SINGER W811 User Manual

MODEL 811
SEWING MACHINE
Record in space provided below the Serial No. and Model No. of this appliance. The Serial No. is located on Base plate The Model No. is located on Base plate
Serial No
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Model No. —§_i Retain these numbers for future reference.
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USING THE FOOT CONTROL

TO CONNECT THE FOOT CONTROL WIRES:

• Connect special plug to block on machine as shown in diagram above.
• Connect outlet plug to electrical outlet.
• When sewing, keep children's hands away from foot control and wiring.
• After sewing, disconnect plug from electrical outlet.
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TO USE THE FOOT PEDAL:

• Begin sewing by turning the hand wheel toward you and apply
gradually increasing pressure to foot pedal.
• Sewing at a constant speed will give best results.
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USING THE EXTENSION PLATE
3 ATTACH AND REMOVE THE
remove the extension plate.
LEVELING THE MACHINE ^
Level your sewing machine when you use it on the table or install it into the cabinet.
UP: Counter Clockwise DOWN; Clockwise
FREE ARM FEATURES
TUBULAR SEWING , . . ^
• The free arm design simplifies the sewing of tubular items such as pant cuffs, shirt and blouse cuffs and socks.
Simply position these items over the tubular bed of the machine and sew.
Al IlfcD SEWING
/viti'ii (he uxtension plate is attached ,..u ii.ive.ill the advantages of aflat
I..11 imii* tor sewing flat items, tiitl for sitwing large tubular itiHi'. !.u(;h as flared pant legs.
HANGING THE PRESSER FOOT
bed
Raise needle bar to highest position and raise presser
foot as shown.
The extra lift for heavy fabric
makes it easier to place fabric under the presser foot.
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O REMOVE THE PRESSER FOOT: ■

■ Pri.'ss button on back of presser foot shank and foot will drop from shank
as shown above.
' It (s not necessary to loosen the thumb
screw to change presser foot.
.
..................................

TO ATTACH THE PRESSER FOOT:

• Align desired presser foot to shank as shown above.
• Lower presser foot lever and shank will automatically attach to foot
as shown above.
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CHANGING THE NEEDLE
Flat side
Always make sure needle is straight. To check straightness of needle, lay needle on a flat surface and see thafneedle is straight and parallel as shown in above diagram.
. Needle
Clamp Screw
- Flat side towards
back of machine
Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle bar to its highest posi tion.
Loosen needle clamp screw and insert needle upward as far as it wif
go, making sure flat side of needle is towards back of machine as shown in the above diagram.
Tighten needle clamp screw with screwdriver.
Follow the same procedure for insertion of twin needle.
To make sure that needle has been inserted correctly, turn hant wheel toward you and see that needle comes down through thi center of the needle hole in the needle plate as shown in the abovi
diagram. . .
Stitch selector dial must be set in straight stitch needle positioi when checking needle alignment.
If skipped stitches occur, needle may be incorrectly inserted.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
3 DISENGAGE THE HAND WHEEL:
Hold the hand wheel 11) with left hand, turn clutch counterclockwise with right hand to disengage as shown.
12)
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TO WIND THREAD ONTO BOBBIN:
Lead thread through spring thread guide (4) and through the hole in
your bobbin from the inside out.
• Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft (3).
• Push the bobbin winder to the right.
Hold loose end of thread firmly and turn hand wheel to make thread tight. Apply gradual pressure on foot pedal until automatic shut off
disengage bobbin winder.
• Cut off loose end of thread.
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CHANGING THE BOBBIN

TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN FROM BOBBIN CASE:

• Raise needle bar to its highest position. Bobbin case cannot be
removed when needle bar is at low position.
• Open shuttle race cover, pull bobbin case latch with two fingers and
remove bobbin case as shown above.
• Remove bobbin from bobbin case by releasing latch.

TO ATTACH THE BOBBIN CASE:

• Pull thread at least 3 inches from bobbin.
• Thread bobbin as shown on page) 7 ).
Making sure that needle bar is at its highest position, insert bobbin case into shuttle race by holding bobbin case latch. Make sure bob bin case finger is inside shuttle notch. Press bobbin case into shuttle as far as possible until latch catches on center post of the shuttle.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Pull |[ire;i(l at least 3 inches from bobbin, hu.uti bobbin in bobbin case so that
ihtu.id will unravel clockwise.
Pull thread into slot of bobbin case as shown in Fig. 2.
Draw thread under the tension spring and
into the fork'Shaped opening of the spring
• IS sliown in Fig. 3.
Pull thread through hole in bobbin case finger as sliown in Fig. 4.
(Recommended for /ig/ag sewing only)
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INCORRECT TOP TENSION TIGHT BOTTOM TENSION LOOSE
INCORRECT
TOP TENSION LOOSE
BOTTOM TENSION TIGHT

TO ADJUST BOBBIN TENSION.

