SINGER W710 User Manual

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OPERATORS IN

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[. FEATURES AND PARTS

Principle Parts................................................................................................................4—5

II. ACCESSORIES.................................................................................................................. 6

Contents of Accessory Set..................................................................................................6

III. YOUR SEWING MACHINE AND CASE..........................................................................7-8

Portable Case..................................................................................................................... 7

Setting the Extension Flaps for Sewing on Flat Sewing Surface

Setting Flaps for Free-Arm Sewing.................................................................................... 7

Electrical Connections.........................................................................................................8

Sewing Light...................................................................................................................... 8

IV. PREPARING THE MACHINE TO SEW...................................................................... 9-11

Winding the Bobbin.

Lower Threading.............................................................................................................. 10

Threading the Bobbin Case..................................................................................... 10

Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle................................................................................. 10

Upper Threading............................................................................................................ 11

V. CHOOSING THE RIGHT NEEDLE..............................................................................12-14

Types of Needles................................................................................................... 12—13

Needie-Thread-Fabric Chart................................................................................... . 12—13

Changing the Needle...................................................................................................... 14

Changing the Needle Plate.............................................................................................. 14

VI. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SEWING MACHINE.....................................................15-21

Adjusting the Stitch................................................................................................... 15—17

Stitch Length Dial...................................................................................................... 15

Reverse Lever....................................................................................................... 15

Stitch VA/idth Dial.................................................................................................... 15

Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width

Pattern Selector Dial......................................................................................... 16—17

Pattern Selector Release Button........................................................................16—17

Pattern indicator Window

One Step Buttonhole Control Dial............................................................................. 18

Stitch Density Control................................................................................................ 18

Needle Position..................................................................................................... 19

Adjusting for the Fabric.................................................................................................... 19

Feed Dog Control...................................................................................................... 19

Pressure Control , ................................................................................................. 19

Tension........................................................................................................................... 20

Adjusting the Thread Tensions................................................................................ 20

The Proper Presser Foot

Changing the Foot................................................................................................... 21

The AH Purpose Foot................................................................................................21

The Straight Stitch Foot

The Buttonhole Foot................................................................................................ 21

The Embroidery Foot............................................................................................. 21

The Cording and Zipper Foot....................................................................................21

VII. HOW TO SEW............................................................................................................22-23

Pinning......................................................................................................................... 22

Placement of Fabric/Starting a Seam..............................................................................22

Guiding the Fabric......................................................................................................... . 22

Etched Seam Guide............................................................................................... 22

Cloth Guide.......................................................................................................... 22

Presser Foot as a Guide.......................................................................................... 22

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........................................................................................... 21

16—17

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Holding the Fabric...................................................................................................... 23

Turning Corners..........................................................................................................23

Curved Seams........................................................................................................... 23

Sewing Across Heavy Seams.................................................................................... 23

Ending Seam/Removai of Fabric................................................................................23

Vm. APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STITCH

Seams

Basting/Topstitching. . . ¿T4T . 24

Darning........................................................................................................................ - ■ 24

Elastic Thread Shirring......................................................................................................24

IX. APPLICATIONS OF THE ZIGZAG STITCH.........................................................25-29

Overcasting................................................................................................................... 25

Seaming Knits...................................................................................................................25

Sewing on Buttons

Satin Stitching. ................................................................................................................ 26

Tapering/Creative Embroidery......................................................................................... 26

Freehand Monogramming................................................................................................27

Applique.................................................................................-

Gathering Over a Cord.................................................................................................... 28

Lace Applications........................................................................................................... 29

Flutter Hems. .................................................................................................................. 29

X. BUTTONHOLES.....................................................................

Preparation ................................................................................................................... 30

Built-in One Step Buttonholer......................................................................................... 31

Turn-Around Buttonholes............................................................................................... 32

Corded Buttonholes....................................................................................................... 33

Stretch Buttonholes

XI. APPLICATIONS OF THE BLIND HEM STITCH

Hemming..................................................................................................................... 35

Decorative Effects........................................................................................................... 36

Topstitch Effects............................................................................................................... 36

Decorative Stitch Combinations..................................................................................... 36

XII. APPLICATIONS OF THE STRETCH BLIND HEM

Hemming..........................................................................................................................37

Edging.......................................................................................................................... 37

Eyelash Buttonholes....................................................................................................... 37

XIII. APPLICATIONS OF THE MULTIPLE STITCH ZIGZAG

Overcasting.................................................................................................................... 38

Patching........................................................................................................................ 38

Mending a Tear or Instant Darning................................................................................. 38

Elastic Application........................................................................................................ 39

Understitching Facings............................................................................................ ..39

Decorative Effects.......................................................................................................... 39

XIV. APPLICATIONS OF THE SCALLOP STITCH...........................................................40

Hemming. ........................................................................................................................40

Decorative Effects............................................................................................................40

XV. APPLICATIONS OF THE REVERSE BLIND HEM STITCH

Shell Tuck ........................................................................................................................40

XVI. APPLICATIONS OF THE INTERLOCK

Shell Tuck........................................................................................................................41

........................................................................................................................... ‘

...

...................................................................................................... 25

Forming a Thread Shank.......................................................................................... 26

Manual Embroidery Designs................................................................................... 27

........................................................... -............................................34

...................

Lingerie Seam..................................................................................................................41

Inserting Lace.............................................................................................................. 41

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30-34

35-36

38-39

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XVI!.

XVII!. XIX. XX. XXI.

XXM.

XXIII. XXIV.

XXV.

XXVI. XXVII.

XXVII!.

XXIX.

XXX. XXXI.

APPLICATIONS OF THE CHECKER STITCH

AND THE DOMINO STITCH........................................................................................... 42

Decorative Effects........................................................................................................... 42

Corded Decorative Effects............................................................................................. 42

APPLICATIONS OF THE REVERSE STITCH PATTERNS

Decorative Effects .......................................................................................................... 43

APPLICATIONS OF THE CROWN STITCH ....................................................................44

Decorative Effects.......................................................................................................... .44

APPLICATIONS OF THE CROSS STITCH.................................................................... 44

Decorative Effects. ,

APPLICATIONS OF THE OVERLOOK STITCH....................................................... 45-47

Seams........................................................................................................................... 45

Nylon Tricot Seams...........................................................................................................46

Applying Elastic.................................................................................................................46

Ladder Stitch................................................................................................................... 46

Hemstitching................................................................................................................... 47

Topstitching...................................................................................................................... 47

APPLICATIONS OF THE STITCH AND OVERCAST......................................................48

Seams........................................................................................................................... 48

Applying Ribbing............................................................................................................. 48

APPLICATIONS OF THE FAGOTING STITCH................................................................48

Decorative Effects.............................................................................................................48

APPLICATIONS OF THE SMOCKING STITCH...............................................................49

Seams............................................................................................................................... 49

Elastic Shirring.............................................................................................................. 49

Decorative Effects — Baseball.........................................................................................49

APPLICATIONS OF THE ELASTIC EDGING STITCH

Topstitching.......................................................................................................................50

Edging...............................................................................................................................50

APPLICATIONS OF THE STRETCH OVERLOOK

APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH

Seams...............................................................................................................................51

Topstitching..................................................................................................,. . ..............

APPLICATIONS OF THE RICK-RACK STITCH...............................................................52

Topstitching..................................................................................................................... 52

Tapering............................................................................................................................52

TWIN NEEDLE SEWING......................................................................................... 53-54

Twin Needle Sewing Effects............................................................................................ 53

Pin Tucks.................................................................................................................... 54

Decorative Tucks or Designs............................................................................................54

FREE ARM SEWING....................................................................................................... 55

USE OF ACCESSORIES............................................................................................... 56

Cording and Zipper...........................................................................................................56

...

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51 51

XXXII.

xxxm.

XXXIV.

ADDITIONAL SPECIAL ACCESSORIES........................................................................ 57

Roller Foot........................................................................................................................57

Overcast Foot...................................................................................................................57

Blind Hem Foot................................................................................................................ 57

Roller Hem Foot............................................................................................................ 57

Fringe Foot..................................................................................................................... 57

CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Changing Needle............................................................................................................ 58

Cleaning

Oiling ....

Changing the light bulb.....................................................................................................59

MINOR PROBLEMS AND THEIR SOLUTIONS

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........................................................................................................................ 59

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58-59

60-61

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PRINCIPLE PARTS

Controi Panel Cover ,. ^

covers pattern selector dial, release button, one-step buttonhole control dial, stitch density controi, bobbin winder and bobbin winder guide.

Pattern Selector Dial

selects pattern desired. May be turned in any direction.

Pattern Selector Release Button

is pushed down to release pattern selector dial.

<■" Pattern indicator Window

shows all the stitch patterns available. Relative stitch length setting is color coded for each stitch pattern. Yellow indicator shows the stitch chosen.

Tension Dial

has two discs which regulate the amount of tension on the needle thread.

Take-up Lever

regulates the flow of thread through the needle. It has an open eyelet to simplify threading. The take-up lever should always be in the highest position when beginning or ending sewing.

Face Plate

opens to the left to allow for easy changing of the light bulb.

Check Spring

helps control the flow of thread through the needle.

t-'t-C ,■ t 'i -

releases flaps for flat sewing surface,

holds the presser foot in place,

holds the needle in place.

holds the fabric in place for sewing. Snap-on feet are provided

with the sewing machine. Various interchangeable soles are

included in the accessory box. The front of the presser foot

shank is white to make needle threading easier.

Needle Plate Release Lever

pushes the needle plate up for easy removal.

moves the fabric after each stitch is formed, The diamond points give a gentle feed for delicate fabrics as well as an accurate feed for heavy fabrics.

has guide lines on the left and right for greater sewing accuracy. It snaps off for easy cleaning.

Flat Sewing Surface Brace

holds flaps up for flat sewing airface.

Flat Sewing Surface Flaps

are released and braced whenever a flat sewing surface is desired or access to the bobbin is needed.

controls the amount of pressure on the fabric. The illustrated plate indicates the proper position for various fabrics.

Flap Release Knob

Thumb Screw

Needle Clamp Screw

Presser Foot

Diamond Point Feed Dog

Needle Plate

Pressure Control

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Bobbin Winder Tension Discs

controls the tension on the thread as the bobbin is being wound.

Stitch Density Control regulates the closeness or openness of the buttonhole side and stretch stitches,

One Step Buttonhole Control Dial Selects buttonhole length for automatic one-step buttonholes.

"^Bobbin Winder

□ lui'naL'iitafly'^topswindTnf~ii^en the bobbin is filled,

Hand Wheel controls the up and down movemertt of the needle bar. Always turn it toward you.

Stitch Width Dial allows for precise adjustment of zigzag stitch width as well as

tapering.

Needle Position Dial Is turned for needle position change.

Reverse Lever allows for easy back-tacking to lock thread ends.

Stitch Length Dial

allows for precise adjustment of stitch length from very fine to very long.

Feed Dog Control adjusts the height of the feed dog for special sewing applications.

