Extremely heavy
tarpaulin, sacking.4
canvas, duck, etc.
Heavy upholstery
fabric, ticking.3
denim, leatherette
Medium heavy drapery
fabric, velveteen,
2
suiting, felt, terry, etc.
Medium broadcloth, percale.
gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta.
1to
sheer wool, shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn.
dimity, crepe.
0to
handkerchief linen.
plastic film, etc.
Very sheer chiffon.
batiste, lace, organdy.
00
ninon, net, marquisette, etc.
When doing embroidery work, finer
embroidery thread regardless of the
Machine
StitchesCotton
610
to
8
8
to
10
10
toto
12
12
14
14
16100
(Plastic film)
16100
to
20
results will be obtained with machine
weight of fabric.
8 to 10
Thread
Mercerized
Thread
toHeavy Duty
30
30
toHeavy Duty
40
40
Heavy Duty
60
60
to
50
80
80
to
to
50
50
150
Silk
or
Nylon
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Page 3
SETTING THE NEEDLE
See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar A to its highest point, turn
ing wheel toward you by hand. Then loosen the needle clamp
screw B and the needle clamp C will open. Place needle (flat
side to back; in the needle clamp and push it upward as far
as it will go into the needle clamp hole, fastening the needle
clamp securely with a screw driver.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Disengage the hand wheel (Fig. 4) from the stitching
mechanism by turning the clutch toward you or counterclock
wise. Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins, lead
thread under the handle and through the upper thread guide
on the arm, and down through the tension disc (11, Fig. 5) at
the base of the machine. Run end of thread through a hole in
the bobbin edge and place bobbin on spindle B of winder
4, fitting the notch on bobbin over small pin on spindle. Push
_ 7 _
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Page 4
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71
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bobbin windeT pulley against hand wheel. Hold
thread end loosely and start machine slowly. Bob
bin will be released automatically when it is filled.
Break oH loose thread end used to start the winding.
Turn clutch away from you until sewing mech
anism is again engaged so that needle moves when
you turn the hand wheel.
If the bobbin winds unevenly, adjust bobbin
winding tension disc to the right or left by loosen
ing the screw. When disc is in proper position,
tighten screw.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Reier to Fi,B. 6, 7 «id 8 to youreelf »1th the ptooedute_ Hold the bobbta
— case in your left hand. Let about
two inches of thread hang free from
the bobbin, and insert bobbin into
case so that thread will be rotating
counterclockwise. Guide the thread
end through the slot on the side
of the case and under the tension
spring until it enters the small notch
on the edge of the spring.
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PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE
Open hinged cover plate in front of the needle. (See
15, Fig. 1). Hold the bobbin case latch, (D), Fig. 9,
between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with
at least three inches of thread running from the top of
the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the
bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle body, (C . Be
sure the bobbin case finger, (E), is opposite shuttle
race notch, (A). Press the bobbin case into the shuttle as far as possible until latch
catches on the center post of shuttle. THEN release the bobbin case latch, (D). Press
bobbin case again after latch has been released to make sure the bobbin case is locked
securely in place. Close the cover plate.
Fig. 9
Page 6
HOW TO THREAD THE MACHINE
(Single Needle, Fig. 10)
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Turn hand wheel toward you to raise take-up lever
to highest position.
1. Place a spool oi thread on spool pin A,
2. lead thread through eyelet in arm thread
guide B,
3. pass the thread down and around tension discs
C from right to left
4. into check spring D
5. then tug on thread to pull it around and into
hook E Fig. 11 j
lead up to take-up lever F, threading from right
6.
to left,
down into thread guide G
7.
into needle bar guide H
8.
and through needle I from front to back.
9.
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Page 7
Pull about lour inches of thread through needle. Hold thread end and
wheel toward you. As the needle goes down and comes up again, the bobbin thread
will be drawn up m a loop see tig. ii;. y^rasp oorn
1 '11 i firaso both threads and pass under presser
foot toward back of machine.
THREADING TWIN NEEDLES
(See Fig. 3 for inserting needles)
J
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3
3
3
3
3
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3
Follow above procedure with these exceptions:
Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on both spool
pins. Draw threads through separate eyelets in upper arm thread
guide (B). Pass threads from right to left through front and
back tension discs and into check spring (D , then into hook
(Ej. Now treat both threads as one until you reach the needle
eyes. Pass thread from the spool on the left through left needle
and the thread from the right spool through the right needle.