• Turn screw Oft side of Itobbin case clockwise to increase!
tension.
• Turn screw on side of bobbin case counterclockwist! to decreast! tension.
CORRECT
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UPPER THREADING
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Raise needle bar to its highest position^
SthrSd'through top plate thread guide (1 ) and between tensiot
Puli'tead down a.ound am, thmad guido 13: and up lo take-u,
LOM ‘.hiead through evelet on rake-up lave, from ugh. ro lei, an,
[¡rn’rm^gh laca^ Plata guida (hi, ¿rirn^r'm.o,,,,
Pull thread down through needle elamp gui ^ needle hole from front to rear (7),
Always use the same type of thread on top and bottom as differet sizes or types of thread will cause tension problems. ,
Example Polyester thread on the bobbin and cotton thread on to
will result in poor tension quality.
8
TWIN NEEDLE UPPER THREADING
• Follow threading instruction for single needle with these exception.
• Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on both spool pins.
• Draw threads through thread guides as normal, but separate the
ilireads at the tension.
• Pass on thread through the left disc and one thread through the right disc.
• Now treat both threads as one until you reach the needle eyes.
ZIGZAG DIAL: Set at desired width between "O" and "3," if you set
ImI higher than 3, the needle will hit the needle plate and break.
STITCH LENGTH; Set at desired stitch length.
ADJUSTING FEED DOG HEIGHT
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U|)per position of feed dog is used for normal sewing. To raise feed
I log.
I’ress drop feed button " 4A " located under shuttle cover to upper
position.
1
ower position is used for Embroidering, Mending or Sewing on
ihitton. Press drop feed button "HT" to lower position.
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PICKING-UP LOWER BOBBIN THREAD
Raise presser foot.
Holding upper thread, turn
hand wheel toward you
one rotation. When take-up lever is at its highest position, pull thread
to pick up loop of lower
bobbin thread.
Pull both upper and lower thread "to the left of" presser foot ap
proximately 6 inches.
This will prevent jamming.
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REGULATING PRESSURE
Fig. 1
The amount of pressure that is applied to the fabric by the press(
foot is adjusted by the pressure cap (1). The upper position gives th
least amount of pressure while the lowest position gives maximui
pressure.
To increase the pressure, push down on the pressure cap to obta
the desired setting. To decrease the pressure, press down on tf snap lock ring (2) to allow the pressure cap to return to its maximu height. Then reset to the proper pressure.
Normally the pressure cap will be in the lowest position. If the tc
layer of fabric tends to push out further than the bottom layer
fabric. Pressure should be decreased. This often happens on bull
fabrics, such as wools, and on knits.
Fig. 2
10
ADJUSTING UPPER TENSION
To increase upper tension, turn upper tension regulator to higher
number.
To decrease upper tension, turn upper tension regulator to a lo
wer number.
Turning tension regulator from ”0" to "9" will increase tension. Nor mal sewing is performed between "4" and "5".
Note: Normal stitches will be performed on the red zone at 4, 5 and
6 for regular cotton threads.
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Proper Tension
Fig. 2
Fig- 3
A perfect straight stitch will be formed with both threads interlock ing in fabric as shown in Fig. 1, When using the zig zag stitch for embroidery (satin stitching), decrease upper tension so that top surface will look smooth at the expense of the bottom surface.
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Upper Thread Tension Too Loose
Upper Thread Tension Too Tight
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FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART
FABRIC
DELICATE - tulle, chiffon, voile, fine lace, organdy, lawn, crepe, taffeta
Knits — sheer tricot
LIGHTWEIGHT - batiste, organdy, voile, taffeta, silk, crepe, chiffon, velvet
KNITS - tricot, brushed tricot, jerseys, synthetic leathers, power net
LEATHERS — plastic film, vinyls MEDIUM WEIGHT - gingham, percale, linen, chintz,faille, satin, corduroy, velvet, suitings, wools,
pique, terry _
KNITS - jersey, double knit power net, bathing suits
LEATHERS - vinyls, plastic film
MEDIUM HEAVY ^ gabardine, tweed sailcloth, denim, duck, coatings, wools, drapery. 16
KNITS - double knit, power net
LEATHER — vinyl, rubber backed drapery fabric
HEAVY — overcoatings, canvas, upholstery, awning
KNITS - fake furs, velours, sweater
LEATHERS - vinyls, plastics
light ball point
light ball point
Wedge point
light or medium
Wedge point
! heavy ball point
Wedge point
Wedge point
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NEEDLE (Long Scarf)
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11
14
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130/705H
Eu ropean
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100
18 110
heavy ball point
Fine mercerized 60
70
Eu ropean 50 — 70 "A” Silk Fine Synthetics
80
Fine mercerized 60 European 50 — 70 Fine Synthetics "A” Silk
Mercerized 50
90
European 30 "A” Silk Synthetic
Mercerized 50
Heavy Duty Mercerized
j European 30
I
"A" Silk
! Synthetic
Heavy Duty Mercerized European 30
Synthetic
STITCH
THREAD
LENGTH
1-1/4 - 1-3/4
1- 3/4 ^ 2
2- 1/2 -3
ADJUSTING UPPER TENSION
To increase upper tension, turn upper tension regulator to higher number.
To decrease upper tension, turn upper tension regulator to a lo
wer number.
Turning tension regulator from “0" to "9" will increase tension. Nor mal sewing is performed between "4" and "5".
Note: Normal stitches will be performed on the red zone at 4, 5 and
6 for regular cotton threads.
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Fig, 1.
Proper Tension
Fig, 2
Upper Thread Tension Too Loose
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Fig. 3
A perfect straight stitch will be formed with both threads interlock ing in fabric as shown in Fig. 1.
When using the zig zag stitch for embroidery (satin stitching), decrease upper tension so that top surface will look smooth at the expense of the bottom surface.
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Upper Thread Tension Too Tight
_
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FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART
NJ
FABRIC
DELICATE - tulle, chiffon, voile, fine lace, organdy, lawn, crepe, taffeta
Knits - sheer tricot
LIGHTWEIGHT - batiste, organdy, voile, taffeta, silk, crepe, chiffon, velvet
KNITS — tricot, brushed tricot, jerseys, synthetic leathers, power net
LEATHERS - plastic film, vinyls MEDIUM WEIGHT - gingham, percale, linen, chintz,faille, satin, corduroy, velvet, suitings, wools
pique, terry
KNITS - jersey, double knit power net, bathing suits
LEATHERS - vinyls, plastic film
MEDIUM HEAVY ^ gabardine, tweed sailcloth, denim, duck, coatings, wools, drapery.
KN ITS - double knit, power net ^ ^
LEATHER - vinyl, rubber backed drapery fabric HEAVY — overcoatings, canvas, upholstery, awning
KNITS - fake furs, velours, sweater
___________
HA X 1
3
11
14
(Long Scarf)
130/705H Eu ropean
NEEDLE
light ball point
light ball point
Wedge point
r~Iight or medium
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I Wedge point
16
heavy ball point
Wedge point
18 ^ 110
heavy bali point
m/oHnp nnint
THREAD
Fine mercerized 60
70
Eu ropean 50 — 70
A Silk
Fine Synthetics
80
Fine mercerized 60 European 50 — 70
Fine Synthetics "A" Silk
Mercerized 50
90
"A" Silk Synthetic
Mercerized 50
I Heavy Duty Mercerized
1 European 30
^ "A" Silk
j Synthetic I Heavy Duty Mercerized
i European 30 I 2-1 /2 — 4
Synthetic
_____________
STITCH
LENGTH
1-1/4 - 1-3/4
1-3/4 - 2
2-1/2 -3
2-1/2
2 --2-1/2
2-1/2 - 3
Point Eye
Shaft
Body
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Flat
Short Groove Long Groove
(Flat Side of Needle) (Round Side of Needle)
Regular Sharp All purpose Medium Ball Needle Needle Point Needle
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Long Groove -
Elongated Scarf -
Short Groove-
Eye -
Wedge Point
Needle
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FUNCTIONS OF CONTROLS
NEEDLE POSITION AND PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL
• Raise needle bar to highest position b'
turning hand wheel toward you.
• Select desired pattern and needle
position.
• Selector dial can be turned either
clockwise or counterclockwise.

ZIGZAG WIDTH CONTROL DIAL

For wider zigzag stitch, select a higher
number.
When twin needle is used, zigzag must be limited between positions "0" and "3" on the dial (use of twin needle in position higher than "3" will result in needle striking needle plate).
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STITCH LENGTH CONTROL DIAL

• Numbers on dial denote length of stitches.
• To increase length of stitch, turn dial to higher number.
STITCH LENGTH GUIDE
Numbers on dial
Stitches per inch
0
No Feed 24
1

REVERSE STITCH BUTTON.

• Use for reverse stitching or tacking.
• Keeping button pressed in will allow you to sew reverse stitch
same length as forward stitch.
2
12
3 4
8 6
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APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STITCH

SEAMS

The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen
depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to
strength and elasticity to the seam.
Pattern:
.......
Length: 2 Width: 0 Feed Dog:. Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2

BASTING/TOPSTITCHING

Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting. Basting stitches also may be used when gathering in fullness.
Topstitching can be done very effectively with the long straight stitch. For a bolder stitch, two threads of the same type can be threaded through one needle (size 14 or 16). A heavier thread such as buttonhole twist may be used for topstitching, but be sure to use a larger needleisize
16 or 18). Left needle position may be used for more support of fabric.
Pattern:
Length: 4 Width: 0 Feed Dug: Pressuie: Nnrmal Foot: All Put|)Ose
Needle Position: 2 or 1

DARNING

Worn spots or small holes can be darned very easily. Use of an
embroidery hoop is optional depending on the fabric. A fine thread is recommended so that the fabric and thread will blend together invisibly.
Trim the ragged edges from the area to be darned, Hold the threads to
start, then move the fabric slowly back and forth while running the machine very fast to fill the area. More professional results will be attained by moving the fabric in a figure eight pattern while sewing.
After filling in the area lengthwise, reweave with crosswise stitches in the same manner.
should
require
add
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Pattern: ­Length: 0 Width: 0 Feed Dog: Pressure: Darn Foot: None or All
Purpose
Needle Position: 2
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ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

Wind elastic thread onto bobbin, as shown, let^ ting the thread pass through your fingers. The thread should be wound smoothly without stret ching. Place bobbin in case as usual, being sure that the elastic is drawn through the tension. Use regular thread on the top of the machine. Do a trial run on the chosen fabric to test length of stitch. Lay a piece of paper under the fabric to keep it from gathering up as you sew. This will enable you to sew many parallel rows of stitching without difficulty. Afterwards tear out the paper and the fabric will be gathered.
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F’rcssuM!; Nomiai Foot: All F’(if|)!)So
NtM-’filtt Position: 2
4

• HOLDING THE FABRIC

For most fabrics, it is not necessary to hold the fabric in both front and back. Merely guide the fabric with one hand
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from the front. For the fine delicate fabrics,
such as chiffon, geogrette, and tricot, the best resits will be at tained by holding the fabric in front and back of the needle without pulling on it.

. TURNING CORNERS

To pivot at a corner, leave the
needle in the fabric while on the upswing so that the stitch is almost completed, thus preven ting the possibility of skipped stit ches in the corner. Lift the
presser foot and pivot the fabric.
Then, lower the presser foot and
continue sewing.
• CURVED SEAMS
On a curved seam use a slightly shorter stitch length than you are using
for the rest of the seams. For example, if length 2 is being used for the
seams, a 1-1/2 stitch length would be preferred for curves. A smaller stitch length will add strength and elasticity to the seam.
When guiding the fabric, keep your fabric edge on the etched seam guide line directly across from the needle rather than on the forward part of the line. The seam guide may be used on an angle as shown.
16

• ENDING SEAM/REMOVAL OF FABRIC

Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then press the reverse stitch button and
backstitch for a few stitches to reinforce the end of the seam. Turn the hand wheel until the take up lever is in its highest position so that the stitch is completed and the threads will pull freely. Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing the threads to the left and back, keeping them under the foot so as not to bend the needle. Cut the threads with the thread cutter on the back of the presser bar. Leave the thread ends three to four inches long.
APPLICATIONS OF THE ZIGZAG STITCH

OVERCASTING

Place the edge of the material underneath the opening of the sewing foot and guide raw edge along the center groove of the foot, allowing stitch to form half on and half off the fabric. The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser choice for most fabrics. See page(21).
Pattern: AAA Lenght: 2 4
Width: 4-5 Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2
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SEAMING KNITS

