Two Thread Overcast
Two Thread Flatlock
Two Thread Wrapped Edge
Two Thread Rolled Edge
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
56
57
58
59
60
SECTION VII - Optional Accessory Feet
Blind Hem Foot
Piping/Cording Foot
Elastic Foot
Shirring Foot
SECTION vm - Special Hints
Puckery Fabric
Skipped Stitches
Stitiches Show Through on the Right Side of Seam
Thread Continues to Break
Cannot Get a Tight Stitch at the Cut Edge of the Fabric
Adjusting Tensions
Machine is Jamming
INDEX
61
61
62
63
64
65
65
65
65
65
66
66
66
67-69
II
Page 4
tNTRODUCTtON
Welcome to the world of easy, speed sewing. The White Superlock was designed with
the home sewer in mind. It is simple to thread, simple to change from regular sewing to specialty
sewing, such as flatlock and rolled edge. The automatic thread tension release will help you
in easy removal of your projects and creative sewing. This workbook is compiled in a method
so you will thoroughly understand the machine and its potential. After following these
instructions, you will marvel at how easy your new White Superlock is to operate.
Page 5
SECTION I
KNOW YOUR MACHINE - MODEL 2000 ATS
Top of the line Superlock model 20CXÌ ATS is a 2/3/4 thread serger with adjustable
cutting width, built in rolled edge and differential feed. It is capable of two, three or four
thread sewing plus many decorative and specialty applications. A section of this workbook
outlines many different techniques, specialty feet, and simple quick projects for you to try
on your new Superlock.
1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE
IDENTIFICATION CHART
1. Foot pressure regulator
2. Sewing light
3. Presser foot lift lever
4. Thread cutter (Model 2000 only)
5. Needle plate
6. Presser foot
7. Overedge cutting width dial
8. Swing away side cover
9. Thread guide pole
10. Left needle thread tension dial
11. Right needle thread tension dial
12. Lower looper thread tension dial
13. Upper looper thread tension dial
14. Needle thread guides
15. Thread cutter lever (Model 2000 only)
16. Two thread convertor Instruction
17. Threading chart
18. Waste tray (Model 2000 only)
19. Foot control
20. Release lever side cover
21. Foot release lever
22. Thread extension plate
23. Differential feed control dial
24. Stitch length dial
25. Hand wheel
26. Plug connector socket
27. Light and power switch
28. Front cover
29. Moving cutter
30. Upper looper
31. Lower looper
(Model 2000 only)
Page 6
ACCESSORIES
All parts listed may be obtained from your nearest dealer.
(D (D
^
P
I I
*
1. Two-thread convertor
(Model 2000 only)
2. Needle set
3. Brush
4. Screwdriver (small)
5. Needle threader
6. Machine cover
7. Screwdriver (large)
8. Oiler
*Only Model 2000 has storage of accessories at the back of front cover.
9. Moving cutter
10. Spanner
11. Thread net
12. Tweezers
13. Thread extension plate
14. Cone holder
15. Cord guide
16. Accessory bag
Page 7
SUPERLOCK SET UP & MAINTENANCE
1. Set your Superlock on a sturdy, flat surface.
2. Your Superlock has been thoroughly oiled at the
factory so be sure to wipe the needle and bed
plate areas carefully before sewing a garment.
Practice on a scrap of fabric so any surplus oil
is absorbed.
3. FOOT CONTROL
Push foot control plug into the connector socket
at the bottom right side of your Superlock.
4. POWER/LIGHT SWITCH
To operate your machine, turn the power switch
on. It is located at the bottom right hand side.
The same switch controls both power and light.
If leaving your Superlock unattended, turn
switch off.
Connector
socket
5. OPENING FRONT COVER
To open front cover, push part B of cutter cover
to right and pull the cover down toward you.
To open the side cover, press down on the
silver knob located to the inside of the side cover,
and swing the lower left portion of the Superlock
to the left.
6. CLOSING FRONT COVER
Push part B and lower left cover toward the
center of the front to close it.
Note: Always close front cover when sewing.
7. OPENING SWING-AWAY SIDE COVER
To open side cover, pull the release lever toward
you with your right hand and swing out to left.
