How to use
and care Sor your
мЬаЖ?. ^
Parts Indentification
Principle Parts
Accessories ............................................................
Installing Machine Head onto portable case
or cabinet and Connecting Machine . .
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PAGE
4
6
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Selection of Needles and Threads
Needle-Thread-Fabric-Stitching Guide
Changing Needle......................................................................................................................................... iq
Changing Needle Plate ........................................................................................................................... iq
Selection of Presser Foot............................................................................................................................ it
Winding Bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 12
Upper Threading.............................................................................................................. ..................' 13
Threading Bobbin Case............................................................................................................................ 14
Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle ...............................................................................................................14
Selection of Stitch
Stitch Length Control.........................................................................................................
Reverse Button ............................................................................................................
Stitch Width Control................................................................................................................
Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width
Stretch Stitch Control Ring ...........................................................................................................
Stitch Pattern Selector......................................................................................................................
Automatic Reverse Stitch Tuner.................................................. ,0
Controls ..................................
Adjusting Thread Tensions............................................................................................................ig
Adjusting Pressure on Fabric and Feed Dog Height...........................................................19
Sewing Light.......................................................................................................’
Preparing to Sew .....................................................................................................................
Guiding Fabric..................................................................................................
Turning Corners........................................................................................................................! ' ' ! . o-.
Curved Seams.............................................................................................. ii'
Sewing Across Heavy Seams
Removing the Work .
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20
21
21
22
22
22
15
15
16
Straight Stitch
Seams......................................................................................................................................................
Basting/Topstitching.............................................................................................................■ „3
Darning........................................................................................................
Cording/Sewing on Zipper ...........................................................................................................
Quilting.......................................................................................................................................
Zigzag Stitch
Overcasting ..........................................................................................
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25
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Sewing Knits.............................................................................................................................
Sewing on Buttons
With a Thread Shank................................................................................
Satin Stitching........................................................................
Built-in Embroidery and Utility Stitches . . . . ! . . . . . ^ ' ' ' ' '
Twin Needle Sewing................................................ • ■ ■ 27
Freehand Monogramming............................................................................
Applique/Patching
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Lace Application..................................................................................... '.
Sewing Tips
Shaping Dart in Interfacings...........................■ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 3Q
Multiple Zigzag Stitch...........................................................................................
Buttonholes ................................................
Preparation .....................................................................................
Built-In Buttonhole .....................................................................
Corded Buttonhole
Blind Hem Stitch ...................................................................
Straight Stretch Stitch ..................................................................................................................................
Topstitching
Ultra-Stretch Stitch .............................................................................................
Rick-Rack Stretch
Pine-Leaf Stretch ..................................
Special Ultra-Stretches........................................................................................................ 35
Elastic Application
Overlook Application
Oiling Machine
Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle Area . ^ ^
Adjusting Bobbin Winder
Adjusting and Changing Motor Belt .... ...............................................................................fn
Problem and Remedies
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3ENTIFICATI0N
.E PARTS
0 (D (3) (4) 15,
FRONT VIEW
BACK VIEW
® (2| i24)
1. Take-up
2. Pressure Control
3. Top Thread Guides
4. Stitch Pattern Selector
5. Stretch Stitch Control
6. Stitch Width Control
7. Stretch Stitch Pattern
Marking
8. Bobbin Winder
9. Hand Wheel
10. Stitch Length Control
11. Reverse Button
12. Feed Dog Height
Control
13. Needle Plate
14. Presser Foot
15. Feed Dog
16. Slide Plate
17. Check Spring
18. Light Switch
19. Face Plate
20. Tension Dial
21. Needle Clamp
22. Spool Pins
23. Automatic Reverse
Stitch Tuner
Allways at its highest position when beginning or end
ing sewing.
For regulating the pressure on fabric.
For leading thread to Tension Control for sewing.
For selecting the stitch pattern and buttonholing steps.
For changing ordinary stitch to triple back-and forth
stitch (stretch stitch).
For setting stitch width.
Cro^-reference by number between- ordinary stitch
patterns and stretch stitch patterns performed with
stretch stitch control ring at "SS".
For winding thread on bobbin.
For the control of the up and down movement of the
needle.
For selecting stitch length between no feeding and max
to about 6 stitches per inch.
For easy backtacking to lock thread ends by pushing the
button.
For regulating feed dog height for various materials and
types of sewing.
With guide lines for sewing accuracy.
For holding fabric when sewing.
Diamond point to move fabric accurately.
For opening an access to bobbin and bobbin case.
For automatic precise adjustment of flow of upper
thread.
For turning on or off the light inside face cover.
Hinge-open type for replacemerit of light bulb and
oiling.
For regulating the amount of tension on upper thread.
For holding needle in place in the slot of needle bar.
For holding spools, preventing over-spin of spools.
For adjustments for the buttonhole reverse stitch den
sity and the evenness df the back-and-forth stitch lengths
of stretch stitch.
24. Bobbin Winder
Tension Disc
25. Presser Foot Lever
26. Thread Cutter
27. Thumb Screw
28. Head Hinge Holes
29. Clutch-nut
For providing proper tension on thread when bobbin
winding.
For lifting or lowering presser bar and presser foot.
For convenience to cut both upper and lower threads
after sewing.
For tightening presser foot in place on presser bar.
For installation of machine head onto portable case or
cabinet.
For the releasing movement of the needle bar in order
to wind bobbin.
ACCESSORIES
Your new sewing machine comes equipped with the following set of accessories to
make your sewing easier.
METAL BOBBINS
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For your spare bob
bins wound with
various color threads.
A PACK OF NEEDLES
For spares. Regular
assortment of sizes
#11, #14 and #16
regular needles and
size #11 ball point
needle.