Presser Foot Lever

controls the raising and lowering of the presser foot. With the lever down, the presser foot holds fabric for ^wing. With the lever up to its first position, the fabric can be turned freely without release of upper thread tension or slack of upper thread, for changing sewing direction or turning the corner. With the lever up to the second position, the upper thread tension is completely released to remove fabric after sewing. An extra lift is also available for placement of heavy, bulky fabrics under the presser foot by holding the lever up to its extreme top position.

Thread Cutter

is located on the back of the presser bar for convenience.

Spool Pins hold all types of spools effectively.

Power Switch turns on both motor and light simultaneously. Allows selection of high and low speed.

Coupling Wheel

releases the movement of the needle bar in order to wind a

bobbin.

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Your new White Rotary sewing nnachine comes equipped with the following set of acces sories to make your sewing easier.

Three Metal Bobbins

The bobbins are made

of metal and hold about 80 yards of thread.

Needles / J 5^' '5

All-purpose needles sizes 11, 14 and 16 are included. Twin needle

is also provided.

Two Felt Washers

Place the felt washers under the spools for best stitching results.

Quilting Guide

helps . make parallel rows of stitching.

7^73 /

Embroidery Foot has a wide groove on

the bottom which allows the foot to pass over dense stitches.

Also has two small tun nels in front to accom modate cord.

Buttonhole Foot

has measuring lines to

insure exact buttonhole length needed.

Button Sewing Foot to hold button in place

for stitching.

Cording and Zipper Foot

for stitching very dose to the edge of a cord or zipper.

Cloth Guide and Screw

aids in sewing straight seams.

All Purpose Foot

Straight Stitch Foot and

for straight sewing on

sheer and very light

weight materials where extra support is needed.

Plate

Screw Drivers

Small one for use on

bobbin tension. Large one for use on thumb screw, needle clamp screw, etc.

Tubed Oiler for use in oiling the

machine. See page 59.

Seam Ripper for cutting open

buttonholes and removing stitches.

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Portable case cover is fixed to the base with two latches at each narrow side of the cover, For opening the case, press the latches out and down to release them from the hooks on the bottom base of the case. For closing, hang the latches to the hooks on the bottom base and press them up.

Unless installing machine into cabinet, it is not necessary to remove the bottom base of the case from machine.

Sewing Machine and Base

SETTING THE EXTENSION FLAPS

FOR SEWING ON FLAT SEWING

SURFACE Turn flap release knob counter-clockwise

to release the front flap and clockwise for the back flap. Pul! the flap brace to out

nnsitinn

SETTING FLAPS FOR FREE-ARM SEWING

Press the flap brace into the lower arm, then, press both flaps down until they click on the stopper latches of flap release

tM tuu*

Note: Free-arm setting of machine is for

simple handling of tubular and hard-to-reach garment areas. (See Page 55,1

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ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

Insert the plug with the indenta tions on the underside into the socket on the right side of the machine. The plug will only go

in one way. Place the foot con trol in such a position that your foot rests comfortably on it.

insert the plug into a wall outlet,

110-120V.

SEWING LIGHT The switch at the right side of

machine is the master switch for

on-off of both the light and the

motor. It is also for selection of speed between fast and slow sewing.

With the switch at "LOW" posi tion, powerful slow speed sew

ing, less than 650 rpm is possible. At "HIGH", sewing speed

reaches upto 950 rpm maximum. The tight is turned on when the switch is set at these positions. At the lower range you may en counter a noticable hum or in crease in motor noise. This is common due to the increased

power or torque needed to

operate your machine. With the switch at "OFF" posi

tion, the electric circuits for both

light and motor are completely

shut off. When machine is not

in use, always turn the switch off

for safety.

Ths S6wiri3 iigHt is !oc3t6d in

face cover directly over the

needle to better illuminate the

stitching area.

With the power switch at the

right side of machine on "HIGH”

or "LOW” speed position, The

light simultaneously turns on, and with the switch on "OFF" the light also turns off.

TTC;.

Tt-

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WINDING THE BOBBIN

Disengage the hand wheel by holding it tightly with your ¡eft hand and turning the coupling wheel toward you with your right hand (Fig, 21), Place the spool on spool pin (A), leaving about one foot of thread free. Lead the thread around the top thread hook of the guide (B) on the left back of the machine and around the bobbin winder tension disc (C). Then thread guide (D) as illustrated (Fig, 22).

Run the end of the thread through a hole

on the riiTi of the bobbin on the spindle,

(E) and push the bobbin winder to the

right. Hold the thread end securely and

run the machine slowly. Bobbin will stop

turning when filled. Cut thread and push bobbin winder to the left. Remove

bobbin from spindle. Tighten the coupl ing wheel by turning it away from you as you hold the hand wheel in place. The needle should now move when you turn the hand wheel.

Note: If the bobbin is winding unevenly,

adjust bobbin winder thread guide (D) up or down as needed.

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LOWER THREADING

• Threading Bobbin Case Turn flap release knob back to release the front flat sewing surface flap. {Fig. 23) Raise the front flap upward fully. Make sure that the take-up lever is in its highest position. Remove the bobbin case, by opening the bobbin case latch and pulling the bobbin case out. (Fig. 24) Hold the bobbin case between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top. Take the bobbin between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.

Draw the thread into the slot of the bobbin case and then under the tension spring into the fork shaped opening of the spring.

(Fig. 25) Then lead the thread

through the thread guide on top

of bobbin case.

• Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle

Hold the threaded bobbin case in your left hand. Raise the bobbin case latch with your finger and hold open. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the rotary hook. Be sure the square opening of the bobbin case is on top. Press the bobbin case into the rotary hook as far as possible until the latch catches on the center post of the rotary hook. Then release the bobbin case latch. Press the bobbin case to be sure the bobbin case is

locked securely, in place. (Fig.

26)

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UPPER THREADING

Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever up just above red mark. The presser foot should be in a raised posi tion. Lead the thread from the spool as illustrated. Draw the thread through the rear thread guide, then forward between the tension discs, down and around the check spring, up and around the take-up lever, down through thread guide on needle clamp. Thread the needle from front to back and leave the thread about

three to four inches long. (Fig.

27) Hold end of upper thread

\v.-

to the left of needle plate and

turn the hand wheel toward you one complete revolution. Pull the loop which has been formed with lower thread through to the upper surface. (Fig. 28) Place both thread ends under the presser foot and draw them to the side leaving both threads about four inches long. (Fig. 29)

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TYPES OF NEEDLES The correct selection of needle to suit the thread and fabric being sewn gives the best stitching results. Fine fabrics should be sewn with fine needles, heavier fabrics with heavier needles.

For best results, sewing machine needles should be replaced when they become even slightly

dull or bent or at the completion of every other garment. ______

_______ is suggested for use with woven fabrics. Needles, style 15 x 1, (European equivalent System 705) are used on the majority of household sewing machines. They range in sizes from 8 to 20 with the lower number indicating the finer needle. The most commonly used sizes are 11 and 14. ________________

• is designed to handle knits as well as woven fabrics. It eliminates skipped stitches and the slight ball will not damage delicate fabrics. This is the needle provided" with your sewing machine and will be used for most of your sewing. A larger ball point may still be necessary for certain knits, such as bathing suit fabric or power net.

____________

- is recommended for use with tricots, jerseys, lingerie and power nets. Unlike sharp, pointed needles, which pierce fibers of knit fabrics, destroying elasticity, the ball point slips between fibers, preventing damage to fabric and skipped stitches. These are available in fine, medium, and heavy ball points,

__________________

is recommended for use with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge cutting point pierces leather more easily than ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in more satisfactory stitching.

NEEDLE, THREAD, FABRIC & STITCHING GUIDE The correct selection of needle and thread to suit the fabric will result in more satisfactory stitching. Fine fabrics should be stitched with fine needles, fine thread and short stitches.

For best results on heavier fabrics, use coarser needles, heavier threads and longer stitches.

Replace the machine needle when it becomes even slightly dull or bent.

KNITS

WOVEN

LEATHER

DECORATIVE STITCHING

LIGHT WEiGHT:Tricot, Power Net g

MEDIUM WEIGHT; Jersey, Double Knit, Power Net

HEAVY WEIGHT: Double Knit, Power Net 11-14

FAKE FURS-VELOURS VERY SHEER;'Lace, Net, Chiffon, Voile

SHEER: Lawn, Taffeta, Blouse Crepe, Organdy

DRESS WEIGHT:Crepe, Woot, Brocade, Velvet MEDIUM: Woo!, Silk, Linen, Pique, Faille,

Velveteen, Terrycioth

HEAVY: Denim, Duck, Sailcloth EXTRA HEAVY: Canvas, Upholstery, Awning VINYLS-FILMS

LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT: Leathers & Suedes HEAVY LEATHER MACHINE EMBROIDERY TOPSTiTCHING METALLIC EMBROIDERY

9-10

14-16

9-11

11 80 Sharp

16 100 Sharp 19 120 Sharp

14 90 14-16 16-18

9-11

16-18

11 80

70 Light Ball

70-80

80-90

90-100 9 70 Sharp 9 70

70-80 Sharp

90-100 Leather (Wedg

100-110

60-80

Light Ball to

Medium Ball

Medium Ball t

Heavy Bail

Ball or Shaft

Sharp

Leather {Wedo

Leather (Wedg

100-110

Page 14

(Fiai Side of Needle} (Round Side of Needle)

Regular Sharp All-purpose Medium Ball Wedge Point Needle Needle Point Needle Needle

10-14

4-5 50

10 4-5 Heavy Duty

16-18 14-16 10

t 4.

12 10

8 3-4

6-8

10 60 70

9 50

7-8

6-7 Heavy Duty

7-8 3-4

Heavy Duty

50 30 50 30

Heavy Duty

Cotton Embroidery Thread Size 50—70 Silk Buttonhole Twist Size D Metallic Thread

50-70 NO

30 YES

50-70 NO A-Silk/Nyton

30 NO A-Silk

30 YES 30 YES

YES NO

NO A-Silk/Nylon

YES YES NO YES NO

A-Si!k/Nylon

A-Silk/Nylon Roller Foot

A-Silk/Nyton

A-Si!k

NO NO NO

Roller Foot

Roller Foot Roller Foot Roller Foot

Page 15

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

• To Change the Needle

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

2. LooSen needle clamp screw to remove the needle. {Fig. 31)

3, Place needle (flat side to the back and

long groove toward you) (Fig. 32) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go, tighten clamp screw.

4, After changing the needle, make one

complete revolution of the hand wheel by hand to be sure the needle is clearing the needle plate.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE PLATE To change the needle plate, release front flap

sewing surface and turn flap up. Push the button on the left side of the bobbin case and the needle plate will automatically raise. (Fig. 34) Lift the needle plate. Replace the needle plate by sliding the clip on the right of the needle plate under the opening and pressing the left side of the needle plate down into place. (Fig. 35, 36) The needle plate is removed for cleaning the

lint which may pile up between the needle plate and the feed dogs. The straight stitch needle plate is used for sewing very fíne or soft materials. The zigzag needle plate can be used for all of the norma! sewing. Care

should be taken to clean lint from the feed dogs to insure smooth operation of the feed mechanism.

