You are now the owner or a new zigzag sewing maciiine, the most
versatile machine of its type you can possess. Buttonholes, monogramming,
darning, overcasting and creative embroidery are done with ease and speed.
To aid you in obtaining the greatest performance from your manhina
this book on its care and use has been written for you. Read the instruc
tions carefully as a thorough understanding will reward you with many
hours of trouble-free creative sewing.
Time-saving attachments such as rufflers, binders, edgestitchers and
cording feet, to complement the accessories furnished are available from
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your dealer.
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INDEX
Parts warranty
Service policy
Features and parts
Needle and tJiread chart ........................................ 7
Setting the needle
Winding the bobbin................................................8-9
Threading bobbin case ............................................. 9
Heavy upholstery
fabric, ticking,
denim, leatherette
Medium heavy drapery
1
fabric, velveteen,
suiting, felt, terry, etc.
Medium broadcloth, percale,
gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta,
sheer wool, shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn,
dimity, crepe,
handkerchief linen,
plastic film, etc.
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Very sheer chiffon,
batiste, lace, organdy,
ninon, net, marquisette, etc.
FABRIC - STITCHING GUIDE
Machine
Needle Stitches
No. Per Inch
6
4
to
8
8
3
to
10
10
2
to
12
12
1
to
14
14
0
to
16
(Plastic him)
8 to 10
16
00
to
20
Cotton
Thread
24
to
30
30
to
40
40
to
60
60
to
80
80
to
100
100
to
150
Mercerized
Thread
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
SO
SO
so
Silk
or
Nylon
A
A
A
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SETTING THE NEEDLE
Rg. 4
^ See Fig. 3. Raisa the needle bar A to its highest
point, turning wheel toward you by hand.
Then loosen the needle clamp screw B and the
needle can be inserted into clamp C. Place needle
(flat side to right) in the needle clamp and push it
upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp
hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely
with a screw driver.
iiiter clianging the needle make one
complete revolution of the balance wheel by
hand to be sure the needle is in the correct
position.
Flat surface
ox uesdie
shank
1/
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Disengage the hand wheel (5,
mechanism by turning the clutch
wise.
Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins, lead thread
through ^the upper thread guides on the arm, and down through
the tension disc (10, (Fig. 5) at the base of the machine. Run
end of thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place
bobbin B on spindle of bobbin winder 7, fitting the notch on
bobbin over small pin on spindle. Push bobbin winder pulley
against hand wheel. Hold thread end loosely and start machine
slowly.
Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch away
from you until sewing mechanism is again engaged so that
needle moves when you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to start the winding.
(Fig. 4) from the stitching
toward you or counterclock-
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THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Step 1 (illustrated in. Fig. 6). Hold
bobbin case between thumb and fore
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finger of left band, so that the slot in
tbe edge of the bobbin case is on top.
Take tbe bobbin between thumb and
forefinger of right hand so that the
thread on top leads from left to right.
Step 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case,
pull the thread into the slot of the bob
bin case as shown in Fig. 7, and draw
it under the tension spring and into the
fork-shaped opening of the spring as
shown in Fig. 8.
Fig. 5
SLOT
3
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 3
lo
PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE
i'o cover plate left of the aeedle.
\ bee 16, Fig. 1) Hold the bobbin case latch, (D:,
1 xg. 9, between the thumb and forefinger of the left
hand, with at least three inches of thread running
from the top the bobbin case to the right. Insert
and center the bobbin case on the stud of the
shutJe body, {Qj. Be sure the bobbin case finger,
IS opposite the shuttle race notch, (A). Press
the boobin case (B) into the shuttle as far as possibie until latch, cauches on the center post of the
shuttle.
THEN release the bobbin case latch, fDh
pess bobbin case again after latch has been re
leased to^ make sure the bobbin case is locked
securely in place. Close the cover plate.
THREAD
GUIDES
"HOOK
CHECK
'J SPRING
Pig. 10
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UPPER THREADING
n
1. Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the
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take-up lever to its highest position.