Extra twin needles may be purchased from your sewing machine
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the shanl'
dealer.
Flat side
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Page 8
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STRAIGHT STITCHING
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For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft material,
it is advisable to use the straight stitch presser foot and
the straight stitch needle plate which are included in
your accesory box. Both have narrow needle slots.
Changing the Foot and Plate.
To change presser
foot (16, Fig. 1) loosen thumb screw 17 and remove
zigzag foot. Replace with hinged straight foot and
Fig. 12 tighten screw securely.
To change needle plate (14, Fig. 1) remove screw and lift off with cover plate 15
attached. Hold needle plate with left hand and cover plate with the right. (Fig. 12)
Press upper corner of cover plate (right side up) down slightly and slip pin from
groove in needle plate. Avoid using too much pressure. When the pin is released the
two plates will separate.
Attach cover plate to straight stitch plate by reversing the above procedure.
Slip pin on lower side of cover plate into groove on needle plate. Insert tongue
into square opening and slide upper pin into position. Put plates on machine and
fasten securely with needle plate screw.
.
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Be sure to set the stitch width at O,
needle will break in striking the foot or plate.
Push the zigzag lever 17, Fig. 13) all the way to the
left so that pointer is over 0 in stitch width window.
Set both locks, 6, as far to the left as possible.
To move locks, pull knobs slightly and slide, then
release.
or the
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial A shown
in Fig. 14. Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 6 is the longest.
Turn the dial to the left to lengthen and to the right to shorten
the stitch.
STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate)
Fig. 13
Figures on dial
Number of
stitches per inch
23
0
No feeding3620
1
129
13
45
6
75
Page 10
SEWING IN REVERSE
When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the begin
ning or end of a seam, press in the reverse button B, Fig. 14, as far
as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the
button is held in.
Fig. 15
Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as
the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To increase
the tension on the upper thread, turn dial Fig. 15 to the right,
or clockwise. To decrease, turn to the left. The higher the number
on the dial the tighter the tension.
Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly. When
necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small screw ¡'Fig. 16 on side of the
bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.
ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS
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When the upper and under tensions are properly
balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both
threads interlocking in fabric. (Fig. 17)
When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread
is pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat
on the fabric. When the under tension is too tight, the
upper thread forms loops over the lower thread lying
flat on the fabric.
ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC
Perfect Stitch
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Upper thread tension too tight
Under thread tension too tight
Fig. 17
_____ __ __ __
A_
General Sewing.
Usually for straight sewing and manual embroidery, the pressure
bar cap or darner release, B, Fig. 18, is at its lowest position and the feed is at its
highest level, with the red triangle on the drop feed knob A, Fig. 19, turned to REG.
Sewing Thin or Light Weight Fabrics.
When lighter pressure is required to
sew satisfactorily on thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway
down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock. A, Fig. 18, and then press cap
15
Page 12
Fiq. 18
Fiq. 19
B down again to halfway spot. Lower the feed slightly by turn
ing the drop feed knob to SILK.
Darning and Monogramming.
In order to move the fabric
freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain kinds of
free-hand embroidery, release the pressure cap B completely
by pressing down on the snap lock. A, Fig. 18. Turn the drop
feed knob to DARN position, which drops the feed well below
the needle plate. To return feed to normal, turn knob to REG.
PREPARING TO SEW
Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do
not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may
deflect the needle and cause it to break.
NEVER run machine without material between presser foot and
and feed. Place material and threads in position under the pres
ser foot and lower the presser foot. Turn the hand wheel toward
you until the needle is at its highest point. You are now ready
16
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Page 13
to begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest
point it is not necessary to touch the hand wheel to start
the machine. You merely press the control. The speed of
the machine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the
amount of pressure exerted on the control.
REMOVING THE WORK
Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up
lever and needle bar are located at the highest position.
Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and
to the left, Figs. 20 and 21, and pass the threads over
the thread cutter. Pull down slightly, holding thread in
both hands, so as not to bend the needle. Leave the ends
of thread under the presser foot.
