Page 1
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WHITE
Call Toll Free
800-331-3164
www.whitesewina.com
MODEL 1634
Page 2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
NAME OF MAIN COMPONENTS.................................................................................................. 4.5
SETTONG UP YOUR MACHINE
The position of thread pole..................................................................................................6
Cone holders........................................................................................................................5
Spool caps...........................................................................................................................g
Connecting the foot control..................................................................................................7
Controlling sewing speed.....................................................................................................7
Safety switch........................................................................................................................7
Attaching the waste catcher................................................................................................ 8
ACCESSORIES...........................................................................................................................’.'.',',',8
USING THE MACHINE..............................................................................................................'.Z^.^9
Hand wheel..........................................................................................................................9
Front cover...........................................................................................................................9
Free arm.............................................................................................................................. 9
LOOPER THREADING.................................................................................................................... 10
NEEDLE THREADING....................................................................................................
TRIAL SEWING.................................................................................................................................'l2
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS.............................................................................................13-14
Adjusting the needle thread tensions
Adjusting the looper thread tensions..................................................................................14
MACHINE ADJUSTMENT CHART.................................................................................................. 15
CHANGING THE THREAD.............................................................................................................. 16
BUILT-IN POCKET HANDLE....................................................................................................'''.Z'...'..'' 16
ADJUSTMENT OF STITICH LENGTH.............................................................................................17
Stitch length setting.............................................................................................................I7
CUTTING WIDTH.......................................................................................................................'’^','.'l8
The proper cutting width.....................................................................................................18
Adjust to a wider cutting width............................................................................................18
Adjust to a narrower cutting width......................................................................................18
CHANGING THE NEEDLE.........................................................................................................IZZZ”!.! 19
REPLACING THE BULB..........................................................................................................Il.Z'.Z'...'. 19
REPLACING THE CUTTERS....................................................................................................ZZZZ^”! 20
THREE THREAD NARROW AND WIDE OVERLOOK STITCH.....................................................21
FREE ARM SEWING....................................................................................................................... 22
CONVERTIBLE PRESSER FOOT...................................................................................................22
ROLLED AND NARROW EDGE................................................................................................ 23-24
Rolled edge
Narrow edge.......................................................................................................................23
Rolled hemming..................................................................................................................24
Narrow hemming............................................................................................................... 24
DIFFERENTIAL FEED..........................................................................................................ZZ725-26
Differential feed mechanism...............................................................................................25
Adjusting the differential feed.............................................................................................25
Wavy knits & Gathering......................................................................................................26
Stretching to prevent puckering.........................................................................................26
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE........................................................................................................27
CLEANING AND LUBRICATING......................................................................................................28
SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE.......................................................................................................28
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ZZZZZ'ZeS
14
Page 3
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed,
including the following:
Read all instructions before using
(this sewing machine)
DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:
An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this
appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.
WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or
injury to persons:
Operate sewing machine only when mounted in sewing machine table, case, and the like.
See the installation instructions.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is
used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only
attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working
properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the
appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings
of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and
loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is
being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing
machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Unplug the sewing machine when making any adjustments in tbe needle area, such as
threading needle, changing needle, changing presser foot, etc.
15. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers,
lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the
instruction manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Page 4
INTRODUCTION
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING OUR OVERLOOK MACHINE
This overlook machine can stitch dependable seams on all kinds of fabric, both light and heavy,
including cotton, wool, rayon, tricot, jersey, and knits.
You do not need a special table for this portable machine.
We suggest that you read this instruction manual carefully before you start to operate the machine.
FOR YOUR SAFETY
1. Keep your eyes on the needles when operating the overlook machine. Do not touch the
handwheel, the cutter or the needles when the machine is running.
2. Turn off the power switch, and pull out the plug from electric socket in the following cases:
>k When you have finished your sewing.
* When you leave the serger temporarily.
* When replacing the parts.
=k When cleaning and adjusting the machine.
BEFORE YOU USE
1. Wipe dust and oil off the machine to avoid any stains on the sewing materials.
2. Test sew by using the same sewing materials you intend to sew.
3. Read this instruction manual thoroughly before replacing the cutters and the needles. Follow the
instructions for correct replacements and adjustments.
7 -
Page 5
TABLE OF CONTENTS
NAME OF MAIN COMPONENTS................................................................................................... 4 c
SETTONG UP YOUR MACHINE................................................................................................. 6-8
The position of thread pole.....................................................
Cone holders
Spool caps.................................................................. ..........................................................g
Connecting the foot control............................................................
Controlling sewing speed
Safety switch
Attaching the waste catcher
ACCESSORIES.......................................... ........................................................................................