SPOOL CUSHIONS
Place two felt Spool
Cushions on spool
pins to reduce
sound of spool spin
ning.
SCREW DRIVERS
Small one for use on
bobbin thread ten
sion adjustment.
Large one for use on
thumb screw, needle
clamp, etc.
For straight stitch
ing on very sheer
soft or very light
weight stretchy ma
terials where extra
control is needed.
BUTTON FOOT
For holding buttons
in place for stitch
ing.
BUTTONHOLE FOOT
Use for buttonhol
ing. Do not use
when normal sew
ing.
quilting guide
Helps make parallel
rows of stitching.
OILER
Containing machine
oil, use as oiler.
CLOTH GUIDE WITH SCREW
Aid in creating
straight seams.
CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
For stitching very
close to the edge
of a cord or zipper.
TWIN NEEDLE
For twin parallel
sewing.
INSTALLING MACHINE HEAD ONTO PORTABLE CASE
OR CABINET-AND CONNECTING MACHINE
Loosen both head hinge set screws
on the back of machine bed plate
until head hinge holes are clear.
Tilt head hinge pins up and back
as far as they will go.
Carefully slip machine head ontp
hinges — making sure the head
hinge pins are inserted as far as
they can go into head hinge holes.
Allow machine head to rest in its
tilted back position.
Tighten both set screws securely
with screwdriver.
Plug electrical leads from machine
head into sockets located inside
cabinet or portable case. Cord
identified with "motor" tag must
be plugged into socket marked
"motor". Untagged cord goes to
“light" socket.
Insert plug into a wall outlet of
110-115 Volts.
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SELECTION OF NEEDLES AND THREADS
The needle ^nd thread you choose depends
upon the fabric you are stitching. The correct
selection of needle and thread is very important
to avoid damaging the fabrics of light weight,
or tightly woven fabrics, and to prevent skip
ped stitches when sewing on very sheer or
stretchy fabrics or needle breakage when stitch
ing heavy or stiff fabrics. For best results, sewing
machine needles should be replaced when they
become even slightly dull or bent or at the com
pletion of every other garment.
A regular needle is suggested for use with
woven fabrics. Needles, style 15 x 1, of the
range in size from 8 to 20 are used on this
machine. The lower number indicates the finer
needle. The most commonly used sizes are 11
and 14.
A ball point needle is recommended for use
with tricots, jerseys, lingeries and power nets.
Unlike sharp pointed needles, which pierce
fibers of knit fabrics destroying elasticity,the
ball point needle slips between fibers without
damage to fabric and skipped stitches.
A wedge point needle is recommended for use
with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge
cutting point pierces leather more easily than
ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in
more satisfactory stitching.
REGULAR
SHARP NEEDLE
BALL POINT
NEEDLE
FLAT
Although it is recommended to use a ball point
needle for knit fabrics, when sewing on very
stretchy fabrics of knits, the placement of a thin
paper below the fabric and the use of a finer
needle are suggested to prevent skip stitches.
Always use the same type and size of thread
in both needle and bobbin. Use good
quality thread without knots for best stitches.
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WEDGE POINT
NEEDLE
NEEDLE - THREAD - FABRIC - STITCHING GUIDE
Extremely heavy
tarpaulin, sacking,
canvas, duck, etc.
Heavy upholstery
fabric, ticking,
denim, leatherette.
Medium heavy drapery
fabric, velveteen,
aiiting, felt, terry, etc.
Medium broadcloth,
percale, gingham, linen,
chintz, taffeta, sheer
wool, shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn,
dimity, crepe,
handkerchief linen.
Plastic film, etc.
Very sheer chiffon,
batiste, lace, organdy,
nylon net, marquisette, etc.
14
11
18
16
18
6
to
8
8
to
10
10
to
12
12
to
14
14
to
16
(plastic film)
8 to 10
16
to
20
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
50
50
60
O
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CHANGING NEEDLE
Always change the needle after every
other garment especially when sewing on
polyester and nylon fabrics which dull
needles much faster. When needles are
dull or bent, they damage both your
fabric and the machine. A general rule
when placing sewing machine needles is
that the flat side of the needle is placed
to the back of the machine, when the
bobbin is put in from the front. If the
needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches
will not form.
To change the needle
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel
toward you.
2. Loosen needle clamp to remove the
needle.
3. Place needle (flat side to the back and
long groova to thefront)in the needle
clamp and push it upward as far as it
will go, tighten needle clamp.
4. After changing the needle, make one
complete Uirn of the hand wheel by
hand to be sure the needle is clearing
the needle plate.
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CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE
Although an all-purpose, utility needle
plate is fixed on your machine, for
straight sewing on fine fabric or soft or
very stretchy fabric, you may want to use
the straight stitch needle plate together
with the straight stitch foot, both of
which are included in your accessory box.
To change the needle plate, simply slide
the slide plate as far forward as possible.
Remove the two screws holding the
plate in place. Lift the needle plate and
replace.
The needle plate is removed for cleaning
the lint which may pile up between
needle plate and feed dogs.
STRAIGHT STITCH
NEEDLE PLATE
UTILITY
NEEDLE PLATE
SELECTION OF PRESSER FOOT
Straight Stitch Foot
This has only a narrow hole to accom
modate only straight stitching. It may be
used on sheer or soft fabrics for more
control. When using this foot, the Stitch
Width should be 0 to avoid hittinq^th^
joot and breaking the needleT ~
Buttonhole Foot
This foot has a groove underneath, to
allow the narrow satin stitch or button
hole to form evenly. However, if skipstitch occurs on sheer fabrics with this
foot, it may be necessary to use thin
paper underneath.
Cording or Zipper Foot, and Button Foot
Use for sewing very close to the edge of a
cord or zipper, and sewing on buttons
respectively.