17
Fig. 20
Fig. 21
Page 14
__
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ZIGZAG STITCHING
Setting the Stitch Width and Locks. Move
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zigzag lever 7, Fig. 22, clear over to right
edge oiits channel. Pull left stop, 6, out
slightly and slide it to the right until the
black pointer on the lower part of indicator,
5, is under the width required. Then move
Pig. 22lever, 7, back to the left until it forces left
lock to snap into its groove. The red pointer on the upper part of the indicator is
then above the number stitch width required.
To set the right stitch width lock, move lever to the left and slide the lock toward
the right to the width required. Move lever back to snap lock into its groove.
When the left and right locks are set at two different widths the zigzag lever can
be moved freely between the two settings.
18
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CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are in place.
The satin stitch, Fig. 23, which is really just a very
short zigzag stitch, and the basis for most embroidery,
is obtained by setting the stitch length as near 0 as
possible without stopping the feeding action. The width
may be set anywhere from just past 0 to the widest, 4, for single needle work. For
twin needles
twin needles, always turn hand wheel manually until you are sure needles clear the
needle hole.
Embroidery Patterns.
With the machine set for a short stitch length, different designs can be made by
swinging the stitch width or zigzag lever back and forth between 0 and 4 or any other
combination of widths. Try setting the locks at 1 and 4, 2 and 4, etc. Set a rhythm
for yourself and then proceed. After a while you will become quite skillful, varying
your designs by the speed of the machine, stitch length and width, and the manipula
tion of the lever. Always run the machine at a uniform speed, whether fast or slow.
the stitch width must be
no wider than No.
19
1V2
setting.
When using
Page 16
SAMPLE EMBROIDERY PATTERNS (Fig. 24)
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The following patterns will be altered by the machine speed. At slow speed the
patterns will be shorter than at moderate or fast speed.
A. Sew a few stitches at #4 width, then quickly move lever back to 0 for a short
period. Count, if necessary, to establish
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a rhythm.
B. Set width locks at II/2 and 4, then move
lever slowly between settings, operat
ing machine rather fast.
C. Set width locks at 1 and 4. Gradually
move lever from 1 to 4, then snap it
back quickly to 1.
D. Set locks at 1 and 4.
Fig- 24
at moderate speed,
you count "1, 2, 3."
and 4 for the same count. Return to 2.% and 1. Repeat.
20
Operate machine
Stitch at 1 while
Then stitch at 2/2
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E. Drop feed, lock stitch width at 4, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left
of stitches. Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. Continue until flower
design is complete. Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4
stitches in center of design.
Twin Needle Work (See Figs. 24 and 25)
Variations of the designs shown in Fig. 24 (with the exception of the daisy) may be
done with twin needles
Always turn the wheel by hand to be sure needles do not strike either side of the
needle plate hole.
A. Set locks at 0 and 1V2. Move lever at even pace from 0 to II/2, and back. Keep
repeating in rhythm.
B. Set stitch length at 2, the stitch width at 1. ,Do a few zigzag stitches, drop feed
for 3 or 4 stitches, then raise feed quickly. By operating the feed knob rh5dhmically, it is not necessary to count stitches to obtain uniformity of pattern.
C. Set width locks at ^ and 1%. Sew a few stitches at 1V2, then quickly move
lever to 1/2. Repeat the back and forth movement while running machine rather
slowly.
when the right stitch lock is set on No.
21
I1/2
width.
Page 18
■ si'Ss
Fig. 25
D. Set locks at 0 and IV2. Gradually move lever from 0 to IV2, then snap it back
quickly to 0. The speed of the machine will govern the length of the triangular
pattern.
E. Set the stitch length at 1, then follow directions for pattern A.
For double rows of straight stitching, lengthen the stitch and set the. stitch width
at 0, with lever as far to the left as it will go. Keep the zigzag foot on the machine.
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Page 19
EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP
It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work
free hand when embroidering or monogramming.
(See Fig. 26).Release the pressure from the foot
by pressing down the snap lock on the automatic
darner. Turn the drop feed knob to "DARN" posi
tion. Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop,
removing the presser foot
presser bar lifter,
hoop slowly with both hands
Set the stitch width at the size you prefer and lower the
Then operate machine at a rather high speed while moving the
Work carefully and be sure to keep lingers out of the
First, mark the begimiing and end of the buttonhole on fabric with a basting line or
tarlors chalk. Make one on scrap fabric (following directions below) to be sure
machine adjustments are correct.
1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved deeply underneath to
.....
23
Page 20
Fig. 28
riirm
prevent piling up of thread. (See Fig. 27.)
