. Hub x1
I. Circlips x2
J. ‘O’ ring x1
K. Retaining cap/
worktop jig offset guide x1
K
OPERATION
Basic Scribing Procedure
Single Plane Profile
This example is for fitting a kitchen worktop flush up to any wall
with an irregular profile. The principles behind this process
apply to any single plane profile such as fitting a shelf or when
fixing two workpieces together.
Initial Alignment
Rest the worktop on the cabinet carcasses and position it up
against the wall ensuring that the front edge is parallel to the
front of the kitchen cabinets. Locate and measure the largest
gap between the wall and the worktop rear edge. Select the
Perfect Butt™ wheel whose radius is just greater than the width
of the gap (i.e. when the edge of the wheel is pressed against
the wall, the pencil point will still mark the work surface).
Note: Smaller wheels give greater detail when profiling
complex surfaces.
Top view
Wall
Kitchen worktop
Contact point
Scribing the Butt Profile
Ensure the worktop is secure and does not move. Fit the
chosen wheel to the pencil shaft assembly. Starting at
whichever end of the worktop you prefer, press the Perfect
Butt™ wheel flat onto the worktop with the edge of the wheel
touching the wall. This will ensure an accurate transfer of the
wall profile to the worktop. Hold the knurled shaft near the
base and run the wheel along the wall for the entire length of
the worktop. The internal spring in the handle will keep the
pencil in gentle contact with the surface while the wheel is
traversed.
Note: Your pencil line may not show on some laminated
surfaces. We suggest you apply a strip of masking tape
where the pencil will run. This will also help avoid
chipping the surface when the worktop is cut.
Biggest gap
Parallel
Kitchen
cabinet front
edge
F
E
G
I
G
J
H
B
C
D
-1-
Examine the scribed line. If this indicates that too much
material will be cut off, then reposition the workpiece away from
the wall by an appropriate distance and re-scribe as required.
Top view
Wall
Kitchen worktop
Perfect Butt™
Profile line
Parallel
Kitchen
cabinet front
edge
Cutting the Worktop
The wall profile has now been transferred to the worktop.
When cutting the worktop, always cut to the waste material side
of the scribed line. This will ensure you do not cut into the
good side of the worktop and there will be minimum material to
remove for final hand-fitting. If you have previously practiced
this technique on scrap material and you have cut accurately to
the scribed line, the final fit should be acceptable first time.
Top view
Wall
Kitchen worktop
Profile join
Parallel
Kitchen
cabinet front
edge
Profiling and Fitting on Two Planes
Fitting a Kitchen Worktop into a Corner with Two
Irregular Walls
If both the walls are distorted or untrue then a template will be
required to copy both wall profiles simultaneously onto the
worktop.
Process Overview
■ Place the worktop on the kitchen cabinets as near to its final
desired position as possible with the front edge correctly
aligned.
■ Rough cut a template (cardboard etc.) to cover the area
where you wish to fit the worktop.
■ Align the template and scribe both wall profiles onto the
template using the Perfect Butt™
■ Cut out the template along the scribed lines. When the
Perfect Butt™ is then run along the outer-edge of this
template, the wall profiles will be reproduced onto the
worktop with a scribing line. The worktop may then be cut
and the edge finished to carefully match the scribe line
indicated by the Perfect Butt™. The worktop will now fit
both irregular and wall profiles and can be fixed in position.
Selecting Template Material
Many materials can be used as a template as long as they are
greater than 2mm in thickness with an edge that will not
compress when it is used to trace against with the Perfect
Butt™ wheel. Suitable materials include thick card, packing
cardboard, MDF, plywood, hardboard and polyfoam.
Step-By-Step Guide
Worktop Alignment with a Known Datum
Rest the worktop on the kitchen cabinets and position it into the
corner where it is to be fitted. Ensure that the worktop is
parallel to the front edge of the kitchen cabinets - a known
datum - and that both the back and side edges touch their
respective walls.