NOTE: Always close side cover when sewing.
Release lever
Swing away
side cover
Page 8
8. HANDWHEEL
Always turn handwheel toward you.
9. PRESSER FOOT LIFT
Raise the presser foot lift to lift up the
presser foot.
10. CHANGING PRESSER FOOT
Switch off your Superlock.
Raise presser foot.
Raise needles to their highest position by
turning handwheel toward you.
Push lever A and foot will come off.
Position the new foot with pin right under
the groove of the ankle. Lower presser foot
lift so that holder catches the presser foot.
11. ADJUSTMENT OF THE PRESSER
FOOT PRESSURE
The presser foot pressure is pre-adjusted
for materials of medium thickness.
Adjustment is necessary only when
you work on very thin or very thick
materials. Accordingly, sew thinner
materials with less pressure (2 - 3)
and thicker materials with more pressure
(4 - 5). Increase the pressure of the presser
foot by turning the dial to the desired number.
Foot release lever
Page 9
12. DISENGAGING UPPER CUTTER
To lower the upper cutter, open the left
front cover and turn the cutter knob toward
you until the cutter is all the way in the
down position. BE SURE TO PUT CUTTER
BACK UP BEFORE SEWING.
13. EXCLUSIVE BUILT-IN THREAD CUTTER
The built-in scissor conveniently cuts your
thread tail simply by pressing down on the
lever as illustrated, then releasing to cut.
14. ADJUSTABLE FABRIC GUIDE
The adjustable seam guide can slide to the
left or right as needed to keep fabric straight
while serging seams.
15. WASTE TRAY
Place the large waste tray on the front of
your Superlock by hooking over the slot on
the right front cover and inserting the peg
on the left into the hole on the side cover,
as illustrated.
Page 10
16. OILING
Lubrication is not required often for
this machine since the important parts are all
made of a special oil impregnated sintered
metal. You will want to occasionally put one
or two drops of oil on moving metal parts will
increase durability.
17. CLEANING
First disconnect machine from power supply
by removing plug from the electric outlet.
Open front cover and side cover (see pg. 3).
Using the brush provided, remove all the dust
and lint that has accumulated. Remember to
also clean between the cutters often.
18. STORAGE
When the machine is not in use, disconnect
it from the power supply by removing plug
from the electric outlet.
Using the vinyl cover provided, cover
your machine when not in use.
8
Page 11
)
HINTS FOR SUCCESSFUL STITCHING
An understanding of the following variables will make your Superlock run smoothly and
your work will look professional. Before sewing, always test the compatibility of your fabric,
thread, pressure, stitch length, and tension.
Thread Selection
When selecting the proper thread, choose one that is compatible with the fashion and
the fabric. Polyester threads (or polyester based) are most commonly used for general
sewing purposes. Threads of different fibers (cotton, rayon, silk, etc.) are available for
special sewing.
Quality is a very important consideration when selecting a thread. A thread of poor
quality will result in operating and stitching problems on any type of sewing machine. Syn
thetic threads are made by twisting filaments together. Lower quality synthetic threads are
made by twisting short, leftover filaments of polyester together. The result is a "hairy*
appearance and a weaker thread. Better quality threads are made by twisting long continu
ous filaments together. This thread is stronger and smoother, thus fewer operating prob
lems will occur. Brand name and price do not necessarily represent quality in a thread.
The only true test of thread quality is close examination.
A variety of threads are available for overlooks. They may be of cotton, cottonwrapped polyester, polyester or nylon (Wooly Nylon®). These are most often put up on
cones or tubes. Threads for the overlock are generally finer and lighter in weight than
standard sewing machine thread. This is because of the large amount of thread that builds
up in an overlook seam. Finer thread makes for a less bulky seam. Your Superlock will
handle thread on cones or spools. Many decorative threads will be discussed later in this
workbook.
Page 12
■»
NEEDLE REPLACEMENT
Replace needles in the following way:
1. Bring needles to their highest position by turning handwheel towards you.
2. Lower presser foot.
3. Open front cover: the screwdriver and needles are located inside the handy storage
area.
