- Reports on SCORE trips in the UK. Italy, Germany
Australia and New Zealand - Larini Exhausts
advertorial feature (definitely) and much more!
Opinions, advice, tips and comments expressed in this magazine are those of
individuals only and are not necessarily those of, agreed or endorsed by SCORE.
Whilst every care is taken in the content of this magazine, no responsibility will be
accepted by SCORE for any loss or personal injury deemed to be associated.
The Suzuki Cappuccino Owners Register for Enthusiasts (SCORE) is a private
non-profit organisation, run by its members for its members.
If you have any doubt about any particular aspect of this magazine, please contact
the Magazine Editor or. if necessary, seek professional advice.
SCORE is recognised officially by Suzuki GB PLC and Suzuki Motor Corporation.
arley
Thunderbir
ont cover photograph courtesy of Graham F
r
F
ds is a trademark of Carlton International Media Limited. All rights reserved.
Rear cover photograph courtesy of Graeme Hansen, New Zealand
(Maraetia Beach with Waitamata Harbour in the background)
1
From the Editor
5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1. Cappuccinos are go!
With the kind help of a few SCORE members, we thought we should have a
Thunderbirds theme to this issue, coinciding with the release of the Big Real Person
Movie adaptation of the cult/ popular TV series from the 1960s.
Inside this magazine there’s a one-to-one chat with John Tracy from Thunderbird 1,
a feature on a special FAB Cappo (no, not a pink model although we’re not so sure
about the door mirrors!) and a prize quiz from the inimitable scientist Brains who
decided to base all his questions from the world of football, what with Euro 2004
now finally over.
There’s lots of other interesting features inside to help you get the best out of your
car. After all, we’re only as good as what you put into the club and ultimately we all
benefit from each others’ experiences so keep those articles rolling in!
On a completely different tact, we have a new brand name for our club merchandise:
the SCORE store. With our wide variety of products, you can order directly from the
magazine or from an all-new area on our website which will, in the course of time,
include on-line purchasing.
Your SCORE Flight Deck
SCORE Communications, Membership and Treasury
Alex Clouter
17 Hurston Close, Findon Valley, West Sussex, BN14 0AX, England
+44 (0) 1903 267 770 - membership@score.org.uk
SCORE Merchandise and Technical
Brendan Molony
19 Hillside Drive, Cowbridge, Vale of Glamorgan, CF771 7EA, Wales
g.uk
+44 (0) 1446 771 208 - mer
chandise@scor
e.or
2
Your SCORE Crew
Region 1
AMANDA BRANTON - 01209 219 469
Covering: Bristol, Channel Isles, Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire
Region 2
KATY DOBSON - 01825 762 048
Covering: Kent, East and West Sussex
Region 3
VACANCY - please contact Alex if you are interested
Covering: Greater London and Middlesex
Region 4
ADRIAN FURNISS - 01252 664 399
Covering Berkshire, Hampshire, Isle of Wight and Surrey
Region 5
FIONA WATTS - 01992 718 661
Covering: Bedfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Cambridgeshire and Hertfordshire
Region 6
GRAHAM FARLEY - 07866 721 657
Covering: Essex, Norfolk and Suffolk
Region 7
VACANCY - please contact Alex if you are interested
Covering: Northamptonshire, Oxfordshire, Staffordshire, Warwickshire and West
Midlands
Region 8
STEVE LEWIS - 01792 523 142
Covering: Gloucestershire, Hereford & Worcestershire, Shropshire and Wales
Region 9
PAUL HOPE - 0116 269 8365
Covering: Leicestershire, Lincolnshire, Nottinghamshire and Rutland
3
Region 10
KEVIN HYDE - 01946 67420
Covering: Cheshire, Cumbria, Greater Manchester, Isle of Man and Lancashire
Region 11
MARTIN JONES - 0113 282 1693
Covering: Derbyshire, Durham, Northumberland, Tyne & Wear and Yorkshire
Region 12
GREG STEWART - 07736 675 162
Covering: Scotland
Region 13
DANNY SKEHAN - +35 31 833 7113
Covering: Ireland and Northern Ireland
Region 14
MARCEL SPOELSTRA - +31 204 82 26 01
Covering: Belgium, Netherlands and Luxembourg
Region 15
RONALD SCHNEIDER - +49 221 934 8509
Covering: Germany
Region 16
SONJA LUTHI - + 61 298 79 7069
Covering: Australia
Region 17
GRAEME HANSEN - +64 95 34 2791
Covering: New Zealand
A special welcome to Amanda Branton into the SCORE regional team, supporting
club members in SW England. The county of Hampshire has now been absorbed in
Adrian’s Mid-Southern Region.
