SINGER W815 User Manual

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1. CONTENTS
1. Contents.............................................................................................................................................................1
2. Description of machine..................................................................................................................................2—3
3. Winding the bobbin.............................................................................................................................................4
4. Threading the bobbin case................................................................................................................................. 5
5. Inserting and removing the bobbin case..............................................................................................................6
6. Threading the machine.......................................................................................................................................7
7. Setting the needle...............................................................................................................................................7
8. Preparing to sew.................................................................................................................................................8
9. Starting to sew....................................................................................................................................................8
10. Regulating the thread tension.............................................................................................................................9
12. Regulating the drop feed..................................................................................................................................10
13. Regulating width of zigzag stitch...................................................................................................................11
14. Regulating length of zigzag stitch.................................................................................................................. 11
15. List of zigzag patterns.......................................................................................................................................12
16. Oiling.................................................................................................................................................................13
17. Cleaning the shuttle race..................................................................................................................................14
18. How to make buttonholes.........................................................................................................................15—16
19. Darning embroidering and monogramming.......................................................................................................17
20. Button sewing...................................................................................................................................................18
21. Narrow hemming..............................................................................................................................................19
22. Zipper sewing...................................................................................................................................................20
23. Felling
24. Cloth guide.......................................................................................................................................................21
25. Quilting.............................................................................................................................................................21
27. Cause of common difficulties........................................................................................................................... 23
28. Needle and thread sizes...................................................................................................................................24
..............................................................................................................................................................20
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2. DESCRIPTION OF MACHINE
16 17 18
7 6 3
19 20 21 22
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1 .Balance Wheel
2.Stitch Length Control Knob
3. Reverse Push Button
4. Drop Feed Knob
5. Dial Tension
6. Needle Clamp
7. Needle Plate
8.Slide Plate 9,Presser Foot
10. Presser Foot Clamp Screw
11. Needle Bar Thread Guide
12. Lower Thread Guide
13. Horizontal Thread Guide
14. Face Plate
15. Light Switch (Rear side)
16. Thread Guide
17. Tension Bracket
18. Top Plate
19.Spool Pin
20. Zig-Zag Width Lever
21. Bobbin Winder
22. Bobbin Winder Stopper
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3. WINDING THE BOBBIN
1. To wind the bobbin, the balance wheel must be disconnected from the stitching mechanism. Hold the balance wheel with your left hand and turn the stop motion knob (Fig, 1) towards you with your right hand. This will permit the balance wheel to turn freely while the needle bar remains motionless. The balance wheel is now disconnected for the bobbin winding operation.
2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. Draw thread from the spool through tension bracket from back to front (Fig. 2).
3. Now wind the end of the thread around empty bobbin seven or eight times and place the threaded bobbin on the spindle of the bobbin winder.
4. And push the bobbin winder from left to right.
5. Now manipulate your foot control in the same manner as in sewing and when the bobbin is completely full it will release automatically and stop turning. Detach bobbin from spindle. Hold balance wheel firmly with left hand and with the right hand turn stop motion knob, away from you until if cannot be moved any further and the needle bar moves with the turning of the balance wheel.
Fig 2
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Fig 4
4. THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Before threading the bobbin case, study Fig. 3, 4 and 5 to get a general idea as to how it is done.
1. Hold the bobbin case with your left hand and put the bobbin into the bobbin case with your right hand, leaving about two inches of the thread end unwound (Fig. 3). As the bobbin is being inserted in the bobbin case, the thread flow, you will note, is clockwise.
2. While holding the bobbin case as before, grasp the thread and with your right hand and guide it into the cross slot (Fig. 4).
3. Then pull it through under the tension spring of the bobbin case until it enters the delivery eye (Fig. 5).
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5. INSERTING AND REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Raise the presser bar by lifting the presser bar lifter.
2. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the balance wheel towards you.
3. Pull out slide plate IFig. 6).
4. After threading the bobbin case, hold its latch (Fig. 7) between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with its position finger opposite the notch at the top of the shuttle race and replace it on the centre stud of the shuttle
(Fig 7).
5. Then release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch catches the groove near the end of the stud.
6. Allow the end of the thread to hang free.
7. Push back slide plate. To remove the bobbin case do all the above in reverse order.
(f i J
Fig 6
. Fig 7 6 -
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6. THREADING THE MACHINE
Place a spool of thread on spool pin and raise the take-up lever to its highest point Refer to(Fig. 8).