The narrow zigzag can be used in seams of firm knits for added strength. After sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the seam will give when stret^ ched.
Pattern: /Wy Lenght: 2 Width: 1-2
Feed Dog: A A
Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2
17
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SEWING ON BUTTONS

Zigzag stitching is a very easy and convenient
method of sewing on button without a shank. Place the button so its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the button sewing foot. Take a stitch in the hole.
Raise the needle and move zigzag width dial to
the right until the needle comes down exactly
over the right hole in the button.
Note: Be sure the needle dears the holes of the
button by moving the hand wheel by hand before running the machine fast.
Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for securing a button in place. Stop with the needle in the left
hole. To lock the threads, set the stitch width at
0, and take a few stitches in the left hand hole.
Pattern; A/V\ Lenght: 0 Width; 2 5 Feed Dog; J[S Pressure; Normal
p
a
Foot; Button Foot Needle Position; 1
1
1
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FORMING THREAD SHANK ON BUTTON

Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should have thread shank to make them stand away from th fabric. To form a thread shank, sew over a pin c rounded toothpick which can be inserted directI
into the button sewing foot. After stitching the button to the fabric, remov
work from under the presser foot leaving threat
about six inches from fabric. Remove pin c toothpick. Pull the threads to back of button an form a shank between button and fabric b winding threads tightly around the attaching sti
ches. Pull threads to back of the fabric and the tie thread ends securely.
18

• ENDING SEAM/REMOVAL OF FABRIC

Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then press the reverse stitch button and backstitch for a few stitches to reinforce the end of the seam. Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever is in its highest position so that the stitch is completed and the threads will pull freely. Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing the threads to the left and back, keeping them under the foot so as not to bend the needle. Cut the
threads with the thread cutter on the back of the presser bar. Leave the thread ends three to four inches long.
APPLICATIONS OF THE ZIGZAG STITCH

OVERCASTING

Place the edge of the material underneath the opening of the sewing foot and guide raw edge along the center groove of the foot, allowing stitch to form half on and half off the fabric. The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser choice for most fabrics. See page(21).
Pattern: AAA LeiKjtil: 2 4 Width: 4 5
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2
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SEAMING KNITS

The narrow zigzag can be used in seams of firm knits for added strength. After sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the seam will give when stret-
"ched.
Patterii: АЛЛ Lenght: 2 Width: 1-2
Feed Dog: A A
Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2
17
К

SEWING ON BUTTONS

Zigzag stitching is a very easy and convenient
method of sewing on button without a shank. Place the button so its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the button sewing foot. Take a stitch in the hole. Raise the needle and move zigzag width dial to the right until the needle comes down exactly over the right hole in the button.
Note: Be sure the needle dears the holes of the
button by moving the hand wheel by hand before running the machine fast.
Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for securing a button in place. Stop with the needle in the left
hole. To lock the threads, set the stitch width at
0, and take a few stitches in the left hand hole.
PatU!fn: A/V\
Lenijht: 0
Wiiltl); 2 5 Fef?d Dog: jBE Prffssurf;;
p
a 1
1
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Button Font
Nfitfcilu Position: 1

FORMING THREAD SHANK ON BUTTON

Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should have thread shank to make them stand away from th
fabric. To form a thread shank, sew over a pin c
rounded toothpick which can be inserted directI into the button sewing foot.
After stitching the button to the fabric, remov work from under the presser foot leaving thread about six inches from fabric. Remove pin c
toothpick. Pull the threads to back of button an form a shank between button and fabric b winding threads tightly around the attaching sti ches. Pull threads to back of the fabric and the
tie thread ends securely.
18
s
I

SATIN STITCHING

This is useful for decoration such as tapering,
manual designed embroidery, monogramming, and applique.
The satin stitch, which is a very close zigzag stitch, is obtained by setting the stitch length as near to "0" as possible without stopping the feeding action. The setting will vary for different fabrics. It may be desirable to loosen the upper tension slightly to cause the threads to lock underneath, in order to make the top surface
look especially smooth. For lightweight fabrics,
place paper underneath the fabric while sewing for best results.

TAPERING/CREATIVE EMBROIDERY

Tapering is done by gradually increasing and decreasing the stitch width while sewing. By this
method, tapered monograms and other in
teresting designs can be created. For tapered monograms run the machine fast while turning the width dial slowly from narrow to wide and back.
First, learn this stroke by letting the fabric guide straight. Then, learn to pivot the fabric as you are tapering by holding the fabric at one point. Various strokes can be combined to form letters and designs. Variegated thread can give attrac tive results.
P,ytlem: AAA Longhl: '/2 ’/3
Width: 0 5 Fetxi Dog: AA Prtissiirfo Normal Foot: All Purpose
vb'
Needle Position: 2,1 or 3
Pattern: /\AA
Length: % ’/3 Width: 15 Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal Fool: All Purpose
Needle Position: 2
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MANUAL EMBROIDERY DESIGNS

Different designs can be made by turning the
stitch width dial between 0 and 5. By running the
machine at a constant speed and turning the dial in a definite rhythm, various designs can be
created.
19
Pattern: A/NA Length: !4 1/3
Width: 0 5
Feed Dog: Ptssuie: Notmttl
Foot: All Puipo.se Needle Position: 2, 1 01 3
i a !
k
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PiilK-ni /\ДД
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Frril Г)<«|: ЖЖ
Nni II'
Ne.

FREE HAND MONOGRAMMING

For giving garments and linens a personalized touch, first transfer the design
the right side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is recommended especiall’j
for soft fabrics and toweling.In order to monogram, you must move the fat
slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by movii the paper under a stationary pen. Guide the fatrric slowly so that ilie zigzag f
close togetlier like a satin stitch, but be careful tltal the stitches do not pile ii|
When guiding from side to side, move fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy
area.
Practice try foiming loops. Once this is accomplished any lettr-r is easy,
Somrnimes the use of paper or non woven interfacing uii(iei the fabric
may makr; guiding the fabric easier. Tfte ¡taper or interfacing may be torn cut away iit tlu; completion of the monogram. Wfien iTKtnogramming towe
cellopltane ¡tiaced on tfie top will Itelt) cover loojts and make the monograi smooth. Pull oi cut away remaining cellofthane when finisht.af.
11 i .c-yy\
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APPLIQUE

Applying decorative shaftes of falrnc sciaps to household articles and dotiti
is a very interesting wtiy of trimming an otlirti wise ¡jlam ai tidit. First, h
the design on fabric to (te applicjutid, thiai ¡tin or ttaste it securely in (tktce garment. With a small straight stitch or narrow zigzag, sew around the transferreci design. After excess ftilrric is trimmeti away, srtw aiound the applique with a satin stitcft. For a sntootli curve, sto[) frequently at the insic edge of the curve to pivot lite fabric slightly. Corners look mudt better wh the point is stitched by pivoting rather than just turnrrd.
As with all decorative stitches, paper may he used to give more body to tht
fabric wften stitching and can be torn away wlten the ap|)liqiie is completi;
20

GATHERING OVER CORD

Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch often
breaks while pulling in fullness. A small zigzag across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering fullness into fabrics. Once the gathers have been
stitched in place, the cord can be pulled out in
order to eliminate bulk.
fY
Pattern: /SAA Lengtii: 2 Width: 3 Feed Dog: Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 1
AA
APPLICATIONS OF THE MULTIPLE STITCH ZIGZAG

OVERCASTING

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent choice
for overcasting. It keeps the fabric flat and
prevents raveling. For most fabrics, this stitch is better than the zigzag stitch for overcasting.
The stitch should fall right at the raw edge of the fabric. Feed the fabric under the presser foot by guiding the raw edge along the right hand side of the hole in the presser foot.
Pattern: Length: ’/4 1J4 Width: 4 5 Feed Dog: Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 5
A A
A
IW
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Pattern: Length: ’A 1 Width: 4 5 Feed Dog: A.A. Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 5
PATCHING
The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent stitch for patching. It is stronger than the zigzag and the tiny stitches bury into the fabric to make an almost invisible stitch when using matching thread.
Place the patch over the right side of the worn or damaged area. Sew around the patch with the multiple stitch zigzag letting the last stitch to the right overcast the edge of the patch. When turn ing corners leave the needle in the fabric at the corner. Usually this will be the furthest stitch to the right or left. In this way, the corners are doubly stitched and very strong. When the patch is stitched in place, trim away the excess worn
fabric on the wrong side of the patch.
Note: Try Smocking Stitch for knits.
21
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Width 4 h
( IM.(I l)n(,, aA
f’tdSSUH! Ndiintil
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P;itK;m Sfilf.’ctor; 5

MENDING A TEAR OR INSTANT DARNING

The multiple stitch zigzag provides a strong an easy repair for torn garments. It gives an almo; invisible mend, especially when a fine darnin
thread is used. To mend a tear, hold the torn edges clos
together and stitch down the middle.
If the tear is guided under the slot in the micid of the presser foot, stitching will Ire equal c both sides. If necessary, sew again on either sic of the first row of stitching making sure tl needle catches the stitch in the center. With vt:i worn or frayed falrric, place a ¡liece of ligh weight interfacing or cotton batiste under tt
tear for reinforcement.
Note: Try Smocking Stitch for knits.