CHANGING FOOT
Use the large screwdriver to loosen thumb
^rew. Turn the screw backward until the
foot becomes loose. Then, lift up on
presser foot lever until it is in its highest
position in order to remove the foot.
R^eplace with desired foot and tighten
thumb screw securely.
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WINDING BOBBIN
Disengage the hand wheel (1) from
the stitching mechanism by turning
the clutch nut (2) toward you or
counter-clockwise.
Place a spool of thread on one of
the spool pins and lead thread
through the rear Top Thread Guide
(3) after winding around Bobbin
Winder Tension Disc.
Run the end of thread through a
hole in the bobbin edge and place
bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder
(4) fitting the notch on bobbin over
small spring on spindle.
Push bobbin winder latch (4), and
hold the thread end loosely then
start machine slowly, and bobbin
winder latch will be released to
stop winding when bobbin is full.
Turn clutch nut away from you
until sewing mechanism is again
engaged so that needle moves when
you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to
start the winding and cut other
thread end. Then remove bobbin
from bobbin winder.
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UPPER THREADING
1. Turn the hand wheel toward
you to raise the take-up lever
to its highest position.
2. Place a spool of thread on the
spool pin.
3. Lead the thread through the
top thread guides.
4. Down and between the tension
discs, from right to left.
5. Draw the thread up through the
check-spring and with a slight
tug into the hook.
6. Up behind the front thread
guard and through the eye of
take-up lever from right to left.
7. Lead thread down through the
thread guide at the bottom of
the threading slot after drawing
thread behind the front thread
guard then, through the needle
bar thread guide.
8. Thread the needle FROM
FRONT TO BACK, drawing it
through about 3 or 4 inches.
Hold the end of the upper
thread loosely and turn the hand
wheel toward you until the
needle goes all the way down
end comes back up. A thread
loop will form over the upper
thread which then can be pulled
out straight. Place both thread
ends under presser foot and
draw toward the back of the
machine, leaving both threads
three or four inches long.
In case of twin needle sewing, place
two spools of thread, matching or
contrasting in color, one on each
spool pin, lead both threads
through top thread guides, bring
threads down and pass one thread
between the back discs and the
other between the front discs, then
treat both thread as one until
threading each thread through each
needle eye of twin needle.
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THREADING BOBBIN CASE
. Hold bobbin case be
tween thumb and fore
finger of left hand, so
that the slot in the edge
of the bobbin case is on
top. Take the bobbin
between thumb and fore
finger of right hand so
that the thread on top
leads from left to right
Insert bobbin into bob
bin case, pull the thread
into the slot of the
bobbin case and draw it
under tension spring and
into the fork-shaped
opening of the spring.
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PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE
Raise needle bar to its highest position, and slide plate
forward. Hold the bobbin case latch (D) between the
thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three
inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin
case. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of
the shuttle body (C). Be sure the bobbin case finger (E)
is opposite the shuttle race notch (A). Press the bobbin
case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible until the latch
catches on the center post of the shuttle. Then release
the bobbin case latch (D). Press the bobbin case again
after the latch has been released to make sure the bobbin
case is locked securely in place. Close the slide plate.
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SELECTION OF STITCH:
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
'“»-d feeding
•ra“nd'te'ti tar “"'™l
stitch is available At 5 is thp°i tittonhole, the shortest
pet inch on ord'r,a" f.taif '“"¿f, ' ^ stitches
set at any desired spot ta ween 0 a„d 5 T "" “'
length exrpnt ^ ^ ® for a variety of
forth stitching) the roVtro^ sh^'^ri h^ back-andthe control to 'the right to h“
lengthen the stitch. ^
poihter abo»e"the conToh Pv 'he
fta’h «chi'„7t taerrotal«"* 7“"
Stretch stitch length on trouble-free
stretch stitlh c<^^troi «"‘th
control at''5' the stitch length
reverse button
-d-'« at the beginning or end of a seam
sews in reverse at approximately the sLe stitch fe machine
machine will sew backward as long as the button is hX in.' The
Cross reference table between numeral on th ,
P«-- mch ' the control and number of actual stitches
NumersI on the control
Number of stitches per inch (approx.
No Feeding 3q
0 1
25
2
3
4
15
8
15
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STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
This control controls the side sewing of the needle for various width of stitches. At 0,
the straight stitch line results in ordinary sewing. Also, the widest special stitch
patterns as per those shown on the stitch pattern selector are made with this control at
5.
The narrow special stitch patterns including buttonhole are made with this control at
the less number, and with this control at 0, only straight sewing is made regardless the
selection of stitch patterns.
With the control at any other point than "0", ordinary straight stitch varies to zigzag
stitches. At 1, the needle takes a harrow swing resulting in narrow column of stitching
and, at 5, the needle takes a large swing respiting in a wide column of stitches.
In case of twin needle sewing, this control
should be set less than Number 3, other
wise needle hits needle plate.
RELATING STITCH LENGTH TO
STITCH WIDTH
When the stitch width control is set at
one particular width (such as 5j, the
stitch length control will now control how
close those stitches come together. At
length 0, the fabric does not move,
resulting in a bar of stitches formed one
on top of the other, as is used in button
sewing. At red bar mark or near 0, the
feed pulls the fabric through slowly,
resulting in a dense column of stitches
called a satin stitch. At length 5, a very
long open zigzag results.
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STRETCH STITCH CONTROL RING
Selection between ordinary stitching and triple auto
matic back-and-forth stitching called stretch stitch is
made by the stretch stitch control ring. With the
control ring to the left at mark "M", ordinary sewing
is performed. With the control ring to the left at the
mark "SS", your machine automatically performs the
stretch stitch with the repetition of two forward and
one backward stitch combination.