Page 16

Lr~

1 U

o I

0 :

ADJUSTING THE STITCH

• Stitch Length Dial This dial {Fig. 37) controls the forward

feeding of the fabric. At 0, the fabric does not feed at all. As the numbers increase so does the length of the stitch. Turn the blue dial so that the desired number is below the

blue indicator.

• Reverse Lever The "R" marked blue lever (Fig. 38} above

and to the right of the stitch length dial will cause the machine to sew in reverse when depressed. This lever may be used at the beginning and end of sewing to lock the

threads. To backstitch, simply push the lever down

and hold for the desired number of stitches. It is advisable to tie the thread ends instead of backstitching on soft sheer fabrics to avoid puckering.

1 o

=J L_

Pattern;

Length: 2%

Width: 0-5

Feed Dog; Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: AM Purpose Needle Position: IV!

Pattern:

Length: 0—5

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot; Allpurpose Needle Position; M

• Stitch Width Dial This dial (Fig. 39) controls the swing of the

needle right and left for various widths of

stitches. At 0, the needle does not swing, therefore, a straight line of sewing results no

matter which stitch is selected. At 1, the needle takes a narrow swing result

ing in a narrow column of stitching. At 5, the needle takes a large swing resulting in a wide column of stitches. (Fig. 40)

• Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width

When the width dial is engaged at one par ticular width (such as 5), the stitch length dial will now control how close those stitches come together. At length 0, the

fabric does not move, resulting in a ball of stitches formed one on top of the other, as is used in button sewing. At about 1/4, the feed pulls the fabric through slowly, result ing in a dense column of stitches called a satin stitch. At length 5, a very long open zigzag results. (Fig. 41)

Page 17

• Pattern Selector Dial, Pattern Selector Release Button and Pattern Indicator Window Pattern Selector Dial selects the stitch pattern to be made according to the picture shown at

the yellow indicator in the pattern selector window. With the pattern selector release button pushed down, the dial can be turned in any direction to the desired stitch. Release the button, and the selected stitch is locked in place.

I ■

The stitches shown are as follows:

Forward Stitch Patterns {shown in blue)

AAjVvV Results in a straight stitch when the width is at zero and a zigzag when the

width is engaged. Set the dial at this position for buttonholes.

A A Blind Hem, stitches forward then a zigzag bite to the left for use in hemming, topstitching, and other applications. See Pages 35—36. Width 0 will give a straight stitch, ail other widths will produce the blind hem stitch.

Stretch Blind Hem, takes two small zigzag stitches then a larger zigzag to the left for blind hemming soft, stretchable knits. When used on a very short length, an excellent edging stitch is produced. See Page 37, A straight stitch is obtained at width 0, All other widths produce the stretch blind hem stitch.

/\/\ Multiple Stitch Zigzag, takes three stitches from side to side for use in overcasting, applying elastics, and mending as shown on Pages 38—39, Width 0, results in a straight stitch, width 5 is the best choice for use of the multiple stitch zigzag.

/' Scallops, perfectly shaped half circles, are formed to the left for decorative pin tucks and edging. Width 0 results in a straight stitch. Width 5 produces the widest scallop. See Page 40,

~\f^f Reverse Blind Hem is similar to the regular blind hem (2) except that the

zigzag bite is toward the right and the straight stitch is to the left, for easier shell tucking. Straight stitch is produced at 0 width, the reverse blind hem at all other widths. See

Page 40.

_AlAA. Interlock, one straight stitch is formed then a zigzag bite to the right for

seaming lightweight jersey and tricot as on Page 41. Width 0 results in a straight stitch,

ail other widths produce an interlock.

Checker Stitch takes small zigzag stitches in left, middle and right positions for decorative effects as on Page 42. Width 0 will give a straight stitch alt other widths produce the checker stitch.

Domino Stitch takes zigzag stitch in the left and right positions for decorative effects as on Page 42. Straight stitches are produced at 0 width, while width 5

results in a domino stitch.

Page 18

4^'

V,.

V >

Decorative Reverse Stitch Patterns {shown in brown)

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

Reverse Action Stretch Stitches (shown in green)

16. ' The Crown Stitch forms a crown shaped pattern for decorative effects on

17. The Cross Stitch produces a hand embroidered replica of the cross stitch for

18. Overlock, takes a stitch to the left, then backwards, and then one stitch right

19.

20. ' This Decorative Stitch can be used for fagotting and borders on household

21. 3 ; ' Smocking Stitch is a honeycomb type pattern useful in seaming gauze and

22. Elastic Edging Stitch takes one stitch to left then forward, then a rick-rack

23. _ _ ' _ Stretch Overlock takes a stitch to the left and right then two straight stretch

24. l! e"":\ Rick-rack takes stitches forward and backward to form a triple reinforced

Note: For Decorative Reverse Stitch Patterns shown in brown and Reverse Action Stretch

__.__

Heart Stitch produces even shaped heart designs with the straight edge to the left for trimming collars and cuffs of little girls dresses as shown on Page 43. Width 3 produces a small heart design with the widest heart shape at width 5.

Tuiip Stitch produces a straight stitch at left and a tuiip design toward the right for border designs on guest towels and children wear. The widest tulip design is produced at width 5,

1..,.. Swan Stitch results in swan shaped patterns to the right with a straight stitch to the ieft for decorative effects on towels and children clothes. Width 5 produces the largest swan design.

^ 21 Fish Stitch forms a fish pattern at the right with the straight edge to the

left for decorative effects on towels and children wear at a width more than-3. The

widest fish pattern is formed at width 5. See Page 43;

Leaf Stitch forms alternating leaf designs for decorating household linens

and garments. The largest leaf design is produced at width 5.

”^2. Greek Key Design is a traditional fashion pattern for decorative borders and

hems of household linens and garments. Width 5 produces the widest pattern. See Page

43.

table-clothes and napkins. See Page 44, Width 5 produces the widest pattern and width 0 produces the straight stretch stitch.

highlighting drapes and household linens. See Page 44. The straight stretch stitch is formed at width 0. AM other widths produce the cross stitch.

to iform a straight seam and overcast all in one operation. This is excellent on both knits and wovens for finished % inch seams on width 5, and for the straight stretch stitch at width 0. See Pages 45—47,

____

The Stitch and Overcast for a straight stitch on the left and a stitch diagonally to the right for stitching and overcasting Va inch seams on woven and knit fabrics. See Page 48. Width 5 is best for seaming and overcasting in one step while width 0 is used for straight stretch stitching.

linens at width 5. Width 0 produces the straight stretch stitch. See Page48. sweater type fabrics as well as decorative effects. See Page 49. Width 0 results in a

straight stretch stitch while other widths produce the smocking stitch.

stitch, tor decorative uses. At width 0 the straight stretch stitch is produced and all

other widths results in the elastic edging stitch. See Page 50.

stitches for seaming softer, bulkier stretchy knits. Use at width 5 for completed 14 inch seams and width 0 for the straight stretch stitch. See Page 51.

zigzag for decorative uses. Width 0 produces the straight stretch stitch, all other widths result in the rick-rack stitch. See page 52.

Stitches shown in green, always set the stitch length dial at 5 at the brown and green dots.

Page 19

• One-Step Buttonhole Control Dial This dial (Fig. 43j is used for automatic,

one step buttonholes. The length may be automatically set by selecting a number or point on the dial between 1 and 5.

Normally, Number 1 produces a button

hole of about Vi inch in length on stiff cotton, while Number 5 results in a V/i inch buttonhole. Size will vary on different types of material due to stretching of the fabric. Once the number or position has been selected, the button hole size is produced automatically.

Each buttonhole can be made the same

size without any measurement on the fabric. For normal sewing this dial ts set at OFF, Further details are explained on Page 31.

— SIZE —

• Stitch Density Control This control is mainly used for fine tuning

the stitch density of the right side of the buttonhole and the shape of decorative reverse stitch patterns. A clockwise turn of the knob increases the openness of the right side of the buttonhole.

Conversely, a counter clockwise turn

makes the right side of the buttonhole

closer together and makes the reverse stitch portions of decorative reverse stitch

patterns longer. Reverse stretch stitch patterns may be a altered as to closeness or openness of the stitch by turning the dial counter clockwise for a more open pattern and clockwise for a closer stitch pattern. However, most sewing will be

done in the neutral position of the stitch density control. (Fig, 44)

Page 20

Pattern:

Length: 2-5

Width: 0-5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position:

Pattern

Length: 2—5

Width; 0—5

Feed Dog:

Pressure; Normal

Foot; All Purpose

Needle Position: M

• Needle Position Dial This dial (Fig. 45) is used for changing needle posi

tion. Three different needle positions, L-left, M-middle

and R-right can be selected. Also, those intermediate positions between left and middle and between middle and right can be selected with the dial at the middle between L — M, and IVl — R,

With the dial at L, M and R, the straight stitch line

is formed at left, middle and right respectively. The etched guide lines on the needle plate are measured from the needle in the middle position. Never change the needle position while the needle is in the fabric because it will bend or break the needle.

Set the needle position at the left (Li when using

the one-step buttonhole.

ADJUSTING FOR THE FABRIC

• Feed Dog Control

This dial (Fig. 46) will raise and lower the feed

dog as indicated. Since the feed dog moves the fabric through the machine, this dial allows the

]

feed to be regulated for various types of sewing,

UP -- for the greatest height of the feed dog

and the best grip on the fabric. This is the position used for most sewing,

DOWN — in this position, the feed dog is com

pletely below the needle plate surface and therefore does not move the fabric 3t 3!!.

Down position is used for sewing on but

tons, darning, and free hand embroidery.

♦ Pressure Control

This control (Fig. 47) regulates how heavily the presser foot rests upon the fabric. To completely release the pressure for freehand work, push the pr6ssur8 r0!s3S6 button backwsrd until ths upp6r plate pops up. To set half pressure for heavy bulky fabrics, push the upper plate halfway down as indicated on the picture panel inside the face cover. Push the upper plate all the way down for regular sewing. Light weight fabrics need more pressure for better hold against the feed, whereas heavier, bulkier fabrics require less pressure to eliminate pushing of the top’layer of the fabric.

Pattern:

Length; 2—5 Width: 0-5

Feed Dog: Up Pressure:

Foot; Allpurpose

Needle Position: M

Page 21

TENSION 48

The top tension (Fig. 48) consists of discs between which the upper thread passes. The numbered tension dial regulates how tightly the thread is being held. When

necessary, adjust the top tension dial in relation to the red line, turning to a lower number to loosen and to a higher number

Iji

ii.

1.h

___

..........

^ @

i ■

. 'w'

to tighten the upper thread tension. The top tension is engaged only when the presser foot is down for sewing. Normal top tension is usually about 5.

The bobbin thread tension is controlled

by a small screw on the side of the bobbin case. (Fig. 49) This screw may be turned with the small screw driver to the right

to tighten and to the left to loosen the

bobbin tension.

• Adjusting the Thread Tensions

The tensions may have to be adjusted for

Balanced tension

certain fabrics. . u;.

■ :c: :i Use a new needle the correct size for the thread and fabric being sewn. (See chart page 12)

It is best to test the tension on a scrap of the fabric you are using for construction. Always use a double thickness and always sew on the bias when testing tensions.