LACE APPLICATIONS

Attaching laces or trims adds a special touch to
lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or haste lact;s In place easitrg or mitering corners where neces
sary. A straight edged lacr; or braid has a convenitait
line to follow when sewing. Wlien using a scalloped edged lace follow the design of the
lace for an almost invisilrle application.
Note: Try Multiple Stitch Zigzag, Overlook,
Elastic Edge Stitch, Smocking stitch,
Stretch Overlook or Rick Rack for differ
ent effects.
22
t..|M|lh I
WhIiIf I ?
Pi.-.snn- Ni
(iH,| AM Pm Nr..(IM' P.mil
AAA
I On,I ^

FLUTTER HEM

An unusual way of hemming or finishing edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter edge. Hemm ing in this manner is just like overcasting an
edge, but the fabric is stretched in back and in front of the needle as you sew. For best results, pull the fabric equally, making sure the needle goes over the edge. When you stop to reposition your hands, keep the needle in the fabric.

ELASTIC APPLICATION

Applying elastic to lingerie or soft knit fabrics is easy when using the multiple stitch zigzag. Cut the elastic 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. Overlap the raw ends to form a circle and stitch with a tiny zigzag to form a box
as shown. Fold the elastic into quarters or eighths
and mark with pins. Do the same with the waist line of the garment. Place the elastic about 1/2 inch from the top edge of the fabric, matching
the pins. Place under the presser foot and begin stitching. As you stitch, place the forefinger of each hand on the fabric at either side of the presser foot. Pull the fabric out exactly at the
point where the needle is sewing over the elastic and the fabric. This will ease your fabric and elastic together as you sew. The amount of ease
Pattern: ,"v v".
Length: % V/2
Width; 4-5 Feed Dog: AA.
Pressure: Noirnal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 5
is dependent on how much you ease the fabric. In this way you never need to stretch the elastic, which can be damaged and stretched out of
shape. Trim off excess fabric above elastic near
the stitches.
A/ote: Try Overlock stitch or Smocking stitch for
girdles.
Pattern: /\/V\ Length: % Width: 4-5 Feed Dog: A.A Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position: 2
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23

UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent choice for understitching and eliminating bulk in facing seam allowances. After attaching the facing to the garment, trim and clip the seam allowance as usual. Press the seam allowances toward the facing and use the
multiple stitch zigzag close to the seam, stitching through the facing and the seam allowances. Using a matching thread, the stitch will blend in to the fabric and prevent excess bulk. This is much more successful than a straight stitch for understitching. It really helps to keep the facings
from rolling.
Note: Try Smocking Stitch for knits.
PitUiirn: /‘v'vT L urujlit: 1 2 Wtdth: 4 5 FfffMi Dog: F’fffssuM.*: Nomiul Foot; Ail Purpose Pattern Selector: 5
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DECORATIVE EFFECTS

As with the irlind hem stitch, the tiiultiple sti zigzag can be used for many decorative con nations. If the stitch is pivoted when thr; net reaches the far left or right of its swing, and points are carefully matched, a tracery cJiamc shape results.
On the other hand, if rows of the multiple sti
zigzag are sewn with the points falling direr
under each other, a wavy pattern is produce Flowers may also be produced. Start in cen
pivot at points shown. Add four more petal desired.
Partem: ,'VV
Lirngtli: 1 Wiilth: 3 5 Feed Dog: Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 5
24
APPLICATIONS OF THE BLIND HEM STITCH
BLIWD HEMMING
The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem
linish that is almost invisible on garments, drapes, .ind curtains. It is done easily with straight or slightly curved hems. With a little practice it will
be a very quick and easy hem application and the
tiem will never need repairing.
Procedure:
Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner, such as overcast, 1/4 inch stitched under, pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step 1)
Fold hem up desired length. Baste or pin 1/2
inch from upper edge. Press in place. (Step 2)
Fold hem back toward right side of fabric leav ing about 1/4 inch extended. (Step 3)
Adjust your stitch width and needle position so that the zigzag bite of the stitch just slightly catches the fold of the fabric. The straight stitches should be formed on the single thickness of fabric, and the zigzag bite should catch just barely into the, fold of the fabric at the left.
When stitching is completed, remove fabric from machine and turn to right side. Press completed hem.
_A__A_
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When hemming an A-line skirt, place a machine h.istmg stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At
ir, ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the
.cums. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling on hasting thread. Press with steam, then apply iicrn tape. Baste or pin hem 1/2 inch from taped
• then continue into step 3.
Pattern: _h _ _ A . Length: 1-2
Width: 3-5 Feed Dog: AA. Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 4
25
mg 111% iii^
k

SHELL TUCK

The blind hem stitch gives a very effective and
easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, pillow cases, and decorative finishes. This works well on knits or on the bias of soft, woven fabrics. A single folded bias tape may be tucked in this manner, and then applied under a fold for a decorative hem on pillowcases or applied with the facings at the neckline or armhole for a
decorative finish. Set the upper tension dial to a little bit tighter
position than normal. Fold under the edge where the shell tuck is to be created. Place the bulk of
the fabric to the right of the needle with the fold ed edge to the left. Place the fabric so that the folded edge will be guiding into the center cut of the foot. The straight stitches will form on the fabric, and the zigzag bite will swing to the left
off of the folded edge. The shell edge is created
as the needle swings back onto the fabric. The
size of the "shell" can be varied by changing the
stitch length.
DECORATIVE EFFECTS
By sewing two adjacent rows of blind hem i
1—6—1
ching on lace or ribbon attractive decorations created. The stitch may be pivoted when
<i>
zigzag bite swings to the left and the points n ched in the second row.
Another variation alternates the zigzag bite; the center of the straight stitched segment,
stitch may also be pivoted after two straight; ches to form a snowflake-like pattern
Pattern:
_/\_A_
glh: P2
Width 4 b
Feed Piossuri!’ Normal Foot: All Purpose
:x:x;i:xxx
Pattern Selector: 4

TOPSTITCHING EFFECTS

A new kind of topstitching effect can be proc ed by couching a strand or two of pearl coi embroidery floss, or yarn with the blind I stitch. Simply guide the cord through the
groove of the embroidery foot so that the b hem stitch sews over the cord and not thro it. The straight stitches of the blind hem st will bury themselves along the right side of cord. The sewing thread should match as do
as possible to blend into the fabric.
P<»'«"'- -A_7L
Lriiigtli: 12 Width: 2 4 Feed Dog: A.A.
Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 4
Pattern: J\_A_ Length: 1’/2-2y2
Widtii: 4 b
Feed Dotj:_JtA­Pressure: Norma! Foot: All Purpost! Pattern Selector; 4
26