A reinforced seam of stretch stitch that will stretch
considerably more than the fabric used is the most
wanted feature in a sewing machine today.
Its uses are almost unlimited and the more you use
your machine the more it will become apparent to you.
When stretch stitching, the stitch length control should
be always set at 5.
STITCH PATTERN SELECTOR
In addition to ordinary straight and zigzag stitches, three consecutive buttonholing-
step stitches, 2 embroidery stitches, blind stitch and blind stretch stitch, 8 different
kinds of utility forward stitches, 9 special stretch stitches and straight and Rick-Rack
stretches as shown on the Stretch Stitch Patterns Marking can be selected by this
selector. This selector can be turned only to the right, except for it's buttonhole step
selection range where the selector can be turned to both directions.
For regular stitch patterns, set the pattern selector at the selected pattern position
and the stretch stitch control ring at "M".
The regular stitch patterns selected by the selector are turned to the stretch stitch
patterns shown on Stretch Stitch Pattern Marking under same cross-reference number
patterns on the selector, simply by setting stretch stitch control ring
All regular stitches and blind stretch stitch are made by forward sewing at an op
tional forward stitch length selected by
stitch length control. All stretch stitches
are made at the fixed stretch stitch length
with the stitch length control at 5 and the
stretch control ring at "SS". To balance
forward and reverse stitch length in stretch
stitching and buttonholding, adjust the
Automatic Reverse Stitch Tuner. With the
selector at buttonhole step (2-4 ), your
machine does not feed fabric for barrack
ing the buttonhole ends and, with it at
buttonhole step (3), it feeds fabric in
reverse to sew the right buttonhole edge
with the preset reverse satin stitch length
automatically, regardless the setting of
stitch length control.
17
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AUTOMATIC REVERSE STITCH TUNER
Your buttonhole and stretch stitches are preset and tested to sew on most materials
certain fine materials may require a slight adjustment to balance forward and reverst
stitch lengths of buttonhole and stretch stitches.
We have provided a special tuner for this purpose on the back of the arm. Shifting this
tuner to the right j+) to increase the density of reverse stitch of buttonhole and shorter
reverse stitch of stretch and to the left { -) to expand the density of reverse stitch o1
buttonhole and stretch stitch.
CONTROLS:
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper thread
tension with the presser foot down,
as the tension is released when it is
raised. To increase the tension on
the upper thread, turn tension
control to the right. To decrease,
turn to the left. Before adjusting
the tension be sure that the
machine is threaded properly.
It is seldom required to adjust
the bobbin thread tension,
however, when necessary to change
bobbin thread tension, turn small
screw on side of the bobbin case
clockwise to tighten , counterclock
wise to loosen.
When both tensions are properly
balanced, a perfect stitch will be
formed with both threads interlock
ing in fabric (A).
When the upper tension is too tight,
the bobbin thread is pulled up over
the upper thread which is lying fiat
on the fabric (B).
When the upper tension is too
loose, the upper thread forms loops
over the bobbin thread lying flat on
the fabric (C).
When the upper and bobbin thread
tensions are balanced but fabric is
puckered in sewing direction on
sheer fabrics, both tensions are too
tight. Loosen both tensions evenly.
it is recommended to adjust the
tension balance under medium
stitch length, in case of satin
stitching for buttonholes and em
broidery slightly loosen the upper
thread tension.
18
1
ADJUSTING PRESSURE ON FABRIC AND FEED DOG HEIGHT
• GENERAL SEWING
Usually for normal sewing, except for sewing on
very heavy and bulky fabrics and very stretchy
knit fabrics, the center pin (B) of the pressure
control be at its lowest position, also, the feed
dog height control be turned to the right, "High"
position, except for sewing on very sheer fabrics.
For below exceptional fabrics, refer to table.
To reduce half the pressure, press the outer ring
(A) of the pressure control, then press the center
pm (B) down again to halfway. To reduce half
the feed dog height, turn the feed dog height
control to LOW" position.
Ordinary fabric of less elasticity
Heavy and bulky fabrics
Medium weight fabrics
Light weight soft fabrics
Very stretchy fabrics and knits:
Heavy and bulky ones
Medium weight ones
Light weight and sheer ones
Half
Full
Full
Full
Half
Half
High
High
Low
High
High
Low
• MENDING AND DARNING:
dog height cohtrol T ® ''"S «1- Toth the feed
heed,eo,ate. To tetoto Sd iS"h'Tghr“ lito'S ^
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SEWING LIGHT
The sewing light is located in face cover directly over the
needle so as to better illuminate the stitching area.
Turn the light on and off by pushing the switch
on face cover.
To replace bulb, turn light off and open face cover to
the left. Unscrew bulb as you do a conventional light
bulb. Place new bulb in socket and screw in place.
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I SECTIOW
PREPARING TO SEW
Have take-up lever at highest position before starting to sew. Pinning may be used
as a time saver instead of hand basting. It is possible to sew over pins when placed at
right angles to the edge of fabric with the pin head at the raw edge, but for best
results It IS recommended that the pins be removed as you approach the presser foot
bewing over pins can result in damaged needles. '
Place material and threads under presser foot and lower the presser foot. Lower the
needle by turning hand wheel by hand to check if the needle will pierce the stitching
The sew^ You are now ready to begin sewing. Press the speed control
If nro!!, ^ machine running is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount
of pressure exerted on the control. Never run machine without material under
|Ji Cobv^r TOOT.