The tensions are correct when the upper

thread and lower thread interlock be

tween the two layers of fabric with the

loops not showing on top or bottom. (Fig. 50—A)

Adjust as follows:

1. If the seam is puckered both top and bobbin tensions are too tight. Loosen both tensions slightly.

2. If top thread lays on the fabric with bottom thread looping over it, the top

tension is too tight,(Fig, 50—B)Loosen the top tension slightly.

3. If the bottom thread lays on the fabric

with the upper thread looping over it, top tension is too loose.(Fig. 50—C)

Tighten top tension slightly.

(B)

(C)

Top tension too tight

Top tension too loose

Page 22

THE PROPER PRESSER FOOT

• Changing the Foot Pui! the presser foot shank iever toward you to remove the foot.

(Fig. 51 — Step 1) To attach place the desired foot under the shank and lower the presser bar.

(Step 2) Foot will be locked automatically. (Step 3)

• The All Purpose Foot •F‘77'/ This foot (Fig. 52} is flat on the

bottom and has a wide hole to accommodate wide stitches. This

foot should be used for all

normal sewing.

• The Straight Stitch Foot

This foot (Fig. 53) is fiat on'the

bottom and has only a small hole

to accommodate only straight stitching. It may be used on sheer or soft fabrics for more control when the all purpose foot allows the fabric to be

pulled with the needle.

• The Buttonhole Foot ifR/ S This foot (Fig. 54) has a frame

which holds the fabric taut

enough to produce a good buttonhole. The markings on

the side allow exact buttonhole

length to be made.

• The Embroidery Foot

This foot (Fig, 55) has a wide groove carved out on the bot tom, This groove allows the foot to pass over dense stitches such as the satin stitch without catching on the stitch. It is transparent to make the stitch more visible. It has two small grooves in the front to make cording easier. Do not use this foot for normal sewing of light weight fabrics. Since it is groov ed it will not hold the fabric taut enough to produce a good

straight stitch.

• Cording and Zipper Foot

This foot (Fig. 56) is very narrow, with needle opening cuts at its

right and left sides to sew in

zippers and insert cording.

Page 23

Pinning may be used as a time saver instead of hand basting. Place your pins at right angles to the edge of the fabric with the pin head at the raw edge. It is possible to sew over pins, but for best results it is recommended that the pins be removed as you approach the presser foot. Sewing over pins can result in damaged needles.

PLACEMENT OF FABRIC/STARTING A SEAM

Before placing fabric under the presser foot,

make sure that the take-up lever is at its

highest position. Place your fabric so that its raw edge is even with the back edge of the presser foot.

When "placing a heavy, bulky fabric under the

foot push up on the presser foot lever for extra lift while you are positioning the fabric. Place the thread ends, which are 3—4 inches long, under the presser foot and either to the left or

to the right. Be sure that both thread ends are under the presser foot. Always lower presser foot before sewing. {Fig, 57)

Push the reverse lever down so that the machine sews a few stitches backwards to the edge of the fabric to backtack, then release the lever allowing the machine to continue forward.

GUIDING THE FABRIC

• Etched Seam Guide The etched seam guides on the needle plate are

graduated in 1/8 inch divisions measured from the middle needle position, (Fig. 58) In order to use the etched guides effectively, let the edge of the fabric follow the line selected for the seam. Therefore, for a 5/8 inch seam, place the raw edge of the fabric on the line marked "5/8". In order to sew a straight line, let your eye follow the etched lines, not the needle.

• Cloth Guide

This guide may be placed on the machine for

extra help in keeping seams straight. It will

allow you to guide seams from 1/4 inch to

1-1/2 inch in width, so that it is useful for

seams of unusual widths. (Fig. 59)

• Presser Foot as a Guide Straight Stitch Foot — for a 1/4 inch seam, guide the fabric along the right side of the

foot. (Fig. 60)

All Purpose Foot — for a 1/8 inch seam, guide the fabric along the right side of the

needle hole. (Fig. 61)

Jill

il,

silg'

J II °

Page 24

• Holding the Fabric For most fabrics, it is not necessary to hold the

fabric in both front and back. Merely guide the fabric with one hand from the front.

For the fine delicate fabrics, such as chiffon,

georgette, and tricot, the best results will be attained by holding the fabric in front and back of the needle without pulling on it.

• Turning Corners

To pivot at a corner, (Fig, 62) leave the needle

in the fabric while on the upswing so that the

stitch is almost completed, thus preventing the

possibility of skipped stitches in the corner.

Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric. Then,

lower the presser foot and continue sewing.

• Curved Seams On a curved seam (Fig. 63} use a slightly shorter

stitch length than you are using for the rest of the seams. For example, if length 2 is being used for the seams, a 1-1/2 stitch length would be preferred for curves. A smaller stitch length will add strength and elasticity to the seam.

When guiding the fabric, keep your fabric edge

on the etched seam guide line directly across from the needle rather than on the forward part of the line. The seam guide may be used on an angle as shown.

• Sewing Across Heavy Seams When approaching a heavy seam, (Fig. 64) hold

the fabric upwards on an angle so that the heavy seam falls under the upward curve of the foot.

This will help feed the heavy seam through the

machine.

• Ending Seam/Removal of Fabric Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then press down

the reverse lever and backstitch for a few stitches to reinforce the end of the seam.

Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever is in

its highest position so that the stitch is complet

ed and the threads will pull freely. Lift the

presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing the threads to the left and back,keeping them under the foot so as not to bend the needle. Cut the threads with the thread cutter on the back of the presser bar. Leave the thread ends three to four inches long.

Page 25

SEAMS

The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heav

ier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam.

Pattern

Length: 2-4

Width: 0

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

BASTING/TOPSTITCHING

Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting. Basting stitches also may be used when gat.hering in fullness. Topstitching can be done very effectively

with the long straight stitch. For a bolder

stitch, two threads of the same type can be threaded through one needle (size 14 or 16). A heavier thread such as buttonhole twist

may be used for topstitching, but be sure to

use a larger needle (size 16 or 18). (Fig, 65) Left needle position may be used for more

support of fabric. DARNING

Worn spots or small holes can be darned very

easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is option al depending on the fabric. (Fig. 66) A fine thread is recommended so that the fabric and thread will blend together invisibly. Trim the ragged edges from the area to be darned. Hold the threads to start, then

move the fabric slowly back and forth while

running the machine very fast to fill the area. More professional results will be attained by moving the fabric in a figure

eight pattern while sewing. After filling in the area lengthwise, reweave with crosswise stitches in the same manner.

Pattern

Length: 5 Width: 0 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Straight Stitch

or All Purpose

Needle PositionrM or L

Pattern

Length: 0

Width: 0

Feed Dog: Down

Pressure: Darn

Foot: Norse or All

Purpose

Needle Position: IVl

ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

Wind elastic thread onto bobbin, (Fig. 67) as shown, letting the thread pass through your fingers. The thread should be wound smoothly without stretching. Place bobbin

in case as usual, being sure that the elastic is drawn through the tension. Use regular thread on the top of the machine. Do a trial

run on the chosen fabric to test length of stitch. Lay a piece of paper under the fabric to keep it from gathering up as you sew. This will enable you to sew many parallel

rows of stitching without difficulty. After

wards tear out the paper and the fabric will be gathered. (Fig. 68)

Pattern Length: 3—5

Width: 0

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position; M

Page 26

OVERCASTIWG

Pattern: Length: 2—4 Width: 5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal

Foot; Embroidery the fabric. (Fig, 69) Needle Position: M

Place the edge of the material underneath the opening of the sewing foot and guide raw edge along the center groove of the foot, allowing stitch to form half on and half off

The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser choice for most fabrics. See page 38.

Pattern:

Length: 2

Width: 1

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

Pattern: Length; 0

Width; 2-5

Feed Dog; Down

Pressure: Normal

Foot: Button Foot Needle Position: L

SEAMING KNITS The narrow zigzag can be used in seams of

firm knits for added strength. After sewing, open seam and press fiat. Tiny zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the seam will give when stretched. (Fig. 70)

SEWING ON BUTTONS ^f/7 Zigzag stitching is a very easy and conve^

nient method of sewing on buttons without a shank. (Fig. 71)

Place the button so its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the button sewing foot. Take a stitch in the hole.

Haise tne neeaie ana move zigzag wiotn aiai

to the right until the needle comes down

exactly over the right hole in the button.

Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for securing a button in place. Stop with the needle in the left hole. To lock the threads, set the stitch width at 0, and take a few stitches in the left hand hole.

Page 27

• Forming a Thread Shank Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should

have a thread shank to make them stand away from the fabric. (Fig, 72) To form a thread shank, sew over a pin or rounded

toothpick which can be inserted directly

into the button sewing foot.

After stitching the button to the fabric,

remove work from under the presser foot leaving threads about six inches from fabric. Remove pin or toothpick. Puli the threads

to back of button and form a shank between

button and fabric by winding threads tightly around the attaching stitches. Pull threads to back of the fabric and then tie thread ends seburely. (Fig. 72)

SATIN STITCHING

This is useful for decoration such as taper

ing, manual designed embroidery, mono-

gramming, and applique. (Fig. 73)

The satin stitch, which is a very close zigzag

stitch, is obtained by setting the stitch

length as near to "0" as possible with

out stopping the feeding action. The setting

will vary for different fabrics. It may be desirable to loosen the upper tension slightly to cause the threads to lock underneath, in

order to make the top surface look especial

ly smooth. For lightweight fabrics, place

paper underneath the fabric while sewing for best results.

TAPERING/CREATIVE EIVlBROtDERY Tapering is done by gradually increasing and

decreasing the stitch width while sewing.

(Fig. 74) By this method, tapered mono grams and other interesting designs can be created. (Fig. 75) For tapered monograms

run the machine fast while turning the width

dial slowly from narrow to wide and back.

Pattern;

Length: Vi—14

Width; I—5

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position; M

Pattern: (VA

Length: Vi—14 Width: 0-5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal

Foot: Embroidery Needle Position; M, 75

Lor R

First, learn this stroke by letting the fabric guide straight. Then, learn to pivot the fabric as you are tapering by holding the

fabric at one point. Various strokes can be

combined to form letters and designs. Varie gated thread can give attractive results.

Page 28

Pattern:

Length: 'A—A Width: 0-5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: M, LorR

• Manual Embroidery Designs Different designs can be made by turning the

stitch width dial between 0 and 5. By run

ning the machine at a constant speed and

turning the diai in a definite rhythm, various

designs can be created. (Fig. 76)

Pattern:

Length: 0

Width: 1—5

Feed Dog: Down

Pressure: Darn

Foot: Embroidery or None

Needle Position: M, L or R

FREEHAND MONOGRAMMING For giving garments and linens a personaliz

ed touch, first transfer the design to the right side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is recommended especially for soft fabrics and toweling. {Fig. 77)

In order to monogram, you must move the fabric slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by moving the paper under a stationary pen. Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag falls close together like a satin stitch, but be careful that the stitches do not pile up. When guid

ing from side to side, move fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy area.

