Note: Remember that you have less of a chance of splitting the stock if you drill pilot holes before inserting screws.
9.Set the hammer in the half-cock position. The barrel bolster should be positioned concentrically into its cut-out in the lock plate and the lock plate should be snug against the barrel.
10.Insert the tang screw through the hole in the corresponding tang and pass it through the stock and into its corresponding hole in the trigger assembly.
11.At this point the hammer should be positioned so that it will fall squarely onto the nipple. If it does not, one or more of the fol lowing steps may be taken.
•Remove wood from bottom of lock recess, until lock is flush with the barrel.
•Remove wood as needed from under and behind the barrel channel, including tang area.
•Check that the lock plate and lock plate screws are snugly fitted into the stock and the lock is properly positioned in its cut-out.
•If proper alignment is not obtained with the previous steps, the hammer may be bent slightly by removing it from the lock, heating it and bending it carefully to obtain the
correct alignment.
12.Attach the rear sight to the barrel by inserting into the dovetail at the rear of the barrel and gently tapping in from the right side.
13.Install the front sight into the dovetail cut out on the top front of the barrel by tapping gently from the right side.
Brass to Wood Assembly:
Keep in mind that when attaching brass to wood you can file either the wood or the brass. Always be careful to file away sparingly and check for proper fit often.
14.Trigger Guard
•Press the rear of the trigger guard into the stock. Then press the front into inlets. The front of the guard should fit snugly and some pressure is required to obtain this fit.
•If necessary remove metal from the ends of the trigger guard using a belt sander or file to allow the trigger guard to fit into the inletting. Remember to remove metal sparingly and check the fit often to assure that you have not taken too much material off. Install using the trigger guard screws.
15.Nose Cap
•With the barrel attached to the stock, place the nose cap on the stock. If the cap does not fit properly remove wood sparingly and in small quantities until the nose cap fits snugly.
•Insert and tighten two screws.
16.Butt Plate
•Center butt plate on stock. Contours of the plate and stock should match as closely as possible.
•Carefully attach two wood screws to hold in place.
•File away excess brass before sanding stock.
Note: As with the barrel tenon final fitting of sights should be done only after bluing or browning the barrel.
Now that the gun is completely together and dry fit you need to check for functionality. Be sure to visually inspect the entire gun and components. Some common problems that can result are listed below
with solution.
•Hammer won’t cock back completely:
Fix: Remove lock from stock. Visually inspect inletting for “dark”, “oily”, or “rub” marks. They will most likely be along the bottom of the inletting for the lock opening. If
these are spotted use a small chisel, file or Dremel® tool to remove excess wood. Make sure to take out small amounts and check fit and function of the lock. Continue to remove wood until lock operates properly.
•Lock Plate sits out too far:
Fix: If the lock sticks out too far shave small amounts away from inletting. Continue until locks sits properly in inletting.
•Lock Plate sits in too far:
Fix: If the lock sits in too far use wood or plastic shims to set proper spacing. Make sure these shims don’t interfere with any moving parts on the lock plate. Wood putty is not recommended to use as a shim because it can shift
or compress.
Once everything fits properly and functions as it is supposed to, disassemble the rifle and place parts back into Rubbermaid® bin or similar container.
Final Fitting:
Now that all of our parts have been dry fitted we need to prepare the stock and barrel for their final finishes. Remember that this is where diligence pays off. Proceed slowly and be critical of your work and you will be rewarded with a fine looking firearm.
Stock
•Using progressively finer wood rasp and sandpaper, bring wood and metal surfaces flush with each other. File together to achieve a smooth transition between the surfaces. Proceed carefully, deliberately, and slowly.
•Once all surfaces are flush use an orbital sander and hand sanding block to continue to smooth imperfections on the stock.
•To achieve a good finish sand using 150 grit sandpaper.
•To achieve a better finish continue sanding with 180 grit sandpaper
•To achieve the best finish use a 220 grit sandpaper or higher.
•Remove or tape over metal parts before staining of finishing stock.
•Once all sanding is complete stain with your choice of stain and color. Follow directions on the can for best results.
•Once that stain dries completely apply an even coat of polyurethane for added protection.
•At this time you can you can install the sling swivel to the under side of the buttstock. Select a drill bit slightly smaller than
the screw portion of the sling swivel.
•Install sling swivels.
Barrel
•Polish bare steel parts with varying grits of emery cloth, each one finer than the previous. Finish with a fine steel wool.
•Brown or blue steel parts with chemicals available in most gun shops. We recommend the bluing kit available from Birchwood Casey.
Brass
•Polish Brass and bare steel parts with different grits of emery cloth, each one finer that the previous. Finish with a fine grade steel wool.
Once all bluing and staining is complete reassemble the rifle using the same steps you did during the dry fitting process. Make sure all parts fit properly and screws are properly tightened down. Be sure to read your owners manual before firing your rifle for the first time. This manual is designed to teach you proper techniques, loads and safety practices.
Traditions Performance Firearms (T.S.G.I.)
1375 Boston Post Road
P.O. Box 776 • Old Saybrook, CT 06475-0776
www.traditionsfirearms.com
e-mail: info@traditionsfirearms.com
Tel: 860-388-4656 • Fax: 860-388-4657
FIT38
Crockett KR2 3-09
RifleKitInstructions
CrockettRifle
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing your new Traditions muzzleloading kit. When you are finished you will have a fully functional and operable muzzleloader that you can take to the range or in the field.
For this reason it must be handled with the same precautions and respect due any firearm. Before loading or shooting this gun, read and understand and always be willing to follow the instructions, loads, and precautions as outlined in the enclosed Warranty and Shooting Instructions Booklet. If this booklet is not with your kit, contact Traditions for a free
replacement copy.
Please be sure to read the below instructions completely before assembling your Traditions rifle kit. Please note that once the package has been opened and altered in anyway (I.E. sanding, staining, bluing, filing, etc…) you will need to contact Traditions directly and not your dealer to resolve any issues that may arise.
The following instructions will enable a moderately handy person to build a safe, serviceable, and shootable muzzleloader. This kit is to be considered moderately hard (Intermediate Skill Level) and you should expect to do some filing of both metal and wood to make it fit properly. Greater skills and patience will be rewarded with a truly fine rifle reminiscent of the muzzleloading era.
Skill Levels:
Intermediate:
Stock: 95% inletted. Will require some minor stock shaping & final fitting of metal to stock, final sanding & finish. Will require holes to be drilled. Metal: Will require polishing & browning or bluing.
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