And it’s goodbye to Dany Gagnon (London/ Middlesex Region) and Paul Joynes
(Central England Region). Dany has moved lock, stock and barrel to France - still with
his black CappuccinoSPORT and very much in the driving seat of his new Cappuccino
estoration business - full details inside this magazine issue. P
r
to sell his car - needs must as they say - with increasing work/ family commitments.
Needless to say, both remain enthusiastic members, Paul in an Associate capacity. A
big thanks to the pair of them, for the time and effort put into the club over the years
when they were Reps - always warmly appreciated.
aul very reluctantly had
4
Reaching new heights
Shooting up to 375 SCORE members by the end of May 2004, so far this year we’ve
seen 73 Cappuccino owners enquiring to join the club and of these 63% decided to
sign up! Here’s all 46 of them, joining the ever growing global SCORE family:
Mark Webb (Glenmore Park, Australia)Kay Davies (Oxfordshire)
John Smith (Staffordshire)Perry Mitchell (Surrey)
Dorothy Wright (Midlands)Ben Clark (Hampshire)
Stephen Ball (Cheshire)Ellen Balmer (Somerset)
Karen Ellery (Cornwall)Perry Mitchell (Surrey)
Emma Wale (Berkshire)David Reynolds (Corrimal, Australia)
George Atsis (Melbourne, Australia)Cameron Taylor (Hampshire)
Rebecca Wright (Merseyside)Victor Olive (West Sussex)
William Dickinson (Lancashire)Rico Gusman (Suffolk)
Paul Eagar (Essex)Mary Powell (Ceredigion, Wales)
Ben Fletcher (Hertfordshire)Katherine Snell (Shropshire)
Kevin Laidlaw (Bedfordshire)Doreen Atkinson (Middlesex)
Sarah Mclean (Cumbria)Judith Morgan (Dorset)
Paul Land (West Yorkshire)Rodney Rasmussen (Shropshire)
Brian Hilton (Bedfordshire)David Scanlan (Hampshire)
Dan Batchelor (Berkshire)Billy Thompson (OC, California, USA)
David Gresswell (Gloucestershire)John Huntley (Worcestershire)
Joan Walsh (Essex)Wolfgang Hehs (Wipperfirth, Germany)
Lorna Thomas (Surrey)Chrissie Gansbuehler (Northamptonshire)
Hazel Staley (Derbyshire)Adele Kaighin (Isle of Man)
Timothy Pattemore (Cornwall)Allan Brown (West Sussex)
Kelly Baker (Oxfordshire)James Graham (Isle of Man)
Mark Ayling (Dorset)Avril McPherson (Buckinghamshire)
A very very special welcome to the first ever Cappuccino in America: Billy Thompson
who lives in Fullerton, Orange County in California. He pulled out all the stops to add
the Cappuccino to his car collection:
every respect than the Honda Beat that I also have. Thanks to the wealth of advice, tips
and other information on the website and the great help from both Alex and Brendan, I
don’t feel alone anymore on this massive continent.”
It’s also hello to three new guys joining the OZ Chapter and one new addition (hi
olfgang!) to our German SCORE family, making this Euro country the biggest in club
W
membership outside of England. Across another sea (an Irish one) and greetings to
our growing membership on the Isle of Man!
“I love the Capp to bits and it’s so much better in
5
SCORE Member Gallery
Brian HiltonDoreen Atkinson
Kay DaviesMary and Paul Eagar
Cameron TaylorDave Reynold’s Cappo in Australia
Lorna ThomasStephen Ball
6
Chrissie GansbuehlerJames Graham
Mark AylingSarah Mclean’s Cappo
William Dickinson’s Cappo Ron Dunn
Regional Rep Paul Hope
7
SCOREstore Summertime Sale
Cool 6 Coaster Set Unbelievable Umbrella
choice of green, burgundy or mixed red golf umbrella that actually fits in the boot
only £2only £10
The Latest SCORE Magazine Back Issues
Your chance to purchase the back issues you have missed, from #1 to #15!
