SINGER W8418 User Manual

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.5'
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o^uA-e Automatic ZIGZAG Sewing Machine
INSTRUCTION BOOK
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CONTENTS
Features and Parts ............................................................................................ ^
Sewlight ......................................................................-
Setting the Needle ............................................................................................ ^
Winding the Bobbin
Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle ....................................................................... 6
Upper Thread.................................................................................................... '
Setting the Stitch Length.................................................................................. ^
Sewing in Reverse Adjusting the Tensions Adjusting Pressure and Feeding of fabric
Preparing to Sew.............................................................................................
Removing the Work
Regulating Width of Zig-Zag Stitch............................................................... 12
Automatic Sewing.......................................................................................... 1^
Sewing Designs ............................................................................................. 1^
The Zipper Foot & To Make Cording with Zipper Foot ................................ 15
Embroidering With a Hoop............................................................................ 16
Darning......................................................................................................... 16
Making Buttonholes ...................................................................................... 17
Sewing on Buttons ......................................................................................... 1°
How to Use Accessories ................................................................................ 19
Care and Maintenance of Your Machine ....................................................... 20
Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle
Check Up for Smooth Sewing....................................................................... 22
Needle and Thread Sizes.............................................................................. 23
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°
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Fig. 3
Fig. 4
SeitiH/f tUe ^teedLe
See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar to its highest point, turning
wheel toward you by hand.
Then loosen the needle clamp screw and the needle can be inserted into clamp. Place needle (flat side to right) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely with a screw driver.
Disengage the hand wheel (Fig. 4) from the stitching mecha
nism by turning the clutch toward you or counter-clockwise.
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin, lead thread
through the upper thread guide on the arm, and down through the tension disc (Fig. 5) at the base of the machine. Run end of thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder, fitting the notch on bobbin over small pin on spindle. Push bobbin winder against hand wheel. Hold thread end loosely and start machine slowly.
Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch away
from you until sewing mechanism is again engaged so that
needle moves when you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to start the winding.
Page 5
*JUneadi4Uf. the BaLLin Qaim
& 8 to get a general idea as to how it is done.
Before threading the bobbin case, study Fg. 6, 7
1. Hold the bobbin case with your left hand and put the bobbin into the bobbin case with your right, leav-
. ing about two inches of the thread end unwound
: Fig. 6). As the bobbin is being inserted in the bobbin case, the thread flow, you will note, in clockise (Fig. 6).
2. While holding the bobbin case as before, grasp the thread end with the right hand, guide it into the cross slot (Fig. 7).
3. Then pull it throught under the tension spring of
the bobbin case (Fig. 7) until it enters the delivery
eye (Fig. 8).
Fig. 7
Fig. 5
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Placi^ &oUUh. Qa4.e i4€ SUuUle
1. Raise the presser bar by lifting the presser bar lifter.
2. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the balance wheel toward you.
3. Pull out slide plate (Fig. 9).
4. Hold the bobbin case latch (Fig. 10) between the thumb
and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of
the shuttle body. Be sure the opposite the shuttle race notch, into the shuttle as far as possible the center post of the shuttle.
5. THEN release the bobbin case latch, Press bobbin case again after latch has been released. To make sure the bobbin case is locked securely in place. Close the cover plate.
bobbin case finger is
Press the bobbin case
until latch catches on
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1. Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position. (Fig. 11) ^
2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
3. Lead the thread through the upper arm thread guide.
4. Run the thread down through the thread guide bar to the ten sion discs, then around and between them from right to left.
5. Draw the thread up through the check spring and with a slight tug into the hook. (See insert, Fig. 11)
6. Pass the thread under the bar and up through the eye of the take-up lever from right to left.
7. Lead thread down through the lower thread and then through the
needle bar guide from the back.
8. Thread needle FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, drawing it through about 3 or 4 inches.
Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you until the needle goes all the way down and comes back up. A loop will be formed over the upper thread which then can be pulled out straight. Place both thread ends under the slot of the presser foot and draw toward the back of the machine, leaving
both threads three or four inches long.
Fig. 11
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SetiiHf tUe. StiioU JleHjfiU
The length of the stitch is regulated by the knob, Fig. 12. Near O is the shortest stitch and 4 is the longest, but the knob may be set at any spot between markings for a variety of lengths. Turn the knob to the left to lengthen and to the right to shorten the stitch.
When you wish to sew backward, to tie the
threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press the
Fig. 12
the *ie*UioH4.
Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) to the right, or clockwise. To decrease turn to the left. The higher number on the dial the tighten the tension. Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly.
When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small screw
on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen.
button in Fig. 12, as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in.
¿it
Fig. 13
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When the upper and under tensions are properly balanced,
a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric 14}.
When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is
pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric
(Fig. 15). , j f
When the under tension is too tight, the upper thread from
loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 16).
Fig. 17
Pfied444^ and ^eetlUfUf oj ^aJt/Uc
GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and zigzag stitching, the pressure bar cap or darner release, Fig. 17, is at its lowest position and the drop
feed release knob, Fig. 18, is Turn to the right N .
Fig. 18
Fig. 14
Correct Stitch
Fig. 15
Needle Thread Tension too strong
Fig. 16
Needle Thred Tension too weak
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10
SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS. When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, A, Fig. 17, and then press cap B Fig. 19 down again to halfway spot. The Drop feed knob pointer (Fig. 18) should be at the middle of indicator "S”.
DARNING AND MONOGRAMING. In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain kinds of free hand embroidery, release the pressure cap B completely by pressing down on the sndp lock. A, Fig. 17. Turn the Drop feed knob to the left, "E” which drops the feed well below the needle plate. To return feed
to normal, the Drop feed knob turn to the right ”N”.
Fig. 19
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Hold the end of the upper-thread with the left hand, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle.
Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the needle bar to its highest position.
Pull the thread you are holding, as the lower thread will be brought up with it through the hole in
the needle plate, as shown Fig. 20.
Place both ends of the upper and lower thread to the back of the presser foot Fig. 21.
Now, place material to be sewn beneath the presser foot and lower the presser foot. Start sewing by slowly turning the balance wheel in direction toward you while gradually working the foot or knee control. DO NOT TRY to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to
break. ALWAYS TURN BALANCE WHEEL TOWARD YOU!
tUe, 'Wo^
Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar are located at the
highest position. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and pass the threads over
the thread cutter. Pull down slightly, holding thread in both hands, so as not to bend the needle. Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot.
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Ueftdaiiétf tke. QiJùMk StUcU
The width of the zigzag stitch is regulated by the zigzag width knob (Fig. 22). By turning the zigzag width knob, the zigzag width indicator appearing in the zigzag width window will move from 0—4 and the width of the zigzag stitch will increase accordingly. In order to set the desired zigzag of the zigzag stitch, use the zigzag width limiting lever attached to the back side of the zigzag width knob. By turning the zigzag width limiting lever together with the zigzag width knob, you can set your desired zigzag width. In order to revert to the previously used zigzag width, turn only the zigzag width knob.
F19. 22
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/JuiomaUc SeuAUtf
Your machine can sew beautiful stitches AUTOMATICALLY with 18 automatic sew discs. . .
To insert a zigzag disc into the machine, follow these instructions:
1. Pull lid (A) open. .
2. Turn zigzag width dial (B) to the extreme right, and keep it there during insertion.
3. Insert disc into axle (C). Turn disc until it slips down and the retaining pin (D) enters hole (E) in disc.
4. Release dial (B).
5. Close lid (A). , ■ , , ,,
To remove the disc, open the lid, turn dial (B) to the right and pull disc up. , , j ■
Now you can insert another disc to produce another design.
(Cams attached to the machine)
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Fig. 23
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Cam No. 1
SEWING
DESIGNS
Cam .No. 1 3
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Cam No. 2
Cam No. 3
Cam No. 4
Cam No. 5
Cam No. 6
Cam No. 7
Cam No. 8
Cam No. 9
Cam No. 10
Cam No. 11
Cam No. 12
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Cam No. 14
Cam No. 15
Cam No. 16
Cam No. 17
Cam .No. 18
Cam No. 19
Cam .No. 20
Cam No. 21
Cam No. 22
Cam No. 23
Cam No. 24
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*JUe
The zipper foot can be readily adjusted to either the right or left side of the slide fastener.
Loosen the screw "A” (Fig. 24a & 24b) and slide the foot into desired position. Adjust the needle
position as required to make the stitching close to the zipper teeth.
Needle plate should be in zig-zag sewing position and use zig-zag presser foot, so that needle
position can be changed freely.
*7a MaJm 3o^d*4if udiU
Cut a true bias strip of fabric wide enough to go over the cord and allow for a seam, usually 1” to 2” depending on size of the cord. Place cord inside the bias and place it under the focA so that the seam edges are to the left. Stitdi the fabric as close as possible to the cord without
catching it.
Gently stretch the bias as you sew (Fig. 24c).