USING THE MACHINE..................................................................................................................... 9
Handwheel......................................................................................................................... g
Front cover......................................................................................................................... g
Free arm............................................................................................................................ g
LOOPER THREADING
NEEDLE THREADING................................. ....................................................................................
TRIAL SEWING........................................................................................................................... - il
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Adjusting the needle thread tensions
Adjusting the looper thread tensions................................................................................. 14
MACHINE ADJUSTMENT CHART.................................................................................................. c
CHANGING THE THREAD............................................................................................................. .g
BUILT-IN POCKET HANDLE
ADJUSTMENT OF STITICH LENGTH............................................................................................ 17
Stitch length setting
CUTTING WIDTH........................................................................................................................ I L
The proper cutting width.................................................................................................... .|g
Adjust to a wider cutting width........................................................................................... .|g
Adjust to a narrower cutting width
CHANGING THE NEEDLE.............................................................................................................. .q
REPLACING THE BULB
REPLACING THE CUTTERS......................................................................................................... 20
THREE THREAD NARROW AND WIDE OVERLOOK STITCH 01
FREE ARM SEWING...................................................................................................................... 22
CONVERTIBLE PRESSER FOOT.................................................................................................. o2
ROLLED AND NARROW EDGE............. ................................
Rolled edge
Narrow edge..................................................................................................................... 23
Rolled hemming............................................................................................................... 24
Narrow hemming
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Differential feed mechanism.............................................................................................. 25
Adjusting the differential feed............................................................................................ 25
Wavy knits & Gathering.................................................................................................... 26
Stretching to prevent puckering....................................................................................... 26
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE...................................................................................................... 27
CLEANING AND LUBRICATING.................................................................................................... 28
SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE..................................................................................................... 28
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Page 6
NAME OF MAIN COMPONEIS
1. Thread pole
2. Lower looper thread tension dial
3. Spool pin
4. Spool holder
5. Handwheel
6. Base
7. Machine socket
8. Power switch
9. Front cover
10. Support bed
11. Free arm
12. Needle plate
13. Left needle thread tension dial
14. Right needle thread tension dial
15. Upper looper thread tension dial
16. Thread guide
17. Thread guide plate
-4,
Page 7
1. Upper looper
2. Lower looper
3. Free arm release lever
4. Free arm
5. Lower knife
6. Cutting width adjustment knob
7. Presser foot
8. Upper knife
Page 8
SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE
Set your Overlook machine on a sturdy flat
surface.
[ THE POSITION OF THREAD POLE ]
Pull up thread pole to its highest point before
TuTr^the^thread pole so the thread guides
come right above the spool pins.
[ CONE HOLDERS
Both industrial cones and domestic type thread
spools can be used on this machine.
For large diameter industrial cones use the
cone holders with the large end at the top^
For small diameter cones, use the same cone
holders with the small end at the top.
[ SPOOL CAPS ]
When using domestic type thread spools
remove the spool holders and place spool
caps over the thread spools.
Page 9
[ CONNECTING THE FOOT CONTROL ]
Push foot control plug into the machine socket and then into main socket.
Turn on the power switch. This power switch controls both the machine power and sewing light.
«•This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade widerthan the other). To reduce the risk of electric
shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way, if the plug does not fit fully in the
outlet,’ reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet.
Do not modify the plug in any way.
[ CONTROLLING SEWING SPEED ]
The foot control regulates the sewing speed.
The sewing speed can be adjusted by
increasing or decreasing the pressure on the
foot control.
[ SAFETY SWITCH ]
This machine is equipped with a micro safety
switch.
The machine is automatically cut off form the
electricity supply if either the free arm
or front cover is open.
Close both free arm and front cover before
you start sewing.
Page 10
[ ATTACHING THE WASTE CATCHER ]
The waste catcher catches the cut-off fabric as
you sew, keeping your working area clean.
Place the waste catcher between the machine
and table.
ACCESSORIES
-8
Page 11
USING THE MACHINE
[HAND WHEEL]
Always turn handwheel toward you, i.e. the
same direction as on a household sewing
machine.
[ FRONT COVER ]
To open front cover, slide the hollow to the
right as far as it will go then pull front cover
toward you.
The front cover won't close while the free arm
is open.
[FREE ARM]
Open the free arm for threading.
Open the front cover first.
While pushing the release lever, push the free
arm down ward with your left hand.
Page 12
LOOPER THREADING
Correct threading is important otherwise uneven stitches or thread breakage may result.
A convenient threading chart is placed on the front panel inside the front cover.
In addition, each thread guide is colored for
threading indication.
To help in threading, tweezers can be found in
the accessory box.