Please quote the issue number in your order to SCORE Merchandise.
only £1.50 per back issue
Prices include packing/ posting for UK members only.
For details of postage charges for Overseas members please email
merchandise@score.org.uk
PLEASE USE THE ORDER FORM ON PAGE 88 OR VIA THE WEBSITE
8
OUTDOOR
Polyester woven textile with
anti-UV treatment, lightweight,
smooth, high water resistance,
breathable,
elasticated all-round hem,
underbody straps.
Theft deterrant.
IN-GARAGE
Dust-proofed nylon textile,
breathable, easily washable,
elasticated both ends.
All our covers have two protected front door zips. We cover cars from 8 feet to 22 feet -
all shapes and sizes - as well as cover motorcycles and caravans.
We also produce bespoke storage bags for the Cappuccino roof panels.
PRICES
(including VAT/ UK delivery; please call for overseas delivery)
Outdoor Cover : £102
In-Garage Cover : £73
Set of 3 Roof Panel Storage Bags: £88
We accept most credit and debit cards - cheques payable to Cover System
COVER SYSTEMS (CAP)
49 Grove Road, Rushden NN10 0YD
+44 (0) 1933 410 851 (Monday - Saturday)
9
What’s on in 2004
SCORE Events being organised for you
The second half of 2004 seems to be just as busy as the first half!
There’s quite a team of SCORE enthusiasts keen to organise events for everyone. As
we hope you can appreciate, it does take a lot of time, effort and commitment to do
these things so have a look at our “events menu”, make your choice and go for it!
Book early to avoid disappointment....
And if you are keen to do something, then do make contact with your local SCORE
Rep (see pages 3 - 4) to ensure you get their assistance.
SCORE is all about fun as well as sharing our technical expertise and knowledge.
DATEEVENTWHO TO CONTACT
3/4 JulyMotorex, Sydney, AustraliaErnst Luthi
+ 61 2 9879 7069
10 JulyMovies Music Concert, Waddesdon,Fiona Watts
Buckinghamshire01992 718881
17/18 JulyFridayAd Show, Halland, East SussexKaty Dobson
01825 762 048
23/25 JulyBlack Forest Cruise, GermanyRoland Beck
+49 782 22 142
1 AugustSuzuki Sunday at the Ace Cafe,Alex Clouter
Treasure Hunt, Marwell Zoo2003Farm Museum/ Country Run, Oxfordshire
Expect the unexpected for next year!
11
Cappuccino Conundrum
Answers to the Cryptic Puzzle from Issue 15
E K I H LO TT G D G N M W V
R D F O D U N E F G I O R H K
O P V U N W N I D L D I F E C
CEG I Y I Z H C I I S O E H
S X N V G L D L F C R N S L WX G X N P O L I S H U E O X J
S P E E D A C A C M V P P O X
S Q O A M A V C R N C S P S BZ P B S T G O M Q L O U C A I
S C O I Q T U M F D S S C S C
T I O R E G R A H C O B R U T
O N L L T Y E U Q I N U K Z DS L N V T W F O O R P U Z U E
W H E A E Y W M B B F O F K R
U H H I W R F J Q I V P D I V
Start from the top left square...
(Across,Down,Direction)
CAPPUCCINO (15,10,NW)
ENGINE (3,7,NE)
FUN (13,14,NW)
LOVE (5,1,SW)
MODIFICATIONS (13,1,SW)
POLISH (5,6,E)
RALLY (9,8,NW)
RED (15,14,N)
ROOF (10,13,W)
SCORE (1,5,N)
SILVER (1,10,SE)
SMALL (4,9,NE)
SPEED (1,7,E)
SPORT (1,8,SE)
SUSPENSION (12,10,N)
SUZUKI (14,10,S)
TUNING (7,1,SW)
TURBOCHARGER (15,11,W)
UNIQUE (12,12,W)
WHEEL (14,1,S)
12
A special thanks to Sally Baker for devising this!