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16
CmùwUàêàiêif Wiik a
It is easy to follow a stamped design or
to work free hand when embroidering or
monogramming. (See Fig. 25). Release the pressure from the foot by pressing down the snap lock on the automatic darner. Turn the drop feed knob to the left "E’ which drops the
feed well below the needle plate.
Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and place under the needle after removing the presser foot. Set the stitch width at the size
you prefere and lower the presser bar lifter.
Then operate the machine at a rather high
speed while moving the hoop slowly both hands,
the path of the needle.
Fig. 25
Work carefull and be sure to keep fingers out of
Release pressure from foot and drop feed as directed above. , , . c t j
in fabric.
Place fabric to be mended under foot, and stitch around hole, moving the fabric firmly and
slowly in any direction. To fill in the hole, stitch from center outward, completing the stitching
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Maki4Uf. ButianJiMei-
This type of Buttonhole Foot can be used for buttonhole and
also zigzag sewing.
First, mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on babric with a basing line or tailor’s chalk. Make one on scrap fabric (following directions below) to be sure machine adjustments are correct.
1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved deeply underneath to prevent piling up of the thread (See Fig. 26).
2. Look the stitch width between 1 and 2, and set the stitch length near 0.
3. Lower needle carefully into the mark on fabric indicating the beginning of buttonhole. Stitch to the mark for the end of the buttonhole, step 1, Fig. 27, stopping machine with needle in fabric at right side of stitching.
4. Lift the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric end for end.
5. Lower presser foot and turn hand wheel just enough to raise needle out of fabric.
6.
Drop feed knob turn to the left and move zigzag knob to 4. While holding the knob at 4 width, take five or six stitches to form bar tack, step 2, Fig. 26. Raise needle out of fabric and return feed to "UP” position and let stitch width dial return to 2. Stitch second side of buttonhole, step 3. P'9- 27
8.
Make bar tack by repeating 5 and 6 above (step 4).
9. Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches to fasten bar threads and prevent raveling.
10.
Cut the buttonhole opening with a seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stitching.
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If vou oían to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place tarlatan or paper which can be
turn away Ster stSng Lder the fabric. And it is always wise to make several buttonholes on scraps of fabric before working on the garment.
SeuUHXf <M.
Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot. (See Fig. 28)
Move 5gig width diai to’'0’ position or to the extreme left. Place the button so that its left hote
comes d!reftly under the needle, then gently lower presser foot Move the zigzag outer dial
to the right until the needle come exactly over the right hole of the button Turn the balance wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle clears both holes of the button.
When^ n^di*goesTnTo^Th'e cem run the machine at medium speed, making five
4.
5. wid,h at 0, and take a few ett.ches
in the same hole. If you wish you may place a rounded toothpick over the button, between the two holes, and sew button to fabric in
regular way. Remove the toothpick and wind thread upper button, forming a shank. Fasten. . , , .,„1.1
Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four holes, hooks and snaps, etc.
If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the same procedure above for the two hole button.
Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit stitching the remaining two holes.
Hooks, snaps, etc., are sewn to the fabric with
the same procedure as for sewing two hole
buttons. F'9- 28
Page 19
JhuM to. /locoiMnded.
NARROW HEMMER. V/hile the needle at its highest position,
-eplace regular presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 29). For a slain narrow hem' make a 1/8 inch double fold for about two inches dong of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch fold, slip underneath lemmer. Bring fold up in to the scroll of hemmer, draw foward to ;nd and fasten with point of needle. Lower presser bar lifter. Gently 3ull ends of threads as you stitching.
Guide material slightly to right, and it will automatically take a
iouble turn through scroll.
LACE TRIMMED HEM. To sew a narrow hem and attach lace ;n one stitching, insert lace in the slot next to needle. Sew hem as ibove, guiding lace in under needle and hem into scroll.
L.^CE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING. Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge on right side of fabric. Insert both in scroll as for
plain narrow hem. Let hem roll over and sew in lace. Press lace Jut Hat along edge with hem turned up. It is possible to have a
ittle fullness in lace by feeding it freely under scroll.
FRENCH SEAM. With right sides together, place top piece of
material 1/8 inch inside edge of lower piece. Insert in hemmer scroll illowing hem to roll over and sew in top fabric, making French seam.
FLAT FELLED SEAM. Open out French seam and insert rolled
!dge in scroll of hemmer. Edgestitch to lay seam flat.
HAND ROLLED EFFECT. Use a narrow zigzag stitch, just wide enough to catch both edges
>f the narrow, rolled hem.