Practice by forming loops. Once this is accomplished any letter is easy.

Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven

interfacing under the fabric may make guiding the fabric easier. The paper or interfacing may be torn or cut away at the completion of the monogram. When mono gramming towels, cellophane placed on the top will help cover loops and make the monogram smooth. Pull or cut away remaining cellophane when finished.

Page 29

applique

Applying decorative shapes of fabric scraps to household articles and clothing is a very interesting way of trimming an otherwise plain

article. First, trace the design on fabric to be appliqued, then pin or baste it securely in place on gar ment, With a small straight stitch or narrow zigzag, sew around the transferred design, (Fig. 78)

Aftar

■f aKr

away, sew around the applique with a satin stitch. For a smooth curve,

stop frequently at the inside edge

of the curve to pivot the fabric

slightly. Corners look much better

when the point is stitched by pivot ing rather than just turned.

As with all decorative stitches, paper may be used to give more body to the fabric when stitching and can be torn away when the

applique is completed. (Fig. 79)

GATHERING OVER A CORD

Ordinary gathering with a basting

stitch often breaks while pulling

in fullness. A small zigzag across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering fullness Into fabrics. (Fig. 80) Once the gathers have been stitched in place, the cord can be pulled out in order to eliminate bulk. (Fig. 81)

Step 1

Pattern;

Length: 1

Width: 0-1

Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal

Foot; All Purpose Needle Position; M

80 81

Step 2 Pattern:

Length; %—’/3

Width; 2-4

Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Ail Purpose

NIoorMa Pricl+ir^n* IV/l

or Embroidery

Pattern;

Length: 2

Width: 3

Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal

Foot: Embroidery

Needle Position; L

Page 30

Pattern:

Length: 1

Width: 1-2

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position; M

LACE APPLICATIONS Attaching laces or trims adds a

special touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or baste laces in place easing or mitering corners where necessary,

A straight edged lace or braid has a convenient line to follow when sew

ing. (Fig. 82) When using a scallop ed edged lace follow the design of the lace for an almost invisible application. {Fig. 83)

Note: Try Multiple Stitch Zigzag,

Overlook, Elastic Edge Stitch, Smocking stitch. Stretch Overlock or Rick-

Rack for different effects.

Pattern: fZZi:

Length: %

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot; Embroidery Needle Position; M

FLUTTER HEM

An unusual way of hemming or finishing edges of tricot or soft

knits is by a flutter edge. Hemming

in this manner is just like over casting an edge, but the fabric is stretched in back and in front of the needle as you sew. For best

results, pull the fabric equally,

making sure the needle goes over the edge. (Fig. 84) When you stop to reposition your hands, keep the

needle in the fabric. (Fig. 85)

Page 31

Various fabrics require various methods of sewing 86 buttonholes. Four different methods are given below, with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which method is best for your fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished appearance.

PREPARATION For the best results, a good quality mercerized

cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be. An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to give body, 87 to strengthen,and to help them withstand wear. To establish the correct length of the buttonhole,

add the diameter of the button (A), plus the

thickness of the button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the bartacks. {Fig. 86) The length may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch, tailors chalk, or transparent tape, as shown. (Fig. 87) Another way to make sure that ail buttonholes will be the same size is to cut a piece of cardboard as wide as the buttonhole foot and long enough to make the distance between the toe of the white slide and the cardboard the size buttonhole needed. This method works for buttonholes up to 1-1/8 inches long. Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8

inch beyond the center line of the garment. (Fig.

88) Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the cutting space of the buttonhole is directly on the center line. (Fig. 89) Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of the garment fabric before making any buttonholes on your garment. On your test sample, duplicate the thickness found in the garment and be sure to include the interfacing. The test sample should help determine the length needed for the button to pass through easily, and

the stitch length for the particular fabric. As with the satin stitch, the stitches should be close together, but not so close that they pile up. Be 89

sure to use the buttonhole foot.

A+B+1/8 inch

1/8 inch

Center line of Garment

Page 32

BUILT IN ONE STEP BUTTONHOLES

With this buttonholer, you can produce as many buttonholes as desired which will be exactly

the same size simply by selecting the proper number or position. Automatically the button hole will be produced. This buttonholer is used most often on light and medium weight

fabrics. The buttonhole lengths are relative to the numbers on the buttonhole control dial. The lengths of the buttonholes are as follows; NUMBER; 12345

LENGTH; 1" VA"

Most medium weight, stable fabrics will produce buttonholes of this length when the cor responding number is chosen. In the case of slippery or sheer materials a smaller buttonhole

may result, which will require a slightly bigger number. It is best to test the buttonhole on a scrap of fabric before making buttonholes on the garment. At this time you can also balance the buttonhole density and adjust as necessary with the Stitch Density Control Dial for the right side, and stitch length dial for left side.

1. Turn the Buttonhole Control Dial clockwise from the OFF position to the ON position. At the ON position press the dial down and turn through the DOWN position. Release the dial and turn to the desired buttonhole length position. If the dial is turned past the desired

buttonhole length number, turn to the OFF position and then turn the dial one more complete turn to dear the mechanism and repeat as above for buttonhole.

2. Lower the needle into the fabric at the

bartack marking line. Lower the presser foot and start to sew. First, the bartack will be made, then the right side of the buttonhole

will be sewn in reverse. The second bartack will be made automatically when the desired

length is completed. Finally the left side of the buttonhole will be made. Stop the machine when the left side of the buttonhole reaches the first bartack,

3. To lock the stitch, make sure the needle is out of the fabric. Turn the dial to the OFF posi

tion and take a few stitches.

4. To make succeeding buttonholes, proceed as

above for an many buttonholes as necessary,

always turning to OFF and repeating steps 1

thru 3.

5. Score the buttonhole with the back edge of

the seam ripper several times. To prevent cutting through the bartack, insert a straight pin through the bartack. Cut the buttonhole open with the seam ripper,

Length: Buttonhole

Width: 1

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot: Buttonhole or

Embroidery

Needle Position: L

NOTE: Stitch Width Control should always be set at "V' while making buttonholes. For a narrower cutting space, you may turn your zigzag control knob close to 2’A for desired cutting space. To turn the buttonhole mechanism off, when the length has been set and no buttonholes were made, turn the dial one complete turn without pressing the dial

down to complete the cycle and dear

mechanism.

Page 33

TURN-AROUMD BUTTONHOLES

it is possible to make small and dainty

buttonholes if you desire or repair damaged buttonholes. This entails a slight shifting of the cloth but with some practice, good buttonholes can be achieved.

1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the cloth as shown in figure 93.

2. Set the needle position to the left and your stitch length dial near "1/4" or

the density you desire.

3. Choose the desired width of your buttonhole.

Example; if you want a buttonhole with 3 width of #3 setting on the stitch width dial, divide this setting in half, or

r/i.

4. Start at your marked position, sew down on the left side of buttonhole to the other end of marking. Leave the needle in the cloth at the right side of stitches and rotate your cloth. Lift the

presser foot and slide the bottom of the

foot back to the front.

5. Lower the foot and raise the needle.

Reset your stitch width dial to bartack, in this case the #3 setting, set your

feed to DOWN, sew several stitches.

6. Raise the needle, raise feed to UP, reset the zigzag width to the initial setting, in this case #V/2 and sew the other side of buttonhole to your mark, then

repeat your bartack (5).

7. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches at 0 width. Cut buttonhole as indi cated previously.

When using this method over a buttonhole

which has already been slit or damaged,

be sure to hold the buttonhole open and allow the needle to go off the edge of the fabric. Step 4 is all that may be needed to

repair damaged buttonholes.

_.L

step i

Pattern: Length: Buttonhole

Width: 2%-5-2y2-5-0

Feed dog: Up—Down—Up—Down Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery or Buttonhole Needle Position: L

step ¿.

Step H

Page 34

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

Cording gives a reinforced raised button hole, It is excellent for use on bulky,

woven fabric, or knits in which the stitch

ing often gets buried and makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded buttonhole will help keep the fabric from stretching out of shape.

Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or buttonhole twist to use for the cording. Proceed as for either built-in buttonhole (page -31) or the turnaround buttonhole (page 32), having the cord under the presser foot in such a way that the zigzag

stitch covers the cord. When pivoting the

buttonhole '(Fig. 94), also swing the cord around to follow under the second side.

At the completion of the buttonhole snip the excess cord close to the bartack on woven fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the cords to the wrong side by

using a darning needle or needle threader, and knot the cord ends before clipping.

Ilf.. .

Built-in Buttonholer;

Pattern: AiY) Length: Buttonhole

Width: 1

FppH Hnn • [ in

■

------------

—'-S’ “ r-

Pressure; Nortnal

Foot: Buttonhole Needle Position: L

Turn-around Buttonhole:

Pattern: C^.

Length; Buttonhole

Width: 2%-~5-~2%-5-0

Feed dog: Up—Down—Up—Down Pressure; Normal Foot: Buttonhole or Embroidery Needle Position; L

,..A..,(I^

Page 35

STRETCH BUTTONHOLES 95 Step 1

This buttonhoie is used on knit fabrics when it is desirable to omit interfacing or cording. This buttonhole will stretch and

return to shape unlike an ordinary zigzag buttonhole. The XXXX pattern of the

stitch makes the buttonholes nearly

invisible when using matching thread. It is excellent to use on jerseys, double knits, and sweater fabrics. (Fig. 95)

1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the cloth as shown in Fig, 95,

2. Select the overlook stitch.

3. Set the needle to the left and the stitch

length dial to 5.

4. The width should be set at 2Vz.

5. Start at the marked position, sew down

the left side of the buttonhole to the Step 3 other end of the marking. Leave the needle in the cloth at the right side of

the stitches and rotate your cloth.

Lift the presser foot and slide the

bottom of the foot back.

6. Lower the presser foot and raise the

needle. Reset your stitch width to make a bartack at width 5. Set your feed dog to DOWN, sew a few stitches.

7. Raise the needle, raise the feed dog to

UP, reset the width to 2V2 and sew the second side of the buttonhole, to the end of the buttonhole mark, reset the width to 5, the feed dog to DOWN and sew a few stitches for the second bartack.

8. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches

at 0 width. Cut the buttonhole as Steps

indicated previously.

Step 2

Step 4

Step 6

Pattern:

Width: 2%-5-2y=-5-0 Feed Dog: Up—Down—Up—Down Pressure: Normal Foot; Buttonhole or Embroidery Needle Position; L

Page 36

Step 1

HEMMING

The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible on garments, drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with straight or slightly curved hems. With a little practice it will be a very quick and easy hem application and the hem will never need repairing.

Procedure; (1) Prepare raw edge of hem in desired

manner, such as overcast, 1/4 inch stitched under, pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Fig. 96—Step 1)

(2) Fold hem up desired length. Baste or

pin 1/2 inch from upper edge. Press in place. (Fig. 96—Step 2)

(3) Fold hem back toward right side of

fabric leaving about 1/4 inch extend ed. (Fig. 96—Step 3)

(4) Adjust your stitch width and needle

position (Fig. 97} so that the zigzag bite of the stitch just slightly catches the fold of the fabric. The straight stitches should be formed on the single thickness of fabric, and the zigzag bite should catch just barely

into the fold of the fabric at the left.