2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
3. Lead the thread through the upper arm thread
guides.
4. Run the thread through the thread guide bar to
the tension discs, then around and between
them from right to left.
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5. Draw the thread up through the check spring
and with a slight tug into the hook. (See
insert, Fig. 10)
6. P«s a. ar«d under as b.r .„d up arough ae ,7, of as ake-up lever from right to
?om
Pig. 11
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InToturef te "'d T "T " g Hold ae
rrb, “Tb : wUob a,n
draw toward ae book of ae m.otane, leaving boa areade aree or four inobes long
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12
STRAIGHT STITCHING
For straighi sewing on fine fabric or very soft
material, you may want_to use the straight stitch presser
straight stitch needle plate which are in-
SeSlf slots^“"^^ accessory box. Both have narrow
, Foot and Plate. To change presser
tighten screw securely.
Replace with hinged narrow foot and
lo°sea thumb screw 18 and remove
wrong side up. Hold needle plate with right hanA a-nA
cover plate with left. (Fig. 12)
oSlia?iov^“^Tr'^' P“ rieedle plate
out oi groove. Tiieix slide lower pin out.
needie plate into groove on cover plate.
needle plate screws.
will break in striking the foot or plate.
press down on lock B. Turn dial as far to the left as
possible. Pointer will then be on the zero mark.
I ^attached. Turn assembly
f r plate down slightly and pull
P^®*f straight stitch plate by revers-
procedure. Slip pin on lower side of
f under hp and into groove on cover
°u machine and fasten securely with
.
^^^® ^®* *R® stitch width at 0. or the needle
rim of zigzag dial A, Fig. 13, and
remove screws
C
Pig. 13
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^ SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
Tie length of the stitch is regulated by the dial, shown in
Fig. 14. Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 5 is the longest, but
the dial may be set at any spot between the markings for a
variety of lengths. Turn the dial to the right to lengthen and
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to the left to shorten the stitch. The number of stitch length
you choose is indicated by the triangular pointer.
STITCH LENGTH CHART (APPROXIMATE)
Figures on indicator012
Number of stitches per inch
No Feeding
1
SEWING IN REVERSE
When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the
beginning or end of a seam, press in the button R, Fig. 13,
as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as
the button is held in.
ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down,
as the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To
increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 15)
to the right, or clockwise. To decrease, turn to the left. The
higher the number on the dial the tighter the tension. Before
adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded
properly.
When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small
screw (Fig. 16) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten,
counterclockwise to loosen.
3 45
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Pig. M
Fig. 15
14
When the upper and under tensions are properly
balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both
threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 17-Ä).
When the upper tension is too tight, the lower
thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is
lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 17-B).
When the upper tension is too loose the upper
thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on
the fabric (Fig. 17-C).
ADJUSTING PRESSURE
AND FEEDING OF FABRIC
Fig. 16
GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and zigzag stitchirg, the pressure bar cap
or darner release,^ Fig. 18, is at its lowest position and the drop feed buttons are both set at
the same height (Press up button all the way down and it will spring back to the correct
height) Fig. 19.
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B m
.......
darner.
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Rg. 17
Fig. 18
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SEWING THIN OR UGHT WEIGHT FABRICS.
When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on
thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about
halfway down. Release all the way by pressing fhe snap lock
A, Fig. 20, a=d then press cap B down again to kaliw.y spot
Lower the feed slightly by pressing the down button fFig. 19.
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to the red line. '
DARNING AND MONOGRAMMING. In order to move the
fabric freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain
kinds of free-iiand embroidery, release the pressure cap B com
pletely by pressing down on the snap lock. A, Fig. 20. Press
down button (Fig. 19) all the way down which drops the feed
well below the needle plate. To return feed to normal, press
the up button all the way down.
Fb- 20
PREPARING TO SEW
Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding
as ^this may deflect the needle and cause it to break.