Top view
Wall
Parallel
Kitchen worktop
Kitchen cabinet front edge (known datum)
Rough Cut the Template
The template will need to be as wide and deep as the worktop
you wish to fit. It may need to be even wider and deeper to
cover gaps, depending on the degree of irregularity in both wall
profiles. You may join multiple pieces of suitable material
together to create larger templates where necessary, but when
doing this ensure that the final template assembly is sufficiently
rigid or has assembly marks so that the pieces can be
accurately re-aligned if disturbed. The idea is to end up with a
rough-cut template that follows the existing wall profile to within
a 25mm (1”). This gap can be spanned by the smallest wheel.
Marking the Datum on the Template
Once you have your rough-cut template you must ensure that it
can record the profile accurately. Mark each side of the
template where it intersects with the front edge of the worktop.
As you have already aligned the worktop parallel to the kitchen
cabinets, these two edge marks now provide the template with
a fixed reference line to the datum, a known straight edge.
Mark a line between these edge marks and cut the template
along this line to give the template its datum line.
Top view
Wall
25mm
Worktop front
edge marker
Template
Worktop front edge
(template should be cut here for datum)
Scribing the Wall Profile onto the Template
With the template rough-cut to within 25mm (1”) from the walls
you wish to profile, and correctly aligned with the datum
(template and worktop aligned) you are ready to scribe a profile
onto the template. You
may wish to tape or clamp
the template in place so
that its alignment with the
datum is fixed.
Top view
Perfect Butt™
Kitchen worktop
Any movement of the
template at this stage
will lead to inaccuracy.
-2-
Contact points
25mm
Template
25mm
Wall
The Perfect Butt™ should be held so that the wheel underside
C
B
A
lies flat against the template surface with the wheel edge
against the wall. Run the wheel along the entire length of both
walls, including the corner angle, so that the wall profiles are
transferred onto the template.
Top view
Wall
Perfect Butt™
Template
Template and worktop aligned
Cutting the Template
Remove the template from the worktop and carefully cut it
along the scribed profile line. Always cut on the waste side
(wall side) of the line, and finish up to the line by hand.
Note: Time spent now on template accuracy will be
reflected in the fit of the finished worktop and the wall
profile.
Positioning the Finished Template on the Worktop
Once the template has been cut, it must be positioned on the
worktop leaving enough room for the Perfect Butt™ to traverse
round the outside without the pencil going outside the worktop
surface. To retain the desired alignment with the cabinet
carcasses, the template datum edge must remain parallel to
the front edge of the worktop. The closest points of the
template to the edges of the workpiece should be slightly
greater than the radius of the chosen scribing wheel.
Scribing from the Template to the Worktop
Once the template is correctly aligned and positioned, it should
be fixed using tape or clamps. Place the Perfect Butt™ so that
the wheel edge butts against the template edge and the wheel
is lying flat against the worktop. Then scribe around the entire
edge of the template. This will transfer a line that matches the
original wall profiles onto the worktop.
Examine the scribed line. If this indicates that too much
material will be cut off, then erase the first lines, reposition the
template by an appropriate distance as required and scribe
again around both template edges.
Cutting, Finishing and Fitting the Profiled Worktop
The worktop will now be marked with a scribed profile line and
can be cut to size. Cut on the waste material side of the scribed
line. Check the worktop against its final fixing position. You
may need to finish the worktop edges using hand tools to
ensure that the edge perfectly matches the profile line.
Once you are happy that the worktop edge matches the profile
line it should now lie flush to both walls while remaining parallel
to the cabinet carcass. You can now secure the worktop in
place.
Top view
Wall
Parallel
Kitchen worktop
Kitchen cabinet front edge
Profiling on Multiple Planes
Laying Tiles in Awkward Areas
In this example we will show how to fit floor tiles into a corner
recess in which there is a pedestal obstruction such as for a
wash-hand basin or W.C. While this procedure may, at first,
appear somewhat complex, a quick practice using scrap
materials will soon bring familiarity with the technique.