GUIDING FABRIC
The scale is etched with every 1/8 inch distance measured from the center of needle
plate. Let the edge of fabric follow the line selected for the seam, and let your eyes
follow the etched line you selected for the seam, not the needle, during sewing To
help you guide the fabric, place cloth guide attachment securing it by the extra
ncTd bedplate. Cloth guide and extra thumb screw are
included m your accessory box. ^ v aic
°n°d caisLTt to break material as this may deflect the needle
TURNtNG CORNERS
fabric, then lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
Lift the presser foot, turn the
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CURVED SEAMS
Use slightly shorter stitch length
than that of the rest of the seams.
On the part where elasticity is
required on the seam, sew by
stretch stitch. The cloth guide may
be used on angle as shown.
SEWING ACROSS HEAVY
SEAMS
When approaching heavy seam,
hold the fabric upward on an angle
so that the heavy seam falls under
the front curved sled of presser
foot.
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REMOVING THE WORK
Be sure to stop the machine when
the thread take-up lever or needle
is at the highest position.
Now raise the presser foot and draw
the fabric back and to the left
and pass the threads over the
thread cutter.
Pull down slightly, holding thread
in both hands, so as not to bend the
needle .
Leave the ends of threads under
the presser foot.
22
SfcCTIOM V
Pattern;^; (I)
Length: 2-3
Width; 0
Feed Dog; High
Pressure: Full
Foot; Straight Stitch or
All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
Pattern: (D
Length :4_5
Width: 0
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: Straight Stitch
Stretch Control: M
STRAIGHT STITCH:
SEAMS
The normal stitch length for most fabrics
should depend on the fabric and area of
usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require
onger stitches, and lighter weight fabrics
require shorter stitches. For curved seams
lennth R ® stitch
control
BASTIIMG/TOPSTITCHING
uspfid^ / ® longer stitch is
useful for temporary seams prior to
fitting. Basting stitches also may be used
when gathering in fullness.
sTitih '°tig straight stitch. For a bolder
stitch, tvvo threads of the same type can
or ifii 14
or ifa). A heavier thread such as
^ttonhole twist may be used for
topstitching, but be sure to use a larger
needle {size 16 or 18 ) ^
'tery effectively
Pattern:^!
Length:0
Width: 0
Feed Dog; Down
Pressure; 0
Foot: All Purpose, or
Stretch Control; IVI
darning
Worn spots or small holes can be darned
very easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is
optional depending on the fabric. Лпе
thread IS recommended so that the fabric
and thread will blend together.
darned. Hold the threads to start then
move the fabric slowly backwards and
forwards while running the machine very
wnl hP Z Professional results
ill be attained by moving the fabric in
a figure eight pattern while sewing After
b ling m the area lengthwise, reweave
wdh crosswise stitches in the same
CORDING/SEWING IN ZIPPER
• INSERT CORDING
(Aj Fold bias strip of fabric over
cord. Loosen the adjusting
screw on the back of cording/
zipper foot and set the foot to
the left of needle.
(B) Sandwich the welting between
two layers of fabric with right
sides together. Stitch a second
time with cording/zipper foot
to the right of needle so that
the needle stitches close to the
cord through all thicknesses.
• ZIPPERS
Swing the foot to left or right of
the needle as needed so that the
foot sews very close to zipper teeth.
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QUILTING
Parallel straight lines are easy to
sew with the quilting guide. To
attach the guide, loosen thumb
screw and slip the U-shaped holder
of the guide between presser foot
and thumb screw. Tighten the
thumb screw securely. Adjust the
curved bar to the desired distance
from the needle. Sew the first line
of stitching as desired, then, for the
succeeding rows let the guide
follow along the previous stitch
line. A straight stitch, zigzag, or any
other stitch may be used.
24
Pattern: (()
Length: 1^3
Width: 5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
ZIGZAG STITCH:
OVERCASTING
Place the edge of the material urxierneath
the opening of the sewing foot and guide
raw edge along the center slot of the foot
a lowing stitch to form half on and half
on the fabric.
The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser
choice for most fabrics.
See page 30.
Pattern; <1 (|)
Length: 1-3
Width: 1
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
Pattern:^,' (|)
Length; 0
Width: 2—5
Feed Dog: Down
Pressure; Full
Foot; Button Foot
Stretch Control: M
SEWING KNITS
of firm knits for added strength After
sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny
zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the
seam will give when stretched
Generally on knits, however, try the
yearns
SEWING ON BUTTON
Place the button so that the holes of
button are positioned in same distance
from the center straight stitch needle
position respectively.
Turn hand wheel by hand until needle
point lowers close to the face of button.
Turn stitch width control until the needle
comes just above a hole of button
Turn hand wheel slowly by hand to check
If the needle comes just above another
hole of button after clearing the first
ole of button. If necessary, readjust
the button position below button foot
and repeat above checking and adjust
ment of stitch width.
Note; Be sure the needle clears the holes
of the button by moving the hand wheel
by hand before running the machine
fast.
Usual 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for
securing a button in place.
To lock the threads, set the stitch width
at 0 readjust the button position to that
a hole of button is just below the needle
and take a few stitches in the hole. '
See
25
SEWING ON BUTTON
WITH A THREAD SHANK
Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should
have a thread shank to make them stand
away from the fabric. To form a thread
shank, sew over a pin or rounded tooth
pick, as shown on page 25.
After stitching the button to the tabric,
remove work from under the presser foot
leaving threads about six inches from
fabric. Remove pin or toothpick. Pull the
threads to back of button and form a
shank between button and fabric by
winding threads tightly around the attach
ing stitches. Pull threads to back of the
fabric and tie thread ends securely.
SATIN STITCHING
This is useful for decoration such as
tapering, manual designed embroidery,
monogramming and applique.
The satin stitch, which is really just a
very close zigzag stitch, is obtained by
setting the stitch length as near to "0"
as possible without stopping the feeding
action or at the red bar marked "button
I
I
hole". The setting will vary for different
fabrics. It may be desirable to loosen the
upper tension slightly to cause the
threads to lock underneath in order to
make the top surface look especially
smooth. For lightweight fabrics, place a
paper underneath the fabric for best
results.