Threading must be carried out in the following
sequence.
1. FIRST
2. SECOND
3. THIRD
4. FINALLY
1. Open the front cover and free arm.
2. Turn the handwheel toward you until, the
looper comes to best position for threading.
3. Pass the upper looper thread and lower
looper thread as illustrated.
Important: The thread must lie correctly
between the two discs inside the tension
dials.
4. Pull out the thread end about 10 cm (4")
long from the looper eyes. Raise the presser
foot and place threads under it, then lower
the presser foot.
Upper looper thread Lower looper thread
.........
....
.........
.....
Upper looper
Lower looper
Right needle
Left needle
10-
Lower looper
Upper looper
Page 13
NEEDLE THREADING
5. Turn the handwheel toward you until
needles are fully raised.
6. Pass the right and left needle threads as
illustrated.
Important: The thread must lie correctly
between the two discs inside the tension
dials.
Pass through the needle eyes from front to
back as illustrated.
7. Pull out the thread end about 10 cm (4")
long from the needle eyes. Raise the
presserfoot and place threads under it,
then lower the presser foot.
Page 14
TRIAL SEWING
When the overlook has been threaded for the
first time or re-threaded because of thread
breakage during sewing, start sewing in the
following manner.
Holding the end of threads between your left
finger tips, turn the handwheel slowly toward
you two or three times and check the thread
chain.
Place fabric for trial sewing under the presser
foot and start sewing slowly.
The fabric will be automatically fed.
Guide the fabric as you serge.
When work is finished, continue sewing to
form about 5 cm (2") long thread chain from
the end of fabric.
Cut the threads with a scissor.
Page 15
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Thread tensions will vary according to the type and thickness of both thread and fabric.
Adjust the thread tension of the machine accordingly while checking the seam.
Thread tension: Turn dial toward smaller numbers, tension becomes loose.
Turn dial toward larger numbers, tension becomes tight.
B: Right needle thread
tension dial
C: Upper looper thread
tension dial
Correct thread tension
Left needle thread
Right needle thread
6 mm (0.24”)
Lower looper thread
Upper looper thread
- 13 ■
Page 16
It is necessary to adjust the thread tension for the seams shown below.
[ ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS ]
The left needle thread tension is too loose. The right needle thread tension is too loose.
Back side
Front side
Tighten the left needle thread tension.
[ ADJUSTING THE LOOPER THREAD TENSIONS ]
The lower looper thread is tight and/or
the upper looper thread is loose.
Tighten the right needle thread tension.
The upper looper thread is tight and/or
the lower looper thread is loose.
Front side
CM
Loosen the lower looper thread tension
and/or tighten the upper looper thread
tension.
Loosen the upper looper thread tension
and/or tighten the lower looper thread
tension.
- 14-
Page 17
MACHINE ADJUSTMENT CHART
The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another.
The required tensions depend upon stiffness and thickness of fabric, thread size and type
If necessary, readjust referring to the chart below.
I
- 15
Page 18
CHANGING THE THREAD (TYING ON)
It is simple to change the thread in the following
manner.
Cut the thread above the spool pin, and knot
ends of old and new threads together.
Set the tension dials to "O" and raise the
presser foot.
Pull the other end of thread until knots come
under the presser foot. For needle threads, pull
the other ends of threads until knots come to
needle eyes and cut the threads at the both
sides of the knots. Then re-thread the needles.
BUILT-IN POCKET HANDLE
The Built in pocket handle is a convenient way
to carry your machine.
Pocket handle
16-
Page 19
ADJUSTMENT OF STITCH LENGTH
There are nine setting adjustments which can be made from 1.0 to 5.0 mm.
Most overlook work is done with a basic stitch length setting of 2.5-3.5 mm.
Stitch length
adjustment knob {Inner dial)
[ STITCH LENGTH SETTING
Stitches
Regular seaming 2.0 - 5.0 mm
3.0 mm (Standard Setting)
Narrow seaming
Rolled edging 1.0 - 2.0 mm
Picot edging 3.0 - 4.0 mm
1.0 - 2.0 mm
Stitch length
17-
Page 20
CUTTING WIDTH
The proper cutting width differs with the type of fabric. Check the seams each time, and adjust the
cutting width as follows.
1. Turn the handwheel toward you until the needles are at the lowest position.
2. Open the front cover and free arm. . ^ f mas
3. Turn the cutting width adjustment knob until the looper threads lie along the edge of the fabric.
Adjust to a narrower cutting width if the fabric edges curl when sewing. Turn the cutting width
AdijsUo a wider cutting width if the thread loops off the edge of the fabric. Turn the cutting width
adjustment knob to the left.