Pull thread through slot of upper thread guide (1) down through tension discusi2)up into thread check spring (3) and
(4) and on up into the eye of the take-up lever (5) from right
to left.
Return thread through middle thread guide ¡6) down through lower guide (7j and into needle bar thread guide (8).
Thread needle from left to right, pulling about four inches
of thread through needle.
7. SETTING THE NEEDLE
1. Turn the balance wheel towards you, raising needle bar to its highest position, and loosen the needle clamp screw.
2. Hold the needle in the left hand with the point down and insert the needle up into the needle clamp as far as it will go with its flat surface to the right then retight
en the clamp screw (Fig. 9).
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8. PREPARING TO SEW
1. Hold the end of the upper-thread with the left hand, leaving it
slack from the hand to the nee'dle.
2, Turn the balance wheel towards you to lef the needle bar to its
highest position.
3 Pull the thread you are holding, and the lower thread will be brought
up with it through the hole in the needle plate, as shown (Fig. 10).
4, Place both ends of the upper and lower thread under and to the back
of the Dresser foot fFig. 11).
9. STARTING TO SEW
1 Place the fabric to be sewn beneath the presser foot.
2. Lower the presser foot by lowering the presser bar lifter.
3. Start sewing by slowly turning the balance wheel towards you while gradually working the foot control,
always turn balance wheel towards YOU!
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10. REGULATING THE THREAD TENSION
For ordinary stitching the tension of the upper and lower threads should be equal so as to lock both threads in the center of the material (Fig.
13). If one tension is stronger than the other,
imperfect stitching will result. Fine materials require a light tension, while heavy materials require more tension to obtain -a perfect stitch. TO INCREASE the tension, turn the thread tension dial (Fig. 12) clockwise.
TO LESSEN the tension, turn the thread tension dial in the opposite direction. (When regulat
ing the tension always have the presser foot
down).
As all machines are correctly adjusted before leaving the factory and
readjusted before the dealer delivers them to you, the lower tension seldom requires to be altered, but, if this becomes necessary, tighten the screw holding the tension spring on the outside of the bobbin case
for more tension, or loosen the screw slightly for lesser tension (Fig. 14).
Fig 12
Correct Stitch
Needle Thread Tension too strong
Needle Thread Tension too weak
Fig 13
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1. REGULATING THE STITCH LENGTH
The length of the stitch can be changed with the stitch length dial (Fig. 15). In order to set machine at a certain length of stitch, turn the stitch length dial until the indicator is facmg the selected number on the scale. The length of the stitch is
variable from 0-5. The normal stitch lenght is 2. a Regulate the length of the stitch as for forward sewing. b. Push reverse stitch button located in the centre of the stitch length dial (Fig.
15) as far as it wiM go. The machine will remain sewing in reverse while the
reverse stitch button is depressed. When released the machine resumes forward sewing with the same stitch length.
12. REGULATING THE DROP FEED
The DROP FEED is located on the bed of the machine (Fig 16).It regulates the
height of the feed dog for sewing normal material, for darning and embroidering.
1. For darning, embroidering and monogramming, turn the knob to left "DOWN" place and the feed mechanism will be lowered under the level of
theneedle plate, so that the material can be moved freely.
2. For normal sewing turn the knob to the right UP place.
Fig 15
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13. REGULATING WIDTH OF ZIGZAG STITCH
Fig 17
The width of zigzag stitch is regulated by the zigzag lever. By pushing the zigzag lever to right, the width of the zigzag stitch will increase accordingly. And by pushing the zigzag lever to left, the width of the zigzag stitch will
decrease accordingly. If at "0" position, there will be a straight stitch.
14. REGULATING LENGTH OF ZIGZAG STITCH
The stitch length dial regulates the length of the zigzag stitch for zigzag sewing in the same manner as for straight sewing. In order to produce the "Satin Stitch" which is the closest zigzag stitch, set the stitch length dial close to 0.
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15. LIST OF ZIG ZAG PATTERNS
Patterns
1
2
/vw
3
mm
4
5
Stitch
Length
5
5
0.5-2
0.5-2
How to move zig zag lever or needle position lever
Lock, zig zag lever at
Lock zig zag lever at (B).
Lock zig zag lever Î5).