DECORATIVE STITCHES

-0——

DOOC

applications of the interlock f\J\

INGERIE SEAM

or a very fine, delicate seam in nylon tricot or
;fsey, the interlock is used. Lingerie or tricot earns should only be about 1/8 inch in finished
vidth. t your pattern has wide seams, trim them down
u 1/4 inch while cutting out the pattern. Guide t ie raw edges of the fabric into the center slot of tie presser foot. On the right, the needle will
iitch over the edge resulting in a finished 1/8
Jttern: JXJXTL
• ■ ngth : 1-1/2
./idth: 4-5
-i!d Onn- A A
•essure: Normal
.int: All Purpose Littern Selector: 6
nserting lace
I very fine lace insertion can be made with the
iterlock. As in applying lace with the zigzag titch, follow the straight line or the design of the
1. e. (See page 22). Sew so that the straight
titch of the interlock is on the fabric and the
■ nail zigzag catches into the lace.
Combining rows of decorative stitch patterns is an easy, inexpensive way to create your own braids and trims for garments and household articles. Blending or contrasting colors of thread
may be used to compliment the color of the
fabric. Illustrations will give some of the attrac
tive stitch combinations.
Pattern: As desired
Length: As desired Width: As desired Feed Dog: A.A Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2
PJTJWjmnimimj
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Pattern: _A_A_A­Length:1 —IVa Width: 2
Feed Dog:j|ulL Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 6
njlAiinjmAAaAAAAAAAA
k
27
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRETCH BLIND HEM
HEMMING
The stretch blind hem stitch gives a stretcliy, durable hem finish to knit fabrics. Tlie two tiny zigzag stitches enable the hem to stretch with the fabric. It may also prevent woven fabrics from raveling. Proceed as for the regular blind
hem stitch on page (25).
/AwV\
lrnyih.1-2
VVtiHlr 4-5
fPMTl DiH|: MA. Plt'SSlIft:. Nmnn-il
Foot AH FHiiptisi-
Pattefn Seiectijc: 7
EDGING
The stretch blind hem stitch can Ite used as an
edging, like the blanket stitdr clone by hand. By using a fairly short stitch length, die stitches he very close together. It can be used for over casting and finishing the edges of tableclotns,
napkins and ruffles. The edge may be turned u|) about T./2 inch and then overcast with the stretch blind hem. Cord or pearl cotu.m may Ite
used to give a raisrrd effttcl to itic stiti.lies
Simply place 2 4 strands of pearl cotton or cm broidery floss unt.lef tfie fool and stitoh over ii.
Fcnir-n,
PatliMU Seitictitf. 7
EYELASH BUTTONHOLE
A unique way of reinforcing buUt)nfi(.)les on
loosely woven fabrics or buttonholes in which tfre stitches have been accidently cut, is to over cast them with a short stretcfi blind hem stitch. Overcast each side of the buttonfiole so the far
right stitch falls into the opening of the Itutton hole and the small zigzag stitclies covet Hie previous buttonhole side. On completion of one side of the buttonhole, pivot the fabric with the needle at the far right in tfie opening of th.e buttonhole at the bartack. Sew up the other side
in the same manner,
Pciilftm' aAwV
LciKith: Ti
Widlli: 4 !.)
Fet'd DiMj- .AA.
(deesiiri!: Noim.il
Foot: AH Pu(|)ose
Pattern Selector: 7
28
BUTTONHOLES
Various fabrics require various methods of sewirig buttonholes. Four different methods are given below, with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which method is best for your fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished appearance.
PREPARATION
For the best results, a good quality merceriz ed cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be. An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to give body, to strengthen, and to help them withstand wear. To establish the correct length of the buttonhole, add the diameter of the button (A), plus the thick ness of the button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the bartacks. The length may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch, tailors chalk, or transparent tape, as shown. Another way to make sure that all buttonholes will be the same size is to cut a piece of cardboard as wide as the buttonhole foot and long enough to make the distance between the toe of the white slide and the cardboard the size buttonhole needed. This method works for buttonholes up to 1-1/8 inches long.
Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8 inch beyond the center line of the garment.
Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the
cutting space of the buttonhole is directly on
the center line. Always make a practice
buttonhole on a scrap of the garment fabric before making any buttonholes on your gar
ment. On your test sample, duplicate the thickness found in the garment and be sure to include the interfacing. The test sample should help determine the length needed for the button to pass through easily, and the stitch length for the particular fabric. As with the satin stitch, the stitches should be close together, but not so close that they pile up.
Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.
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29
Center line of Garment
fl
--1 j L-i"
Mm)
¡Ri -
Paitorn /V\A
Length: Width: 4 5 Feed Doy: AA Pressur: Normal Foot; Buttonhole
Pattern Selector; D-D-a
PiitfeiH Sclfictof and
ZiQ/ay Width Contiui Ditil
Pallnfn SeltM-!iu and
Ziy/ay Wi(hh Contiiil Dia!
PatUan Sidi-ctn'
itj/ay Witilh Dial
BUILT IN BUTTONHOLER
This buttonhole eliminates the need for pivoting the fabric. It is used most often on light and medium woven fabrics.
1. Set the buttonhole control dial at the (#2) buttonhole picture. Lower the needle into the mark at the top end of the buttonhole. Lower the presser foot. A few stitches will be made for the bartack,
# 2, turn to # 1 than the stitching will sew
the left side in forward.
Stop when the stitching reaches the bot^ tom end of marked buttonhole. At this position the machine will be sewing in for^
ward.
2. With the needle up, select the (#4) four
buttonhole picture. A few bartack stit
ches will be made, turn to 3 than the stit
ching will sew the right side in reverse.
If using cardboard the white nylon slide
will run into the carboard to prevent sew
ing into the bartack.
3. To lock the stitch, make sure the needle is out of the fabric. Make sure the pattern control dial is at straight stitch and take a
few stitches.
4. Score the buttonhole with the back edge of the seam ripper several times. To pre vent cutting through the bartack, insert a straight pin through the bartack. Cut buttonhole open with the s<jam ripper.
Note: Stitch Width Control should always
be at “0" while sewing this button hole.
Adjustment of stitch density;
Check the stitch density on a scrap of fabric. If density is too open or too close, re adjust by turning stitch length dial.
30
TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLES
It is possible to make small and dainty buttonholes if you desire or repair damaged buttonholes. This entails a slight shifting of the cloth but with some practice, good buttonholes can be achieved.
1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the
cloth as shown in figure.
2. Set the needle position to the left and
your stitch length dial near "1/4" or the
density your desire.
3. Choose the desired width of your botton-
hole. Example: if you want a buttonhole with a
width of # 3 setting on the stitch width dial, divide this setting in half, or V/z
4. Start at your marked position, sew down on the left side of buttonhole to the other end of marking. Leave the needle in the cloth at the right side of stitches and
rotate your cloth. Lift the presser foot and
slide the bottom of the foot back to the front.
5. Lower the foot and raise the needle. Reset your stitch width dial to bartack, in this case the # 3 setting, set your feed to
▲A sew several stitches.
6. Raise the needle, raise feed to, AA reset
the zigzag width to the initial setting, in this case #V/z and sew the other side of buttonhole to your mark, then repeat your
bartack 15).
7. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches at 0 witdh. Cut buttonhole as indicated previously.
When using this method over a buttonhole which has already been slit or damaged, be
sure to hold the buttonhole open and allow the needle to go off the edge of the fabric.
Step 4 is all that may be needed to repair
damaged buttonholes.
Pattern: /\/V\ Length:
Width: 2%-5-2K-5-0 Feed Dog: AA-XZ Pressure: Normal Foot: Buttonhole Needle Position: 1
Step 1 Step 2
Step 3
31
Step 4
CORDED BUTTONHOLES
Cording gives a reinforced raised button hole. It IS excellent for use on bulky, wovei fabric, oi knits in which the stitching otter gets buried and makes (tutting difficult. Oi
knits, a cordtHl buttonliole will helji keep th< fabric from stretching out of shape.
Choose a fujavy cotton crocfiet tfiread o buttonliole twist to us(! for the cording. Pro ceed as fot either builtan buttonhok; tpagi
30) or the turnaiound buttonhole (page 31) having the cord undet the (iresset foot ii such a way that llie /ig/ag stitcli covers th cord. When pivoting the buttonhole, als< swing tlie cord arouncJ to f(,)ll<)w undet th
second side. At the completion of tlie buttonhole suit) th
excess cord close to the bartack on wovi; fafincs. For knitted gaim»;nts, always pu
the cords to the wiong side bv using a dan ing nettdie oi needle thieadta, tind knot th con) ends liefore dipping
Built in Buttonholoi
(■.Ilonr /VV\
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Turn-around^Buttonfityle;
P.illi’in /Vd\ Iciujlh
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Fyi'SsuH*: Nnttii.li
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32
STRETCH BUTTONHOLES
This buttonhole is used on knit fabrics when
it is desirable to omit interfacing or cording. This buttonhole will stretch and return to shape unlike an ordinary zigzag buttonhole. The v/v\7\. pattern of the stitch makes the buttonholes nearly invisible when using mat ching thread. It is excellent to use on jerseys, double knits, and sweater fabrics.
1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the
cloth as shown in.
2. Select the overlook stitch (# ii).
3. Set the needle to the left and the stitch
length dial to 4.
4. The width should be set at 2'A .
5. start at the marked position, sew down the left side of the buttonhole to the other
end of the marking. Leave the needle in the cloth at the right side of the stitches and rotate your cloth. Lift the presser foot and slide the bottom of the foot back.
6. Lower the presser foot and raise the needle. Reset your stitch width to make a bartack at width 5. Set your feed dog to XX sew a few stitches.
7. Raise the needle, raise the feed dog to
XX , reset the width to 2% and sew the
second side of the buttonhole, to the end of the buttonhole mark, reset the width to 5, the feed dog to XX and sew a few stit ches for the second bartack.
8. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches at 0 width. Cut the buttonhole as indicated
previously.
Step 1
Step 3
Step 2
/1
J
Step 4
Pattern: tTWV Length: 4
Width: 2’/r5-2'/j-5-0 Feed Dog: aa-X1^­Pressure Normal
Foot: Buttonhole Pattern Selector: 11
A4-XS
33
Step 5
Step 6
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH

SEAMS

This stitch may be used on knits and woven fabrics,
in areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is ex cellent for curved seams such as armholes and crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in bending and stretching, this stitch may be used for seaming
throughout the garment.
CAUTION: It is difficult to remove this stitch from
fubni. PreUit garment before using this stitch.
’ Feed Dog: M J k -
____
Pattern: = Length: 4 Width: 0
Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 8

TOPSTITCHING (STRETCH STITCHES)

Because this stitch is heavier than an ordinary straight stitch, it is ideal for topstitching, particu larly on knits.
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Piessuie: Normal foul All Purpose Panelli Selector:8

PROCEDURE;

The elastic triple straight stitch is used when a straight line of stitching is desired so that seams may be pressed open (slacks for example).
This stitch is especially useful where the tiny zigzag seam will not hold its shape and the straight stitch will break.
Apply this stitch to areas of stress on both wovens and knits (crotch seam and under arm for example).
Use this stitch for tightly fitted garments that need a lot of stretch, such as ski pants, girdles and bathing suits.
If puckering becomes a problem, use the straight stitch foot.
ifir
Elastic Triple Straight Stitch
Regular Straight Stitch
34
APPLICATION OF THE RICK-RACK

TOPSTITCHING/RICK-RACK

A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a decorative inset to add an additional creative flair.
Pattern: //AW/AW Length: 4 Width: 4 5 Feed Dog: AA Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 8

TAPERING/RICK-RACK

The rick-rack stitch may be tapered to form creative stems and petals of flowers, embroidered pictures and wall hangings. As in tapering the zigzag, See
Page (19), slowly turn the stitch width dial from 0
to 5 and back to 0. A group of these tapered rick
rack stitch will from a bouquet-like effect.
Pattern: /Ш М Length: 4 Width: 0 5 0 Feed Dog: AA. Pressure: Normal Foot: All Pirrpose
Pattern Selector: 8
oa 1
The elastic rick-rack stitch is a zigzag line of stit
ching that is desired so that seams may be press ed open.
Apply this stitch to areas of stress on both wovens and knits.
Use narrow width of zigzag as a heavy duty triple stitch for seams.
Use medium and wide widths of zigzag for over casting edges of seams, facings and hems of
heavier weight fabrics such as terrycloth, and for attaching elastic. Use also for decorative stit
ching.
3 4 HO
35
Ziy/fjy F-()0!
Elastic Tiiph; Zicj/ay Stitch
/ ' МЛЛЛЛЛл1чЛ^^ЛА^
AAA^ZN/y''
/Recjular Ziyzaq SiiicFt /
Guide your fabric from the front. Do not pull or push as it will
cause poor stitching.
^ ' I /
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APPLICATION STRETCH OVERLOCK
On fabrics that are bulkier or heavier, tf^e stretch overlock is a better choice than the overlock. In all methods proceed as you would for the overlook,
see page (37), except feed the fabric with the bulk
to the right. The stitch is less dense and will prevent soft stretchy knits from rippling.
Pattern: yyv Length: 4
Width: 4 5 Feed Dog: Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 9
APPLICATIONS SMOCKING STITCH
This stitch is very versatile and can be corded or
used as a topstitch as other reverse stitch patterns.
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A
N D

SEAMING SMOCKING STITCH

The smocking stitch can be used to seam fine gauze type fabrics or bulky sweater knits, this results in less bulk for a finished 1/4 inch seam. Follow the directions for overlook seam on Page (37).
Pattern: Length: 4 Width: 4-5 Feed Poo: AA Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 10

ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

Cuffs and bodices of little girls dresses can be shir^ red easily with the smocking stitch. Place the right side of the garment down on the bed of the machine. Place two strands of elastic thread under the foot. Stretch the elastic thread while sewing with the smocking stitch to gather cuffs or bodice for a feminine effect.

PROCEDURE:

The smocking stitch is a very useful special ultra stretch stitch.
Lingerie or tricot seams should only be about 1/8 inch finished width.
Fagoting can be achieved by joining the folded edge of two piece of fabric together with a gap between them. Use a sheer flesh colored piece of fabric underneath to make the fagoting much stronger and prettier.
Do the fagoting with a piece of paper underneath
and remove the paper by hand washing.
Paitern Selector and
Zigzag Width Control Dial
Overlap seam
Paper
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0
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1
V
E
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S
36
APPLICATIONS OVERLOOK STITCH

SEAMING OVERLOOK STITCH

This stitch gives a finished 1/4 inch seam in one step. For knits, it gives strength and elasticity to the seams and prevents the curling of the fabric that
often occurs with 5/8 inch opened seams. It is most applicable to soft, thin knits such as nylon or acetate knits, but may be used on other fabrics as well. Always make test seams with this stitch.
For woven fabric, the overlock stitch gives strength and prevents raveling. It can tte used on woven goods to replace flat felled or French seams.
For patterns with 1/4 inch seams. Place the raw edge of the fabric under the presser foot so that as the needle swings to tfit; right, it comes down at the
raw edge. This will result in an raiclosed seam allowance.
For patterns witli 5/8 inch t
The seam allowances ntay
either before or cfior c.iwi
sewing, proceed as aturvt
seam wllfi the raw edgr' ot tire falrnc on the etcherl
guide line "1/2" (Any time you use the full widtii of a particular stitcli, you shouiri retidjust the raw edge of the fabric 1/8 inch to the left.) Afterward, trim the excess fabric near the stitching. This metliod is actually easier than thrr overedge metfiod for fabrics
that curl.
Note: On soft, loose knits, the fabric may seem to
wave or ripple. If this occurs, reduce the
pressure. (Page 10 ).
■ams:
:■ trimmed to 1/4 inch
■j. If irimmmg before wise, sew tire
tool: ли РшПиы;
p.illcrm SiiUicloi I'

HEMSTITCHING EFFECT

By using a very large needle and a fine thread an openwork effect can Ire attained winch is beautiful for sewing tfie hems into tafrleclrrths, napkins,
placemats, handkerchiefs, etc. Use a large needle, size 18 or 20, and a fine cotton thread. Tighten the upper tension slightly, until the stitch looks bott(;r
on the underside tfian on top. (You will be sewing with your fabric faci! side down.)
Turn u,. 1 inch then turn up 1 inch again to form a
hem of a double tliickness of fabric. The bulk in cor ners can be eliminated by trimming away tfie ex cess, as shown, after having folded the fabric orr all sides. Stitch from the wrong side, so that the straight stitch forms on the single layer and tfie zigzag bites on the double layer. Stitch all the way to the edge of the fabric along all sides.
37
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1
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inch
1
3 D.
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TOPSTITCHIIMG OVERLOOK

The overlook stitch can be used to topstitch non raveling fabrics such as felt or leather into place for appliques or pockets.
Stitch so that the straight part of the stitch is form ed over the edge of the leather, and only the zigzag part holds it in place.
Pattern: ZyVS Length: 4
Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: AA Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 11
f'tilloin St'IncIct cimi
/iti/at) Widlfi Didl
OfT

PROCEDURE:

Overlock stitching is used for sewing overlapping seams, decorative hems, binding and edges on woven and elastic fabrics.
To sew an overlapping seam, place one piece of fabric 1 cm over the other piece and sew the
flatlock stitch over the fabric edge on the right side.
You can produce a decorative hem by folding a
single hem on the wrong side and sewing the flatlock from the right side.
Use knit trim or bias binding when binding
curved edges, like round necks and armhols.
38
APPLICATIONS ULTRA STRETCH
JL JL

SEAMING ULTRA STRETCH

On most knits, a 1/4 inch finished seam, such as stitch and overcast or the overlook stitch, is more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam allowance. These stitches can create a neater, more profes sional finish, eliminate bulky seams, prevent curl
ing, permit the garment to "give" under stress, and at the same time they cut down on the amount of work involved in making a garment. If ever in doubt as to which of the two stitches to use, test both on the particular fabric in question and choose accor
ding to their performance. The stitch and overcast stitch is excellent for
stretch fabrics such as sweater knits, bathing suit knits, and cotton knits. It has the greatest strength and elasticity of all.
For patterns with 1/4 inch seam allowances: Feed
the fabric such that the needle goes over the raw
edge of the fabric when it swings to the right. For patterns with 5/8 inch sgam allowajices: Feed
the raw edge of the fabric along the etched guide line "1/2", then trim away the excess fabric close
to the stitching.
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PROCEDURE:

Overlock stitching is used for seaming and finishing the cut edge of knit fabrics, all in one
operation.
This overlook stitch is especially good for stretch fabrics such as double knit and jersey and will
give a firm, neat edge finish.
39
Zlgгag Foot
Overcasting
APPLICATIONS OF THE DECORATIVE FUN PATTERNS

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

The reverse stitch patterns produce duck swiss cross, leaf and butterfly designs for use on house hold linens and children clothes. These reverse
stitch patterns can ht! used to sew in hems as tlie scallop stitch. See Page (23).
Tlie reverse stitch patterns can also be used for
topstitching bindings and ribbons for decorative effect. This is done in the same manner that lace is applied with the zigzag stitch. Sec Page (22). The straight stitched edge of the reverse stitch patterns on the left shoukJ be sewn on t)u; left edge of the
landing or ribfron. This decorative effect can be
used on towels and placemats for a pleasant ap
pearance.
The reverse stitch patterns can also be corded for
stronger decorative edges on placemats and tablecloths. Simply place four strands of pt;arl cotton, embroidery floss or yarn under the presser
foot. The lr;)ns()arent fool will help guide thr; cord (¡vtrnly
while sewing the reverse stitch patterns. The reverse stitch patterns can be sewn with two
threads through one пегкИе for ;r more (tffective decorative stitch. Simply thrt;ad two sriwinij thrrrads through Iht; ufrper thr<;;iding Systran. A
larger needle should btr used to accommodatt! the two threads. Use this decorative irrchnirjur; for enhancing labkicloihs, pkicranais, naftkins, and
curtains.
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40
1
1
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1 1
PARTS DESCRIPTION
1. Thread Take-up Lever
2. Pressure Release (Darning)
3. Top Plate Thread Guide
4. Tension Regulator
5. Top Plate
6. Handle
7. Needle Position and Pattern Selector Dial
8. Zigzag Width Control Dial
9. Bobbin Winder
10. Fly Wheel Clutch
2 3 4 5
11. Fly Wheel
12. Stitch Length Control Dial
13. Reverse Button
14. Drop Feed (under Shuttle Cover)
15. Shuttle Race Cover
16. Feed Dog
17. Needle Plate
18. Thread Guide
19. Thread Guide
20. Face Plate
6 7 8 9
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21. Thread Cutter
22. Needle Clamp
23. Presser Foot Thumb Screw
24. Presser Foot
25. Spool Pins
26. Light Switch
27. Presser Bar Lifter
28. Motor and Belt Cover
41

ACCESSORIES

Straight Stitch Foot
Zigzag Foot (In Machine)
Quilting Guide
O
Felts
Accessory Box
:iiajil
Button Fool
Regular ZiptJer Foot
if ^ ii
Boirbins
Seam Ripper
Oiler
Scrow Drivrrrs
H K tr 0 L- € S
C=^
Needitrs
Twin Needle
42

TWIN NEEDLE SWING

ААААА/\Л
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TWIN NEEDLE SEWING EFFECTS
To use a twin needle in the machine, remove the single
needle, and insert the twin needle into clamp with the flat side to the back. Threading of the machine when using a twin needle is the same as normal with these exceptions:
1. Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on each
spool pin.
2. Hold both threads together as you follow through thread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the tension. Pass on thread through the left disc and one thread through the right disc.
3. Then pass threads through arm thread guide.
When using a twin needle, set the stitch width dial at 2 or
less to prevent needle breakage with a wide stitch. Be sure to use the Middle Needle Position.
Note: Be sure zigzag needle plate and zigzag presser foot
are in place.
Pattern: Any Length:
Width: 0-2
Feed Doa: AA Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2
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DECORATIVE TUCKS OR DESIGNS
Any stitch can be used with the twin needle for decorative effects.
Most attractive are the multiple stitch zigzag and blind hem stitch for fancy tucks. The satin stitch or tapered zigzag designs in two colors are effective for creative trims.
Note: Remember to use no more than a 2 zigzag width for
twin needle sewing.
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43

PIN TUCKS

Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that matches the fabric, produce subtle decoration on plain fabrics. Using the twin needle, sew straight lines on the fabric guiding the edge of the presser foot along each successive tuck to make parallel rows. Soft fabrics will be pulled to form a soft crease. To achieve a tuck on a fabric, increase the lower tension slightly. Heavier fabrics will produce two lines of straight stitching. Attractive pin tucks are made with the
multiple stitch zigzag as well as with a straight stitch.
Note: Trans/jdrent tape makes straight lines easy to sew.
Just sew with the presser foot guiding along the
edge of the tape. When sewing is completed pee! off tape.
Pattern:
---------
Length: 2 4 Width: 0 2
Feed Dog: .Aa Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2
Pattern Selirctor: 5
'S ' j'J

FREE-ARM SEWING

For sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas, use your machine as a free-arm. Stitching buttonholes or sewing buttons on a cuff or neckband; topstitching a sleeve; edge finishes on sleeves, pantlegs and waistlines; darning and patching knees, elbows; and other areas of wear on children's clothing become as easy as sewing a common seam when you have the free-arm at your fingertips. Il lustrations show some examples of sewing with the free
arm.
44

USE OF THE ACCESSORIES

CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
The cording and zipper foot is used to sew in zippers and insert cording.
Zipper:
Set the needle position at "1" or "3" as needed to sew the right side or the left side of zipper respectively, so that the
foot sews very close to the zipper teeth.
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1
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To insert cording:
Set the needle position at "3" and make the welting by sandwiching the cord into a bias strip of fabric. Stitch close to cord.
Set the needle position at "1" Sandwich the welting between two layers of fabric with right sides together. Stitch a second time. The needle stitches close to the cord through all thicknesses.
QUILTING GUIDE
Parallel straight lines are easy to sew with the quilting guide. To attach the guide, slide it into the black clip at the back of the presser foot shank. Adjust the curved bar to the desired distance from the needle. Sew the first line of stitching as desired, and then for the succeeding rows let the guide follow along the previous line of stitching. A straight stitch, zigzag, or any other stitch may be used.
45
The All Purpose Foot
This foot is flat on the bottom and has a wide hole to ac commodate wide stitches. This foot should be used for all
normal sewing.
The Straight Stitch Foot
This foot is flat on the bottom and has only a small hole to accommodate only straight stitching. It may be used on sheer or soft fabrics for more control when the all purpose foot allows the fabric to be pulled with the needle.
- The Buttonhole Foot
This foot has a frame which holds the fabric taut enough to produce a good buttonhole. The markings on the side
allow exact buttonhole length to be made.
• Cording and Zipper Foot
This foot is very narrow, with needle opening cuts at its
right and left sides to sew in zippers and insert cording.
• CHANGING THE FOOT
Press the presser foot shank button toward you to remove the foot (Step 1). To attach place the desired foot under the shank and lower the presser bar (Step 2). Foot will be
locked automatically (Step 3).
46

ADDITIONAL SPECIAL ACCESSORIES

ROLLER FOOT
Ideal for use on vinyls, imitation leathers, jerseys, syn thetics, velvets and denim. This foot helps keep both layers of fabric feeding the same. On very slippery fabrics, the roller foot helps prevent skipped stitches.
OVERCAST FOOT
Zigzag overcasting may tend to roll the edge of some fabrics causing bulky edge. The overcast foot helps to pro
duce a flat edge. The bar behind the needle hole holds the threads firmly in a full width zigzag or overlook stitch to keep the stitches from drawing tightly together.
BLIND HEM FOOT ...
For all those who find machine blind hemming difficult, this foot gives a clear guide for the fold of fabric to follow. The blind hem foot is a fine accessory for those who like the strength and durability of machine hemming.
#353701
#79634
#3710
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ROLLED HEM FOOT
Recommended for narrow rolled hems on scarves, shirts, linens, and linings. This foot makes a very tedious hand sewing job very easy to do on a sewing machine.
FRINGE-FOOT
Thick chenille type loops can add interest to appliqued flowers and animals. Used with a satin stitch this foot gives a plush texture to a design. Also used for hemstit
ching and tailor tacking.
47
#7066
#10570
Caution: Before cleaning the machine, be sure to disconnect
the power cord from the wall outlet.
BOBBIN CASE BOBBIN
NOTCH
SHUTTLE RACE
c
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E
LATCH