4. When replacing right needle, loosen right needle clamp screw, marked "R", and remove
needle. Be sure to store extra loose needles in needle cushion.
To replace left needle, loosen left needle clamp screw.
5. With the flat side away from you, insert the new needle into groove of needle bar as far
as it will go. Use an Organ brand HA x 1SP. These are standard needles used for home
sewing.
Change needles after each garment for best results.
10
Page 13
NEEDLES, THREAD & FABRIC CHART
Needles
Proper needles are important when using your White Superlock. A standard sewing
machine needle of good quality, Organ brand HA X 1SP, can be used on your
Superlock. Change needles often for best results.
Caution:Do not used banded needles (i.e., yellow band) on your White Superlock.
These can cause skipped stitches and possibly bend or break needles or damage
loopers.
Threads
Any good quality cotton, polyester, silk, synthetic threads, etc., can be used on your
Superlock. Wooly Nylon®, a stretchy, yarn-like thread, is recommended in upper
and lower loopers for rolled edge and lingerie sewing.
COTTON
LINEN
WOOL
SYNTHETIC
FIBER
KNIT
Fabric
Lightweight:
Organdy, Lawn, Calico
Heavyweight
Oxford, Denim, Corduroy
Lightweight:
Tropical, Wool, Poplin
Mediumweight:
Gabardine, Flannel
Heavyweight:
Velours, Camelhair
Lightweight:
Georgette, Crepe, Voile
Heavyweight:
Taffeta, Twills, Denim
Tricot
Thread
Cotton #80
Polyester #60 - 50
Cotton #60
Polyester #80
Cotton #60
Polyester #80-60
Cotton #60
Polyester #60-50
Cotton #60
Polyester #100-80
Cotton #120-80
Polyester #60
Cotton #60
Polyester #80-60
Cotton #80-60
Needle
90 (14)
for general
sewing
75(11)
for light
weight
fabrics
Jersey, Interlock
Wool
Polyester #60-50
Cotton #60
Polyester #60-50
Wooly Nylon
11
Page 14
SECTION II - THREADING & TENSION
Spool cap
Preparation for Threading
Spool Holders
For large cones of thread, use the black plastic
cone holders. This will help hold the cone of
thread in place.
Spool Caps
When using small spools, remove the
plastic cone-spool holders (a drop of oil will
make the holder slide off easily), and place the
spool directly on the spool pin. Use the spool cap
to keep the spool in place and to prevent the
thread from catching on edges of the spool.
Spool Nets
Spools of specialty thread sometimes work loose
from the spool during sewing, causing tangling or
irregular thread feeding. To prevent this use the
spool net provided as shown.
Extension plate
Domestic cotton reel
Cone type thread
Cone holder
▼ .4'
Thread comes off the top
Net
I
Net
m
.Turn up
\
Spool
NOTE: Specialty threads, such as fine perle cotton. Designer 6 by YU®, Ribbon Flos^,
and Pearl Crown Rayon® by YU may be used in the loopers of your Superlock.
For successful stitching be sure these threads feed off their spools or skeins easily.
Spool
12
Page 15
Your White Superlock is very easy to thread. With some practice you will be
able to thread it in a few minutes without using any tools. Master the correct
threading before starting your first project.
To become familiar with your Superlock, practice on scrap fabric with different
color threads to identify placement and function of each thread.
Threading must be carried out in the following sequence for total ease of
operation: upper looper - lower Looper - right needle - left needle.
Extend the thread pole to its highest point, then turn it until the shaft clicks
into its locked position. Place threads on spools and draw ends through the
guides from rear to front.
Your Instruction Manual shows threading the lower looper first. We have
found that threading your upper looper first is easier and will allow your
threads to lay in the correct order for a proper stitch.
13
Page 16
THREADING UPPER LOOPER
Open front covers.
Bring the upper looper to its lowest position by turning the handwheel toward you
Draw thread from spool and pass it through the thread stand (back to front), under
thread clip guide (1) and then, in order, through guides 2-4 as illustrated below and
inside the front cover of your Superlock.
With the presser foot raised to release tension, lay thread between
thread tension discs. (2) Be sure thread is all the way into the tension discs.