InEVER run machine without material under presser foot.
Place matenal and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser foot Turn
the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest point. You are now ready to
tw tHtaS th ^ the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary to touch the hand
wheel to Starr the machine. You merely press the control. The speed of the machine is re
gulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control
15
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Kg. 21-A
P!g. 21-3
REMOVING THE WORK
Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar are at the
highest position.
Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left, Fig. 21-A and B, and
pass the threads over the thread cutter.
Pull down slightly, holding thread in both hands, so as not to bend the needle. "
Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot.
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
Be sure zigzag presser foot and, zigzag needle plate are in place.
TEe satin stitcE, Fig. 22, wiucE is really just a very
short zigzag stitch, and the basis for most embroidery,
obtained by setting the stitch length as near the 0 as pos
sible without stopping the feeding action.
' Adjusting the stitch width.
^ To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag stitching, set zigzag width stop (Fig. 13) to
O the chosen stitch width number. Should you wish to move freely between any two widths,
such as 2Vo and 5, in doing free-hand embroidery or buttonholes.
The 2V2 width will be produced until the zigzag knob (Fig. 13) is moved to the 5 width.
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Embroidery patterns.
With the machine set for a short stitch length, dif
ferent designs can be made by turning the stitch width
or zigzag knob back and forth between 0 and 5 or any
other combination of widths. Try setting the stop at 1
and 5, various other numbers.
Set a rhythm for yourself and then proceed. After
a while you will become quite skillful, varying your
designs by the speed of the machine, stitch lengh and
width and the manipulation of the lever.
3
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Rg. 21
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SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
A. Sew a few stitches at 5 width, then allow knob
to spring back to 0 for a short period. Count, if necessry, to establish a rhythm.
B. Set stop at 2 then move knob slowly between niimbers 2 and 5 rather fast.
C. Set stop at 1. Gradually move knob from 1 to 5, allowing it to snap back quickly.
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Set zigzag stitch width stop at 4, stitch length at lU. Do a few zigzag stitches,
^ rop feed for 3 or 4 stitches, then raise it again. By operating the feed knob rhythmically it
IS not necessary to count stitches.
f 5, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left of
stitches Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. Continue until flower design is
complete. Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in center of
EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP
It is easy to follow a stamped design or to
work free hand when embroidering or monogramming. (See Fig. 23). Release the pressure from
the foot by pressing down the snap lock on the
automatic darner. Push the drop feed button
down all the way.
Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and
place under the needle after removing the presser
foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer
and lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate
the machine at a rather high speed while moving
the hoop slowly with both hands. Work carefully and be sure to keep fingers out of the path
of the needle. ^
^ Should you encounter skip stitches the fabric is not stretched tight enough or a darning
spring IS needed (see attachments available from your dealer illustrated in the back of this
book, j
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MAKING BUTTONHOLES
First, mark tire beginning and end of the buttonhole on fabric
with a basting line or tailor's chalk. Make one on scrap fabric
(following directions below) to be sure machine adjustments are
correct.
1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot (Item 8 Fig. 37)
which is grooved deeply underneath to prevent piling up of
thread. (See Fig. 24).
2. Set stitch width at 2% and stitch length knob near 0.
3. Lower needle carefully into the mark on fabric indicating the
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beginning of buttonhole. Stitch to the mark for the end of the
buttonhole, step 1, Fig. 24A, stopping machine with needle in Fig. 24
fabric at right side of stitching.
4. Lift the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot,
turn the fabric end for end.
5. Lower presser foot and turn hand wheel just enough
to raise needle out of fabric.
6. Push drop feed button all the way down and turn
zigzag stitch width knob as far to the right as possible
and hold. Take five or six stitches to form bar tack
step 2 Fig. 24A.