2
.
Lock the stitch width at 2 with the left stop, and at 4 with the
right stop. Set the stitch length near 0.
3.
Lower needle carefully into the mark on fabric indicating the
beginning of buttonhole. Stitch to the mark for the end of the
buttonhole, step 1, Fig. 28, stopping machine with needle in
fabric at right side of stitching.
Lift the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot, turn the
fabric end for end.
5. Lower presser foot and turn hand wheel
just enough to raise needle out of fabric.
6. Turn feed knob to DARN and move zig
zag lever to 4. Take five or six stitches to
form bar tack, step 2, Fig. 28.
7. Raise needle out of fabric and return feed
to REG. position. Return stitch width to
2.
8. Stitch second side of buttonhole, step 3.
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9. Make bar tack by repeating 5 and 6 above (step 4).
10. Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches to fasten bar threads and
prevent raveling. Cut the buttonhole opening with the seam ripper, being careful
not to cut the stitching.
If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place tarlatan or paper,
which can be torn away after stitching, under the fabric. Änd it is always wise to
make several buttonholes on scraps of fabric before working on the garment.
For narrower buttonholes, set the left stitch width lock at less than 2, the right lock
at the setting which will produce a bar tack twice as wide as one bank of buttonhole
stitching.
SEWING ON BUTTONS
1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot. (See Figs. 29A, B and C.)
2. Turn drop feed knob to DARN.
3. Move zigzag width lever to 0 position or to the extreme left. Place button so that
its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the presser foot.
25
Page 22
Fig. 29A
Fig. 293
Move the zigzag width lever to the right until needle comes
exactly over the right hole oi the button. Turn the balance
wheel slowly back and forth by hand to be sure needle drops
£j-00^y through both holes of the button. Lock stitch width,
either at right or left.
4. Run the machine at medium speed, making five or six stitches,
stopping with the needle in the left hole.
5. Move the lever to the left or to 0. Finish off with a few stitches.
you wish you may place a rounded toothpick over the button,
between the two holes, and sew button to fabric in regular way.
Remove toothpick and wind thread under button, forming a
shank. Fasten.
If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the same procedure
above lor the two hole button. Now lilt
presser loot slightly and move fabric to
permit stitching the remaining two holes.
Hooks, snaps, etc., are sewn to the fabric
with the same procedure as for sewing
two hole buttons.
Fig. 29C
26
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Page 23
HEMMING WITH THE ZIGZAG STITCH
Heavy or pile fabrics such as tweed, camel s hair,
5
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
felt and velveteen can be hemmed neatly and softly
with a zigzag stitch. Smooth, figured material may be
finished in the same way as the sidewise stitches
will be barely noticeable and the fabric will hang as
Fig. 30
¿eorre^fSlritTot hemming either by stitching seam tape to the right side, or by
folding the fabric under one half inch. Stitch one fourth inch from the edge wit a
fei SIS' Then fold the garment or large part of the fabric back on the
herllold. Let the edge of the hem extend beyond the folded fabric one-guarter inch.
Hold in place with pins set TeVon T'sclap of'the fabric to
will show less on the right side, but thicker fabrics require a ' ,
- — fr
Place material under zigzag presser foot with the quarter-inch extension to the right.
Guide told of tLVonly the left side of the
rohtlhs Ld. The" i*t side of the etitch should be only ou the
quarter-inch extension of the hem.
27
Page 24
Fig. 31
Fig. 32
HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES
NARROW HEMMER. With the needle at its highest
position, replace regular presser foot with narrow
hemmer (Fig. 31). For a plain narrow hem, make a
1/8-inch double fold for about two inches along edge
of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch fold, slip
underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of
hemmer, draw forward to end and fasten with point
of needle. Lower presser bar lifter.
Gently pull ends of thread as you start stitching.
Guide material slightly to right, and it will automa
tically take a double turn through scroll.
LACE TRIMMED HEM. To sew a narrow hem and
attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in the slot
next to needle (Fig. 32). Sew hem as above, guiding
lace under needle and hem into scroll.
LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING. Hold
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lace 1 8-inch from raw edge on right side of fabric.
Insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem 'Fig.