Magazine Competiton
The Final Result
“This is what happens when a Cappuccino slips on a banana skin!”
Gavin Radforth, Ossett, West Yorkshire
Well... not really. This photo shows Gavin’s silver Cappuccino during some much
needed sill repairs using his father’s car roller machine. Congratulations to Gavin who
wins a Cappuccino plastic assembly model.
Levoi’s Limited
Berechurch Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 7QB
the first dealer to sign up with the club as a Suzuki SCORE Dealer,
looking after the needs of Cappuccino owners
- wealth of technical expertise -
- top quality servicing -
- SCORE discount on parts and servicing -
- keen Cappuccino enthusiasts -
- help for overseas SCORE members -
Call Ian Johnson on
+44 (0) 1206 544 233
info@levois.co.uk
13
Benson Memorial Trophy
With feedback from 69 members, Dave Benson’s name was the top nomination as the
individual who had “done their bit”/ “made their mark” within the club magazine.
The results were as follows:
1. Dave Benson31
2. Murray Betts16
3. Alex Clouter12
4. Ian Linden10
Dave has left an immense and immovable tablet of stone within SCORE, inscribed
with his incredible Cappuccino knowledge, enthusiasm, advice and useful tips as well
as his sense of fun... These are permanently set in the back issues of club magazines
as well as on the website. Also in our memories - to those who have been in SCORE
for a long time - and in the photos of the many events Dave attended and showed us
all his insatiable lust of the Cappuccino.
The Memorial Trophy has been sent onto Sue Oakley, who was Dave’s partner.
Website News
Thanks to the help of Adrian Furniss and Ian Linden, we now have the Suzuki Parts
Catalogue for Type 1 and Type 2 Cappuccino online.
Go to the message board area on the website. By clicking on the “manuals” icon on
the top navigation bar, you get the exclusive use of these manuals as well as the
Cappuccino service manuals (original Japanese manual and the UK spec. supplement),
the owners manual and fitting instructions for the Suzuki tonneau cover
SCORE has had the written approval from Suzuki in reproducing their literature on
the website for the exclusive use of club members.
.
14
Servicing your Cappuccino
A Plug for Suzuki
If you prefer to have the real “hard copies” of the main Cappuccino service manual
and/ or the UK Cappuccino specification, you can!
They are available to order, from any Suzuki Dealer. The part numbers are as follows:
Main Service ManualUK Supplement
99500 - 80F00 - 01E99501 - CAPP - 1
Price: £54.89 Price: £11.03
Prices quoted exclude VAT. You will get SCORE discount if purchased through a
Suzuki SCORE Dealer - please see list of Dealers on pages 81 - 83 in this magazine.
Don’t get put off by the SX306 branding on the front cover. In Japan this was the
internal code reference attributed to the Cappuccino by Suzuki for their offices and
the Kosai factory where the car was produced from 1991 - 1997.
Inside the manuals there’s a massive Cappuccino databank. The main service manual
runs through all procedures for diagnosis, maintenance, adjustments, minor service
operations, replacement of components (for servicing) and for disassembly and
assembly of major components (for unit repair/ overhaul).
The main service manual relates to the original Japanese specification. When Suzuki
developed the UK specification, the Cappuccino had to undergo 30 modifications for
the vehicle to meet the then British T
has to be read in conjunction with the main service manual.
Feel free to use the general forum on the SCORE website for any technical questions:
learn and be amazed by the answers from other members and their knowledge.
ype Approval. This is where the UK supplement
15
Fitting the High Level Brake Light
By Ian Linden
This article is culled from the SCORE Germany website (http://www.cappo660.de/)
and several posts on the main SCORE site. The original article was written by Sven
Koch and translated by Adrian Furniss. There are some excellent photos by Steve
Lewis in the FAQ area on the SCORE website. Editor note: we have included these
images later on in this article.