7. Raise needle out of fabric, allow stitch width knob to ,
spring back to stop and return feed to up position. Fig.24A
8. Stitch second side of buttonhole, step 3.
9. Stitch bar tack by repeating S and 6 above (step 4).
10. Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches to fasten bar threads and prevent
ravelling. Cut the buttonhole opening with the seam ripper, being careful not to cut the
stitching.
If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place tarlatian or paper, under
fabric which can be torn away after stitching. ' ''
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SEWING ON BUTTONS
F^‘'l7)i’T,TFS°2r'‘ *“*
2, PusB drop feed button "DOWN” all tie way.
tbe button so that
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4. Move zigzag stitch width stop until the needle comes down
exactly over the right hand hole in the button,
ium «and wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle
“dl? S°S=Msir;° “Odl»- correct
5.
SiloSS ^tlf stitches,
stopping with the needle in the left hole.
w?rfth°i+*n® prevent ravelling, set the stitch
dtt at 0, and take a few stitches in the same hole. If you
When needle goes into the center of each hole, run the
wsh you may place a rounded toothpick over the button
^e^een the two holes, and sew button to fabric in regular
fomfngTsh^Vl'lie?“''
above method to sew on buttons with four holes,
snaps, etc. If a four hole button is to be sewn
Now^fift Tr! iox the two hole button. '
sligitly and move fabric to permit
t? 5?e fibric wiXS""^ Boles. Hooks, snaps, etc., are sewn
hn^s “ ^ procedure as for sewing two hole
“ig. 26
Fig. 27
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HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES
Seam gauge or clotb. guide (Item 6 Fig. 37) use tde seam gauge as a guide for straight
seams and even rows of stitching along edges of fabric. Fasten gauge with ассотрапзппд screw
(Item 11 Fig. 37) in threaded hole in bed of machine (Fig. 28) adjust to seam width desired.
NARROW rlEMMER. (Item 10 Fig. 37). With the needle at its highest position, replace
regular presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 29). For a plain narrow hem, make a 1 8* inch
double fold for about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each end of the two inches fold, slip
2
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underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of hemmer, lowering presser bar lifter,
I
gently pull ends of thread as you start stitching. ' '
Vi
Guide material slightly to right, and it will automatically take a double turn through scroll.
^ . LACE TRIMMED HEM. To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace
in the slot next to needle (Fig. 30). Sew hem as above, guiding lace under needle and hem
into scroll.
Fig. 28
29
21
22
Pig. 31
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE
HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE
Use only a good, sewing machine oil d.o not use
any common household oils.
Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep
it operating smoothly-how often depends on the amount
of sewing you do.
clogged with, loose threads and lint. This will interfere
with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning
and removal of the lint will sedeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows :
X. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its
highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges.
2.
Remove bobbin case.
3.
Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward
and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and the
shuttle body (D).
4.
Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race
cover by removing all threads, lint, etc.
23
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When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as
follows to replace the shuttle assembly:
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its
highest position.
2. Place shuttle body, (D), in race against shuttle driver and adjust into position.
P“ edg® i^to notch, and lock into position
with shuttle race cover clamps, (B), making certain the clamps have been snapoed securely
into position. ^
4. Put bobbin into bobbin case.
5. Put the bobbin case into the huttle, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover.
Fig. 35
24
TKOUBLE CHART
Trouble
If Maciiines
Binds
Probable Cause
Thread or lint in
raceway
Correction
-With take-up lever in highest position, tilt
head back on hinges and remove bobbin
and rethread machine
Loosen tension on upper thread by turning
thread tension knob to lower number.
Always start sewing with take up lever in
highest position
Refer to needle setting instruction see page No. 8
Try a new needle
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Material
puckering
j Bent or blunt needle ^
■ Tensions too tight
i Dull needle •
; Stitch length too ,
long
Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace
with new
See tension adjustment page No. 13 & 14.
Change needle
Reduce stitch length
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ACCESSORIES
1.
Plastic Oiler (Sealed and filled)
i ^ 2.
I' 3.
*’ 4.