Pattern; < 1 (I)
Length: % or "Buttonhole"
Width: 1-5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot; All Purpose
Stretch Control: IVI
26
BUILT-IN EMBROIDERY
and utility stitches
The most popular two kinds of utility
embroidery stitch patterns can be made
by simply selecting with stitch pattern
selector, in addition to 10 kinds of utility
forward stitches and those complex stitch
patterns of back-and-forth feeding action
with stretch stitch control as "SS ".
TWIN NEEDLE SEWING
Attractive parallel straight stitch effects
and decorative zigzag patterns can be
easily made by sewing with the twin-
needle, and they are very effective for
various kinds of garment finish sewing
such as top stitching, border sewing, etc.
Except buttonhole stitches, all built-in
special stitch patterns can be applied with
the twin needle sewing.
In case of twin needle sewing, the stitch
width control should be at less number
than 3 or white number.
The use of color-matched or contrasted
two threads will result in a more attrac
tive finish.
Pattern: Other than buttonhole stitches
Length; 1—5
Width: Less than 3
Foot: All-purpose
27
FREEHAND MONOGRAMMING
For giving garments and linens a per
sonalized touch, first transfer the design
to the right side of the fabric. An
embroidery hoop is recommended es
pecially for soft fabrics and toweling.
In order to monogram, you must move
the fabric slowly and run the machine
rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by
moving the paper under a stationary pen.
Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag
falls close together like a satin stitch, but
be careful that the stitches do not pile up.
When guiding from side to side, move
fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy
pile up of thread.
Practice by forming loops. Once this is
accomplished any letter is easy.
Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven
interfacing under the fabric may make
guiding the fabric easier. The paper or
interfacing may be torn or cut away at
the completion of the monogram.When
monogramming towels, plastic film plac
ed on the top will help cover loops and
make the monogram smooth. Pull or cut
away remaining plastic film when finish
ed.
Pattern: ' '
Length:0
Width: 1-5
Feed Dog: Down
Pressure: 0
Foot: All Purpose or
Darning Spring of
White special
attachment
Stretch Control: M
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APPLIQUE/PATCHING
Applying decorative shapes of fabric
scraps to household articles and clothing
is a very interesting way of trimming an
otherwise plain article. First, trace the
design on fabric to be appliqued or
patched,then pin or baste it securely in
place on garment. With a small straight
stitch or narrow zigzag, sew around the
transferred design or patch.
After excess fabric is trimmed away, sew
around the applique or patch with a satin
stitch or short length zigzag stitch. For a
smooth curve, stop frequently at the
inside edge of the curve to pivot the
fabric slightly. Corners look much better
when the point is stitched by pivoting
rather than just turned.
As with all decorative stitches, paper may
be used to give more body to the fabric
when stitching and can be torn away
when the applique is completed.
Step 1
Pattern:^.' ID
Length: 1
Width: 0-2
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
Step 2
Pattern; '''
Length: %—
Width: 2-5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
gathering over a cord
Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch
often breaks while pulling in fullness A
small zigzag across a cord such as crochet
thread or carpet thread, gives a much
stronger cord for gathering fullness into
fabrics^ Once the gathers have been
stitched in place, the cord can be pulled
out in order to eliminate bulk.
Pattern:^;
Length; 2 '
Width: 2-3
Feed Dog: High
Pressure; Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control; M
LACE APPLICATION
Attaching laces or trims adds a special
touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or
baste lace in place easing or mitering
corners where neccesssry.
A straight edged lace or braid has a
convenient line to follow when sewing.
When using a scalloped edged lace follow
the design of the lace for an almost
invisible application.
Pattern:^/ ID
Length: ’A~1
Width; 1—3
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
FLUTTER HEM
edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter
edge. Hemming m this manner is just like
overcashng an edge, but the fabric is
stretched in back and in front of the
fte fabric equally, making sure the nee^dle
goes over the edge. When you stop to
Pattern:^/ Ш
Length; %—Я
Width: 4—5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot; All Purpose
Stretch Control: IM
29
SEWING TIPS
When a dainty hair line finish is
particularly desirable for the inside seams
of sheer collars, facings, and yokes, seam
allowance that would ordinarily show
through is eliminated by following the
seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch.
Trim seam allowance close to line of
stitching. Turn and press.
Pattern: <I (I)
Length: 54—1
Width: ’/2-2
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
SHAPING DARTS IN
INTERFACINGS
Cut interfacing down center between dart
lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line
from point to wide end of dart. Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.
Pattern:^! (|)
Length: ’/2—1
Width: ’/2-1
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
I
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MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCH
The multiple zigzag stitch can be used for
hundreds of various kinds of sewing applications,
such as replacing worn blanket bindings for both
a decorative and durable finish, overcasting an
edge to prevent fraying, applying elastic waist
bands to skirts and dresses, sewing a zigzag stitch
on soft or sheer material preventing puckering,
etc.
Just sew like ordinary zigzag stitching.
30
„ (Cl
Pattern:
Stitch Length: 4—5
Width; 3-5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure; Full
Foot: All Puroose
Stretch Control: IVI
BUTTONHOLES
b'lTOntolei“”'"9
PREPARATION
SHrirri”'""»'“'"
Horizontal bu,°,o„Mer‘taulde°f^^^^^
O acad"“' L'tlr“ bottonho":!”"
Sea o'rtrirTi"'"' -
OF GARMENT
OF GARMENT
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scran of thp
M- oe sure to use the buttonhole foot.