(5) When stitching is completed, (Fig. 98)

remove fabric from machine and turn

to right side. Press completed hem.

When hemming an A-line skirt, place a machine basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the seams. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling on basting thread. Press with steam, then apply hem tape. Baste or pin hem 1/2 inch from taped edge, then continue into step 3.

Pattern: AA Length; 2—2%

Width: 2-4

Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normai Foot: Ail Purpose

Needle Position; R or M

Page 37

DECORATIVE EFFECTS By sewing two adjacent rows of blind hem stitching

on lace or ribbon attractive decorations are created.

(Fig. 99) The stitch may be pivoted when the zigzag bite swings to the left and the points matched in the second row.

Another variation alternates the zigzag bites in the center of the straight stitched segment. The stitch may also be pivoted after two straight stitches to form a snowflake-like pattern.

Pattern: jvA

Length: 2—3 Width; 5 Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Ail Purpose

Needle Position; M

r I

I r

I (

f i

><:

I i

i I

I .

! • >

i ■

rH^-l

<j>

—i

TOPSTITCH EFFECTS A new kind of topstitching effect can be produced by

couching a strand or two of pearl cotton, embroidery

floss, or yarn with the blind hem stitch. Simply guide the cord through the left groove of the embroidery foot so that the blind hem stitch sews over the cord and not through it. The straight stitches of the blind

hem stitch will bury themselves along the right side

of the cord and the small zigzag bite will swing over the cord. The sewing thread should match as closely as possible to blend into the fabric. (Fig. 100)

Pattern; j\J\, Length; 2—3

Width; 2

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot; Embroidery

Needle Position: L

DECORATIVE STITCH COMBINATIONS Combining rows of decorative stitch patterns is an

easy, inexpensive way to create your own braids and trims for garments and household articles. Blending or contrasting colors of thread may be used to com pliment the color of the fabric. Illustrations will give some of the attractive stitch combinations. (Fig. 101)

100

101

Pattern: As desired

Length: r/ tr

Width: IT ir

Feed Dog; Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot; Embroidery Needle Position; M

DOOC

Page 38

102

Pattern; Length; 2

Width: 2-3

Feed Dog; Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

or R

HEMIVIING

The stretch blind hem stitch gives a stretchy, durable hem finish to knit fabrics. The two tiny zigzag stitches enable the hem to stretch with the fabric.

It may also prevent woven fabrics from raveling. Proceed as for the regular blind

hem stitch on page35. (Fig. 102)

103

104

Pattern

Length: 14

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot; Embroidery Needle Position; W!

Pattern Length: % Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: Embroidery Needle Position; W!

EDGING

The stretch blind hem stitch can be used as an edging, like the blanket stitch done by hand. By using a fairly short stitch length, the stitches lie very close together.

It can be used for overcasting and finish ing the edges of tablecloths, napkins and ruffles. The edge may be turned up about ’/2 inch and then overcast with the stretch blind hem. Cord or pearl cotton may be used to give a raised effect to the stitches.

(Fig. 103) Simply place 2—4 strands of pearl cotton or embroidery floss under

the foot and stitch over it

EYELASH BUTTONHOLES

A unique way of reinforcing buttonholes on loosely woven fabrics or buttonholes

in which the stitches have been accidently

cut, is to overcast them with a short stretch blind hem stitch (Fig. 104) Over cast each Side of the buttonhole so the far right stitch falls into the opening of the buttonhole and the small zigzag stitches cover the previous buttonhole side. On completion of one side of the buttonhole, pivot the fabric with the needle at the far right in the opening of the buttonhole at the bartack. Sew up the other side in the same manner.

Page 39

OVERCASTING

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent choice for overcasting. (Fig. 105) It keeps the

fabric fiat and prevents raveling. For most fabrics, this stitch is better than the zigzag

stitch for overcasting. The stitch should fall right at the raw edge

of the fabric. Feed the fabric under the presser foot by guiding the raw edge along the right hand side of the hole in the presser foot.

Pattern ;,\V. Length;

Width; 5

Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position; M,

L or R

106

PATCHING The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent

stitch for patching. It is stronger than the zigzag and the tiny stitches bury into the fabric to make an almost invisible stitch when using matching thread.

Place the patch over the right side of the worn or damaged area. Sew around the patch with the multiple stitch zigzag letting the last stitch to the right overcast the edge of the patch. (Fig, 106) When turning corners

leave the needle in the fabric at the corner. (Fig. 107) Usually this will be the furthest stitch to the right or left. In this way, the corners are doubly stitched and very strong. When the patch is stitched in place, trim away the excess worn fabric on the wrong side of the patch. (Fig. 108)

Note: Try Smocking Stitch for knits.

MENDING A TEAR OR INSTANT DARNING

The multiple stitch zigzag provides a strong and easy repair for torn garments. It gives an almost invisible

nd, especially when a

fine darning thread is used. To mend a tear, hold the torn edges close

together and stitch down the middle. (Fig.

109) If the tear is guided under the slot in the middle of the presser foot, stitching will be equal on both sides. If necessary, sew again on either side of the first row of stitch

ing making sure the needle catches the stitch in the center. With very worn or frayed

fabric, place a piece of lightweight interfac

ing or cotton batiste under the tear for reinforcement.

Note: Try Smocking Stitch for knits.

Pattern; ,\\\

Length:

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M,

L or R

108

Pattern: Length: Near O—’A

Width; 5

Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal Foot; All Purpose

Needle Position: M,

L or R

109

Page 40

ELASTIC APPLICATION

Applying elastic to lingerie or soft knit fabrics is easy when using the multiple stitch zigzag. Cut the elastic 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. Overlap the raw ends to form a circle and stitch with a tiny zigzag to form a box as shown. Fold the elastic into quarters or eighths and mark with pins. Do the same with the waistline of the garment. (Fig. 110) Place the elastic about 14 inch from the top edge of the fabric, matching the pins. Place under the presser foot and begin stitching. As you stitch, place the forefinger of each hand on the fabric at either side of the presser foot. (Fig. 111) Puli the fabric out exactly at the point where the

needle is sewing over the elastic and the fabric. This will ease your fabric and elastic together

as you sew. The amount of ease is dependent on how much you ease the fabric, in this way you never need to stretch the elastic, which can be damaged and stretched out of shape. Trim off excess fabric above elastic near the stitches.

Note: Try Overlook stitch or Smocking stitch for girdles.

Pattern: Length: %— 1 Vi Width: 5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position; M

UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent

choice for understitching and eliminating bulk in facing seam allowances, (Fig, 112)

After attaching the facing to the garment,

trim and clip the seam allowance as usual. Press the seam allowances toward the facing

and use the multiple stitch zigzag close to

the seam, stitching through the facing and

the seam allowances. Using a matching thread, the stitch will blend into the fabric and prevent excess bulk. This is much more successful than a straight stitch for under

stitching. it really helps to keep the facings

from rolling.

Note: Try Smocking Stitch for knits.

Pattern: AV-,

DECORATIVE EFFECTS As with the blind hem stitch, the multiple

stitch zigzag can be used for many decora tive combinations, (Fig. 113) If the stitch is pivoted when the needle reaches the far left or right of its swing, and the points are carefully matched, a tracery diamond shape

results.

On the other hand, if rows of the multiple stitch zigzag are sewn with the points falling directly under each other, a wavy pattern is produced.

Flowers may also be produced. Start in center; pivot at points shown. Add four more petals if desired.

113

< >

\ /

X/'

/ \

< >

\ /

/ \

< >

\ /

X \

X X X X X

^ / / / /

<<<< <

XX \ \ \

>>>>>

X X X X X

<<<^<

\ X \ \\

>>>>>

X X XX X

<<<<<

\ X X \ \

>»>>

X' XX X X

X XX/ X

Pattern: ,“vV, Length: 1—2’/= Width: 3—5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal

Foot; All Purpose Needle Position; M

/ \

Page 41

HEMMING Pattern;/' 1-J4

Hemming soft knits and tricot can be made w^^tm 5 very easy and decorativeiy with the scallop Feed Dog: Up stitch. Simply turn up the hem the desired Foot; AH Purpose amount and press. Then from the right side of the garment sew with the scallop stitch

Needle Position: M

about 14" from the edge. Additional rows can be sewn above the initial row if desired. Trim the excess fabric away carefully. (Fig. 114)

DECORATIVE EFFECTS As with the blind hem stitch, the scallop can

be used for many decorative combinations. (Fig, 115) If the stitch is pivoted when the

needle reaches the far right of its swing, and

the points are carefully matched, a tracery

oval shape results.

On the other hand, if rows of the scallop stitch are sewn with the points falling directly under each other, a wavy pattern is produced.

Flowers may also be produced. Start in center; pivot at points shown. Add four more petals if desired.

SHELL TUCK

The reverse blind hem stitch gives a very

effective and easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, pillowcases, and decorative finishes. (Fig. 116} This works well on knits

or on the bias of soft, woven fabrics. A

single folded bias tape may be tucked in this

manner, and then applied under a fold for a

decorative hem on pillowcases or applied

with the facings at the neckline or armhole for a decorative finish.

Set the upper tension dial to a little bit tighter

position than normal. Fold under the edge where the shell tuck is to be created. Place the bulk of the fabric to the left of the needle with the folded edge to the right. Place the fabric so that the folded edge will be guiding

into the center cut of the foot. The straight stitches will form on the fabric, and the zig zag bite will swing to the right off of the folded edge. (Fig. 116) The shell edge is created as the needle swings back onto the fabric. The size of the "shell" can be varied by changing the stitch length.

Pattern:

Length; 1-2%

Width; 3-5

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

c;j>c

Pattern: W Length: 2-3

Width; 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal Foot; Alf Purpose Needle Position;

M or R

115

116

'• '

\ \ \

v>>

\ z' "s

/ \

t f

Page 42

117

119

LINGERIE SEAM

For a very fine, deiicate seam in nylon tricot or jersey, the interlock is used. Lingerie or tricot seams should only be about 1/8 inch in finished width.

If your pattern has wide seams, trim them down to 1/4 inch while cutting out the pattern. Guide the raw edges of the fabric

into the center slot of the presser foot. On the right, the needle will stitch over the edge resulting in a finished 1/8 inch. (Fig. 1171

Pattern: AAA

Length; 1 Width; 5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Ail Purpose

Needle Position; IVl, L or R

INSERTING LACE A very fine lace insertion can be made with

the interlock. As in applying lace with the

zigzag stitch, follow the straight line or the

design of the lace. See page 29. Sew so that

the straight stitch of the interlock is on the fabric and the small zigzag catches into the

lace. (Fig. 118)

Pattern; JJJi

Length: 1

Width; 2

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot; All Purpose Needle Position: M, L or R

SHELL TUCK The Interlock stitch can produce a very fine

delicate shell tuck, especially nice on soft knits. It is not necessary to work with the bulk of the fabric to the right. Simply fold under the edge where the shell tuck is to be created. .Place the fabric, with the bulk to the left, so that the folded edge will be

guided into the center cut of the foot.