Needle plate
THE PROPER CUTTING WIDTH ]
[ ADJUST TO A WIDER CUTTING WIDTH ]
Cutting width
adjustment knob
[ ADJUST TO A NARROWER CUTTING WIDTH ]
stitch curling
edge of fabric
Page 21
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
Turn the power switch to "OFF" before
changing the needles.
Do not use any needle which is bent or blunt.
1. Turn the handwheel toward you until the
needles are fully raised.
2. Open the front cover and lower the presser
foot.
3. Using the hexagon wrench key from the
accessory box, loosen the needle clamp
screws and remove the needles. Upper left
screw for left needle and lower right screw
for right needle.
4. Insert the new needle with the flat side to the
back into the needle clamp, making sure it
is inserted as far up as possible. Tighten the
needle clamp screw firmly.
When the needles are set correctly, the left
needle is slightly higher than the right one.
If needles are not correctly inserted, skipped
stitches will result.
This machine is equipped with needle systems
H.A*1 (Needle are household type).
Machine front
REPLACING THE BULB
Turn the power switch to "OFF" before replacing
the bulb.
1. Take the hole cap off by needle.
2. Loosen the screw until it is taken apart.
3. Pull the lamp cover off from the low part.
4. Push and twist and then remove the old
bulb.
5. Insert the new bulb and twist to its position.
Important:
This machine is designed to use 15 watt bulb.
The bulb is available from your local dealer.
Page 22
REPLACING THE CUTTERS
Turn the power switch to "OFF" before replacing the cutter blades.
The lower cutter is made of special material and does not usually need to be replaced. However,
should it become damaged, it can be replaced by your local dealer.
To replace the upper cutter when it becomes dull:
1. Open the front cover and turn the handwheel toward you until the needles are in the lowest
position.
2. Using the screwdriver from the accessory box, loosen the upper cutter set screw and remove the
upper cuter.
3. Replace the new upper cutter and slightly tighten the upper cutter set screw.
4. Adjust the position of upper cutter so the edge of the upper cutter overlaps 0.5-1.0mm from the
edge of lower cutter as shown below.
5. Tighten the upper cutter set screw firmly and close the front cover.
Upper cutter set screw
-20-
Page 23
THREE THREAD NARROW AND WIDE OVERLOOK STITCH
This machine is a 3/4 thread convertible
overlock.
Remove either the right or left needle. Your
machine is now ready for use as a 3-thread
overlook.
Refer to "CHANGING THE NEEDLE"
4 mm (0.16”)
Front side
Using the needle on the right only, the stitch
width is 4 mm (0.16").
6 mm (0.24”
Using the needle on the left only, the stitch
width is 6 mm (0.24").
Front side
21
Page 24
FREE ARM SEWING
Remove the support bed as illustrated which easily converts from a flat bed to free arm.
Convenient for sevi/ing pant legs, sleeves and cuffs, etc.
CONVERTIBLE PRESSER FOOT
The special presser foot, is set for normal overlook
with the letter N adjacent to the vertical screw at front
of presser foot. When you need to sew a rolled edge,
simply loosen the large screw slightly and move the
finger that protrudes from left side of foot forward until
is stops, then re-tighten the screw. The letter R will
now be adjacent to screw.
■22 -
Page 25
ROLLED AND NARROW EDGE
To carry out either of the above sewing tasks proceed as follows.
(1) Refer to page 22 for special foot position setting.
(2) Turn the handwheel toward you until needles are fully raised.
(3t Open front cover and remover left needle. See page 19. , ^
(4) Set stitch length between 1.0-2.0 mm. See page 17. Also ensure that differential control is set at
'N' position.
(5) Adjust stitch width, as shown on page 18.
(6) If not already threaded re-thread the machine.
(7) Place fabric under presser foot and start to sew.
Always test the stitch and tension settings on scrap fabric before sewing on
When either Rolled or Narrow hemming, we recommend you change the threads as shown on
ALWAYS remember to re-set the special foot for normal serging after you have finished your rolled
edge procedure.
[ ROLLED EDGE ]
With a rolled edge the loops formed by the
upper looper thread should be pulled to the
underside of the fabric. This is done by setting
the tensions as shown on page 24.
[ NARROW EDGE ]
For seams on sheer or lightweight fabrics, set
tensions as shown on page 24 for a balanced
tension.
Page 26
Important: If necessary,
adjust the stitch length and cutting width.
Threads
Fabrics
• Georgette
■ Lawn
■ Crepe-de-chine
■ Silk
• Broadcloth
■ Rayon
• Voile
etc.