31
BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLE
This buttonhole eliminates the needle for pivoting the
fabric. It is used most often on light and medium woven
fabric. The narrowest buttonhole is made with stitch
width control at 3 and the widest one is done with it
at 5. The stitch length control should be at "BUTTON^
HOLE” or near 0 not to without stop feeding action.
With stitch width at your desired position between 3
and 5, a buttonhole can be made by simply turning
stitch pattern selector from buttonhole position 1 to
those 2, 3 and 4 in sequence on the stitch pattern
selector panel.
1. Set stitch pattern selector at buttonhole (1). Lower
needle into the mark at the top left end of button
hole. Lower buttonhole foot and sew on the left side
of buttonhole until you reach the bottom end of
■ buttonhole.
2. Turn pattern selector to buttonhole (2-4) and take
just a few stitch to bartack the bottom end of button
hole.
3. With needle up, turn the pattern selector to the
buttonhole (3) to sew on the right side of buttonhole.
Your machine is preset to balance both forward and
reverse stitches on most materials, but certain fine
materials may require a slight adjustment to balance
of them. If the stitch density in this step is rougher
than of the left side of buttonhole, shift automatic
reverse stitch tuner to the right {+) and if it is heavier
than left side one, shift it to the left (—).
I
I
■
4. With the needle out of the cloth, turn again to the
buttonhole (4) position and complete the buttonhole
by bartacking just a few stitch on the top end of
buttonhole.
5. To lock the stitch, make sure the needle is out of the
fabric and set the pattern selector at ordinary sewing
position, the stitch width control at 0, and feed dog
height down. Then take a few stitches.
6. To prevent cutting through the bartack insert a
straight pin through the bartack and cut buttonhole
open.
Pattern: |]-D-[]-0
Length: Buttonhole
Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: High-Dovun
Pressure: Full
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
Stretch Stitch: IW
32
Pattern: (II
Length: Buttonhole
Width: 5-2-2-5-2-0
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
Stretch Control: M
For best buttonhole finish it ic e, ,
»r„i:r;rr:,roVr;"F-'°-
stitch density hes, suited to your t-b“
CORDED BUTTONHOLE
e°:e1tem“r“ “ ™ised buttonhole I, is
in wS
makes cutting difficult O^n k?t
»e.rnrou”l^n-:
£:no,e.:“r.„r?o\n?s:LrSeed
r-p^r sr:f
the zigzag stitch covers the cord^'^ ^
excei cor7c?'°" buttonhole snip the
fabrics Tor knZT '-°ven
cords tn th garments, always pull the
33
BLIND HEM STITCH
The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem
finish that is almost invisible on garments,
drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with
straight or slightly curved hems. With a little
practice it will be a very quick and easy hem
application and the hem will never need
repairing.
Procedure:
(1 (Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner,
such as overcast, 1/4 inch stitched under
pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step 1 j
(2) Fold hem up desired length. Baste or pin 1/2
inch from upper edge. Press in place. (Step 2)
(3) Fold hem back toward right side of fabric
leaving about 1/4 inch extended. (Step 3)
(4) Guide the fold of the fabric into the center
cut of the presser foot so that the zigzag bite
of the stitch comes Just slightly to the left of
the center cut of the presser foot. The straight
or narrow zigzag stitches should be formed on
the single thickness of fabric, and the zigzag
wide bite should catch just barely into the
fold of the fabric at the left.
(BjWhen stitching is completed, remove fabric
from machine and turn to right side. Press
completed hem.
When hemming an A-line skirt, place a machine
basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At
an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the
seams. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling on
I
I
basting thread. Press with steam, then apply hem
tape. Baste or pin hem 1/2" from taped edge,
then continue into step 3.
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
Pattern: (H) or .
Length: 2-3
Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
34
STEP 5
STEP 4
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH:
This stitch may be used on knits and wovens in areas of
h shtch. It is excellent for curved
stress ntn . endure a lot of
for « stretching, this stitch may be used
ordina^^ing. ^ - for
Tdfusfbrn ^'¡'‘^hing is not same
adjust by automatic reverse stitch tuner In case of Innno'
.‘ntrr Si ,17 fIT
un^rb 'tht'k'"'"
fatric ?re-fho rmLfb T" from
■ e tit garment before using this stitch
• TOPSTITCHING
ULTRA-STRETCH STITCH:
Pattern: (|)
Length: 5
Width: 0
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: SS
bathingTuh knte, andto«oTknh?7t'iaitVe'X^^^
nits. It has the greatest strength and elasticity of all
• rick-rack stretch
is most common utility ultrastretch of a triple '
than regulaTzigzin more elasticity ;
• pine-leaf stretch
This is the combined stitch of straight stretch and
,ngte sideward „„ches, ussfu heLing
knits and stretchy fabrics.
• SPECIAL ULTRA-STRETCH STITCHES
These are very useful ultra-stretch stitches caL
Pa^rnw' l Stretch
attern Marking for various purpose.
Pattern: ^
Length: 5 ’
Width: 2-5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All purpose
Stretch Control: SS
Pattern: ^ (Jj or (h:
Length: 5 ^
Width: 2-5
Feed Dog: High _
Pressure: Full-Half
Foot: All purpose
Stretch Control: SS
Pattern:
Special stitches
Length: 5
Width; 2-5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure; Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: SS
ill
35
APPLICATIONS:
I
I
On most knits, an about 3/16 inch finished
seam, such as pine-leaf or special ultra
stretch stitches are more desirable than a
5/8 inch opened seam allowance. These
stitches can create a neater, more
professional finish, eliminate bulky
seams, prevent curling, permit the gar
ment to "give" under stress, and at the
same time they cut down on the amount
of work involved in making a garment. If
ever in doubt as to which of those
stitches to use, test them on the particular
fabric in question and choose according
to their performance.