The European Cappuccino is a victim of a decision (by the then British Type Approval
authorities) not to permit the vehicle to have a High Level Brake Light (HLBL). One
imagines this was because it was considered not high enough! Consequently, the
Japanese factory made a "dummy" HLBL unit, which does not contain the array of
Light-emitting Diodes (LEDs) fitted to the home market cars. However, the cabling for
the light was fitted, and a socket can be found behind the boot carpeting, near the
jack stowage position. Nowadays, there are many examples of HLBLs at or below the
level of the Cappo's, and there is no reason all European models should not have this
rather attractive safety feature enabled.
Step 1: Buy a LED brake light strip of the right length to fit the space. This should be
less than £20, depending upon number of LEDs. I bought a complete fitting, intended
for the interior of a car, and removed the strip from it. Note: LEDs light up 100 times
faster than conventional lamps.
Step 2: Optionally, remove the plastic moulding behind the seats to give easy access
to the following stages. (You can manage without doing this, but it's not too difficult
to do, and it will give you the opportunity to check for corrosion in the area of the
fuel tank). Take care when disentangling the side mouldings from the seats’ belts and
mountings.
Step 3: Underneath the rear window, you will see 4 screws which secure the black
coaming which houses the brake light. Remove these screws. This step is easier if the
back window is raised out of the way. I found it helpful to pull it forward of the
hoop, so that the bottom comes clear of the coaming (lubricate it well when the time
comes to get it back inside the coaming, and it will go in). While it’s in the forward
position, hold it there with some soft cord, passed round the hoop, under the rear of
the window, and forward to (say) the steering wheel.
Step 4: Optionally, to lift the coaming away, yet another 2 screws, one each side, may
be removed. The screw is near the hinge point of the roof pillar and is covered with a
leatherette strip. Pull this away, and you will see the recessed crosshead screw. (As a
ence, at this point, on the exterior of the coaming is a sort of rivet.) Y
efer
r
you wish dispense with this step, if you are very careful to limit the amount by which
you raise the coaming in the next step, and I've not heard of anyone coming to grief
by doing that (but ther
e's always a first!).
ou can if
16
Step 5: Now you can lift the coaming (only a small distance if you omitted Step 4;
the plastic is very brittle!) and unscrew the brake light dummy. The lamp unit is
secured to the coaming by two upwards-pointing screws. Because you must lift the
coaming the minimum amount (to avoid snapping the coaming), any old screwdriver
won't do the trick. I managed with a removable bit from a power screwdriver, held in
There is a photo of Steve Lewis using a very short screwdriver later.
pliers.
Step 6: The engineer who specified the glue which fastens the lamp unit lens to the
body did not intend you to open it! The lens material is very brittle, so great care is
needed. Loctite release fluid has been suggested for dissolving the glue. I had success
with a paint brush cleaning agent, which did not attack the plastic, but, very slowly,
dissolved the glue. Try on an inconspicuous corner, and expect to take a long time.
Very gentle pressure only. Alternatively, cut the dummy open using a small rotary
tool e.g. Drehmel, or a craft knife, and thus separate the red lens from the black
housing. Caution: These parts are re-used.
Step 7: Attach the LED strip to the housing. What you use for this will depend on
the exact form of your strip, and what you have to hand. Silicone, or similar, and
superglue have been used. Some strips benefit from being attached to a reinforcing
piece, which can be screwed to the blind posts in the housing (Drill the posts
carefully to make the holes for self-tapping screws). With great care, feed the cable
out and through an available hole in the housing into the vehicle interior.
Step 8: Stick the red lens back to the black housing and leave to dry.
Step 9: Feed the cable over toward the driver's side and thence through an available
hole into the boot. It will help to push a wire coat hanger, or that flexible plasticcoated "net curtain rail", through the grommet from the boot side into the cabin,
attach the LED cable to the end of the coat hanger and pull it through into the boot.
Step 10: If you do not have the male equivalent to mate to the harness socket
connection then cut off the harness socket and replace with bullet or spade connectors, or solder the ends together. The car cable harness is GW (Green with White
tracer) for Positive, and Black for Negative. Make sure that everything is insulated.
Test first before you finalise this step - because the lamp unit you are fitting is an
array of diodes, it only works if the voltage is applied in the right direction. I knew
this and took great care to get it the right way round - and failed! Maybe my diodes
were mismarked! So the moral is, if it doesn't work, swap the connections in the
socket (the diodes will not be harmed by the misconnection, they just won't light).