Move zig zag lever from (0) to (5) at even speed
Restât^and oscillatetV\-ft\-iV\and rest.
...........
(0).
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16. OILING
To see that your machine is always in smooth running condition, you must keep it oiled at all times. No grease is required, just a drop of oil is sufficient at each time of oiling. Points to be oiled are il lustrated in Fig. 18 & 19 by arrow marks. To oil your machine thoroughly, open top^ plate and turn the machine over to get to parts underneath the bed. After oiling, run the machine at high speed for a few minutes to let the oil penetrate to all parts.
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17. CLEANING THE SHUTTLE RACE
When the thread is tangled in the race or lint gets into the
space between the shuttle and shuttle-race, this will cause abrupt heavy running or complete stoppage of the machine.
When this occurs
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position and take the bobbin case out.
2. Pull the KNOBS (A) on both side of shuttle race (Fig. 20 & 21) aside, then take out the outside ring and the shuttle body with your fingers.
3. After shuttle race and bobbin case have been cleaned, put all of them back in reverse order.
Fig 21
Fig 20
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18. HOW TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES
1. Set zig-zag width between markings 1 and 2.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn the balance wheel towards you to bring needle to its highest position. Replace regular presser foot with special buttonhole foot shown on Fig. 22. Tighten thumb screw.
3. Set stitch length to obtain closely spaced forward stitches. Best length of stitch for buttonholes is when indicator is placed between markings 0 and 1 on dial. Adjust length of stitch, if necessary, to get best possible
appearance of buttonhole.
4. Slightly tighten needle thread tension, turning thread tension to the right. If appearance of buttonhole should not prove satisfactory, slightly vary tension until the desired results are obtained.
NOTE: It IS suggested that you make one or two sample buttonholes
on a clipping of fabric, same as your garment, to test adjustments of machine and to make corrections, if needed. Also mark with pencil or chalk the position and exact length of buttonhole on garment. Adjust gauge on bottonhole presser foot (Fig 22) to
correspond to the desired length of the buttonhole. To determine this adjustment, measure size of button and add approximately 3/16" to 1/4". The distance from the needle or the machine to the front of the gauge should equal this measurement. The actual sewing of the buttonhole should be done in this sequence.
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5. Place start of buttonhole under needle and have its face you. Let down presser foot and begin sewing. Stop when first row of stitches reaches the gauge.
6. Turn handwheel toward you until needle makes another right hand stitch. Leave needle in material, (Fig. 22-A)
7. Raise presser foot slightly and turn garment clockwise around the needle. (Fig.22-B) Lower presser foot and turn handwheel toward you until needle is above material.
8. Setting zigzag width lever to the Tightest position. Make 3 to 4 stitches to sew closing bar and stop machine with needle out of materiaj. The adjacent diagram (Fig. 22-C) shows the buttonhole as far as it has progressed up tonow.
9. Resetting zigzag width lever between markings 1 and 2. (to its original setting). Now sew a second line of purl stitches making sure that the already sewn row passes through
the right-hand groove at the underside of the buttonhole presser foot. Stop machine with needle out of material. The almost finished buttonhole will look like this (Fig.22-D).
10. Setting zigzag width lever again and repeat operation described in paragraph 8 above this finishes the buttonhole. If desired, lock stitchirtg by sewing a few stitches
with zigzag width lever returned to its normal position, so the indicator points at "0 and turn the drop feed knob to left "down! Insert Buttonhole Cutter at one end of
buttonhole and carefully cut material between the two rows of stitching. Avoid cutting of stitching to assure strong and lasting buttonholes, to make reinforced buttonholes
introduce gimp of proper size into the samll hole right in front of the halfmoon-shapeded
stitch hole of the buttonhole presser foot. Sew over gimp as machine makes buttonholes
leave thread tension much the same as for ordinary sewing. Purl stitch buttonholes require a tight tension of the needle thread. For better appearance, use needle thread of
the next heavier size.
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19. DARNING EMBROIDERING AND MONOGRAMMING
Lower the feed by turning drop feed knob to "DOWN" thus permitting the work to be moved by hand in any direction desired. Also remove presser foot andiowerfoot lifting lever and your machine is ready for
embroidering and darning. Both will be done most successfully when material is stretched on an embroidery hoop.