Its uses are almost unlimited and the
more you use your machine the more it
will become apparent to you
ELASTIC APPLICATION
Fold fabric over the elastic and stitch
elastic and fabric at one time, using
smocking, pine-leaf, or other ultra-stretch
stitch. The double layer of fabric next to
the elastic should be stitched with the
one-side of ultra-stretch seam and the
elastic should be caught by another side.
Note;
The stitch length control should
be always at number 5 when
stretch stitching, otherwise the
machine will be noisy and the
material may feed in reverse only
or with uneven forward and reverse
stitch length.
36
OVERLOOK APPLICATION
(B)
(A)
Special ultra-stretch stitches are also
usable for overlock stitching on
woven and knit fabrics.
(A) Place the raw edge of the fabric under the
presser foot so that as the needle swings to
the right, it comes down at the raw edge.
This will result in an enclosed
allowance.
(B)
The seam allowances may be trimmed to 1/4
inch either before or after sewing. If
Rimming before sewing, proceed as above.
Otherwise, sew the seam with the raw edge
of the fabric on the etched guide line 1/2"
(Any time you use the full width of a
pyticular stitch, you should readjust the raw
edge of the fabric 1/8 inch to the left )
Afterward, trim the excess fabric near the
stitching. This method is actually easier than
the overedge method for fabrics that curl.
Note: On soft, loose knits, the fabric may
seem to wave or ripple. If this occurs, reduce
the pressure on fabric.
very
both
seam
37
OILING MACHINE
Use only a good sewing machine
oil, do not use any common
household oils.
Your machine should be oiled
occasionally to keep it operating
smoothly. How often depends on
the amount of sewing you do.
Once a year oil your machine
thoroughly as indicated by the
arrows on illustrations.
Avoid o\/er oiling.
I
I
38
CLEANING AND OILING
THE SHUTTLE AREA
The stitch forming mechanism occasional
ly becomes clogged with loose threads
and lint. This will interfere with the
efficient operation of the machine.
Cleaning and removal of the lint will
safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed
as follows:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle
reaches its highest position. Tilt head
back on its hinges.
2.
Remove bobbin case (A).
3.
Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps
(f| outward and remove the shuttle
race cover (C) and the shuttle body
(E) and the lint cleaner (D).
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and
shuttle race cover by removing all
threads, lint, etc.
When the cleaning has been completed
tie assembly:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.
2. Place lint cleaner (D) to shuttle driver and shuttle body (E)
against shuttle driver and adjust into position.
3.
Replace shuttle race cover (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock
into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (f|, making certain the clamps have
been snapped securely Into position.
Put bobbin (B) into bobbin case (A).
:a)
(B)
(C) (D) (E)
proceed as follows to replace the shut-
race (F)
39
adjusting bobbin winder
It mav be sometime required to adjust
the level of rear top thread guide to
conform with the level of bobbin winder,
especially, when thread winds unevenly
on bobbin.
If the thread winds unevenly on bobbin
as shown (AS, loosen set screw of rear top
thread guide and move the thread guide
up slightly. If the thread winds as shown
(B), move the thread guide down slightly.
15~o
Q
Co
O
(B)
adjusting and changing
MOTOR BELT
Following are the instructions for adjust
ing and changing the motor belt:
Remove four screws holding rear
(1
cover by tipping it out at the bottorn
and pivoting around the hand wheel
away from the front of the machine.
To adjust motor belt, loosen screws
(2S
(A)and move bracket (B)up to loosen
belt and down to tighten.
(3) To remove motor belt:
• Remove top cover.
I
I
I
• Loosen clutch (C).
• Loosen screws (A) and move
bracket (B) to its highest posi-
• Slip belt off motor pulley and
then over hand wheel.
• Replace motor belt by slipping it
over hand wheel and then over
motor pulley.
• Adjust as noted under No. 2.
40
PROBLEM AND REMEDIES
If Machine
Binds
Skipping
Stitches
Irregular
Stitches
Uneven
Stitches
Upper Thread
Breaking
Material
Pu ckering
Machine noisy
& material will
not feed in
stretch stitching.
Thread or lint in race
way.
Bent needle.
Needle placed incor
rectly in clamp.
Too fine a needle for
thread being used.
Too stretchy fabric.
Upper thread tension
too loose.
Improper threading.
Bobbin not wound
evenly.
Pulling or holding
material.
Not enough tension
on upper thread.
Poor quality thread.
Needle too fine for
thread being used.
Improperly threaded.
Too much tension.
Starting with take-up
in incorrect position.
Improper setting of
needle.
Bent or eye of needle
too sharp.
Bent or blunt needle.
Tensions too tight.
Dull needle.
Stitch length too long.
Stitch length control
is set at other than
Number 5.
Clean and oil machine the shuttle
area. (See page 39.)
Replace to new needle. (See page 10.)
Place needle correctly. (See page 10.)
Replace needle or thread to conform
each other. (See page 9.)
Place a paper beneath fabric, or use
Ball Point needle.
Tighten upper tension.
See threading instruction, page 13.
Adjust bobbin winder. (See page40 )
Avoid pulling or holding material. Just
guide it.
Increase tension.
Try different thread.
See needle and thread chart, page 9.
Refer to threading instructions, see
page 13, and rethread machine.
Loosen upper thread tension.
(See page 18.)
Always start sewing with take-up lever
in highest position.
Refer to needle setting instruction, see
page 10. '
Try a new needle.
Discard all blunt or bent needles and
replace with new.
See tension adjustment, page 18.
Change needle.
Reduce stitch length.
Set stitch length control at Number 5
Improper
feeding
Lint in feed dog.
Remove needle plate and clean lint from
feed dog.
41
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