Step 11: Re-assembly, as they say, is the reverse of disassembly. If you followed the
advice to pull the window forward of the hoop, you now have an opportunity to treat
the rubber edging with a suitable preservative. If you removed the plastic trim behind
the seats, have a good check for corrosion, and treat any affected areas.
Step 12: Get someone to press the brake pedal while you’re behind the car. Enjoy!
17
Fitting the High Level Brake Light... from another angle.
By Steve Lewis... with contributions from Christine Maguire and Ian Linden
I finally got around to installing a high level brake light on the weekend. I thought I'd
take some pictures of the process to add to the descriptions given by other members.
Tools required:
Philips screw drivers (stubby and long).
Wire snips/strippers.
2 pairs of connecting terminals (if you do not have a male end to fit the original
connection).
Wire coat-hanger (straightened).
Long nose pliers.
LED strips can be sourced from several places, I picked up a 28 array LED from Ebay
for a fiver. They are usually encased so you will have to strip them apart - take care
not to snap the LED circuit board.
Christine Maguire wrote: Remove 4 screws ( of the six) beneath the comb ( you can’t
get at the front two but no matter). Ian Linden continues: The rear window can get in
the way. I found it helpful to pull it forward of the hoop, so that the bottom comes
clear of the coaming (lubricate it well when the time comes to get it back inside the
coaming, and it will go in).
Christine Maguire wrote: GENTLY waggle comb till it comes free and lift max of three
inches to r
eveal the two screws holding rear reflector/ empty light fitting.....
18
Christine Maguire wrote: remove these with very small stubby posidrive type driver.
Ian Linden wrote: The engineer who specified the glue which fastens the lamp unit
lens to the body did not intend you to open it! The lens material is very brittle, so
great care is needed. Loctite release fluid has been suggested for dissolving the glue. I
had success with a paint brush cleaning agent, which did not attack the plastic, but,
very slowly, dissolved the glue. Try on an inconspicuous corner, and expect to take a
long time. Very gentle pressure only.
Christine Maguire wrote: Open with craft knife( scoring along glue line) CAREFULLY.
Steve Lewis wrote: I didn't have any solvent so I used Christine’s method - be warned
you need to take great care and it is a long and laborious process.
19
Steve Lewis continues: Attach the LED strip to the mount - various methods can be
used - silicon, glue etc. Silicon takes a long time to set (besides I did not have any) so
I used superglue and further reinforced this with strong elastic cord - you do not
want the LED coming loose within the housing. Superglue the reflector onto the
backing.
To get the wires into the boot I pushed a wire coat hanger through the grommet from
the bootside into the cabin, attached the LED wire to the end of the coat hanger and
pulled it through into the boot. If you do not have the male equivilant for the original
connection then cut off the original connection and replace with bullet or spade
connectors - make sure that everything is insulated.
Test that the LED works - voila! Job well done.
20
Fitting the Remote Bootlid Release
By Don Littlemore
Editor Note: Over the past year SCORE has been assisting online club members with
obtaining a remote boot release kit than enables opening the bootlid by a “pull up”lever
that is sited with the fuel flap release in the centre console. This saves you having to
switch the ignition off if you need to quick access to the boot of the car whilst the engine
is running.
Preliminaries
These instructions are written to assist those who have little or no experience of
playing around with car trim parts, and so may seem over detailed for those car
"techies" amongst us. However, when I started on this task I would have found the
following information re-assuring and that it was possible to do it in a few hours
without damage to myself, the car or my pocket. The information is offered with no
liability for errors or any problems or damage resulting from using these words of
advice.
Pick a nice dry day and allow yourself a couple of hours. Once you have removed all
the trims described below, it should become clear how the new cable routes through
from the boot to the centre console. Remove the roof panels and then drop the rear
window down fully. Turn the courtesy light switch to the centre off position. Some
of the trims are secured with black plastic co-axial clips. You release these by lightly
pressing the small central button with a small screwdriver until it clicks, then lift out
the whole clip taking care not to lose the centre button pin. If you push the little
button in too far you may lose it forever inside the bodywork - you may be able to
get your fingers behind the clip in some places to stop it disappearing! To refit the
clips, pull the centre pin halfway out, insert outer ring in bodywork and push centre
pin back flush with the ring.