The single straight stitch will form on the fabric, and the zigzag will swing to the right of the folded edge. The shell edge is created as the needle swings back into the fabric.

(Fig. 119)

Pat ter n: A M

Length; 2

Width: 5

Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position; M, L or R

Page 43

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

120

Decorative borders can be made with the checker and domino stitches. The checker stitch may be matched like the blind hem and multiple stitch zigzag stitches. See Page 36 and 39. This results in a geometric type design. The domino stitch may be used along the edge of the

border to complete the geometric effect. These stitches may be sewn on ribbon and then applied to table clothes, towels, or curtains for a dynamic decorative effect.

\ t i £.KJ i

Pattern;

Length; Ya

V...

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: Embroidery Needle Position; M

CORDED DECORATIVE EFFECTS The domino and checker stitches may be

corded for an even prettier and stronger

finished edge effect. Simply place four

strand of pearl cotton, embroidery floss, or yarn under the presser foot. The

grooves of the embroidery foot will help

guide the cord evenly. Sew with either

the checker or domino stitch for a strong,

three color decorative effect. (Fig. 121)

Pattern:"Sa Length: %

Width; 5

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot; Embroidery

Needle Position; M

121

Page 44

122

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

The reverse stitch patterns produce heart,

tulip, swan, fish, leaf, and Greek key designs for use on household linens and children clothes. These reverse stitch patterns can be used to sew in hems as the scallop stitch. See Page 40. (Fig, 122)

The reverse stitch patterns can also be

used for topstitching bindings and ribbons for decorative effect. This is done in thesame manner that lace is applied with

thp 7in7iin ctitnh Ppno OQ -Thp

straight stitched edge of the reverse stitch patterns on the left should be sewn on the left edge of the binding or ribbon. This

decorative effect can be used on towels

and placemats for a pleasant appearance. (Fig. 123)

The reverse stitch patterns can also be corded for stronger decorative edges on

placemats and tablecloths. Simply place four strands of pearl cotton, embroidery floss or yarn under the presser foot as the domino and checker stitches are cord ed on Page 42. The transparent foot will

help guide the cord evenly while sewing the reverse stitch patterns. (Fig, 124)

125

^ /'n

NJ Sj ■"

Thp raxtarQd c^itrh rvattornc r-an ho cotA/ri

1 , .w, V-W1 I »-'V.

with two threads through one needle for a more effective decorative stitch. Simply thread two sewing threads through the upper threading system. A larger needle should be used to accommodate the two threads. Use this decorative technique for enhancing tablecloths, placemats, napkins, and curtains, (Fig, 125)

Pattern: Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot; Embroidery Needle Position: M

Note: You can alter the shape of every

reverse stitch pattern and adjust as necessary with the Stitch Density Control, particularly, for

the Heart Shape pattern.

Page 45

XÌX . AP PLIC ATIO NS OF THF CRO WN STI TCH

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

The crown stitch may be used in many of the same ways which the other reverse stitch patterns were used. See Page 43, The crown stitch may also be matched so that the design is much larger and dominant for decorating pillows or curtains. The embroidery foot is trans parent to provide a better view. (Fig. 126)

Pattern: wxA

vviaiti; D

Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position; M

XX. Api CJCA TIO NS O F T HE C RO SS S TITC H

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

The cross stitch is a pretty imitation of the hand embroidery stitch which can be used to enhance placemats, napkins, and curtains. Transparent tape can be used as a guideline for straight decorative stitched lines. (Fig. 127)

Pattern:

126

127

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot; Embroidery Needle Position; M

Page 46

128

129

■ Pattern:

Width; 4—5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal Foot: Alt Purpose Needle Position: M, L or R

5 3 7

84 8

SEAMS

This stitch gives a finished 1/4 inch seam

in one step. For knits, it gives strength and elasticity to the seams and prevents the curling of the fabric that often occurs

with 5/8 inch opened seams. It is most

applicable to soft, thin knits such as nylon or acetate knits, but may be used on other fabrics as well. Always make test seams with this stitch.

For woven fabric, the overlook stitch gives strength and prevents raveling, it can be used on woven goods to replace flat felled or French seams.

For patterns with 1 /4 inch seams;

{Fig. 128) Place the raw edge of the fabric under the presser foot so that as the needle swings, to the right, it comes down at the raw edge. This will result in an enclo^d seam allowance.

For patterns with 5/8 inch seams; (Fig.

129) The seam allowances may be trimm

ed to Vi inch either before or after sewing.

If trimming before sewing, proceed as above. Otherwise, sew the seam with the raw edge of the fabric on the etched guide

line "Vi". {Any time you use the full width of a particular stitch, you should

readjust the raw edge of the fabric 1/8

inch to the left.) Afterward, trim the excess fabric near the stitching. This method is actually easier than the over edge method for fabrics that curl.

i> i ... lii-

Page 47

NYLON TRICOT SEAMS

The overlook stitch is excellent for use on fine fabrics such as nylon tricot. Lingerie

or tricot seams should only be about 1/8

inch finished width .

If your pattern has wide seams, trim them

down to Va inch while cutting out the

pattern. Guide the raw edges of the fabric into the center of the presser foot. On the

.right, the needle will stitch over the edge

resulting in a finished rolled seam of 1/8 inch, if a pucker results when stitching, a looser tension is needed.

Stitching in this manner can also be used to form a rolled hem on the raw edge of a scarf.

APPLYING ELASTIC

The overlook stitch gives a very finished appearance to elastic application. (Fig.

130) See instructions for elastic applica tion on Page 39, but use this stitch instead of the multiple stitch zigzag.

Pattern:

Width; 4—5

Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot; All Purpose

Needle Position; M, L or R

130

LADDER STITCH

This stitch gives a very effective means of sewing fake furs and soft leathers to

produce a seam with no bulk. It is also very effective in a contrasting color as a decorative accent for special seams, such as raglan sleeves or for applying an edge

trim. (Fig. 131 )

Place the bulk of your fabric to the right of the needle and the raw edge so that the needle will swing off the fabric at the left. (Fig. 132) The left side of the stitch will be formed off of the fabric to provide a very strong seam with only a tiny seam

allowance. For better results loosen up per tension. Pull the seam open from the

right side until the "rungs" of the ladder

appear. The "rungs" become a decorative

accent if a contrasting thread is used. On

fake fur, the nap can be pulled up with a

needle to hide the stitches and create an invisible seam.

Pattern:'

Width: 5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M, L or R

Page 48

133

134

1 inch 1 inch

•c

Cut out

Pattern:

Width; 3-5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: Ali Purpose

Needle Position: M

HEMSTITCHING

By using a very large needle and a fine thread an openwork effect can be attained which is beautiful for sewing the hems

into tablecloths, napkins, placemats, handkerchiefs, etc. Use a large needle, size 18 or 20, and a fine cotton thread. Tighten the upper tension slightly, until the stitch looks better on the underside than on top, (You will be sewing with your fabric face side down.)

Turn up 1 inch then turn up 1 inch again

135

to form a hem of a double thickness of fabric. The bulk in corners can be elimi

nated by trimming away the excess, as shown, (Fig. 133} after having folded the fabric on all sides. Stitch from the wrong side, so that the straight stitch forms on the single layer and the zigzag bites on the double layer. (Fig. 134) Stitch all the way to the edge of the fabric along all sides. (Fig. 135)

The overlook stitch can be used to topstitch non-raveling fabrics such as felt or

leather into place for appliques or

pockets. Stitch so that the straight part of the

stitch is formed over the edge of the

leather, and only the zigzag part holds it

in nlprp iC'in

.. . ,y. f sJU;

Pattern;

Width: 3-5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position: M, L or R

Page 49

SEAMS

On most knits, a % inch finished seam, such as stitch and overcast or the overlock stitch, is more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam allowance. These stitches can create a neater, more professional finish, eliminate bulky seams, prevent curling, permit the garment to "give" under stress, and at the same time they cut down on the amount of work

involved in making a garment. If ever in doubt as to which of the two stitches to use, test both on the particular fabric in question and choose according to their performance.

The stitch and overcast stitch is excellent for stretch fabrics such as sweater knits, bathing suit knits, and cotton knits. It has the greatest strength and elasticity of all.

For patterns with ’'A inch seam allowances;

Feed the fabric such that the needle goes over the raw edge of the fabric when it swings to the right. (Fig. 137)

For patterns with 5/8 inch seam allowances:

Feed the raw edge of the fabric along the etched guide line ''yi", then trim away the excess fabric close to the stitching. (Fig, 138)

Pattern:

____

137

138

6« a

i 0

IX]

Width; 5 Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot; Embroidery Needle Position; M

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

An open work effect can be made with fagott-

ing. Slit the fabric where fagotting is desired.

Overcast the edges of the fabric and turn

back about Va inch. Press. Sew so that the stitches to the far left and the far right catch

into the folded edges alternately and the stitches in the center catch into the space

between the folded edges. (Fig. 139)

Pattern;

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot; Embroidery

Needle Position: M

139

Page 50

140

141

This stitch is very versatile and can be corded

or used as a topstitch as other reverse stitch patterns.

SEAMS The smocking stitch can be used to seam fine

gauze type fabrics or bulky sweater knits, this results in less bulk for a finished % inch seam. Follow the directions for overlook seam on Page45. (Fig. 140)

Pattern: ' Width: 5

F6sd Do9- Up Pressure: Normal

Foot: Embroidery

Needle Position: M

ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

Cuffs and bodices of little girls dresses can be shirred easily with the smocking stitch. Place the right side of the garment down on the bed of the machine. Place two strands of elastic thread under the foot. Stretch the elastic thread while sewing with the smocking stitch to gather cuffs or bodice for a feminine effect. (Fig. 141)

Pattern:

143

144

Width: 5

Feed Dog; Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: M

DECORATIVE EFFECTS - BASEBALL

1. Decide on the radius of the baseball to determine the placement of the cello phane tape and thumbtack.

2. Pierce a piece of tape with a thumbtack so the sticky side of tape, and flat side

of tack will be against the bed of the

machine,

3. Place tape with tack the desired dis tance from the needle as determined in step 1. (Fig. 142)

4. On fabric, mark two perpendicular lines

to mark the center of the baseball. (Fig.

143)

5. Pierce center of baseball with tack.

6. Begin sewing and complete perfect

circle creating the outline of baseball,

7. This is great way to outline any circular shape. Try some of the other patterns,

and make your own coasters and other

decorative uses. (Fig. 144)

Page 51

This stitch is very effective for overcasting, edgestitching, etc. on knits and very stretchy fabrics, also, for decoration,

TOPSTITCHING

A decorative topstitch can be produced with the elastic edging stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garments for a dramat

ic effect. Topstitch a braid or decorative

inset with the elastic edging to add an addi tional decorative flair, (Fig. 145)

Pattern:

Width; 5

Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery

Needle Position: L or R

EDGING

As with the stretch blind hem, the elastic edging stitch can be used for a decorative

edge on place mats, napkins and tablecloths.