Snap thread into guide A, B, and C (illustration 3), then thread the hole of the upper
looper (4) using the tweezers provided if necessary.
Bring thread tail under foot and toward back left corner of your Superlock.
14
Page 17
THREADING LOWER LOOPER
Bring the thread from the spool through thread guide back to front of the thread stand
under (1) and then, in order, through guides 2-4 as illustrated below and inside front
cover of your Superlock.
With the presser foot raised to release tension, lay thread between thread
tension discs. Be sure thread is seeded all the way into the tension discs.
Bring the lower looper to the far left position by turning the handwheel toward you.
Snap thread into thread guides A, B, and C (illustration 3), then hook the thread guide
onto the lower looper thread guide D (Figure 3).
Then move the lower looper slightly to the right by turning the handwheel toward you.
Thread the eye of the lower looper D (Illustration 3). You may wish to use the tweezers
provided.
Bring thread tail under foot and toward the back left corner of the Superlock.
15
Page 18
)
THREADING NEEDLES
Raise the needles to their highest position.
Bring the thread from the spool and pass it through the guides on thread stand (back to
front), then under thread clip (1).
Lay thread between thread tension discs (2). Be sure thread is seeded all the way into the
tension discs.
Pass thread through guides A and B for each needle.
Thread each needle(s) eye (4) using your needle threader found in the storage area of the
right front cover.
To thread right needle, lower presser
foot and raise needles to their highest
position. Follow illustrations 1-6 (next
page) inserting left peg of needle threader
into hole on right side of needle bar, then
sliding wire of needle threader through eye
of needle (back to front).
Hook thread under wire hook an dull needle
threader straight back to pull thread through
eye of needle. Place thread tail under presser
foot and toward back left corner.
Thread left needle in same manner, following
illustration Slide right peg of needle threader
into slot on left side of needle bar and continue
same as for right needle. Be sure to put needle
threader back into the built-in accessory
compartment.
16
Page 19
(For right needle)
NEEDLE THREADER
17
Page 20
HELPFUL HINTS - CHANGING THREAD
The following steps may be helpful when changing your threads.
•Cut off threads that are on your Superlock
near the spools and replace the
spools with new ones. Tie new thread on
to old threads with overhand or square
knot.
•Raise presser foot and cut the needle
thread(s) right above the needle eye.
•Lower needle bar to its lowest position
by turning the handwheel. With the
presser foot in the highest position, pull
the looper threads until the knots are
about 4" past the presser foot.
•Rethread your needle(s).
18
Page 21
TESTING STITCH
After threading is completed, test your Superlock stitch in the following order:
1. Be sure both front cover and side cover are closed.
2. Without fabric under the presser foot, lower
presser foot. Pull the ends of the threads
gently with your left hand toward the rear
of the machine, turning the handwheel toward
you a few times to make sure the stitch forms
on the stitch finger (figure 1).
. Sew on scrap fabric. When you reach the end
of the fabric, raise the presser foot and remove
fabric from your Superlock. Use the handy
thread cutter (figure 3) on your Superlock to cut
your threads. Use the illustrations on the
following pages to check the stitch formation
produced to see if it is uniform. If not, you will
need to adjust tensions and/or recheck threading.
19
Page 22
THREAD TENSIONS
Thread tensions will vary according to the type and thickness of your thread and fabric.
In most cases these tensions will only vary slightly. Turning the tension dial to a lower
number gives you less tension. Threading your Superlock with four different colors of
thread will help you identify the placement and function of each thread.
Upper Looper Thread should be flat on the top side of fabric and lock with the
lower looper thread on the edge.
Lower Looper Thread should be flat on the underside of fabric and lock with the
upper looper thread on the edge.
The needle threads should lay mainly on the top side like rows of normal straight
sewing. The left needle will form a line of sewing along the left edge connecting the
two looper threads and the right needle acts as a "safety stitch"-forming a line of
stitching through the upper looper thread.
Set your Superlock according to the tensions recommended below. Try test sewing on
a piece of medium weight fabric. If you need to change the tensions mark them down
for future reference.
Left Needle (LN)
Right Needle (RN)
Upper Looper (UL) __4
Lower Looper (LL)
We will refer to these tensions as normal.