Needle thread
Upper looper
thread
Lower looper
thread
Rolled hemming
• Spun polyester
No. 50 - 80
■ Polyester continuous
No. 50 - 80
■ Spun polyester
■ Wooly-nylon
• Rayon thread
■ Spun polyester
No. 50 - 80
■ Polyester continuous
No. 5 0- 80
Narrow hemming
• Spun polyester
No. 50 - 80
• Polyester continuous
No. 50 - 80
• Wooly-nylon
■ Spun polyester
No. 50 - 80
• Polyester continuous
No. 50 - 80
• Spun polyester
No. 50 - 80
• Polyester continuous
No.50 - 80
[ ROLLED HEMMING ]
[ NARROW HEMMING ]
24-
Page 27
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
The differential feed prevents wavy seams in knitted fabrics and also movement between the layers
of fabric. It also ensures pucker-free seams on lightweight fabrics.
[ DIFFERENTIAL FEED MECHANISM ]
There are two sets of feed teeth, one front and one rear. The two sets of feed teeth move
independently. Differential feed allows the two sets of feed teeth to move at different rates.
c
[ ADJUSTING THE DIFFERENTIAL FEED ]
The differential feed can be adjusted by simply turning the differential feed adjustment knob in the
direction desired. Adjustment of the differential feed can be made while sewing.
Important:
When sewing without differential feed, the adjustment knob for the differential feed should be set on
the "N" position.
c
■25 -
Page 28
[ WAVY KNITS & GATHERING ]
For perfectly flat seams in stretchy knit
garments, the front feed teeth need to feed
faster than the rear feed teeth to prevent
stretching the fabric. To Gather, the front feed
teeth \will also need to feed faster than the rear
feed teeth. By using a long stitch length, (See
page 25 to adjust), your fabric will easily gather.
Set differential feed 2.0.
[ STRETCHING TO PREVENT PUCKERING ]
II=>
To avoid any puckering in seams on lightweight
woven fabrics or smooth nylon, the rear feed
teeth must feed faster than the front feed teeth.
The front feed teeth, therefore, holds the fabric
taut to prevent puckering.
Set the differential feed to .07.
26-
Page 29
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Check items below before calling for service.
Problem
Needles break
Thread breaks
Skipped stitches
Cause
1. Needles are bent, blunt or
points are damaged.
2. Needles not inserted
correctly.
3. You have forcibly pulled the
fabric
1. Threading is incorrect.
2. Thread tension is too tight.
3. Needles not inserted
correctly.
1. Needles are bent, blunt or
points are damaged.
2. Needles not inserted
correctly.
3. Threading is incorrect.
4. Wrong needles used.
Corrective action
1. Replace with new needles.
2. Insert the needles correctly to
tho needle clamp.
3. Guide fabric gently with both
hands.
1. Thread the machine correctly.
2. Reset the thread tension.
3. Insert the needles correctly to
the needle clamp.
1. Replace with new needles.
2. Insert the needles correctly to 19
the needle clamp.
3. Thread the machine correctly. 10 • 11
4. Use correct needles. (HA>«1 or
130/ 705H)
Page
19
19
10 • 11
13 • 14
19
19
19
Stiches are
irregular
Seam puckering
Fabric not
cutting neatly
Fabric edges
curl
1. Thread tension is not
correct.
2. Thread is caught.
1. Thread tension is too tight.
2. Threading is incorrect.
3. Thread is caught.
4. Differential feet not set.
1. Upper cutter is blunt or
wrongly positioned.
1. Too much fabric is within the
stitch.
1. Correct the thread tension.
2. Check threading path of each
thread.
1. Correct the thread tension.
2. Thread the machine correctly.
3. Check threading path of each
thread.
4. Set differential feed to 0.7
1. Replace or adjust the cutter.
1. Re-adjust seam width.
13 • 14
10 • 11
13 • 14
10 • 11
10 • 11
26
20
18
27-
Page 30
CLEANING AND LUBRICATING
To keep your machine running smoothly , it is i
SmThSTefvr^'ittls lubrication as the main components are made of special materials.
Occassionally, lubricate only the points illustrated.
necessary to clean using the brush from the
SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE
Description
Specification
Number of threads
Number of needles
Sewing speed
Stitch width
Stitch length
Lift of presser foot
Needles
Dimentions
4 or 3
2or1
Up to 1500 s.p.m
4 - thread
3 - thread
1 ~ 5 mm
4.5 mm
HA >« 1 No. 11-14
130/ 705H No. 75-90
285
7 kg (approx. 15 lbs.
............
............
mm ( W) X 285 mm (D) x 291 mm (H)
_
6 mm
6 mm or 4 mm
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