Hold the hoop closely on the machine base with both hands and press the material with index finger on the vicinity of the needle. This will help in holding down the material and will prevent the machine from
skipping stitches. Manipulate work carefully and be sure to keep finger out of path of needle to avoid injury. Adjust thread tensions for best appearance of embroidery work and slightly decrease the upper thread
tension to avoid the lower thread from being pulled up.
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20. BUTTON SEWING
Turn balance wheel towards you to get needle to .ts highest pos.tion.
Raise presser bar and replace regular presser foot, with button sewing ‘oot as shown in Fig. 23- Drop the feed dog as required for darning
and embro.denng. Upper and lower thread tensions remain the same as for ordinary sewing.
Place material or garment together with button under the presser foot so that holes in button line up with oblong hole in presser foot.
.Adiust width of zigzag stitch to permit needle to pass through center
Fig 23
of holes In button. ■ u •
Before sewing with power, turn the balance wneei uy a
the center of the holes m button.lf the needle hit the button it will break.
Then sew five to six stitches to attach button. When attaching four-hole buttons first sew one set of two holes, then stitch into second set of two holes an
lock thread with two or three plain stitches in last hole.
K r rh, balance wheel by hand towards you to make sure that needle will stitch in
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21. NARROW HEMMING
Turn balance wheel towards you until needle reaches its highest point. Raise presser bar and remove the regular presser foot. Attach hemmer foot (Fig. 24).
1. Fold over edge of material approximately H" wide, then fold it over again in the same way for a length of about
2”. Insert this folded end from beneath into spiral formed opening (scroll) of hemmer foot. Move material back and forth until the hem forms itself in the scroll.
2. Pull material towards you until the beginning of the hem is just below the needle.
3. Lower presser foot and begin to sew. Guide material into hemmer foot while sewing (Fig.24).
NOTE: Do not crowd material into scroll and do not leave scroll only partly filled by material, feed just enough
material into the hemmer foot to fill out the scroll. Instead of a straight stitch, you can also use a zigzag stitch for this hemming operation. Be sure however,
to adjust the width of the zigzag stitch to be as wide as the hem itself. Using a very long stitch and tight
tensions will produce a shell stitch.
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22. ZIPPER SEWING
1 Release the thumb screw on rear side of foot. Lower needle into the
side notch of the foot and check position of the foot to avoid needle strike the foot. Fasten thumb screw to the lock make sure that the foot
is in DOSitlOn. , . ,,
2. Fold edge of the material by %" and place zipper under the folded portion of the material where you wish to attach the zipper.
3 Stitch close to the edge of the zipper foot along zipper teeth.
_
__
4' To sew on the opposite side of the zipper, loosen thumb screw and slide
tne foot over and sew in the same way.
23. FELLING
Us-the hemmer foot for doing felling and proceed in the following manner
V Lav two pieces of cloth one on too of the other with their RIGHT sides facing
each other. The right edge of the bottom piece must extend about ¡^inch beyon
the right edge of the top piece. See Fig. 26
2 Sew both pieces of cloth together using the hemmer foot like a regular presser
'oot. Use the right edge of long toe of hemmer foot to guide the bottom piece
of material while the left edge of the same toe serves as a gu 1 de for the top piece of material. Fig. 26 shows this aetaii.
3. Open and spread out material and put back on machine nght sides downward. Make sewn edges of material stand up.
Fold over the edges to the left and insert them into the scroll of the hemmer foot. Sew as you would do ordinary hemming. Use left edge of long toe of hemmer
-Out as guide, having original seam run alongside of it (Fig. 27!
Fig 25
TOP PI CCE
BOTTOM PUCE-
Fig 26
flPST
FOID
20-
Fig 27
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24. CLOTH GUIDE
The cloth guide (Fig. 28) serves as a guide for straight stitching when making wide hems, deep tucks or seam widths which are greater than presser foot allows.
It is attached to machine as illustrated.
25. QUILTING
The quilter (Fig. 29) will enable you to sew equidistant lines on padded fabrics without the necessity of marking them in advance.
1. To attach the quilter to the presser bar of the machine, loosen the presser foot thumb screw and place the quilter
astride the presser foot. The quilter must be on top of the presser foot when secured on the presser bar.
2. Adjust the width guide of the quilter to the desired width and drop guide on material.
3. Sew with the quilter width guide following the previous stitches as- in Fig. 29.
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Fig 29
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26. SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS
TO TURN CORNERS:
1 Stop the machine while the neeoie IS 5UI
2', ,h, pr.«.r foo, and ,„.n th, fabnc using .h. n..dl. as a P»«.