These tension recommendations are for average strength thread tension. It may be
necessary to adjust the thread tension(s) slightly as different weights of fabric and
thread can make a difference. Your tensions should remain in the outlined area on the
tension dial.
____
___4__
___
4__
__
4__
20
Page 23
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION
#
Just Right
Left Needle Thread Loose
and visible on undereide of
fabric.
Upper Looper Thread
Pulled to the Underside
Increase upper looper thread
tension and/or decrease lower
looper tension.
Right Needle Thread Loose
and visible on underside of fabric.
Lower Looper Thread
Pulled to the Top Side
Under side
, J ' tooper
i Top side'
Increase lower looper thread
tension and/or decrease upper
looper tension.
j ' thread
^ Lower
Top skte It
Increase left needle tension
and/or cteaease both loopers.
Increase right needle thread tension.
I-
21
Page 24
SECTION III
BASIC SEWING TECHNIQUES
Sew samples for the next section of this workbook, and record your
tension settings on each page for future reference.
22
Page 25
SUPERLOCK SEAMS & SEAM FINISH
Seam and overcast all in one step. Your Superlock produces fast, professionally-
•Place under presser foot with folded edge to be trimmed to the right.
•Use your 5/8* seam allowance as a guide.
•Serge seam.
•Lift the presser foot, and pull your sample away. And cut the threads
using the thread cutter.
To overcast raw edges for conventional seaming - Serge one edge of above
sample to finish raw edge. Mount your sample on the facing page.
23
Page 26
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
Turn the stitch length dial (located on the right side of your Superlock) until the
required length is at the guideline. The higher the number, the longer the stitch.
With the dial you can adjust the stitch length from R for rolled edge to 5mm.
Stitch Length Sample
Machine Settings
Stitch length: 1 - 5 (see illustration)
Stitch width: 6
Fabric Medium weight woven
Tension Settings
Normal
LN
RN-4UL-4LL- 4-
-4-
Serge
•Fold fabric in half.
•Set stitch length to 5mm.
•Stitch along edge stopping every inch and
decreasing stitch length to 4, then 3, etc.
24
Page 27
ADJUSTING CUTTING WIDTH &
BALANCE OF STITCH
The cutting width can be adjusted from 4mm to 7mm by simply turning the cutting
width dial according to the type of fabric you are working with. This fine tune adjustment
allows you to achieve the best stitch possible on all fabric types.
The normal setting for the cutting width is 6mm.
Adjust the cutting width by turning the dial on the left side of the Superlock. If the cutting
width is narrower than the stitch width, leaving loops off the edge of the fabric, turn the
cutting width adjustment dial toward 7.
If the cutting width is wider than the stitch width causing a pucker within the overlock
seam, turn the cutting width adjustment dial toward 4.
25
Page 28
ADJUSTING CUTTING WIDTH
The cutting width can be changed for different techniques and types of fabric.
Loosely woven or heavy knit fabrics require a wider width and lighter weight
fabrics require a narrower seam width.
Machine Settings
Stitch length: 2.5 - 3.0
Stitch width: 6
Fabric
Medium weight woven
Tension Settings
Normal
Serge
Serge along one edge with the stitch width on 4mm. Serge along the
other edge with the stitch width at 7mm.
For a narrow or wide stitch width, see three thread sewing techniques on pages
38 and 39.
26
Page 29
SECURING BEGINNING & END OF SEAM
As most ends of seams and finished edges are later stitched over during garment
construction, it is often not necessary to lock ends. When needed, use one of the
following methods.
Machine Settings
Stitch Length 2.5-3
Stitch width 6
Fabric
Medium weight woven
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) - 4 (RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4-
Securing Beginning of Seam
•Fold fabric in half
•Stitch 2-3 stitches into fabric, then stop sewing.
•Raise presser foot. Bring chain around left side
of foot and under front of cutter.
•Lower presser foot and sew, cutting off excess chain.
Securing End of Seam
•Sew to end of fabric.
•Raise presser foot to release thread tensions and pull fabric 1" from foot.
•Reinsert fabric under foot about 1" from end and serge over
previous stitching.
•Raise presser foot and pull sample out.