1.Remove Centre Console
There are two screws under the rubber mat inside the cubbyhole, two screws under
caps beside the gearshift and two screws beside the rear window latch lever. Pop out
the separate plate housing the courtesy light switch (a bit fiddly - you may need to
jiggle the rear window latch and lever) and pass it through to the back of the console
so that you can fully lift the main console forward. You can ease the console off the
hand brake lever by opening the press-stud around the gaiter.
2.Remove Parcel Shelf Centre
There are two screws holding the bottom edge just above the rear window latch, and
then with care unclip the centre panel along the edges of the side panels. Be careful
not to crack the plastic trim.
22
3.Remove Parcel Shelf Side Panels
Each panel has a co-axial clip at the top (now exposed by removing the centre panel),
two co-axial clips behind the seat belt webbing and one co-axial clip shared with the
doorsill trim. Carefully ease the lugs/clips holding the side trim to the doorsill trim.
There is a flat metal clip holding the top edge around the seat belt moulding, ease one
side of this off and you should be able to extract the trim from around the seat belt
and its mounting pillar.
4.Carpet behind Passenger Seat
Ease off the clear clip retaining the carpet to the rear bulkhead top lip, and pull it
away, exposing the run of the existing fuel cap release cable. I found it helpful to cut
the small section of carpet directly above the fuel cap lever to give better access to
the lever bracket.
5.Remove Existing Lever
Undo the single screw holding the existing lever to the body and remove it. Take off
the fuel cap cable - I found it easier to remove the return spring from the lever first,
then prise off the outer sheath and inner cable barrel end from the assembly.
6.Remove Carpeting From Boot
First remove centre floor carpet and then the jack. Remove the right hand carpet
(unclip the lid lifting spring from the bracket at the rear of the car first) by taking out
all the co-axial clips and one screw-on cap over an exposed thread at the rear of the
car. Next take out the co-axial clips holding the carpet covering the boot lid catch
mechanism underneath the boot lip, and then remove the two screws fixing the roof
panel securing clip and lift out that section of carpet.
7.Rubber Grommet
Ease out the rubber grommet carrying the car radio aerial lead (top one of the pair
located at the right-hand corner) and cut a small slit alongside the aerial cable with a
Stanley knife so that you can feed the boot release cable through later.
8.Fit Cable to Boot Catch
This is easier to do than describe! Have a good look from the LHS and RHS first just
see where things go. Take the new cable with the little ball on the end of it and fit it
to the lid latch mechanism as follows: look from the LHS into the latch mechanism &
you will see an empty slot (with an angled protruding lug which I think prevents the
ball sliding out of place once fitted). You now need to feed the ball end of the cable
from the RHS of the catch, but continue looking from the left and hook it into place
by jiggling it about (the opening for the slot is towards the front edge of the
(not the lock where the key goes)
23
latch plate). Have patience and it will suddenly slot in, the art seems to be not to try
too hard, but if you are not successful then stop, have a cup of tea and try again after
a break. Now pull the outer cable as far as possible to the right and looking from the
RHS of the latch you will see the slot that the outer sheath end pushes in to on the
fixed part of the latch. Again with a bit of jiggling fit the outer sheath to the fixed
part of the latch. When you pull/push the other end of the cable in/out you should
hear and see the lid latch operating - if not keep drinking the tea and try again!
9.Fit cable around boot edge
Feed the far end of the cable behind the rear light cable loom and push the end
through the slit made in the grommet a little way into the car
10.Pull Cable into Car
There is plenty of plastic and foam sheeting on the inside around the seat belt anchor,
so you may have difficulty finding the end you have just fed through. The knack
seems to be to lift the rear window frame so that you can look directly down to
where the cable comes through. Unlatch the rear window and pull up the roof spar
frame, but leave the window itself unclipped from the roof spar and continue to pull
up the window itself past the plastic sill on the boot top into the underside of the
roof spar. This should give you a couple of inches room to see and feel where the
cable feeds thr
ough into the car. It should appear from behind the vinyl and foam
sheeting on top of the wheel arch when you wiggle it about a bit. Pull the cable fully
DID YOU
KNOW?