Making the Template
Select a suitable template material. Rough cut this template to
within 25mm (1”) of the work area boundary. Ensure that the
front edge of the template nearest the existing tile line is cut
straight to match that edge, as this datum will be used as an
alignment reference later. You will also need to mark on the
template the position of the outermost tiles to ensure accurate
alignment after the template is cut to size. Align these marks
with the inside edge of the exterior tiles, as this will give you a
precise reference line.
The template may need to be made in several
pieces to allow you to fit it into the desired area.
Simply tape the various pieces together when you
are happy with the template shape.
External template corners will trace with an arc
requiring you to finish the true corner by projecting
lines A and B until they intersect at point C.
Note: Ensure the pencil is sharp and that
the tracing wheel is flat on the surface.
Note: If the wheel skids rather than
rotates it will still provide an accurate
line.
Top view
Worktop
Template (fixed in position)
Parallel front edges
Perfect Butt™
scribing profiler
The usually unsuitable double corrugated cardboard
may be used as template material when using
spaced tiles as small discrepancies can be taken up
with normal tile spacing and grouting.
Top view
Rough cut template
within 25mm of
walls
Template tile
alignment markers
Template datum
edge
WashBasin
WashBasin
Template join
Tiles already laid
without interruption
-3-
Wall
Scribing the Template
Secure the template so that it does not move. The easiest
method is to tape the front edge to the existing tile line. Take
the Perfect Butt™ and scribe the profile of all edges within the
work area on to the template, ensuring the wheel is lying flat on
the surface and is fully butted against the objects being
recorded (walls, pedestal).
Top view
Profile
line
WashBasin
Perfect
Butt™
Cutting the Template
Once you have scribed the template, remove it from the work
area and carefully cut it along the scribed lines. (Do not cut
away the datum side).
When using a dense template material such as thin
MDF, always cut on the waste material side of the
profile line and finish by hand where necessary.
With cardboard, cut as accurately to the line as
possible.
Copying the Working Area
In a clear area, layout the appropriate number of tiles required
to cover the work area. This can be done by measuring the
greatest length and width of the actual work area and then
creating a matrix or grid of tiles that completely covers this area.
The tile matrix should be on its front edge against a batten or
appropriate straight edge that represents the datum of the
existing laid tiles.
You may wish to temporarily glue or tape the
exterior tiles in your matrix in place, especially
smaller and lighter types wick may move when you
scribe across them from the template later on.
When working with ceramic or stone tiles,
remember that spacers representing grout width
must also be added between tiles when laying them
out, and that this is also includes spacers between
the batten (representing the existing laid title line
datum) and the first row of tiles in the work area.
Top view
Tile matrix
size is
always
greater
than the
work area
Working area width
Working
area length
Top view
Template
tile
alignment
markers
Template
Tile
datum
edge
Re-Scribing the Profile on the Tiles
Use the Perfect Butt™ with the same sized wheel used to create
the template and scribe all appropriate edges of the template so
that the profile line of the work area is transferred to the tile
matrix you have laid out. You may wish to number the tiles
before cutting them as an aid to re-positioning them once cut
back in the work area.
External template corners will re-scribe with a
rounded edge as shown. You will need to complete
these corners with a straight edge or by eye where
necessary.
Note: You may find it easier to mark glazed tiles
using a Chinagraph (wax) pencil in the Perfect•Butt™.
Alternatively, apply masking tape to the tiles in the
areas which will be traversed by the
Perfect•Butt™ pencil.
Top view
Profile
line
Datum
edge
Cut out your tiles for the work area. With composition tiles which
are laid without gaps, cut and finish the tiles to the waste side of
the profile line, then trim as required for final accuracy. For
ceramic tiles which will be spaced and grouted, allow sufficient
space for the grout at the wall and pedestal boundaries by
cutting slightly inside the marked profile. To avoid unsightly
errors, this grouting allowance should be established first on
those tiles which will end up in a hidden area. If errors are made
and tiles are spoiled, place a fresh uncut tile on the matrix in the
appropriate position and re-scribe from the template as
described above. You should now have a set of tiles ready to be
laid into the work area.