CLEANING HOOK ASSEMBLY

1. With take-up lever in highest position, and remove bobbin
case.
2. Turn clamps outward and remove shuttle race cover.
3. Remove shuttle body.
4. Clean thread and lint from all parts, including shuttle race.
5. Run a drop of oil along rim of shuttle body.
6. Replace shuttle body, then shuttle race cover. Snap clamps in to place. .
7. Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and replace, fitting
SHUTTLE RACE COVER
SHUTTLE
BODY
CLAMPS
O
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M
A C H
I
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CLEANING FEED DOGS
Lint or dust accumulated between the needle plate and the feed dogs must be removed to maintain good operation of the
machine.
• Raise the needle bar to the highest position and remove the
needle and presser foot.
• Loosen screw on the bed cover plate and remove the plate.
• Clean lint and dust from the bottom of the needle plate and the
feed dogs with a lint brush.
• Turn the hand wheel slowly and be sure to clean all areas.
• Replace the removed plate.
Check the needle plate area, if there are scratches and marks around the needle hole opening, your machine is not being clean ed properly. Always remove the needle plate and clean the feed dogs periodically. Improper and lack of cleaning will cause an ac cumulation of lint which hampers the feeding mechanism, this in turn will cause the operator to impatiently pull or push the cloth
causing the needle to bend and strike the plate, foot or hook, causing a slip in the timing mechanism. Continuous striking will cause defects making it necessary to call a serviceman.
48
[CHANGING LIGHT BULB ^ ^
Open
the face plate by pulling towards the left. Turn the light buib
I counterclockwise to remove. Replace the bulb by turning
I clockwise.
A majority of service calls could be avoided by following these
procedures and by first checking to see that the machine is:
1. Threaded properly top and bottom.
2. That the bobbin is wound evenly.
3. That the needle is in the machine correctly.
14. Proper cleaning and oiling.

OILING (GENERAL)

OIL
OIL
OIL
OIL
Swing open hinged face plate. Apply one drop of oil at all points indicated by arrows.
OIL
OIL OIL
Using the large screw driver in the accessory box, remove
the two screws on the top plate and remove plate.
OIL
OIL OIL OIL
Remove screw on the bed cover plate and apply oil while turning the hand wheel.
49

MINOR PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

1. SKIPPED STITCHES
Skipped stitches have become a problem in recent years, especially with the appearance of knit fabrics and polyester threads on the market. Skipped stitches normally can be traced to
four basic causes: A. The Needle
The needle is dull or bent. Change it.
(1)
The needle is placed incorrectly in the needle clamp. It is
!2)
either backwards or is not up in the needle clamp all the way.
The wrong type of needle is being used for the fabric.
!3)
Use ball point needle on knits and wedge point needles
for leathers and vinyls. the thread is too thick for the size of needle being used.
(4)
Use a large needle.
The Thread
The machine is threaded incorrectly.
!1)
Many brands of polyester thread are too stiff and coarse
!2)
thus making loop formation difficult or impossible. Change brands or use a cotton thread.
The Presser Foot
C.
¡1) The foot being used is not holding the fabric taut enough
over the needle plate hole, thus the fabric is being pulled up and down while stitching. Use the foot which gives the most control possible for the particular job being
done.
12) There is not enough pressure on the presser bar to hold
the fabric firmly. Increase pressure on the pressure con trol
The Fabric
D.
The fabric has a heavy finish on it which deters stitch for mation. Wash the fabric thoroughly before sewing.
THREAD BREAKING
2.
Machine improperly threaded.
A.
Thread is caught in a slit of the spool or under
B.
the spool
Thread is dry or of poor quality.
C.
Tension is too tight.
D.
Starting the machine with take-up lever in the
E.
wrong position. Always start and end sewing with take-up lever in highest position. Needle is bent, blunt, or has a burr on it.
F.
Needle is not inserted correctly.
G.
Thread is too coarse for needle being used.
H.
Needle plate has been nicked by the needle, thus
is sharp and cuts the threads.
50
3. NEEDLE COMES UNTHREADED
A. Take up lever is not in correct position as you
start sewing. Always start and end with your
take up lever in its highest position.
4. NEEDLE BREAKS
A. Pulling on fabric while sewing bends the needle,
this may cause breakage if needle hits the plate.
B. Needle is inserted incorrectly. C. Needle is too fine for the type of fabric. D. Needle is hitting pins.
Presser foot is improperly fastened.
F. Machine is improperly threaded.
5. MATERIAL PUCKERS
A. Tensions are too tight.
B. Improper threading. C. Thread is too heavy for fabric. D. Stitch is too long for fabric.
E. Needle is dull so it is difficult to seam fabric F. The presser foot being used is not holding the
fabric taut enough.
G. If all else fails, try sewing over paper.
6. THREADS JAM AT START OF SEWING
A. Hold the threads tightly for the first few stitches.
B. Place thread ends under and to the side of
presser foot instead of to the back.
C. Be sure the presser foot is down on thick fabrics.
7. MACHINE IS NOISY
A. Clean and oil it.
B. If it is a punching sound, changing the needle.
C. Stitch length dial is not at 4 when stretch
stitching ^ Set is at 4 .
8. BOBBIN DOES NOT WIND PROPERLY
A. Machine is improperly threaded. B. Rubber wheel on bobbin winder is worn or not
making contact.
C. Bobbin winder tension disc is not in position.
enjoy your new
51
TING READY TO SEW

INDEX

ng the Foot Control
ng the Extnesion Plate......................................................................2
i! Arm Features..................................................................................2
iiigingthe Presser Foot.....................................................................3
inging the Needle.............................................................................^
iiding the Bobbin................................................................................5
ringing the Bobbin..............................................................................6
I eading the Bobbin Case
per Threading ....................................................................................3
on Needle Upper Threading iiusting Feed Dog Height
king Up Lower Bobbin Thread .......................................................10
gulating Pressure..............................................................................lO
ljusting Upper Tension ....................................................................11
ibric/Thread/Needle Chart.............................................................12/13
,notions of Controls ...........................................................................14
rRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG
.
...............................................................
isting/Topstitching
lining..........................................................................^5
astic Thread Shirring
..........................................................................
..................................................................
...............................................................
....................................................................
........................................................
.....................................................
15
16
lolding the Fabric..............................................................16
Liming Corners..................................................................16
urved Seams
tiding Seams/Removal of Fabric
.....................................................................
...............................
16
1 /
ivercasting............................................................................
earning Knits .....................................................................
ewing on Buttons ............................................................
orming Thread Shank on Button
................................
;atin Stitching......................................................................
apering/Creative Embroidery
......................................
danual Embroidery Designs...........................................19
ree Hand Monogramming
..........................................
2U
Applique.................................................................................
Sathering Over Cord Overcasting Patching
...............................................................
....................................................................
Mending a Tear or Instant Darning
.............................................
............................
Lace Applications....................................................
Flutter Hem
...............................................................
Elastic Application...................................................
Understitching Facings Decorative Effects
Blind Hemming Shell Tuck
...............................................................................
....................................................
..............................................................
....................................................................
Decorative Effects..............................................................2b
Topstitching Effects
............................................................
Decorative Stitches.............................................................
Lingerie Seam
Inserting Lace .
.....................................................................
I
^
9
9
15
21 21
.22
.23
44 24
2/
21
23
27
Hemming
.............................................................................
28
Edging......................................................................................
Eyelash Buttonhole............................................................20
BUTTONHOLES
Buttonhole Preparation
...................................................
29
Built In Buttonholer...........................................................30
Turn Around Buttonholes
.................................................
31
Corded Buttonholes............................................................32
Stretch Buttonholes ...........................................................33
STRETCH UTILITY STITCHES
Seams.......................................................................................34
Topstitching (Stretch Stitches)
......................................
Topstitching/Rick Rack ....................................................35
Tapering/Rick Rack
.............................................................
35
Application Stretch Overlook..........................................36
Application Smocking Stitch
Seaming Smocking Stitch
...........................................
..............................................
36
36
Elastic Thread Shirring .....................................................36
Application Overlook Stitch ............................................37
Seaming Overiock Stitch
.................................................
Hemstitching Effect............................................................37
Topstitching Overlock Application Ultra Stretch
.......................................................
.................................................
38
Seaming Ultra Stretch.......................................................39
FUN STITCHES DECORATIVE
Duck Swiss Cross Leaf Butterfly
FEATURES AND PARTS
....................................
40
Parts Description.................................................................41
Accessories............................................................................42
Twin Needle Sewing Effects
Decorative Tucks or Designs
...........................................
........................................
43
43
Pin Tucks ...............................................................................44
Free Arm Sewing.................................................................44
Cording and Zipper Foot.................................................45
Quilting Guide......................................................................45
All purpose Straight Stitch Buttonhole-Zipper
Foots........................................................................................46
Changing the Foot Additional Special Accessories
CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
.............................................................
......................................
Cleaning Hook Assembly ................................................48
Cleaning Feed Dogs...........................................................48
Changing Light Bulb
..........................................................
Oiling (General) ...............................................................^- 49
Minor Problems and Solutions...............................50/51
OO
34
37
39
46 47
49
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