QUILTING GUIDE. This guide for making parallel rows of stitching is attached by placing the
jronged holder between the presser foot and the presser foot thumb screw (Fig. 30).
SCROLL ,
FOLD
Fig. 29
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i
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20
Adjust the curved bar to press lightly on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the first stitching line, succes
sive rows will be an equal distance apart.
When the bar is attached so that the curved part is to the
right of the needle, it may also serve as a seam width guide.
SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE. Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams and even rows of top stitching along edges of fabric. Fasten gauge with accompanying screw in threaded hole in needle plate or in bed of machine (Fig. 31). Adjust to seam width desired.
CisAe. and MacUlw
'^°^ou?r?akin?^lmuW^S^o^^ occasionally to keep it operating smoothly-how often depends on
Before'^o?Hn^gThe^upper part of the sewing unit at points indicated by arrows in Fig. 32, turn
hand wheel toward you until the take-up lever is at its lowest point.
':i2Cr“
Fig. 32
Avoid over oiling. Only a drop is needed at each point. ... > , „ „f
To oil parts under the bed of the machine, tip the unit back on its hinges and apply a drop
oil at each point indicated in Fig. 32.
Fig. 33
Fig. 31
Page 21
QleanUuf a*td OiUtiif the SUutUe
(See Figs. 34 and 35)
The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint. This
will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows:
. .. ,1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its high
est position. Tilt head back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin case (A), Fig. 35.
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and shuttle body (D).
Fig. 34
b
Fig. 35
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race cover by removing all threads, lint, etc.
5. Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle
When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shuttle assembly;
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.
2. Place shuttle body, (D), against shuttle driver and adjust into position.
3. Replace shuttle race cover, (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (B), making certain the clamps have been snapped securely into position.
4. Put bobbin into bobbin case.
5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle race, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover.
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Page 22
22
GUeck BmooUt Se4Jidnf
Although your sewing machine is designed for maximum efficiency, should any of the following
difficulties occur they can be remedied with minor adjustments. Upper Thread Breaks
Be sure needle is inserted properly. Check on correct way to thread machine.
Use correct needle size for thread.
Do not have upper tension too tight.
Lower Thread Breaks
Check correct method of threading bobbin case.
Be sure lower tension is not too tight.
Neeffie Bre fabric while sewing as this will bend and eventually break the needle.
Be sure presser foot is firmly attached to bar.
Skipped Stitches
Do not use a blunt or bent needle.
Insert needle correctly. Use correct needle size for thread. , , •
Be sure pressure on foot is sufficient when sewing heavy fabrics.
Stitches Loop ^ , , , • j j „..»i..
Make sure tensions are properly balanced and that machine is threaded correctly.
Machine Binds
Clean thread, dust and lint from hook, shuttle and race. i
If condition continues, it may be that the machine is gummy with oil. Apply kerosene to oil holes, run rapidly for a while, and wipe dry. Then lubricate again with fine sewing machine
oil. ’
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NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES (USE 15x1 NEEDLE ONLY)
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Sizes & Grades of
Needles j
0 or 11
(Medium-Fine)
14 or 14
(Medium)
1 or 16
(Light-Heavy)
2 or 18
(Medium-Heavy)
3 or 19
(Heavy)
4 or 21
(Extra-Heavy)
Type of Fabric
and
Work to be Done
Medium light-weight and summertime fabrics. For house dresses, children’s dresses, washable cotton dresses, aprons, curtains.
Dress silks and cottons, light weight woolens, draperies, fabric furnishings. For general household sewing, fine men’s shirts, smocks, window draperies and fabric decorations.
Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin, brocades and quilts. For men’s work shirts, sturdy smocks and aprons, heavy quilting and fabric furnishings.
Heavy woven coating, light weight canvas, bed ticking,
upholstery and awning materials, slipcover fabrics.
For work or sports uniforms, suits made of strong linen
or cotton fabrics, awnings, slip covers and matteresses.
Heavy woven suiting, coating, duck, ticking, drilling. canvas and sacking. For heavy wash uniform, bedding supplies for hospitals, hotels and camps.
For bags, canvas, coarse cloths and heavy goods.
SIZE OF THREAD
Cotton Silk Linen
80
to
100
60
to
80 40
to
60
^ 30 : to : 60
= 10
to
30
0
Twist
A&B
Twist
C
Twist
D
Twist
E
Twist
Very
Coarse
i
Printed in Japan
60
to
80 40
to
60
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