Proceed as you would with the stretch blind

hem stitch, see page 37, but use the elastic

edging stitch instead. (Fig. 146)

Pattern:

145

146

Width; 3~5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot: Embroidery

Needle Position: M, L or R

Page 52

147

On fabrics that are bulkier or heavier, the stretch overlock is a better choice than the overlock. In all methods proceed as you would for the overlook, see page 45, except feed the fabric with the bulk to the right. The stitch is less dense and will prevent soft stretchy knits from rippling. {Fig, 147)

Pattern:7.

Width; 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot; Ai! Purpose Needle Positlor.: M, L or R

SEAMS

148

Pattern:

Width; 0 Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position; M

This stitch may be used on knits and woven fabrics (Fig. 148) , in areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for curved seams such as arm holes and crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in bending and stretching, this stitch may be used for seaming throughout the garment.

TOPSTITCHIMG

Because this stitch is heavier than an ordinary straight stitch, it is ideal for topstitching, particularly on knits. {Fig,

i /in'!

1 “l-Oi

Pattern:

Width: 0

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot; Ail Purpose

Needle Position: M

Page 53

TOPS! ITCHING

A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect, Topstitch braid or a decorative inset to add an additional creative flair. (Fig. 150)

Pattern:.

Width: 4-5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot; All Purpose

Needle Position: M, L or R

150

TAPERING

The rick-rack stitch may be tapered to form

creative stems and petals of flowers, embroidered pictures and wall hangings. As

in tapering the zigzag, See Page 26, slowly

turn the stitch width dial from 0 to 5 and

back to 0. A group of these tapered rick-rack

stitch will from a bouquet-like effect. (Fig.

151)

Pattern;

Width: 0-5-0

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: L, M or R

151

Page 54

152

154

TWIN NEEDLE SEWING EFFECTS To use a twin needle in the machine,

remove the single needle, and insert the twin needle into clamp with the flat side

to the back. (Fig. 152) Threading of the

machine when using a twin needle is the

same as normal with these exceptions:

(Page 11)

1. Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on each spool pin.

2. Hold both threads together as you follow through thread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the tension. Pass on thread through

the left disc and one thread through the right disc. (Fig. 153)

3. Then pass threads through arm thread

guide. (Fig. 154}

When using a twin needle, set the stitch width dial at 2 or less to prevent needle breakage with a wide stitch. Twin needle settings are marked in white and red on the stitch width dial — Do not use red

marked numbers when using twin needle. Be sure to use the Middle Needle Position.

Page 55

PIM TUCKS

Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that matches the fabric, produce subtle decora tion on plain fabrics. Using the twin needle, sew straight lines on the fabric guiding the edge of the presser foot along each successive tuck to make parallel rows. Soft fabrics will be pulled to form a soft crease. To achieve a tuck on a fabric,

increase the lower tension slightly. Heavier fabrics will produce two lines of straight stitching. Attractive pin tucks are made

with the multiple stitch zigzag as well as

with a straight stitch. {Fig. 155)

Hint: Transparent tape makes straight

lines easy to sew. Just sew with the presser foot guiding along the edge of the tape. When sewing is completed pee! off tape. (Fig.

155}

Pattern; Length: 2—4 Width; 0 Feed Dog; High Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery or

AH Purpose

Needle Position: M

155

DECORATIVE TUCKS OR DESIGNS

Any stitch can be used with the twin

needle for decorative effects. {Fig. 156)

Most attractive are the multiple stitch

zigzag and blind hem stitch for fancy

effects. The satin stitch or tapered zigzag

designs in two colors are effective for

creative trims.

Pattern: Any Length: 14—5 Width: 0-2

Feed Dog; Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose or

Embroidery

Needie Position: M

156

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Page 56

For sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas, use your machine as a free-arm. Stitching button holes or sewing buttons on a cuff or neckband; topstitching a sleeve; edge finishes on sleeves, pantiegs and waistlines; darning and patching knees, elbows; and other areas of wear on children's clothing become as easy as sewing a common seam when you have the free-arm at your fingertips. I llustrations show some examples of sewing with the free-arm.

157

Page 57

CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT The cording and zipper foot is used to

sew in zippers and insert cording.

Zipper: ¿./9/*9 Set the needle position at "L" or "R"

as needed to sew the right side or the

left side of zipper respectively, so that the foot sews very close to the zipper teeth. (Fig. 159)

To insert cording:

1. Set the needle position at "R" and make the welting by sandwiching the cord into a bias strip of fabric. Stitch close to cord, (Fig. 160)

2. Set the needle position at "L". Sandwich the welting between two layers of fabric with right sides

together. Stitch a second time. The

needle stitches close to the cord

through all thicknesses. (Fig. 161)

158

161

UUILI li\iU ijUlUC

Parallel straight lines are easy to sew

with the quilting guide. (Fig, 162) To

attach the guide, slide it into the black

clip at the back of the presser foot

shank. Adjust the curved bar to the desired distance from the needle. Sew the first line of stitching as desired, and then for the succeeding rows let the guide follow along the previous line of

stitching. A straight stitch, zigzag, or any other stitch may be used.

Page 58

163

164

ROLLER FOOT

Ideal for use on vinyls, imitation leathers, jerseys, synthetics, velvets and

denim. This foot helps keep both

layers of fabric feeding the same. On

very slippery fabrics, the roller foot

helps prevent skipped stitches. (Fig.

163)

OVERCAST FOOT Zigzag overcasting may tend to roil the

edge of some fabrics causing a bulky edge. The overcast foot helps to produce a flat edge. The bar behind the needle hole holds the threads firmly in a full width zigzag or overiock

stitch to keep the stitches from drawing tightly together, {Fig. 164)

166

167 ¡€£^70

BLIND HEM FOOT

For all those who find machine blind hemming difficult, this foot gives a clear guide for the fold of fabric to follow. The blind hem foot is a fine accessory for those who like the strength and durability of machine hemming. (Fig. 165)

ROLLED HEM FOOT

Recommended for narrow rolled hems on scarves, shirts, linens, and linings. This foot makes a very tedious hand sewing job very easy to do on a sewing

machine. (Fig. 166)

FRINGE-FOOT

Thick chenille type loops can add

interest to appliqued flowers and animals. Used with a satin stitch this foot gives a plush texture to a design.

Also used for hemstitching and tailor

tacking. (Fig. 167)

7 7/6

Page 59

1. CHANGING NEEDLES a. Always use the correct type of needle for

your machine.

Always use the appropriate size needle for the thread and fabric you are using. Always change the needle after every

other garment.

Needles dull easily and when dull, will damage both your fabric and your machine. Many service problems are the result of rough spots on the needle plates and hook.

Always put needle in machine correctly.

It will cause stitches to be skipped if it is inserted incorrectly.

Pulling on fabric while sewing will bend

the needle, which will subsequently damage the needle.

168

2. CLEANING After each garment is completed, a light

cleaning is recommended. Use a lint brush to remove all lint from the open areas in the bed of the machine, especial ly in the grooves of the feed dog. Push the needle plate release button. The needle plate will pop up to remove. The area around the feed dog is one of the most important areas to dean. Lack of maintainance may cause serious damage to your machine,

b. Keep machine covered when not in use to

prevent accumulation of dust and dirt particles.

Page 60

169

170

3. OILING

a. Use a pure oH, one that has no detergents,

!t is best to buy oil manufactured specifi' cally for sewing machine use, Other oils will eventually cause the mechanisms to

lock up.

b. Your machine should be oiled often.

Using a sewing machine oil, piace a single

drop on each oiling point as illustrated, specifically those points marked in red on

your machine, (Fig. 169, 170) Run the machine to allow the oil to penetrate. Your machine cannot be overmlled but

excess oil may drip and stain your garment.

c. Before oiling the machine remove the

following: (1) The needle (2) The presser foot (31 The needle plate. After you have finished oiling the machine replace the bobbin case. The needle plate should then be placed into its normal position, followed by the presser foot and

needle.

171

4. CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB Open the face plate by pulling towards the left.

Turn the light bulb counterclockwise to remove.

Replace the bulb by turning clockwise, (Fig. 171)

A majority of service calls could be avoided by following the above procedures and by first checking to see that the machine is:

1. Threaded properly top and bottom.

2. That the bobbin is wound evenly.

3. That the needle is in the machine correctly.

4. Proper cleaning and oiling.

Loose

Page 61

1. SKIPPED STITCHES Skipped stitches have become a probiem in recent years,

especially with the appearance of knit fabrics and poiyester threads on the market. Skipped stitches normally can be traced to four basic causes:

A. The Needle

(1} The needle is dull or bent. Change it, (2) The needle is placed incorrectly in the needle

clamp. It is either backwards or is not up in the needle clamp all the way.

(3) The wrong type of needle is being used for the

fabric. Use bail point needle on knits and wedge point needles for leathers and vinyls.

(4} The thread' is too thick for the size of needle

being used. Use a larger needle.

B. The Thread

(1) The machine is threaded incorrectly. (2) IVlany brands of polyester thread are too stiff and

coarse thus making stitch formation difficult or impossible. Change brands or use a cotton

thread.

C. The Presser Foot

(1) The foot being used is not holding the fabric taut

enough over the needle plate hole, thus the fabric

is being pulled up and down while stitching. Use

the foot which gives the most control possible for

the particular job being done,

(2) There is not enough pressure on the pres^r bar to

hold the fabric firmiiy. Increase pressure on the pressure control.

D. The Fabric

The fabric has a heavy finish on it which deters stitch formation. Wash the fabric thoroughly before sewing.

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if your machine skips stitches only on certain fabrics, try

all of the above procedures before calling a repairman. Check the needle plate area, if there are scratches and

marks around the needle hole opening, your machine is not being cleaned properly. Always remove the needle plate and dean the feed dogs periodically. Improper and lack of cleaning will cause an accumulation of lint which hampers the feeding mechanism, this in turn will cause the operator to impatiently pull or push the cloth causing

the needle to bend and strike the plate, foot or hook,

causing a slip in the timing mechanism. Continuous striking will cause defects making it necessary to call a serviceman.

SINGER W710 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

PRINCIPLE PARTS

SETTING FLAPS FOR FREE-ARM SEWING

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

LOWER THREADING

• Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle

ADJUSTING FOR THE FABRIC

♦ Pressure Control

• Adjusting the Thread Tensions

Adjust as follows:

PLACEMENT OF FABRIC/STARTING A SEAM

GUIDING THE FABRIC

• Cloth Guide

BASTING/TOPSTITCHING

ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

OVERCASTIWG

SATIN STITCHING

GATHERING OVER A CORD

FLUTTER HEM

EDGING

EYELASH BUTTONHOLES

MENDING A TEAR OR INSTANT DARNING

ELASTIC APPLICATION

UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS

SHELL TUCK

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

DECORATIVE EFFECTS - BASEBALL

TOPSTITCHING

EDGING

SEAMS

TOPSTITCHIMG

TAPERING

DECORATIVE TUCKS OR DESIGNS

To insert cording:

1. CHANGING NEEDLES a. Always use the correct type of needle for

2. CLEANING After each garment is completed, a light

4. CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB Open the face plate by pulling towards the left.

1. SKIPPED STITCHES Skipped stitches have become a probiem in recent years,