Use thread cutter to cut threads.
Optional Securing Methods
•You may tie a knot in the thread ends. This method requires about three
inches of extra thread. After tying knot, trim ends.
•Use a small amount of Fray Check^” at the ends.
•Thread ends into the finished seam. This requires one or two
inches of thread at the end and is usually the best choice for decorative finishes.
27
Page 30
OUTSIDE CORNERS
You can stitch neat outside corners with little practice on your Superlock.
Machine Settings
Stitch Length: 2.5 •
Stitch Width: 6
Fabric
Medium weight woven
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) -4(RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4-
3.0
Serge (Sew along edge of fabric; do not trim.)
•Sew along one side of fabric to the end.
•Raise the needles and presser foot.
•Gently slide the threads off the stitch
finger of the needle plate by pulling fabric toward back of Superlock.
•Grasp the fabric gently and turn the corner.
•Realign the edge of the fabric and put the cut edge of the fabric against the cutter.
•Pull up slack in threads.
•Lower presser foot.
•Serge the edge. Repeat for the remaining corners.
28
Page 31
INSIDE CORNERS
Practice the inside corner technique for perfect inside corners or curves such as for
Christmas stockings, oven mitts or kick pleats on skirts.
Machine Settings
Stitch Length: 2.5 - 3
Stitch Width: 6
Fabric
Medium weight woven
(Cut a square out of one corner.)
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) -4(RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4-
Serge
•Align the edge with the inside edge of cutter, with bulk of fabric to the left.
•Serge up to 1/2" from the inside corner.
•Careful! Your cutter is 1/2" in front of the needle so you must fold
fabric away from the cutter before the corner reaches it.
•Pull fabric into a straight line and align the unfolded edge against the
inside edge of the cutter. There will be some tucks in the edge.
These should lay flat after stitching.
•Continue to serge along the edge.
Sleeve Placket
•Cut a 2 1/2" slit in a second piece of fabric.
•Cut a strip of fabric 1" x 5*.
•Fold strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
•Lay strip on slit right sides together.
•Using inside corner technique, stitch strip to opening forming a placket.
29
Page 32
CORDED OVERLOOK
The Specialty Technique Guide consists
of the snap on cord guide (1) found in your
accessory pouch, the guide above the
needles (2) and either hole in the presser
foot (3).
The Specialty Technique Guide guides cord
through the foot and then is covered by the upper
looper thread or is caught by the right needle,
depending on the size of cord you choose. Ribbon
or Cording can be used to stabilize where stress
occurs: joining shoulder seams, sleeves, side
seams, etc. You can also use it for a decorative
look in the areas that are visible. Use filler cord,
perle cotton, twill tape, gimp, wool yarn, elastic
thread, polyester ribbon, etc.
Machine Setting
Stitch Length: 2.5 - 3
Stitch width: 6
Fabric
Sweatshirt Fleece & 1/8*
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) - 4 (RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4-
•Feed ribbon through guides and front hole on foot.
•Fold fabric in half.
•Serge with four thread seam to stabilize seam.
•Use the back hole in foot for cording, fishline, etc.
3/16' Ribbon
Slide ribbon under foot to needles.
30
Page 33
RIBBING
Your Superlock will finish, trim and allow the material to stretch while retaining its original
shape.
Machine Setting
Stitch Length: 2.5-3
Stitch Width: 6
Fabric
Sweatshirt fleece and ribbing
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) -4-
(RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4-
Serge
•Cut a curved neckline in fabric.
•Fold ribbing in half lengthwise.
•Place ribbing on neckline with raw edges even.
•Serge, stretching ribbing to meet neck edge.
•When attaching ribbing in a circle such as around the neck, serge around
until your stitches overlap one inch. Raise the presser foot and pull your work out, and
31
Page 34
CASING OR HEM FOLD
Try this easy technique for T-shirt hems, elastic and drawstring waistbands or curtain
rod casings.
Serge
•Measure and fold the desired depth for the casing.
•Hold the folded fabric with wrong side facing you.
•Turn the casing underneath so that the fabric now has an *S" shape.
•Serge along the fold with the wrong side up catching both needles into fold of fabric.
32
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