3. Lower the presser foot and resume sewing.
TO SEW ELASTIC FABRICS: , Hoths e^c it is advisable to sew them with reduced upper
,h..ad ,.ns.on o,ne™.s. .b. .b.aad will break wb.n .b. sawn ma.anals ar.
TO SEW VERY THIN CLOTH: newspaper or any other thin
wnan sawing »ry <b.n Co.b wbinb .and. .0 ga.b.r as VbslriU
p,p.r und.rn...b ,ba n.a.eri.1 an= saw w.,b .b. sbor.as, sb.cb possibla. Tbrs „
rr.ra .b. ..nsiPb o. -b. uPPar .braad and anspinv .ba iongas. sb.ab puss,b,a,
2. Tbe so.cbas pray .ban ba aasily ranso-.d bv pulb"S "b« I»”«' 'b'»»“­TO KEEP YOUR MACHINE IN PERFECT CONDITION: machine
iuf\t:c.r iww j/.loan Ho not over-oil macnme.
,. K..P an mo-ing parts P< >ba macbina cpns.an.ly orlad and cl.an. Dp no
2. Always turn handwheel toward you.
3. Do not run machine without cloth. machine is designed to feed
4. When sewing, do not pull the material otherwise you wHl bend the nee .
1 ■ u.iq tKp nppdiG IS Still ths mstGnsl.
SUCK .I.S..C ma..s.ais as ¡.rs.vs, bias cu, do. . ^ ^
the material automatically-
5. Do not operate machine when the presser bar lifter is raised.
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27. CAUSE OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES
BREAKING OF THE UPPER THREAD;
1. Incorrect threading
3. Faulty needle or needle set incorrectly
4. Needle brushing against presser foot or other attachments
5. Needle eye too small for thread used 6. Starting the machine suddenly or with a jerk
7. Starting the machine with the take up lever at its lowest position
BREAKING OF THE LOWER THREAD:
1. Incorrect threading of the bobbin case 2. Lower thread tension too tight
2. Upper thread tension too tight
3. Bobbin being wound too fully or too loose
4. Rough edge of hole in needle plate caused by improper needle action
BREAKING OF THE NEEDLE:
1. Pulling the fabric while machine is running, thus causing, the needle to strike the needle plate
2. Using bent needle
SKIPPING STITCHES:
1. Using bent or blunt needles 2. Needle inserted incorrectly
3. Needle threaded incorrectly 4, Using wrong size needle
5. Pressure on presser foot insufficient, especially when sewing heavy material
UNEVEN STITCHES:
1. Presser foot not resting evenly on material
3. Using too short a stitch
5. Using too fine a needle with to coarse a thread
Feed dog not being high enough
Pulling the cloth while the machine is running
6. Thread out of tension or check spring
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18. NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES
Sizes & Grades of
Needles
11
¡Medium-Fine)
i (Medium)
I
16
1 (Light-Heavy)
i
19
I (Heavy)
i
14
18
(Medium-Heavy)
(Extra-Heavy)
Type of Fabric
and
Work to be Done
Medium, light-weight and summertime fabrics. For house dresses, children's dresses, washable cotton dresses, aprons, curtains.
Dress silks and cottons, light weight woolens, draperies, fabric furnishing.
For general household sewing, fine men's shirts, smocks, window draperies and fabric decorations.
Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin, brocades and puilts. For men's work'shirts, sturdy smocks and aprons, heavy auiltinq and fabric furnishings.
Heavy woven coating, light weight canvas, bed ticking, upholstery and awning materials, slipcover fabrics.
For work or sports uniforms, suits made of strong linen
or cotton fabrics, awnings, slip covers and mattresses.
Heavy woven suiting, coating, duck, ticking, drilling, canvas and sacking. For heavy wash uniforms, bedding supolies for hospitals, hotels and camps.
For bags, canvas coarse cloths and heavy goods.
....................................................
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......
SI7E OF THREAD
Cotton
80
to
100
60
to
80
40
to
60 30
to
40
10
to
30
Very
Coarse
Silk 1
Twist
A & B Twist
Twist
Twist
r-
----------
Twist
0
C
D
E
Linen
■■ ' " "i
60 1
to
80 40
to 60
24-
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