33;. Let hem roll over and sew in lace. Press lace
out flat along edge with hem turned up. ^
It is possible to have a little fullness in lace by
feeding it freely under scroll.
frenchseam. With right sides together, place
Fig. 33
top piece of material 1 H-inch inside edge of lower piece
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FIAT FELLED SEAM. Open out Erenoh seam and insert rolled edge in soroll oi
hemmer. Edgestitch to lay seam flat.
1 a .3 stitch
Q NG GUIDE. This guide for making parallel rows ol stitching is attached by
(Frg. 34,,. Adjust the curved bar to press lightly on the fabric. By letting the guide
- 29
Page 26
ride on the first stitching line, successive rows will
be an equal distance apart. When the bar is attached
so that the curved part is to the right of the needle,
it may also serve as a seam width guide.
SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE. Use the seam
gauge as a guide for straight seams and even rows of
top stitching along edges of fabric. Fasten gauge with
accompanying screw in threaded hole in needle plate
or in bed of machine (Fig. 35). Adjust to seam
width desired.
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CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF
YOUR MACHINE
HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE
Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep
it operating smoothly — how often depends on the
amount of sewing you do. Oil the upper part of the
sewing unit at points indicated by arrows in Fig. 36.
Avoid over-oiling — only a drop is needed at each
point.
30
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Page 27
Fig. 39
Occasionally remove the
top cover by removing screws
and oil moving parts not ac
cessible through oil holes,
Fig. 37.
To oil parts under the bed
of the machine, tip the unit
back on its hinges and apply
a drop of oil at each point
indicated in Fig. 38.
Fig. 37
Fig. 38
To oil moving parts inside the face plate, which only
rarely require oiling, remove plate by taking out the
screws. Oil at spots indicated in Fig. 39.
Use gear lubricant on gears indicated by white arrows
in Figs. 37 and 38. Lubricate only when machine seems
to sew more slowly than usual.
31
Page 28
Fig. 42
HOW TO REPLACE LIGHT BULB
Grasp light bulb button (see 31, Fig. 2; and pull light bracket down
ward. Unscrew bulb and replace with bulb of same size, which is
available from your sewing machine dealer.
HOW TO CHANGE THE BELT
If it should ever become necessary to replace the belt on your ma
chine, the hand wheel must first be loosened and moved out.
To do this, follow these instructions :
1. Remove clutch nut A in center of wheel by taking out the small
screw B near the edge. Fig. 40. Turn nut counterclockwise until
it can be lifted off.
2. Before moving the hand wheel, note the position of the washer,
C, Fig. 41, which fits under the clutch nut. It may fall out when
you are changing the belt.
3. Pull hand wheel away from the machine carefully. Fig. 42. Pull
it just far enough to make the grooved section which holds the
belt accessible.
4. Slide old belt over hand wheel and over pulley on the end of
motor.
-- 32 ^
Page 29
5. Slide new belt into grooved section and over motor pulley.
6. Push hand wheel back against the machine.
7. If washer C has fallen off, replace so that the lips D, Fig. 41, are pointing toward
the clutch nut.
8. Replace nut and tighten screw securely.
After doing this, turn the clutch toward you to disengage the sewing mechanism. If
the needle still moves up and down as you turn the hand wheel, again remove the
clutch nut. Give the washer a half turn and replace the nut.
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE
(See Figs. 43 and 44)
The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes
clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere
with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning
and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows ;
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches
its highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin case (A), Fig. 43.
33
Fig- ^3
Page 30
CHECK UP FOR SMOOTH SEWING
Be sure needle is inserted properly.
Check on correct way to thread machine.
Use correct needle size for thread.
Do not have upper tension too tight.
Lower Thread Breaks
Check correct method of threading bobbin case.
Be sure lower tension is not too tight.
Needle Breaks
rroaT‘the“lodre“" “
Be sure presser foot is firmly attached to bar.
Although your sowing maohino is designed for maximum efficiency should any of
35 -
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Page 31
Skipped Stitches
Do not use a blunt or bent needle.
Insert needle correctly.
Use correct needle size for thread.
Be sure pressure on foot is sufficient when sewing heavy fabrics.
Stitches Loop
Make sure tensions are properly balanced and that machine is threaded correctly.
Machine Binds
Clean thread, dust and lint from hook, shuttle and race.
If condition continues it may be that the machine is gummy with oil. Apply
kerosene to oil holes, run rapidly for a while, and wipe dry. Then lubricate again
with fine sewing machine oil.
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