Thunderbirds was named after a U.S. Airforce base in Arizona. where Gerry
Anderson’s brother learned to fly.
The actual marionettes used in the TV series were 20 - 24 inches tall, made from
wood and leather (used as a hinge on the moving lips) with fine wire.
Anthony Perkins (from Hitchcock’s fim ‘Psycho’) formed the inspiration for Brains,
whilst Scott Tracy, eldest of the sons, was based on Sean Connery.
The television series consisted of 32 episodes.
others were named after famous U.S. astronauts.
racy br
The T
What did F
‘fab’. Gerr
received and understood’.”
AB mean? In the 1960s the buzz wor
y Anderson:
24
“So we used ‘F
’ as a code meaning ‘your message has been
AB
d was ‘fabulous’ which shortened to
through into the car, leaving it neatly tucked around the edge of the boot and then
replace the rubber grommet in to the bulkhead. Lay the cable across the car over the
fuel tank until you get to the existing fuel filler cable, and then run the new cable
along with it to the new lever.
11.Fit Cables to New Lever
Take the two return springs off the lever. Fit the fuel cap cable first to the inner lever
in the reverse way to how you took it off - i.e. fit the inner cable barrel on to the
moving lever first and then the outer sheath to the fixed part after, then replace the
return spring. Fit the new cable in the same way to the outer lever. You should now
be able to operate the fuel cap and boot lid latches. If all is well, then screw the lever
assembly back onto the centre console, and fit the two cables behind the carpet with
the sticky tape.
12.Refit
Now refit everything back in place in reverse order, ensuring that the rear window
doesn't snag the cable as it is raised and lowered. Take care when you push the rear
window back down that you do not damage the rubber seal on the black plastic trim.
13.Lucky for Some - Final Test
Place your ignition keys in the boot and slam the lid shut. Walk round to the side of
the car and raise the boot release lever and retrieve your keys! Thirteen is your
unlucky number if your keys remain in the boot - perhaps I should have suggested
that you check that the console lid is not locked down before you do this final test!!!
14.Remember
You must keep your central console lid locked when you leave the car unattended
with the roof down if you want your valuables kept safe in the boot, but don't leave
your keys in the boot when the console lid is locked otherwise you will be back at
square one!!
NOW THAT YOU HAVE READ ABOUT FITTING THE REMOTE BOOT
RELEASE KIT, HERE’S HOW TO ORDER ONE DIRECTLY FROM SCORE
UK Members: £45 - Euro Members: 68 Euros - Oz/ NZ Members : 125 Oz Dollars
Price includes the kit, packaging and postage to all country zones
As we want to order in bulk, you must send your order with payment to Alex Clouter (details on
page 2) by
the deadline using your name as a r
statement) and then phone/ email Alex to confirm the date/ time of the money transfer. We will
place the bulk order during the last week of August. Please expect a 2 month delivery turnaround.
16 August 2004. If you want to pay by bank transfer (details on page 84) do this by
ence (so that we can identify your details on our online bank
efer
25
Nitrous Adventure - Part 3: The Pictures
By Adam Jarvis
Got the project finished, so here are some pics as promised... enjoy!
I put the main primer switch in the ash tray, just so it doesn’t get accidentally
switched on, plus the fact it’s hidden away. I am thinking of wiring up an LED in front
of the hazard switch so I can easily see when it is armed.
I mounted the bottle at a slight angle in the end, so it was easier to fit and remove
for refills. It’s right in the corner of the passenger footwell in front of the speaker. It’s
hard to see in the pic but the bottle has been polished to a mirror finish (not by me).
After wiring the main switch I mounted the pulsoids right at the front of the engine
. All mounting brack
bay
ed (well, in the above picture, the one on the left) is the fuel pulsoid and the
The r
blue (on the right) is the NOS. It’s pretty simple to wire up: the main switch is wired
to an ignition feed and then connected to one wire on each of the pulsoids.
ets etc came with the kit - I just had to adapt them slightly.
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