1
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9
10
Package of Needles (5)
Large Screw Driver
Small Screw Driver
5.
Qnilter Guide
Cloth Guide
6.
7.
Button Sewing Foot
Buttonhole Foot
8.
9.
Presser Foot for Straight Sewing
Narrow Hemmer
10.
Thumb Screw
11.
12.
Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins)
13.
Bobbins (3)
14.
Needle Plate for Straight Sewing
(graduated)
9
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Tlie following pages show extra time saving attachments
Available from your Dealer.
These attachments will complement the basic acces
sories furnished with your machine.
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When ordering please be sure to state "attachments for
low lift left needle position machine."
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ATTCHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE
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ruffler
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attachment
FOOT
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DARNING
SPRING
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BINDER
7 t//sT7
HEMMERS
CORDING &
ZIPPER FOOT
EDGESTITCHER
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ATTACHMENT FOOT
In order to attach the binder, edgestitcher and the
hemmers, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and
replace it with the attachment foot. Fig. 38.
Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers sliding the
attachment to the left as far as possible and tighten
screw.
The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to
or as far away from the edge as desired. lust move the
attachment to the correct position before tightening the
mounting screw.
p;g. 38
THE EDGESTITCHES
The edgestitcher is used in mak
ing lace insertions, edgings and pip
ing. The slots serve as guides. To
sew lace edging to fabric, place the
material you want on top in slot. Fig.
39, and the other piece in slot 4.
To trim with a wide piping, place
the fabric in slot 4, and the fold of
the piping to the left in slot 3, for a narrow piping, place the fabrio in slot 2 and the folded
edge of the piping to the right in slot 3.
Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a french seam.
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THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING
AND ZIPPER FOOT
33
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This attachment is used to make and
insert covered cording, and to sew in
zippers. Loosen thumb screw to slide
foot to either right or left of needle.
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CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric
over cord. Loosen thumb screw and
set foot so needle is centered in needle
C^Q
hole. Machine baste cord in place
(Fig. 46).
To sew covered cord to material, reset adjustable foot so needle stitches closer to cord,
and on edge of base fabric.
Fig. 46
SEWING IN A ZIPPER
Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters
center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along
edge of foot (Fig. 47). Stitching should be close to
zipper to allow easy opening and closing. Adjust to
sew from either right or left side, whichever is more
convenient.
32
RUFFLER
Fig. 43
Tke ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating.
Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time.
This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use.
Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding nillness to
the bodice of a dress and etc, „
Fig. 44 P'9- ‘‘S
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BINDER
Tiiis attachment folds bias binding, applies it to the
edge of material in one operation. Slots on scroll of
the ■ binder are for corresponding widths of commercial
folded bias binding.
The open mouth of binder scroll is used for
unfolded bias strips cut 15/16 inch wide.
N
Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate
slot. Draw through slot and under binder with strong
pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge. Adjust
by sliding binder to right or left.
Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in
one operation. When two are used, always skip one
size between widths, inserting each in correct size slot.
HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 42)
Cut 15/16 inch bias binding fold in half for a
couple of inches. Cut binding diagonally toward end,
almost to fold. Slip fold into center of binder. Draw
back until cut opens and binding encircles open end
of scroll. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge
adjust if necessary.
FOLDED BINDING Tig. 41)
TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig. 41)
31
F-ig. 4|
42
34
THE SET OF HEMMERS
Before attaching any of the hemmer. Be sure bob
bin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in place,
hold top thread loosely and turn handweel one full
turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp
bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontally
under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will catch
loop and carry upper thread to back of hemmer.
Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, hold
at each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and up over
spoon (Fig. 48). Fold hem in material back of hemmer
fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start stitching.
DARNING SPRING
HOW TO ATTACH
Remove presser foot, unthread needle, place darner
spring, on needle and slip hook up over needle clamp.
PATCHING AND MONOGRAMMING
See Page 18 Fig. 23.
Pig. 48
Draw forward to end of hem and
U/
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