Top view
Wall
Positioning the Template
Align the template so that the front edge rests butted against
the tile datum edge and the template tile width indicators are
aligned at the interior edge of both exterior tiles. Once correctly
aligned, secure the template in place by taping its datum edge.
-4-
WORKTOP OFFSET
The retaining cap has been designed to allow the Perfect
Butt™ to scribe the position of the routed cut on worktop
when using Trend Worktop jigs with a 30mm guide bush and
12.7mm (1/2”) cutter. The offset created is 8.65mm. This is
especially useful if there is a joint at either end of a worktop
as it will make it easier to mark out for the cut.
To Set Up Perfect Butt™ for Worktop Scribing
Undo retaining cap and remove spring and pencil. Place
spring into shaft and turn pencil upside down and place into
shaft with point uppermost. Refit retaining cap.
Using Perfect Butt™ for Worktop Scribing
The Perfect Butt™ for Worktop Scribing can be used to trace
the male cut on the worktop. The drawn line will need to be
on the side that the jig is to be positioned for routing.
Therefore, depending on whether a right hand or left hand
joint is being cut the pencil line will need to be on either the
underside or the top surface of the male worktop
respectively.
Cut female joint as normal, then lay male piece on top for
right hand joint or underneath for left hand joint.
Use the Perfect Butt™ to trace the female cut, the pencil line
on the centre worktop will show the final cut line. A left hand
joint is easier to mark out.
If the worktop is dark, place masking tape on the worktop
and draw onto this.
Lay jig onto worktop and align the correct edge of the slot on
the jig to the pencil line. Follow jig instructions for cutting the
joint.
SPARE PARTS
Item Qty. Desc.Ref. (1 off)
A 1 Ex-small wheel 29mm dia.WP-M/PB11
B 1 Small wheel 50mm dia.WP-M/PB01
C 1 Medium wheel 70mm dia.WP-M/PB02
D 1 Large wheel 90mm dia.WP-M/PB03
E 1 ShaftWP-M/PB04
F 1 SpringWP-M/PB05
G 1 PencilWP-M/PB06
H 1 HubWP-M/PB07
I1 Circlip (pair)WP-M/PB08
J 1 O RingWP-M/PB09
K 1 Retaining capWP-M/PB10
MAINTENANCE AND CARE
The accessory has been designed to operate over a long
period of time with minimum of maintenance. Continual
satisfactory operation depends upon proper tool care and
regular cleaning.
Cleaning
■ Keep the threads and springs clean of sawdust and resin
build up.
Lubrication
■ Your accessory requires no additional lubrication.
Pencil
■ Keep pencil sharp.
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
Recycle raw materials instead of disposing as
waste.
Packaging should be sorted for environmental-friendly
recycling.
The product and its accessories at the end of its life should
be sorted for environmental-friendly recycling.
GUARANTEE
All Trend products are guaranteed against any defects in
either workmanship or material, except products that have
been damaged due to improper user or maintenance.
Safety Points
1. Always wear eye protection such as goggles, ear protection
and use effective respiratory protection.
2. Before making adjustments to the power tool, like changing the
cutter, make sure the power is isolated correctly.
3. Before re-connecting to the mains supply, make sure the power
switch on the power tool is in the ‘off’ position.
4. Do not switch on the power tool with the cutter in contact with
the workpiece.
5. Before making adjustments always allow the cutter to stop
rotating.
6. When cutting keep your hands, hair and clothing clear of the
cutter.
7. Make sure you follow the instructions which came with your
power tool.
8. Ensure all visors, guards and dust extraction are fitted.
9. Trial cuts should be made in waste material before starting any
project.
10. Please see Trends website www.trendmachinery.co.uk for